At Villars de Bretonne, on my road hither, some people told me, with

great gaiety, that the English had made a descent on the coast of

Picardy. Such a report (for I did not suppose it possible) during the

last war would have made me tremble, but I heard this without alarm,

having, in no instance, seen the people take that kind of interest in

public events which formerly made a residence in France unpleasant to an

individual of an hostile nation. It is not that they are become more

liberal, or better informed--no change of this kind has been discovered

even by the warmest advocates of the revolution; but they are more

indifferent, and those who are not decidedly the enemies of the present

government, for the most part concern themselves as little about the

events of the war, as though it were carried on in the South Sea.

I fear I should risk an imputation on my veracity, were I to describe the

extreme ignorance and inattention of the French with respect to public

men and measures. They draw no conclusions from the past, form no

conjectures for the future, and, after exclaiming "Il ne peut pas durer

comme cela," they, with a resignation which is certainly neither pious

nor philosophic, leave the rest to the agency of Providence.--Even those

who are more informed so bewilder themselves in the politics of Greece

and Rome, that they do not perceive how little these are applicable to

their own country. Indeed, it should seem that no modern age or people

is worthy the knowledge of a Frenchman.--I have often remarked, in the

course of our correspondence, how little they are acquainted with what

regards England or the English; and scarcely a day passes that I have not

occasion to make the same observation.

My conductor hither, who is a friend of Mad. de T____, and esteemed "bien

instruit," was much surprized when I told him that the population and

size of London exceeded that of Paris--that we had good fruit, and better

vegetables than were to be found in many parts of France. I saw that he

suspected my veracity, and there is always on these occasions such a

decided and impenetrable incredulity in a Frenchman as precludes all

hopes of convincing him. He listens with a sort of self-sufficient

complacence which tells you he does not consider your assertions as any

thing more than the exaggerations of national vanity, but that his

politeness does not allow him to contradict you. I know nothing more

disgustingly impertinent than his ignorance, which intrenches itself

behind the forms of civility, and, affecting to decline controversy,

assumes the merit of forbearance and moderation: yet this must have been

often observed by every one who has lived much in French society: for the

first emotion of a Frenchman, on hearing any thing which tends to place

another country on an equality with France, is doubt--this doubt is

instantly reinforced by vanity--and, in a few seconds, he is perfectly

satisfied that the thing is impossible.

One must be captious indeed to object to this, did it arise from that

patriotic feeling so common in the English; but here it is all vanity,

downright vanity: a Frenchman must have his country and his mistress

admired, though he does not often care much for either one or the other.

I have been in various parts of France in the most critical periods of

the revolution--I have conversed with people of all parties and of all

ranks--and I assert, that I have never yet met but with one man who had a

grain of real patriotism. If the Athenian law were adopted which doomed

all to death who should be indifferent to the public welfare in a time of

danger, I fear there would be a woeful depopulation here, even among the

loudest champions of democracy.

It is not thirty miles from Amiens to Peronne, yet a journey of thirty

miles is not now to be undertaken inconsiderately; the horses are so much

worked, and so ill fed, that few perform such a distance without rest and

management. If you wish to take others, and continue your route, you

cannot, or if you wait while your own horses are refreshed, as a reward

for your humanity you get starved yourself. Bread being very scarce, no

family can get more than sufficient for its own consumption, and those

who travel without first supplying themselves, do it at the risk of

finding none on the road.

Peronne is chiefly remarkable in history for never having been taken, and

for a tower where Louis XI. was confined for a short time, after being

outwitted in a manner somewhat surprizing for a Monarch who piqued

himself on his talents for intrigue, by Charles le Temeraire, Duke of

Burgundy. It modern reputation, arises from its election of the Abbe

Maury for its representative, and for entertaining political principles

every way analogous to such a choice.

I found the Marquise much altered in her person, and her health much

impaired, by the frequent alarms and continual apprehensions she had been

subject to at Paris. Fortunately she has no imputation against her but

her rank and fortune, for she is utterly guiltless of all political

opinions; so that I hope she will be suffered to knit stockings, tend her

birds and dogs, and read romances in peace.--Yours, &c. &c.

August 1, 1793.

When the creation of assignats was first proposed, much ingenuity was

employed in conjecturing, and much eloquence displayed in expatiating

upon, the various evils that might result from them; yet the genius of

party, however usually successful in gloomy perspective, did not at that

time imagine half the inconvenience this measure was fraught with. It

was easy, indeed, to foresee, that an immense circulation of paper, like

any other currency, must augment the price of every thing; but the

excessive discredit of the assignats, operating accessarily to their

quantity, has produced a train of collateral effects of greater magnitude

than even those that were originally apprehended. Within the last twelve

months the whole country are become monopolizers--the desire of realizing

has so possessed all degrees of people, that there is scarcely an article

of consumption which is not bought up and secreted. One would really

suppose that nothing was perishable but the national credit--the

nobleman, the merchant, the shopkeeper, all who have assignats, engage in

these speculations, and the necessities of our dissipated heirs do not

drive them to resources for obtaining money more whimsical than the

commerce now practised here to get rid of it. I know a beau who has

converted his _hypotheque_ [Mortgage.] on the national domains into train

oil, and a General who has given these "airy nothings" the substance and

form of hemp and leather!*

* In the late rage for monopolies in France, a person who had

observed the vast daily consumption of onions, garlic, and

eschalots, conceived the project of making the whole district of

Amiens tributary for this indispensible article. In consequence, he

attended several market-days, and purchased all that came in his

way. The country people finding a ready sale for their onions,

poured in from all quarters, and our projector found that, in

proportion as he bought, the market became more profusely supplied,

and that the commodity he had hoped to monopolize was inexhaustible.

Goods purchased from such motives are not as you may conceive sold till

the temptation of an exorbitant profit seduces the proprietor to risk a

momentary possession of assignats, which are again disposed of in a

similar way. Thus many necessaries of life are withdrawn from

circulation, and when a real scarcity ensues, they are produced to the

people, charged with all the accumulated gains of these intermediate

barters.

This illiberal and pernicious commerce, which avarice and fear have for

some time kept in great activity, has at length attracted the notice of

the Convention, and very severe laws are now enacted against monopolies

of all kinds. The holder of any quantity of merchandize beyond what he

may be supposed to consume is obliged to declare it to his municipality,

and to expose the articles he deals in in writing over his door. These

clauses, as well as every other part of the decree, seem very wise and

equitable; but I doubt if the severity of the punishment annexed to any

transgression of it will not operate so as to defeat the purposes

intended to be produced. A false declaration is punishable by six years

imprisonment, and an absolute non-compliance with death.--Blackstone

remarks, that it is the certainty, not the severity, of punishment, which

makes laws efficacious; and this must ever be the case amongst an humane

people.--An inordinate desire of gain is not often considered by mankind

as very criminal, and those who would willingly subject it to its

adequate punishment of fine and confiscation, will hesitate to become the

means of inflicting death on the offender, or of depriving him of his

liberty. The Poets have, from time immemorial, claimed a kind of

exclusive jurisdiction over the sin of avarice: but, unfortunately, minds

once steeled by this vice are not often sensible to the attacks of

ridicule; and I have never heard that any poet, from Plautus to Moliere,

has reformed a single miser. I am not, therefore, sorry that our

legislature has encroached on this branch of the poetical prerogative,

and only wish that the mild regimen of the Muses had been succeeded by

something less rigid than the prison or the guillotine. It is true,

that, in the present instance, it is not the ordinary and habitual

practice of avarice that has called forth the severity of the laws, but a

species so destructive and extensive in its consequences, that much may

be said in defence of any penalty short of death; and such is the general

distrust of the paper-money, that I really believe, had not some measure

of the kind been adopted, no article susceptible of monopoly would have

been left for consumption. There are, however, those who retort on the

government, and assert, that the origin of the evil is in the waste and

peculation of its agents, which also make the immense emission of paper

more necessary; and they are right in the fact, though not in their

deduction, for as the evil does exist whatever may be the cause, it is

certainly wise to endeavour to remedy it.

The position of Valenciennes, which is supposed to be on the eve of a

surrender--the progress of the insurgents in La Vendee--the discontents

in the South--and the charge of treachery against so many of the

Generals, and particularly Custine--all together seem to have agitated

the public extremely: yet it is rather the agitation of uncertainty than

that occasioned by any deep impression of hope or fear. The people wish

to be relieved from their present situation, yet are without any

determinate views for the future; and, indeed, in this part of the

country, where they have neither leaders nor union, it would be very

difficult for them to take a more active part.

The party of the foederalists languish, merely because it is nothing more

than a party, and a party of which the heads excite neither interest nor

esteem. I conclude you learn from the papers all the more important

events, and I confine myself, as usual, to such details as I think less

likely to reach you. The humanity of the English must often banish their

political animosities when they read what passes here; and thousands of

my countrymen must at this moment lament with me the situation to which

France is reduced by projects in which common sense can distinguish no

medium between wickedness and folly.

All apparent attachment to royalism is now cautiously avoided, but the

royalists do not diminish by persecution, and the industry with which

they propagate their opinions is nearly a match for all the force armee

of the republicans.--It is not easy to print pamphlets or newspapers, but

there are certain shops which one would think were discovered by

instinct, where are sold a variety of mysterious emblems of royalty, such

as fans that have no visible ornaments except landscapes, &c. but when

opened by the initiated, present tolerable likenesses of the Royal

Family; snuff-boxes with secret lids, containing miniature busts of the

late King; and music so ingeniously printed, that what to the common eye

offers only some popular air, when folded so as to join the heads and

tails of the notes together, forms sentences of very treasonable import,

and by no means flattering to the existing government--I have known these

interdicted trifles purchased at extravagant prices by the best-reputed

patriots, and by officers who in public breathe nothing but unconquerable

democracy, and detestation of Kings. Yet, though these things are

circulated with extreme caution, every body has something of the sort,

and, as Charles Surface says, "for my part, I don't see who is out of the

secret."

The belief in religious miracles is exploded, and it is only in political

ones that the faith of the people is allowed to exercise itself.--We have

lately seen exhibited at the fairs and markets a calf, produced into the

world with the tri-coloured cockade on its head; and on the painted cloth

that announces the phoenomenon is the portrait of this natural

revolutionist, with a mayor and municipality in their official scarfs,

addressing the four-footed patriot with great ceremony.

We set out early to-morrow-morning for Soissons, which is about twenty

leagues from hence. Travelling is not very desirable in the present

circumstances, but Mad. de F____ has some affairs to settle there which

cannot well be entrusted to a third person. The times, however, have a

very hostile appearance, and we intend, if possible, to be absent but

three days.--Yours.

Soissons, August 4, 1793.

"And you may go by Beauvais if you will, for which reason many go by

Beauvais;" and the stranger who turns out of his road to go by Soissons,

must use the same reasoning, for the consciousness of having exercised

his free agency will be all his reward for visiting Soissons. This, by

the way; for my journey hither not being one of curiosity, I have no

right to complain; yet somehow or other, by associating the idea of the

famous Vase, the ancient residence of the first French Kings, and other

circumstances as little connected as these I suppose with modern history,

I had ranked Soissons in my imagination as one of the places I should see

with interest. I find it, however, only a dull, decent-looking town,

tolerably large, but not very populous. In the new division of France it

is the capital of the department De l'Aisne, and is of course the seat of

the administration.

We left Peronne early, and, being so fortunate as to encounter no

accidental delays, we arrived within a league of Soissons early in the

afternoon. Mad. de F____, recollecting an acquaintance who has a chateau

not far out of our road, determined to stop an hour or two; for, as she

said, her friend was so "fond of the country," she should be sure to find

him there. We did, indeed, find this Monsieur, who is so "fond of the

country," at home, extremely well powdered, dressed in a striped silk

coat, and engaged with a card party, on a warm afternoon on the third of

August.--The chateau was situated as a French chateau usually is, so as

to be benefited by all the noises and odours of the village--built with a

large single front, and a number of windows so judiciously placed, that

it must be impossible either to be cool in summer or warm in winter.

We walked out after taking some coffee, and I learned that this lover of

the country did not keep a single acre of land in his own hands, but that

the part immediately contiguous to the house was cultivated for a certain

share of the profit by a farmer who lives in a miserable looking place

adjoining, and where I saw the operations of the dairy-maid carried on

amidst pigs, ducks, and turkeys, who seemed to have established a very

familiar access.

Previous to our arrival at Soissons, the Marquise (who, though she does

not consider me as an aristocrate, knows I am by no means a republican,)

begged me to be cautious in expressing my sentiments, as the Comte de

____, where we were going, had embraced the principles of the revolution

very warmly, and had been much blamed by his family on this account.

Mad. de F____ added, that she had not seen him for above a year, but that

she believed him still to be "extremement patriote."

We reached Mons. de ____'s just as the family were set down to a very

moderate supper, and I observed that their plate had been replaced by

pewter. After the first salutations were over, it was soon visible that

the political notions of the count were much changed. He is a sensible

reflecting man, and seems really to wish the good of his country. He

thinks, with many others, that all the good effects which might have been

obtained by the revolution will be lost through the contempt and hatred

which the republican government has drawn upon it.

Mons. de ____ has two sons who have distinguished themselves very

honourably in the army, and he has himself made great pecuniary

sacrifices; but this has not secured him from numerous domiciliary visits

and vexations of all kinds. The whole family are at intervals a little

pensive, and Mons. de ____ told us, at a moment when the ladies were

absent, that the taking of Valenciennes had occasioned a violent

fermentation at Paris, and that he had serious apprehensions for those

who have the misfortune to be distinguished by their rank, or obnoxious

from their supposed principles--that he himself, and all who were

presumed to have an attachment to the constitution of eighty-nine, were

much more feared, and of course more suspected, than the original

aristocrates--and "enfin" that he had made up his mind a la Francaise to

the worst that could happen.

I have just run over the papers of the day, and I perceive that the

debates of the Convention are filled with invectives against the English.

A letter has been very opportunely found on the ramparts of Lisle, which

is intended to persuade the people that the British government has

distributed money and phosphoric matches in every town in France--the one

to provoke insurrection, the other to set fire to the corn.* You will

conclude this letter to be a fabrication, and it is imagined and executed

with so little ingenuity, that I doubt whether it will impose on the most

ignorant of the people for a moment.

* "The National Convention, in the name of violated humanity,

denounces to all the world, and to the people of England in

particular, the base, perfidious, and wicked conduct of the British

government, which does not hesitate to employ fire, poison,

assassination, and every other crime, to procure the triumph of

tyranny, and the destruction of the rights of man." (Decree, 1st

August, 1793.)

The Queen has been transferred to the Conciergerie, or common prison, and

a decree is passed for trying her; but perhaps at this moment (whatever

may be the result hereafter) they only hope her situation may operate as

a check upon the enemy; at least I have heard it doubted by many whether

they intend to proceed seriously on this trial so long threatened.--

Perhaps I may have before noticed to you that the convention never seemed

capable of any thing great or uniform, and that all their proceedings

took a tinge from that frivolity and meanness which I am almost tempted

to believe inherent in the French character. They have just now, amidst

a long string of decrees, the objects of which are of the first

consequence, inserted one for the destruction of all the royal tombs

before the tenth of August, and another for reducing the expences of the

King's children, particularly their food, to bare necessaries. Had our

English revolutionists thus employed themselves, they might have expelled

the sculptured Monarchs from the Abbey, and waged a very successful war

on the admirers of Gothic antiquity; but neither the Stuarts, nor the

Catholic religion, would have had much to fear from them.

We have been wandering about the town all day, and I have not remarked

that the successes of the enemy have occasioned any regret. When I was

in France three years ago, you may recollect that my letters usually

contained some relation of our embarrassment and delays, owing to the

fear and ignorance of the people. At one place they apprehended the

introduction of foreign troops--at another, that the Comte d'Artois was

to burn all the corn. In short, the whole country teemed with plots and

counterplots, every one of which was more absurd and inexplicable than

those of Oates, with his whole tribe of Jesuits. At present, when a

powerful army is invading the frontiers, and people have not in many

places bread to eat, they seem to be very little solicitous about the

former, and as little disposed to blame the aristocrates for the latter.

It is really extraordinary, after all the pains that have been taken to

excite hatred and resentment against the English, that I have not heard

of a single instance of their having been insulted or molested. Whatever

inconveniencies they may have been subjected to, were acts of the

government, not of the people; and perhaps this is the first war between

the two nations in which the reverse has not been the case.

I accompanied Mad. de ____ this afternoon to the house of a rich

merchant, where she had business, and who, she told me, had been a

furious patriot, but his ardour is now considerably abated. He had just

returned from the department, [Here used for the place where the public

business is transacted.] where his affairs had led him; and he assures

us, that in general the agents of the republic were more inaccessible,

more insolent, corrupt, and ignorant, than any employed under the old

government. He demurred to paying Mad. de ____ a sum of money all in

_assignats a face;_* and this famous patriot would readily have given me

an hundred livres for a pound sterling.

* _Assignats a face_--that is, with the King's effigy; at this time

greatly preferred to those issued after his death.

We shall return to Peronne to-morrow, and I have availed myself of the

hour between cards and supper, which is usually employed by the French in

undressing, to scribble my remarks. In some families, I suppose, supping

in dishabille is an arrangement of oeconomy, in others of ease; but I

always think it has the air of preparation for a very solid meal; and, in

effect, supping is not a mere ceremony with either sex in this country.

I learnt in conversation with M. de ____, whose sons were at Famars when

the camp was forced, that the carnage was terrible, and that the loss of

the French on this occasion amounted to several thousands. You will be

informed of this much more accurately in England, but you will scarcely

imagine that no official account was ever published here, and that in

general the people are ignorant of the circumstance, and all the

disasters attending it. In England, you have opposition papers that

amply supply the omissions of the ministerial gazettes, and often dwell

with much complacence on the losses and defeats of their country; here

none will venture to publish the least event which they suppose the

government wish to keep concealed. I am told, a leading feature of

republican governments is to be extremely jealous of the liberty of the

press, and that of France is, in this respect, truly republican.--Adieu.

Peronne, August, 1793.

I have often regretted, my dear brother, that my letters have for some

time been rather intended to satisfy your curiosity than your affection.

At this moment I feel differently, and I rejoice that the inquietude and

danger of my situation will, probably, not come to your knowledge till I

shall be no longer subject to them. I have been for several days unwell,

and yet my body, valetudinarian as I am at best, is now the better part

of me; for my mind has been so deranged by suspense and terror, that I

expect to recover my health long before I shall be able to tranquillize

my spirits.

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