But Earlsfield was already passed, and we were reaching Wimbledon. Here

M. Zola's impressions changed. True, he did not have occasion to

perambulate what he would doubtless have called the 'phalansterian'

streets of new South Wimbledon. I spared him the sight of the chess-board

of bricks and mortar into which the speculative builder has turned acre

after acre north of Merton High Street. But the Hill Road, the Broadway,

the Worple Road, and the various turnings that climb towards the Ridgeway

pleased him. And he commented very favourably on the shops in the

Broadway and the Hill Road, which in the waning sunshine still looked gay

and bright. At every moment he stopped to examine something. Such

displays of fruit, and fish, poultry, meat, and provisions of all kinds;

the drapers' windows all aglow with summer fabrics, and those of the

jewellers coruscating with gold and gems. Then the public-houses

--dignified by the name of hotels, though I explained that they had

no hotel accommodation--bespoke all the wealth of a powerful trade.

There was an imposing bank, too, and a stylish carriage builder's, with

furniture shops, stationers, pastrycooks, hairdressers, ironmongers, and

so forth, whose displays testified to the prosperity of the town. Again

and again did M. Zola express the opinion that these Wimbledon shops were

by far superior to such as one would find in a French town of

corresponding size and at a similar distance from the capital.

We sauntered up and down the Hill Road, looking in at the Free Library on

our way. Then, on passing the Alexandra Road, I explained to Desmoulin

that he would sleep there, at No. 20, where Wareham has a local office

and where his managing clerk, Everson by name, resides.

The arrangement with Wareham had been concluded so precipitately that, to

spare him unnecessary trouble at home, we had arranged to dine that

evening at a local restaurant--in fact, the only restaurant possessed by

Wimbledon. Wareham was to join us there. The proprietor, Mr. Genoni, is

of foreign origin, but Wareham knowing him personally had assured me that

even should he suspect our friend's identity his discretion might readily

be relied upon. And so the sequel proved. During our repast, however, I

felt a little doubtful about one of the waiters who know French, and I

therefore cautioned M. Zola and M. Desmoulin to be as reticent as

possible.

After dinner we adjourned to Wareham's house in Prince's Road, where Mrs.

Wareham gave the travellers the most cordial of welcomes. The

conversation was chiefly confined to the question of finding some

suitable place where M. Zola might settle down for his term of exile. He,

himself, was so taken with what he had seen of Wimbledon that he

suggested renting a furnished house there. This seemed a trifle

dangerous, both to Wareham and myself; but the novelist was not to be

gainsaid; and as Wareham, in anticipation of his services being required,

had made special arrangements to give M. Zola most of his time on the

morrow, we arranged to see some house agents, engage a landau, and drive

round to visit such places as might seem suitable.

It was nearly half-past eleven when I left Wareham's to escort Desmoulin

to the Alexandra Road. I there left him in charge of his host, Mr.

Everson, and then turning (by way of a short cut) into the Lover's Walk,

which the South Western Railway Company so considerately provides for

amorous Wimbledonians, I hurried homeward, wondering what the morrow

would bring forth.

V

WIMBLEDON--OATLANDS

It will be obvious to all readers of this narrative that from the moment

M. Zola left Paris, and throughout his sojourn in London and its

immediate neighbourhood, there was little if any skill shown in the

matter of keeping his movements secret. In point of fact, blunder upon

blunder was committed. A first mistake was made in going to an hotel like

the Grosvenor; a second in openly promenading some of the most frequented

of the London streets; and a third in declining to make the slightest

alteration with regard to personal appearance. Again, although press of

circumstances rendered departure for Wimbledon a necessity, as it was

imperative to get M. Zola out of London at once, this change of quarters

was in the end scarcely conducive to secrecy. A good many Wimbledonians

were aware of my connection with M. Zola, and even if he were not

personally recognised by them, the circumstance of a French gentleman of

striking appearance being seen in my company was fated to arouse

suspicion. My home is but a mile or so from the centre of Wimbledon, and

M. Zola's proposal to make that locality his place of sojourn seemed to

me such a dangerous course that when I returned to Wareham's house on the

morning of Friday, July 22, I was determined to oppose it, in the

master's own interests, as vigorously as might be possible.

However, I found Messrs. Zola and Desmoulin ready to start for an

inspection of such furnished houses as might seem suitable for their

accommodation; and nothing urged either by Wareham or by myself could

turn them from their purpose. So the four of us took our seats in the

landau which had been ordered, and were soon driving in the direction of

Wimbledon Park, where stood the first of the eligible residences entered

in the books of a local house agent. The terms for these houses varied,

if I recollect rightly, from four to seven guineas a week. Some we did

not trouble to enter; others, however, were carefully inspected.

Nothing in the way of a terrace house would suit; for M. Zola was not yet

a phalansterian. And in like way he objected to the semi-detached villas.

He wished to secure a somewhat retired place, girt with foliage and thus

screened from the observation of neighbours and passers-by. The low

garden railings and fences usually met with were by no means to his

taste. The flimsy party walls of the semi-detached villas, through which

every sound so swiftly passes, were equally objectionable to him. And I

must say that I viewed with some little satisfaction his dislike for

several of the houses which we visited; for this made it easier to

dissuade him from his plan of fixing his abode in Wimbledon, where,

unless he should rigidly confine himself within doors, it was certain

that his presence would be known before a week was over.

There were, however, some houses which the master found to his liking;

and here he lingered awhile, inspecting the rooms, taking stock of the

furniture, examining the engravings and water-colours on the walls, and

viewing the trim gardens with visible satisfaction. One place, a large

house in one of the precipitous roads leading from the Ridgeway to the

Worple Road, was, perhaps, rather too open for his requirements, but its

appointments were perfect, and at his bidding I plied the lady of the

house with innumerable questions about plate, linen, and garden produce,

the servants she offered to leave behind her, and so forth. She was a

tall and stately dame, with silver hair and a soft musical voice--a

perfect type of the old marquise, such as one sees portrayed at times on

the boards of the Comedie Francaise, and after I had acted as interpreter

for a quarter of an hour or so, she suddenly turned upon the master and,

to the surprise of all of us, addressed him in perfect French. It was

this which broke the spell. Though M. Zola was taken aback, he responded

politely enough, and the conversation went on in French for some minutes,

but I could already tell that he had renounced his intention of renting

the house. When we drove away, after promising the lady a decisive answer

within a day or two, he said to me:

'That would never do. The lady's French was too good. She looked at me

rather suspiciously too. She would soon discover my identity. She has

probably heard of me already.'

'Who hasn't?' I responded with a laugh. And once again I brought forward

the objections that occurred to me with respect to the plan of remaining

at Wimbledon. It was a centre of Roman Catholic activity. There was a

Jesuit college there, numbering both French professors and French pupils.

Moreover, several French families resided in Wimbledon, and with some of

them I was myself acquainted. Then also the population included a good

many literary men, journalists, and others who took an interest in the

Dreyfus case. And, finally, the town was far too near to London to be in

anywise a safe hiding-place.

Nevertheless, M. Zola only abandoned his intentions with regret. In that

bright sunshiny weather there was an attractive _je ne sais quoi_ about

Wimbledon which charmed him. Not that it was in his estimation an ideal

place. The descents from the hill and the Ridgeway (though he admired the

beautiful views they afforded, stretching as far as Norwood) appalled him

from certain practical standpoints, and he was never weary of expatiating

on the pluck of the girls who cycled so boldly and gracefully from the

hill crest to the lower parts of the town. Here it may be mentioned that

M. Zola has become reconciled to the skirt as a cycling garment. Once

upon a time he was an uncompromising partisan of 'rationals' and

'bloomers,' a warm adherent of the views which Lady Harberton and her

friends uphold. But sojourn in England has changed all that--at least so

far as the English type of girl is concerned. Those who have read his

novel, 'Paris,' may remember that he therein ascribed the following

remarks to his heroine--Marie: 'Ah! there is nothing like rationals! To

think that some women are so foolish and obstinate as to wear skirts when

they cycle! . . . To think that women have a unique opportunity of

putting themselves at their ease and releasing their limbs from prison,

and yet won't do so! If they fancy they look the prettier in short

skirts, like schoolgirls, they are vastly mistaken. . . . Skirts are rank

heresy.'

Well, so far as Englishwomen are concerned, M. Zola himself has become a

heretic. 'Rationals,' he has more than once said to me of recent times,

'are not suited to the lithe and somewhat spare figure of the average

English girl. Moreover, I doubt if there is a costumier in England who

knows how to cut "rationals" properly. Such women as I have seen in

rationals in England looked to me horrible. They had not the proper

figure for the garment, and the garment itself was badly made. For

rationals to suit a woman, her figure should be of the happy medium,

neither too slim nor over-developed. Now the great bulk of your girls are

extremely slim, and appear in skirts to advantage. In cycling, moreover,

they carry themselves much better than the majority of Frenchwomen do.

They sit their machines gracefully, and the skirt, instead of being a

mere bundle of stuff, falls evenly and fittingly like a necessary

adjunct--the drapery which is needed to complete and set off the

ensemble.'

At the same time, the master does not cry 'haro' on the 'bloomer.' It is

admirably suited, he maintains, to the average Frenchwoman, who is more

inclined to a reasonable plumpness than her English sister. 'The skirt to

England,' says he, 'the bloomer to France.' The whole question is one of

physique and latitude. The Esquimaux lady would look ungainly and feel

uncomfortable if she exchanged her moose furs for the wisp of calico

which is patronised by the lady of Senegal; and in the like way the

Englishwoman is manifestly ungainly and uncomfortable when she borrows

the breeches of the Parisienne.

This digression may seem to carry one away from Wimbledon, but I should

mention that many of the points enunciated were touched upon by M. Zola

for the first time, while we postponed further house-hunting to drive

over Wimbledon Common. The historic mill and Caesar's Camp, and the

picturesque meres were all viewed before the horses' heads were turned to

the town once more.

By this time the master had come to the conclusion that however pleasant

Wimbledon might be, it was no fit place for him, and that his best course

would be to pitch his tent 'far from gay cities and the ways of men.'

Within a few hours I had some proof of the wisdom of his decision, and a

week had not elapsed before I found that M. Zola's sojourn at Wimbledon

had become known to a variety of people. Mr. Genoni, the restaurateur,

had been one of the first to identify him; but, as he explained to me, he

was no spy or betrayer, and whatever he might think of the Dreyfus

business--he was a reader of that anti-Revisionist print the 'Petit

Journal'--M. Zola's secret was, he assured me, quite safe in his hands.

But, independently of Mr. Genoni, the secret soon became _le secret de

Polichinelle_. A French resident in Wimbledon recognised M. Zola as he

stood one day by the railway bridge admiring some fair cyclists. Then a

gentleman connected with the local Petty Sessions court espied him in my

company, and shrewdly guessed his identity. Subsequently a local

hairdresser, an Englishman, but one well acquainted with Paris and

Parisian matters, 'spotted' him in the Hill Road. Others followed suit,

and at last one afternoon a member of the 'Globe' staff called upon me

and supplied me with such circumstantial particulars that I could not

possibly deny the accuracy of his information. But M. Zola had then left

Wimbledon, and thus I was able to fence with my visitor and inform him

that, even if the novelist had ever been in the town, he was not there at

that time.

It had been arranged that some of the leading London house agents should

be written to, with the view of securing some secluded country house,

preferably in Surrey, and on the South Western line; but the question

was, where, in the meantime, could M. Zola be conveniently installed?

Having left England in the year 1865, and apart from a few brief sojourns

in London, having remained abroad till 1886, my knowledge of my native

land is very slight indeed. Years spent in foreign countries have made me

a stay-at-home--one who nowadays buries himself in his little London

suburb, going to town as seldom as possible, and without need of country

or seaside trip, since at Merton, where I live, there are green fields

all around one and every vivifying breeze that can be wished for. Thus I

was the worst person in the world to take charge of M. Zola and pilot him

safely to a haven of refuge.

Fortunately, Mr. Wareham knows his way about, as the saying goes, and his

cycling experience proved very useful. He suggested that until a house

could be secured, M. Zola should be installed at a country hotel; and he

mentioned two or three places which seemed to him of the right character.

One of these was Oatlands Park; and Wareham, who, although a solicitor,

claims to have some little poetry in his nature, waxed so enthusiastic

over the charms of Oatlands and neighbouring localities, that both M.

Zola and M. Desmoulin, fervent admirers of scenery as they are, became

curious to visit this leafy district of Surrey, where, as will be

remembered, King Louis Philippe spent his last years of life and exile.

One afternoon, then, I started with Messrs. Zola and Desmoulin for

Walton, from which station the Oatlands Park Hotel is most conveniently

reached. A Gladstone bag had now replaced the master's newspaper parcel,

and as M. Desmoulin's dressing-case was as large as a valise, there was

at least some semblance of luggage. I fully realised that it was hardly

the correct thing to present oneself at Oatlands Park and ask for rooms

there _ex abrupto_; as with hostelries of that class it is usual for one

to write and secure accommodation beforehand. However, there was no time

for this; and we decided to run the risk of finding the hotel 'full up,'

particularly as Wareham had informed us that in such a case we might

secure a temporary billet at one or another of the smaller hotels of

Walton or Weybridge. Thus we went our way at all hazards, and during the

journey I devised a little story for the benefit of the manager at

Oatlands Park.

That gentleman, as I had surmised, was a trifle astonished at our

appearance. But I told him that my friends were a couple of French

artists, who had been spending a few weeks in London 'doing the lions'

there, and who had heard of the charming scenery around Oatlands, and

wished to view it, and possibly make a few sketches. And, at the same

time, a solicitor's recommendation being of some value, since it might

mean a good many future customers, I handed the manager one of Wareham's

cards. There was, I remember, some little difficulty at first in

obtaining rooms, for the hotel was nearly full; but everything ended

satisfactorily.

I may mention, perhaps, that in describing Messrs. Zola and Desmoulin as

French artists, I had at least told half the truth. M. Fernand Desmoulin

is, of course, well known in the French art world; and, moreover, he had

already spoken to me of purchasing a water-colour outfit for the very

purpose of sketching, as I had stated. Then, too, M. Zola first

distinguished himself in literature as an art critic, the defender of

Manet, the champion of the school of the 'open air.' And if he made no

sketches whilst he remained at Oatlands he at least took several

photographs. Sapient critics will stop me here with the oft-repeated

dictum that photography is not art. But however that may be, so many

painters nowadays have recourse to the assistance of photography that M.

Zola's 'snap-shotting' largely helped to bear out the account which I had

given of him at the hotel.

Oatlands Park is a large pile standing on the site of a magnificent

palace built by Henry VIII. Anne of Denmark, wife of James I., resided

there, and Henrietta Maria there gave birth to the Duke of Gloucester,

the brother of our second Charles and second James. The palace was almost

entirely destroyed during the Civil Wars, and subsequently the property

passed in turn to Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans; Herbert, the admiral, first

Earl of Torrington; and Henry, seventh Earl of Lincoln. A descendant of

the last-named sold the estate to Frederick, Duke of York, the son of

George III. and Commander-in-Chief of the British army. Soon afterwards

the house at Oatlands was destroyed by fire, and the prince erected a new

building, some portions of which are incorporated in the present

hostelry. A pathetic interest attaches to those remains of York House.

Within those walls were spent many of the honeymoon hours of a fair and

virtuous princess, one whose early death plunged England into the deepest

grief it had known for centuries; there she conceived the child who in

the ordinary course of nature might have become King of Great Britain.

But the babe, so anxiously awaited by the whole nation (there was no

Princess Victoria at that time) proved stillborn; and of the unhappy

'mother of the moment,' Byron wrote in immortal lines:

Of sackcloth was thy wedding garment made;

Thy bridal's fruit is ashes; in the dust

The fair-hair'd Daughter of the Isles is laid,

The love of millions!

I am bound to add that the tragic story of the Princess Charlotte was not

that which most appealed to M. Zola's feelings at Oatlands Park. Nor was

he particularly impressed by the far-famed grotto which the hotel

handbook states 'has no parallel in the world.' The grotto, an artificial

affair, the creation of which is due to a Duke of Newcastle, whom it cost

40,000 pounds, besides giving employment to three men for twenty years,

consists of numerous chambers and passages, whose walls are inlaid with

coloured spars, shells, coral, ammonites, and crystals. This work is

ingenious enough, but when one enters a bath-room and finds a stuffed

alligator there, keeping company with a statue of Venus and a terra-cotta

of the infant Hercules, one is apt to remember how perilously near the

ridiculous is to the sublime.

Ridiculous also to some minds may seem the Duchess of York's dog and

monkey cemetery, in which half a hundred of that lady's canine and simian

pets lie buried with headstones to their tombs commemorating their

virtues. This cemetery, however, greatly commended itself to M. Zola,

who, as some may know, is a rare lover of animals. Among the various

distinctions accorded to him in happier times by his compatriots there is

none that he has ever prized more highly than the diploma of honour he

received from the French 'Society for the Protection of Animals,' and I

believe that one of the happiest moments he ever knew was when, as

Government delegate at a meeting of that society, he fastened a gold

medal on the bosom of a blushing little shepherdess, a certain Mlle.

Camelin, of Trionne, in Upper Burgundy, a girl of sixteen, who, at the

peril of her life, had engaged a ravenous wolf in single combat, killed

him, and thereby saved her flock.

And M. Zola's books teem with his love of animals. During his long exile

one of the few requests addressed to him from France, to which he

inclined a favourable ear, was an appeal on behalf of a new journal

devoted to the interests of the animal world. To this he could not refuse

his patronage, and he gave it enthusiastically, well knowing how much

remains to be accomplished in inculcating among the masses such affection

and patience as are rightful with regard to those dumb creatures who

serve man so well.

The Duchess of York's cemetery reminded him of his own. Below his house

at Medan a green islet rises from the Seine. This he purchased some years

ago, and there all his favourites have since been buried: an old horse, a

goat, and several dogs. During his exile a fresh interment took place in

this island cemetery, that of his last canine favourite, the poor

'Chevalier de Perlinpinpin,' who, after vainly fretting for his absent

master, died at last of sheer grief and loneliness. Those only can

understand Emile Zola who have seen him as I saw him then, bowed down

with sorrow, distraught, indifferent to all else, both the weightiest

personal interests and the very triumph of the cause he had championed;

and this because his pet dog had pined away for him, and was beyond all

possibility of succour. It was of course a passing weakness with him;

such weakness as may fall upon a man of kindly heart. In Zola's case it

came, however, almost like a last blow amidst the sorrow and loneliness

of the exile which he was enduring in silence for the sake of his

much-loved country.

VI

STILL AT OATLANDS

For a time, at all events, Messrs. Zola and Desmoulin found themselves in

fairly pleasant quarters; they could stroll about the gardens at Oatlands

or along the umbrageous roads of Walton, or beside the pretty reaches of

the Thames, amidst all desirable quietude. After all his worries the

master needed complete mental rest, and he laughed at his friend's

repeated appeals for newspapers.

At that period I procured a few French journals every time I went to town

and posted them to Oatlands, where they were eagerly conned by M.

Desmoulin, on whom the Dreyfus fever was as strong as ever. But M. Zola

during the first fortnight of his exile did not once cast eyes upon a

newspaper, and the only information he obtained respecting passing events

was such as Desmoulin or myself imparted to him. And in this he evinced

little interest. Half of it, he said, was absolutely untrue, and the

other half was of no importance. There is certainly much force and truth

in this curtly-worded opinion as applied to the contents of certain Paris

journals.

However, communications were now being opened up between the master and

his Paris friends, and every few days Wareham or myself had occasion to

go to Oatlands. There were sundry false alarms, too, through strangers

calling at Wareham's office, and now and again my sudden appearance at

the hotel threw Messrs. Zola and Desmoulin into anxiety. In other

respects their life was quiet enough. The people staying at Oatlands

were, on the whole, a much less inquisitive class than those whom one had

found at the Grosvenor. There were various honeymoon-making couples, who

were far too busy feasting their eyes on one another to pay much

attention to two French artists. Then, also, the family people gave time

to the superintendence of their sons and daughters; whilst the old folks

only seemed to care for a leisurely stroll about the grounds, followed by

long spells of book or newspaper reading, under the shelter of tree or

sunshade.

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