JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN TO RAVANDUS--ARRIVAL AT AND STAY IN RAVANDUS--
A KURDISH FAMILY--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY--SAUH-BULAK--OROMIA--
AMERICAN MISSIONARIES--KUTSCHIE--THREE GENEROUS ROBBERS--PERSIAN
CHANS AND ENGLISH BUNGALOWS--ARRIVAL AT TEBRIS.
On the 8th of July the caravan guide called for me in the evening.
His appearance was so unfavourable that I should scarcely have
ventured to travel a mile with him had I not been assured that he
was a man well known in the place. His dress consisted of rags and
tatters, and his countenance resembled that of a robber. Ali, that
was his name, told me that the travellers and goods had already gone
on and were encamped in the chan near Nebbi-Yunus, where they were
to pass the night. The journey was to be commenced before sunrise.
I found three men and some pack-horses; the men (Kurds) were no
better in appearance than Ali, so that I could not promise myself
much gratification from their society. I took up my quarters for
the night in the dirty court-yard of the chan, but was too much
frightened to sleep well.
In the morning, to my astonishment, there were no indications of
starting. I asked Ali what was the cause of this, and received as
answer that the travellers were not all assembled yet, and that, as
soon as they were, we should proceed immediately. In the
expectation that this might soon happen, I dared not leave the
miserable shelter to return to Mosul, from which we were only a mile
distant. The whole day was spent in waiting; these people did not
come until evening. There were five of them: one, who appeared to
be a wealthy man, with his two servants, was returning from a
pilgrimage. We started at last about 10 o'clock at night. After
travelling for four hours we crossed several ranges of hills, which
form the boundaries of Mesopotamia and Kurdistan. We passed several
villages, and reached Secani on the morning of the 10th of July.
Ali did not halt at the village which lies on the pretty river
Kasir, but on the other side of the river near a couple of deserted,
half-ruined huts. I hastened directly into one of the best to make
sure of a good place, where the sun did not come through the sieve-
like roof, which I fortunately found but the pilgrim, who hobbled in
directly after me, was inclined to dispute its possession. I threw
my mantle down, and seating myself upon it, did not move from the
place, well knowing that a Mussulman never uses force towards a
woman, not even towards a Christian one. And so it turned out; he
left me in my place and went grumbling away. One of the pedlars
behaved himself in a very different manner: when he saw that I had
nothing for my meal but dry bread, while he had cucumbers and sweet
melons, he gave me a cucumber and a melon, for which he would not
take any money. The pilgrim also ate nothing else, although he had
only to send one of his servants to the village to procure either
fowls or eggs, etc. The frugality of these people is really
astonishing.
About 6 in the evening we again proceeded on our journey, and for
the first three hours went continually up-hill. The ground was
waste and covered with boulders, which were full of shallow holes,
and resembled old lava.
Towards 11 at night we entered an extensive and beautiful valley,
upon which the moon threw a brilliant light. We purposed halting
here, and not continuing our journey further during the night, as
our caravan was small, and Kurdistan bears a very bad name. The
road led over fields of stubble near to stacks of corn. Suddenly
half a dozen powerful fellows sprung out from behind, armed with
stout cudgels, and seizing our horses' reins, raised their sticks,
and shouted at us terribly. I felt certain that we had fallen into
the hands of a band of robbers, and was glad to think that I had
left my treasures which I had collected at Babylon and Nineveh,
together with my papers, at Mosul; my other effects might have been
easily replaced. During the time this was passing in my mind, one
of our party had sprung from his horse and seized one of the men by
the breast, when he held a loaded pistol before his face and
threatened to shoot him. This had an immediate effect; the
waylayers relinquished their hold, and soon entered into a peaceful
conversation with us; and at last, indeed, showed us a good place to
encamp, for which, however, they requested a small bachshish, which
was given to them by a general collection. From me, as belonging to
the female sex, they required nothing. We passed the night here,
though not without keeping guard.
11th July. About 4 o'clock we were again upon the road, and rode
six hours, when we came to the village of Selik. We passed through
several villages, which, however, had a very miserable appearance.
The huts were built of reeds and straw; the slightest gust of wind
would have been sufficient to have blown them over. The dress of
the people approaches in character to the Oriental; all were very
scantily, dirtily, and raggedly clothed.
Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another
large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains
surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew
at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and
chrysanthemums.
The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the
large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no
reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was
far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and
altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly.
Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but
I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be
attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little
ring, and not only the other children, but their mothers and
grandmothers, crowded round me. It cost me some trouble to keep
them from forcibly emptying my pockets. Since that time I was more
cautious. One of the women here changed her begging manner into one
so threatening, that I was heartily glad at not being alone with
her.
We left this village at 4 in the afternoon. The pilgrim separated
from us, and the caravan then consisted of only five men. In about
an hour and a half we reached an eminence from which we obtained a
view of an extensive and well cultivated hill country. The land in
Kurdistan is without comparison better than in Mesopotamia, and the
country is consequently better inhabited; we were, therefore
continually passing through different villages.
Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for
fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds: a brisk
stream murmured at our side, the heat of the day was now succeeded
by the evening shadows, and, at this moment we had nothing to wish
for. This good fortune, however, did not last long; one of the
pedlars was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to stop. He
nearly fell off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him
with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we
had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he
fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground
and followed his example.
12th July. This morning our patient was well again; a doubly
fortunate circumstance, as we had to pass a terribly rocky and stony
road. We were obliged to scramble up and down the mountainous side
of a valley, as the valley itself was completely occupied by the
irregular course of the river Badin, which wound in a serpentine
direction from side to side. Pomegranates and oleanders grew in the
valley, wild vines twined themselves round the shrubs and trees, and
larches covered the slopes of the hills.
After a difficult and dangerous ride of six hours, we came to a ford
of the river Badin. Our raft turned out to be so small that it
would carry only two men, and very little baggage; and we were, in
consequence, four hours in crossing. We stayed for the night not
far from the ferry of Vakani.
13th July. The road still continued bad; we had to ascend an
immense pile of mountains. Far and wide, nothing was to be seen but
rock and stone, although, to my astonishment, I observed that in
many places the stones had been gathered on one side, and every
little spot of earth made use of. A few dwarf ash-trees stood here
and there. The whole has the character of the country near Trieste.
Although there were no villages on the road, there appeared to be
some near, for on many of the heights I observed large burial-
places, especially on those which are overshadowed by ash-trees. It
is the custom throughout Kurdistan to establish the burial-places on
high situations.
We did not travel more than seven hours today, and halted in the
valley of Halifan. This little valley has an uncommonly romantic
situation; it is surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, which
rise with a gentle slope on one side, and on the other are steep and
precipitous. The whole valley was covered with a rich vegetation;
the stubble-fields were interspersed with tobacco and rice
plantations, and meadows. Poplar-trees surrounded the village,
which was pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill, and a stream of
crystalline clearness rushed forcibly out of a mountain chasm, and
flowed calmly and still through this delightful valley. Towards
evening, numerous herds of cows, sheep, and goats came from the
mountain-slopes towards the village.
We encamped at some distance from the village; I could not procure
any relish for my dry bread, and had no other bed than the hard
ground of a stubble-field. Nevertheless I should include this
evening among the most agreeable; the scenery round compensated me
sufficiently for the want of every other enjoyment.
14th July. Ali allowed us to rest only half the night; at 2 o'clock
we were again mounted. A few hundred paces from our resting-place
was the entrance of a stupendous mountain-pass. The space between
the sides of the rocks afforded only sufficient room for the stream
and a narrow pathway. Fortunately the moon shone out brilliantly,
otherwise it would have been scarcely possible for the most
practised animal to ascend the narrow and extremely dangerous road
between the fallen masses of rock and rolling stones. Our hardy
animals scrambled like chamois along, over the edges of the steep
precipices, and carried us with safety past the terrible abyss, at
the bottom of which the stream leapt, with a frightful roaring, from
rock to rock. This night-scene was so terrible and impressive that
even my uncultivated companions were involuntarily silent--mute, and
noiseless, we went on our way, nothing breaking the death-like
stillness but the rattling steps of our animals.
We had proceeded about an hour in this way, when the moon was
suddenly obscured; thick clouds gathered round from all sides, and
the darkness soon became so great that we could scarcely see a few
steps before us. The foremost man continually struck fire, so as to
light up the path somewhat by the sparks. But this did not help us
much, the animals began to slip and stumble. We were compelled to
halt, and stood quiet and motionless, one behind the other, as if
suddenly changed to stone by magic. Life returned again with
daybreak, and we spurred our animals briskly forwards.
We were in an indescribably beautiful circle of mountains; at our
side lay high cliffs; before and behind, hills and mountains crowded
over each other, and in the far distance an enormous peak, covered
with snow, completed the romantic picture. This mountain-pass is
called Ali-Bag. For three hours and a half we continued going up
hill, without intermission.
A short distance before reaching the plateau, we observed, in
several places, small spots of blood, of which nobody at first took
much notice, as they might have been caused by a horse or mule that
had injured itself. But shortly we came to a place which was
entirely covered with large blood-spots. This sight filled us with
great horror; we looked round anxiously for the cause of these marks
and perceived two human bodies far down below. One hung scarcely a
hundred feet down on the declivity of the rock, the other had rolled
further on, and was half-buried under a mass of rock. We hastened
from this horrible scene as quickly as we could; it was several days
before I could free myself from the recollection of it.
All the stones on the plateau were full of holes, as if other stones
had been stuck in. This appearance ceased as we went further up.
In the valley, at the other side of the plateau, there were vines,
which, however, did not rise far above the ground, as they were not
supported in any way.
Our road continued on through the mountains. We frequently
descended, but again had to cross several heights, and, finally,
came out upon a small elevated plain, which, on both sides, was
bounded by steep declivities. A village of huts, made of branches,
was situated on this plain, and on the summits of two neighbouring
rocks fortified works were erected.
My travelling companions remained behind here; but Ali went with me
to the town of Ravandus, which only becomes visible from this side
at a very short distance.
The situation and view of this town is most charming; not indeed
from its beauty, for it is not more remarkable in that respect than
other Turkish towns, but on account of its peculiarity. It is
situated upon a steep, isolated cone, surrounded by mountains. The
houses are built in the form of terraces, one above another, with
flat roofs, which are covered with earth, stamped down hard, so as
to resemble narrow streets, for which they serve to the upper
houses, and it is frequently difficult to tell which is street and
which roof. On many of the terraces, walls, formed of the branches
of trees, are erected, behind which the people sleep. Lower down,
the hill is surrounded by a fortified wall.
When I first caught hold of this eagle's nest, I feared that I had
not much probability of finding any conveniences for travellers, and
every step further confirmed this opinion. Ravandus was one of the
most miserable towns I ever saw. Ali conducted me over a beggarly
bazaar to a dirty court, which I took for a stable, but was the
chan; and, after I had dismounted, took me into a dark recess, in
which the merchant, to whom I had a letter, sat upon the ground
before his stall. This merchant was the most considerable of his
class in Ravandus. Mr. Mansur, that was the merchant's name, read
over the letter which I had brought, for full a quarter of an hour,
although it only consisted of a few lines, and then greeted me with
a repeated salaam, which means "you are welcome."
The good man must have concluded that I had not tasted any food
today, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast immediately,
consisting of bread, sheep's cheese, and melons. These were eaten
all together. My hunger was so great that I found this plan
excellent. I ate without ceasing. The conversation, on the
contrary, was not so successful; my host did not understand any
European language, nor I any Asiatic language. We made use of
signs, and I took pains to make him understand that I was desirous
of going on further as soon as possible. He promised to do his
utmost for me, and also explained that he would see to me during my
stay; he was not married, and therefore could not receive me into
his own house, but would take me to one of his relations.
After breakfast was ended he took me to a house resembling those of
the Arabs at Kerkil, except that the court-yard was very small, and
completely filled with rubbish and puddles. Under the door-way,
four ugly women with half-ragged clothes, were seated upon a dirty
rug, playing with some little children. I was obliged to sit down
with them, and undergo the usual curious examination and staring.
For some time I put up with it, but then left this charming society,
and looked about for a place where I could arrange my toilette a
little. I had not changed my clothes for six days, having been
exposed, at the same time, to a heat which was far greater than that
under the line. I found a dirty and smutty room, which, in addition
to the disgust it excited, made me fear the presence of vermin and
scorpions; of the latter I had a particular dread. I thought at
first that they were to be found in every place, as I had read in
many descriptions of travels that they were innumerable in these
countries. My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not meet with any,
even in the dirtiest places; in ruins, court-yards, or sardabs.
Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but I suffered a
great deal from other vermin, which are only to be removed by
burning the clothes and linen.
I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one
woman after the other came in; the women were followed by the
children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the
arrival of an Inglesi; I was worse off here than under the gateway.
At last, one of the women luckily thought of offering me a bath, and
I accepted the proposal with great joy. Hot water was prepared, and
they made a sign for me to follow them, which I did, and found
myself in the sheep-stall, which, perhaps, had not been cleaned for
years, or indeed as long as it had stood. In this place they pushed
two stones together, upon which I was to stand, and in the presence
of the whole company, who followed me like my shadow, allow myself
to be bathed with water. I made signs to them to go out, as I
wished to perform this office myself; they did indeed leave me, but
as misfortune had it, the stall had no door, and they were all able
to look in just the same.
I passed four days among these people, the day time in dark
recesses, the evenings and nights upon the terraces. I was obliged,
like my hostess, constantly to squat down on the ground, and when I
wanted to write anything I had to make use of my knees instead of a
table. Every day they told me there was a caravan going away to-
morrow. Alas! they said so only to quiet me, they saw, perhaps, how
disagreeable the stay was to me. The women lounged about the whole
day sleeping or chattering, playing with, or scolding the children.
They preferred going about in dirty rags to mending and washing
them, and they allowed their children to tyrannize over them
completely.
When the latter wanted anything and did not get it, they threw
themselves on the ground, struck about with their hands and feet,
howling and shrieking until they obtained what they desired.
They had no fixed meal-times during the day, but the women and
children were constantly eating bread, cucumbers, melons and
buttermilk. In the evenings they bathed very much, and every one
washed their hands, faces, and feet, which ceremony was frequently
repeated three or four times before prayers; but there was a great
want of real devotion: in the middle of the prayers they chattered
right and left. However, there is not much difference with us.
Notwithstanding all these glaring and gross defects I found these
people very amiable: they willingly permitted themselves to be
taught, admitted their failings, and always allowed me to be right
when I said or explained anything to them. For example, the little
Ascha, a girl seven years of age was very intractable. If she was
denied anything she threw herself on the ground, crying miserably,
rolling about in the filth and dirt, and smearing with her dirty
hands the bread, melons, etc. I endeavoured to make the child
conscious of her misbehaviour, and succeeded beyond all expectation.
I, in fact, imitated her. The child looked at me astounded, upon
which I asked if it had pleased her. She perceived the
offensiveness of her conduct, and I did not often need to imitate
her. It was just the same with regard to cleanliness. She
immediately washed herself carefully, and then came running joyfully
to me showing her hands and face. During the few days I was here
the child became so fond of me that she would not leave my side, and
sought in every way to make friends with me.
I was not less fortunate with the women; I pointed out their torn
clothes, brought needles, and thread, and taught them how to sew and
mend. They were pleased with this, and I had in a short time a
whole sewing school round me.
How much good might be done here by any one who knew the language
and had the inclination, only the parents must be taught at the same
time as the children.
What a fine field is here open to the missionaries if they would
accustom themselves to live among these people, and with kindness
and patience to counteract their failings! As it is, however, they
devote at the utmost only a few hours in the day to them, and make
their converts come to them, instead of visiting them in their own
houses.
The women and girls in the Asiatic countries receive no education,
those in the towns have little or no employment, and are left to
themselves during the whole day. The men go at sunrise to the
bazaars, where they have their stalls or workshops, the bigger boys
go to school or accompany their fathers, and neither return home
before sunset. There the husband expects to find the carpets spread
out on the terraces, the supper ready, and the nargilly lighted, he
then plays a little with the young children, who, however, during
meal-time are obliged to keep away with their mothers. The women in
the villages have more liberty and amusement, as they generally take
part in the housekeeping. It is said that the people in the country
here are, as among ourselves, more moral than in the towns.
The dress worn by the richer Kurds is the Oriental, that of the
common people differs slightly from it. The men wear wide linen
trousers, over them a shirt reaching to the hips, and fastened round
the waist by a girdle. They frequently draw on, over the shirt, a
jacket without sleeves, made of coarse brown woollen stuff, which is
properly cut into strips of a hand's breath, and joined together by
broad seams. Others wear trousers of brown stuff instead of white
linen; they are, however, extremely ugly, as they are really nothing
more than a wide shapeless sack with two holes, through which the
feet are put. The coverings for the feet are either enormous shoes
of coarsely woven white sheeps' wool, ornamented with three tassels,
or short, very wide boots of red or yellow leather, reaching only
just above the ankle and armed with large plates an inch thick. The
head-dress is a turban.
The women wear long wide trousers, blue shirts, which frequently
reach half a yard over the feet, and are kept up by means of a
girdle; a large blue mantle hangs from the back of the neck,
reaching down to the calves. They wear the same kind of plated
boots as the men. On their heads they wear either black kerchiefs
wound in the manner of a turban, or a red fez, the top of which is
very broad, and covered with silver coins arranged in the form of a
cross. A coloured silk kerchief is wound round the fez, and a
wreath made of short black silk fringe is fastened on the top. This
wreath looks like a handsome rich fur-trimming, and is so arranged
that it forms a coronet, leaving the forehead exposed. The hair
falls in numerous thin tresses over the shoulders, and a heavy
silver chain hangs down behind from the turban. It is impossible to
imagine a head dress that looks better than this.
Neither women or girls cover their faces, and I saw here several
very beautiful girls with truly noble features. The colour of the
skin is rather brown, the eyebrows and lashes were black, and the
hair dyed reddish-brown with henna. Among the lower orders small
nose rings are sometimes worn here.
Mr. Mansur furnished me with a very good table in the morning, I had
buttermilk, bread, cucumber, and on one occasion dates roasted in
butter, which, however, was not very palatable; in the evening
mutton and rice, or a quodlibet of rice, barley, maize, cucumber,
onions and minced meat. I found it all very good as I was healthy,
and had a good appetite. The water and buttermilk are taken very
cold, and a piece of ice is always put into them. Ice is to be met
with in abundance not only in the towns, but also in every village.
It is brought from the mountains in the neighbourhood, the people
eat large pieces of it with great relish.
In spite of the endeavours of Mr. Mansur and his relations to render
my stay bearable, or perhaps, indeed, pleasant, according to their
ideas, I was agreeably surprised when Ali came one morning bringing
the news that he had met with a small freight to Sauh-Bulak (seventy
miles) a place which laid on my road. That same evening I went to
the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July, was on the road
before sunrise.
Mr. Mansur was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave me a
letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also provided me with
bread for the journey, some melons, cucumbers, and a small bottle of
sour milk. The latter was particularly acceptable to me, and I
would advise every traveller to remember this nourishing and
refreshing drink.
Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part
filters through, and the solid part can be taken out with a spoon,
and mixed with water as desired. In the hot season, indeed, it
dries into cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes
very well, and in four or five days you come to places where the
supply may be renewed.
On the first day we passed continually through narrow valleys
between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we
were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pass from
one valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as
much as was possible. We halted at Tschomarichen.
19th July. The road and country was the same as those of yesterday,
except that we had more hilly ground to ascend. We very nearly
reached the height of the first snow region.
Towards evening, we came to Raid, a miserable place with a half-
ruined citadel. Scarcely had we encamped, when several well-armed
soldiers, headed by an officer, made their appearance. They spoke
for some time with Ali, and at last the officer introduced himself
to me, took his place at my side, showed me a written paper, and
made several signs. As far as I could understand, he meant to say
that I was now in Persia, and that he wanted to see my passport.
However, I did not wish to take it out of my portmanteau in the
presence of the whole of the villagers, who were already assembled
round me, and, therefore, explained to him that I did not understand
him. With this assurance he left me, saying to Ali: "What shall I
do with her? She does not understand me, and may go on further."
{279} I do not think that I should have been so leniently dealt
with in any European state!
In almost every village, a great part of the people immediately
assembled round me. The reader may imagine what a crowd had
gathered together during this discussion. To be continually stared
at in this way was one of the greatest inconveniences of my journey.
Sometimes I quite lost my patience, when the women and children
pressed round me, handling my clothes and head. Although quite
alone among them, I gave them several slight blows with my riding-
whip. This always had the desired effect; the people either went
away altogether or drew back in a ring. But here, a boy about
sixteen was inclined to punish my boldness. As usual, I went to the
river to fill my leathern flask, to wash my hands and face, and
bathe my feet. This boy slipped after me, picked up a stone, and
threatened to throw it at me. I dare not, of course, evince any
fear; and I went, therefore, quite composedly into the river. The
stone came flying, although I observed, by the way in which it was
thrown, that he was more desirous of frightening than hitting me; it
was not thrown with force, and fell several feet away. After
throwing a second and third, he went away; perhaps because he saw
that I did not heed him.
20th July. Immediately outside Raid, we had to ascend a rather
considerable mountain by a bad and dangerous road, and then came out
upon an extensive elevated plain. We left the high mountains
further behind, the headlands were covered with short grass, but
there was again a great deficiency of trees. We met great numbers
of herds of goats and sheep. The latter were very large, with thick
wool and fat tails; the wool is said to be particularly good and
fine.
My apprehensions on this journey were not quite groundless, as it
was seldom that a day passed in undisturbed quiet. Today, for
instance, a circumstance occurred which frightened me not a little:
our caravan consisted of six men and fourteen pack animals; we were
quietly pursuing our way, when suddenly a troop of mounted men came
dashing down upon us at full gallop. There were seven well-armed,
and five unarmed. The former carried lances, sabres, daggers,
knives, pistols, and shields; they were dressed like the common
people, with the exception of the turban, which was wound round with
a simple Persian shawl. I thought they had been robbers. They
stopped and surrounded us, and then inquired where we came from,
where we were going to, and what kind of goods we carried? When
they had received an explanation, they allowed us to go on. At
first I could not understand the meaning of the proceeding at all;
but, as we were stopped several times in the course of the day in a
similar manner, I concluded that these men were soldiers on duty.
We remained at Coromaduda over night.
21st July. The roads and prospects very similar to those of
yesterday. We were again stopped by a troop of soldiers, and this
time the affair seemed likely to be of more consequence. Ali must
have made some incorrect statements. They took possession of both
of his pack animals, threw their loads down on the ground, and one
of the soldiers was ordered to lead them away. Poor Ali begged and
entreated most pitifully. He pointed to me, and said that
everything belonged to me, and requested that they should have some
compassion with me as a helpless woman. The soldier turned to me
and asked if it was true. I did not think it advisable to give
myself out as their owner, and therefore appeared not to understand
him, but assumed an air of great concern and trouble. Ali, indeed,
began to cry. Our position would have been most desperate; for,
what could we have done with the goods in this barren uninhabited
district without our animals. At last, however, the leader of the
party relented, sent after the animals, and returned them to us.
Late in the evening, we reached the little town of Sauh-Bulak. As
it was not fortified, we could still enter; however, the chans and
bazaars were all closed, and we had much trouble to get the people
of one of the chans to receive us. It was very spacious and
handsome; in the centre was a basin of water, and round it small
merchants' stalls and several niches for sleeping. The people--all
men--were mostly retired to rest; only a few remained at their
devotions. Their astonishment may be imagined when they saw a woman
enter with a guide. It was too late to give my letter today, and I
therefore seated myself composedly against the luggage, in the
belief that I should have to pass the night so; but a Persian came
to me and pointed out a niche to sleep in, carried my luggage there,
and, after a little while, brought me some bread and water. The
kindness of this man was the more admirable, as it is known how much
the Mahomedans hate the Christians. May God reward him for it. I
was truly in want of this refreshment.
22nd July. Today I presented my letter, and the Persian merchant
received me with a welcome. He conducted me to a Christian family,
and promised to make arrangements for the continuation of my journey
as soon as possible. In this instance, also, the conversation was
carried on more by the means of signs than words.
There were twenty Christian families in this town, who are under the
care of a French missionary and have a very pretty church. I looked
forward with pleasure to conversing again in a language with which I
was familiar, but learnt that the missionary was on a journey, so
that I was not better off than at Ravandus, as the people with whom
I lived spoke only Persian.
The man, whose trade was that of a carpenter, had a wife, six
children, and an apprentice. They all lived in the same room, in
which they gave me a place with great readiness. The whole family
were uncommonly good and obliging towards me, were very open-
hearted, and if I bought fruit, eggs, or anything of the kind, and
offered them any, they accepted it with great modesty. But it was
not only towards myself that they were so kind, but also towards
others; no beggar went away from their threshold unrelieved; and yet
this family was terrible, and made my stay a complete purgatory.
The mother, a very stupid scolding woman, bawled and beat her
children the whole day. Ten minutes did not pass without her
dragging her children about by the hair, or kicking and thumping
them. The children were not slow in returning it; and, besides
that, fought among themselves; so that I had not a moment's quiet in
my corner, and was not unfrequently in danger of coming in for my
share, for they amused themselves by spitting and throwing large
blocks of wood at each other's heads. The eldest son several times
throttled his mother in such a way that she became black and blue in
the face. I always endeavoured, indeed, to establish peace; but it
was very seldom that I succeeded, as I was unfortunately not
sufficient master of the language to make them understand the
impropriety of their conduct.
It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there was
any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight.
I never met with such conduct among any people--even the poorest or
lowest classes of the so-called heathens or unbelievers; I never saw
their children attempt to strike their parents. When I left Sauh-
Bulak, I wrote a letter for the missionary, in which I directed his
attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to
counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist
merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.
My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily
entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if
the journey should be attended with some danger. He shook his head
and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I
travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.
I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.
I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my
mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all
dangers or other circumstances. I knew that I should find American
missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety
about proceeding on further.
The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild-
looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged,
in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay
four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be
able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged
himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in
three days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained
the other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able
to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement.
I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded,
and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and
walked about outside the town.
This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of
hills. Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never
annoyed out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at
Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance
of the common people very repulsive. Tall and strongly built, with
marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression
of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or
murderers.
In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind
not to sell my life cheaply.
28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not
start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide through
desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily
when any one met us. However, thank God, there were no adventures
to go through. We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous
swarms of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds.
They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large
wings of a red or blue colour. All the plants and grass in the
district were eaten away. I was told that the natives catch these
grasshoppers and dry and eat them. Unluckily I never saw any such
dish.
After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and
inhabited valley. Today's journey seemed to promise a favourable
termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and
frequently passed villages. Some peasants were still working here
and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me: they
wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted
with their ragged dress.
We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur.
If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of
turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even
in the fields, and had only to pick them up. But then to hunt for
wood, make a fire, and cook! No; I preferred eating a crust of
bread and a cucumber in quiet.
29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of
Mahomed-Schar. To my astonishment my driver made preparations for
stopping here. I urged him to continue the journey, but he
explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan,
as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the
same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining
stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few
hours a caravan was going our way. The whole day passed, and the
caravan did not appear. I thought that my guide was deceiving me;
and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my
mantle on the ground for me to sleep. It was now necessary that I
should make a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not
be treated like a child, and remain here as long as he thought fit.
Unfortunately I could not scold him in words, but I picked up the
mantle and threw it at his feet, and explained to him that I would
keep the remainder of the fare if he did not bring me to Oromia to-
morrow on the third day. I then turned my back to him (one of the
greatest slights), seated myself on the ground, and, resting my head
in my hands, gave myself up to the most melancholy reflections.
What should I have done here if my guide had left me, or had thought
fit to remain until a caravan happened to pass by.
During my dispute with the guide, some women had come up from the
village. They brought me some milk and some hot food, seated
themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about.
I endeavoured to explain the whole affair. They understood me and
took my part. They were vexed with my guide, and endeavoured to
console me. They did not stir from me, and pressed me so heartily
to partake of their food, that I found myself compelled to eat some.
It consisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up
together. Notwithstanding my trouble, I enjoyed it very much. When
I offered the good people a trifle for this meal they would not take
it. They seemed gratified that I was more at ease.
30th July. About 1 o'clock at night my guide began to stir himself,
saddled my horse, and called me to mount. Still I was at a loss to
understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan. Could
he mean to take his revenge on me? Why did he travel at night
through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for? I did
not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation,
and did not wish to say anything more to the fellow about not
keeping his contract, so I was obliged to go--and I did go.
With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide, who was
inclined to ride behind, to go on in front. I had no mind to be
attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols. I
listened to every sound, watched every movement of my guide, even
the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me; however, I did not
turn back.
After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large
caravan train, which was guarded by half a dozen well-armed
peasants. It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and
that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan.
Nothing caused me more surprise on this occasion, than the indolence
of these people. As they are accustomed to travel in the night
during the hot season, they also continue the custom at other times,
and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger
would be much less during the day.
After some hours we came to the Lake Oromia, which henceforth
continued on our right side; on the left lay barren hills, ravines
and mountains, extending for some miles, forming a most dreaded
place. Morning brought us into another beautiful fruitful valley,
studded with villages, the sight of which gave me courage to leave
the caravan, and hasten on.
The Lake Oromia, from which the town takes its name, is more than
sixty miles long, and in many places more than thirty wide. It
appears closely surrounded by lofty mountains, although considerable
levels intervene. Its water contains so much salt, that neither
fish nor mollusca can live in it. It is a second Dead Sea--it is
said that a human body cannot sink in it. Large patches of the
shore are covered with thick, white saline incrustations, so that
the people have only to separate the salt they want from the ground.
Although the lake, and the country round it are very beautiful, they
do not present a very attractive prospect, as the surface of the
lake is not enlivened by any boats.
Since I had left the sandy deserts round Baghdad, I had not seen any
camels, and thought that I should not see this animal again, as I
was travelling northwards. To my astonishment, we met several
trains of camels, and I learnt afterwards, that these animals were
used as beasts of burden by the Kurds, as well as the Arabs. This
is a proof that they are able to bear a colder climate; for in
winter the snow drifts to a depth of several feet in the valleys.
The camels in these districts are somewhat more robust, their feet
are thicker, their hair closer and longer, their necks longer, and
not nearly so slender, and their colour darker. I did not see any
light-coloured ones.
The Kurds of the valleys employ beasts of burden for carrying their
crops, as well as waggons, which are however very simple and clumsy.
The body is formed of several long thin stems of trees bound
together; the axles of shorter stems, with disks of thick board for
wheels, of which each waggon has generally only two. Four oxen are
yoked to these, each pair being led by a guide, who sits very oddly
on the shaft between the yoke, with his back towards them.
Late in the evening, we reached Oromia safely, after a hard ride of
more than sixteen hours. I had no letters to any of the
missionaries, and with the exception of Mr. Wright, they were all
absent. They lived with their wives and children in the country.
However, Mr. Wright received me with true Christian friendship, and
after many disagreeable days I again found comfort.
The first evening I laughed heartily when Mr. Wright told me in what
manner the servant had informed him of my arrival. As I did not
know enough of Persian to be able to tell the servant to announce
me, I merely pointed to the stairs. He understood this, and went up
to his master, saying that there was a woman below who could not
speak any language. Afterwards I asked a servant for a glass of
water, in English; he rushed up stairs as if he had been possessed,
not, as I thought, to get what I wanted, but to tell his master that
I spoke English.
Mr. Wright acquainted the other missionaries of my presence, and
they were so good as to come and visit me. They also invited me to
spend a few days with them in the country, but I accepted their
friendly invitation for one day only, as I had already lost so much
time on the road. They all advised me not to go any further alone;
although they admitted that the most dangerous part of the journey
was past, and recommended me to take with me some armed peasants
when passing the mountains near Kutschie.
Mr. Wright was so good as to look out for a courageous and trusty
guide. I paid double fare, in order to reach Tebris in four,
instead of six days. In order to make the guide think that I was a
poor pilgrim, I gave Mr. Wright the half of the agreed price, and
begged him to pay it instead of myself, and also to say that he
would be paid the other half by Mr. Stevens, the English consul.
I made as good use as possible of the day which I passed at Oromia.
In the morning I visited the town, and afterwards I visited, with
Mrs. Wright, several rich and poor families, in order to observe
their mode of life.
The town contains 22,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by walls, but
not closed by gates; it is possible to pass in and out at any hour
of the night. It is built like all Turkish towns, with this
exception--that the streets are rather broad, and kept clean.
Outside the town are numerous large fruit and vegetable gardens,
which are surrounded by very high walls; pretty dwelling-houses
stand in the centre of the gardens.
The women here go closely veiled. They cover over their heads and
breast with a white kerchief, in which thick impenetrable network is
inserted, at the places opposite the eyes.
In the houses of the poorer classes two or three families live under
one roof. They possess little more than straw mats, blankets,
pillows, and a few cooking utensils, not to forget a large wooden
box in which the meal, their chief property, is kept. Here as
everywhere else where corn is cultivated, bread is the principal
food of the common people. Every family bake twice daily, morning
and evening.
Many of the small houses have very pretty courts, which are planted
with flowers, vines, and shrubs, and looked like gardens.
The dwellings of the wealthy are lofty, airy, and spacious; the
reception rooms have a large number of windows, and are covered with
carpets. I saw no divans, people always lie upon the carpets. As
we made the visits without being invited, we found the women in very
plain coloured cotton dresses, of course, made in their own fashion.
In the afternoon I rode with the missionaries to their large
country-house, which is situated about six miles from the town, on
some low hills. The valley through which we rode was very large,
and altogether well cultivated and delightful. Although it is said
to lie about 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, cotton, castor-
oil plants, vines, tobacco, and every kind of fruit grow here as in
South Germany. The castor-oil plant, indeed, is not more than four
feet high, and the cotton but one foot; they produce, however,
rather abundantly. Several villages are half hid in orchards. I
came into this country at a fortunate time: there were beautiful
peaches, apricots, apples, grapes, etc., true fruits of my native
country, of which I had long been deprived.
The house of the missionary society is most charmingly situated; it
commands a view of the whole valley, the town, the low range of
hills, and the mountains. The house itself is large, and furnished
with every possible convenience, so that I thought I was in the
country-house of wealthy private people, and not under the roof of
simple disciples of Christ. There were four women here, and a whole
troop of children, great and small. I passed several very pleasant
hours among them, and was heartily sorry that I was obliged to take
leave of them at 9 in the evening.
Several native girls were also introduced to me who were educated by
the wives of the missionaries. They spoke and wrote a little
English, and were well acquainted with geography. I cannot avoid,
on this occasion, making some observations with regard to the
missionaries, whose mode of life and labours I had frequent
opportunities of observing during my journey. I met with
missionaries in Persia, China, and India, and everywhere found them
living in a very different manner to what I had imagined.
In my opinion the missionaries were almost, if not complete martyrs,
and I thought that they were so absorbed with zeal and the desire to
convert the heathen, that, like the disciples of Christ, quite
forgetting their comforts and necessaries, they dwelt with them
under one roof, and ate from one dish, etc. Alas! these were
pictures and representations which I had gathered out of books; in
reality the case was very different. They lead the same kind of
life as the wealthy: they have handsome dwellings, which are fitted
up with luxurious furniture, and every convenience. They recline
upon easy divans, while their wives preside at the tea-table, and
the children attack the cakes and sweetmeats heartily; indeed their
position is pleasanter and freer from care than that of most people;
their occupation is not very laborious, and their income is certain,
whatever may be the national or political condition of their
country.
In places where several missionaries reside meetings are held three
or four times a week. These meetings or assemblies are supposed to
be for the transaction of business; but are not much other than
soirees, at which the ladies and children make their appearance in
elegant full dress. One missionary receives his friends at
breakfast, a second at dinner, the third at tea, several equipages
and a number of servants stand in the court-yard.
Business is also attended to: the gentleman generally retire for
half an hour or so; but the greater part of the time is passed in
mere social amusement.
I do not think that it can be easy to gain the confidence of the
natives in this way. Their foreign dress, and elegant mode of life,
make the people feel too strongly the difference of rank, and
inspire them with fear and reserve rather than confidence and love.
They do not so readily venture to look up to people of wealth or
rank, and the missionaries have consequently to exert themselves for
some time until this timidity is overcome. The missionaries say
that it is necessary to make this appearance, in order to create an
impression and command respect; but I think that respect may be
inspired by noble conduct, and that virtue will attract men more
than external splendour.
Many of the missionaries believe that they might effect a great deal
by preaching and issuing religious tracts in the native language in
the towns and villages. They give the most attractive report of the
multitude of people who crowd to hear their preaching and receive
their tracts, and it might reasonably be thought that, according to
their representations, at least half of their hearers would become
converts to Christianity; but unfortunately the listening and
receiving tracts is as good as no proof at all. Would not Chinese,
Indian, or Persian priests have just as great troops of hearers if
they appeared in their respective national costume in England or
France, and preached in the language of those countries? Would not
people flock round them? would they not receive the tracts given out
gratis, even if they could not read them?
I have made the minutest inquiries in all places respecting the
results of missions, and have always heard that a baptism is one of
the greatest rarities. The few Christians in India, who here and
there form villages of twenty or thirty families, have resulted
principally from orphan children, who had been adopted and brought
up by the missionaries; but even these require to be supplied with
work, and comfortably attended to, in order to prevent them from
falling back into their superstitions.
Preaching and tracts are insufficient to make religious doctrine
understandable, or to shake the superstitions which have been
imbibed in infancy. Missionaries must live among the people as
fathers or friends, labour with them--in short, share their trials
and pleasures, and draw them towards them by an exemplary and
unpretending mode of life, and gradually instruct them in a way they
are capable of understanding. They ought not to be married to
Europeans for the following reasons:--European girls who are
educated for missionaries frequently make this their choice only
that they be provided for as soon as possible. If a young European
wife has any children, if she is weak or delicate, they are then
unable to attend any longer to their calling, and require a change
of air, or even a journey to Europe. The children also are weak,
and must be taken there, at latest in their seventh year. Their
father accompanies them, and makes use of this pretext to return to
Europe for some time. If it is not possible to undertake this
journey, they go to some mountainous country, where it is cooler, or
he takes his wife and family to visit a Mela. {287} At the same
time, it must be remembered that these journeys are not made in a
very simple manner: as mine has been, for instance; the missionary
surrounds himself with numerous conveniences; he has palanquins
carried by men, pack-horses, or camels, with tents, beds, culinary,
and table utensils; servants and maids in sufficient number. And
who pays for all this? Frequently poor credulous souls in Europe
and North America, who often deny themselves the necessaries of
life, that their little savings may be squandered in this way in
distant parts of the world.
If the missionaries were married to natives, the greater part of
these expenses and requirements would be unnecessary; there would be
few sick wives, the children would be strong and healthy, and would
not require to be taken to Europe. Schools might be established
here and there for their education, although not in such a luxurious
manner as those at Calcutta.
I hope that my views may not be misunderstood; I have great respect
for missionaries, and all whom I have known were honourable men, and
good fathers; I am also convinced that there are many learned men
among them, who make valuable contributions to history and
philosophy, but whether they thus fulfil their proper object is
another question. I should consider that a missionary has other
duties than those of a philosopher.
For my own part, I can only express my obligations to the
missionaries; everywhere they showed me the greatest kindness and
attention. Their mode of life certainly struck me, because I
involuntarily associate with the name "missionary" those men who at
first went out into the world, without support, to diffuse the
doctrines of Christ, taking nothing with them but a pilgrim's staff.
Before concluding my description of Oromia, I must remark that this
neighbourhood is considered to be the birth-place of Zoroaster, who
is said to have lived 5,500 years before the birth of Christ, and
was the founder of the sect of Magi, or fire-worshippers.
On the 1st of August, I rode ten hours to the village of Kutschie,
which lies near the Lake Oromia; we seldom caught sight of the lake,
although we were always very near to it all day. We passed through
large, fertile villages, which would have presented a charming
prospect if they had not been situated between barren and naked
hills and mountains.
I had not enjoyed so pleasant a day during the whole journey from
Mosul, or from Baghdad. My guide was a remarkably good fellow, very
attentive to me, and provided everything carefully when we reached
Kutschie; he took me to a very cleanly peasant's cottage, among some
excellent people; they immediately laid down a nice carpet for me on
a small terrace, brought me a basin of water to wash, and a quantity
of large black mulberries on a lacquered plate. Afterwards I had
some strong soup with meat, fat, sour milk, and good bread, all in
clean vessels; but what was better than all, the people retired as
soon as they had set the food before me, and did not stare at me as
if I was a strange animal. When I offered to pay these good people,
they would not take anything; I had no opportunity of rewarding them
until the following morning, when I took two men of the family as
guard across the mountains, and gave them twice as much as they are
generally paid; they thanked me, with touching cordiality, and
wished me safety and good fortune on my journey.
2nd August. It occupied three hours to pass the most dangerous part
of these desolate mountains. My two armed men would not, indeed,
have afforded me much protection against a band of robbers, although
they were the means of making the journey less terrible than it
would have been if I had gone with my old guide alone. We met
several large caravans, but all going towards Oromia.
When we had crossed the mountains, the two men left us. We entered
into enormous valleys, which seemed to have been forgotten by
nature, and deserted by man. In my opinion, we were not in any
degree out of the danger, and I was right; for, as we were passing
three ruined cottages in this barren valley, several fellows rushed
out upon us, laid hold of our horses' reins, and commenced rummaging
my luggage. I expected nothing but an order to dismount, and
already saw my little property lost. They talked with my guide, who
told them the tale which I had imposed upon him--that I was a poor
pilgrim, and that the English consuls or missionaries paid all my
travelling expenses. My dress, the smallness of my baggage, and
being alone, agreed perfectly with this; they believed him, and my
silent supplicative look, and let me go; they even asked me if I
would have some water, of which there is a scarcity in these
villages. I begged them for a draught, and so we parted good
friends. Nevertheless I was for some time fearful that they might
repent their generosity and follow us.
We came to the shores of the lake again today, and continued to
travel for some time at its side. After a ride of fourteen hours,
we rested at a chan in the village of Schech-Vali.
3rd August. The oppressive sense of fear was now at an end. We
passed through peaceful inhabited valleys, where the people were
working in the fields, carrying home corn, tending cattle, etc.
During the hot noon hours we rested at Dise-halil, a rather
considerable town, with very clean streets; the principal street is
intersected by a clear brook, and the court-yards of the houses
resemble gardens. Here also I saw outside the town a great number
of very large gardens surrounded by high walls.
From the number of chans, this town would appear to be very much
visited. In the small street through which we passed, I counted
more than half a dozen. We dismounted at one of them, and I was
quite astonished at the conveniences which I found there. The
stalls were covered; the sleeping-places for the drivers were on
pretty walled terraces; and the rooms for travellers, although
destitute of all furniture, were very clean, and furnished with
stoves. The chans were open to every one, and there is nothing to
pay for using them; at the utmost, a small trifle is given to the
overseer, who provides the travellers' meals.
In this respect, the Persians, Turks, and the so-called uncultivated
people, are much more generous than we are. In India, for example,
where the English build bungalows, travellers must pay a rupee per
night, or even for an hour, which does not include any provision for
the driver or the animals: they are obliged to take their rest in
the open air. The travellers who are not Christians are not allowed
to come into most of the bungalows at all; in a few they are
admitted, but only when the rooms are not required by a Christian;
if, however, one should arrive at night, the poor unbeliever is
obliged to turn out for him without pity. This humane custom
extends also to the open bungalows, which consist only of a roof and
three wooden walls. In the countries of the unbelievers, however,
those who come first have the place, whether they are Christians,
Turks, or Arabs; indeed, I am firmly convinced, that if all the
places were occupied by unbelievers, and a Christian was to come,
they would make room for him.
In the afternoon, we went as far as Ali-Schach, a considerable
place, with a handsome chan.
We here met with three travellers, who were also going to Tebris.
My guide agreed to travel with them, and that we should start at
night. Their society was not very agreeable to me, for they were
well armed, and looked very savage. I should have preferred waiting
until daybreak, and going without them, but my guide assured me that
they were honest people; and trusting more to my good fortune than
his word, I mounted my horse about 1 o'clock at night.
4th August. I soon lost my fear, for we frequently met small
parties of three or four persons, who would scarcely have ventured
to travel at night if the road had been dangerous. Large caravans
also, of several hundred camels, passed us and took up the road in
such a way, that we were obliged to wait for half an hour to allow
them to pass.
Towards noon we entered a valley in which lay a town, which was
certainly large, but of such an unpretending appearance, that I did
not at once inquire what was its name. The nearer we approached the
more ruined it appeared. The walls were half fallen, the streets
and squares full of heaps of rubbish, and many of the houses were in
ruins; it seemed as if a pestilence or an enemy had destroyed it.
At last I asked its name, and could hardly believe that I had
understood it rightly when I was told that it was Tebris.
My guide conducted me to the house of Mr. Stevens, the English
consul, who, to my vexation, was not in the town, but ten miles away
in the country. A servant, however, told me that he would go
directly to a gentleman who could speak English. In a very short
time he came, and his first questions were: "How did you come here,
_alone_? Have you been robbed? Have you parted from your company
and only left them in the town?" But when I gave him my pass, and
explained everything to him, he appeared scarcely to believe me. He
thought it bordered upon the fabulous that a woman should have
succeeded, without any knowledge of the language, in penetrating
through such countries and such people. I also could not be too
thankful for the evident protection which Providence had afforded
me. I felt myself as happy and lively as if I had taken a new lease
of my life.
Doctor Cassolani showed me to some rooms in Mr. Stevens's house, and
said that he would immediately send a messenger to him, and I might
meanwhile make known my wants to him.
When I expressed to him my astonishment at the miserable appearance
and ugly entrance to this town, the second in the country, he told
me that the town could not be well seen from the side at which I
came in, and that the part which I saw was not considered the town,
but was chiefly old and, for the most part, deserted.