_Ingredients._—1 quart of calf’s-feet stock, ½ lb. sugar, ½ pint of
sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5 eggs, the rind
and juice of 2 lemons, ½ oz. of isinglass. _Mode._—Prepare the stock as
directed in recipe for stock, taking care to leave the sediment, and
to remove all the fat from the surface. Put it into a saucepan cold,
without clarifying it; add the remaining ingredients, and stir them
well together before the saucepan is placed on the fire. Then simmer
the mixture gently for ¼ hour, _but do not stir it after it begins to
warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water, boil for another 5 minutes,
and keep the saucepan covered by the side of the fire for about ½
hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering, the head or scum
may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular attention must
be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the slightest degree
after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when the jelly begins
to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer for turning out.
Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a stand, or the
back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin underneath it, and
run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly clear the first
time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is obtained.
Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour in the
jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand, surround
the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be firmer when
turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which to put the
moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by her jellies
being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a great deal
of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds in hot
water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on the
top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip out
easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled
high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter
or tin for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition
being often spoiled by using the latter. To make this jelly more
economically, raisin wine may be substituted for the sherry and brandy,
and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of calf’s feet. _Time._—20
minutes to simmer the jelly, ½ hour to stand covered. _Average cost,_
reckoning the feet at 6_d._ each, 5_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ to fill two
1½-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]
_Note._—As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make
the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other
ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.
CALF’S HEAD à la Maître d’Hôtel.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a cold calf’s head,
rather more than ½ pint of maître d’hôtel sauce. _Mode._—Make the sauce
by the given recipe, and have it sufficiently thick that it may nicely
cover the meat; remove the bones from the head, and cut the meat into
neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the meat; _gradually_ warm
it through, and, after it boils up, let it simmer very gently for 5
minutes, and serve. _Time._—Rather more than 1½ hour. _Average cost_,
exclusive of the meat, 1_s._ 2_d._ _Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S HEAD, Boiled (with the Skin on).
_Ingredients._—Calf’s head, boiling water, bread-crumbs, 1 large bunch
of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls
of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, 2 or 3 grains of
cayenne. _Mode._—Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by
the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the
ear, and with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not
come off easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly
clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain,
which soak for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to
soak for a few minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a
stewpan, into which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring
it gradually to boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which
assists to throw it up. Simmer it very gently from 2½ to 3 hours, and
when nearly done, boil the brains for ¼ hour; skin and chop them, not
too finely, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been
previously scalded. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains,
parsley, &c., into about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the
lemon-juice and cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire.
Take up the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish
with the brains round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread-crumbs
mixed with a little minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and
serve with a tureen of parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon,
ham, or pickled pork as an accompaniment. _Time._—2½ to 3 hours.
_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3_s._ to 7_s._ 6_d._
_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S HEAD, Boiled (without the Skin).
_Ingredients._—Calf’s head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of
melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. _Mode._—After the head has been
thoroughly cleaned, and the brains removed, soak it in warm water to
blanch it. Lay the brains also into warm water to soak, and let them
remain for about an hour. Put the head into a stewpan, with sufficient
cold water to cover it, and, when it boils, add a little salt; take off
every particle of scum as it rises, and boil the head until perfectly
tender. Boil the brains, chop them, and mix with them melted butter,
minced parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice in the above proportion.
Take up the head, skin the tongue, and put it on a small dish with
the brains round it. Have ready some parsley and butter, smother the
head with it, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Bacon, ham,
pickled pork, or a pig’s cheek, are indispensable with calf s head. The
brains are sometimes chopped with hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a
little Béchamel or white sauce. _Time._—From 1½ to 2¼ hours. _Average
cost,_ according to the season, from 3_s._ to 5_s._ _Sufficient_ for 6
or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
[Illustration: CALF’S HEAD.]
[Illustration: HALF A CALF’S HEAD.]
_Note._—The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it
makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c.
Half a calf’s head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a
more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the
same manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding
recipe.
CALF’S HEAD, Collared.
_Ingredients._—A calf’s head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4
blades of pounded mace, ½ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper
to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.
_Mode._—Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and
with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide
the head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the
bones, which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten
it on the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a
layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and
put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between
each layer; roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as
possible. Boil it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot,
place a heavy weight on the top, the same as for other collared meats.
Let it remain till cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will
be ready to serve. _Time._—Altogether, 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5_s._
to 7_s._ each. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S HEAD, Fricasseed (an Entrée).
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a boiled calf’s
head, 1½ pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 1 onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white
pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, the; yolks of 2 eggs,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls. _Mode._—Remove all
the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice square pieces. Put
1½ pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan, with mace,
onions, herbs, and seasoning in the above proportion: let this simmer
gently for ¾ hour, then strain it and put in the meat. When quite hot
through, thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, and,
just before dishing the fricassee, put in the beaten yolks of eggs, and
lemon-juice; but be particular, after these two latter ingredients are
added, that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle. Garnish with
forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled bacon. To insure the sauce
being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the meat first, and then to add
the eggs to the gravy: when these are set, the sauce may be poured over
the meat. _Time._—Altogether, 1¼ hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the
meat, 6_d._
CALF’S HEAD, Hashed.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a cold boiled calf’s
head, 1 quart of the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury
herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded
mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather
more than 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls. _Mode._—Cut the
meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan
with the above proportion of liquor that the head was boiled in. Add a
bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, and
2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour, or until the
gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean stewpan, thicken
it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring of sherry,
lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season with pepper,
salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it _gradually_ warm
through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_ minutes. Garnish the
dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon rolled and toasted,
placed alternately, and send it to table very hot. _Time._—Altogether
1½ hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6_d._
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S HEAD, Moulded.
[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a calf’s head, some
thin slices of ham or bacon, 6 or 8 eggs boiled hard, 1 dessertspoonful
of salt, pepper, mixed spice, and parsley, ½ pint of good white gravy.
_Mode._—Cut the head into thin slices. Butter a tin mould, cut the
yolks of eggs in half, and put some of them round the tin; sprinkle
some of the parsley, spice, &c., over it; then put in the head and
the bacon in layers, adding occasionally more eggs and spice till the
whole of the head is used. Pour in the gravy, cover the top with a thin
paste of flour and water, and bake ¾ of an hour. Take off the paste,
and, when cold, turn it out. _Time._—From ¾ to 1 hour to bake the
preparation. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S HEAD, to Carve.
This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is put
before a carver for the first time; there is not much real difficulty
in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively examined,
and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its bumps,
good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down to
the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each of
these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat sweetbread,
cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh round,
are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at the
table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone being
removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate, which
is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate dish
there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should be
asked to take some of these.
[Illustration: CALF’S HEAD.]
CALF’S LIVER, aux Fines Herbes and Sauce Piquante.
_Ingredients._—A calf’s liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs,
including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
pepper and salt to taste, ¼ pint water. _Mode._—Procure a calf’s liver
as white as possible, and cut it into slices of a good and equal
shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a good colour in a little
butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, which keep hot before
the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in the frying-pan with a
little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently until
the herbs are done, and pour over the liver. _Time._—According to the
thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 10_d._
per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to
October.