_Railway Truck_, consisting merely of the inner part, or tray of a match
box, with two match-stick axles glued across the bottom, and four
cardboard wheels secured in position by means of "doll pins" (Fig. 23);
and then you can proceed to the most elaborate vehicles, bridges,
buildings, furniture, machines, &c.
[Illustration: FIG. 23.]
To give an idea of the method, we show how to put together a small
overhead
_Tram Car._--In the first place you want two pieces of veneer or
cardboard, measuring 11-1/4 by 4-3/4 in. and 11-1/4 by 5 in.--to act
respectively as the lower and upper decks. The actual method of
construction can best be understood by a careful study of Fig. 24. The
lower deck rests on four cardboard wheels. These are fixed by means of
doll pins to two wooden axles (match stales) glued right across the
under side of the lower deck. On this the structure is built up with
match boxes. Three covers are placed lengthways along each side and
glued into position. Then above these come five match trays, which, when
standing up, take up just the same space. These are glued into position,
facing outwards, and projecting about 1/4 in. beyond the under covers.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
Across the top of the two sides so formed is glued the second sheet of
veneer or cardboard, 11-1/4 by 5 in., to form the upper deck. Five
covers placed end to end exactly make up a side for this, and one at
each end completes the superstructure. Two covers, placed end to end,
make a suitable back and front for the lower deck, while two pieces of
veneer, 3-3/4 by 4-1/2 in., effectively close up the inside of the car.
The trolley pole is provided by a wooden skewer, glued to the lower
deck, and passing through a hole in the centre of the upper. That
completes the tram for all practical purposes. If you desire to make
your model more elaborate, you can construct a cardboard or wooden
stairway at each end, connecting the upper and lower decks; and you can
replace the sheets of veneer at each end of the inside by properly
constructed doorways; and so on.
Another excellent toy, constructed with match boxes--and one very much
appreciated by little brothers and sisters--is the
_Model Stores._--Once again this will be best understood by reference to
the illustration (Fig. 25). The stores consist of a counter and a back
fitment--the two mounted on a base board. For the counter, five
complete match boxes should be glued side by side and then mounted on
six empty covers. The trays of the five complete boxes should then be
given handles to make them into drawers. For these handles nothing can
beat a boot button. The small metal loop is pushed through a hole in the
end of the tray, and then secured in position by means of a tiny wooden
wedge pushed through the loop on the inside.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.]
The back fitment consists of a block of twenty covers, five in a row,
and four rows deep. These are glued into position. The two lower rows
are deprived of their trays to make storage partitions, and the two
upper are fitted with handles as above. Surmounting this block is an
upper fitment consisting of five trays glued together so as to stand
upright at the back of the block, leaving a free shelf in front (as in
most grocers' shops). Finally there is a row of three trays placed
endways on the top of the five just mentioned.
For "playing at shops" a little model like this is invaluable.
_A Red-Cross Cart._--For this a large empty match tray is required.
Across the under side a short length of match stale is glued, to act as
an axle for the two wheels. These can be cut from either veneer or
cardboard. A good plan is to cut out a circle in fairly stiff cardboard,
and glue a covering of veneer on each side; this adds to the appearance
of the wheel and makes it stiffer. If veneer alone is used, two circles
must be cut out for each wheel, and glued together with the grain at
right angles. The wheels should be fixed in position with doll pins.
For the tilt a piece of veneer bent over and glued to the inner sides of
the match box will do quite well. The red cross may be painted on, but
will look considerably better if cut from some light red paper and
stuck on. All that remains is to supply the shafts. For this two pieces
of stale of the requisite length should be glued to the under side of
the body of the cart. Fig. 26 shows the completed model.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.]