fifteen thousand forest trees seedlings a day is now being used at the
Letchworth Park Forest and Arboretum, in Wyoming County, N. Y.,
according to officials of the Forest Service who are acting as advisers
in the work. Previously the planting had been done by hand at the rate
of 1,200 to 1,500 trees each day per man.
The machine was designed to set out cabbage and tomato plants, but works
equally well with trees. It is about the size of an ordinary mowing
machine and is operated by three men and two horses. One man drives the
team while the other two handle the seedlings. The machine makes a
furrow in which the trees are set at any desired distance, and an
automatic device indicates where they should be dropped. Two metal-tired
wheels push and roll the dirt firmly down around the roots. This is a
very desirable feature, it is said, because the trees are apt to die if
this is not well done. Two attachments make it possible to place water
and fertilizer at the roots of each seedling. Another attachment marks
the line on which the next row of trees is to be planted.
No cost figures are available yet, but officials say that the cost will
be much less than when the planting is done by hand. It is stated that
the machine can be used on any land which has been cleared and is not
too rough to plow and harrow.--U. S. Dept. Agri.
The Greenhouse versus Hotbeds.
FRANK H. GIBBS, MARKET GARDENER, ST. ANTHONY PARK.
In discussing the subject assigned me, I will only speak of hotbeds and
hothouses as used for the purpose of growing vegetables and early
vegetable plants.
The hotbed is still very desirable where it is wanted on a small scale
to grow early vegetables for the home or market, as the small cost for
an outfit is very small as compared to hothouses. Sash 4×5 ft., which is
the favorite size with market gardeners, can be purchased for about
$2.00 each glazed, and a box 5×16 ft. to hold four sash can be made for
$1.50, making an outlay less than $10.00 for 80 sq. ft. of bed. With
good care sash and boxes will last eight years.
Where the beds are put down in early February two crops of lettuce and
one crop of cucumbers can be grown, and when the spring is late three
crops of lettuce before outdoor lettuce appears on the market, when the
beds are given over entirely to the cucumber crop. Lettuce at that time
generally sells for 25c per dozen, and cucumbers from 50c down to 15c
per dozen, according to the season. From three to five hundred cabbage,
cauliflower or lettuce plants can be grown under each sash, or from 150
to 300 tomatoes, peppers or egg plants can likewise be grown under each
sash, or where lettuce is grown to maturity six dozen per sash.
The cost of the horse manure for the beds varies greatly, as some are
situated where it can be secured very reasonably, while with others the
cost would be prohibitive. The amount required also varies according to
the season they are put down. When the beds are put down early in
February, three cords of manure are necessary for each box. When they
are put down March 1st, one-half that amount is needed. Where there is
no desire to get the early market, and the beds are put down March 15th,
one cord is plenty for each box. I have never tried to figure out just
what the cost of putting down each box is, or what is the cost of
ventilating and watering; but if they are neglected and the plants get
burned or frozen, the cost is much more than if they were given proper
attention, and, besides, much time is lost in getting another start, as
they are generally left several days to see if the plants will recover,
which they seldom do.
The cost of hothouses varies so greatly for the size of the house that
it is hard to draw a comparison. A modern steel frame house containing
10,000 sq. ft. of glass can be built for about $4,000.00, or a house
one-half that size can be built for $10,000.00 and is no better than its
cheaper rival. A small house say 16×80 ft., heated with a brick furnace
and flue and hot water coil can be built for from $350.00 to $400.00,
where one does not have to hire skilled labor. A hothouse of any size is
very satisfactory, as in cold, stormy weather, when we can't even look
into a hotbed, plants can be kept growing and there is always something
we can do and be comfortable while we are doing it. It is impossible to
use a hotbed all winter, as no matter how much manure is put into it in
the fall it will cool out and be worthless long before spring.
[Illustration: Showing hotbeds and greenhouse at F. H. Gibbs' market
gardens.]
With a good hothouse four crops of lettuce can be raised during the fall
and winter, and a crop of cucumbers in the spring and early summer.
Each crop of lettuce sells for from 20c to 25c per dozen; the plants are
set six inches apart each way, making about four per square foot of
bench room.
The cucumber crop generally pays as well as two crops of lettuce and is
usually planted to come into bearing early in June and kept bearing
through July, or until the outdoor cucumbers are on the market. In the
so-called summer just passed (1915), there were no outdoor cucumbers,
and they were kept bearing through August and September. Cucumbers grown
in hotbeds cannot be kept in bearing more than six weeks before the
vines go to pieces and will not sell for as high a price as hothouse
grown. With favorable weather I have always thought I could grow a crop
of lettuce in less time in a hotbed than in a hothouse, but with cold,
cloudy weather the advantage is on the side of the hothouse. Much less
time is required to do the ventilating and watering in a hothouse than
with beds, and the soil must be in the highest state of fertility for
either one.
While hotbeds will always be desirable in many localities on account of
the small first cost, the days of the large commercial hotbed yard is
passed, and there are now around Minneapolis 5,000 hotbed sash that will
not be put down next spring, or if put down, used only on cold frames,
all owing to the scarcity of fresh horse manure.
While it is a great satisfaction to have a hothouse or hotbeds and grow
vegetables in winter, the life of the market gardener is not one
continuous round of pleasure, as lice, white fly, red spider and thrip,
mildew and fungous rot are always ready for a fight, and the gardener
must always be on his guard and beat them to it at their first
appearance, or the labor of weeks will be lost.
An Ideal Flower Garden for a Country Home.
M. H. WETHERBEE, FLORIST, CHARLES CITY, IOWA.
In laying out grounds for country homes or remodeling them, space should
be of the first importance, and where space permits there is no better
arrangement than a fine border on one side of the lawn with a driveway
between the lawn and the border, leading from the street to the house
and barns. The border should be wide enough to have a nice variety of
shrubs for a background, and there should be space for the hardy
perennials and bulbs, which should not be planted solidly but placed in
clumps and arranged according to height and blooming season and as to
color effect.
I will mention a few of the hardy shrubs and plants that we can all grow
with success. While the catalogues are filled with a large list of
so-called hardy stock, we must remember that we live in a good sized
country and what would be hardy in Southern Iowa, Missouri and Illinois,
would not stand the winters of Northern Iowa or of Minnesota or other
localities of the same latitude. In shrubs we can be sure of a variety
of lilacs, snowballs, and hydrangea paniculata. Some of the newer
varieties are fine and bloom in August, when few other shrubs are
flowering. Spirea Van Houttii, best known as Bridal Wreath, we might
include and a few of the hardy vines if a trellis or other support was
given for them, such as clematis paniculata, coccinea and jackmani, the
large purple and white honeysuckle, Chinese matrimony vine, etc.
Among hardy roses, which are called the queen of all flowers, are the
Rugosa type, which will stand the winters with no protection and
continue to flower all summer. While the flowers of that type are single
or semi-double, the bushes would be handsome without any flowers. This
type also produces hips, which adds to their attractiveness, and these
may be made into jelly in the fall if so desired. I would advise to
plant some of the most hardy of the hybrid perpetual roses, such as
General Jacqueminot, Magna Charta, Mrs. Chas. Wood, Mrs. John Lang, Mad.
Plantier, with some of the climbers, such as the Rambler in variety,
Prairie Queen, Baltimore Belle and, perhaps, some others, with the
understanding that the hybrids and climbers should have protection in
some form for the winter months.
Then in hardy perennials there is such a variety to select from that one
hardly knows where to begin or when to stop. Of course everyone wants a
few peonies, and some of the hardy phlox, in such a variety of color.
Then the delphinium, or hardy larkspurs, are fine bloomers. The blue and
white platycodon are sure to flower, while the German iris are good and
the Japan iris are fine flowers, but have to have good protection to
stand our winters. For fine white flowers we have the showy achilleas in
variety and gypsophila paniculata, called baby breath as a common name.
Then we must have plenty of space for a variety of annuals, such as
sweet peas, cosmos, pansies, verbenas, etc. Also, we would grow
geraniums in variety, a few summer carnations, and the selection can be
large or small, but almost every one will want some dahlia and gladiolus
bulbs. Those that like yellow, or lemon, lilies can plant them and have
a mass of flowers during June. The Japan lilies, especially the rubrum
variety, are good bloomers and quite hardy.
The Planting and Care of Hardy Perennials.
MISS GRACE E. KIMBALL, WALTHAM. (SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.)
The most important essential in the planting of hardy perennials is the
preparation of the ground. It must be deeply spaded or plowed and
thoroughly pulverized. While most kinds of plants will do well in any
good garden soil, most gardens need more or less fertilizer to make the
ground good garden soil. So it is well at the time of spading or plowing
to see that enough fertilizer is applied to insure good growth and
blossom. But care must be used that no fresh stable manure comes in
contact with the roots. If it must be used see that it is put in the
bottom of the hole or trench dug for the plants, and covered several
inches with earth.
When the ground is well prepared and properly fertilized comes the
planting, and as many plants need somewhat different handling, it is
well for one starting a garden to understand just how each kind should
be set. The iris, for instance, likes to be very near the surface of the
ground. In fact it seems to delight in pushing the earth off the fleshy
part of the root and basking in the sun, while the small roots lie very
close to the surface. The oriental poppy must be planted with the crown
well above the ground, or else when any moisture settles on it the crown
will rot, and the plant die. The gaillardia, larkspur and columbine
should be planted about as the oriental poppy with the crowns perhaps
not quite as much above the ground, while the peony should be set so
that the bud is covered two or three inches.
Since fall planting of herbaceous perennials has come into prominence
one can choose either spring or fall for most of their planting, as most
plants do well set at either time. But the oriental poppy does not ship
nor transplant well in the spring. It dies down after blossoming--one
may think they have lost their plants then--and starts up again in
August or September. Just as it is starting then seems to be the safest
time to plant.
August and September are considered the best months to do fall planting,
although some advocate setting peonies until it freezes. Still I think
it safer to plant earlier than that.
If I were beginning a hardy garden, one that I could add to from time to
time, I would try to set out in the fall plants that bloom in the spring
or early summer, and in the spring those that bloom in the fall. Nothing
is gained by setting iris or peonies in the spring, for nine times out
of ten they will not bloom the same season they are set, while if set in
the fall nearly all varieties of either the iris or peony will bloom the
next year. On the other hand, phlox set in the spring scarcely ever
fails to bloom in the late summer or early fall, and keeps it up until
freezing weather. The phlox, however, should be taken up and divided
every two or three years to obtain the best results.
After planting comes the cultivating, which should be kept up all
summer. Especially after a rain should the ground be stirred to keep it
from baking. In exceedingly dry seasons by keeping a dust mulch around
the plants one can avoid having to do much watering--for unless you
water thoroughly at such a time it is better not to water at all.
However, if it finally becomes necessary to apply water, the dust mulch
has kept the ground in condition to absorb all the water that is used.
In the fall after the ground has frozen a light covering of some kind
should be thrown over the plants. This is to protect them from the
thawing and freezing that takes place from time to time during the
winter and early spring. After the first year, when the foliage has
increased so as to be some protection, it is not as necessary to cover,
although no doubt a little more covering would be beneficial. Some
growers of the peony, however, advocate cutting off the leaves in the
fall, and in such a case a covering would be necessary.
We found a very satisfactory way for both covering and fertilizing was
to throw a fork full of dressing around each plant in the fall and work
it into the ground in the spring.
IN MEMORIAM--J. F. BENJAMIN.
PASSED JULY 15, 1916. AGED 59 YEARS.
"John Franklin Benjamin was born at Belvidere, Illinois, May 6, 1857.
That same year his parents moved to Hutchinson and he, at the age of
five years, was one of the two score of little children who spent hours
of terror in the stockade when it was attacked by the Indians on
September 4, 1862. As he grew up he attended the Hutchinson school, his
boyhood being spent on the farm. He was married in October, 1889, to
Minnie L. Walker. The following year they moved to Pierce county, Neb.,
where Mr. Benjamin purchased and for ten years managed a large ranch. In
1890 they returned to Hutchinson and proceeded to open and improve
Highland Home Fruit Farm, which was thenceforth Mr. Benjamin's abiding
place until the summons came that ended all his earthly hopes and plans.
"He was an active factor in farmers' co-operative society affairs and
supported all movements for the moral and educational uplift of the
community. He had been for many years a member of the M. E. church and
of the Woodmen's and Royal Neighbors' camps and a valued and active
member of each of these societies.
[Illustration: John Franklin Benjamin.]
"Mr. Benjamin left no children, and the wife who has been his devoted
helpmate for twenty-seven years survives to face the coming years of
bereavement alone.
"His had been a useful life, a life of ceaseless and honorable toil,
and that beautiful and valuable property, Highland Home Fruit Farm,
largely the product of the work of his own hands, is a monument to his
memory which will long endure to be admired and enjoyed by others as one
of the model rural places of Minnesota. Few men in the space of
twenty-five years have accomplished more than did J. F. Benjamin in
establishing the fine, modern home, the large orchard and small fruit
and flower gardens and well stocked farm, all of which he had tended
with loving hands."
Mr. Benjamin was well known by the members of this society who have
attended its annual meetings within the last ten or fifteen years.
During this period he has been an active member of the society, often
serving on the program or in some other way as opportunity came to him.
He was one of the most loyal members of the association, practicing what
he preached, and doing all within his power to extend the usefulness of
the society. I had a close personal acquaintance with Mr. Benjamin and
the highest respect for his character and attainments. As a
comparatively young man we anticipated his presence with us for a long
period of time, but in this we are sadly disappointed. His wife in a
recent letter says, "One of his greatest pleasures was cultivating and
taking care of the flowers which surrounded his home. After a hard day's
work in the field, he would labor with his flowers and shrubbery until
far into the night. He enjoyed taking or sending flowers to the sick,
and many bouquets of his choicest blossoms he gave his friends as they
drove past or called to admire his beautiful grounds." In this spirit
Mr. Benjamin labored to reach others and widen the wholesome influence
of his life.--Sec'y.
PROGRAM 50th ANNUAL MEETING
Our Semi-Centennial Anniversary
Minnesota State Horticultural Society,
To be held in the West Hotel, Minneapolis, December 5, 6, 7, 8, 1916.
A Great Program.
Study this program carefully and select such features as you especially
desire to participate in--but you are more than welcome to all.
Discussion follows each topic.
Discussions are "free for all," whether members or not. Ask questions or
express opinions freely.
DEMONSTRATIONS.
These demonstrations will be given between 1:00 and 1:45 each day of the
meeting in rooms adjoining the hall in which the meeting is held. They
will be conducted by those whose names are here given, both of whom are
connected with the Horticultural Department at University Farm.
Grafting, Fred Haralson, Hort. Foreman. Pruning, Frank Daniels,
Instructor In Hort.
IMPORTANT.
All participants on this program are limited to fifteen minutes except
where a longer period is specifically mentioned.
Time for discussion is allowed after each number.
NOTICE OF BEE-KEEPERS' MEETING.
The Minnesota State Bee-Keepers' Society will hold its annual meeting in
the "Moorish Room," West Hotel, Minneapolis, on Tuesday and Wednesday,
Dec. 5 and 6, 1916. Program can be had of L. V. France, University Farm,
St. Paul.
NOTICE.--A bell will be rung five minutes before the exercises begin in
the Audience Room.
Persons entering the audience room when any one is addressing the
meeting from the platform are requested to take seats in the rear of the
room, going forward only after the speaker has concluded--and thus avoid
much confusion.
TUESDAY MORNING SESSION.
10:00 o'clock.
Every member attending should not fail to be in his seat promptly when
this session opens.
Invocation Rev. C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Song Mr. Trafford N. Jayne, Minneapolis
President's Annual Greeting Thos. E. Cashman, Owatonna
Top-Working Young Apple Trees.
E. G. Lee, St. Paul.
Evergreens.
C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Preparing and Handling the Apple Crop.
E. A. Smith, Lake City.
My Prize Orchard.
1. Henry Dunsmore, Olivia.
2. E. W. Mayman, Sauk Rapids.
Appointment of committees on award of premiums.
TUESDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.
1:30 o'clock.
A half hour "Question and Answer Exercise" on "Bees in the Garden and
Orchard," led by J. Kimball, of Duluth.
2 o'clock.
President Cashman in the Chair. Reception of Delegates.
FRUITS.
Strawberry Culture with Irrigation.
N. A. Rasmussen, Oskosh, Wis., President
Wisconsin State Hort. Society.
Raspberry Culture.
A. O. Hawkins, Wayzata.
Raspberry Diseases in Minnesota.
G. R. Hoerner, Asst. in Plant Pathology,
University Farm, St. Paul.
Everbearing Strawberry Field.
A. Brackett, Excelsior.
Everbearing Strawberries at Osage, Ia., in 1916.
Chas. F. Gardner, Osage, Ia.
Opening Up the Fruit Farm.
D. E. Bingham, Delegate Wisconsin
State Hort. Society, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
The Native Plum, Its Hybrids and Their Improvement.
Dewain Cook, Jeffers.
Winter Injury to Plums in 1916-17.
M. J. Dorsey, Section of Fruit Breeding,
University Farm.
Lantern Talks.
1. Snapshots on the Road. Nurseries; Top-working; Blister Rust.
Prof. F. L. Washburn, State Entomologist,
University Farm.
2. Nature of Plant Diseases.
G. R. Bisby, Asst. Plant Pathologist,
University Farm.
TUESDAY EVENING SESSION.
8:00 o'clock.
MINNESOTA STATE FLORISTS' SOCIETY.
Prof. LeRoy Cady, President, in the Chair.
Program:
Storing and Handling Gladiolus Bulbs.
G. D. Black, Delegate, N. E. Ia. State
Horticultural Society, Independence, Ia.
Resources of Present-Day Florists.
W. E. Tricker, St. Paul.
Greenhouse Management.
Prof. Wm. Moore, University Farm.
Some Native Shrubs and Their Uses.
E. Meyer, Minneapolis.
WEDNESDAY FORENOON SESSION.
9:00 o'clock.
A half hour question and answer exercise on "The Vegetable Garden,"
led by Alfred Perkins, Market Gardener, St. Paul.
9:30 o'clock.
N. H. Reeves, Pres. Minneapolis Market Gardeners' Society, presiding.
The Vegetable Garden.
A Successful Cabbage Field.
E. C. Willard, Mankato.
Hotbeds and Cold Frames Nine Months In the Year. (30 min.)
N. A. Rasmussen. Pres. Wisconsin State
Hort. Society, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
Improvement of Vegetable Varieties by Selection.
Richard Wellington, Horticulturist, University Farm.
Some Phases of Onion Growing.
W. T. Tapley, Asst. in Horticulture, University Farm.
Irrigation in the Market Garden.
C. E. Warner, Osseo.
The Cultivation of Cabbages.
Nic Lebens, Minneapolis.
Growing Radishes.
Chas. Hoffman, White Bear.
A Winter Garden In the Cellar.
N. A. Rasmussen, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
Home Canning.
Mrs. Louis M. Glenzke, Hopkins.
WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.
1:30 o'clock.
The Question and Answer Exercise to occupy this half-hour will be on
"The Flower Garden," and led by Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul.
2:00 o'clock.
President Cashman In the Chair.
My Spraying Experience--four five-minute paper.
1. Harold Simmons, Howard Lake.
2. E. Yanish, St. Paul.
3. A. H. Reed, Glencoe.
4. J. J. Dobbin, Excelsior.
Orchard Pests In Minnesota During 1916.
1. Diseases.
Prof. E. C. Stakman. Head of Section
Plant Pathology, University Farm.
2. Insects.
A. G. Ruggles, Asst. Entomologist,
University Farm.
3:15 o'clock.
MINN. GARDEN FLOWER SOCIETY.
Mrs. E. W. Gould, Pres., Minneapolis.
Some New Plants at Home and Abroad.
Professor N. E. Hansen, Brookings, S. D.
The Home Setting As the Architect Sees It.
Mr. Harry W. Jones, Minneapolis.
A Composite on Composites--Useful Plants for Fall Bloom.
Mrs. Phelps Wyman, Minneapolis.
Lantern Talk by E. G. Cheyney, Prof. of Forestry, State University.
Illustrated with many views from the forest regions of Northern
Minnesota.
WEDNESDAY EVENING SESSION.
7:30 o'clock, Dec. 6, 1916.
N. W. PEONY AND IRIS SOCIETY.
Fifteen-minute musical program by orchestra.
The Modern Iris.
Mr. C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Peonies, Their Care and Culture.
Mr. John E. Stryker, St. Paul, Minn.
Peonies for Pleasure.
Mr. Lee Bonnewitz, Van Wert, Ohio.
Peonies for Profit.
Mrs. Wm. Crawford, La Porte, Ind.
Peonies and Their Possibilities.
Mr. D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, Minn.
Music. Selection by Orchestra.
General Discussion.
THURSDAY FORENOON SESSION.
9:00 o'clock.
A thirty-minute "Question and Answer" exercise on "Success in
Orcharding," led by J. F. Harrison, a successful orchardist, Excelsior.
9:30 o'clock.
President Cashman in the Chair.
Evergreens for Prairie Homes.
M. Soholt, Madison.
Windbreaks by the Mile.
T. A. Hoverstad, Minneapolis.
Arrangement of Farm Buildings and Grounds for Convenience
and Artistic Effect.
E. M. Reeves, Waverly, Ia.
Report of Committee on Fruit List.
J. P. Andrews, G. W. Strand, T. E. Cashman.
Adoption of Fruit List.
Annual Reports.
Report of Executive Board, J. M. Underwood, Chairman, Lake City.
Report of Secretary, A. W. Latham.
Report of Treasurer, Geo. W. Strand, Taylors Falls.
On account of the very full program the annual reports of the
vice-presidents, superintendents of Trial Stations and Auxiliary
Societies, will be filed with the secretary for publication without
reading. (See list on page 20.)
The Successful Orchard. (30 min.)
S. A. Beach, Prof. of Horticulture, Iowa
State Agricultural College, Ames, Ia.