III.

_LOCAL MEANS OF CONVEYANCE._

I HAPPEN to have kept the billet of a Parisian cabman, on which I find

the number is 8973. I believe I have seen _voitures_ in Paris bearing a

number higher than 10,000. In all probability, however, there is not a

licensed carriage to represent each unit of this apparent grand total.

When, after many adventures and a long struggle, old age overtakes the

_voiture_, and a sudden jolt sends it to smash, a pious regard may

preserve the number to its shade; while the new vehicle, its successor,

may just be added on to the tail of the list. But be this as it may,

there is no lack of carriages of all sorts in all Continental towns.

* * * * *

Elegant private equipages are to be seen in Paris and other parts of

France. These are often jobbed by English people. At Nice the charge

for a carriage, horses, and man is £30 per month. But Nice is a

notoriously expensive place, and I doubt not that in other towns of

France the charge is greatly less. Dr. Johnson (p. 67) states that

carriages in Pau were to be had, with pair of horses and driver, at £10

to £12 per month. His book, however, was written in 1857, and possibly

the charge since that time has been raised.

But it is among the Italians, I think, that the desire appears more

manifested for a good turn–out. In such large towns as Genoa, Rome,

or Naples, one sees hundreds of beautiful carriages and fine horses.

In fact, it would appear that in Italy every woman aspiring to be

considered a lady must, at whatever sacrifice of other comforts,

drive her carriage and pair with liveried coachman and man–servant.

The Italians seem to consider that it is not _comme il faut_ for a

lady to be seen walking,—for which, indeed, the climate is not much

suited,—and they are rather surprised at observing English ladies going

so much about on their own feet. The public vehicles are also of so

inferior a description, that one can scarcely wonder at a resident lady

being ashamed to be seen in them. I fancy, too, that the expense is

not so great as with ourselves. Men–servants’ wages must certainly be

considerably less, and crops of hay are so abundant, while agricultural

labour is so miserably recompensed that the expense of feeding is, no

doubt, also much less than at home. Moreover, horse flesh would appear

to be greatly cheaper in Italy than with ourselves. At Rome I asked

the driver of the carriage in which we went to Tivoli what might be

the cost of such a pair of horses as he was driving. They were poor

hacks, although they went well. He said about 400 francs, or about £16.

I pointed to a handsome pair of horses standing in a private carriage

upon one of the streets of Rome, and asked him what they would cost. He

said from 1000 to 2000 francs, or from £40 to £80. If this information

can be relied on, horse flesh must be cheap enough in Italy. I am not

sufficiently skilled in the subject to say whether the breeds are equal

to our own, though I doubt it; but they look very handsome animals, and

the Italians are careful to allow their tails to grow so as often even

to sweep the ground; and in this way the natural grace and beauty of

the horse is preserved, while it retains the protection it has received

from nature against the attacks of flies, which are a great source of

torment in some places.

The cart horses in France are sometimes fine, strong–looking beasts,

but are scarcely equal to the more powerful breeds of Britain, although

I think they are made to draw heavier loads; and these poor horses do

discharge their duty most heroically in spite of the brutal treatment

they often receive.

* * * * *

But present observation has rather to do with cabs or carriages which

ply for hire.

In France, great variety of carriage is to be had. In such places as

Biarritz, Nice, or Mentone, there are many elegant landaus having

nearly all the appearance of private carriages, and, no doubt, most

of them have been quite recently in private occupation. They are kept

in good order and freshly painted, and are the best class. From them

there is a descent to various kinds of smaller and inferior _voitures_.

The close kind is generally of a very shaky, antiquated construction;

although in some places, such as Lyons and Cannes, there is a kind of

brougham plying for hire of a better quality, narrow and confined,

holding two only, and even two with a squeeze, although some of them

(to be seen in Paris) have also a folding down seat for a child. Other

carriages have a hood. In Paris, where people are exposed to sudden

showers of rain, the one–horse open carriages have an extraordinary

huge kind of hood which can be promptly raised, but when turned over,

falls so low as almost to extinguish the occupant and to exclude his

view; but even then, and with a leathern apron drawn up over the knees,

I have found in a storm that adequate protection against rain is not

secured. One of the nicest of light vehicles in use is a kind of basket

carriage, seated for four, or for two with a _vis–à–vis_ folding down

seat for one or for two more behind the box, the box seat sometimes

holding a fifth, and occasionally there is a light miniature rumble

behind holding another. These are drawn for the most part by a pair

of smart horses, remarkably small, akin to the active little Exmoor

ponies.

The horses always go most willingly, and the drivers delight in urging

them at top speed. Regardless of consequences, they dash down a hill in

a way which would make an English coachy’s hair stand on end, and like

a cannon ball through a crowd, without halting or swerving from their

course, expecting the crowd to scatter right and left to make way for

them. This is all done to the noise of a horrid ear–splitting cracking

of the whip. The driver cracks his whip, and considers that having done

so, he is discharged of responsibility, and that it is the pedestrian’s

own fault if he be run over; just as a golfer considers that when he

has cried ‘faar’ before striking his ball, it is the fault of the

person struck that he has not got promptly enough out of the way. This

cracking of the whip goes on incessantly while the man is with his

horse, and even when without, and seems indulged in most frequently

from a boyish love of making the odious noise.

There is great variety in these cracks. The crack of the heavy carter’s

whip differs from that of the coachman’s lighter one. There is the

single crack, the double or back and fore crack, and the multiple

crack, this last being like the dancing noise produced by those

alarming crackers placed by mischievous urchins on a Queen’s Birthday

night under the garments of terrified young women. There is the

encouraging crack, supposed to cheer the horse on his way; the crack

direct, when the driver applies the lash; the practising crack, when he

practises for perfection in this ravishing art; the thoughtless crack,

when done in vacancy from mere force of habit; the warning crack, when

he wishes pedestrians to yield the smooth part of the road, that he may

avoid the rough, or simply that he, the dominant power, may maintain

majestically his straight undeviating course; the angry crack, when

the supposed humble pedestrian, being an Englishman, disregards the

warning crack, thinking that he has as good a right or a better to

pursue his way, there being room enough to pass by making a slight

deviation from the straight; the annunciating crack, particularly

affected by town omnibuses to intimate their approach; and the crack

jubilant, employed by the hotel omnibuses when, having bagged a man,

the driver thus expends all his bottled–up rapture and announces the

joyful event on nearing the door of his hotel. The crack may indicate

a cracked driver or a crack one, according as it is the passers–by

or the driver himself who forms the opinion, and it is an obviously

enviable accomplishment which many can manage with their left hand. The

poor horses are expected to disregard all cracks but the crack direct,

and to appearance do so; but I can’t help thinking that the horrid din

is to the animal very much what the buzz of the mosquito is to man,

not a _malum in se_, but a sound which proclaims the existence of a

torment which at any moment may descend upon its hide. The singular

thing, too, is that this noise does not seem to disturb the equanimity

either of the driver’s own horse or of the other passing horses. With

our own high–spirited horses, the mere wag of the whip will make them

frantic, and I believe there would be no holding in English horses in a

Continental town. Whether it be that the foreign horses are not so high

metalled, or get used to the noise, as horses do to passing trains, I

do not know, but to the walkers along the streets it is an intolerable

nuisance; nor is it altogether without its dangers, as on one occasion

a lady of our party all but got her eye struck by a flying lash. The

same sort of cracking goes on in Italy; but I noticed that in Florence

and Rome, and particularly the latter city, the drivers did it very

seldom. Probably to do so was against some police regulation, as from

the large number of vehicles with which the streets of Rome are filled,

the noise would be deafening, and might even be dangerous.

* * * * *

I was at first inclined to think that the Italian coachmen are kinder

to their horses than the French or Swiss. It was long ere I saw an

Italian behaving savagely to his horse; but I have observed it, and

been informed by others of the cruel treatment they have seen practised

by Italians. I have seen men behaving most savagely to their horses

in France and Switzerland. For example, I have frequently seen a

carter, or man in charge of a horse or donkey, when he wished it to

move on, instead of quietly speaking to it, as even an English carter

would, take the butt end of his heavy whip and lay heavily on the

poor animal’s back, or even give it a violent kick. The carters lade

their carts very heavily, and often—I might even say always—beyond the

strength of the horse. I have observed a poor horse struggling with all

his might to pull the improper load up a hill, the carter encouraging

it by the whip all the time. Several times I could not resist speaking

to the men about their conduct. On one occasion, at Cannes, I saw a

horse, after having struggled to the utmost of his strength with a

load twice as heavy as it ought to have been (the bystanders only

looking on and giving it no aid), and remaining willing but helpless

to do more, when the carter took the narrow end of his heavy whip,

and came down twice with his whole force with the heavy–loaded butt

end on his horse’s head. Ere he could repeat the villanous stroke, I

rushed forward, arrested his hand, and told him, in the best French I

could muster, what a brute I thought him to be. But it is not easy to

give vent to one’s indignation in a foreign tongue. The fellow ought

to have been prosecuted, and there does exist in France a Society for

the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals; but policemen as well as others,

I suspect, are as callous to such offences as our own policemen are

to the destruction by boys of our meadow or park trees. Cruelty to

a horse, however, often consists in little aggravating acts which a

prosecution might fail to reach. I have often seen a coachman waiting

at a stand, or at a door, and, having idle hands, mischievously proceed

to touch up his horses for doing nothing—in short, to vent his own

irritation at his idleness upon the poor dumb animals; and then, when

they began to caper because of the whip, the whip was again applied

because of the caper. However, I am afraid this is an evil habit which

is not seldom to be witnessed in our own country. Another method

abroad of torturing the horse is by the use of a bearing rein strapped

up to the high and heavy saddle or collar borne by the cart horses,

which from its weight is also of itself an infliction. But so long as

Liverpool dray horses are so tortured, we cannot reasonably complain

of bearing reins as a foreign peculiarity. A more extraordinary and

hardly credible kind of torture a lady told me she had witnessed was

in the passing of a strap or rope through the skin of the horse,

compelling him to move on to avoid or lessen the pain so produced. I

would fain believe she had been mistaken, but she was one on whose

relation I could rely, and whose capacity for observing could scarcely

be questioned.

* * * * *

The Italian carriages for hire are very inferior to the French. At

Naples they are of the roughest possible kind—open little phaetons made

of coarse wood, at some remote period having enjoyed a coat of paint,

and exhibiting a barely decent seat for two, and a little folding seat

for a third. The Roman carriages are similarly constructed, but a

shade better. The drivers in Naples and its vicinity are, as regards

person and clothes, the dirtiest–looking ragamuffins. One shrinks to

come in contact with them. In Rome, on the other hand, the drivers are

generally a respectable–looking class, and they wear a black glazed hat

and red cloth waistcoat. The most stylish of coachmen we have seen are

those at Biarritz, where they frequently mount a grand blue broidered

jacket with scarlet facings; but this grandeur has to be paid for.

* * * * *

At Castellamare and the district round about in the Bay of Naples, and

elsewhere in the south of Italy, the horses’ heads are decorated with

long pheasant feathers, which give them a jaunty look; while in most

places the generality of horses have fastened to their collars a string

of small bells which keep a continual lively jingle,—genial, doubtless,

to the animals,—and are as pleasant as the cracking of whips is odious.

About Sorrento, the carriages are often drawn by three horses abreast,

three being charged the same as for two. It seems a waste of power, the

only explanation given for which was that the horses are not strong.

Whatever may be the case in this respect, the horses in Italy always go

with the greatest spirit, never seeming to require the lash. I fancy

that the jingle of the bells operates as a stimulant. It was very

cheery, sitting in our parlour at Sorrento, to hear every now and then

the jingle of the bells announcing an arrival or a departure.

* * * * *

Carriage fares for drives about town are moderate almost everywhere.

They are more in France than in Italy. Bædeker generally states in his

guide–books what the fares are at each town. Although on the whole

correct, they are not always to be relied on, probably because of

alterations on the tariffs. Sometimes a board or bill of the tariffs is

hung up in the carriage, and in some places, such as Paris, the driver

is obliged to give the hirer his number on a ticket which specifies the

fares. In Paris a one–horse carriage is charged 1·85 per course and

2·50 per hour during the day, and 2·50 and 3 francs respectively during

_nuit_, or the hours of darkness. A little more is charged if the

_voiture_ be taken from the _remise_, that is, the stables. There do

not appear to be two–horse carriages plying for hire upon the streets

of Paris. When one is wanted, it must be sent for to the stables, and I

believe that the charge is heavy. Fares in Paris, however, are higher

than in the provinces. At Lyons the fare per course is 1·25; if taken

by the hour, it is only 1½ francs per hour in the city, and the same

at Pau, but at Mentone and elsewhere fares are rather more. A large

carriage with two horses is at Mentone 1·75 per course and 3·50 per

hour during the day, and 2 francs and 3·75 respectively during _nuit_.

A one–horse carriage is 1·25 per course and 2·50 per hour during the

day, and 25 centimes more after dark. If, however, one has to ascend

a height in a town, he is sure to have to pay extra. For example, we

were charged extra for ascending Fourvières at Lyons, and the Chateau

at Nice, although driving per hour. If there be more than a single

place to go to, it is always cheaper to take the carriage by the hour.

If when driving by the course a stoppage be made by the way, it is not

unusual to charge as for two courses. At the same time, Continental

drivers are quite up to the trick of English coachmen, when put upon

hour–driving, of crawling along. We were somewhat amused at Sorrento

(where the horses are invariably put upon full speed), upon taking a

carriage by the hour to Massa, a few miles off, to see how the man

leisurely walked his horse the whole way. Nor, in this instance, did we

grudge it; because the scenery was so lovely that we had full time to

enjoy it, and the rapid whisking through it, which otherwise would have

taken place, would have given us but a passing glimpse.

In Italy the cab fares are exceedingly moderate. For instance, at

Genoa, Florence, and Rome, the drive per course is only 80 centessimi

(8d.). At Rome, for every person beyond two, 20 centimes (2d.)

additional is payable. The charge per hour is 1·50. At Naples, fares

are even more moderate. The course, according to Bædeker, is 60

centimes per hour, 1·40 the first hour and 50 centimes every half–hour

after; but we found the actual tariff was slightly more.

One requires to be careful, especially in Italy, about driving per hour

in a town, not to go unnecessarily beyond its bounds, as when this is

done the tariff is no longer binding, and the fare may be completely

at the mercy of the driver. Thus, at Florence, we had on one occasion

taken a carriage by the hour, and after driving about for some time,

went to Fiesole, which lies beyond the bounds. When we came to settle

with our driver, he charged us three or four francs additional on this

account. At Naples, where one may very easily exceed the bounds, I was

amused at the pertinacity of a driver in suggesting to go to places

just beyond the city; but as I had made myself acquainted with its

limits, and had no wish at that time to go to the places he named, I

declined. The way to adopt when designing to go beyond the bounds is,

as we arranged always at Rome, to make an express bargain that the

charge by time should cover wherever we went.

* * * * *

It is a custom on the part of the drivers, notwithstanding their fares

are fixed or agreed upon, to expect over and above what they call in

France and Switzerland a _pour boire_, and in Italy _buono manu_.

This is a provoking addition to a regulated fare. No doubt it is left

in the discretion of the traveller, and he may give as much as he

pleases, although it is said that in Italy the giving of too much is

often regarded as symptomatic that the giver is soft and may fairly be

asked for more. But the giving of too little will at once meet with a

remonstrance. It is frequently a difficulty to know exactly what it

should be. It is expected as a matter of right by the French coachman;

it is begged for by the Italians. The best course is always to arrange,

in the case of a special drive, that the charge bargained for shall

include everything, as the French express it _tout compris_; and if

you are pleased with the man’s attention, any gratuity over and above

will be unexpected. But in Italy, even although you have arranged upon

the footing of _tutti compressi_, the driver will sometimes beg for a

_buono manu_. So accustomed are they to this description of beggary,

that I have seen a coachman, before he even knew what I had put into

his hand (which was a half franc more than his fare upon a short ride

upon the footing of _tutti compressi_), beg for a _buono manu_.

The fares which are charged for going to given places beyond a town,

are often out of all proportion to the fares within town—_i.e._, if

charged according to the time occupied, they would be greatly in excess

of a time charge. It is difficult to understand a good reason for

this, as in town they might be standing long idle for chance fares;

while going to a given place, occupying so many hours, is just so much

constant employment. Nor is it constant driving, because nobody goes

to see a place without stopping at it for some time, and perhaps even

making other stoppages by the way. It is just a custom to expect a

‘fat job’ out of such a drive. One owes it no less to oneself than to

those who come after, not to give too much, and really sometimes the

fares asked are exorbitant. For instance, when we wanted a carriage to

go from Interlachen to Chateau d’Œx (which we accomplished in twelve

hours, stopping by the way from two to three hours for dinner, and

with several other stoppages of same duration, and going at a rate

seldom exceeding five miles per hour), one man wanted 150 francs,

or £6; others, 100 francs. I ultimately arranged with a man for 90

francs, with a _pour boire_, which came to 5 francs more. So little

fatigued were his horses, that they were driven back to Interlachen

next morning, and in all probability a return fare was obtained for at

all events part of the way. The sum charged for these journeys includes

the feeding of man and horses, and all hotel charges in connection with

the vehicle, which are borne by the owner of the carriage, and cost him

little, although, were they paid by the traveller, a large addition

would be made to the expense—a method of arrangement which ought to be

universal. The fares are computed by distance on some odd and unequal

principle. I was told afterwards that if we had taken the boat on Lake

Thun to Spiez, or about an hour’s distance from Interlachen, I could

have had a carriage from Spiez to Chateau d’Œx for about one–half what

I paid from Interlachen.

It is principally at the Swiss Passes, however, that the exorbitant

fares are demanded. For example, at Bellagio, the hotel charge for

a carriage and pair from Colico to Coire, where there is a railway

to Zürich, is 200 francs; 300 francs for three horses, without which

it is hardly possible to ascend the mountains; and 380 francs for

four horses. The journey involves—the first day, about three hours’

travelling by coach from Colico to Chiavenna, where we slept; ten hours

the second day, ascending by zig–zags to the top of the mountain,

and then down to Splugen, and halting two or three hours out of the

ten at Campo Dolcino for rest and lunch; and the third day, starting

from Splugen at 8 A.M., getting by a gentle descent through the Via

Mala, and stopping two or three hours at Thusis for lunch, we reached

Coire about 4 o’clock, or eight hours altogether. As I knew that

the fares asked were excessive, I went by steamboat to Colico a day

previous to our leaving, and readily arranged, after some bargaining,

for an excellent carriage and good pair of horses, with a third for

the mountains (we actually had four part of the way) for 150 francs,

with the inevitable _buono manu_. When we reached Splugen, finding

that a gentleman who accompanied us was going to Ragatz, I proposed

we should go there too, instead of proceeding from Coire to Zürich by

railway. Our friend unfortunately spoke about it to the landlord, who

immediately impressed on our coachman, who was also the proprietor of

the carriage, that the proper fare for the additional distance was

35 francs, a distance which I afterwards found took us less than two

hours to accomplish (it was down hill most of the way). I refused to

give such a figure for the addition to our drive, as we could have gone

by rail for a few francs; but on nearing Coire, I spoke to the driver

and arranged to give him 30 francs additional, inclusive of the _buono

manu_, for the whole journey, which we thought would require to be from

12 to 15 francs. It was too much, but it saved stopping an hour at

Coire for a train and shifting our luggage. So confirmed, however, is

the habit of asking a _buono manu_, that, in the face of my express

arrangement after paying the man his 180 francs, he had the assurance

to ask me for it.

* * * * *

It is always best, on going a long drive, to make a very express and

explicit arrangement, and in Italy to make it in writing, so that there

may be no room for mistake or dispute; and it is also well to see

the carriage and horses you are to have, and to make sure the horses

are properly shod. Generally, it is better to arrange for a carriage

oneself. For instance, the landlord of our hotel at Castellamare said

the charge for a carriage to Pompeii would be 12 or 15 francs. I

arranged for one for 8 francs. At the same place, his charge was 10

francs to Sorrento, exclusive of _buono manu_, which would be 2 francs

more. As I knew I could easily get a carriage for less, I told him I

would not give more than 8 francs, with _buono manu_, and the carriage

was at once sent for; but even this was more than the fare mentioned

in Bædeker (6 francs). On return from Sorrento, we paid only 8 francs

altogether, the regular charge, the landlady of the Tramontano, a

clever and attentive Irishwoman, telling us that she made it an express

arrangement with the coachman, adding, ‘What was the sense of paying

more, when we had arranged for a given sum?’ In going any distance, it

is always well to make inquiry of those who may know something on the

subject as to what the fares ought to be, and as to the route.

Sometimes hotelkeepers make such excessive demands as practically to

be prohibitive. Thus at Baveno we found the charge for a carriage and

pair for a simple drive to be 8 francs the first hour and 5 francs for

each hour thereafter. At Chateau d’Œx, in other respects one of the

cheapest places we have visited, we were told by some of the young

people at the hotel, that, wishing to go one evening to have a dance at

a neighbouring pension in the village, not an eighth of a mile distant,

but on an acclivity, the hotelkeeper asked for the double drive no

less than 20 francs. They therefore gave up the idea of going. The only

possible excuse for this exorbitant demand might be, that the road was

rough for night driving, but carrying a couple of lamps would have put

that all right.

* * * * *

Fares everywhere have, however, been increased of late years. Speaking

from recollection, I think that at Interlachen, for a drive which is

now charged 25 francs, we were charged fifteen years previously only 15

to 18 francs, and other charges in proportion.

* * * * *

It used to be considered that for four persons it was at least as cheap

to take a carriage as to pay for four places in a diligence. If this

was so formerly, it is no longer so, as it is less expensive to go by

diligence. I imagine that the fares by diligence either have not been

increased, or have been only slightly raised. We paid for the journey

from Lucerne to Interlachen, inclusive of steamboats on the lakes

of Lucerne and Brienz, 13 francs 90 centimes each for inside places

and cabin, the journey taking 10 hours; from Chateau d’Œx to Aigle,

occupying about 4½ hours of mountain travelling, 8 francs 25 centimes.

In either case it would have cost us considerably more to have hired.

Bædeker mentions the diligence fares from Coire to Colico to be for

_coupé_ 27 francs 90 centimes, and for _intérieur_ 24·50; so that for

four passengers travelling by diligence, the fare would not exceed

112 francs; for six passengers, 168 francs, instead of the 300 or 380

francs demanded by the hotels, which no doubt affords them a heavy

profit. Travelling by diligence is, however, not always desirable,

as often part of the journey may have to be performed during night,

or at uncomfortable hours. Diligences are now nearly driven off the

field by the railways, except in such countries as Switzerland. The

Swiss _Indicateur_ contains a long list of the diligence routes and

their time bills, and _Continental Bradshaw_ furnishes a still longer

list under the head, ‘Diligences, Post and Mail Coaches, Germany,

Switzerland, and North Italy,’ with, in most cases, the fare payable.

* * * * *

I do not think that steamboat travelling is cheap—_e.g._, we paid 7

francs each on the Lake of Geneva from Montreux to Geneva, taking three

hours. On Lake Como the fare from Bellagio to Como, about two hours,

was 2 francs 80 centimes, or about 5s. there and back. From Sorrento

to Capri and back was 5 francs. I received a curious answer from the

captain of the steamboat to Capri to my question what would be the

fare to go from Sorrento to Naples; he replied, ‘Whatever you please.’

We were informed at Sorrento that if one of the two rival boats which

usually go from Naples to Capri do not sail, the passengers are in

the power of the boat which does sail, and may be asked for what the

captain pleases, which is sure to be something different from what

pleases the passenger.

The sailings of the steamboats are to be found in the _Indicateurs_. On

Lake Como a convenient little flyleaf guide for the lake sailings is

sold on board at the price of 5 centessimi (one halfpenny).

* * * * *

Most towns have their town omnibuses. In Paris there is a system of

‘correspondence,’ by which the passenger leaves his omnibus at certain

stations and gets (with the same ticket) into another to prosecute his

route. But this correspondence is puzzling to a stranger, who will

always find it better to take a cab and drive direct to his destination.

* * * * *

Tramways are beginning to be introduced, with carriages similar to our

own, but are generally placed in streets where they will as little as

possible interfere with other traffic.

In some towns of Italy, such as Milan, there are laid stone–ways, being

two parallel courses of flat stones, each course perhaps about a foot

broad, embedded in the causeway and on the same level, on which the

wheels of carts and carriages run smoothly. It has sometimes struck

me that such a system of stone tramways without grooves, on which all

carriages could run, and which would not catch their wheels, would be

preferable for the streets of hilly cities at home, for which tram

rails, especially in its busy thoroughfares, are entirely unsuitable.

All the smoothness of the tramway would be obtained without its danger

to life, its injury to carriages, and its interference with ordinary

traffic; while the huge, clumsy, box–looking, road–filling cars would

give place to a set of light omnibuses of sufficient number. The luxury

of travelling a mile in a larger car could not be placed in the balance.

* * * * *

There are other means of conveyance, such as donkeys and gondolas,

which will be more appropriately referred to when I come to speak of

the places where they are used.

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