CHAPTER XI

1910-1911

The first news that reached me on my landing at Southampton on July 17,

1910, was that my nephew, Alan Boyle, the intrepid young airman, had

been seriously hurt at Bournemouth--not in the "central blue," but

through the wheels of his "Avis" catching in a clover-field. His life

had probably been saved by the chance of his having borrowed (for he

always as a rule flew bareheaded) an inflated rubber cap from a friend

just before the disaster; but, as it was, his head was badly

injured.[1] After telegraphing sympathy and inquiries to the Glasgows,

I went straight to London, to interview doctor and oculist, who both

advised consultation with the famous Wiesbaden specialist,

Pagenstecher. My brother and I accordingly left England next day,

staying a night at Cologne to visit the Cathedral, which D. had never

seen, and which, marvellous as it is, struck me once again as the most

uninspired of all the great churches of Europe. We reached Wiesbaden

next evening; and I was soon established {190} in the comfortable

_klinik_ devoted to the cosmopolitan clients of the great oculist. Our

party included patients from America, Australia, Mexico and Ceylon, as

well as from every country in Europe, and I found myself at table next

to a wealthy Catholic gentleman from Yucatan, who told me much about

that little-known and marvellous country, and gave me an album of most

interesting photographs. I had feared to be caged in a dark room, but

escaped this fate, and was able to enjoy of an afternoon the excellent

music in the Kurhaus gardens. The internal decorations of the Kurhaus

were too hideous for words; but it stood charmingly among shady groves,

lakes and fountains, and there were 350 newspapers in the huge rococo

reading-room. I had some pleasant walks with my new friend from

Yucatan--one to the top of the Neroberg, where we enjoyed a really

magnificent prospect, and partook of iced coffee and kirschen-kuechen in

a rustic summerhouse. Another glorious view was from the Greek Chapel,

erected by a Grand Duke of Nassau to the memory of his Russian wife,

with an extraordinarily sumptuous and beautiful interior: I was greatly

struck by it, though I could not help thinking that when the guide said

it cost L700,000 he meant marks, for it is of no great size.

Meanwhile I continued the prescribed "treatment" (unpleasant as it was)

at the hands of the eminent oculist, a mysterious-seeming old gentleman

who reminded me uncomfortably of Uncle Silas in Le Fanu's

blood-curdling novel. Our party at the Klinik was a remarkably

cheerful one, everybody seeming quite confident of being cured, or at

least greatly benefited. Personally, I soon made up my mind {191} to

the permanent loss of one eye (even though, as Dickens remarked of Mr.

Squeers, "popular prejudice runs in favour of two"); and in this

anticipation I was confirmed by the verdict of Pagenstecher's clever

son Adolf, a much more _simpatico_ person than his distinguished

parent. Anyhow I was out of the surgeons' hands (for this relief much

thanks!), and to celebrate my emancipation I dined at the Kurhaus,

listened to the admirable "Doppel-Orchester" (it was an Italian Opera

night, recalling many memories), witnessed the illuminations, and felt

quite dissipated.

I was cheered, in the midst of these preoccupations, by a very hopeful

letter from my sister, fortified by Sir Victor Horsley's favourable

prognosis of Alan's case.[2] Interesting news, too, came from Lady

Lovat (doubly interesting to me) that Simon, now nearly thirty-nine,

was engaged to my pretty young kinswoman Laura Lister.[3] And on the

same day I heard of the betrothal of a favourite niece to a

brigadier-general, with a command in West Africa (whither, I imagine,

his bride could _not_ accompany him), and a little place in

Lincolnshire. In both cases, curiously enough, the

bridegroom-expectant was more than double the age of the bride-to-be;

but I saw no reason, if they knew their own minds, why this discrepancy

should militate against their happiness.

Bethinking myself that I had never yet gone down the Rhine by water, I

boarded a steamer at Biebrich, {192} and steamed down the yellow turbid

river for eight hours in mist and rain, wishing all the time that I was

in the train. A female fellow-passenger introduced herself to me as a

former governess of the Glasgow children in the Antipodes, said she had

lost her party _and_ her purse, and requested a small loan! I spent

two pleasant days at Cologne (Sunday and the _festa_ of August 15 next

day), was edified by the immense and devout congregations and the

beautiful music in the vast cathedral, and pleased to see the simple

holiday-making of the good Rhinelanders in their pretty river-side

gardens. Brussels, my next halting-place, was crammed with visitors to

the Exhibition, or rather to the smoking ruins of what had been the

exhibition, the greater part of which had been burned down the night

before my arrival. I walked through the cheerful city, of which the

only new feature (to me) was the colossal Palace of Justice, which

seemed to dominate Brussels as the heaven-piercing spires of the Dom

dominate Cologne; but the gigantic mass of the Brussels building seemed

rather to be heaven-defying, and too suggestive of the Tower of Babel

to please me.

Letters at Brussels told me of the long-hoped-for arrival of Kelburn's

son and heir, godson to Queen Mary (her first since the King's

accession). He was named Maurice at the special wish of Her Majesty,

who (so I understood) was possessed with the odd idea that "Maurice"

was the masculine equivalent for "Mary!" Crossing from Ostend to

Dover, I encountered a well-known Scottish peer of whose demise I had

read in an English paper two days before. He was on his way home from

visiting the Passion-play at Ober Ammergau, had seen no papers, {193}

and had been surprised, and rather annoyed, at receiving letters and

telegrams at Brussels congratulating him on being still alive. I

cheered him up with a story of another man who saw his death announced

in the morning papers, and calling up an intimate friend on the

telephone, said, "Did you see in this morning's paper that I was dead?"

"Yes," replied his friend, "I did. Where are you speaking from?" When

I got to London, the same kind brother who had escorted me to Wiesbaden

took me (by way of consolation for my wasted month[4]) to lunch--on

turtle soup and punch--at the "Ship and Turtle" in the City. After a

flying visit to my kind friends at Arundel and to my sister in Surrey,

I came back to stay with him at his elm-shaded Thames-side home. We

made some pleasant expeditions thence by land and water, motoring one

day to quaint old Guildford, where we explored Archbishop Abbott's

delightfully picturesque old Jacobean almshouses, and drank tea in an

almost equally picturesque tea-shop, kept, I was carefully informed, by

_real_ ladies!

My pretty niece Cicely insisted on my presence at her wedding to her

Brigadier; and I journeyed down to Kent, on a piping August day, in the

company of crowds of Irish hoppers bound for the same county. The

marriage was from the Cranbrooks' nice place, Hemsted, in the very

heart of the Garden of England, a big Victorian house full of the first

Earl's[5] memorials of Queen Victoria, Beaconsfield, {194} and the

other great Tory statesmen of his day. Lady Jane Gathorne-Hardy did

the honours for the large house-party, as her parents were away taking

a "cure" somewhere; and the day after the pretty wedding in the pretty

parish church (the vicar, an old Magdalen man, gave a very good

address), our kind hostess escorted the whole party up to town and

entertained them to luncheon and a frivolous afternoon at the

"Follies." I left London the same night for Scotland, and met at

Beaufort, where I stayed _en route_, for our Highland abbey, Lovat's

youthful bride-elect--as tall, and I am sure as good, as the lady in

_The Green Carnation_,[6] and already an accepted and affectionate

member of the large and merry family of Frasers and Maxwells. I sailed

down our familiar canal to Fort Augustus on a marvellously still and

bright autumn afternoon; and as we slid alongside the Fort Augustus

quay and looked back on the panorama of azure lake and purple hills, a

friend and I agreed (as he colloquially put it) that it "licked the

Rhine into fits."

I found things externally little changed under the new, or restored,

Anglo-Benedictine regime, the chief visible difference being that my

brethren now wore the flapping English hood, which gave them rather the

aspect of large nuns. There was much coming and going to and from

missions and {195} locum-tenancies of vacant parishes; and our house

seemed destined to become more and more a "jumping-off place" for that

kind of work rather than a great centre of monastic life and

observance. One aim was not of course incompatible with the other,

given a large enough community; but ours was at this time small enough,

and there were several more or less permanent absentees. Most of the

latter, however, "rolled up" for the excellent retreat given us by our

good old friend Bishop Hedley, who had done us the same kindness just

twenty-one years before. He was interested, after it was over, in

hearing of our plans and hopes (then much "in the air") for re-starting

the suspended building of our much-needed church, of which the

foundation-stone had been laid nearly fifteen years previously. A

young architect (an "old boy" of the abbey school) was staying with us,

and quite prepared to produce the most fascinating designs at the

shortest notice. But money, or the lack of it, was, as usual, the

crucial point; and we did not "see our way" (horrid phrase) to resume

operations either then or in the immediate future.

I went, in these golden October days, when a wonderful stillness so

often broods over Highland hills and glens in their livery of autumnal

russet, to do chaplain for two Sundays to the Lovats, who had a large

shooting-party at Beaufort--Seftons and Howicks and Gathorne-Hardys and

some others, including an A.D.C. to the Irish Viceroy, of whom he told

me a good story. An old peer from the country presented himself at a

levee at Dublin Castle; and his Excellency engaged him in conversation,

starting as usual with the weather. {196} "Wonderful rain we've been

having: everything coming up out of the ground."--"God forbid!" said

the old peer. "I said that everything was coming up out of the

ground," repeated H.E., slightly raising his voice. "And _I_ said 'God

forbid!'" retorted the old gentleman: "I've got three wives buried

under it!"

I went from Beaufort for a day or two to Nairn, which I remember hardly

more than a poor fishing village, frequented by ladies and children for

sea-bathing, but which owes its present reputation and prosperity, like

so many other places, to its excellent golf-links. After a short stay

at Kelburn, where I found my poor nephew Alan Boyle making good

progress to recovery, I could not resist an invitation to pass a few

days at St. Andrews, where the successor of my dear friend George Angus

was anxious for me to see his new church lately opened. It was a

rather effective building, in what a descriptive report called the

"Lombardic style, adapted to suit local conditions." One of the

"adaptations" was putting the tower at the wrong end, the "local

condition" being that the lady who had built the church, and who

inhabited a villa close by, had objected to a western tower as blocking

her view of the North Sea! I strolled about the "dear romantic town,"

mounting the East Neuk road as far as "Rest and be thankful," and

feeling heavy-hearted enough, with Tennyson's lines constantly in my

mind:

I climb the hill from end to end:

Of all the landscape underneath,

I find no place that does not breathe

Some gracious memory of my friend.

{197}

For each has pleased a kindred eye,

And each reflects a happier day;

And leaving them to pass away,

I think once more he seems to die.

I came home from my last walk by the old harbour, admiring, as I had

done a hundred times before, the wonderful lights on sea and land which

one associates with St. Andrews in autumn; but feeling that I never

cared to see the place again. Soon I went south, to Oxford, where Mgr.

Kennard, who was again threatening for the _n_th time to resign, for

reasons of health, his office of chaplain, had begged me to come and

help him for as much of the Michaelmas term as I could spare. I found

him, as a matter of fact, rather exceptionally well, and ready and

anxious to recount to an intelligent listener (which I fear I was

_not_, on this subject) every one of his golfing achievements during

the past four months at Burnham, Westward Ho! North Berwick, and

elsewhere. Although quite incapable of talking "golf shop," I

contributed one anecdote (new, I believed), which I had brought from

Nairn, and which pleased my old friend. It concerned a young man and

maiden who were playing golf--the lady quite a novice--and had reached

a hole which was on the top of a little hill. The youth ran up first

to see the lie of the balls. "A stymie!" he shouted: "a dead stymie!"

The young lady came up with a sniff. "Well, do you know?" she said, "I

_thought_ I smelled something as I was walking up the hill!"

I had been invited to preach Lovat's wedding sermon on October 15; but

this, as well as much of the long choral service, had been

countermanded {198} at the eleventh hour. I went up the day before to

the family residence in Grosvenor Gardens: presents still pouring in,

and such unconsidered trifles as diamond pendants, silver salvers, gold

cigarette-cases, telescopes, and illuminated addresses, lying

promiscuously about. A small army of newspaper-reporters (whom I was

deputed to interview) swarmed in after dinner. There was a great

gathering at the Oratory next morning, where the ample space beneath

the dome makes a most effective setting for a wedding pageant. The

bride's procession was a little late; and the stalwart bridegroom,

supported by his Scots Guards brother, was (shall I say "the cynosure

of all eyes" or the "observed of all observers"?--both good old

_cliches_) in the full dress bravery of a Highland chief.[7] I went in

afterwards to sign the register, while the _primo soprano assoluto_ of

the famous choir thrilled out the Bach-Gounod "Ave Maria," as

inevitable an accompaniment of Oratory weddings as "O for the Wings of

a Dove" is of those at Sloane Street or Eaton Square. Mrs. Asquith

(the bride's aunt) entertained us afterwards in the none too spacious

reception rooms at 10, Downing Street, where the well-dressed mob,

_more suo_, made play with their elbows in their quest for their own

and other people's presents on the loaded tables. There were

representatives from the bride's home in Ribblesdale, as well as a

deputation of farmers from distant Beaufort; {199} and one heard

intermittently the broad accent of Lancashire and the slow soft

Highland speech, mingling oddly with the London cackle. The

festivities at an end, I escorted a party of youthful Maxwells to the

Zoo. We saw a much-bored tiger, which gaped at us most rudely; also a

greatly vaunted American aloe, of the

"blooming-once-in-a-hundred-years" kind, which we all thought a fraud.

I had planned to finish while at Oxford my greatly belated work for the

_Encyclopaedia_, but was (perhaps unduly) mortified to find how much my

progress was impeded by my altered conditions of eyesight. Let me,

however, record here, _pour encourager les autres_ similarly

handicapped, that the initial difficulty of _focussing_ (very serious

and very discouraging at first to a one-eyed man) tends to disappear

not only quickly but completely. "Un poco paciencia," as we say in

Brazil; kind Mother Nature steps in with her compensations, and one can

only feel grateful--I hope and believe that I did--at suffering so

little from what seems, and after all is, so serious a privation.

Two of Lovat's nephews were now undergraduates at Trinity, Cambridge,

whither I went over to see them from Oxford. They gave me luncheon in

their quaint low-ceiled rooms in Trinity Street, took me to see their

sister (a pupil in a convent school), and escorted me over some of the

"lions," wanting to know at every turn whether I did not admit that

Cambridge was infinitely superior to Oxford. I handsomely owned that

we possessed nothing quite so fine, in their different ways, as King's

Chapel, the famous "backs," and the Fitzwilliam Museum {200} (to say

nothing of the Catholic church); and they were both pleased at this

tribute, though it must be confessed that the absorbing interest of

their lives at that period seemed less to be architectural masterpieces

than the internal mechanism of motor-bicycles, about which they, in

common with many of their undergraduate friends, appeared to be quite

curiously infatuated. I went on from Cambridge (an insufferably

tedious journey) to Douai Abbey, our Berkshire monastery, where one was

always sure of a welcome of Benedictine heartiness, and where I gave a

lantern-lecture on Brazil, of a popular and superficial kind, to the

good monks and their pupils. This reminds me that, as a supposed

authority on negroes (many Englishmen, I firmly believe, are under the

impression that the population of Brazil is almost exclusively black!),

I was invited by my friend the Warden of Wadham to meet the Master of

Pembroke at dinner, in order to discuss the advisability or otherwise

of admitting black, brown and yellow men freely into the university.

The Warden (a Scotsman who had never, I think, been out of Britain) was

all in favour of the "open door"; whereas the little Master of

Pembroke, who had been bishop of Barbadoes, and knew a thing or two

about blacks, was strongly for the "keep 'em out" policy, and I was

entirely with him. We had an interesting evening's talk; but the

solution of this not unimportant question (which the foundation of the

Rhodes Scholarships had brought much to the front) did not of course

rest with us. The mention of Rhodes reminds me that a conspicuous

memorial tablet had lately been erected to him in the Schools: the

design was good and simple, but the lettering of the inscription (as

{201} is too often the case on modern monuments) so deplorably bad as

to spoil the whole effect.[8]

Walking through Magdalen cloisters on a sombre November afternoon, I

came unexpectedly on the poor young King (or ex-King) of Portugal, who

was looking through the college with a single companion. He looked

(who could wonder)[9] pale, depressed and nervous; and I was shocked at

the change in his appearance since I had seen him at Blenheim on the

occasion of his previous visit to England. Professor Oman (who had

been his guest in Portugal for the anniversary celebrations at Busaco)

met him, I believe, accidentally in High Street, and showed him all

over All Souls and the Bodleian; but I heard that his listless and

apathetic demeanour underwent little change. To be a "Roi en exil"

almost before reaching man's estate is about as dreary a lot as could

fall to any man; and one could only hope that fate had something better

in prospect for the young monarch so early and so tragically dethroned.

I got to Ampleforth Abbey, on my way north, in time for our great

Benedictine festival of All Saints of our Order; but the "sweet vale of

Mowbray" was wrapt in mist and rain, and the boys' holiday spoilt. I

gave a lecture to them that evening on the lighter side of Brazil, with

stories of snakes and niggers; and another next evening on the work of

{202} the religious orders, especially our Benedictines, in the

evangelization of that vast country. I lectured in the new college

theatre, a really fine room, and acoustically very satisfactory, though

I did not care for the semi-ecclesiastical woodwork. When I got back

to Fort Augustus a few days later, I found Lovat, Lochiel, and other

local magnates there, discussing the fate of our poor little railway,

which the N.B. Company, tired of working it at a loss for several

years, had given notice to close after New Year.[10] Two pieces of

news reached me soon after my arrival--one that Congregation at Oxford

had declined, by a good majority, to abolish compulsory Greek; the

other that the Brazilian Navy was in full revolt, and the crews of

their two new Dreadnoughts (one the _Sao Paulo_, whose captain and crew

had come to England with me) were firing their big guns from the

harbour into the city! I could only hope that our poor abbey, which

must have been in the direct line of fire, had not suffered.[11]

My own plans were almost matured for returning to Brazil early in 1911;

but it seemed prudent now to "wait and see" if this naval _emeute_

really portended anything like a general revolution. Meanwhile I had

been authorized to accept an invitation from the Norfolks to stay with

them at Norwich, for the opening of the great church which had been

many years a-building, at the Duke's expense, in his {203} titular

city. He had taken the "Maid's Head," a delightful old half-timbered

inn, for our party, which pretty well filled it. I said an early mass

on Our Lady's _festa_, December 8, in the lady-chapel (a memorial of

the Duke's first wife),[12] of the vast, austere, and splendid

church--the only modern church in which I have ever felt as if I were

in a mediaeval cathedral. Breakfasting afterwards with the

clergy--mostly Irish--the news of Ninian Crichton Stuart's victory at

Cardiff[13] (which came to us by wire) was a bit of a bombshell; but

the "Maid's Head" party were of course delighted. The inaugural

services were very splendid, though unduly prolonged by a sermon an

hour long; and though for once there was no after-luncheon oratory, the

bishop preached for another full hour in the evening. The tediousness

of my long journey back to Scotland next day was aggravated by an

amateur politician (with a wheezy cough) in my carriage, who bored me

almost to tears with a _rechauffe_ of his speeches at various

election-meetings; but I consoled myself by reading in an evening paper

that the Unionist candidate for Ayr had increased his majority

five-fold. At Edinburgh I came on my energetic old brother-in-law

Glasgow, who had come in from Ayrshire (he was then not far off

seventy-eight) to dine at a naval banquet and to vote for the

Representative Peers. I went for the week-end to the Kerrs at

Woodburn, meeting {204} there a serious young publisher, who offered me

very good terms to write a detailed history--it has never yet been

written--of Scottish Catholicism since the Reformation: a fascinating

subject, and one with which I should have loved to grapple, but life is

too short to do all, or even half, that one would like to do.

With an hour or two to spare in Glasgow on my way to the Highlands, I

lunched with my friend (the friendship was personal, not political) the

editor of the _Observer_, at his Radical Club. In the middle of the

meal a member rose with a long face, and announced an unexpected

Unionist victory at Tavistock--whereat, to the consternation of every

one, I cheered loudly! I reached Fort Augustus the same evening, to

learn of the death, at the advanced age of ninety-three, of our kind

old friend and neighbour Mrs. Ellice of Invergarry, one of the last of

the great landladies who a few years before had by a curious

coincidence owned and managed (very capably, too) some of the largest

estates in the North of Scotland. The vast Glengarry property, once

the domain of the Macdonells, and stretching from the Caledonian Canal

to the western seaboard, had been under Mrs. Ellice's sole control

since her husband's death more than thirty years before. We at Fort

Augustus, as well as the numerous Highland Catholics resident on her

estate, and under our spiritual care, had always found in her a most

friendly, kind and considerate neighbour.

Two happenings I recall at Fort Augustus during these December

days--one a remarkably interesting lecture on the theory of

lake-temperature from a Mr. Wedderburn, who had been recently on the

{205} Scottish loch survey; and the other event was our all (that is,

all the priests of the monastery) being called on to vow, promise,

swear and sign, individually and collectively, our adherence to the

Creed of Pope Pius IV., which _I_ had sworn to some thirty-six years

before.[14] This act of submission, enjoined on every Catholic priest

in Christendom, was part of the vigorous campaign against Modernism

initiated by Pope Pius X. Having discharged this duty, I betook myself

to Keir, to spend Christmas with the Stirlings. It was a family party,

including the Lovats and a few others, and we spent the season in

homely Dickens fashion, with ghost-stories and snapdragon and a

priceless Early Victorian conjurer in a crumpled dress suit, who

accompanied tricks of really incredible antiquity with a "patter"

almost prehistoric. One day we drove down to survey the grand old

cathedral of Dunblane, very carefully restored (of course for

Presbyterian worship) since I had last seen it. As we entered, we

heard the opening strains of Elgar's _Ave Verum_--

[Illustration: Music fragment: Ave verum cor-pus na-tum Ex Ma-ri-a

Vir-gi-ne! etc.]

(a Eucharistic hymn by a Catholic composer!) being played on a fine

organ, and wondered what old John Knox would have thought about it all.

Meanwhile the Catholics of Dunblane, a devout and fervent little flock

(so I was told), had perforce to content themselves with a poor loft,

where I preached {206} to them on two Sundays. At Stirling, not far

distant, there was a new church designed by Pugin--a rather dismal and

angular edifice, but anyhow spacious and well kept. On my return

journey to Fort Augustus, I found myself condemned, by the unholy

rivalry of the Caledonian and North British Railways, to a four hours'

wait at Crianlarich, where I found the temperature, on a frosty January

morning, quite as "invigorating" as did the fabled tourist.[15] I had

a few busy days at the abbey preparing for my return to South America.

My passage was booked for the middle of January: I had devoted a week

to farewells to relatives and friends--and then came the anti-climax!

On the very day on which (like the poor Sisters of Mercy) I was to have

"breasted the billows of the Atlantic"[16] _en route_ for Brazil, I

received so discouraging and peremptory a letter from my London

oculist, as to the risk to my remaining eye of a possibly stormy winter

voyage, that I had perforce to abandon the idea, and to return (like

the bad sixpence of poor Grissell's story)[17] to my {207} northern

monastery, where I received so brotherly a welcome home that I did not,

after the first disappointment, regret the change of plan. I was

inducted again into my old office of librarian (first entrusted to me

twenty-seven years before); and our young organist having gone into

residence at the Benedictine Hall at Oxford, I acted for a time as his

substitute. The post of subprior being presently vacated by the

departure of the then holder of the office for a Liverpool mission,

that also was committed to me; and as our good prior was at this time

to some extent invalided, I found myself pretty fully occupied, more

especially as I had in those days a curiously cosmopolitan

correspondence (much of it on literary or antiquarian matters), which

could not be neglected. I recall receiving by a single mail (on St.

Benedict's Day, as it chanced), letters from India, North America,

Brazil, Egypt, Germany, Belgium, Italy, and Soudan!

[1] Alan, the Glasgows' youngest son, had taken up flying most

enthusiastically, living in a shed at Brooklands (his mechanic acting

as his cook), and practising continually with his Avis monoplane,

which, like himself, was of purely Scottish origin. He had been the

third flying-man to gain an aero-certificate on a machine of British

design and build.

[2] My nephew's recovery was slow and tedious; but he was ultimately

restored to health.

[3] Her grandmother, Emma Lady Ribblesdale (born a Mure of Caldwell)

was my father's first cousin.

[4] The word seems ungrateful: the time was not really wasted, for I

had done my best and knew the worst, and the suspense was anyhow over.

[5] Gathorne Hardy, who turned Gladstone out of his seat for Oxford

University in 1865, and was afterwards successively Home Secretary and

Secretary for War and for India. His grandson the third Earl (my

nephew by marriage) broke away from the Tory traditions of the family,

sold Hemsted Park to one of the Harmsworths, and set up a new home for

himself in Suffolk.

[6] "I believe she is very tall and very religious--if you notice, it

is generally short, squat people who are atheists."--_The Green

Carnation_.

[7] Possibly the last spectacle of the kind at the Oratory (but that

was in the old tin church) had been the apparition of the youthful Earl

of Loudoun in Campbell tartan kilt and philabeg, acting as best man to

his cousin Lord Bute on the latter's memorable wedding-day, April 16,

1872.

[8] The stonemason of to-day imitates (usually very badly, and with

deplorable result) the printing of a book, not in the least realizing

that a lapidary inscription is something quite different from a

sentence struck off movable metal types.

[9] It was hardly a month since the Revolution of October 3, 1910, had

driven the unfortunate youth from the uneasy throne which he had

occupied since the cruel murder of his father and brother, in the

streets of Lisbon, on February 1, 1908.

[10] The negotiations resulted in a respite for six months, after which

financial arrangements of some kind were made for keeping the line open

for the future.

[11] It was, as a matter of fact, considerably damaged: moreover, one

of the shells fired by the insurgents not only inflicted serious injury

on the Prior, Dom Joachim de Luna, but blew the poor tailor of the

monastery into atoms.

[12] Artistically reminiscent of "Duchess Flora" were the elaborate

carvings in this chapel, conventional but very charming representations

of English wild flowers.

[13] A General Election--"Peers _v._ People," as the Radicals called

it--was at this time in progress. Ninian's election for Cardiff came

as a considerable surprise to the Liberals, as well as a triumph to the

Unionists.

[14] When I escaped from the City of Confusion into the Church of God,

at Rome, on March 25, 1875.

[15] "Isn't this invigorating?" exclaimed an English traveller, as he

emerged from his stuffy carriage early on a breezy August day. "No,

sir," said the stolid Highland station-master: "it's just Crianlarich!"

[16] "In May, 1842, Sisters Ursula, Frances, and Rose left the

parent-house for the Far West--the first Sisters of Mercy who had ever

breasted the billows of the Atlantic."--_Annals of the Sisters of

Mercy_, vol. III., p. 16. It really reads as though the good nuns had

swum across!

[17] "In Italy," he said to me once, "one is welcomed back with an

embrace and a cordial 'Ben ritornato, signore!' but coming back here to

Oxford, I call to pay my respects to the good Jesuit Fathers; and the

old brother who opens the door only grumbles out, 'Well, Mr. Grissell,

here you are, back again, _like sixpenn'orth of bad halfpennies!_'"

{208}

A New Medley of Memories · 第 11 / 14 章