_Ingredients._—The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to
taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of
fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened
with flour, puff paste. _Mode._—Clear the fish from the bones, lay it
in a pie-dish, and between each layer put a few oysters and a little
seasoning; add the stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter;
cover with puff paste, and bake for ½ hour. Boil the cream with
sufficient flour to thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve. _Time._—½
hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 10_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4
persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
SOLES, to Choose.
This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin is difficult to be
taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.
SOLES, Baked.
_Ingredients._—2 soles, ¼ lb. of butter, egg, and bread-crumbs, minced
parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode._—Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly
in a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread-crumbs mixed
with a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish,
white side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may
each be laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the
top of the other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake
for 20 minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish,
add the wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour
it _under_ the fish, and serve. _Time._—20 minutes. _Average cost_,
1_s._ to 2_s._ per pair. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_
at any time.
SOLES, Boiled.
_Ingredients._—¼ lb. salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—Cleanse and
wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do not skin it. Lay it
in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it, salted in
the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a boil, and keep it
simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of the fish. Dish
it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish with parsley
and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted butter, are
usually sent to table with this dish. _Time._—After the water boils, 7
minutes for a middling-sized sole. _Average cost_, 1_s._ to 2_s._ per
pair. _Sufficient._—1 middling-sized sole for two persons. _Seasonable_
at any time.
SOLES, Boiled or Fried, to Help.
The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it right through,
bone and all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. A
moderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices; namely, the
head, middle, and tail. The guests should be asked which of these they
prefer. A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is very
large, the upper side may be raised from the bone, and then divided
into pieces; and the under side afterwards served in the same way.
In helping Filleted Soles, one fillet is given to each person.
SOLES, Filleted, à l’Italienne.
_Ingredients._—2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; egg
and bread-crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon. _Mode._—Skin, and
carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the bone, and divide
each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with white of egg, sprinkle
with bread-crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a baking-dish. Place
small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for ½ hour. When they
are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve on
a dish, with Italian sauce (_see_ Sauces) poured over. _Time._—½ hour.
_Average cost_, from 1_s._ to 2_s._ per pair. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5
persons. _Seasonable_ at anytime.
Whiting may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very
delicious.
SOLES, Fricasseed.
_Ingredients._—2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, ½ teaspoonful of
chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated
bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, ½ pint
of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice
to taste. _Mode._—Fry the soles of a nice brown, and drain them well
from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole, chop it fine, and mix
with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and seasoning; work altogether,
with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make this into small balls,
and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a dessertspoonful of flour, add
the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice; lay in the 2 soles and balls;
let them simmer gently for 5 minutes; serve hot, and garnish with cut
lemon. _Time._—10 minutes to fry the soles. _Average cost_ for this
quantity, 3_s._ _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any
time.
SOLES, Fried Filleted.
Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily
separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash the
fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it into
nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after
dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with twine,
or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and cover with
bread-crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe, and garnish
with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is desired, this
is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they look much
better than when fried whole. Instead of rolling the fillets, they may
be cut into square pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on
the dish. _Time._—About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1_s._ to 2_s._
per pair. _Sufficient_, 2 large soles for 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at
any time.
SOLES, Fried.
_Ingredients._—2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified dripping,
egg, and bread-crumbs. _Mode._—Skin and carefully wash the soles, and
cut off the fins, wipe them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth
until it is time to dress them. Have ready some fine bread-crumbs and
beaten egg; dredge the soles with a little flour, brush them over
with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with
plenty of clarified dripping or lard (when the expense is not objected
to, oil is still better) heated, so that it may neither scorch the
fish nor make them sodden. When they are sufficiently cooked on one
side, turn them carefully, and brown them on the other: they may be
considered ready when a thick smoke rises. Lift them out carefully,
and lay them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper, to
absorb the fat. Particular attention should be paid to this, as nothing
is more disagreeable than greasy fish: this may be always avoided by
dressing them in good time, and allowing a few minutes for them to get
thoroughly crisp, and free from greasy moisture. Dish them on a hot
napkin, garnish with cut lemon and fried parsley, and send them to
table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter. _Time._—10 minutes for
large soles; less time for small ones. _Average cost_, from 1_s._ to
2_s._ per pair. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any
time.
SOLES, with Mushrooms.
_Ingredients._—1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz.
salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles. _Mode._—Cleanse
the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a fish-kettle, with
the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring them gradually
to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, which will be in
about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth, put them on
a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (_See_ Sauces.)
_Time._—After the water boils, 7 minutes. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
SOLES, with Cream Sauce.
_Ingredients._—2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; the
juice of ½ lemon, salt and water, ½ pint of cream. _Mode._—Skin, wash,
and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2 pieces; lay them in
cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a boil. When the water
boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately clean stewpan, and
cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very gently for ten
minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice. The fillets
may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is not so
economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream is
required. _Time._—10 minutes in the cream. _Average cost_, from 1_s._
to 2_s._ per pair. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any
time.
This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.
SOUFFLÉ, to make.
_Ingredients._—3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour,
arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, ¼ saltspoonful of salt
flavouring. _Mode._—Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above
ingredients is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan,
with the remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient
pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over
the fire until the mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and
let it cool a little. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs,
beat the latter, and stir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the
whites of the eggs to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends
the excellence of the dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and
add a few drops of essence of any flavouring that may be preferred;
such as vanilla, lemon, orange, ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into
a soufflé-dish, put it immediately into the oven, and bake for about
½ hour; then take it out, put the dish into another more ornamental
one, such as is made for the purpose; hold a salamander or hot shovel
over the soufflé, strew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to
table. The secret of making a soufflé well, is to have the eggs well
whisked, but particularly the whites, the oven not too hot, and to send
it to table the moment it comes from the oven. If the soufflé be ever
so well made, and it is allowed to stand before being sent to table,
its appearance and goodness will be entirely spoiled. Soufflés may be
flavoured in various ways, but must be named accordingly. Vanilla is
one of the most delicate and recherché flavourings that can be used for
this very fashionable dish. _Time._—About ½ hour in the oven; 2 or 3
minutes to hold the salamander over. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_
for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: SOUFFLÉ-PAN.]
SOUPS, General Directions for Making.
LEAN, JUICY BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL form the basis of all good soups;
therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford
the richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat
renders soups bad, and fat is not well adapted for making them. The
principal art in composing good rich soup is so to proportion the
several ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate
over another, and that all the articles of which it is composed shall
form an agreeable whole. Care must be taken that the roots and herbs
are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportioned to the
quantity of meat and other ingredients, allowing a quart of water to
a pound of meat for soups, and half that quantity for gravies. In
making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is absolutely
necessary. It may be remarked, moreover, that a really good soup can
never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, greater
wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air. Soups
will, in general, take from four to six hours doing, and _are much
better prepared the day before they are wanted_. When the soup is cold,
the fat may be easily and completely removed; and in pouring it off,
care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the
vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a sieve. A
very fine hair-sieve or cloth is the best strainer; and if the soup is
strained while it is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked
in cold water. Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened
soups about the consistency of cream. To obtain a really clear and
transparent soup, it is requisite to continue skimming the liquor
until there is not a particle of scum remaining, this being commenced
immediately after the water is added to the meat. To thicken and give
body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrowroot, bread-raspings,
isinglass, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal are used. A piece
of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a bit of butter and flour, and
rubbed through a sieve, and gradually incorporated with the soup,
will be found an excellent addition. When soups and gravies are kept
from day to day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day,
put into fresh-scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool larder.
In temperate weather, every other day may be sufficient. Stock made
from meat only keeps good longer than that boiled with vegetables, the
latter being liable to turn the mixture sour, particularly in very warm
weather.
VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are required for the purpose of making
soups and gravies. Of these the principal are,—Scotch barley, pearl
barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice,
vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or
mushroom-ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips,
garlic, shalots, and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour
till they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent
to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form
the basis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The
older and drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks,
cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or celery seed pounded. The latter,
though equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the
fresh vegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should
be corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley,
common thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage,
mint, winter savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be
procured, and its fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving
the extract is by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.
FOR THE SEASONING OF SOUPS, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil,
burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and
white pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon peel and juice, and Seville
orange juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than
the lemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine,
mushroom ketchup, Harvey’s sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various
proportions, are, with other ingredients, manipulated into an almost
endless variety of excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are
intended to constitute the principal part of a meal, certainly ought
not to be flavoured like sauces, which are only designed to give a
relish to some particular dish.
SOUP-MAKING, the Chemistry and Economy of.
Stock being the basis of all meat soups, and, also, of all the
principal sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinary
operations, to know the most complete and economical method of
extracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the best possible stock,
or broth. The theory and philosophy of this process we will, therefore,
explain, and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted.
As all meat is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome,
and albumen, it is requisite to know that the fibres are inseparable,
constituting almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone
a long boiling.
FAT is dissolved by boiling; but as it is contained in cells covered
by a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it always
adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of the
stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not
whole, or which have burst by boiling.
GELATINE is soluble; it is the basis and the nutritious portion of the
stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when
cold, to become a jelly.
OSMAZOME is soluble even when cold and is that part of the meat which
gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals
contains more _osmazome_ than that of young ones. Brown meats contain
more than white, and the former make the stock more fragrant. By
roasting meat, the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so,
by putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain a
better flavour.
ALBUMEN is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved in
cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not quite
at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evident
that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or
after this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases,
hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains
in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from
dissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It
ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat
always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece,
as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire _that degree_ of
heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it.
BONES ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. They are
composed of an earthy substance,—to which they owe their solidity,—of
gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. _Two ounces_ of
them contain as much gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but in them, this
is so incased in the earthy substance, that boiling-water can dissolve
only the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, however, you can
dissolve more, because you multiply their surfaces; and by reducing
them to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; but you must
not grind them dry. We have said that gelatine forms the basis of
stock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste;
and to make the stock savoury, it must contain _osmazome_. Of this,
bones do not contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made
entirely of them is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken
or pulverized bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock
sufficiently savoury.
In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed hints
and directions should be attended to in the economy of soup-making:—
BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less colour and taste; whilst
mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable, unless
the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add very little
to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they
are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridge is also
a great improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock is obtained.
IF THE MEAT BE BOILED solely to make stock, it must be cut up into the
smallest possible pieces; but, generally speaking, if it is desired to
have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessary to
put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for two or
three days, during which time the stock will keep well in all weathers.
Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as possible; for if
it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and will be very soon
spoiled by the boiling.
NEVER WASH MEAT, as it deprives its surface of all its juices; separate
it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its shape may be
preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each pound of meat,
let there be one pint of water; press it down with the hand, to allow
the air, which it contains, to escape, and which often raises it to the
top of the water.
PUT THE STOCK-POT ON A GENTLE FIRE, so that it may heat gradually. The
albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is in this
state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface, bringing
with it all its impurities. It is this which makes _the scum_. The
rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifying stock
as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the more scum
there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always take care that the fire
is very regular.
REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil,
because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved, and the other
go to the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain
a clear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to add
cold water in order to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too
large at first, it will then be necessary to do so.
WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED, and begins to boil, put in salt and
vegetables, which to every 3 lbs. of meat should consist of three
carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, a few leeks, and a little celery.
You can add, according to taste, a piece of cabbage, two or three
cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The latter gives a very
agreeable flavour to the stock. If burnt onion be added, it ought,
according to the advice of a famous French _chef_, to be tied in a
little bag: without this precaution, the colour of the stock is liable
to be clouded.
BY THIS TIME we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones which
were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the roast
meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, that the
more these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best way
to break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding,
from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. It
is a great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat, which, in too
many English families, we fear, are entirely wasted; for it is certain,
as previously stated, that two ounces of bone contain as much gelatine
(which is the nutritive portion of stock) as one pound of meat. In
their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the stock-pot;
adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which can be used
for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you have received from
the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly over a clear
fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be very careful that it
does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt.
ADD NOW THE VEGETABLES, which, to a certain extent, will stop the
boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again,
then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering
till it is served, preserving, as before said, your fire always the
same. Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent evaporation; do not fill it
up, even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed;
in which case a little boiling water may be added, but only enough
to cover it. After six hours’ slow and gentle simmering, the stock
is done; and it should not be continued on the fire longer than is
necessary, or it will tend to insipidity.
_Note._—It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, that
excellence in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of
the culinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons,
and the stock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be
obtained. The stock will never be clear; and when it is obliged to
be clarified, it is deteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the
proper management of the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved,
inasmuch as one stock, in a small dinner, serves for all purposes.
Above all things, the greatest economy, consistent with excellence,
should be practised, and the price of everything which enters the
kitchen correctly ascertained. The _theory_ of this part of Household
Management may appear trifling, but its practice is extensive, and
therefore it requires the best attention.
SOUP, Baked.
_Ingredients._—1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd pieces;
2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper and
salt to taste, 4 quarts of water. _Mode._—Cut the meat and vegetables
in slices, add to them the rice and peas, season with pepper and salt.
Put the whole in a jar, fill up with the water, cover very closely, and
bake for 4 hours. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, 2½_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.
_Note._—This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be
convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than
boiling.
SOUP, Brilla.
_Ingredients._—4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large
sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste,
4 quarts water. _Mode._—Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the
bone, in nice square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the
liquor, let it cool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat
in the cold liquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop
the onions, add them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the
meat is tender. If not brown enough, colour it with browning. _Time._—6
hours. _Average cost_, 5_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
SOUP, Chantilly.
_Ingredients._—1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of parsley,
2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock. _Mode._—Boil the peas till
quite tender, with the parsley and onions; then rub them through a
sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it boil after the peas
are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very hot. _Time._—½
hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ from June to
the end of August. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to
them, make a very good soup in haste.
SOUP, Calf’s-head.
_Ingredients._—½ of calf’s head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a very
small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to
taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of
white stock, or pot-liquor, or water. _Mode._—Rub the head with salt,
soak it for 6 hours, and clean it thoroughly, put it in the stewpan,
and cover it with the stock, or pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion
and sweet herbs. When well skimmed and boiled for 1½ hour, take out
the head, and skim and strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the
ketchup, thicken the soup with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up
the head into pieces about two inches long, and simmer them in the soup
till the meat and fat are quite tender. Season with white pepper and
mace finely pounded, and serve very hot. When the calf’s head is taken
out of the soup, cover it up or it will discolour. _Time._—2½ hours.
_Average cost_, 1_s._ 9_d._ per quart, with stock. _Seasonable_ from
May to October. _Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note._—Forcemeat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured
with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones
from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables,
and it will make a very good common stock.
SOUP, à la Cantatrice. (An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the
Voice.)
_Ingredient._—3 oz. of sago, ½ pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1
lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2 quarts
of medium stock. _Mode._—Having washed the sago in boiling water,
let it be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for ½
hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs,
add to them the boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and
serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.
_Time._—40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_
all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and
eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat.
In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have
been partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the
celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always
avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing.
SOUP, à la Crécy.
_Ingredients._—4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and chervil;
2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, half a
teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock. _Mode._—Put the vegetables
with the butter in the stewpan, and let them simmer 5 minutes; then add
the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew gently for half an hour.
Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock, let it boil another
hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well soaked, rub all
through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the soup over this,
and serve. _Time._—1¾ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 2_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP, à la Flamande (Flemish).
_Ingredients._—1 turnip, 1 small carrot, ½ head of celery, 6 green
onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, ¼ pint of
asparagus cut small, ¼ pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs,
½ pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of stock.
_Mode._—Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour
with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and
simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with
the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take
the soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c., to it and keep stirring
it well. Bring it almost to boiling point, but do not leave off
stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.
_Time._—2½ hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 9_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_
from May to August. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP, à la Flamande (Flemish).
_Ingredients._—5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized potatoes,
3 oz. butter, ½ pint of water, ½ pint of cream, 2 quarts of stock.
_Mode._—Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with
the butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then
fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are
done, which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and
add the cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream
is put in. _Time._—2½ hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 4_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to May. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—This soup can be made with water instead of stock.
SOUP, a Good Family.
_Ingredients._—Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, any
cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1
parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, ½ teacupful of rice; salt
and pepper to taste. _Mode._—Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and
simmer gently for 4 hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the
meat. Strain off the soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels
and soft parts of the tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for
use, skim off all the fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the
tongue, slice in a small quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion;
stew till the vegetables are tender, and serve with toasted bread.
_Time._—5 hours. _Average cost_, 3_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ at any
time. _Sufficient_ for 12 persons.
SOUP, Hessian.
_Ingredients._—Half an ox’s head, 1 pint of split peas, 8 carrots, 6
turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury
herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice,
4 cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water. _Mode._—Clean
the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5 hours in warm
water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a pan and let it
cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add the vegetables
cut up small, and the peas which have been previously soaked; simmer
them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp through a
sieve. Put in the seasoning, with the pieces of meat cut up; give one
boil, and serve. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, 6_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 16 persons.
_Note._—An excellent hash or _ragoût_ can be made by cutting up the
nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little
of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup.
SOUP, Portable.
_Ingredients._—2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot of
herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover
all the ingredients. _Mode._—Take the marrow from the bones; put all
the ingredients in a stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or
more, if the meat be not done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a
very cool place; take off all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow
pan, by setting it over a sharp fire, but be particular that it does
not burn; boil it fast and uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred.
Put it into a deep dish, and set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan
of boiling water, place the dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir
occasionally, and when the soup is thick and ropy, it is done. Form it
into little cakes by pouring a small quantity on to the bottom of cups
or basins; when cold, turn them out on a flannel to dry. Keep them from
the air in tin canisters. _Average cost_ of this quantity, 16_s._
_Note._—Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a
small piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and
simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes,
may be added.
SOUP, Prince of Wales’s.
_Ingredients._—12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strong veal
stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very bright stock.
_Mode._—Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as round
as possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be very
bright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning.
Have little pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a shilling;
moisten them with stock; put them into a tureen and pour the soup over
without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil
the appearance of the soup, and make it look thick. _Time._—2 hours.
_Seasonable_ in the winter. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP, Regency.
_Ingredients._—The bones and remains of any cold game such as of
pheasants, partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of
celery, 1 turnip, ¼ lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled
hard, ¼ pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of medium or common
stock. _Mode._—Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with
the vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours;
skim off all the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in
2 or 3 waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the
soup, and when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other
half with the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub
it through a clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give
one boil, and serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out
first. _Time._—2½ hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ per quart, if made with
medium stock, or 6_d._ per quart, with common stock. _Seasonable_ from
September to March. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP, à la Reine.
_Ingredients._—1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1½
French roll, ½ pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of sugar, 2
quarts of good white veal stock. _Mode._—Boil the fowl gently in the
stock till quite tender, which will be in about an hour, or rather
more; take out the fowl, pull the meat from the bones, and put it into
a mortar with the almonds, and pound very fine. When beaten enough, put
the meat back in the stock, with the crumb of the rolls, and let it
simmer for an hour; rub it through a tammy, add the sugar, ½ pint of
cream that has boiled, and, if you prefer, cut the crust of the roll
into small round pieces, and pour the soup over it, when you serve.
_Time._—2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 2_s._ 7_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another
of boiling water.
SOUP, à la Reine (Economical).
_Ingredients._—Any remains of roast chickens, ½ teacupful of rice, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock. _Mode._—Take all the white meat
and pound it with the rice, which has been slightly cooked, but not
too much. When it is all well pounded, dilute with the stock, and pass
through a sieve. This soup should neither be too clear nor too thick.
_Time._—1 hour. _Average cost_, 4_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the
year. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Note._—If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with
an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt,
and stew for 3 hours.
SOUP, à la Solferino (Sardinian Recipe).
_Ingredients._—4 eggs, ½ pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter, salt
and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of bouillon.
_Mode._—Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream,
butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to the
consistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped,
and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boiling
bouillon over them. _Time._—1 hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 3_d._ per
quart. _Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English
gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24,
1859, and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel’s troops, on the
day before the battle, to partake of a portion of their _potage._ He
willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners had
made a palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. In sending
the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however, Anglicised, and
somewhat, he thinks, improved it.
SOUP, Spring, or Potage Printanier.
_Ingredients._—½ a pint of green peas, if in season, a little chervil,
2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley, 2 oz. of
butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, 2
quarts of stock. _Mode._—Put in a clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces,
onions, parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer
till tender. Season with salt and pepper; when done, strain off the
vegetables, and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the
stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it a
toss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with the
vegetables which you strained off, to the soup. _Time._—¾ of an hour.
_Average cost_, 1_s._ per quart. _Seasonable_ from May to October.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP, Stew.
_Ingredients._—2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, ¾ lb. of rice, a
large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 quarts
of water. _Mode._—Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other
ingredients, and boil gently for 2½ hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be
a great improvement. _Time._—2½ hours. _Average cost_, 6_d._ per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
SOUP, Stew.
_Ingredients._—½ lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; ½ pint of split peas,
4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of rice,
2 quarts of water. _Mode._—Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the
vegetables, and add them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for
3 hours; thicken with the oatmeal, boil for another ¼ hour, stirring
all the time, and season with pepper and salt. _Time._—3¼ hours.
_Average cost_, 4_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_
for 8 persons.
_Note._—This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been
boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.
SOUP, Stew, of Salt Meat.
_Ingredients._—Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4 carrots,
4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal
or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode._—Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for 2¾
hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season, and
boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve. _Time._—2 hours.
_Average cost_, 3_d._ per quart without the meat. _Seasonable_ in
winter. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Note._—If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the
vegetables.
SOUP, Useful for Benevolent Purposes.
_Ingredients._—An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, which
may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-liquor
the larder may furnish, ¼ peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of
herbs, ½ lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very
well); ½ lb. of carrots, ½ lb. of turnips, ½ lb. of coarse brown
sugar, ½ a pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; ½ lb.
of salt, 1 oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water.
_Mode._—Divide the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in
a copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for half an hour.
Cut up the vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil
for 4 hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and
raspings, and keep stirring till they are well mixed in the soup, which
simmer gently. If the liquor boils away a little, fill up with water.
_Time._—6½ hours. _Average cost_, 1½_d._ per quart.
SOUP, White.
_Ingredients._—¼ lb. of sweet almonds, ¼ lb. of cold veal or poultry,
a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1 blade
of mace, pounded, ¾ pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs,
2 quarts of white stock. _Mode._—Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a
paste, with a spoonful of water, and add to them the meat, which should
be previously pounded with the bread. Beat all together, and add the
lemon-peel, very finely chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock
on the whole, and simmer for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put
in the soup, bring it to a boil, and serve immediately. _Time._—1½
hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note._—-A more economical white soup may be made by using common veal
stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should be
served with it. _Average cost_, 5_d._ per quart.
SPINACH, to Boil (English Mode).
_Ingredients._—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of
salt, 1 oz. of of butter, pepper to taste. _Mode._—Pick the spinach
carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it; wash
it in several waters, and, to prevent it being gritty, act in the
following manner:—Have ready two large pans or tubs filled with water;
put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly wash it; then, _with
the hands_, take out the spinach, and put it into the _other tub_ of
water (by this means all the grit will be left at the-bottom of the
tub); wash it again, and should it not be perfectly free from dirt,
repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with about ½
pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from burning, and
the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with a wooden
spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for rather
more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it in a
colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach
into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir
the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish,
and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. _Time._—10 to 15 minutes
to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with the butter. _Average
cost_ for the above quantity, 8_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable._—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
November to March.
[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROÛTONS.]
_Note._—Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added
to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served
with spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be
garnished with sippets of toasted bread.
SPINACH dressed with Cream, à la Française.
_Ingredients._—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz.
of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, a very little grated nutmeg. _Mode._—Boil and drain the spinach;
chop it fine, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir it over
a gentle fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining
ingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to pouring in
the cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot
dish, and garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of
puff-paste. _Time._—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes
to stew with the cream. _Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8_d._
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable._—Spring spinach from
March to July; winter spinach from November to March.
SPINACH, French Mode of Dressing.
_Ingredients._—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz.
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy;
when liked, a very little grated nutmeg. _Mode._—Pick, wash, and boil
the spinach, and when tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from
the water that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into
a stewpan, and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire,
and dredge in the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil _quickly_ for
a few minutes, that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg
is liked, grate some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the
gravy has dried away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of
toasted bread. _Time._—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes
to simmer in the gravy. _Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8_d._
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable._—Spring spinach from
March to July; winter spinach from October to February.
_Note._—For an _entremets_ or second-course dish, spinach dressed by
the above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be
turned out quickly, and served immediately.
SPINACH-GREEN, for Colouring various Dishes.
_Ingredients._—2 handfuls of spinach. _Mode._—Pick and wash the spinach
free from dirt, and pound the leaves in a mortar to extract the juice;
then press it through a hair sieve, and put the juice into a small
stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain marie, or saucepan of boiling
water, and let it set. Watch it closely, as it should not boil; and,
as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so that all the water may
drain from it, and the green will then be ready for colouring. If made
according to this recipe, the spinach-green will be found far superior
to that boiled in the ordinary way.
SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).
_Ingredients._—As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill a
vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock. _Mode._—Make the
cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slip them into the
soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of the spinach
forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy. _Time._—1 hour. _Average
cost_, 1_s._ per quart. _Seasonable_ from October to June.