[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—½ lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of
beef suet, pepper and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg,
bread-crumbs, made gravy. _Mode._—Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely;
mix well together, and add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and
roll into sausages; cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in
hot dripping of a nice brown. Serve in a dish with made gravy poured
round them, and a little in a tureen. _Time._—¼ hour to fry the
sausages. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6_d._ _Seasonable_ at
any time.
DRAUGHT for Summer.
_Ingredients._—The juice of 1 lemon, a tumblerful of cold water,
pounded sugar to taste, ½ small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
_Mode._—Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain, and add it to the
water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When
well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the mixture is
in an effervescing state.
DRINK, Pleasant, for Warm Weather.
_Ingredients._—To every ½ pint of good ale allow 1 bottle of ginger
beer. _Mode._—For this beverage the ginger beer must be in an
effervescing state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mix
them together, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing and
wholesome, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does not
deteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when taken
fresh.
DRIPPING, to Clarify.
Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything except
game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying nearly as
well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and will remain good
some time. To clarify it put the dripping into a basin, pour over it
boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away the impurities.
Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will settle at
the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it away in jars
or basins for use.
* * * * *
=Another Way.=—Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it
boil for a few minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it
well. Let it stand to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of
muslin into jars for use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for
cooking purposes, as, with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a
tallowy taste and smell.
DUCK, Hashed.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast duck,
rather more than 1 pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of
butter, thickening of butter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, ½
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice,
½ glass of port wine. _Mode._—Cut the duck into nice joints, and put
the trimmings into a stewpan; slice and fry the onion in a little
butter; add these to the trimmings, pour in the above proportion of
weak stock or water, and stew gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor,
thicken it with butter and flour, season with salt and cayenne, and
add the remaining ingredients; boil it up and skim well; lay in the
pieces of duck, and let them get thoroughly hot through by the side of
the fire, but do not allow them to boil: they should soak in the gravy
for about ½ hour. Garnish with sippets of toasted bread. The hash may
be made richer by using a stronger and more highly-flavoured gravy; a
little spice or pounded mace may also be added, when their flavour is
liked. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of cold duck, 4_d._
_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from May to August.
DUCKS, Roast.
_Ingredients._—A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing; a little
flour. _Choosing and Trussing._—Choose ducks with plump bellies, and
with thick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet
on, which should be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned
up close to the legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg,
after having drawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump
up the breast, passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the
heads and necks, and the pinions at the first joint; bring these
close to the sides, twist the feet round, and truss them at the back
of the bird. After the duck is stuffed, both ends should be secured
with string, so as to keep in the seasoning. _Mode._—To insure ducks
being tender, never dress them the same day they are killed; and, if
the weather permits, they should hang a day or two. Make a stuffing of
sage and onion sufficient for one duck, and leave the other unseasoned,
as the flavour is not liked by everybody. Put them down to a brisk
clear fire, and keep them well basted the whole of the time they
are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge them lightly with
flour, to make them froth and look plump; and when the steam draws
towards the fire, send them to table hot and quickly, with a good
brown gravy poured _round_, but not _over_ the ducks, and a little of
the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should invariably
accompany this dish. _Time._—Full-grown ducks from ¾ to 1 hour;
ducklings from 25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, from 2_s._ 3_d._ to
2_s._ 6_d._ each. _Sufficient._—A couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable._—Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November to
February.
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
DUCK, Roast, to carve.
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.]
No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as do
game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the
anatomy of the bird in order to place the knife at exactly the proper
point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a carver’s
powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour of those
in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dish may
eventuate in the placing of a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the
right or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assist
those who are unacquainted with the “gentle art of carving,” and also
those who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing the
rules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked illustrations
of each dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of
the uninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like
a fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side;
but in cases where the duckling is very small, it will be as well not
to separate the leg from the wing, as they will not then form too large
a portion for a single serving. After the legs and wings are disposed
of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved in the same manner as
a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced, as ducklings are
tender, and the joints are easily broken by a little gentle forcing,
or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is a large bird,
the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose, that is,
by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by the
lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close to
the wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone.
If more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the
breast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as is
described in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked,
that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of
a fowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, the
thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than
in a chicken; this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carver
should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; and
in order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as
shown by the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the “apron,” and the
spoon inserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan,
when a couple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other
without, stuffing.) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said
that “the wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer” are severally the
best portions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, in
trussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone
are here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be
when cut off.
_Note._—Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, and
served with the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, do not
omit apple sauce.
DUCK AND PEAS, Stewed.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast duck,
2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, 2 pints of thin gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions,
3 sprigs of parsley, 3 cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne
and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. _Mode._—Put the
butter into a stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, lay them in with
the slices of lean ham or bacon; make it brown, then dredge in a
tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding the gravy.
Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it has simmered
for ¼ hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew gently for about
½ hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; take out the duck, place
it round the dish, and the peas in the middle. _Time._—¾ hour. _Average
cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1_s._ _Seasonable_ from June to
August.
DUCK AND PEAS, Stewed.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast duck, ½
pint of good gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, ½ teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of butter rolled in
flour, 1½ pint of green peas. _Mode._—Cut up the duck into joints,
lay it in the gravy, and add a seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced
lemon-peel; let this gradually warm through, but not boil. Throw the
peas into boiling water slightly salted, and boil them rapidly until
tender. Drain them, stir in the pounded sugar, and the butter rolled in
flour; shake them over the fire for two or three minutes, and serve in
the centre of the dish, with the duck laid round. _Time._—15 minutes to
boil the peas, when they are full grown. _Average cost_, exclusive of
the cold duck, 10_d._ _Seasonable_ from June to August.
DUCK, Stewed, in Turnips.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold duck, ½ pint
of good gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of
savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips weighed after
being peeled, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Cut
up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, and herbs, and put
them with the duck into the gravy. Cut about 1 lb. of turnips into ½
inch squares, put the butter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite
tender, which will be in about ½ hour, or rather more; season with
pepper and salt, and serve on the centre of the dish, with the duck,
&c., laid round. _Time._—Rather more than ½ hour to stew the turnips.
_Average cost_, exclusive of cold duck, 1_s._ _Seasonable_ from
November to February.
DUCK, to Ragoût a whole.
_Ingredients._—1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good beef
gravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme,
thickening of butter and flour. _Mode._—After having emptied and singed
the duck, season it inside with pepper and salt, and truss it. Roast
it before a clear fire for about 20 minutes, and let it acquire a nice
brown colour. Put it into a stewpan with sufficient well-seasoned beef
gravy to cover it; slice and fry the onions, and add these, with the
sage-leaves and lemon thyme, both of which should be finely minced, to
the stock. Simmer gently until the duck is tender; strain, skim, and
thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour; boil it up, pour over
the duck, and serve. When in season, about 1½ pint of young green peas,
boiled separately, and put in the ragoût, very much improve this dish.
_Time._—20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it. _Average
cost_, from 2_s._ 3_d._ to 2_s._ 6_d._ each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5
persons. _Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from April
to August.
DUCK, Wild, Hashed.
_Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good
brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 1 glass of claret,
salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or
Seville orange-juice. _Mode._—Cut the remains of the duck into neat
joints, put them into a stewpan, with all the above ingredients; let
them get gradually hot by the side of the fire, and occasionally stir
the contents; when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish
with sippets of toasted bread. _Time._—About ¼ hour. _Seasonable_ from
November to February.
DUCK, Wild, Ragoût of.
_Ingredients._—2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock (_see_ STOCK),
1 glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of ½
lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. _Mode._—Ducks that have been dressed
and left from the preceding day will answer for this dish. Cut them
into joints, reserve the legs, wings, and breasts until wanted; put
the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots and stock, and let them
simmer for about ½ hour, and strain the gravy. Put the butter into a
stewpan; when melted, dredge in a little flour, and pour in the gravy
made from the bones; give it one boil, and strain it again; add the
wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay in the pieces of duck, and let the
whole gradually warm through, but do not allow it to boil, or the duck
will be hard. The gravy should not be too thick, and should be very
highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great improvement
to this dish. _Time._—About ½ hour to make the gravy; ¼ hour for the
duck gradually to warm through. _Seasonable_ from November to February.
DUCK, Wild, Roast.
_Ingredients._—Wild duck, flour, butter. _Mode._—Carefully pluck and
draw them; cut off the heads close to the necks, leaving sufficient
skin to turn over, and do not cut off the feet; some twist each leg
at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each side of the breast; others
truss them as shown in our illustration. Roast the birds before a
quick fire, and, when they are first put down, let them remain for 5
minutes without basting (this will keep the gravy in); afterwards baste
plentifully with butter, and a few minutes before serving dredge them
lightly with flour; baste well, and send them to table nicely frothed,
and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds will lose their flavour.
Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange gravy, and send to table
with them a cut lemon. To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl
sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes with hot water to which
have been added an onion and a little salt; then take away the pan, and
baste with butter. _Time._—When liked under-dressed, 20 to 25 minutes;
well done, 25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 4_s._ to 5_s._ the couple.
[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.]
DUCK, Wild, to Carve.
As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a dish to
stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes are
not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of each
which are considered the best flavoured and the primest. Of wild fowl,
the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and slices are
cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from 1 to 2; if
necessary, the leg and the wing can be taken off by passing the knife
from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described for
carving boiled fowl.
[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]
DUMPLINGS, Sussex, or Hard.
_Ingredients._—1 lb. of flour, ½ pint of water, ½ saltspoonful of
salt. _Mode._—Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste,
previously adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round
dumplings; drop them into boiling water, and boil from ½ to ¾ hour.
They maybe served with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case, they
may be cooked with the meat, but should be dropped into the water when
it is quite boiling. _Time._—½ to ¾ hour. _Sufficient_ for 10 or 12
dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.