Light!--no one dwelling in the cities of the North may ever imagine the

possibilities of light and of color in the equatorial world. And he

who has once known them must continue forever enchanted,--must feel,

after departure from them, like an exile from Paradise. The poetry of

the tropics is born of such regret. Romance and song are essentially

imaginative; and that which surpasses and satiates imagination does

not directly stimulate their production: it is only as an exile that

the creole becomes a poet, when he remembers the charm of his country

without the pains of its daily life. There is no more touching

incident, perhaps, in literary history, than the fate of Léonard, the

poet of Guadeloupe. His youth had been mostly spent abroad in struggles

to obtain the means of returning to his native island. Succeeding

after intense strain, he returned to find himself only a victim of

the revolution of 1789,--threatened with death if he persisted in

remaining. His friends hurried him on board a vessel; but, although he

had been already wounded and pursued by an assassin, he could not nerve

himself to go. Again and again he left the ship, and only with the

greatest difficulty could he be persuaded at last to remain on board.

But nostalgia had brought him to the condition of a dying man before

his arrival in France. At Nantes he tried to reëmbark, hoping at least

to die in his beloved island; but he expired before the ship could sail.

Tropical nature is indeed an enchantress; but she does more than

bewitch, she transforms body and soul. She satisfies the senses,

and numbs the aspirations; she lulls the higher faculties to sleep

while gratifying, as nowhere else, the physical wants of life. It has

been often said that human happiness has a certain fixed measure in

all conditions of existence: the quality may vary, the capacity for

each individual remains the same. Such a belief would seem to have

its confirmation in the conditions of tropical society. The pleasures

of intellectual life become almost impossible in a climate where

the least mental effort provokes drowsiness, and the middle of each

day is devoted to sleep; nor can the dazzling spectacle of tropical

vegetation under tropical skies wholly compensate the enervating

effect of an atmosphere hot and heavy as the air of a Turkish bath.

Social existence, so circumstanced, becomes of necessity both indolent

and provincial; and the enchantment of the tropics should prove

irresistible only to strangers able and willing to dream life away,

and to abandon all gifts of civilization so hardly earned by Northern

struggle. And one must know this, to guess how far from enviable is

the life of white women even in the English tropics, where there is at

least an effort to maintain the social customs of the mother country.

But in the old Latin colonies of the Pacific and the West Indies,

woman's life has always been narrowed by formal customs which no

American or English girl could well resign herself to endure.

II

Time seems to have moved very slowly in the old French colonies. In

the streets of Martinique or Réunion or Marie-Galante or Guadeloupe,

one almost seems to live in the seventeenth century,--so little

have architecture or customs been modified in two or three hundred

years. The great changes effected by the abolition of slavery are not

immediately discernible to a stranger; the free blacks and people

of color, forming the mass of the population, still cling to the

simple and bright attire of other days, and seem to hold almost the

same relation to white colonial life as hired servants that they

formerly held as slaves. Emancipation, republicanism, and education

have not yet abolished the old manners, nor greatly modified the

creole speech. Could Josephine arise from the dust of her rest to

revisit her Martinique birthplace, she would find so little changed

at Trois-Islets, that except for the saucier manner of the younger

negroes, she could scarcely surmise the new republican conditions. And

the modern life of the creole woman, though less luxurious than in the

previous century of colonial prosperity, varies otherwise little from

that of her great-greatgrandmother.

Her birth is announced with antique formality in the colonial papers,

and duly registered in the _Archives de la Marine_. She is christened

in the twilight of some colonial baptistery, where silhouettes of

palm-heads quiver behind stained-glass windows; and receives those

half-dozen names--names of angels, or saints, alternated with names

of ancestors--by which every white creole child is ushered into the

world. Then some comely black or brown woman, dazzlingly robed in

bright colors, and covered with barbaric jewelry, carries her on a

silken cushion from house to house that all of family kin may kiss her.

Always through the recollections of her childhood there will smile

back to her the memory of that kind swart face,--the face of her black

nurse, of her _da_. It is the _da_ who bathes her, feeds her, dresses

her, lulls her to sleep with song: doubtless for a time she believes

the dark woman her mother. It is the _da_ who first takes her out

into the beautiful world of the tropics,--shows her the mighty azure

circle of the sea, and the coming and going of the ships, and the peaks

with their circling clouds, and the whispering gold of cane-fields,

and the palms, and the jewel-feathered humming birds. It is the black

nurse who first teaches her to kiss,--to utter the words _'Manman,'

'Da,' 'Papoute,'_ to express her infant thoughts in the softest

cooing speech uttered by human lips,--the creole tongue. It is the

_da_ also who first thrills her child-fancy into blossom with stories

of the impossible, and who stimulates her musical sense by teaching

her strange songs,--melodies borne with slavery into the Indies from

Senegal or the Coast of Gold.

Growing older, the little one is gradually separated from her _da_, is

taught to speak French, to submit to many formal restraints, is finally

sent,--while still a mere child,--to some convent school. She leaves

it only on arriving at womanhood. Perhaps during those years she sees

her parents every regular visiting day, and during the brief Christmas

vacations; but she is practically separated otherwise from them as much

as if imprisoned,--though they may be living only a few streets away.

If they are very rich, she may be sent away to France. In the latter

event she may acquire accomplishments superior to those imparted in

any colonial convent; but the education mother respects is very simple

and old-fashioned: the chief result aimed at in the training of girls

being moral and religious rather than secular. The _pensionnaires_ of

the colonial convents wear a very plain uniform,--a straightfalling

dress of sombre color, belted at the waist, and a broad straw hat. The

different classes are distinguished by long narrow ribbons crossed over

breast and back and tied round the waist below, the ends being left to

stream down at one side. One class wears blue ribbons; another pink;

another white. Altogether the uniform is ugly; it gives an aspect of

clumsiness which is quite foreign to the creole race. Nothing could

seem more uninteresting than a procession of convent girls on their way

to church, escorted by nuns. But this is only the chrysalis stage of

creole girl-life: the beautiful butterfly will be revealed when that

sombre uniform is abandoned forever.

At seventeen or eighteen the creole girl returns home, with a large

package of class prizes,--mostly publications of Mame & Cie,--showy

volumes of a semi-religious character,--with a few books of travel,

perhaps, added, which have been carefully perused and recommended

as safe reading by some ecclesiastical censor. A private party is

given in her honor; and she makes her _début_ into creole society.

Her life, thereafter, however, would not, by American girls at all

events, be thought enviable. She rarely leaves home, except to pay a

visit to some relatives, or to go to church under the escort of some

member of the family, or some old lady chosen to accompany her. She

is scarcely ever seen upon the streets. The pleasures of shopping are

denied her. Whatever she needs is purchased for her by male relatives,

or by her hired maid,--who selects at the store such merchandise as

may be desired, and carries a stock of samples to the house, in a

tray balanced upon her head. There the decision is made, the chosen

articles retained, and the remainder carried back to the merchant,

who in due time sends in his bill. There are no evening parties or

visitings; the active life of the colony ends with sundown; all

retire between eight and nine o'clock, and rise with dawn. Except

during the brief theatrical season, and on the annual occasion of a

carnival ball given by select society, there are no evening amusements.

The discipline of the convent has prepared the young girl for this

secluded existence; but were it not for the intense heat of the

climate, she would probably suffer, in spite of such preparation, from

the monotony of her life. Happily for her, she remains as innocent

of other conditions of society as she is ignorant of all evil; and

the tenderness of her mother or other relatives does all that can be

done to render her existence happy. Still, she sometimes regrets her

convent-days,--the liberty of play-hours in the open court, with its

palms and _sabliers_: she likes to revisit the nuns occasionally,

to get a glimpse of the pupils amusing themselves as she used to

do,--secretly wishes, perhaps, that she were a child again. But she has

yet no idea how often she will wish that wish before they robe her all

in black, and put her away to sleep forever somewhere in the colonial

cemetery, under the tall palms.

All about her young life glimmer conventional bars: she is a caged

bird, vaguely desiring liberty, without a suspicion of what perils

liberty might bring. Her pleasures, her ideas, her emotions are still

those of a child,--even on the day when her mother, kissing her,

first whispers to her some news that makes her flush to her hair. She

has been spoken for! A gentleman, whom she scarcely knows even as

a visitor, has demanded her hand. Could she love him? She does not

know; she is willing to do whatever her mother deems best. They meet

thereafter more frequently,--but always as before in the _salon_,

in the presence of the family: there is no wooing; there are no

private walks and talks; there is, in short, no romance in creole

courtship;--everything is arranged and determined by the heads of

both families. Her betrothal is circulated as a piece of private news

throughout society; but no printed mention of it is ever made. Finally

the notary is called, and the marriage contract drawn up, after a

strictly business manner; she has rarely anything to do with these

preliminaries, but the future husband, if a man of the world, will

be careful to read the contract very attentively, and to discuss its

provisions, point by point. It is, in fact, a decided weakness to omit

these formal considerations of the financial side of marriage. More

than one proud or sensitive man has had reason late in life to regret

the impulse of trust or affection which caused him to sign his marriage

contract without examining it. But the _fiancée_ had nothing to do with

this: she is content to leave her parents to make every possible effort

to secure her material happiness.

Marriage opens to her a larger sphere of life. She can go out freely,

visit friends, entertain relatives at her home, and--in these more

recent years--even occasionally enter stores. But such comparative

freedom has its disadvantages. It involves a round of social duties

more or less wearisome,--visits during the heated hours of the day, and

the wearing of black close-fitting Parisian dresses in an atmosphere

and under a sun more difficult to endure than any summer conditions of

the temperate zone. Probably she feels relieved when at a later day the

cares of her household and children enable her to excuse herself from

taking further part in active social life; and thereafter she rarely

leaves home, except to go to church.

III

For more than two centuries such has been the monotonous,

half-cloistered existence of creole women in the French colonies.

Such a life might have been Josephine's had she wedded a merchant or

planter of Martinique, instead of a soldier. In the past century and

before it, slavery and wealth made the existence of the creole woman

more luxurious: there were more social pleasures for her also,--more

parties, receptions, amusements,--especially in the capital, Fort

Royal, where the Governor held a veritable court. Furthermore, the

flower of creole society passed much of its time at Paris, and

exercised some influence in the _Métropole_. But in the colony

proper, the creole girl has no free joyous girlhood, no prospect of

larger liberty save through marriage, and no romance of love. Yet,

notwithstanding these apparent disadvantages, the _demoiselles_ of the

last century were famed throughout the world for their charm of manner

and singular beauty.

Climate and other tropical conditions had quite transformed the

colonial race within a few generations, changing not only complexion

and temperament, but the very shape of the skeleton,--lengthening

the limbs, making delicate the extremities, deepening the orbits to

protect the eye from the immense light. The creole became more lithe

and refined of aspect than the European parent,--taller but more

slender,--more supple, though less strong; and that grace which is the

particular characteristic of Latin blood would seem to have obtained

its utmost possible physical expression in the women of Martinique. The

colony was justly proud of them; their reputation abroad had become

romantic; and legends of their witchery were being circulated the world

over. So much was their influence feared that the home government

passed a special law forbidding any of its colonial officials to marry

creoles, lest the discharge of diplomatic duties should be directed by

some charming woman's will, rather than by the will of the sovereign.

Yet, in a few years more, a creole woman was to share the throne of

the first Napoleon, and sway the destinies of Europe by her gentle

counsel,--that Josephine de la Pagerie, of Trois-Islets, whose memory

lives in the beautiful marble statue erected in the _Savane_ of

Fort-de-France, by the citizens of the colony.

IV

There is another Martinique memory, which one cannot pass over in

speaking of the creole beauties of former days. Robert, a tiny village

on the southeast coast, has a legend which once gave it quite as much

distinction as Trois-Islets. Robert, or at least one of its suburbs,

claimed to be the birthplace of another lovely creole, who became,

it was alleged, no less a personage than the Sultana-Validé of Selim

III. More than one historian seems to have given credit to this story,

M. Sidney Daney, in his 'Histoire de la Martinique,' even published

her portrait, with the inscription beneath: 'Aimée Dubuc De Rivéry,

Sultana-Validé, et mère de Mahmoud II.--A pretty face, with hair

powdered and combed back after the early fashion of the eighteenth

century, and that soft roundness of lines suggesting the ripeness of

sixteen years,--when the slender child is just passing into the beauty

of womanhood.

The legend is said to have inspired a novel, which I was not able to

find in the colony; it is perhaps long out of print. The pages of M.

Sidney Daney,[1] who treats the story as a historical event, probably

form the best authority for it. According to this writer Mademoiselle

Aimée Dubuc Dérivry was born on the Pointe Royale plantation at Robert

in December, 1766,--three years later than Josephine. She was the

child of one of the oldest and most distinguished creole families of

Martinique. She was sent to France at an early age to be educated, and

passed several years in a convent school at Nantes. At the age of

eighteen she was called home, and embarked from the same port in charge

of a governess. The vessel was attacked and captured by an Algerian

corsair, and Aimée, her governess, and other passengers were taken to

Algiers and sold as slaves. The beauty of the young creole attracted

the notice of the Dey, who, desiring to gain the friendship of the

Sultan, bought the girl and sent her as a present to Selim III at

Constantinople. There, it was alleged, she became first the favorite,

and afterward Sultana-Validé--as the mother, in 1785, of Mahmoud II,

who ascended the Ottoman throne in 1808. Such is the legend, in its

briefest possible form.

To those familiar with Turkish history, the narrative is palpably

absurd. But it is still believed in the colony, notwithstanding its

disproval by a more careful writer than Daney,--M. Pierre Régis

Dessalles, in a note attached to one of the chapters of his 'Annales

du Conseil Souverain de la Martinique.'[2] Dessalles, disciplined to

exactitude by his legal profession, never set down a statement without

thorough examination of fact, and had to aid him all the _Archives de

la Marine_,--among which are preserved in France all important colonial

documents, since climate and insects render the perfect conservation

of papers impossible in the tropics. From these he found the history

of the De Rivéry, or Dérivry family,--the latter spelling being

the official one. The father was Henri Jacob Dubuc Dérivry, of the

parish of Robert, who married (24th May, 1773) Demoiselle Marie Anne

Arbousset, belonging to a family illustrious in Martinique history. By

this marriage he had three children:--

1. Marie-Anne, born April 5, 1774; died November 28, 1775.

2. Rose-Henriette-Germaine, born February 6, 1778. There is

no documentary evidence in existence as to what became of

Rose-Henriette-Germaine. This is probably the girl alleged to have

entered the seraglio at Constantinople, and to have had her brother

(captured with her) created a pasha--Mehemet-Ali, father of Ibrahim

Pasha.

3. Marie--Alexandrine--Louise--Victoire, born June 24, 1780, and

married January 15, 1806, to a Monsieur Malet.

Thus the legend evaporates! Allowing for the precocity of creole women,

it is still quite evident that, as Rose-Henriette-Germaine was born

February 6, 1778, and the Sultan Mahmoud (her alleged son!) on July 20,

1785, the story is impossible according to the records, which allow an

interval of only twelve years between the marriage of M. Dérivry and

the birth of Mahmoud, at which time Rose could have been only seven

or eight years old. M. Daney says she was born at Robert, December i,

1755; but M. Dérivry was married only in 1773. Furthermore, Mahmoud

II was not the son of Selim III! Yet, in spite of these hard facts,

the legend is still believed; the colony still boasts of its Aimée

Dérivry as a mother of Sultans; and faded MS. documents--some of which

I have read, and copied myself--are shown to strangers as proof of the

romantic story.

All that is certain is that about a hundred years ago some young creole

girl of the Dubuc family was sent to France for her education, and

was never seen again by her parents; that many strange stories were

related accounting for the mystery of her disappearance, some cruel,

some improbable, all false; that her relatives went to Europe and spent

years in vain efforts to discover a trace of her; and that meanwhile

there sprang up this legend of her fate, still told with pride to

strangers in the colony, over a glass of sugar syrup and rum, by

hospitable planters.

[Footnote 1: _Histoire de la Martinique, depuis la colonization

jusqu'en_ 1815. Par M. Sidney Daney, Membre du Conseil Colonial de la

Martinique. Fort-Royal: 1844. See vol. iv, p. 234.]

[Footnote 2: Vol. H, pp. 285, 286.]

V

But though the old order of creole life remains almost unchanged, that

life has shrunk into much smaller channels, and has undergone many

modifications. The wealth and indolent luxury of the eighteenth century

have become memories. The influence of the race upon home politics

has totally ceased. The race itself is rapidly disappearing from the

islands. Except among the few survivors of the old régime you may now

seek in vain for that proud, fine type of valiant and vigorous manhood,

once the honor of colonial France. With the abolition of slavery and

the introduction of universal suffrage, the new social conditions

became almost unbearable for the formerly dominant class,--with its

intense conservatism. Naturally the men of strong individuality

suffered most in the hopeless war of race prejudice and race politics

provoked by a too speedy conferring of political rights upon a

population of slaves; and the more energetic whites found themselves

forced to emigrate elsewhere. Those powerful characters who had given

the old creole life all its dignity and stability vanished from the

scene; and the remnant of the whites softened down into that condition

of dull, inert, flaccid existence which is their portion to-day. The

social conditions of the time of the monarchy have been, indeed, almost

reversed: the dark population, multiplying with wonderful rapidity

ever since emancipation, is crowding the white population out of the

islands; and the former slave race is now politically the dominant

one. It seems more than possible that the white creole race will

have disappeared from all the French West Indies within a few more

generations,--certainly from Martinique.

How much the creole white woman has suffered in this race contest

may only be understood by those long familiar with colonial life.

With the decline of caste dignity and caste prosperity her existence

necessarily becomes more and more narrowed, and her future vaguer in

its promises of happiness. Something of her present life may be divined

from its invisibility; still more from the fact that it is dominated

by a religious influence which strictly, regulates and limits her

diversions, her reading, and the boundaries of her knowledge. She has

lost that graceful haughtiness once the particular characteristic of

her race; she has also, perhaps, lost something of that aristocratic

gift of fine tact which formerly distinguished her as a daughter of

statesmen; she is becoming something of a _bourgeoise_, Her chances

in life are also growing cruelly small. Probably the white female

population now considerably exceeds the male; yet weddings are

infrequent, and their number yearly grows less. Among the modern

creoles, the size of a girl's dowry has most to do with influencing

a match; marriages are rather dependent upon business considerations

and social connections in relation to business prospects, than upon

mutual affection. It was not so in the old days: marriage was then

regarded as a social duty; and even the laxity of tropical morals in

slave times rarely prevented any man from fulfilling that social

duty, and abandoning all reckless living after a certain age. The

change in colonial ideas in this respect has been attributed to moral

degeneracy,--to class conservatism in creole relations with the foreign

element,--to various other causes. It is simply the result of poverty!

The old conditions were wholly artificial, wholly based upon the

institution of slavery, supported by a strong monarchical government;

and the true character of that structure is now being revealed by the

fact that the white race cannot hold its own in the colonies.

Leaves from the Diary of an Impressionist: Early Writings · 第 4 / 6 段