_Ingredients._—Egg and bread-crumbs sufficient for the quantity of
fish; hot lard. _Mode._—Do not scrape off the scales, but take out
the gills and inside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour
and dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread-crumbs. Fry of a
nice brown. _Time._—3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost._—Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from March to July. _Sufficient._—3 for each person.
GUINEA-FOWL, Roast, Larded.
_Ingredients._—A guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt. _Mode._—When
this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a pheasant; if
plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and trussing it,
put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted, and a short
time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let it froth
nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the
same, and one of well-made bread-sauce. _Time._—Guinea-fowl, larded,
1¼ hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Note._—The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper,
and removed about 10 minutes before serving.
GURNET, or GURNARD.
_Ingredients._—1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode._—Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready
some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish
in, and simmer very gently for ½ hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy
sauce, should be served with it. _Time._—¼ hour. _Average cost._—Seldom
bought. _Seasonable_ from October to March, but in perfection in
October. _Sufficient._—A middling-sized one for two persons.
_Note._—This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat, and baked.
HADDOCK, Baked.
_Ingredients._—A nice forcemeat, butter to taste, egg and bread-crumbs.
_Mode._—Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put
in a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with
egg, sprinkle over bread-crumbs, and baste frequently with butter.
Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with, a nice brown gravy,
plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread-crumbs can
be omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish. _Time._—Large
haddock, ¾ hour; moderate size, ¼ hour. _Seasonable_ from August to
February. _Average cost_, from 9_d._ upwards.
_Note._—Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and
bread-crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley.
HADDOCK, Boiled.
_Ingredients._—Sufficient water to cover the fish; ¼ lb. of salt to
each gallon of water. _Mode._—Scrape the fish, take out the inside,
wash it thoroughly, and lay it in a kettle, with enough water to
cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to
20 minutes, or rather more, should the fish be very large. For small
haddocks, fasten the tails in their mouths, and put them into boiling
water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook them. Serve with plain melted butter,
or anchovy sauce. _Time._—Large haddock, ½ hour; small, ¼ hour, or
rather less. _Average cost_, from 9_d._ upwards. _Seasonable_ from
August to February.
HADDOCK, Dried.
Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or
over a nice clear fire. Rub a little piece of butter over, just before
sending it to table.
HADDOCK, Dried.
_Ingredients._—1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper;
boiling water. _Mode._—Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a
basin hot by means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with
the bay-leaves and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over
to keep in the steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the
slices, put them in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and
serve. _Time._—10 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time, but best in winter.
HAM OMELET (a delicious Breakfast Dish).
_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, ½ saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham. _Mode._—Mince the ham very finely,
without any fat, and fry it for 2 minutes in a little butter; then
make the batter for the omelet, stir in the ham, and proceed as in the
case of a plain omelet. Do not add any salt to the batter, as the ham
is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavour to the omelet. Good
lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well for this dish; but they
must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter.
Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy. _Time._—From 4 to 6 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any
time.
HAM, FRIED, AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).
_Ingredients._—Ham; eggs. _Mode._—Cut the ham into slices, and take
care that they are of the same thickness in every part. Cut off the
rind, and if the ham should be particularly hard and salt, it will be
found an improvement to soak it for about 10 minutes in hot water, and
then dry it in a cloth. Put it into a cold frying-pan, set it over the
fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4 times whilst they are cooking. When
done, place them on a dish, which should be kept hot in front of the
fire during the time the eggs are being poached. Poach the eggs, slip
them on to the slices of ham, and serve quickly. _Time._—7 or 8 minutes
to broil the ham. _Average cost_, 8_d._ to 1_s._ per lb. by the whole
ham. _Sufficient._—Allow 2 eggs and a slice of ham to each person.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note._—Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the latter
method, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifully
clear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable.
HAM, Potted, that will keep Good for some time.
_Ingredients._—To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2 teaspoonfuls
of pounded mace, ½ nutmeg grated, rather more than ½ teaspoonful of
cayenne, clarified lard. _Mode._—Mince the ham, fat and lean together
in the above proportion, and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it
with cayenne pepper, pounded mace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a
deep baking-dish, and bake for ½ hour; then press it well into a stone
jar, till up the jar with clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste
over it a piece of thick paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long
time in winter, and will be found very convenient for sandwiches, &c.
_Time._—½ hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.
HAM, Potted (a nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table).
_Ingredients._—To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow ½ lb. of fat, 1 teaspoonful
of pounded mace, ½ teaspoonful of pounded allspice, ½ nutmeg, pepper to
taste, clarified butter. _Mode._—Cut some slices from the remains of a
cold ham, mince them small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean allow the above
proportion of fat. Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the
fat, gradually add the seasonings and spices, and be very particular
that all the ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded.
Press the mixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and
keep it in a cool place. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 2_s._ 6_d._
_Seasonable_ at any time.
HAM, to Bake.
_Ingredients._—Ham; a common crust. _Mode._—As a ham for baking should
be well soaked, let it remain in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe
it dry, trim away any rusty places underneath, and cover it with a
common crust, taking care that this is of sufficient thickness all
over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a moderately-heated oven, and
bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust and skin, and cover with
raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and garnish the knuckle with
a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is, by many persons,
considered far superior to boiling it, as it cuts fuller of gravy and
has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longer time good. _Time._—A
medium-sized ham, 4 hours. _Average cost_, from 8_d._ to 1_s._ per lb.
by the whole ham. _Seasonable_ all the year.
HAM, to Boil.
[Illustration: BOILED HAM]
_Ingredients._—Ham, water, glaze, or raspings. _Mode._—In choosing a
ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by running a sharp knife
into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knife is withdrawn, it has
an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on the contrary, the blade
has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham is bad. If it has
been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let it remain in soak for
24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length of time is only
necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to 12 hours would
be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash it thoroughly
clean, and trim away from the under-side all the rusty and smoked
parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a boiling-pot,
with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it gradually to boil, and
as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmering very gently
until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling, nor boil
too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off the skin, and
sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cut paper
round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham remain
in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices are kept
in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of the
water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must _not_
remain in the saucepan _all_ night. When the skin is removed, sprinkle
over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it. Place
a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cut
vegetable flowers. _Time._—A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to _simmer
gently_; 15 lbs., 5 hours; a very large one, about 6 hours. _Average
cost_, from 8_d._ to 1_s._ per lb. by the whole ham. _Seasonable_ all
the year.
HAM, how to Boil to give it an excellent flavour.
_Ingredients._—Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3
onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs. _Mode._—Prepare the ham as in
the preceding recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in vinegar and
water. Put it on in cold water, and when it boils, add the vegetables
and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, take it out, strip off the
skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a paper ruche or frill round
the knuckle. _Time._—A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours. _Average cost_,
8_d._ to 1_s._ per lb. by the whole ham. _Seasonable_ at any time.
HAM, to Carve.
In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desires to
practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime part.
Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and
cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham. To reach the
choicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should
be carried quite down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2.
The slices should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone.
There are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top,
and then slicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the
circle; but we think this is a plan not to be recommended. A ham, when
hot, is usually sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle.
[Illustration: HAM.]
HAMS, for Curing (Mons. Ude’s Recipe).
_Ingredients._—For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1
lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart
of good vinegar. _Mode._—As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut
up, take the 2 hams and rub them well with common salt, and leave
them in a large pan for 3 days. When the salt has drawn out all the
blood, drain the hams, and throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and
saltpetre together in the above proportion, rub the hams well with
these, and put them into a vessel large enough to hold them, always
keeping the salt over them. Let them remain for 3 days, then pour over
them a quart of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a
month, then drain them well, and rub them with bran. Have them smoked
over a wood fire, and be particular that the hams are hung as high
up as possible from the fire; otherwise the fat will melt, and they
will become dry and hard. _Time._—To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked
1 month. _Sufficient_ for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each. _Seasonable_ from
October to March.
HAMS, to Cure Sweet, in the Westmoreland way.
_Ingredients._—3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb.
of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer. _Mode._—Before the hams are put
into pickle, rub them the preceding day well with salt, and drain the
brine well from them. Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, and
boil for ¼ hour; pour over the hams, and let them remain a month in the
pickle. Rub and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the
pickling-pan; and have them smoked for a month. _Time._—To be pickled 1
month; to be smoked 1 month. _Seasonable_ from October to March.
HAMS, to Pickle (Suffolk Recipe).
_Ingredients._—To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse
sugar, ¾ lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, ½ a teacupful of vinegar.
_Mode._—Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day
or two to drain; then rub well in the above proportion of sugar, salt,
saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in
the pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood
fire for 3 weeks or a month. _Time._—To remain in the pickle 1 month;
to be smoked 3 weeks or 1 month. _Sufficient._—The above proportion of
pickle is sufficient for 1 ham. _Seasonable._—Hams should be pickled
from October to March.
HAMS, to Salt Two, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.
_Ingredients._—2 lbs. of treacle, ½ lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of
bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt. _Mode._—Two days before they are put
into pickle, rub the hams well with salt, to draw away all slime and
blood. Throw what comes from them away, and then rub them with treacle,
saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a deep pan, and let them remain one
day; boil the above proportion of treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and
common salt for ¼ hour, and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams:
there should be sufficient of it to cover them. For a day or two rub
them well with it; afterwards they will only require turning. They
ought to remain in this pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then be
sent to be smoked, which will take nearly or quite a month to do. An
ox-tongue pickled in this way is most excellent, to be eaten either
green or smoked. _Time._—To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to
be smoked about a month. _Seasonable_ from October to March.
HAMS, to Smoke, at Home.
Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to put
a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on.
Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan
filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the
tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the
iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan,
cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain
40 hours, and keep up a good smoke. Fish may be smoked in the same
manner.
HARE, Broiled (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).
_Ingredients._—The legs and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and salt
to taste, a little butter. _Mode._—Cut the legs and shoulders from a
roast hare, season them highly with salt and cayenne, and broil them
over a very clear fire for 5 minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over
them a little cold butter, and send to table very quickly. _Time._—5
minutes. _Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HARE, Hashed.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast hare,
1 blade of pounded mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste,
1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine,
thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode._—Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones,
and trimmings into a stewpan, with ¾ pint of water; add the mace,
allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and
strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and
ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be
left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when
it has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with
sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.
_Time._—Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold
hare, 6_d._ _Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HARE, Jugged (very good).
_Ingredients._—1 hare, 1½ lb. of gravy beef, ½ lb. of butter, 1 onion,
1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; ½ pint of port
wine. _Mode._—Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces,
dredge them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1½ pint
of gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with
a little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an
onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good
seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly,
put it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew
until the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling.
When nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls:
these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few minutes before they
are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly. _Time._—3½ to 4
hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4½ hours. _Average cost_, 7_s._
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ from September to the end
of February.
HARE, Jugged (a Quicker and more Economical Way).
_Ingredients._—1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, ½ teaspoonful of black pepper, a strip
of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, ¼ pint of port wine. _Mode._—Wash the hare nicely,
cut it up into joints (not too large), and flour and brown them as in
the preceding recipe; then put them into a stewpan with the herbs,
onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and lemon-peel; cover with hot water,
and when it boils, carefully remove all the scum, and let it simmer
gently till tender, which will be in about 1¾ hour, or longer, should
the hare be very old. Take out the pieces of hare, thicken the gravy
with flour and butter, add the ketchup and port wine, let it boil
for about 10 minutes, strain it through a sieve over the hare, and
serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be added at the moment of
serving, or, instead of frying them, they may be stewed in the gravy,
about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for table. Do not omit to
serve red-currant jelly with it. _Time._—Altogether 2 hours. _Average
cost_, 5_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ from
September to the end of February.
_Note._—Should there be any left, re-warm it the next day by putting
the hare, &c., into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan
of boiling water; this method prevents a great deal of waste.
HARE, Potted (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).
_Ingredients._—1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of savoury
herbs, 4 cloves, ½ teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2 onions,
salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.
_Mode._—Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and
put it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it;
add the remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare
is tender, and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When
done enough, take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with
the bacon_, in a mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste.
Should it not be sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and
pounded mace, but be careful that these are well mixed with the other
ingredients. Press the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified
butter, and keep in a dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed
in, should be saved for hashes, soups, &c. &c. _Time._—About 2½ hours
to stew the hare. _Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HARE, Roast.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
_Ingredients._—Hare, forcemeat, a little milk, butter. _Choosing and
Trussing._—Choose a young hare; which may be known by its smooth and
sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much spread. To
be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if properly
taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to hang
without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe the
inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger, to
prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and
also which affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well,
and soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let
it lie in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in
several waters. Make a forcemeat, wipe the hare dry, fill the belly
with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the body
towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between the
shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the ears
on. Put a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it
above the back. _Mode._—The hare should be kept at a distance from the
fire when it is first laid down, or the outside will become dry and
hard before the inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short
time, and afterwards with butter; and particular attention must be
paid to the basting, so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and
nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste
well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish it, remove the skewers,
and send it to table with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of
the same. Red-currant jelly must also not be forgotten, as this is
an indispensable accompaniment to roast hare. For economy, good beef
dripping may be substituted for the milk and butter to baste with;
but the basting, as we have before stated, must be continued without
intermission. If the liver is good, it may be parboiled, minced, and
mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be used unless quite fresh.
_Time._—A middling-sized hare, 1¼ hour; a large hare, 1½ to 2 hours.
_Average cost_, from 4_s._ to 6_s._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HARE, Roast, to Carve.
The “Grand Carver” of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary
dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill
and grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners à la Russe_ may
possibly, erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the
art which was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of
the youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till
we see the office of “grand carver” once more instituted, it will be
well for all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which,
if not the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite.
The hare, having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should
be first served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in
the direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are
disposed of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the
line indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken
off by passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should
now be divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line
1 to 2, taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint
where the back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to
serve any bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced
from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments,
and where men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of
the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process
of carving is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to
be remembered in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy
should accompany each helping, otherwise this dish, which is naturally
dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is
also served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and
the brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]