DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA--ENTRANCE INTO THE GANGES--RAJMAHAL--GUR--
JUNGHERA--MONGHYR--PATNA--DEINAPOOR--GESIPOOR--BENARES--RELIGION OF
THE HINDOOS--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--PALACES AND TEMPLES--THE HOLY
PLACES--THE HOLY APES--THE RUINS OF SARANTH--AN INDIGO PLANTATION--A
VISIT TO THE RAJAH OF BENARES--MARTYRS AND FAKIRS--THE INDIAN
PEASANT--THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT.
On the 10th of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I
left Calcutta for Benares. The journey may be performed either by
land, or else by water, on the Ganges. By land, the distance is 470
miles; by water, 800 miles during the rainy season, and 465 miles
more during the dry months, as the boats are compelled to take very
circuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds,
into the Ganges.
The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men,
who, like horses, are changed every four or six miles. The
traveller proceeds by night as well as day, and at each station
finds people ready to receive him, as a circular from the post-
office is always sent a day or two before, to prepare them for his
arrival. At night the train is increased by the addition of a
torch-bearer, to scare off the wild beasts by the glare of his
torch. The travelling expenses for one person are about 200 rupees
(20 pounds), independent of the luggage, which is reckoned
separately.
The journey by water can be accomplished in steamers, one of which
leaves almost every week for Allahabad (135 miles beyond Benares).
The journey occupies from fourteen to twenty days, as, on account of
the numerous sand-banks, it is impossible for the vessel to proceed
on her course except in the day-time, and even then it is by no
means unusual for her to run aground, especially when the water is
low.
The fares to Benares are: first cabin, 257 rupees (25 pounds 14s.);
second cabin, 216 rupees (21 pounds 12s.). Provisions, without wine
or spirits, three rupees (6s.) a day.
As I had heard so much of the magnificent banks of the Ganges, and
of the important towns situated on them, I determined to go by
water.
On the 8th of December, according to the advertisement, the steamer
"General Macleod," 140 horse-power, commanded by Captain Kellar, was
to leave her moorings; but on going on board, I received the
gratifying intelligence that we should have to wait twenty-four
hours, which twenty-four hours were extended to as much again, so
that we did not actually set off before 11 o'clock on the morning of
the 10th. We first proceeded down the stream to the sea as far as
Katcherie, and on the following day we rounded Mud Point, and
entered the Sonderbunds, where we beat about as far as Culna. From
there we proceeded up the Gury, a large tributary stream flowing
into the Ganges below Rumpurbolea. During the first few days, the
scenery was monotonous to the highest degree; there were neither
towns nor villages to be seen; the banks were flat, and the prospect
everywhere bounded by tall, thick bushes, which the English term
_jungles_, that is to say, "virgin forests." For my own part, I
could see no "virgin forests," as by this term I understand a forest
of mighty trees. During the night, we heard, from time to time, the
roaring of tigers. These animals are pretty abundant in these
parts, and frequently attack the natives if they happen to remain
out late wooding. I was shown the tattered fragment of a man's
dress, hung upon a bush, to commemorate the fact of a native having
been torn to pieces there by one of these beasts. But they are not
the only foes that man has to dread here; the Ganges contains quite
as deadly ones, namely--the ravenous crocodiles. These may be seen
in groups of six or eight, sunning themselves on the slimy banks of
the river or on the numerous sandbanks. They vary in length from
six to fifteen feet. On the approach of the steamer, several
started up, affrighted by the noise, and glided hastily into the
dirty yellow stream.
The different branches of the Sonderbunds and the Gury are often so
narrow that there is hardly room for two vessels to pass each other;
while, on the other hand, they frequently expand into lakes that are
miles across. In spite, too, of the precaution of only proceeding
by day, on account of the numerous sandbanks and shallows, accidents
are of frequent occurrence. We ourselves did not come off scot
free. In one of the narrow branches I have alluded to, while our
vessel was stopped to allow another to pass, one of the two ships
that we had in tow came with such violence against the steamer, that
the sides of a cabin were driven in: luckily, however, no one was
injured.
In another arm of the river, two native vessels were lying at
anchor. The crews were somewhat slow in perceiving us, and had not
time to raise their anchors before we came puffing up to them. The
captain did not stop, as he thought there was room to pass, but
turned the steamer's head so far in shore, that he ran into the
bushes, and left some of the blinds of the cabin-windows suspended
as trophies behind him, whereat he was so enraged, that he
immediately dispatched two boats to cut the poor creatures' hawsers,
thereby causing them to lose their anchors. This was another action
worthy of a European!
Near Culna (358 miles from the sea), we entered the Gury, a
considerable tributary of the Ganges, which it flows into below
Rumpurbolea. The jungles here recede, and their place is occupied
by beautiful plantations of rice, and other vegetables. There was,
too, no scarcity of villages, only the huts, which were mostly built
of straw and palm-leaves, were small and wretched. The appearance
of the steamer soon collected all the inhabitants, who left their
fields and huts and greeted it with loud huzzas.
15th December. This evening we struck, for the first time, on a
sandbank. It cost us some trouble before we could get off again.
16th December. We had entered the Ganges yesterday. At a late hour
this evening we hove to near the little village of Commercolly. The
inhabitants brought provisions of every description on board, and we
had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the prices of the
various articles. A fine wether cost four rupees (8s.); eighteen
fowls, a rupee (2s.); a fish, weighing several pounds, an anna
(1.5d.); eight eggs, an anna; twenty oranges, two annas (3d.); a
pound of fine bread, three beis (ld.); and yet, in spite of these
ludicrously cheap prices, the captain charged each passenger three
rupees (6s.) a-day for his board, which was not even passable! Many
of the passengers made purchases here of eggs, new bread, and
oranges, and the captain was actually not ashamed to let these
articles, which were paid for out of our own pockets, appear at his
table that we all paid so dearly for.
18th December. Bealeah, a place of considerable importance, noted
for the number of its prisons. It is a depot for criminals, {158a}
who are sent here from all parts. The prisoners here cannot be so
desirous of escaping as those in Europe, for I saw numbers of them,
very slightly ironed, wandering about in groups or alone, in the
place itself and its vicinity, without having any gaolers with them.
They are properly taken care of, and employed in various kinds of
light work. There is a paper manufactory, which is almost entirely
carried on by them.
The inhabitants appeared to possess a more than usual degree of
fanaticism. I and another passenger, Herr Lau, had gone to take a
walk in the place, and were about to enter a small street in which
there was a Hindoo temple; but no sooner, however, did the people
perceive our intention, than they set up a horrible yelling, and
pressed on us so closely, that we held it advisable to restrain our
curiosity and turn back.
19th December. Today we perceived the low ranges of the Rajmahal
Hills, the first we had seen since we left Madras. In the evening,
we were again stuck fast upon a sandbank. We remained tolerably
quiet during the night, but, as soon as it was morning, every
possible means were adopted to get us off again. The vessels we had
in tow were cast off, our steam got up to its highest pitch; the
sailors, too, exerted themselves indefatigably, and at noon we were
stuck just as fast as we were the evening before. About this time,
we perceived a steamer on its way from Allahabad to Calcutta; but
our captain hoisted no signals of distress, being very much vexed
that he should be seen by a comrade in such a position. The captain
of the other vessel, however, offered his assistance of his own
accord but his offer was coldly and curtly refused, and it was not
until after several hours of the most strenuous exertion that we
succeeded in getting off the bank into deep water.
In the course of the day, we touched at Rajmahal, {158b} a large
village, which, on account of the thick woods and numerous swamps
and morasses around it, is reckoned a most unhealthy place.
It was here that Gur, one of the largest towns of India, once stood.
It is said to have been twenty square miles in extent, and to have
contained about two millions of inhabitants, and, according to the
latest books of travels, the most splendid and considerable ruins
are still to be seen there. Those of the so-called "Golden Mosque"
are especially remarkable, being very fine and faced with marble;
the gateways are celebrated for their great width of span and the
solidity of their side walls.
As there was, fortunately, a depot for coals here, we were allowed a
few hours to do as we liked. The younger passengers seized the
opportunity to go out shooting, being attracted by the splendid
forests, the finest I had as yet seen in India. It was certainly
reported that they were very much infested with tigers, but this
deterred no one.
I also engaged in the chase--although it was one of a different
description. I penetrated far and wide, through forest and swamp,
in order to discover the ruins. I was successful; but how meagre
and wretched they were! The most important were those of two common
city-gates, built of sandstone and ornamented with a few handsome
sculptures, but without any arches or cupolas. One inconsiderable
temple, with four corner towers, was in several places covered with
very fine cement. Besides these, there were a few other ruins or
single fragments of buildings and pillars scattered around, but all
of them together do not cover a space of two square miles.
On the border of the forest, or some hundred paces farther in, were
situated a number of huts belonging to the natives, approached by
picturesque paths running beneath shady avenues of trees. In
Bealeah, the people were very fanatic, while here the men were very
jealous. At the conclusion of my excursion, one of the gentlemen
passengers had joined me, and we directed our steps towards the
habitations of the natives. As soon as the men saw my companion,
they called out to their wives, and ordered them to take refuge in
the huts. The women ran in from all directions, but remained very
quietly at the doors of their dwellings to see us pass, and quite
forgot to conceal their faces while they did so.
In these parts, there are whole woods of cocoa-palms. This tree is
properly a native of India, where it attains a height of eighty
feet, and bears fruit in its sixth year. In other countries, it is
scarcely fifty feet high, and does not bear fruit before it is
twelve or fifteen years old. This tree is, perhaps, the most useful
one in the known world. It produces large and nutritious fruit,
excellent milk, large leaves that are used for covering in and
roofing huts, materials for strong cordage, the clearest oil for
burning, mats, woven stuffs, colouring matter, and even a kind of
drink called surr, toddy, or palm brandy, and obtained by incisions
made in the crown of the tree, to which, during an entire month, the
Hindoos climb up every morning and evening, making incisions in the
stem and hanging pots underneath to catch the sap which oozes out.
The rough condition of the bark facilitates considerably the task of
climbing up the tree. The Hindoos tie a strong cord round the trunk
and their own body, and another round their feet, which they fix
firmly against the tree; they then raise themselves up, drawing the
upper rope with their hands and the lower one with the points of
their feet, after them. I have seen them climb the highest trees in
this manner with the greatest ease in two minutes at the most.
Round their bodies they have a belt, to which are suspended a knife
and one or two small jars.
The sap is at first quite clear, and agreeably sweet, but begins, in
six or eight hours' time, to ferment, and then assumes a whitish
tint, while its flavour becomes disagreeably acid. From this, with
the addition of some rice, is manufactured strong arrack. A good
tree will yield above a gallon of this sap in four-and-twenty hours,
but during the year in which the sap is thus extracted, it bears no
fruit.
21st December. About 80 miles below Rajmahal, we passed three
rather steep rocks rising out of the Ganges. The largest is about
sixty feet high; the next in size, which is overgrown with bushes,
is the residence of a Fakir, whom the true believers supply with
provisions. We could not see the holy man, as it was beginning to
grow dark as we passed. This, however, did not cause us so much
regret, as that we were unable to visit the Botanical Garden at
Bogulpore, which is said to be the finest in all India; but as there
was no coal depot at Bogulpore, we did not stop.
On the 22nd of December, we passed the remarkable mountain scenery
of Junghera, which rises, like an island of rocks, from the majestic
Ganges. This spot was, in former times, looked on as the holiest in
the whole course of the river. Thousands of boats and larger
vessels were constantly to be seen there, as no Hindoo believed he
could die in peace without having visited the place. Numerous
Fakirs had established themselves here, strengthening the poor
pilgrims with unctuous exhortations, and taking in return their
pious gifts. The neighbourhood has, however, at present, lost its
reputation for sanctity, and the offerings received are scarcely
sufficient to maintain two or three Fakirs.
In the evening we stopped near Monghyr, {160a} a tolerably large
town, with some old fortifications. The most conspicuous object is
a cemetery, crowded with monuments. The monuments are so peculiar,
that had I not seen similar ones in the cemeteries of Calcutta, I
should never have imagined that they belonged to any sect of
Christians. There were temples, pyramids, immense catafalques,
kiosks, etc., all massively built of tiles. The extent of this
cemetery is quite disproportioned to the number of Europeans in
Monghyr; but the place is said to be the most unhealthy in India, so
that when a European is ordered there for any number of years, he
generally takes a last farewell of all his friends.
Six miles hence, there are some hot springs, which are looked upon
by the natives as sacred.
We had lost sight of the Rajmahal Hills at Bogulpore; on both sides
of the river, nothing was now to be seen but an uninterrupted
succession of flat plains.
24th December. Patna, {160b} one of the largest and most ancient
cities of Bengal, with a population of about 300,000 souls, {161}
consists of a long, broad street, eight miles long, with numerous
short alleys running into it. The houses, which are mostly
constructed of mud, struck me as particularly small and wretched.
Under the projecting roofs are exposed for sale goods and provisions
of the simplest kind. That part of the street in which the greatest
number of these miserable shops are situated, is dignified by the
grand name of the "Bazaar." The few houses of a better description
might easily be counted without any very great trouble; they are
built of tiles, and surrounded by wooden galleries and colonnades
prettily carved. In these houses were to be found the best and
finest shops.
The temples of the Hindoos, the Ghauts (flights of steps, halls, and
gateways) on the Ganges, like the mosques of the Mahomedans, always
look a great deal better at a distance than they do on a nearer
inspection. The only objects worthy of notice which I saw here,
were a few bell-shaped mausoleums, like those in Ceylon, which they
greatly surpassed in size, although not in artistic beauty; they
were certainly more than 200 feet in circumference, and eighty feet
in height. Excessively narrow entrances, with simple doors, conduct
into the interior. On the outside, two small flights of steps,
forming a semicircle, lead up to the top. The doors were not opened
for us, and we were obliged to content ourselves with the assurance
that, with the exception of a small, plain sarcophagus there was
nothing inside.
Patna is a place of great importance, from the trade in opium, by
which many of the natives acquire large fortunes. As a general
rule, they make no display of their riches, either as regards their
clothes, or in any other public kind of luxury. There are only two
sorts of dress--one for those in easy circumstances, which is like
that of the Orientals, and one for the poorest classes, which
consists of a piece of cloth bound round the loins.
The principal street presents a bustling appearance, being much
frequented by carriages, as well as pedestrians. The Hindoos, like
the Jews, are such determined foes to walking, that they do not
think the worst place in the most wretched cart beneath their
acceptance.
The vehicles in most general use are narrow, wooden cars upon two
wheels, and composed of four posts with cross-beams. Coloured
woollen stuff is hung over these, and a kind of canopy keeps off the
sun. There is properly only room for two persons, although I have
seen three or four crowded into them. This put me in mind of the
Italians, who fill a carriage so that not even the steps are left
vacant. These cars are called baili. They are closely curtained
when women travel in them.
I expected to see the streets here full of camels and elephants,
since I had read so much about it in some descriptions: but I saw
only bailis drawn by oxen and a few horsemen, but neither camels nor
elephants.
Towards evening we drove to Deinapore, {162} which is eight miles
from Patna, along an excellent post-road, planted with handsome
trees.
Deinapore is one of the largest English military stations, and
contains extensive barracks, which almost constitute a town in
themselves. The town is but a short distance from the barracks.
There are many Mahomedans among the inhabitants, who surpass the
Hindoos in industry and perseverance.
I here saw elephants for the first time on the Indian continent. In
a serai outside the town there were eight large handsome animals.
When we returned to the ship in the evening, we found it like a
camp. All kinds of articles were brought there and laid out for
inspection; but the shoemakers were particularly numerous. Their
work appeared neat and lasting, and remarkably cheap. A pair of
men's boots, for example, cost from one and a half to two rupees
(3s. to 4s.); but it is true that twice as much is always asked for
them. I saw on this occasion the way in which the European sailors
conduct bargains with the natives. One of the engineers wanted to
buy a pair of shoes, and offered a quarter of the price asked. The
seller, not consenting to this, took his goods back; but the
engineer snatched them out of his hand, threw down a few beis more
than what he had offered, and hastened to his cabin. The shoemaker
pursued him, and demanded the shoes back; instead of which he
received several tough blows, and was threatened that if he was not
quiet he should be compelled to leave the ship immediately. The
poor creature returned half crying to his pack of goods.
A similar occurrence took place on the same evening. A Hindoo boy
brought a box for one of the travellers, and asked for a small
payment for his trouble; he was not listened to. The boy remained
standing by, repeating his request now and then. He was driven
away, and as he would not go quietly, blows were had recourse to.
The captain happened to pass accidentally, and asked what was the
matter. The boy, sobbing, told him; the captain shrugged his
shoulders, and the boy was put out of the ship.
How many similar and even more provoking incidents have I seen? The
so-called "barbarian and heathen people" have good reason to hate
us. Wherever the Europeans go they will not give any reward, but
only orders and commands; and their rule is generally much more
oppressive than that of the natives.
26th December. The custom of exposing dying people on the banks of
the Ganges, does not appear to be so general as some travellers
state. We sailed on the river for fourteen days, during which time
we passed many thickly populated towns and villages, and did not
meet with a single case until today. The dying man lay close to the
water, and several men, probably his relations, were seated round
him, awaiting his decease. One dipped water and mud out of the
river with his hands, and put them to the nose and mouth of the
dying man. The Hindoos believe that if they die at the river with
their mouths full of the holy water, they are quite certain to go to
heaven. His relations or friends remain by the dying man till
sunset, when they go home, and leave him to his fate. He generally
falls a prey to crocodiles. I very seldom saw any floating corpses;
only two during the whole journey. Most of the corpses are burnt.
27th December. Ghazipoor is an important place, and is remarkable
at a distance for its handsome ghauts. Here stands a pretty
monument erected to the memory of Lord Cornwallis, who conquered
Tippoo Saib in 1790. Very near is a large establishment for
training horses, which is said to turn out remarkably fine ones.
But Ghazipoor is most remarkable for its enormous rose-fields, and
the rose-water and attar prepared here. The latter is obtained in
the following manner:--
Upon forty pounds of roses, with the calixes, sixty pounds of water
are poured, and the whole is distilled over a slow fire. From this,
about thirty pounds of rose-water are obtained. Another forty
pounds of roses are again added to this, and, at the utmost, twenty
pounds of water distilled off. This is then exposed during the
night to the cold air in pans, and in the morning the oil is found
swimming upon the surface and is skimmed off. Not more than an
ounce and a half of attar, at the utmost, is obtained from eighty
pounds of roses. An ounce of true attar costs, even at Ghazipoor,
40 rupees (4 pounds).
At 10 o'clock on the morning of the 28th, we at length reached the
holy town of Benares. We anchored near Radschgaht, where coolies
and camels were ready to receive us.
Before taking leave of the Ganges, I must remark that, during the
whole journey of about a thousand miles, I did not meet with a
single spot remarkable for its especial beauty, or one picturesque
view. The banks are either flat or bounded by layers of earth ten
or twenty feet in height, and, further inland, sandy plains
alternate with plantations or dried-up meadows and miserable
jungles. There are, indeed, a great number of towns and villages,
but, with the exception of occasional handsome houses and the
ghauts, they are composed of a collection of huts. The river itself
is frequently divided into several branches, and is sometimes so
broad that it resembles a sea rather than a river, for the banks are
scarcely visible.
Benares is the most sacred town of India. It is to the Hindoos what
Mecca is to the Mahomedans, or Rome to the Catholics. The belief of
the Hindoos in its holiness is such that, according to their
opinion, every man will be saved who remains twenty-four hours in
the town, without reference to his religion. This noble toleration
is one of the finest features in the religion and character of this
people, and puts to shame the prejudices of many Christian sects.
The number of pilgrims amounts annually to 300,000 or 400,000, and
the town is one of the most wealthy in the country, through their
trading, sacrifices, and gifts.
This may not be an improper place to make some remarks upon the
religion of these interesting people, which I extract from
Zimmerman's "Handbook of Travels."
"The foundation of the Hindoo faith is the belief in a superior
primitive being, immortality, and a reward of virtue. The chief
idea of God is so great and beautiful, its moral so pure and
elevated, that its equal has not been found among any other people.
"Their creed is to worship the highest Being, to invoke their
guardian gods, to be well-disposed towards their fellow-men, to pity
the unfortunate and help them, to bear patiently the inconveniences
of life, not to lie or break their word, to read the sacred
histories and to give heed to them, not to talk much, to fast, pray,
and to bathe at stated periods. These are the general duties which
the sacred writings of the Hindoos enforce, without exception, upon
all castes or sects.
"Their true and only god is called 'Brahma,' which must not be
confounded with Brahma who was created by the former, who is the
true, eternal, holy, and unchangeable light of all time and space.
The wicked are punished and the good rewarded.
"Out of the Eternal Being proceeded the goddess Bhavani, i.e.,
Nature, and a host of 1,180 million spirits. Among these there are
three demi-gods or superior spirits, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, the
Hindoo Trinity, called by them Trimurti.
"For a long time, happiness and content prevailed; but they
afterwards revolted, and many gave up their allegiance. The rebels
were cast down from on high into the pit of darkness. Hereupon
succeeded the transmigration of souls; every animal and every plant
was animated by one of the fallen angels, and the remarkable
amiability of the Hindoos towards animals is owing to this belief.
They look upon them as their fellow-creatures, and will not put any
of them to death.
"The Hindoo reverences the great purpose of nature, the production
of organized bodies, in the most disinterested and pious manner.
Everything tending to this end is to him venerable and holy, and it
is in this respect alone that he worships the Lingam.
"It may be affirmed, that the superstitions of this creed have only
gradually become an almost senseless delusion through corruption and
misunderstanding.
"In order to judge of the present state of their religion, it will
be sufficient to describe the figures of a few of their chief
deities.
"Brahma, as the creator of the world, is represented with four human
heads and eight hands; in one hand he holds the scriptures, in the
others, various idols. He is not worshipped in any temple, having
lost this prerogative on account of his ambitious desire to find out
the Supreme Being. However, after repenting of his folly, it was
permitted that the Brahmins might celebrate some festivals in his
honour, called Poutsche.
"Vishnu, as the maintainer of the world, is represented in twenty-
one different forms:--Half fish half man, as tortoise, half lion
half man, Buddha, dwarf, etc. The wife of Vishnu is worshipped as
the goddess of fruitfulness, plenty, and beauty. The cow is
considered sacred to her.
"Shiva is the destroyer, revenger, and the conqueror of Death. He
has, therefore, a double character, beneficent or terrible; he
rewards or punishes. He is generally hideously represented,
entirely surrounded by lightning, with three eyes, the largest of
which is in the forehead; he has also eight arms, in each of which
he holds something.
"Although these three deities are equal, the religion of the Hindoos
is divided into only two sects--the worshippers of Vishnu and those
of Shiva. Brahma has no peculiar sect, since he is denied temples
and pagodas; however, the whole priestly caste--the Brahmins--may be
considered as his worshippers, since they affirm that they proceeded
from his head.
"The worshippers of Vishnu have on their foreheads a red or
yellowish painted sign of the Jani; the Shiva worshippers, the sign
of the Lingam, or an obelisk, triangle, or the sun.
"333,000,000 subordinate deities are recognised. They control the
elements, natural phenomena, the passions, acts, diseases, etc.
They are represented in different forms and having all kinds of
attributes.
"There are also genii, good and evil spirits. The number of the
good exceeds that of the bad by about 3,000,000.
"Other objects are also considered sacred by the Hindoos, as rivers,
especially the Ganges, which is believed to have been formed from
the sweat of Shiva. The water of the Ganges is so highly esteemed,
that a trade is carried on in it for many miles inland.
"Among animals, they chiefly look upon the cow, ox, elephant, ape,
eagle, swan, peacock, and serpent, as sacred; among plants, the
lotus, the banana, and the mango-tree.
"The Brahmins have an especial veneration for a stone, which is,
according to Sonnerat, a fossil ammonite in slate.
"It is in the highest degree remarkable that there is no
representation of the Supreme Being to be found in all Hindostan.
The idea appears too great for them; they consider the whole earth
as his temple, and worship him under all forms.
"The adherents of Shiva bury their dead; the others either burn them
or throw them into the river."
No one can form an accurate idea of India who has not gone beyond
Calcutta. This city has become almost European. The palaces, the
equipages are European; there are societies, balls, concerts,
promenades, almost the same as in Paris or London; and if it was not
for the tawny natives in the streets, and the Hindoo servants in the
houses, a stranger might easily forget that he was in a foreign
country.
It is very different in Benares. The Europeans are isolated there;
foreign customs and manners everywhere surround them, and remind
them that they are tolerated intruders. Benares contains 300,000
inhabitants, of which scarcely 150 are Europeans.
The town is handsome, especially when seen from the river side,
where its defects are not observed. Magnificent rows of steps,
built of colossal stones, lead up to the houses and palaces, and
artistically built gateways. In the best part of the town, they
form a continuous line two miles in length. These steps cost
enormous sums of money, and a large town might have been built with
the stones employed for them.
The handsome part of the town contains a great number of antique
palaces, in the Moorish, Gothic, and Hindoo styles, many of which
are six stories high. The gates are most magnificent, and the
fronts of the palaces and houses are covered with masterly
arabesques and sculptured work; the different stories are richly
ornamented with fine colonnades, verandahs, balconies, and friezes.
The windows alone did not please me; they were low, small, and
seldom regularly arranged. All the houses and palaces have very
broad sloping roofs and terraces. The innumerable temples afford a
proof of the wealth and piety of the inhabitants of this town.
Every Hindoo in good circumstances has a temple in his house, i.e.,
a small tower, which is frequently only twenty feet high.
The Hindoo temples consist properly of a tower thirty or sixty feet
in height, without windows, and having only a small entrance. They
appear, especially at a distance, very striking and handsome, as
they are either artistically sculptured or richly covered with
projecting ornaments, such as pinnacles, small columns, pyramids,
leaves, niches, etc.
Unfortunately, many of these beautiful buildings are in ruins. The
Ganges here and there undermines the foundations, and palaces and
temples sink into the soft earth or fall entirely down. Miserable
little huts are in some places built upon these ruins, and disfigure
the fine appearance of the town, for even the ruins themselves are
still beautiful.
At sunrise, a spectacle is to be seen at the river which has not its
counterpart in the world. The pious Hindoos come here to perform
their devotions; they step into the river, turn towards the sun,
throw three handsful of water upon their heads, and mutter their
prayers. Taking into account the large population which Benares
contains, besides pilgrims, it will not be exaggeration to say that
the daily number of devotees amounts, on the average, to 50,000
persons. Numbers of Brahmins sit in small kiosks, or upon blocks of
stone on the steps, close to the water's edge, to receive the
charity of the wealthy, and grant them absolution in return.
Every Hindoo must bathe at least once in the day, and particularly
in the morning; if he is pious and has time, he repeats the ceremony
again in the evening. The women bathe at home.
At the time of the festival called Mala, when the concourse of
pilgrims is innumerable, the steps are crowded with masses of human
beings, and the river appears as if covered with black spots from
the number of the bathers' heads.
The interior of the city is far less handsome than that portion
which extends along the Ganges. It contains many palaces; but these
have not the same beautiful gateways, colonnades, and verandahs as
those already described. Many of these buildings are covered with
fine cement, and others are painted with miserable frescoes.
The streets are for the most part both dirty and ugly, and many of
them are so narrow, that there is scarcely room for a palanquin to
pass. At the corner of almost every house stands the figure of the
god Shiva.
Among the temples in the town, the handsomest is the "Bisvishas:" it
has two towers connected by colonnades, with their summits covered
with golden plates. The temple is surrounded by a wall, but we were
allowed to enter the fore-court, and to go as far as the entrance.
We saw inside several images of Vishnu and Shiva, wreathed with
flowers, and strewn over with grains of rice, wheat, etc. Small
bulls of metal or stone stood in the porch, and living white bulls
(of which I counted eight) wandered about at liberty. The latter
are considered sacred, and are allowed to roam where they please,
and are not prevented from satisfying their hunger with even the
sacrificial flowers and corn.
These sacred animals do not remain in the temples only--they wander
about the streets; and the people turn reverently out of their way,
and frequently give them fodder. They do not, however, allow them
to eat the corn exposed for sale, as was formerly the case. If one
of the sacred animals happen to die, it is either thrown into the
river or burnt. They receive in this respect the same honour as the
Hindoos themselves.
In the temple, there were men and women who had brought flowers,
with which they decorated the images. Some of them also laid a
piece of money under the flowers. They then sprinkled them over
with Ganges' water, and strewed rice and other corn about.
Near the temple are the most holy places in the town, namely--the
so-called "holy well" and the Mankarnika, a large basin of water.
The following anecdote is told of the former:--
When the English had conquered Benares, they planted a cannon before
the entrance of the temple to destroy the image of the god Mahadeo.
The Brahmins, greatly indignant at this, instigated the people to
revolt, and they hastened in numerous crowds to the temple. The
English, to prevent a disturbance, said to the people: "If your god
is stronger than the Christian God, the balls will not hurt him; but
if not, he will be broken to pieces." Of course; the latter was the
result. The Brahmins, however, did not give up their cause, but
declared that they had seen the spirit of their god leave the idol
before the cannon was fired, and plunge into the spring near at
hand. From this time the spring was considered sacred.
The Mankarnika is a deep basin, paved with stone, about sixty feet
long, and of equal breadth; broad steps lead from the four sides
into the water. A similar tradition, but connected with the god
Shiva, is attached to this place. Both deities are said to have
continued to reside in these waters down to the present day. Every
pilgrim who visits Benares must, on his arrival, bathe in this holy
pool, and, at the same time, make a small offering. Several
Brahmins are always present to receive these gifts. They are in no
way distinguished by their dress from the bulk of the better
classes, but the colour of their skin is clearer, and many of them
have very noble features.
Fifty paces from this pool, on the banks of the Ganges, stands a
remarkably handsome Hindoo temple, with three towers.
Unfortunately, the ground sunk in a few years since, and the towers
were thrown out of their proper position: one inclines to the right
and the other to the left; the third is almost sunk into the Ganges.
Among the thousand of other temples, there is here and there one
which is worth the trouble of a cursory inspection, but I would not
advise any one to go much out of their way on their account. The
place for burning the dead is very near the holy pool. When we went
there, they were just roasting a corpse--the mode of burning cannot
be described by any other name, the fire was so small, and the
corpse projected over on all sides.
Among the other buildings, the Mosque Aurang Zeb is most worthy of
the notice of travellers. It is famous on account of its two
minarets, which are 150 feet high, and are said to be the slenderest
in the world. They look like two needles, and certainly are more
deserving of the name than that of Cleopatra at Alexandria. Narrow
winding staircases in the interior lead to the top, upon which a
small platform, with a balustrade a foot high, is erected. It is
fortunate for those who are not subject to dizziness. They can
venture out, and take a bird's-eye view of the endless sea of
houses, and the innumerable Hindoo temples; the Ganges also, with
its step quays, miles long, lies exposed below. I was told that on
very clear, fine days, a distant chain of mountains was perceivable--
the day was fine and clear, but I could not see the mountains.
The observatory is a very remarkable and artistic building. It was
built by Dscheising, under the intelligent Emperor Akbar, more than
two centuries since. There are no ordinary telescopes to be found
there: all the instruments are constructed of massive blocks of
stone. Upon a raised terrace, to which stone steps lead, stand
circular tables, semicircular and quadratic curves, etc. which are
covered with signs, writing, and lines. With these instruments, the
Brahmins made, and still make, their observations and calculations.
We met with several Brahmins busily engaged with calculations and
written treatises.
Benares is on the whole the chief seat of Indian learning. Among
the Brahmins, 6,000 in number, I was told there were many who give
instruction in astronomy, Sanscrit, and other scientific subjects.
The sacred apes are another of the curiosities of Benares. Their
principal location is upon some of the immense mango-trees in the
suburbs of Durgakund. The animals seemed as if they knew we had
come to see them, for they approached quite close to us; but when
the servant, whom I had sent for some food for them, returned, and
called them to him, it was amusing to see the merry creatures come
running from the trees, the roofs of the houses, and the streets.
We were in a moment closely surrounded by several hundreds, who
fought together in the most comical manner for the fruits and grain.
The largest or oldest acted as commander. Wherever there was
quarrelling, he rushed in, and commenced thrashing the combatants,
threatening them with his teeth, and making a muttering sound, upon
which they immediately separated. It was the largest and most
comical party of monkeys I ever saw. They were generally more than
two feet high, and their skins were a dirty yellow colour.
My kind host took me one day to Sarnath (five miles from Benares),
where there are some interesting ruins of three remarkably massive
towers. They are not particularly high, and stand upon three
artificially raised mounds, a mile distant from each other. Both
the mounds and towers are constructed of large bricks. The largest
of these towers is still covered in many places with stone slabs, on
which traces of arabesques are here and there visible. Numbers of
slabs lie scattered about the ground. There are no signs of any
such covering on the remaining towers. In each there is a small
door and a single apartment.
Excavations were commenced beneath these towers by the English
government in the hope of making some discoveries which would throw
light upon the origin of these buildings; but nothing was found
beyond an empty underground vault.
There is a lake close by of artificial construction, which is
supplied with water from the Ganges by a canal.
There is a very singular tradition connected with these towers and
the lake. "In very ancient times three brothers ruled here, who
were giants, and had these buildings erected and the lake excavated,
and all in one day. It must, however, be known that a day at that
time was equal to two years of modern reckoning. The giants were so
tall that they could go from one tower to the other with a step, and
the reason these were built so close was their fondness for each
other, and their desire to be always together."
An indigo plantation in the neighbourhood, the first I ever saw, was
not less interesting to me than these towers and their singular
tradition. The indigo plant is herbaceous, and from one to three
feet high, with delicate bluish-green leaves. The harvest is
generally in August; the plants are cut tolerably low on the
principal stem, tied together in bundles, and thrown into large
wooden vats. Planks are laid on the tops of the bundles weighted
with stones, and water poured on them; generally after sixteen
hours, though sometimes after several days, according to the
character of the water, fermentation commences. This is the
principal difficulty, and everything depends upon its continuance
for the proper time. When the water has acquired a dark-green
colour, it is transferred to other wooden vessels, lime added, and
the whole stirred with wooden spades until a blue deposit takes
place. After being allowed to settle, the water is poured off, and
the substance remaining behind is put into long linen bags through
which the moisture filters. As soon as the indigo is dry, it is
broken in pieces and packed.
Shortly before my departure I had the pleasure of being presented to
the Rajah through the aid of my fellow-traveller, Mr. Law. He
resides in the Citadel Rhamnughur, which lies on the left bank of
the Ganges, above the town.
A handsomely ornamented boat awaited us at the bank of the river,
and on the other side a palanquin. We soon found ourselves at the
entrance of the palace, the gateway of which is lofty and majestic.
I expected to have been gratified in the interior by the sight of
spacious courts and a handsome style of architecture, but found only
irregular courts and small unsymmetrical apartments, destitute of
all taste and luxury. In one of the courts was a plain-columned
hall on the level of the ground, which served as a reception-room.
This hall was overcrowded with glass lustres, lamps, and European
furniture; on the walls were some miserable pictures, framed and
glazed. Outside was a swarm of servants, who gazed at us with great
attention. Presently the prince made his appearance, accompanied by
his brother, and some courtiers and attendants, who could scarcely
be distinguished the one from the other.
The two princes were very richly dressed; they wore wide trousers,
long under and short over garments, all made of satin, embroidered
with gold. The elder one, aged thirty-five, wore short silk cuffs,
embroidered with gold, the edge set with diamonds; he had several
large brilliant rings on his finger, and his silk shoes were covered
with beautiful gold embroidery. His brother, a youth of nineteen,
whom he had adopted, {170} wore a white turban with a costly clasp
of diamonds and pearls. He had large pearls hanging from his ears,
and rich massive bracelets on his wrists. The elder prince was a
handsome man, with exceedingly amiable and intellectual features;
the younger one pleased me far less.
We had scarcely seated ourselves, when a large silver basin with
elaborately worked nargillys were brought, and we were invited to
smoke. We declined this honour, and the prince smoked alone; he
took only a few whiffs from the same nargilly, which was then
replaced by another handsomer one.
The behaviour of the princes was very decorous and lively. I
regretted that we could communicate only through an interpreter. He
inquired whether I had ever seen a Natsch (festival dance). On my
answering that I had not, he immediately ordered one to be
performed.
In half an hour two female dancers and three musicians appeared.
The dancers were dressed in gay gold-embroidered muslin, wide silk
trousers, embroidered with gold, which reached to the ground, and
quite covered their bare feet. One of the musicians played upon two
small drums, the other two on four-stringed instruments, similar to
our violins. They stood close behind the dancers, and played
without melody or harmony; the dancers making at the same time very
animated motions with their arms, hands, and fingers, more than with
their feet, on which they wore silver bells, which they rung at
intervals. They made handsome and graceful drapings and figures
with their over garments. This performance lasted about a quarter
of an hour, after which they accompanied the dance with singing.
The two sylphides shrieked so miserably that I was in fear for my
ears and nerves.
During the performance, sweetmeats, fruits, and sherbet (a cooling,
sweet, acidulated beverage) were handed round.
After the dance was ended, the prince asked if I would like to see
his garden, which is a mile distant from the palace. I was
indiscreet enough to accept his offer.
In company with the young prince we proceeded to the front square of
the palace, where elegantly ornamented elephants stood ready. The
elder prince's favourite elephant, an animal of uncommon size and
beauty, was destined for myself and Mr. Law. A scarlet canopy, with
tassels, fringes, and gold embroidered lace, nearly covered the
whole animal. A convenient seat was placed upon his broad back,
which might be compared to a phaeton without wheels. The elephant
was made to kneel down, a ladder was placed against his side, and
Mr. Law and myself took our places. Behind us sat a servant, who
held an enormously large umbrella over our heads. The driver sat
upon the neck of the animal, and pricked it now and then between the
ears with a sharp-pointed iron rod.
The young prince, with his attendant and servants, took their places
upon the other elephants. Several officers on horseback rode at our
side, two soldiers with drawn sabres ran in front of the party to
clear the way, and upwards of a dozen soldiers, also with drawn
sabres, surrounded us, while a few mounted soldiers brought up the
rear.
Although the motion of the elephant is quite as jolting and
unpleasant as that of the camel, this truly Indian ride afforded me
great pleasure.
When we had arrived at the garden, the young prince seemed by his
proud look to ask whether we were not charmed with its magnificence.
Our delight was unfortunately assumed, for the garden was far too
plain to deserve much praise. In the back-ground of the garden
stands a somewhat ruinous royal summer palace.
As we were about leaving the garden, the gardener brought us some
beautiful nosegays and delicious fruits--a custom universal in
India.
Outside the garden was a very large water-basin, covered with
handsome blocks of stone; broad steps led up to the water, and at
the corner stood beautiful kiosks, ornamented with tolerably well-
executed reliefs.
The Rajah of Benares receives from the English government an annual
pension of one lac, that is, 100,000 rupees (10,000 pounds). He is
said to receive as much more from his property, and nevertheless to
be very much in debt. The causes of this are his great extravagance
in clothes and jewellery, his numerous wives, servants, horses,
camels, and elephants, etc. I was told that the prince has forty
wives, about a thousand servants and soldiers, a hundred horses,
fifty camels, and twenty elephants.
On the following morning the Rajah sent to inquire how the excursion
had pleased us, and presented me with confectionery, sweetmeats, and
the rarest fruits; among others, grapes and pomegranates, which at
this time of the year are scarce. They came from Cabul, which is
about 700 miles distant from this place.
Finally, I must mention that for many years no one has died in the
palace which the Rajah occupies. The reason of this is said to be
the following:--"One of the rulers of this palace once asked a
Brahmin what would become of the soul of any one who died in the
palace. The Brahmin answered that it would go to heaven. The Rajah
repeated the same question ninety-nine times, and always received
the same answer. But on asking the hundredth time, the Brahmin lost
patience, and answered that it would go into a donkey." Since that
time every one, from the prince to the meanest servant, leaves the
palace as soon as they feel themselves unwell. None of them are
desirous of continuing after death the part which they have,
perhaps, so frequently commenced in this life.
While in Benares I had two opportunities of seeing the so-called
martyrs of the Fakirs (a priestly sect of the Hindoos). These
martyrs impose upon themselves the most various tortures: for
example, they stick an iron hook through their flesh, and have
themselves drawn up to a height of twenty or five-and-twenty feet;
or they stand several hours in the day upon one foot, and at the
same time stretch their arms in the air, or hold heavy weights in
various positions, turn round in a circle for hours together, tear
the flesh off their bodies, etc. They frequently torment themselves
so much as to be in danger of their lives. These martyrs are still
tolerably venerated by the people; however, there are at the present
time but a few more remaining. One of the two whom I saw, held a
heavy axe over his head, and had taken the bent attitude of a
workman hewing wood. I watched him for more than a quarter of an
hour; he remained in the same position as firmly and quietly as if
he had been turned to stone. He had, perhaps, exercised this
useless occupation for years. The other held the point of his foot
to his nose.
Another sect of the Fakirs condemn themselves to eat only a little
food, and that of the most disgusting kind: the flesh of oxen that
have died, half-rotten vegetables, and refuse of every kind, even
mud and earth; they say that it is quite immaterial what the stomach
is filled with.
The Fakirs all go about almost naked, smear their bodies with cow-
dung, not even excepting the face; and then strew ashes over
themselves. They paint their breasts and foreheads with the
symbolical figures of Vishnu and Shiva, and dye their ragged hair
dark reddish brown. It is not easy to imagine anything more
disgusting and repulsive than these priests. They wander about all
the streets, preaching and doing whatever they fancy; they are,
however, far less respected than the martyrs.
One of the gentlemen whose acquaintance I made in Benares, was so
obliging as to communicate to me some information as to the relation
of the peasants to the government. The peasant has no landed
property. All the land belongs either to the English government,
the East India Company, or the native princes. It is let out
altogether; the principal tenants divide it into small lots, and
sublet these to the peasants. The fate of the latter depends
entirely upon the disposition of the principal tenant. He
determines the amount of rent, and frequently demands the money at a
time when the crops are not harvested, and the peasant cannot pay;
the poor people are then obliged to sell the unripe crops for half
their worth, and their landlord generally contrives to buy it
himself in the name of another person. The unfortunate peasant
frequently has scarcely a sufficiency left to keep life in himself
and his family.
Laws and judges there certainly are in the country, and, as
everywhere else, the laws are good and the magistrates just; but it
is another question whether the poor ever receive justice. The
districts are so extensive, that the peasant cannot undertake a
journey of seventy or eighty miles; and even when he lives near, he
cannot always reach the presence of the magistrate. The business of
the latter is so great, that he cannot himself attend to the
details, and generally he is the only European in office, the
remaining officials consisting of Hindoos and Mahomedans, whose
character--a lamentable fact--is always worse the more they come in
contact with Europeans. If, therefore, the peasant comes to the
court without bringing a present, he is generally turned away, his
petition or complaint is not accepted or listened to; and how is he
to bring a present after being deprived of everything by the
landlord? The peasant knows this, and therefore seldom makes a
complaint.
An Englishman (unfortunately I have forgotten his name) who
travelled in India for scientific purposes, proves that the peasants
have now to suffer more than formerly under their native princes.
In India, under the so-called "free English government," I found a
sad proof that the position of the slaves in Brazil is better than
that of the free peasants here. The slave there has not to provide
for any of his wants, and he is never burdened with too much work,
as the interest of his master would then suffer; for a slave costs
seven or eight hundred gulders (70 or 80 pounds), and it is to the
interest of his owner that he should be well treated, that he may be
longer of service. It cannot be denied that there are cases in
which the slaves are tyrannically treated, but this is extremely
rare.
Several German and English missionaries reside in the neighbourhood
of Benares, and go constantly to the town to preach. At one of
these missionary establishments is a Christian village, which
contains more than twenty Hindoo families. Nevertheless,
Christianity makes scarcely any advance. {173} I inquired of each
of the missionaries how many Hindoos or Mahomedans they had baptized
in the course of their labours: generally they said, "None;" very
seldom, "One." The above mentioned families result from the year
1831, when nearly the whole of India was ravaged by cholera, nervous
fever, or famine; the people died, and many children remained
orphans, wandering about without a home. The missionaries took
these, and brought them up in the Christian religion. They were
instructed in all kinds of trades, were housed, married, and their
whole maintenance provided for. The descendants of these families
are continually educated by the missionaries, and strictly watched:
as to new converts, however, there are unfortunately none.
I was present at several examinations: the boys and girls seemed to
have been taught well to read, write, reckon, and were well
acquainted with religion and geography. The girls were clever
embroiderers, they did needle-work very well, and sewed all kinds of
things; the boys and men made tables, carpets, bound books, printed,
etc. The director and professor of this excellent establishment is
the missionary, Mr. Luitpold; his wife has the superintendence of
the girls. The whole is sensibly and intelligently arranged and
conducted; Mr. and Mrs. Luitpold attend to their proteges with true
Christian love. But what are a few drops in an immeasurable sea?