In the country, where, for ordinary consumption, the pork killed for
sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the London
consumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean,
and, salting that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further,
and is consequently a more economical food, than other meats, simply
because the texture is closer, and there is less waste in the cooking,
either in roasting or boiling.
In fresh pork, the leg is the most economical family joint, and the
loin the richest.
Pork, to be preserved, is cured in several ways,—either by covering it
with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it is kept till
required; or it is only partially salted, and then hung up to dry, when
the meat is called white bacon; or, after salting, it is hung in wood
smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from the wood. The
Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as the finest in the kingdom, is
prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large wooden troughs, and then
rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered bay-salt, made hot in a
frying-pan. This process is repeated for four days; they are then left
for three weeks, merely turning the flitches every other day, After
that time they are hung up to dry. The hogs usually killed for purposes
of bacon in England average from 18 to 20 stone; on the other hand,
the hogs killed in the country for farm-house purposes, seldom weigh
less than 26 stone. The legs of boars, hogs, and, in Germany, those of
bears, are prepared differently, and called hams.
The practice in vogue formerly in this country was to cut out the hams
and cure them separately; then to remove the ribs, which were roasted
as “spare-ribs,” and, curing the remainder of the side, call it a
“gammon of bacon.”
[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most places
throughout the kingdom, as represented in the engraving. The side is
divided with nine ribs to the fore quarter; and the following is an
enumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters:—
{1. The leg.
HIND QUARTER {2. The loin.
{3. The spring, or belly.
{4. The hand.
FORE QUARTER {5. The fore-loin.
{6. The cheek.
The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may
be as follows; viz.:—
The leg 8 lbs.
The loin and spring. 7 “
The hand 6 “
The chine 7 “
The cheek from 2 to 3 “
Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and when cured are
called hams: when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade and
bones and cured, it is called bacon. The bones, with part of the meat
left on them, are divided into spare-ribs, griskins, and chines.
PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Dish).
_Ingredients._—2 lbs. of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to taste,
1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very small
bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, ½
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; good strong gravy, sufficient to fill
the mould. _Mode._—Cut, but do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and
allow ¼ lb. of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt;
pound well the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, and
lemon-peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould,
fill up with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more
than one hour. When cold, turn it out of the mould. _Time._—Rather more
than 1 hour. _Seasonable_ from October to March.
_Note._—The remains of a pig’s head, after the chops are taken off,
make most excellent pork cheese.
PORK CUTLETS, or Chops.
_Ingredients._—Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Cut the
cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trim them neatly, and
cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season them with pepper; place
the gridiron on the fire; when quite hot, lay on the chops, and broil
them for about ¼ hour, turning them 3 or 4 times; and be particular
that they are _thoroughly_ done, but not dry. Dish them, sprinkle
over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato sauce, sauce
piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be laid round the
dish as a garnish. _Time._—About ¼ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per
lb. for chops. _Sufficient._—Allow 6 for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from
October to March.
PORK CUTLETS, or Chops.
_Ingredients._—Loin, or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread-crumbs, salt
and pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful of bread-crumbs allow ½
teaspoonful of minced sage; clarified butter. _Mode._—Cut the cutlets
from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork; trim them the same as mutton
cutlets, and scrape the top part of the bone. Brush them over with egg,
sprinkle with bread-crumbs, with which have been mixed minced sage and
a seasoning of pepper and salt; drop a little clarified butter on them,
and press the crumbs well down. Put the frying-pan on the fire, put in
some lard; when this is hot, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a light
brown on both sides. Take them out, put them before the fire to dry
the greasy moisture from them, and dish them on mashed potatoes. Serve
with them any sauce that may be preferred; such as tomato sauce, sauce
piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins. _Time._—From 15 to 20
minutes. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. for chops. _Sufficient._—Allow
6 cutlets for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from October to March.
_Note._—The remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the same
manner.