TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS--MY MEETING WITH THE BURDON FAMILY--THE
DIFFERENT CLASSES OF WOMEN AMONG THE NATIVE POPULATION IN INDIA--
UDJEIN--CAPTAIN HAMILTON--INTRODUCTION AT COURT--MANUFACTURE OF ICE--
THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ADJUNTA--A TIGER HUNT--THE ROCK TEMPLES OF
ELORA--THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD.
14TH February. The camels were ordered at 5 o'clock in the morning,
but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with a
driver. When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-five pounds in
weight), they were quite puzzled to know what to do with it. It was
useless my explaining to them how the luggage is carried in Egypt,
and that I had been accustomed to carry very little with me on my
own animal: they were used to a different plan, and would not
depart from it.
Travelling on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome. The
jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill
effects as the rocking of a ship on the sea; but in India it is
almost unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the
arrangements. Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and
takes the best place; the traveller has only a little space left for
him on the hinder part of the animal.
Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience as
well as I could. He told me that I should fall in with Captain
Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a more
convenient conveyance from him. I followed his advice, allowed my
luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel.
We passed through extensive plains, which were most remarkable for
some considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake,
near to which lay a very pretty palace. Towards evening, we reached
the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night.
In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are
neither roads nor arrangements for travelling; although in every
village and town there are people appointed whose business it is to
direct travellers on their way and carry their luggage, for which
they are paid a small fee. Those travellers who have a guard from
the king or aumil (governor), or a cheprasse with them, do not pay
anything for this attendance; others give them a trifle for their
services, according as the distance is greater or less.
When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their services--
for I travelled with the king's people, and in this part of the
country a European woman is a rarity. They brought me wood, milk,
and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished: at the
best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only
rice, with water and salt. A leathern vessel for water, a little
saucepan for boiling in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread,
were all that I took with me.
15th February. Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a small
place surrounded by low mountains. I found here some tents
belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant. Terribly
fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest
myself. Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the maid
came into the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading
me about with her hands. I would have stopped her, but she
explained to me that when a person was fatigued it was very
refreshing. For a quarter of an hour she pressed my body from head
to foot vigorously, and it certainly produced a good effect--I found
myself much relieved and strengthened. This custom of pressing and
kneading is very common in India, as well as in all Oriental
countries, especially after the bath; and Europeans also willingly
allow themselves to be operated upon.
The maid informed me, partly by signs, partly by words, that I had
been expected since noon; that a palanquin stood ready for me, and
that I could sleep as well in it as in the tent. I was rejoiced at
this, and again started on my journey at 11 o'clock at night. The
country was indeed, as I knew, infested with tigers, but as several
torch-bearers accompanied us, and the tigers are sworn enemies of
light, I could composedly continue my uninterrupted sleep. About 3
o'clock in the morning, I was set down again in a tent, which was
prepared for my reception, and furnished with every convenience.
16th February. This morning I made the acquaintance of the amiable
family of the Burdons. They have seven children, whom they educate
chiefly themselves. They live very pleasantly and comfortably,
although they are wholly thrown on their own resources for
amusement, as there are, with the exception of Dr. Rolland, no
Europeans in Kottah. It is only very rarely that they are visited
by officers who may be passing through, and I was the first European
female Mrs. Burdon had seen for four years.
I passed the most delightful day in this family circle. I was not a
little astonished to find here all the conveniences of a well-
regulated house; and I must take this opportunity of describing, in
few words, the mode of travelling adopted by the English officers
and officials in India.
In the first place, they have tents which are so large, that they
contain two or three rooms; one which I saw was worth more than 800
rupees (80 pounds). They take with them corresponding furniture,
from a footstool to the most elegant divan; in fact, nearly the
whole of the house and cooking utensils. They have also a multitude
of servants, every one of whom has his particular occupation, which
he understands exceedingly well. The travellers, after passing the
night in their beds, about 3 o'clock in the morning either lie or
sit in easy palanquins, or mount on horseback, and after four or
five hours' ride, dismount, and partake of a hot breakfast under
tents. They have every household accommodation, carry on their
ordinary occupations, take their meals at their usual hours, and
are, in fact, entirely at home.
The cook always proceeds on his journey at night. As soon as the
tents are vacated, they are taken down and quickly removed, and as
quickly re-erected: there is no scarcity of hands or of beasts of
burden. In the most cultivated countries of Europe, people do not
travel with so much luxury and ease as in India.
In the evening, I was obliged to take my departure again. Captain
Burdon very kindly offered me the use of his palanquin and the
necessary bearers as far as Indos, but I pitied the people too much,
and declared that I did not find travelling on camels unpleasant;
that in fact, on account of the open view, that mode was to be
preferred to palanquins. However, on account of my little
portmanteau, I took a third camel. I left the sepoys behind here.
This evening we went eight miles towards the little town Patan.
17th February. It was not till this morning that I saw Patan was
situated on a romantic chain of hills, and possesses several
remarkably handsome temples, in the open halls belonging to which
are placed sculptured stone figures, the size of life. The
arabesques and figures on the pillars were sharply executed in
relief. In the valleys which we passed through, there was a large
quantity of basaltic rock and most beautifully crystallized quartz.
Towards evening, we reached Batschbachar, a miserable little town.
18th February. Rumtscha is somewhat larger and better. I was
obliged to put up my bed in the middle of the bazaar under an open
verandah. Upon this road there were no caravansaries. Half of the
inhabitants of the town gathered round me, and watched all my
motions and doings with the greatest attention. I afforded them an
opportunity of studying the appearance of an angry European female,
as I was very much displeased with my people, and, in spite of my
slight knowledge of the language, scolded them heartily. They
allowed the camels to go so lazily, that although we had travelled
since early in the morning until late in the evening, we had not
gone more than twenty or twenty-two miles, not faster than an ox-
waggon would have gone. I made them understand that this negligence
must not happen again. I must now take occasion to contradict those
persons who affirm that the camel can travel on the average eighty
miles daily, and that even when they go slowly, their steps are very
long. I examine every circumstance very accurately, and then form
an opinion from my own experience, without allowing myself to be
misled by what has been written about it. Before commencing a
journey, I observe not only the principal distances, but also those
between the individual places, arrange a plan of my journey with the
help of friends who are acquainted with the subject, and by this
means have the advantage over my driver, who cannot persuade me that
we have gone forty or sixty miles, when we have not gone more than
half this distance. Moreover, I was able, while travelling from
Delhi to Kottah by the ox-waggon, to observe several camel
equipages, which I fell in with every evening at the same night
station. It is true that I had most excellent oxen, and that the
camels were ordinary; but in this journey, with good camels, I did
not go more than thirty, or at the utmost, thirty-two miles in the
day, and travelled from 4 o'clock in the morning until 6 in the
evening, without any other stoppage than two hours at noon. A camel
which is able to travel eighty miles in a day is an exception to the
general rule, and would scarcely perform such a feat the second or
third time.
19th February. Ranera is an unimportant place. I was here offered
a cow-stall to sleep in. It was indeed kept very clean; but I
preferred sleeping in the open air.
Till a late hour of the night this town was very lively:
processions of men and a number of women and children followed the
noise of the tam-tam, which they accompanied with a wild, howling
song, and proceeded to some tree, under which an image of an idol
was set up.
We had on this day to cross several ranges of low hills. The
uncultivated ground was everywhere scorched up by the sun; {209}
nevertheless, the plantations of poppies, flax, corn, and cotton,
etc., grew very luxuriantly. Water-dykes were let into the fields
on every side, and peasants, with their yokes of oxen, were engaged
in bringing water from the wells and streams. I did not see any
women at work.
In my numerous journeys, I had an opportunity of observing that the
lot of the poorer classes of women in India, in the East, and among
coloured people generally, was not so hard as it is believed to be.
In the towns where Europeans reside, for example, their linen is
washed and prepared by men; it is very seldom that it is necessary
for women to take part in out-door labour; they carry wood, water,
or any other heavy burdens only in their own houses. At harvest
time, indeed, the women are seen in the fields, but there also they
only do the lighter kind of work. If carriages with horses or oxen
are seen, the women and children are always seated upon them, and
the men walk by the side, often laden with bundles. When there are
no beasts of burden with the party, the men carry the children and
baggage. I also never saw a man ill use his wife or child. I
heartily wish that the women of the poorer classes in my own country
were treated with only half the consideration which I saw in all
other parts of the world.
20th February. Udjein on the Seepa, one of the oldest and best
built towns of India, is the capital of the kingdom of Sindhia, with
a population of more than 100,000 souls.
The architecture of this town is quite peculiar: the front walls of
the houses, only one story high, are constructed of wood, and
furnished with large regular window openings in the upper part,
which are securely closed by beams, instead of glass. In the
interior, the apartments are built very lofty and airy: they have
the full height from the level of the ground to the roof, without
the interruption of an intermediate arch. The outer walls and beams
of the houses are painted with a dark brown oil colour, which gave
to the town an indescribably dusky appearance.
Two houses were remarkable for their size and the uncommonly fine
execution of the wood carvings. They contained two stories, and
were very tastefully ornamented with galleries, pillars, friezes,
niches, etc. As far as I could learn from the answers I received to
my questions, and the numerous servants and soldiers walking about
before them, they were the palaces of the aumil and the Queen Widow
of Madhadji-Sindhia.
We passed through the entire town; the streets were broad, the
bazaars very extensive, and so overcrowded with men, that we were
frequently compelled to stop; it happened to be a large market.
Upon such occasions in India, as well as at great festivals and
meetings of people, I never once saw any one intoxicated, although
there was no lack of intoxicating drinks. The men here are
temperate, and restrain themselves, yet without forming into
societies.
Outside the town I found an open verandah, in which I took up my
quarters for the night.
I was here a witness of a deplorable scene, a consequence of an
erroneous religious belief of the otherwise amiable Hindoos. Not
far from the verandah lay a fakir, outstretched upon the earth,
without any signs of life; many of the passers-by stopped, looked at
him, and then went on their way. No one spoke to or helped him.
The poor man had sunk exhausted on this spot, and was no longer
capable of saying to what caste he belonged. I took heart,
approached him, and raised the head-cloth, which had fallen over a
part of his face; two glassy eyes stared at me. I felt the body; it
was stiff and cold. My help came too late.
The next morning the corpse still lay in the same place. I was
informed that they waited to see if any relations would come to
carry it away, if not it would be removed by the pariahs.
21st February. In the afternoon I reached Indor, the capital of the
kingdom of Holkar.
As I approached the dwelling of the Europeans, I found them just
about to ride out. The equipage of the resident, Mr. Hamilton, to
whom I had letters, was distinguishable from the others by its
greater splendour. Four beautiful horses were harnessed to an open
landau, and four servants, in Oriental liveries, ran by the side of
the carriage. The gentlemen had scarcely perceived my approach,
when they stopped, and sent a servant towards me; they, perhaps,
wished to know what chance had thrown a solitary European female
into this remote country. My servant, who already had the letter to
Mr. Hamilton in his hand, hastened to him directly, and gave it to
him. Mr. Hamilton read it hastily through, alighted from his
carriage immediately, came and received me very cordially. My
shabby clothes, faded by the sun, were of no account to him, and he
did not treat me with less respect, because I came without much
baggage, and without a train of attendants.
He conducted me himself to the bungalow, set apart for strangers,
offered me several rooms, and remained until he saw that the
servants had properly provided all conveniences. After he had given
me a servant for my own exclusive use, and had ordered a guard
before the bungalow, in which I was about to live alone, he took his
departure, and promised to send for me to dinner in an hour.
A few hundred paces distant from the bungalow is the palace of the
resident; it is a building of very great beauty, constructed of
large, square stones, in a pure Italian style of architecture.
Broad flights of steps led up into halls which are peculiarly
remarkable for their magnitude and beautifully arched roofs, the
latter being finer than any that I had yet seen. The saloons,
rooms, and internal arrangements corresponded to the high
expectations which the sight of the outside raised.
It was a Sunday, and I had the pleasure of finding the whole
European society of Indor assembled at the house of the resident.
It consisted of three families. My astonishment at the magnificence
surrounding me, at the luxuries at table, was yet more increased
when a complete, well-trained band of musicians commenced playing
fine overtures and some familiar German melodies. After dinner Mr.
Hamilton introduced the chaplain to me, a Tyrolese, named Naher.
This active man had established his chapel in the space of three
years, the congregation consisting chiefly of young natives.
I was invited to be present on the following morning at the first
operation performed here, by a European surgeon, on a patient under
the influence of ether. A large tumour was to be extracted from the
neck of a native. Unfortunately the inhalation did not turn out as
was expected: the patient came to again after the first incision,
and began shrieking fearfully. I hastily left the room, for I
pitied the poor creature too much to bear his cries. The operation
indeed was successful, but the man suffered considerable pain.
During breakfast, Mr. Hamilton proposed that I should exchange my
apartments in the bungalow for a similar one in his palace, because
the going backwards and forwards at each meal time was very
fatiguing. He placed at my disposal the rooms of his wife, who was
deceased, and appointed me a female servant.
After tiffen (lunch) I was to see the town, and be presented at
court. I employed the intermediate time in visiting Mr. and Mrs.
Naher. The latter, who was also a German, was moved even to tears
when she saw me: for fifteen years she had not spoken with a
fellow-countrywoman.
The town of Indor contains nearly 25,000 inhabitants; it is not
fortified; the houses are built in the same manner as those in
Udjein.
The royal palace stands in the centre of the town, and forms a
quadrangle. The middle of the front rises in the form of a pyramid,
to the height of six stories. A remarkably lofty and very handsome
gateway, flanked on both sides by round and somewhat projecting
towers, leads into the court-yard. The exterior of the palace is
completely covered with frescoes, for the most part representing
elephants and horses, and from a distance they present a good
appearance. The interior is separated into several courts. In the
first court, on the ground floor, is situated a saloon, surrounded
by two rows of wooden pillars. The Durwar (ministerial council) is
held here. In the first story of the same building a fine open
saloon is appropriated to the use of some sacred oxen.
Opposite this cattle-stall is the reception-room. Dark stairs,
which require to be lighted in broad daylight, lead to the royal
apartments. The stairs are said to be equally dark in almost all
the Indian palaces; they believe it is a security against enemies,
or, at least, that it makes their entrance more difficult. In the
reception saloon sat the queen, Jeswont-Rao-Holcar, an aged,
childless widow; at her side her adopted son, Prince Hury-Rao-
Holcar, a youth of fourteen years, with very good-natured features
and expressive eyes. Seats, consisting of cushions, were placed for
us by their side. The young prince spoke broken English, and the
questions which he put to me proved him to be well acquainted with
geography. His mundsch, {212a} a native, was represented as a man
of intelligence and learning. I could not find an opportunity,
after the audience, of complimenting him upon the progress which the
prince had made. The dress of the queen and of the prince consisted
of white Dacca muslin; the prince had several precious stones and
pearls upon his turban, breast, and arms. The queen was not veiled,
although Mr. Hamilton was present.
All the apartments and passages were crowded with servants, who,
without the slightest ceremony, came into the audience-hall, that
they might observe us more closely; we sat in a complete crowd.
We were offered sweetmeats and fruits, sprinkled with rosewater, and
some attar of roses was put upon our handkerchiefs. After some time
areca nuts and betel leaves were brought on silver plates, which the
queen herself handed to us; this is a sign that the audience is at
an end, and visitors cannot leave until it is made. Before we got
up to go, large wreaths of jasmine were hung round our necks, and
small ones round our wrists. Fruits and sweetmeats were also sent
home to us.
The queen had given the mundsch directions to conduct us round the
whole of the palace. It is not very large, and the rooms, with the
exception of the reception-saloon, are very simple, and almost
without furniture; in each, cushions covered with white muslin lie
upon the floor.
As we stood upon the terrace of the house, we saw the prince ride
out. Two servants led his horse, and a number of attendants
surrounded him. Several officers accompanied him upon elephants,
and mounted soldiers closed the procession. The latter wore wide
white trousers, short blue jackets, and handsome round caps; they
looked very well. The people raised a low murmur when they saw the
prince, as an indication of their pleasure.
The mundsch was good enough to show me the mode adopted for making
ice. The proper time for this is during the months of December and
January; although, even in the month of February, the nights, and
especially the early hours of the morning before sun-rise, are so
cold, that small quantities of water are covered with a thin sheet
of ice. For this purpose, either shallow pits are dug in earth rich
in saltpetre, {212b} and small shallow dishes of burnt porous clay
are filled with water, and placed in these pits, or when the soil
does not contain any saltpetre, the highest terraces on the houses
are covered with straw, and the little dishes of water are placed up
there. The thin crusts of ice thus obtained are broken into small
pieces, a little water is poured over them, and the whole is put
into the ice-houses, which are also lined with straw. This mode of
obtaining ice is already practised in Benares.
Mr. Hamilton was so obliging as to make the arrangements for the
continuance of my journey. I could have had the royal camels again,
but preferred a car with oxen, as the loss of time was
inconsiderable, and the trouble far less. Mr. Hamilton himself made
the contract with the driver, pointed out the stations at which we
should stop between this and Auranjabad (230 miles), gave me an
excellent servant and sepoy, furnished me with letters, and even
asked me if I had sufficient money. This excellent man did all this
with so much amiability, that, in fact, I scarcely knew whether the
kindnesses or the way in which they were offered, were most to be
admired. And not only in Indor, but everywhere else that he was
known, I heard his name always mentioned with the most profound
respect.
On the 23rd of February I left Indor on my way to the little village
of Simarola. The road led through delightful groves of palm-trees
and richly cultivated land. In Simarola, I found a pretty and
comfortably furnished tent, which Mr. Hamilton had sent on, in order
to surprise me with a good night station. I silently thanked him
most heartily for his care.
24th February. From Simarola the country was truly picturesque. A
narrow ledge of rock, in some places scarcely broad enough for the
road, led down a considerable declivity {213} into small valleys, on
the sides of which beautiful mountains towered up. The latter were
thinly wooded; among the trees I was particularly struck by two
species, the one with yellow, the other with red flowers; both of
them, very singularly, were quite destitute of leaves.
On this side of Kottah the camel trains were less frequent, in
consequence of the very stony state of the road; instead of these,
we met trains of oxen. We passed some today of incredible extent.
I do not exaggerate when I affirm that I have seen trains of several
thousand head of cattle, on whose backs, corn, wool, salt, etc.,
were conveyed. I cannot imagine where the food for so many animals
is obtained; there are nowhere any meadows, for, with the exception
of the plantations, the ground is scorched up, or at most covered
with thin, parched, jungle grass, which I never saw any animal eat.
The industry of the women and children in the villages through which
these trains pass is great beyond measure; they provide themselves
with baskets, and follow the train for a considerable distance,
collecting the excrement of the oxen, which they work up into flat
bricks, and dry them in the sun to use as fuel. Late in the
evening, we entered the village of Burwai, which lies on the river
Nurbuda, in the midst of a storm of thunder and lightning. I was
told that there was a public bungalow here, but as the darkness of
the night prevented our finding it, I contented myself with the
balcony of a house.
25th February. We had this morning to cross the river Nurbuda,
which, with the preparations for doing so, occupied two hours.
26th February. Rostampoor. Between this place and Simarola, the
land is rather barren, and also very thinly inhabited; we often
travelled several miles without seeing a village.
27th February. Today we were gratified with the prospect of a
fertile country and beautiful mountains. On an isolated mountain
was situated the famous old fortress of Assergur, from which arose
two half-decayed minarets. Towards evening we passed between many
ruins; amongst which I observed another handsome mosque, the fore-
court, the minarets, and side walls of which were standing.
Adjoining this district of ruins, lay the very flourishing town of
Berhampoor, which still numbers 60,000 inhabitants, but I was told
that it was formerly much larger.
An aumil resides in the town, and also an English officer, who keeps
an eye on his proceedings. We were obliged to pass through the
whole town, through the deep river Taptai, up and down hill, and
over shocking roads, to reach the bungalow of the latter, so that we
did not arrive there till late at night. Captain Henessey and his
family were already supping: they received me with true cordiality,
and, although worn out with fatigue, and much travel-stained, I took
my place at their hospitable table, and continued a conversation
with this amiable family until a late hour of the night.
28th February. Unfortunately I was obliged to proceed on my journey
again this morning. Between Berhampoor and Ichapoor, there were the
most beautiful and varied plantations--corn, flax, cotton, sugar-
cane, poppies, dahl, etc. The heat had already began to be
oppressive (towards 108 degrees Fah.) I was at the same time
continually on the road from 4 o'clock in the morning, till 5 or 6
in the evening, and only seldom made a short halt on the banks of
some river, or under a tree. It was altogether impossible to travel
at night, as the heaths and jungles were frequently of great extent,
and moreover, somewhat infested with tigers, the presence of which
we experienced on the following day; besides all this, my people
were unacquainted with the road.
29th February. Today's stage was one of the most considerable; we
therefore started as early as 3 o'clock in the morning; the road
passed through terrible wastes and wild jungles. After we had
proceeded for some time quietly, the animals stopped short and
remained as if fixed to the ground, and began to tremble; their fear
soon communicated itself to my people, who shouted, without
intermission, the words "Bach! bach!" which means "Tiger! tiger!" I
ordered them to continue making as much noise as possible, in order
to scare away the animals if they really were near. I had some
jungle grass gathered and made a fire, which I kept constantly
blazing. However, I heard no howling, and observed no other
indication of our dreaded neighbour than the terror of my people and
cattle. Nevertheless, I awaited the sunrise this time with great
anxiety, when we continued our journey. We afterwards learnt that
scarcely a night passes in this neighbourhood without an ox, horse,
or goat being carried off by tigers. Only a few days previously, a
poor woman who was late in returning from gathering jungle grass,
had been torn to pieces. All the villages were surrounded with high
stone and mud walls, whether from fear of the wild beasts, or from
any other cause, I could not learn with certainty. These fortified
villages extend as far as Auranjabad, over a distance of 150 miles.
March 1st. Bodur is an unimportant village. Upon the road from
Indor to Auranjabad, there are no bungalows with rooms, and it is
very seldom that even an open one is to be found--that is, a
building with three wooden walls, over which a roof is thrown. We
found one of these bungalows in Bodur. It was indeed already taken
possession of by about a dozen Indian soldiers, but they withdrew
unasked, and gave up to me half of the airy chamber. During the
whole night they remained still and quiet, and were not the
slightest annoyance.
2nd March. Furdapoor, a small village at the foot of beautiful
mountains. As the poor oxen began to be wearied with travelling,
the driver rubbed them down every evening from head to foot.
3rd March. Adjunta. Before coming to this place we passed a
terrible rocky pass which might be easily defended. The road was
very narrow, and so bad that the poor animals could scarcely make
any way with the empty cars. On the heights of the pass, a strongly
fortified gate was placed, which closed the narrow road; it was,
however, left open in time of peace. The low ground and the heights
on the sides were rendered inaccessible by strong and lofty walls.
The view became more delightful at every step: romantic valleys and
ravines, picturesque masses and walls of rock lay on both sides,
immeasurable valleys spread themselves out behind the mountains,
while in front the view swept over an extensive open plain, at the
commencement of which lay the fortress of Adjunta. We had already
reached it at about 8 o'clock in the morning. Captain Gill resides
in Adjunta, and I had letters of introduction to him from Mr.
Hamilton. When I expressed a wish, after the first greeting was
over, to visit the famous rock temples of Adjunta, he deeply
regretted that he had not received a letter from me four-and-twenty
hours sooner, as the temples were nearer to Furdapoor than to
Adjunta. What was to be done? I was resolved upon seeing them, and
had but little time to lose, so I decided upon retracing my way. I
only provided myself with a small stock of provisions, and
immediately mounted one of the horses from the captain's stable,
which brought me past the rocky pass in a good hour. The road
towards the temples here turns off to the right into desolate,
barren mountain valleys, whose death-like stillness was unbroken by
the breathing of an animal, or the song of a bird. This place was
well calculated to raise and excite expectations.
The temples, twenty-seven in number, are excavated in tall
perpendicular cliffs, which form a semicircle. In some of the
cliffs there are two stories of temples, one over the other; paths
lead to the top, but these are so narrow and broken, that one is
frequently at a loss where to set the foot. Beneath are terrible
chasms, in which a mountain stream loses itself; overhead, the
smooth rocky surface extends several hundred feet in height. The
majority of the temples are quadrangular in form, and the approach
to the interior is through verandahs and handsome gateways, which,
from being supported on columns, appear to bear the weight of the
whole mass of rock. These temples are called "Vihara." In the
larger one I counted twenty-eight, in the smallest eight pillars.
On one, and sometimes on both side-walls, there is a very small dark
cell, in which most probably the priest lived. In the background,
in a large and lofty cell, is the sanctuary. Here are gigantic
figures in every position; some measure more than eighteen feet, and
nearly reach to the roof of the temple, which is about twenty-four
feet high. The walls of the temples and verandahs are full of idols
and statues of good and evil spirits. In one of the temples, a
battle of giants is represented. The figures are above life size,
and the whole of the figures, columns, verandahs and gateways, are
cut out of the solid rock. The enormous number and remarkable
beauty of the sculptures and reliefs on the columns, capitals,
friezes, gateways, and even on the roof of the temples, is indeed
most astonishing; the variety in the designs and devices is
inexhaustible. It appears incredible that human hands should have
been able to execute such masterly and gigantic works. The Brahmins
do, indeed, ascribe their origin to supernatural agencies, and
affirm that the era of their creation cannot be ascertained.
Remains of paintings are found on the walls, ceiling, and pillars,
the colours of which are brighter and fresher than those of many
modern works of art.
The second class of temples have an oval form, and have majestic
lofty portals leading immediately into the interior; they are called
chaitya. The largest of these temples has on each side a colonnade
of nineteen pillars--the smallest, one of eight; in these there are
no verandahs, no priest's cells, and no sanctuaries. Instead of the
latter, a high monument stands at the extremity of the temple. Upon
one of these monuments an upright figure of the deity Buddha is
sculptured in a standing position. On the walls of the larger
temple gigantic figures are hewn out of the solid rock, and under
these a sleeping Buddha, twenty-one feet in length.
After I had wandered about here for some hours, and had seen enough
of each of the temples, I was led back to one of them, and saw there
a small table well covered with eatables and drinkables, inviting me
to a welcome meal. Captain Gill had been so kind as to send after
me a choice tiffen, together with table and chairs, into this
wilderness. Thus refreshed and invigorated, I did not find the
return fatiguing. The house in which Captain Gill lives at Adjunta
is very remarkably situated: a pleasant little garden, with flowers
and shrubs, surrounds the front, which commands a view of a fine
plain, while the back stands upon the edge of a most fearful
precipice, over which the dizzy glance loses itself among steep
crags and terrible gorges and chasms.
As Captain Gill had learnt that I wished to visit the famous
fortress of Dowlutabad, he told me that no one was admitted without
the permission of the commander of Auranjabad; but, to spare my
going out of my way (as the fortress lies on this side of
Auranjabad), he offered to send a courier there immediately, and
order him to bring the card of admission to me at Elora. The
courier had to travel altogether a distance of 140 miles--70 there
and as many back. I looked upon all these attentions as the more
obliging, as they were shown to me--a German woman, without
distinction or attractions--by English people.
4th March. At 4 o'clock in the morning, the good captain joined me
at the breakfast table; half an hour later, I was seated in my
waggon and travelling towards the village of Bongeloda, which I
reached the same day.
5th March. Roja is one of the most ancient towns of India. It has
a gloomy aspect; the houses are one story high, and built of large
square stones, blackened by age; the doors and windows are few in
number and irregularly situated.
Outside the town lay a handsome bungalow with two rooms; but, as I
was informed that it was occupied by Europeans, I decided upon not
going there, and took up my quarters for the night under the eaves
of a house.
The country between this and Adjunta is a flat plain; the parched
heaths and poor jungles are interspersed with beautiful plantations.
The land near Pulmary was especially well cultivated.
6th March. Early in the morning, I mounted a horse for the purpose
of visiting the equally-renowned rock temples of Elora (ten miles
from Roja). But, as it frequently happens in life that the proverb,
"man proposes and God disposes," proves true, such was the case in
the present instance--instead of the temples, I saw a tiger-hunt.
I had scarcely left the gates of the town behind, when I perceived a
number of Europeans seated upon elephants, coming from the bungalow.
On meeting each other, we pulled up, and commenced a conversation.
The gentlemen were on the road to search for a tiger-lair, of which
they had received intimation, and invited me, if such a sport would
not frighten me too much, to take part in it. I was greatly
delighted to receive the invitation, and was soon seated on one of
the elephants, in a howdah about two feet high, in which there were
already two gentlemen and a native--the latter had been brought to
load the guns. They gave me a large knife to defend myself with, in
case the animal should spring too high and reach the side of the
howdah.
Thus prepared, we approached the chain of hills, and, after a few
hours, were already pretty near the lair of the tigers, when our
servants cried out quite softly, "Bach, bach!" and pointed with
their fingers to some brushwood. I had scarcely perceived the
flaming eyes which glared out of one of the bushes before shots were
fired. Several balls took effect on the animal, who rushed,
maddened, upon us. He made such tremendous springs, that I thought
every moment he must reach the howdah and select a victim from among
us. The sight was terrible to see, and my apprehensions were
increased by the appearance of another tiger; however, I kept myself
so calm, that none of the gentlemen had any suspicion of what was
going on in my mind. Shot followed shot; the elephants defended
their trunks with great dexterity by throwing them up or drawing
them in. After a sharp contest of half an hour, we were the
victors, and the dead animals were triumphantly stripped of their
beautiful skins. The gentlemen politely offered me one of them as a
present; but I declined accepting it, as I could not postpone my
journey sufficiently long for it to be dried. They complimented me
on my courage, and added, that such sport would be extremely
dangerous if the elephants were not particularly well trained; above
all, they must not be afraid of the tigers, nor even stir from the
spot; for, if they ran away, the hunters would be upset by the
branches of the trees, or be left hanging upon them, when they would
certainly become the victims of the bloodthirsty animals. It was
too late to visit the temples today, and I therefore waited till the
next morning.
The temples of Elora lie on that kind of table-land which is
peculiar to India. The principal temple, Kylas, is the most
wonderful of all those which are hewn out of the rock. It
surpasses, in magnitude and finish, the best specimens of Indian
architecture; it is, indeed, affirmed to have claims to precedence
over the marvellous buildings of the ancient Egyptians. The Kylas
is of conical form, 120 feet in height and 600 in circumference.
For the construction of this masterwork, a colossal block was
separated from the solid rock by a passage 240 feet long and 100
broad. The interior of the temple consists of a principal hall (66
feet long by 100 broad), and several adjoining halls, which are all
furnished with sculptures and gigantic idols; but the real
magnificence consists in the rich and beautiful sculptures on the
exterior, in the tastefully-executed arabesques, and in the fine
pinnacles and niches, which are cut out on the tower. The temple
rests on the backs of numerous elephants and tigers, which lie next
to each other in peaceful attitudes. Before the principal entrance,
to which several flights of steps lead, stand two figures of
elephants above life-size. The whole is, as has been said before,
hewn from a single mass of rock. The cliff from which this immense
block was separated surrounds the temple, on three sides, at a
distance of 100 feet, forming colossal perpendicular walls, in
which, as at Adjunta, enormous colonnades, larger and smaller
temples, from two to three stories high, are excavated. The
principal temple is called Rameswur, and somewhat exceeds in size
the largest vichara at Adjunta; its breadth is ninety-eight feet, it
extends into the rock 102 feet, and the height of the ceiling is
twenty-four feet; it is supported by twenty-two pilasters, and
covered with the most beautiful sculptures, reliefs, and colossal
gods, among which the principal group represents the marriage of the
god Ram and the goddess Seeta. A second vichara, nearly as handsome
as this last, is called Laoka; the principal figure in this is
Shiva.
Not far distant, a number of similar temples are excavated in
another rock. They are much more simple, with unattractive portals
and plain columns; therefore, not to be compared with those at
Adjunta. This task would have been impossible if the rock had been
granite or a similar primitive foundation; unfortunately, I could
not ascertain what the rock was, I only examined the pieces which
were here and there chipped off, and which were very easily broken.
It is not with the less astonishment that one contemplates these
surprising works, which will always be considered as inimitable
monuments of human ingenuity.
The temple of Kylas is, unfortunately, somewhat decayed from age and
the destructive action of the weather. It is a sad pity that the
only monument of this kind in the world will, by-and-bye, fall into
ruins. Towards 11 o'clock in the morning I returned to Roja, and
immediately continued my journey to the famous fortress Dowlutabad,
having safely received the admission in Roja.
The distance was only eight miles; but the roads were execrably bad,
and there was a mountain-pass to cross similar to that near Adjunta.
The fortress, one of the oldest and strongest in India, is
considered as the most remarkable of its kind, not only in the
Deccan but in all India. It presents a most imposing aspect, and is
situated upon a peak of rock 600 feet high, which stands isolated in
a beautiful plain, and appears to have been separated from the
adjoining mountains by some violent natural convulsion. The
circumference of this rock amounts to about a mile. It is cut round
perpendicularly to a height of 130 feet and thirty feet below the
top of the moat by which it is surrounded, which cutting is equally
perpendicular, so that the whole height of the escarpment is 160
feet, and the rock, consequently, inaccessible. There is no pathway
leading to the fortress, and I was, therefore, extremely curious to
know by what means the summit was reached. In the side of the rock
itself was a very low iron door, which is only visible in time of
peace, as the ditch can be filled a foot above its level when
required. Torches were lighted, and I was carefully conducted
through narrow low passages, which led with numerous windings
upwards through the body of the rock. These passages were closed in
many places by massive iron gates. Some considerable distance above
the precipitous part of the rock, we again emerged into the open
air; narrow paths and steps, protected by strongly-fortified works,
led from this place to the highest point. The latter was somewhat
flattened, (140 feet in diameter), completely undermined, and so
contrived, that it could be heated red-hot. A cannon, twenty-three
feet long, was planted here.
At the foot of this fortress are scattered numerous ruins, which, I
was told, were the remains of a very important town; nothing is left
of it now except the fortified walls, three or four feet deep, which
must be passed to reach the peak of rock itself.
In the same plain, but near to the range of mountains, standing on a
separate elevation, is a considerably larger fortress than
Dowlutabad, but of far inferior strength.
The numerous fortresses, as well as the fortified towns, were, as I
here learned, the remnants of past times, when Hindostan was divided
into a great number of states, continually at war with each other.
The inhabitants of the towns and villages never went out unarmed;
they had spies continually on the watch; and to secure themselves
from sudden attacks, drove their herds inside the walls every night,
and lived in a continual state of siege. In consequence of the
unceasing warfare which prevailed, bands of mounted robbers were
formed, frequently consisting of as many as ten or twelve thousand
men, who too often starved out and overcame the inhabitants of the
smaller towns, and completely destroyed their young crops. These
people were then compelled to enter into a contract with these wild
hordes, and to buy themselves off by a yearly tribute.
Since the English have conquered India, peace and order have been
everywhere established; the walls decay and are not repaired; the
people indeed frequently wear arms, but more from habit than
necessity.
The distance from Dowlutabad to Auranjabad was eight miles. I was
already much fatigued, for I had visited the temples, ridden eight
miles over the mountain pass, and mounted to the top of the fortress
during the greatest heat; but I looked forward to the night, which I
preferred passing in a house and a comfortable bed, rather than
under an open verandah; and, seating myself in my waggon, desired
the driver to quicken the pace of his weary oxen as much as
possible.