Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition. When
the spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit for human
food.
When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge, however
much it may be boiled; whenever it is in season, its muscles are firm,
and boil white and curdy.
As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock,
coal-fish, and whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, skate,
turbot, and flounders, are also good.
Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose after
they are killed; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be
prepared for the table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this
is not of such consequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for
example, is improved by being kept for a few hours.
FISH, General Directions for Dressing.
In dressing fish of any kind, the first point to be attended to, is to
see that it is perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it too
much, as by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be
boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give
it firmness, after it is cleaned. Codfish, whiting, and haddock, are
none the worse for being a little salted, and kept a day; and, if the
weather be not very hot, they will be good for two days.
When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is purchased
than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear it should
be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it may be fried,
that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish, having
frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strong salt and
water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, it may
be scalded in salt and water, and afterwards dried and dressed.
Fish should be put into cold water and set on the fire to do very
gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless
the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor
should water, either hot or cold, be poured _on_ to the fish, as it is
liable to break the skin; if it should be necessary to add a little
water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at
the side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the
fish be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the
bone. It should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will
become woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle,
to keep hot for serving, and a cloth laid over the fish, to prevent its
losing its colour.
In garnishing fish great attention is required, and plenty of parsley,
horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be used, it
must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When the lard
or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from the
water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken
up with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is
more appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in
some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may
be distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will be
appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.
If fish is to be fried or broiled it must be dried in a nice soft cloth
after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it over with
egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a second
time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much the better.
If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper must be
placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease; it must also
be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter
gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are most frequently
used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection. The fish
should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a
sufficiency of this to cover it.
When fish is broiled, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a very
clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet,
to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very clear
fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may not be
scorched.
In choosing fish, it is well to remember that it is possible it may be
_fresh_, and yet not _good_. Under the head of each particular fish in
this work, are appended rules for its choice, and the months when it is
in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to have
the fish good; as, if this important course in a dinner does not give
satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.
FISH, General Directions for Carving.
In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as,
if these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should
be acquainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give
each guest an equal share of these _titbits_ should be his maxim. Steel
knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as these
are liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. When silver
fish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought, good electro-plated
ones answer very well, and are inexpensive.