canoe, and at 4.30 a.m. we started against wind and tide, rain, too, at
intervals; but having much to talk about of past events and future
plans, the twenty miles of distance soon disappeared, and about noon we
crossed the bar and entered the "inlet of Kahtla." On the north side of
the inlet stands, on an eminence, "the Church of God;" on either side
of it, spreads out the village of Metlakahtla, skirting two bays whose
beaches are at once a landing-place for its inhabitants and shelter for
the canoes. As we approached the landing-place two guns were fired and
flags displayed from house to house--conspicuous by a string of them
reaching the Mission House verandah, inscribed, "A REAL WELCOME TO
METLAKAHTLA." Near to this were assembled all the village--men, women,
and children--gaily dressed.
The choice of this harbour of refuge is one of God's many providential
dealings with this Mission. It is defended from the storms and heavy
rolling swell of the Pacific Ocean by large and lofty islands, forming
a breakwater across its entrance, extending as far out to sea as twenty
miles, inside of which smaller islands, numbering nearly a hundred,
form channels leading up to the foot of the snow-capped mountains, 15
or 18 miles distant, on many of which are the village gardens where
potatoes and other vegetables are grown.
The rise and fall of the tide is very great, often 25ft. It was low
water when we arrived, and difficult to land, but this had been
anticipated. We found a small canoe covered over with pretty mats
(Indian manufacture from the cedar bark). Into this we were
transferred, and when comfortably seated, we were lifted quietly on the
shoulders of the young men, and carried up to a platform close to the
entrance of the Mission House. We were surrounded by kind hearts who
had been long expecting us, and the flowers and garlands had withered;
but joy was depicted in their countenances. The body of constables,
dressed in a uniform given by the Government, presented arms; the small
band played; and then all the voices, about 250 in number (the larger
portion of the population being at the fisheries), joined in that
beautiful hymn--
"What a friend we have in Jesus,
All our sins and griefs to bear,
What a privilege to carry
Everything to God in prayer."
Then came the shaking of hands, and let me remind you a Metlakahtla
Indian can give a hearty shake of the hand!
Rain obliged us to seek shelter indoors. We all met again in the
church in the evening, changing the weekly service to Tuesday. It was
my privilege to address more than two hundred from Romans viii. 31--"If
God be for us, who can be against us?" It was an evening never to be
forgotten. After 25 years' absence, God had brought me back again,
amidst all the sundry and manifold changes of the world, face to face
with those tribes amongst whom I had witnessed only bloodshed,
cannibalism, and heathen devilry in its grossest form. Now they were
sitting at the feet of Jesus, clothed, and in their right mind. The
very churchwarden, dear old Peter Simpson, who opened the church-door
for me, was the chief of one of the cannibal tribes.
Words cannot describe the happy month I spent in this happy Christian
circle. I can only copy from my rough notes, written on the spot, some
of the events which occurred to me.
In the Mission House, I found the Rev. W. H. Collison, and his wife
and two children (whom I had known previous to their leaving England),
and Mr. and Mrs. Schutt and children. There was plenty of room for all,
and in addition to our party there were five girls, boarders in the
house, living in a dormitory upstairs with a cheerful look-out. These
are industrial pupils training for their future position as wives and
mothers. Each girl has her own recess. As many as fourteen boarders
have been in the house at one time, and God has greatly blessed the
instruction they have received, the Christian young men preferring a
wife who has passed through the Mission training to all others.
It rained so incessantly the first three days, that nothing could be
done outside. The meetings for Morning and Evening Prayers, in which
the boarders joined, were very precious. Sankey's hymns, a portion of
God's Word, explained by Duncan in Tsimshean, and united prayer, began
and closed the day.
On 21st June, I met by appointment in Duncan's room eight of the
twelve elders of the village (four absent at the fisheries) to consult
about the programme during my stay. It was no formal assembly, but a
council of wise heads met together, all taking a deep interest in the
affairs of the village, and all speaking out boldly.
_June 22nd._--Still rain, but all the men and some of the women
assembled in the school-room, to hear an address from me and to give me
their welcome in reply. We met at 5 p.m., and did not separate until 8
o'clock. Let me give one or two of the speeches addressed to me:--
GEORGE USHER (Indian name, Comtsool) said--"I also want to speak,
though I occupy not the seat of a chief, but only that of a common man
who sits at the door. Your seat is the seat of honour at the upper end
of the house. Yet I will address you.
"It is wonderful to us to see what changes have come amongst us since
your last visit, and it is wonderful to us to see how much good some
people are capable of doing for others. We think of your good work and
are amazed. If it shall so be that you leave this world before us to
see God, remember we are trying to follow you, to be with you before
long. We shall see you again in heaven."
JAMES LEEQUNEESH (chief) said--"Shimoigit, what we once were is known
to you, for you saw our state. I was a young man when you first saw us.
We profited by your visit, but you suffered by us. Which of us is not
now ashamed when we see your face again, and remember the injuries we
did to you? But we were then in darkness. We were like the wild
animals. We were living in mud and darkness. You got a hoe. You got
seed. You designed a garden, though on a very unfavourable site. It was
God who touched your heart. Then the workmen came. Your work was among
thorns, and you suffered, but so did Jesus the Son of God work among
thorns and suffer. So you then got a spade and turned over the ground
and put in the seed. God was with you, and now you have come back to
see what God has done. You are pleased to see that the plants have come
up a little. Yes, the good seed has grown, and this, sir, is the result
of your work. God put all this into your heart, and our own hearts are
deeply affected and aroused within us by your coming again to see us."
ADAM GORDON (Kshimkeaiks) said--"Sir, though I have not prepared a
speech, I cannot help saying my heart is thankful to tell you how happy
we all are. It is while we are still in the fight you have come to see
us. Like as children rejoice to see a father, so we rejoice to see you.
We are fighting every day with sin, but we shall cease fighting; by-and
-by, and be happy when we get to the other shore. Then when we reach
over there we shall be truly happy."
PETER SIMPSON (Thrakshakaun).--"I remember when you put your ship on
shore at Fort Simpson. I remember how nearly we were fighting, and the
guns were prepared. You had a rope put out to keep us off, and we heard
it said that you would fire at us from your ship when you got afloat.
We knew not what you had rather planned to do. You planned to bring us
the Gospel, and that has opened our eyes to heavenly things, and oh!
how beautiful, very beautiful indeed! Metlakahtla is like a ship just
launched. You are here to give us advice where to put the mast in, and
how to steer. I address you thus, though you are great and I am poor.
But Jesus despises not the poor. The Tsimsheans were very low, yet
Jesus raised us, and we are now anxious for all our brethren, the
tribes around us, to be made alive. We see them now willing to hear,
and we are trying to help them. We know God put it into your heart to
come here, and brought you here; God bless you for coming."
_Sunday, 23rd_.--To me, all days at Metlakahtla are solemnly
sacred, but Sunday, of all others, especially so. Canoes are all drawn
up on the beach above high water mark. Not a sound is heard. The
children are assembled before morning service to receive special
instruction from Mr. Duncan. The church bell rings, and the whole
population pour out from their houses--men, women, and children--to
worship God in His own house, built by their own hands. As it has been
remarked, "No need to lock doors, for no one is there to enter the
empty houses." Two policemen are on duty in uniform, to keep order
during service time. The service begins with a chant in Tsimshean, "I
wilt arise and go to my Father," etc., Mr. Schutt leading with the
harmonium; the Litany Prayers in Tsimshean follow, closing with the
Lord's Prayer. The address lasts nearly an hour. Such is the deep
attention of many present, that having once known their former lives, I
know that the love of God shed abroad in their hearts by the Holy Ghost
can alone have produced so marvellous a change.
First, there was a very old woman, staff in hand, stepping with such
solemn earnestness; after her came one who had been a very notorious
gambler; though now almost crippled with disease, yet he seemed to be
forgetting infirmity, and literally to be leaping along. Next followed
a dissipated youth, now reclaimed; and after him a chief, who had dared
a few years ago proudly to lift up his hand to stop the work of God,
now with humble mien, wending his way to worship. Then came a once
still more haughty man of rank; and after him a mother carrying her
infant child, and a father leading his infant son; a grandmother, with
more than a mother's care, watching the steps of her little grandson.
Then followed a widow; then a young woman, who had been snatched from
the jaws of infamy; after them came a once roving spirit, now meek and
settled; then, a once notorious chief; and the last I reflected upon
was a man walking with solemn gait, yet hope fixed in his look. When a
heathen he was a murderer: he had murdered his own wife and burnt her
to ashes. What are all these now, I thought, and the crowds that
accompany them! Whither are they going? and what to do? Blessed sight
for angels! Oh, the preciousness of a Saviour's blood! If there is joy
in heaven ever one sinner that repenteth, with what delight must angels
gaze on such a sight as this! I felt such a glow of gratitude to God
come over me, my heart was stirred within me, for who could have joined
such a congregation as this in worship and have been cold, and who
could have preached the Gospel to such a people and not have felt he
was standing where God was working?
After morning service, a class of female adults remain in the church,
and receive further instruction from the native teachers. At the same
time the male adults meet Mr. Duncan in his own room. At three, the
church bell again assembles all the village to worship; and again at
seven, when they generally meet in the schoolroom, the address being
given by one of the native teachers.
_June 26th._--Evening Service in schoolroom, about 90 in
attendance, most of the village absent at the fisheries. Some strange
Indians arrived today from a distance. A large building has been
erected on the shore, close to the general landing-place, for the
accommodation of such visitors; here they deposit their property
(brought for trade), and take up their abode, finding firewood ready
for use. As soon as they are comfortably housed and mashed (the latter
a positive injunction), they come to Duncan's room, where he receives
them, generally having something new and amusing to show them. To-day I
was present at their interview, when Duncan showed them a mechanical
picture, in which a "ship at sea," a "wind-mill," and a "water-mill,"
worked by machinery, are moved at the same time. A galvanic battery is
also a source of wonder and astonishment. After some time he explains
to his audience the cause and effects, exposing, too, the tricks
formerly played upon their ignorant minds by their own medicine men.
The visit is returned, and in that market-house the good seed of the
Word of God has been frequently sown by this faithful man of God to
casual visitors, and through them to the surrounding tribes.
A deputation also arrived from the Fort Simpson Indians to consult
with the Metlakahtla Indians how to meet the pending difficulties with
the White men as regards the Indian rights as to the salmon-fisheries.
The bugle sounded to call together the Council. Both parties assembled
together in the school-house, and consulted together for several hours;
and when they had finished, they sent for Duncan to tell him the
result. I mention this circumstance as one of the blessed results of
their new life in Christ Jesus. In their heathen days this difficulty
with white men would have been met with murder and destruction. In
1859, I was present at an assemblage of chiefs, when gold was first
discovered in British Columbia, and when more than twenty thousand
white men rushed into that country, bringing with them vice and
disease. The question was asked by the head chief, "How shall we treat
these strangers? Shall we cut their throats?"--going through the motion
of doing so in an unmistakable manner. In God's providence, the man in
authority had great influence over the Indian mind and action. A proper
answer was returned, and the lives of hundreds, nay, thousands were
saved.
27th.--Visited the village saw-mill, conveniently situated at the head
of a sheltered inlet about a mile and a quarter from the village. It is
managed entirely by natives, the head Indian receiving 8 dols., or L1
12s., the second, 6 dols., or L1 4s., the third, 5 dols., or L1 per
week. Lumber of all sizes is supplied to the village for building
purposes at moderate prices. Thus the Indians are kept independent of
the white man's help. Duncan told me a curious story of an old Indian
who came to him, when the mill was being erected, and asked him, "Are
you going to make water saw wood?" He got his answer, and exclaimed,
"When I see it I die, to go and tell it to my chief."
I visited the widow of Samuel Marsden (Shooquanahts), the first fruits
of this Mission. He was baptized, 21st July, 1861, and died May 8th,
1878, a Native elder, a ripe Christian, a faithful follower of the Lord
Jesus; and the clear testimony he bore on his death-bed to the
blessedness of the Christian hope and the presence of the Saviour was
very cheering. Duncan adds, "His parting words to myself and the elders
were very affecting; his end indeed was peace, and such a funeral the
Indians never saw." Catherine, his widow, is left with two children,
and lives in the same house with Catherine Ryan, whose husband died
about the same time as Samuel, leaving her with four children. I did
indeed wish for some of the friends of the Mission to have witnessed
the touching simple faith of these two brands plucked out of the fire,
as I read to them a few words from John xi., "Jesus wept." after which
we joined in prayer.
Shortly after my return to the Mission House, Samuel Marsden's father
called to see me. He was present at my first visit to Fort Simpson in
1853. Poor fellow! he looked quite cast down; he said his heart was
sad, he wanted to speak to me. "I have felt," he said, "that I must see
you. It has been on my heart to see you. I saw your ship long ago when
you first came to Fort Simpson. I saw you then also. I was a young man
then. I had a son, an only son, he was then very young. You did not
forget us. When Mr. Duncan came, I sent my son to learn. I was anxious
to walk in God's way myself; but I was very wicked. But I was anxious
that my son should learn; he learned quickly and had but one heart.
When Mr. Duncan came to Metlakahtla, Samuel was one of the first to
accompany him, and afterwards, when Mr. Duncan had to punish any of the
Indians of the villages around who were guilty of crime, Samuel was
always ready to go and assist in bringing them to justice. I was not
afraid, because I knew he was doing right, and God would defend him and
save him. Well, he continued to grow stronger in God's way, and was
anxious to work for Him, wherever he went telling the people about the
Son of God, the Saviour; but he became sick and was very weak for some
time. However, he almost recovered, and when the news came last autumn
that you were coming, no one was so glad as Samuel. He was rejoiced to
think that he would see you again; but it was not to be so now. God was
pleased to call him to Himself before you came. He is in heaven now.
Chief! this is why I was not present at the meeting to welcome you. My
strength was gone, my only son, I thought he would strengthen my heart
now that I am an old man; but God knows it is best. I felt that I could
not speak with the rest, as my heart was so weak. But there was a
burden on my heart. I felt so much that if Samuel were alive, he would
have much to tell you, and I felt that I could not rest until I told
you all this, as Samuel would have me do were he alive. I thank you
much for your sympathy and encouragement to us. My heart is very full.
I am very grateful to you, chief. When you pray, will you ask God to
make my heart strong? I want to be faithful too, I want to meet my son
and all of you above. I ask your prayers to help me. My heart is strong
and glad now, because I have seen you and told you my heart."
One afternoon the girls in the Mission House, five in number, were
given a half-holiday, to pick berries on the opposite islands. We
availed ourselves of the fine weather and this picnic to see the
village gardens. We started in a large canoe (every Indian from his
earliest childhood can handle a paddle), towards the head of the
estuary, which leads through a labyrinth of islands, to the pine-clad
shores of the snowy mountains, nearly twenty miles distance. We landed
at some of the islands, most of which have some cultivated land. Every
man and woman had a certain portion of ground measured out by Duncan,
when the village was first settled, and set apart by him for their sole
use. As the children advance in years, an addition is made. At present
only potatoes are planted, and these are not properly attended to, for
just at the time when labour is required for weeding, hoeing, etc., all
hands are absent at the fishing stations. Duncan hopes, in course of
time, to make better arrangements. How we all enjoyed ourselves in that
holiday trip!--all of us like children escaped from school. Berries
were plentiful, and we returned by moonlight, paddling and singing
hymns alternately, till the sparkling wood fire in the Mission-room
welcomed us to our home.
One evening I was invited by Matthews (one of the elders, and a good
carpenter), to hear him perform on a parlour organ, which he had bought
at Victoria for 80 dollars (L16). It was a wondrous sight--the Indian
and his wife at his side playing and singing many of the well-known
Sankey's hymns! Had I accepted an invitation to visit an Indian hut in
years gone by, I should have seen all kinds of devilry, witchcraft, and
cannibalism, often followed by murder. How strikingly were the words of
Holy Scripture brought before me, "Is anything too hard for the Lord?"
Much of the missionaries' time is taken up in visiting and recovering
the sick. Collison and I went together one morning to visit a young
woman, a Kitsalass (the people of the Rapids on Skeena river), dying of
consumption; her husband, an affectionate nurse for four months, and
most patient, seldom leaving her. I read Ps. xxv. 18, "Look upon my
affliction and my pain, and forgive me all my sins;" then a short
prayer, all around her kneeling. From my note-book I copy the
conversation which followed, noted down at the time. "Do you remember
what I said to you from God's Word?" She felt she was going to leave
the world; she was always thinking of Jesus and crying unto Him. "Have
you any fear of death?" "No! because I love Jesus." We replied, "He
first loved us!" The husband then spoke. He had been praying three
times a day. They did not know anything of their sinfulness before this
affliction. "I was greatly troubled at the thought of my wife leaving
me, but my heart is satisfied now, my heart is strong now, because the
Saviour has had mercy on us. He has shown us the way, and though it is
very hard, yet I know it will be for her gain."
Previous to this interview, her great desire had been to return to her
own people, but now she asked to be buried with the Christians at
Metlakahtla. She hesitated before this to ask to be baptized; she had
it on her heart to ask, but now she felt her time was short, and she
wished to be numbered amongst the people of God. Baptism was then
administered to her, in the simple words of our Lord, "Go ye,
therefore, and make Christians of all nations, baptizing them in the
name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost." As a proof
of her humility, she asked to be baptized in her heathen name
("Lukaloosh"), not being worthy of a white woman's name, which is
always given.
After two days I visited her again, and found her much weaker,
breathing with difficulty. During a sleepless night she exclaimed, "I
know where I am going, it is no longer darkness; Jesus is with me."
These last words were frequently repeated. In the morning her husband
came to say, "she was fast departing, her heart beating faintly." He
was comforted by repeating his wife's last words, "Jesus is with me."
Fine weather having now set in, I invited all the village to a feast.
Two guns were fixed to recall the absentees, who were at their daily
work. Tables were soon spread on the green in front of the Church, each
guest bringing cups and spoons. Coffee and biscuit was provided in
abundance. Before they were seated, all assembled on the steps of the
Church, and were photographed by Duncan, [Footnote: A picture drawn
from this photograph appeared in the Church Gleaner of July, 1879.] to
the amusement of all present. A blessing was then asked, and the feast
commenced. Games followed, singing, and cheering, the latter very
hearty. At nine o'clock all separated to go to their homes.
_1st July_.--In the early morning paddled over to the island set
apart as the burial ground of Metlakahtla. All the graves are
surrounded with a neat wooden fence, and several marble headstones are
erected. I copied the three nearest to the landing-place:--
IN MEMORY OF
MARK SHELDON,
_Who was drowned in the Skeena. River, Aug. 15th, 1870,_
AGED 30 YEARS.
"Be ye therefore ready also."--LUKE xii. 40.
* * * * *
IN MEMORY OF
LOUISA STAVELY,
_Who died May 2nd, 1877,_
AGED 32 YEARS.
* * * * *
IN MEMORY OP
PAUL LEGAIC,
(Head Chief of the Tsimshean Indians),
_Who died May 6th, 1869,_
AGED 55 YEARS.
"Is not this a brand plucked out of the fire?"
* * * * *
On 2nd July I left Metlakahtla in a large canoe, paddled by five
Kincolith Indians, to visit the C. M. S. Mission at Kincolith, "place
of the scalps," Naas River, established by the Rev. R. Doolan, in July,
1864. Since then the Mission has been removed lower down the river, at
the entrance of the Portland Canal, beautifully situated, hedged in by
high mountain peaks, 3,807 and 3,385 feet in height. Inland there is
good farming land, and many native villages, with souls thirsting for
the Gospel news. The following day we sighted the church; soon the
houses were visible. Flags were run up, and as we approached the
landing-place, a gun was fired, and we could see the inhabitants
hastening to welcome us, dressed in their best, some in very bright
colours.
Being high water we landed easily. Many were the kind words of welcome
floating in the bright sunshine. "WELCOME TO KINCOLITH," in large
letters of the fern leaves; "COME TO NAAS RIVER"; "TIS DAY
(_sic_), WE ARE ALL VERY HAPPY TO SEE YOU, SIR"--their own
composition and spelling. As we landed guns were fired. We were
welcomed at the Mission House by Mrs. Tomlinson and her five children.
Soon after, we all met again in the schoolroom, where I gave a short
address.