When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive,
their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after death, fades to a
light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that
of a cucumber.
SMELTS, to Bake.
_Ingredients._—12 smelts, bread-crumbs, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, 2
blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste. _Mode._—Wash, and
dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat
baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread-crumbs, and place little
pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15 minutes. Just
before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried
parsley and cut lemon. _Time._—¼ hour. _Average cost_, 2_s._ per dozen.
_Seasonable_ from October to May. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
SMELTS, to Fry.
_Ingredients._—Egg and bread-crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.
_Mode._—Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is
necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them
in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread-crumbs, and put them
into boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take
off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled.
Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and serve with plain melted
butter. This fish is often used as a garnishing. _Time._—5 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2_s._ per dozen. _Seasonable_ from October to May.
SNIPES, to Dress.
[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.]
_Ingredients._—Snipes, butter, flour, toast. _Mode._—These, like
woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn. Pluck, and wipe them
outside, and truss them with the head under the wing, having previously
skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at the first joint, press the
feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through these and the body.
Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack or spit, and roast
before a clear fire for about ¼ hour. Put some pieces of buttered
toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour and froth the
birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on them, and
pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. They should
be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be worth
eating. _Time._—About ¼ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._
the brace. _Sufficient._—4 for a dish. _Seasonable_ from November to
February.
_Note._—Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner.
SNIPES, to Carve.
One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a
gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite
through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal
and like portions, and put only one half on the plate.
[Illustration: SNIPE.]