out again to make room for the end of the rattan to be pushed in, about
three inches below the top of the basket. The other end is inserted in
the same way on the opposite side. This makes the foundation handle.
The end of the weaver is inserted under the third row of weaving to
the left of the spoke and pushed up between the weaving. It is twisted
around the foundation about an inch apart. When the opposite side is
reached, the weaver is pushed in under the third row of weaving on one
side of the handle spoke and brought out on the other side. The weaver
is then laid across the first twist and each of the following ones, to
the other side where it goes under the third row as on the opposite
side. About five or six times across will cover the handle. The weaver
is fastened off by bringing it inside the basket across a spoke, in
again, and then cut off.
The braided handle is made by using six pieces of rattan braiding using
two pieces in each strand.
While weaving the basket, three pieces are pushed in on each side of a
spoke and the weaving is continued over the spokes.
The double ring handle is made by twisting rattan into rings and sewing
the rings to the weaving of the basket on opposite sides.
In sewing baskets or other articles, different kinds of stitches are
used. To put a hat together the braids are sewed together with a
plain stitch, whereas in putting a basket together a fancy stitch is
employed.
The Indians are famous for the various kinds of fancy stitches, which
they have used in making basketry articles.
The skip stitch which is used in sewed baskets is made by enclosing two
spokes at a time or enclosing one spoke between every two.
Another useful and decorative stitch which is often used is the split
stitch. The spokes are twined with raffia for a certain distance and
then are split in two and the right spoke of one is joined to the left
spoke of the other and twined with raffia as one.
Sometimes in making a cover for a hanging jar the spokes radiating from
the centre are brought diagonally across each other and joined together
by the winding stitch.
Many of the simple lace stitches described in a preceding chapter prove
very useful in basketry work.
To make the melon-shaped basket shown in Figure 206 a six-inch pair
of embroidery hoops will be needed. One hoop is placed inside of
the other. The inside hoop is perpendicular while the other one is
horizontal. Tie the two rings together at the point of intersection.
From basket splint one sixteenth of an inch thick, cut six strips which
are ten inches in length. They should be one inch and three quarters in
the centre and taper to points at both ends.
[Illustration: Fig. 206. A melon-shaped basket]
Select raffia in two shades. The natural and brown were used for this
basket. With a strand of the brown start to weave at the point of
intersection.
Wind around the four pieces of hoop until a square about one and a half
inches is made. Repeat on the opposite side of the hoops.
[Illustration: Photograph by Mary G. Huntsman. Sewed Raffia Baskets
Make Attractive Gifts]
Take two of these pieces of prepared basket splints and insert them in
the centre of both squares. First one side of the pieces is inserted
in the square and then the other end of the ribs is inserted in the
other square. The natural colour raffia is now used to weave over the
hoops and ribs. The weaving is done over and under and back and forth
from side to side until there are a dozen rows of weaving. The other
side of the basket is treated in like manner.
The other four ribs are inserted two on each side of those previously
placed. Now begin and weave all the way across. Weave several rows of
brown then the natural raffia. You will put in more or less of the
brown raffia as you desire, only the pattern on each side of the centre
must agree.
Instead of weaving from one side and then across to the other, it is a
better plan to weave a little first on one side of the basket and then
on the other. In this way you are sure of your pattern.
[Illustration: Fig. 207. The cover]
If the raffia is threaded in a large needle it is easier to weave.
Another strand or more is wound around the handle. A basket such as
this makes an attractive fruit basket and is just the thing to give to
sick friends or to use when going berrying.
[Illustration: Fig. 208. Buttonholing the cardboard]
[Illustration: Fig. 209. A simple basket box]
Raffia can be used in many ways as you have already seen. A pretty box
for jewellery is one that is almost as easy to make as the napkin ring.
Get a sheet of thin white cardboard. The brown cardboard is a very weak
material and easily bends and breaks. Cut two circles of cardboard five
inches in diameter. Use compasses to inscribe the circle, so that it
may be perfect. Then cut a strip seventeen inches long by two inches
wide. From the centre of one of the circles cut a two-inch circle. This
piece will be the top of the box. Now thread your needle with a strand
of the raffia which has been soaked in water and buttonhole in raffia
over the cardboard. When the cardboard has been entirely covered with
the raffia stitches (Figure 207) take the other circle of cardboard
and cut a half-inch circle from the centre. Cover this piece of
cardboard like the top. (Figure 208). The raffia should be wiped before
using it; if not the water will spoil the cardboard.
The centre opening on the cover will be filled with a
spider-in-its-web. Make four strands of raffia across the space. We
now have eight spokes. Take the threaded needle back to the centre and
having passed under a spoke go back and pick it up. The idea is to go
back over one and forward under two. Continue in this manner till the
spider is the size you desire.
The long strip of cardboard is sewed together and is worked like the
napkin ring. With a strand of raffia, cast or bind the bottom of the
box to the side. The top is fastened on one side with two strands of
raffia which are tied in a bow. The extra ends are cut off.
XXIII
RAFFIA HATS
Many of our little girls have made any number of dolls' hats by just
braiding raffia and sewing the braids together.
If you were to make a large hat (by this I mean a hat large enough
to wear yourself) by sewing braids of raffia together, it would be
entirely too heavy and also would fall into any shape, perhaps not a
very desirable one.
The only thing to do would be to procure a wire frame and to make the
raffia hat on it.
In order to do this we will have to braid enough raffia for the whole
hat before doing anything else.
For this kind of braiding the raffia will have to be soaked in water
and then rolled out so that the strands will look like pieces of ribbon
about three quarters of an inch wide.
You may use a five, seven, or nine strand braid for this hat. Take one
long strand of raffia and place it horizontally on a flat surface. Tie
seven long pieces to the horizontal piece as shown in Figure 210.
Begin with the last strand on the right-hand side and weave it over the
next, under the following one, etc., toward the left side letting it
hang out to the left. Take the next strand on the right and weave it in
the same manner as the preceding one.
[Illustration: Fig. 210. Weaving the raffia]
When the left-hand side is reached, drop the first left-hand one with
the rest and let the new weaver hang out till the next is brought over.
The first one, when it reaches the left side, is always turned over the
last weaver just brought over before dropping it (the first one) into
place with the others.
When the first set of strands are used, replace them one at a time by
using the new and old together about two inches from the end of each.
It will take about eighteen or twenty yards of braiding to cover the
frame. When the braiding is ready to sew on the hat, begin with the
centre of the crown. When the crown is entirely covered, start with
the brim and begin sewing the coils together to the frame at the base
of the crown. The under side of the brim may be covered with silk or
material of a similar kind, or if you prefer to have it, covered with
braid sewed on in the same manner as the outside, beginning at the base
of the crown.
When the whole hat frame has been covered with the braiding, you may
roll it in the front or on the side, or in fact any place to suit
yourself. A nice large bow of ribbon placed on the hat in a becoming
fashion would make it very attractive, or for those who prefer flowers
and ribbon the hat trimmed in this manner would be equally charming.
A woven raffia hat made on a wire frame is a very charming and neat
creation.
It takes time and patience and skill to make the hat, but when it is
finished you are doubly repaid for your work and the time spent on it.
The crown is woven first and then fitted to the crown of the wire
frame. Take a small strand of raffia to make a ring of very small
dimensions, say about one quarter of an inch in diameter. To this
ring, knot eight strands of raffia as shown in Figure 211. Eight more
strands are tied around each of the eight strands, using the very
pretty and effective "Solomon's Knot."
[Illustration: Fig. 211. The crown of the hat]
This knot is a very simple twist and may be tied either with a double
or single strand. The strand which is tied on is laid first under the
main double strand and then both ends are crossed over each other. The
right one goes first under the end of the left-hand one and over the
double middle strand and then again under the loop of the left-hand one.
It would be well to practise with strands of raffia other than those
used in making the hat so as to become quite familiar with the knot
before using it on the hat. Counting the eight strands tied to the
ring and the sixty-four strands that are Solomon-knotted to the
original eight we have seventy-two strands in all. They start from a
common centre and are brought down and outward through the pattern and
are knotted one by one onto the main strands as they cross.
If you were to trace any one of the seventy-two strands you will find
that it comes to the outside edge of the square through a very simple
course. The last or eighth strand, knotted to the main strands, is used
to tie up the bunch of strands coming from the sides of the diamond.
It falls into place with the other strands and is tied up in turn as
the others are. The larger knot tying up the bunch of raffia in the
centre of the diamond is the same kind of knot as the smaller ones. It
may look slightly different in composition, but that is due to the fact
that it is being tied around a larger bulk.
After the knots have been all tied at the edges of the diamonds, the
ends are woven under and over making a sort of a square design as shown
in the illustration.
The finishing of the crown is done by taking four strands, two from
each of the squares at the centre, and knotting them together with a
simple knot. Two from each side are knotted together.
If you find that the strands do not come out in sets of four, make an
extra strand by splitting in two one of the other strands.
The brim of the hat is not so tedious to make as the crown and having a
larger surface on which to work you will find that the progress is more
rapid and requires less time and energy.
Knot on the outer wire of the frame as many strands of raffia as will
fit very closely but easily side by side and then tie them into loops
such as were used on the edge of the crown of the hat. This loop is the
same as that used in making the shopping bags and hammocks described in
the next chapter.
You may use your own judgment in designing the brim. The outer edge may
be made of the same loops that we have just spoken of. On the next row
the strands of raffia are drawn down tightly and tied around the wire
with a simple knot.
Alternate these two designs and you will have a very pretty brim.
To finish off the edge on the brim, cut the ends off to about three
quarters of an inch in length and sew them in under the wire with a
needle threaded with fine raffia. A tapestry needle or a darning needle
would do for this purpose.
The trimming for this hat could be easily made of raffia. I will leave
it to the maker to decide what would be most suitable to the taste.
I might suggest such articles as buckles made of raffia or rattan or
perhaps quills made of raffia.
If you do not care to have the hat trimmed with its own material,
velvet ribbon, satin, flowers, quills, etc., would make a desirable
trimming.
A very bewitching hat of a plain, three-strand braid of raffia can be
easily made with very little trouble.
The raffia has to be soaked in water until it is soft. Unroll each
strip and it will probably be about three quarters of an inch wide. In
order to make the braid thick enough it will be necessary to use three
or four pieces in one strand of the braid. Braid about nineteen or
twenty yards before beginning to make the hat.
Choose a wire frame of a low rounded crown and a broad flat brim. If
you wish to change the shape of the frame after the braid is sewed on,
it will be a very trifling matter.
The end at which the braid is begun forms the centre of the crown. It
is bent over at about five eighths of an inch from the tip and the
long end is coiled around in a second row, the edge of which comes an
eighth of an inch under the edge of the centre. It is generally sewed
on with a darning needle, threaded with a very fine strand of raffia.
Use the back-stitch bringing the strand all the way through on the
right side and then all the way through underneath.
The crown is made entirely by sewing the plaits together, separately
from the wire frame, but it will be well to try it on the frame
occasionally so that it will securely fit. When about six or seven rows
have been sewed together and the crown is four or five inches high, the
brim is begun. The coil of braiding is brought around more loosely and
flattened out as it is sewed.
When six or seven rows have been completed, the brim at the back will
be large enough. Each succeeding row will have to be cut as it gets
near the back and the end fitted in under the previous row until the
sides near the back are about nine or ten rows wide and the front
twelve rows. It would be well to pull the coil slightly tighter as it
draws nearer the outer edge so that the last rows may roll a little.
If you care to have the under brim of braided raffia it can be made in
the same way, except that it is one row wider at the front and sides,
to allow it to roll over the edges of the brim. It is pressed on the
wrong side and attached to the under brim of the wire frame, with very
small stitches of raffia. The outer edge of the under brim should not
be fastened until the crown and the top brim are on the wire frame, as
the top brim should come over the edge of the under brim.
The crown and the upper brim are now pressed on the inside and put on
the frame to which they are caught with a stitch of raffia here and
there.
The centre of the crown particularly should be firmly attached with
stitching to the centre of the wire frame. A row of braiding is brought
around to cover where the upper and under brims join inside the rolled
brim and is sewed on either edge with small stitches of raffia.
[Illustration: Fig. 212. A braided hat for yourself]
A hat like this would be very pretty trimmed with a satin ribbon or
silk bow. A large bow at the side or the back would make it very
attractive if the bow is of a contrasting colour.
Some people prefer leaves and flowers, with a little touch of silk;
others quills or feathery materials. In fact it may be trimmed with
material of any kind.
XXIV
KNOTTING FOR DOLLS' HAMMOCKS, SHOPPING BAGS, AND OTHER PURPOSES
Knotting of raffia for dolls' hammocks, shopping bags, belts, coverings
for hanging jars, and many other things proves to be a very interesting
part of the basketry work.
Little girls could easily make some very pretty belts to be worn with
some of their dainty frocks, and I don't know what could be more
delightful than a hammock for dolly to sleep in.
First let us see how we can make dolly's hammock. We will have to have
two small brass rings about three quarters of an inch in diameter,
twelve pieces of raffia, and a pair of scissors.
Place one of the rings on a table or other flat surface and tie each
of the twelve pieces of raffia on the ring, leaving an end about an
inch long. Begin and tie simple knots three inches from the ring and
one inch apart, knotting the strands two and two until nine or ten rows
have been completed. Finish the hammock by fastening the ends three
inches from the last row of knots, to the other ring. The hammock is
ready for Sally Ann to have a nap.
The next thing to do is to make a shopping bag, to carry all the small
bundles when you go down town to buy dolls' clothes.
This little bag is made with the same kind of knotting, only the number
of strands and the arrangement of them differ (Figure 213).
Twenty-two strands of raffia and a pair of scissors are necessary.
Arrange twenty of the strands in pairs, and tie each pair in the
centre. Place them on a table with the knots side by side, leaving a
little less than ten inches on each side of the knots. Begin on one
side of the centre knots, and tie one strand from one knot to the next
strand from the next knot. They must be an inch from the first knots.
Tie the same two strands an inch from the centre on the opposite side.
In the same way tie the outside strands of this group to form the
corners. Tie them one inch from the first centre knot. Make ten rows of
knots an inch apart. When these have been completed, the bag is ready
for the handles.
Separate the strands on one side of the bag from those on the other.
Divide the group on one side in half. Fasten each group one and a half
inches beyond the last row of knots. Braid the strands about six
inches. Do the same with each group, making four braids in all. Hold
the two braids from one end of the bag together so that the loose ends
of one braid overlap the other. Beginning at the middle point make a
binding one and a half inches to the right and a similar one to the
left. Cover the binding with "Solomon's Knots." Keep the lines of
knotting straight. Finish the opposite handle in the same way.
[Illustration: Fig. 213. A shopping bag]
Some day when you have shopping to do for your mother, take your bag
along and see how handy it will be.
In the beginning of the chapter I spoke of a belt to wear with a pretty
frock. A belt made of a six strand braid proves to be very serviceable
to some little girls. You may use plain white raffia or a plain colour
but oftentimes two colours add to the attractiveness of the belt.
Take three long pieces of raffia, that is, if the raffia is very thick;
if not, six or twelve pieces using two or four pieces as one strand.
Hold the strands at the centre in the left hand. Put the strand on the
extreme right over and under the next two strands. The strand on the
extreme left is put under, over and under the other strands. This forms
a braid. Continue doing this braiding until the belt is long enough to
suit you. To finish the ends tie the remaining loose strands close to
the braid and cut off the ends. Turn the knots under and sew over the
ends with the loop-stitch described in a preceding chapter.
In working with raffia many times an article will need something to
put a finishing touch to it, I would suggest using a fringe or tassel
according to the kind of work in question. In my experience they have
proved to be just the thing for such purposes. For example, in knotting
raffia for a work bag, the ends of the raffia may be left hanging and
when cut to an even length provide a very plain finish for the bottom
of the bag. Fringing or tassels would, I think, add considerably to the
appearance of the article. To make fringe on the bottom of such a bag
it is necessary to cut the ends an even length after the last knot has
been made, and with a pin or needle fray out the ends very finely.
The way to make tassels for a finish is to wind a strand of raffia
over a cardboard about two or three times, or if the tassel is to be
quite thick, wind five or six times. Slip it off and bind it several
times near the top with the end strand of the bag. Sew it fast with a
tapestry needle. Cut through the centre of the loops. A row of these
across the bottom of a bag are very effective.
[Illustration: Fig. 214. A whisk broom]
A very dainty little article for a very small child to make is a little
clothes brush or whisk broom. Secure a brass ring about one inch in
diameter and cover the ring with the loop stitch. Fold twelve strands
of raffia twice and slip the bunch through the ring bending it in the
middle. Make a binding one inch below the ring and one inch long; cover
the binding with "Solomon's Knots." Fringe the ends well and trim off
evenly (Figure 214).
Knotting in silks, cotton or linen strands should be mentioned in
this chapter. It is a difficult thing to find a piece of fringe that
will just match the colour of silk you have but it is an easy matter
to make the fringe yourself. The simplest kind is the knot fringe.
It can be made of filo, rope, twisted, or heavy floss when used in
connection with a silk, satin, or velvet background. For cotton or
linen background, cotton floss or fine cord can be used.
Let us suppose that you wish to make the fringe into a hem. Take a
cluster of six or eight strands of rope silk, ten inches in length,
and draw them through the extreme edge of the hem. If the other kind
of silks are used, more strands will be necessary. Knot the cluster
close to the hem. At a little less than a half inch distance over make
another cluster and repeat in this manner across the space on which you
want the fringe.
Now take the first cluster and divide it in half. Hold the half nearest
the next group in your left hand and divide the second group. Taking
the half close to first group, knot the strands together one half inch
from the hem. Continue like this all the way across. Do not pucker the
material when knotting.
A third row of knots is now made below the second. This takes up the
first half of the knot previously used and half of the next group.
In this way you form a diamond. If a deeper fringe with more knots is
desired cut the strands of silk three inches longer. For every inch of
fringe allow three inches of strands.
XXV
SIMPLE BEAD CHAINS ON SINGLE STRINGS, A HOME-MADE LOOM, WOVEN CHAINS,
BELTS AND PURSES
Have you ever taken pop corn and made a chain of it for Christmas
trees, or perhaps you have strung cranberries? Maybe it was the first
time that you ever held a needle. I remember when we were youngsters
living in the South, our nurse used to take us out under trees and we
would string "Job's Tears" for hours. Many drug stores sell these seeds
on strings for infants to cut their teeth on.
The simplest form of bead work is just as easy as stringing pop corn or
berries. Beads come in all sizes from the tiny ones that are no bigger
than a top of a pin to the large ones the size of a marble. Sometimes
you can get odd-shaped beads, flat on one side and curved on the other.
A string that is pretty enough to wear on state occasions can be made
of heart-shaped and round beads.
The regular bead needle is very fine and long. It is better when
stringing a single strand to double the thread. Use linen thread No.
100 or 150. Thread the needle with a piece of thread eight inches
longer than double the length of the necklace. Bring the two ends
together and make a knot three and a half inches from the ends of the
thread. The thread will be very much stronger if you wax it. Now thread
seven small round beads then an odd shaped one. Repeat in this manner
till you have the length of chain desired. Cut off the needle and tie
the remaining thread in a tight knot close to the beads. Ribbons are
sometimes used to fasten the chain or necklace together but the little
clasps that you can buy for a few cents are neater and do not get
soiled as ribbon does. Fasten on the clasp with the thread that extends
beyond the knots.
A sweet little daisy chain can be made on two threads. Thread two bead
needles with two long threads. Bring one end of each thread together
and make a knot as described above. Fasten the knot to a table with a
pin so that one needle is on the right and the other one on the left.
Thread two white beads on your right hand needle. Put your left hand
needle down through the white bead so that you have a thread coming
from each side of the beads. Your needles will have changed position.
Thread the right hand needle with one yellow bead. Pass the left hand
needle down through this and again the needles are reversed. Thread two
more white beads like the first two and do the same thing. Now take the
right hand needle and thread two more white beads and carry the needle
through the first two white beads from right to left. Thread two more
white beads on the same needle and carry it through the second or top
group of white beads from left to right. Thread ten green beads on each
of the needles and now we are ready to make another daisy (Figure 215).
Continue in this manner till the necklace is complete.
[Illustration: Fig. 215. A daisy chain]