Gen. Lane to Col. Drake of the 1st, and to the Lt. Col. of the 2d Reg.
The former was ordered back; eight of his companies to be stationed at
Matamoros, and two at the mouth of the Rio Grande. I was thankful that
ours was permitted to go on. How my sympathies were aroused in favor of
the First. Many of them received our farewell with tears streaming from
their eyes.
The night of the 24th, we were uncomfortably encamped in the
deserted bed of a river. There was no other water within ten miles.
On a flooring of stones, our supper consisted of coffee and hard
crackers filled with little black bugs. This, of course, was not very
refreshing, after a hard day’s march.
There is but little soil between this and Camargo worth cultivating.
Scarcely a tree to be seen larger than the cherry. The soil is
generally rocky and sandy, in some places having indications of iron.
It produces spontaneously little else than burs, briers, thorns, and
all varieties of the cactus. The prickly pear grows in enormous piles,
more than six feet in height. The bank of this deserted channel is
about forty feet high, composed of large gravel cemented together.
_Christmas._--What a contrast between my situation here to-day and that
at home one year ago. The events of last Christmas I remember well;
but here a year after, far away, encamped in the valley of the Sierra
Madre, having marched all day with our flanks guarded by their stony
peaks. I am on duty to-night, for which a fifteen miles’ march is a
poor preparation. Everything is filled with romance. The sky unclouded,
all bespangled with brilliant stars, and the silvery moon riding forth
in the midst of this beautiful scenery.
_26th._--Having traveled sixteen miles this day, we encamped two miles
beyond Marin, on the bank of a little river. We passed through the town
of Ramus, which is said to be owned by Cannales, the celebrated robber.
In Marin there is a fine cathedral and plaza. The houses of this town
are built of stone and plaster of Paris, in which the country abounds.
Notwithstanding my being up all night previous, I went ahead of the
advanced guard all day. I thought I could get along better at my own
gait.
_27th._--And now we are at the Walnut Springs; the celebrated
battle-ground of Monterey! This has been a painful day’s march of
twenty-five miles. In eight days and a half, have we performed our
journey. No infantry ever performed the same distance in less time.
Here we are, four miles from the city, at the camp of old Rough and
Ready, who has just started with his command for Victoria.
This is a beautiful spot, with towering peaks rising majestically all
around. Here are the largest, straightest trees I have seen in the
country, forming a beautiful shade. We were hurried on in consequence
of an order to Col. Hadden, from General Lane, stating that we were to
continue our march to Saltillo, as Santa Anna was reported within two
days’ march of that place. Then, we have still a march of sixty-five
miles before us, having passed over one hundred and fifty already.
After carrying heavier burdens than troops of other states, it may be
supposed we were not very sprightly; yet I feel more able to travel on
the next day, than I did on the third day.
On that evening, being wearied, and having duties to perform, I did
not write all that I wished. Much might have been said about the
beautiful scenery that I beheld. After a hard day’s march it was quite
unpleasant, of course, to hunt wood, carry water, and cook half the
night for the next day. But, in the above instance, we had but little
to cook, our supplies having not arrived from Monterey.
_28th._--Whilst striking our tents this morning, general orders
arrived, granting a day’s respite, as the provisions could not be
secured so soon. Instead of resting, quite a number set out to visit
the city. It is truly astonishing how deceiving is the distance to the
mountains. For three days we have been marching directly towards two
mountain spurs, higher than their neighbors. After a day’s journey,
they seemed no nearer than they did in the morning. The city was four
miles off, yet beyond was a knoll that appeared no more than a hundred
yards distant. The previous evening a number of us started for this
prominence that we might gaze upon Monterey, but soon found out the
deception and returned to the encampment.
The more I examine and reflect about the numerous points of natural
defence around the city, the greater my astonishment how it could
be taken by our little army. But it is useless for me to attempt a
description of scenes connected with the exciting action that was
performed there. More interesting accounts than I can give have been
published in numerous papers of our country.
The first place of prominence which we visited was the cathedral. This
surpasses all edifices of the kind I ever saw in splendor. The images
are clothed and decorated with jewels and precious metals. Some of
the smaller paintings are framed in solid silver. The music from the
harp and deep toned organ is truly enchanting. We visited also the
fortification, the bishop’s palace, and the market. The latter abounded
in sugar cane, sweet potatoes and oranges of the most delicious flavor.
Before our return I met one of our townsmen. He belonged to the
Louisville Legion, who were stationed near Saltillo. His health was
recovered, and by his invitation we visited his quarters, the hospital.
There we saw other acquaintances pale and emaciated by disease. They
grasped our hands with warmth and tearful eyes. It was a touching
scene, and made us all thankful for the preservation of our health.
Our friend accompanied us to our camp and showed the position of the
troops, and manner of attack in the great battle. We were also much
interested in inspecting an extensive tannery. It was so clean and
convenient. There were enormous vats which were hollowed in the solid
rock, and watered by a clear stream running through the yard.
I am conscious I have not done justice to these subjects; but this
evening I am so low spirited, that I cannot write anything with ease.
My companions around are reading epistles from home, while I am
destitute of such consolation. These are unavailing regrets. I must
cease my complaints. Our provisions are come, and they must be prepared
for to-morrow’s march.
_29th._--Before day-light we were up and making ready for Saltillo. As
we passed through Monterey, much attention was attracted by our numbers
and healthy appearance. Having traveled fifteen miles we arrived at
the little town St. Catharine, situated near the mountain in the pass.
It contains about five hundred inhabitants. Near us on the same route,
are encamped three companies of regulars. I suffered but little from
this day’s march; and felt that I could go twice the distance on the
succeeding day, with as little suffering as I endured some of the first
days.
The garden of General Arista near Monterey, must have a passing notice.
It certainly surpasses anything of the kind that I ever beheld. It is
regularly laid out with taste and skill. The earth is raised about
three feet above the walks. Here are flowers of all varieties and
the most fragrant. On each side of the main path (which is made of
plaster, white and smooth), are two large basins with fountains rising
from the centre. But more beautiful still are two pools of water,
the most limpid and transparent, in which may be seen myriads of the
finny tribe. Then there is a clear cool stream flowing through white
cement tunnels, throughout the whole garden. The shady groves of exotic
fruits, the atmosphere laden with grateful perfumes, all conspired
to make it a place of enchantment. Everything appeared so novel, so
beautiful, that I almost fancied it the Garden of Eden.
_30th._--Here we are encamped in the plaza of Rinconida, after a most
fatiguing march of twenty-two miles. The road was broken and rocky, and
the wind blowing to the rear nearly suffocated us with dust. This town
is built of mud, and is half way to Saltillo. To this the armistice
extended. Rinconida signifies secure corner, and is in keeping with
its name, being in the intersection of two ranges of mountains. It
could be well defended by a small force. Tending to and from the town
is a beautiful grove of trees, forming a shady archway above, and is
interspersed with enormous century plants, the stalks of which rise
from fifteen to twenty feet.
Quite an excitement! Arrival of the Great Western, or, the heroine
of Fort Brown. She has every appearance of an Amazon, being tall,
muscular, and majestic in her expression. She won laurels at the
bombardment from Matamoros. She issued out coffee to the men while the
bombs were falling all around her.
_31st._--On the morning of the 31st, we were mustered for two months’
pay; then took up our line of march as usual. Owing to the well nigh
broken-down state of our teams, we marched but twelve miles on the
31st. The road was hilly and dusty, but we arrived at our encampment
in good time; the Greys being the advanced guard. This place is called
the Warm Springs, from the temperature of the water. It is destitute of
tree and bush, for miles around, that could be procured for fuel.
“_Camp Butler, Jan’y 1st, 1847._
“DEAR SISTER:--
“How shall I repay you for your very kind letter? You can never know
how grateful I am for its cheering effects. In fact I never had so
much need of consolation before, as we have just finished a long
and wearisome march from Camargo through Monterey to this place. We
are encamped in the dust, which, with the wind and cold, destroys
every moment of comfort. Our wood is issued out, two cords to the
regiment; but when it comes to be divided among the companies, then
subdivided among the messes, it is separated into small parcels
indeed. No wonder, then, after marching over two hundred miles, and
passing through so many comfortable places where other troops are
stationed, that we should feel disappointed in being quartered in this
disagreeable place. The effect is visible upon us all.
“We had been here but a few days when Col. Bowles arrived from the
States loaded with letters. My dear sister, if you could have seen
with what eagerness we listened for the announcement of our names, and
with what avidity we tore open the seals and devoured the contents,
then you would have known how dear you all are to us, and how lively
is the interest we take in the associations of our beloved homes.
I am unable to say how often I have read your letter, but every
time it appears new and interesting. Unto the never-to-be-forgotten
friends who so kindly remember me, please give the assurance of my
increased regard and warmest gratitude. Of my sincerity I promise
to convince them if we are ever permitted to meet again. We are now
amongst the foremost troops in the enemy’s country, having pitched
our tents six miles from Saltillo on the high lands of Mexico, with a
girdle of mountains around us. Through these there are three principal
passes. Gen. Wool’s division occupies beyond the city; two companies
of Kentucky cavalry at Rinconida Pass; and two companies of the same
regiment at the one on our left.
“Our discipline here is very strict, as rumor of an attack is
continually floating about the camp. Last night near midnight an
express arrived from the city, with orders that a picket guard of
thirty men should be stationed two miles from the camp on the road to
the two passes, as a large body of lancers had been discovered in the
neighborhood. But no further alarm has yet been given.
“We arrived here on New Year’s day, just as the Louisville Legion
and the 1st Ohio regiment, were returning to Monterey. We had many
a welcome recognition of friends in the Legion, and many jokes on
our bronzed appearance; and allusions made to brighter days, when we
attended together military encampments, dinners and target shooting;
little dreaming that such a meeting as this was in store.
“Yesterday several of us visited a cotton factory not far from the
camp, which is owned by a Scotchman, who conducts the concern with
ability. There are fifty girls employed, several of whom are from the
States. The machinery was imported from New York.
“We have just received word to garrison the city, in place of General
Worth’s division. Yesterday they started on their way to join General
Scott. The 3d regiment has already started, so I must postpone
finishing till we are moved.
“_18th._--During the interval between these dates, I have been so
employed, that I have not been able to finish these notes. We have
so many duties to perform, that there are few leisure moments indeed
for writing. One hundred men are detailed from each of the Indiana
regiments for guard; besides others to work on the fortifications. Last
night our company was on patrol. We were up all night traversing the
streets and alleys, and every suspicious corner in the city. But there
is so much excitement connected with these duties, that we greatly
prefer them to the monotony of camp life.
“We are now pleasantly situated, having comfortable quarters and good
provisions. The Greys sustain that character which they so proudly bore
at home. Yesterday General Butler remarked to his aid-de-camp, while on
brigade drill, that we were the finest volunteer company he had seen
in the service. Our belts were perfectly white, and our arms brightly
burnished, which made the contrast so perceptible.
“The city of Saltillo is situated on the side of a hill. It has narrow
streets and side walks, which are roughly paved with stone. The houses
are built of stone and mud bricks, whitened over on the outside with
plaster. They have flat roofs. The city boasts of two cathedrals, a
nunnery and four plazas. In the centre of the plazas are fountains
continually playing from the centre of large basins.
“The church and plaza Santiago are truly magnificent, covering a whole
square, and the front beautifully ornamented with columns, arches
and statuary. In one steeple is placed a town clock, and in another
a fine collection of chimes. The plaza, when viewed from the church,
has an imposing appearance. The side walks around lead through arches
supported by columns. There are groves of trees at regular distances,
and fountains in the centre, spouting forth the sparkling liquid into
the air, forming rainbows as it falls in copious showers into the basin
below. But these beauties are but a scanty foretaste of the splendid
magnificence that presents itself when you enter the church. I am
incompetent to give a just description of its solemn grandeur. The
paintings were truly beautiful. Hundreds of images were set in large
cases of glass, and gilded niches richly clothed in satins and velvets,
and decorated with silver, gold and precious stones. The altar in the
sanctum is entirely overlaid with silver, as well as the candlesticks,
censers and other appendages. The religious awe and superstitious
reverence they have for these things are astonishing. As they pass the
cathedral, they take off their hats. At morning, noon and night, the
bells commence ringing, as if the whole town was on fire, and persons
in the streets uncover their heads. Yesterday I saw a woman walking on
her knees over the rough stones to church.
“A portion of my leisure time is agreeably spent with some of my
Mexican acquaintances. I have made some progress in acquiring their
language. Yesterday I dined with them by invitation. The natives
are moving from the city in great numbers, and every day increases
the belief that the town will be attacked. About nine o’clock the
other night, the whole city was thrown into an uproar by an expected
attack. Great were the stir and confusion. As the long roll resounded
from every guard station, the crowds of terrified citizens were seen
hurrying to their homes, closing up their stores and barricading their
doors. The fire was gleaming from the rough stones, as the galloping
steeds were rushing to and fro. The cries, ‘to your quarters, men, the
enemy is upon us!’ added to the commotion and tumultuous disorder.
“In a few minutes our little force was formed on the main plaza, and
after an exciting appeal, were stationed at different points. There
we anxiously awaited the assault, but waited in vain, and were soon
disbanded, as the alarm was occasioned by the firing of the Mexican
sentry upon convicts who were attempting to make their escape. It
appears that Santa Anna had sent an order to the alcalde, requiring him
to liberate the criminals, on condition they would join the army. This
the alcalde refused to do; the prisoners finding this out, raised in
rebellion, which caused our stampede.
“Yours, &c.”
_Camp at Agua Nueva, February 12th._
We arrived at this place, on last Saturday, to join General Taylor and
Wool, who recently concentrated their forces here. It is generally
believed that a movement is contemplated upon San Luis Potosi, or
Zacatecas.
It is quite cold in this elevated situation, and we have suffered
exceedingly, especially within a few days. Last night was the first
snow storm that I saw this winter. We use pitch-pine as wood, and chop
it ourselves upon the mountains, six or seven miles from the camp, by
the road.
We now occupy the post of danger, and know not what is in store for
us. So many reports have been in circulation, that we are almost
indifferent to what we hear, no matter how startling it might appear.
But if we march towards San Luis, we shall have what we have been so
long craving--a fight. Recently I became sergeant, to fill the vacancy
occasioned by Thomas Gwin being made sergeant-major. Being on guard
to-night, these notes are written during the intervals of my duties;
having a cold, and nursing my light, which is kept flickering by the
howling wind without. It is nearly eleven, and time to awaken the
second relief.
_13th._--Last night I was so cold and uncomfortably situated, that
I was incapable of holding my pen, but I have commenced early this
morning, hoping to finish before my companions start away. There
was rain last night, and it don’t seem so cold at present, but the
mountains are still covered with snow. This place is truly romantic,
and presents some of the finest prospects I ever beheld. There is the
extended plain, dotted with white tents, and the huge mountain piles
around excite the loftiest sentiments. If the gorgeousness of the
sunsets could be transferred to canvas, the painter might be called a
wild enthusiast.
Dear sister, in sending you this journal, I am actuated by the
expectation of a long and perilous march. It is well to dispense with
all superfluous weight. Please take care of this till I return, if
I should be so fortunate. I know not whether to ask you to continue
writing, as it is doubtful whether your letters would be received. I
shall hasten to apprize you of our next movement. Remember me to all
my friends, my mother and brothers in particular. My fingers are so
benumbed that I cannot write any more.
_28th._--During last week, I have passed through so many thrilling
scenes, that I am unable to describe them in regular order. Last Sunday
we received orders to strike our tents and prepare to march. Before we
had formed a line, and the command given, “file left,” the most of us
were ignorant of our place of destination. But so soon as we commenced
marching towards Saltillo, there was an end of discussion.
Traveling about sixteen miles, we arrived at Buena Vista. After
pitching our tents, we lay down supperless, for we had neither wood nor
provisions. Scarcely had I fallen asleep, when the news was circulated
that a mail had arrived. Soon after a letter was handed me from my
friend Mrs. W., but, having no light, I was forced to postpone the
reading till morning.
We had scarcely finished our breakfast, when the long roll was beaten,
calling us all to arms, as our picket guard had just arrived with
the intelligence that the Mexican army was approaching. Having packed
our wagon and formed a line, we were marched one and a-half miles
towards the enemy, and stationed on a ridge just behind the narrow pass
in which Major Washington’s battery was placed. There we waited the
approach. The Mexicans had encamped the night before at Agua Nueva,
causing the Kentucky and Arkansas cavalry, who were guarding some
provisions, to destroy them and retreat in the night.
We were greatly indebted to Colonel May and Captain M’Cullough, who
rendered us much good service as spies. The intelligence which they
brought caused us to leave the plains of Agua Nueva for a very strong
and advantageous position.--Whilst we were awaiting the onset, I read
Mrs. W.’s letter over and over again. It was encouraging, and afforded
many topics for contemplation.
Having remained in this position more than half the day, we were
ordered over to another height on the left, near the foot of the
mountain, where we were, during the night, occasionally receiving a
shot from the enemy’s battery. (See Map, Letter D.) Toward evening,
the two rifle companies, from each of the Indiana regiments, commanded
by Major Gorman, who were stationed on the left, upon the side of the
mountain, (see Map G,) were fired upon by an immense body of the enemy,
who had also ascended the mountain. A heavy fire was kept up till dark,
when all was silent, save the echoing of the enemy’s trumpets. I never
shall forget the peculiar melody of those sounds as we lay upon our
arms, hungry, and shivering with cold. It was a prelude to the awful
din of next day.
Before hostilities commenced, a flag of truce was sent by Santa Anna
with dispatches to General Taylor, stating that he was here with
twenty thousand men, and to save loss of blood, demanded immediate
capitulation. General Taylor is said to have replied, “If you want
us, come and take us!” It looked almost like madness, with an army of
four thousand five hundred men, and sixteen small pieces of cannon, to
compete with a force, which all our prisoners, and Santa Anna himself,
agree in being twenty thousand men, and seventeen pieces of cannon--of
which eight were sixteen and twenty-four pounders. What a fearful
difference! Yet that small army of raw, inexperienced volunteers not
only struggled against twenty thousand strong of the flower of the
Mexican army, commanded by one of the ablest generals in the world, but
obtained a complete victory. This I hold to be one of the greatest
achievements upon record.
Before I proceed further, I must confess my inability to give an
accurate description of the whole action. The excitement and interest
I experienced in what was passing immediately around me, occupied all
my attention. I shall, therefore, for my future perusal, detail my own
feelings and actions, together with what came under my own observation
during the hazardous conflict.
At sunrise, on the following day, the roaring of the enemy’s cannon
announced the commencement of hostilities. A heavy fire was opened upon
our riflemen upon the mountain, but they returned it in a handsome
style. They were reinforced by a part of the 2d Illinois regiment and
Kentucky cavalry, but still the odds were greatly against them. The
whole mountain side, as far as the eye could reach, glittered with the
enemy’s bayonets and lances.