is the barrow of _Ænomaus_; of earth, incompass’d with stones. Again
in _Arcadic._ he says, at _Pergamus_ is the monument of _Auge_, being
a barrow of earth, incompass’d with a circle of stones. In the same
_Arcadic._ Book VIII. he says, he studiously contemplated the _tumulus_
of _Æpitus_, because _Homer_ makes mention of it, admiring it, for he
had seen no finer. ’Twas made of earth not very large, incompass’d
with a circle of stones. Thus naturally does a genius admire works of
antiquity! he seems thereby to antedate his own being, and to have
lived in those times long before. He writes again _in Bœot._ at the
barrow of _Amphion_ are many rude stones, which they report, were
the stones he drew together with his harp. Likewise there are three
rude stones near the tomb of _Melanippus_; and the antiquarians say,
_Tydeus_ was buried there.
To go much higher in time, and equal to those we have been describing:
_Genes._ xxxv. 20. _Jacob set a pillar upon Rachel’s grave._
[Illustration:
TAB. XXIV.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._
_Prospect of Bekampton Avenue from Longston long Barrow 1724._
☉☉ _Two Stones of the Avenue at the Crossing of the two Roads
demolish’d by Rᵈ. Fowler._ B. _the Termination of the avenue._]
CHAP. X.
_Of the arch-druid’s house on_ Temple-downs, _his barrow. Of their
places of judicature, and execution. Another Druid’s house
call’d_ old-Chapel _towards_ Winterburn-basset. _Another under
the_ Hakpen-hill, _over_ Kennet _avenue. Another at_ Bekamton.
_Another under_ Runway-hill. _A_ Kist-vaen _in_ Monkton-fields.
_Another in_ Clatford-bottom _by_ Marlborough. _Some general
reflexions. They must have been a very great and learned
people, that made this work of_ Abury. _The parish of_ Abury
_now comprehends many townships, taken in by the extent of the
snake. A notion of the snake, and its sacred quality retain’d
by the people, reporting no snake will live within this tract.
A conjecture concerning the time of founding this temple, which
carries it up to the time of_ Abraham, _or very near it; deduc’d
from the variation of the compass observ’d there. A mathematical
designation of the termination of_ Bekamton _avenue. The major
part of_ Virgil’s _fifth_ Æneid _is a description of like
anniversary games celebrated here, in old times._
There is still another of these long archdruids’ _tumuli_ at _Abury_,
which leads me to describe a kind of ancient monuments which I meet
with here, and near _Stonehenge_ and elsewhere; which I take to be
houses of the Druids, or their courts of judicature, or both. The
principal of them here, is a remarkable thing, upon the _Hakpen-hill_
east of _Abury_, near a mile, between it and _Rockley_. That part
of the downs thereabouts is called _Temple-downs_, and the thing is
called _old Chapel_. Lord _Winchelsea_, Lord and Lady _Hertford_ and
myself were curious in observing it, _July 6, 1723_. ’Tis a large
square, intrench’d, 110 druid cubits by 130, like a little _Roman_
camp, with one entrance on the south-west side, towards _Abury_: for
it is posited with accuracy, (as all these works are) from north-east
to south-west. The situation of the place is high, and has a descent,
quite round three of its sides; the verge of the descent inclosing it
like a horseshoe. The entrance is on the side next _Abury_, on the
isthmus of the peninsula (as it were,) on the shortest side of the
square, the south-west. It is made of a vallum and ditch; beyond that,
a row of flat stones set quite round and pretty close to one another,
like a wall. Beyond that, another lesser ditch. There are stones too
set on each side the entrance. On the north-west side is a large long
barrow 50 cubits in length, with two great stone works upon it. One
on the end next the great inclos’d place, we have been describing:
another stonework towards the other end; which seems to have been a
semicircular cove, or _demi-ellipsis_ consisting of five great stones;
a _Stonehenge_ cell in miniature, but now in ruins. This probably gave
the name of _old Chapel_ to the place; the barrow likewise has been set
quite round with great stones.
In the second stone-work, one stone lies flat on the ground, along the
middle line of the barrow. On each side a flat stone stands upright,
and two flat stones stand upright at right angles, as wings to ’em.
Upon them I suppose other stones were pil’d as a _kist-vaen_. Here
probably lies the body of the interr’d. The stones are generally very
large, about ten feet long.
The whole I take to have been the palace and interment of an
arch-druid, and his tribunal or seat of justice. ’Tis posited exactly
enough south-east and north-west. The learned Mr. _Rowland_, who wrote
the history of the _Isle of Mona_, describes just such works as this in
that place, and calls them houses of the Druids.
This place stands near a great cavity call’d _Balmore-pond_, which
seems to have some regard to this work. ’Tis a pyriform concavity, set
with stones on the inside. It answers exactly to _old chapel entrance_;
and the people have a report that there is a vault under it. One would
be tempted to think it was a prison, and the pond was the place of
executions, being form’d theatrically. Otherwise it might be a place of
sports and spectacles. ’Tis 150 cubits broad, 180 long, form’d like an
_Amazonian_ shield.
In a valley between here and _Rockley_, are nine round barrows of
different bulk. And upon all the highest ground thereabouts are an
infinite quantity of immense stones, or sarsens, or gray weathers, some
of as large dimensions as any at _Abury_, and lying as thick as leaves
in _autumn_. Some upon the very surface of the ground, some half sunk
in; and many deep holes whence stones have been taken, are visible.
If we descend the _Hakpen-hill_, westward from hence towards
_Winterburn-basset_, upon the declivity of the _Hakpen_, is another
Druid’s house, called too _Old Chapel_. ’Tis a square, double ditch’d,
but small ditches, in the middle a broad oblong square bank. Before it
a sort of court, nearly as big as the other. Near it, they say, they
have found much old iron and pewter. It seems to have been set round
with stones.
There is another of these places in a delightful circular hollow, under
the _Hakpen-hill_, on the west side, hanging over _Kennet_ avenue, just
180 cubits square. It lies on a northern declivity, for coolness as
one may judge. The entrance is in the middle of the lowest side. But
toward the upper side is another lesser oblong square, what we should
call a _prætorium_ in a _Roman_ camp. And to this there was a distinct
entrance on the south. ’Tis plac’d exactly north and south.
In _Bekamton_ town, near the termination of _Bekamton_ avenue, or the
snake’s tail, is such another place, call’d _Old Chapel_ or _Chapel
field_. ’Tis full of great stones, many buried under-ground. _Richard
Fowler_, that great depopulator, told me, he demolished one stone
standing near the hedge of the pasture. Near it a great stone lies upon
the mouth of an old well, as they say, but never remember that it was
open, only speak by tradition. This field belongs still to the church.
There is another very pretty place of this sort (for ought I know)
between the _Wansdike_ and _Via Badonica_, running up _Runway-hill_.
’Tis a charming pleasant concavity. An oblong square, with another
lesser, as a _prætorium_ within. In the _vallum_ are many gaps at
equal intervals. You will see a large part of it in plate XI. called
the model of a camp. ’Tis abusing our time to be tedious, either in
descriptions or enquiries, about these matters, of which ’tis
scarce possible to arrive at any certainty at this time of day. The
pleasure arising from them, is in being upon the spot, and treading the
agreeable downy turf, crowded with these antiquities; where health to
the body and amusement to the mind are mingled so effectually together.
[Illustration:
TAB. XXV.
_A View near the spot of the Termination of_ Bekampton avenue _Iuly
19. 1723._
_Stukeley delin._
_The Snakes tail._]
In _Monkton-fields_, directly north-east from _Abury_, is a monument
of four stones, which probably is a _kist-vaen_. I have exhibited a
print of it in table XXXVII. These seem to be what Mr. _Edward Llwyd_
calls _Kromlechon_, or _bowing-stones_. I believe it was a sepulchral
monument, set on a barrow, tho’ chiefly now plow’d up; and that the
great covering-stone is luxated.
Table XXXII, XXXIII, XXXIV, are views of another eminent work of this
sort, in _Clatford-bottom_ between _Abury_ and _Marlborough_, which
require no further description.
Table XXXV, two old _british_ urns found at _Sunbury_ by the _Thames_,
shewn at the antiquarian society some years ago. The inscription on the
monument of _Chyndonax_, an archdruid among the _Gauls_, of which a
large account publish’d in _french_. Father _Montfaucon_ questions the
genuineness thereof, but I think his objections are trifling.
In table XXXVI, I have etch’d the bit of the king’s bridle found in
_Silbury-hill_, the founder of _Abury_, in my possession. Underneath is
the _british_ urn which I dug up in a barrow on _Windmill-hill_ north
of _Abury_. This plate is consecrated to the memories of Sir _Robert
Halford_, knight, and _Charles Tucker_, Esq; who were very solicitous
in preserving these noble antiquities.
I have given the reader as plain and as concise a description of
these works about _Abury_, as I possibly could. We cannot but make
this general reflexion upon the whole: 1. That this temple, with the
things belonging to it, when in perfection, must have been the work
of a very great and learned people. The kind, manner, and idea of it,
shews its extreme antiquity. When we view the ruins of _Rome_, of
_Greece_, _Egypt_, _Syria_, _Persia_, or the like, we readily enough
enter into a notion of the wisdom and flourishing estate of the people
that performed them. The like we must do of these _british_ Druids.
These very works justify the high reports made concerning them in
classic authors. And if we pretend to oppose them by other reports
out of like authors, concerning the rudeness and barbarity of the
old _Britons_; the answer is obvious. They speak of different times,
or perhaps of different people, new successions from the continent,
that drove out the former possessors who performed these works, more
northward and westward. The works themselves are an evidence of the
genius of the founders. Learning commonly arrives at its height within
no long space of time. These works here have a notorious grandeur
of taste, a justness of plan, an apparent symmetry and a sufficient
niceness in the execution: In compass very extensive, in effect
magnificent and agreeable. The boldness of the imagination we cannot
sufficiently admire. When this whole _area_, which is about four miles
square, was entirely sacred ground, under the care and custody of the
Druids, one of their great seminaries or academies, every where a fine
turf, cover’d over with an infinite variety of barrows, it was a most
agreeable scene, and merely a picture.
When one traverses about this ground, an intelligent person will
discern abundance of remarkable beauties in the manner and disposition
of the temple. The wise Druids knew the internal meaning and purport
of this great symbol of the fecundity of the deity, first exerted in
producing the second person represented thereby, who with them was the
creator of all things. From the supreme proceeded the divine essences
equal to himself; but the son of the supreme formed the material
words, whence call’d the _mind_, the _creator_, and the _wisdom of the
father_, both by the Druids and us christians. And never since the
creation, was so magnificent an idea form’d in mortal minds, as this
hieroglyphic here before us made in stone-work. This snake of ours may
be near three of our common miles in length, justly laid down, its
proportions adapted to nature, its sinuosity well represented in huge
curves running contrary ways, conduced over several elevations and
depressures of ground. Two hills, one on each side the stream running
from _Abury_ to _Silbury_, hide the view of the avenues from each
other. So that probably the vulgar then knew not the true figure of the
whole, no more than now. But those that approached this place with a
purpose of religion, and that understood the mystical meaning thereof,
must be extremely affected with it; the greatest picture, no doubt,
on the globe of the earth, naturally exciting in their minds that
disposition proper for those approaches!
2. I observe that _Abury_, even now, lays its claim to all the old
appendages: the bounds of the parish taking in chiefly all that the
snake reaches, and the environs, as _Southstreet_, _West-Kennet_, and
_Bekamton_, and part of _Winterburn-basset_, and _Stan-more_ south of
_Winterburn-basset_, (they say it has been a town;) and _Overton-hill_,
_South-downs_, _West-downs_, _Cheril-hill_, almost to _Oldbury-castle_.
3. I remark, tho’ the people know nothing of the figure of a snake
made by the two avenues, yet a notion has been handed down from all
times, that gives an obscure hint of the thing, and of the prophylactic
virtue in this figure of the snake. For they say, that in all this
trail of ground, which we may call the _sacred field_, there never was
a snake seen; and if a snake should be brought hither, it would not
live. Nevertheless snakes abound in all the country round, even to
_Clatford_, between _Marlborough_ and here, but never come higher up.
This notion, I know not whether ’tis justly founded, but ’tis deeply
rooted in the mind of the inhabitants. _Pliny_ has a great deal about
the Druids’ fondness of snakes, but a little unintelligible, as we find
most of what authors have said concerning them. And we must be content
at this time, to mark out some obscure traces of things that seem to
our purpose, relating to this affair of theirs, which shall be the
subject of the next chapters.
4. When we contemplate the manner and disposition of our temple, in
regard to its parts in the circle at _Abury_, and in regard to its
position upon the cardinal points, some questions arise in our mind,
which we desire a resolution of: Concerning which I believe the hints
following will give us some satisfaction. Ever since the world began,
in building temples or places of religious assemblies, they have been
studious in setting them according to the quarters of the heavens. For
they consider’d the world as the general temple or house of God, and
that all particular temples should have a proper regard to it. The east
naturally claims a prerogative, where the sun and all the planets and
stars arise: this therefore they accounted as the face and front of
the world, or universal temple. The north then was consider’d as the
right-hand and great power of the world, the south as the left-hand or
lesser power. For when the sun approaches the northern region, passing
over the vernal equinoctial, he brings plenty, and the fulness of his
fructiferous influence; when he returns to the south, the face of
nature languishes in its winter attire. Therefore they thought the
polar region not only highest, but of most eminence and effect.
[Illustration:
TAB. XXVI.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._
_A prospect of_ Silbury hill _from the spring head of the Kennet
River. 13. May. 1724._]
Whence _Orpheus_: “Thou who holdest the scepter of the pole, venerable
on many accounts, the throne of the world in the north.”
_Psellus_ says, “the _Pandochean_ power of the world reigns in the
north.”
Hence _Plutarch_ writes, “That _Xenophon_ says of the _Egyptians_, they
thought that part where the sun rises was the face of the world; the
north was its right-hand, where the _Nile_ rises its left.” And this
helps us to explain several _Egyptian_ antiquities.
But to apply this to our purpose. We cannot but observe, that the whole
of _Abury_ temple, or _Mausoleum_, regarded as a picture, has its upper
part to the north, and its face (if we may so speak) toward the east.
Thitherward the serpent goes. That way the cove of the northern temple
opens; that way the cove of _Bekamton_ avenue; that way the face of
_Stonehenge_ temple looks. So that the Druids appear to have the same
notions with the other wise men of the oriental ancients.
This therefore shews the reason why they set their temples fronting
the east, in all antiquity, and why the coves of our works look that
way. As to the two temples at _Abury_, the northern and southern,
included in the great circle, it should seem that the northern one
had the preeminence, and was the more sacred of the two. As the cove
was the _adytum_ of that temple, so the whole northern temple may be
esteem’d as the _adytum_ of the whole work, the southern being as the
body of it. _Solomon_’s temple, we know, consisted of three parts: the
_adytum_, or _holy of holies_; the _holy place_, or _sanctuary_; the
_porch_. By this means there is a conformity between it and _Abury_;
and to _Stonehenge_ likewise, which has an elliptic _adytum_, a
circular or outer part, and the _area_. Doubtless the different order
of priests, and of religious offices, took up these different parts.
And, if we may give our opinion, ’tis natural to think, that because
the ring-stone is by the southern temple, there the sacrifices were
offer’d and administer’d by the lesser orders of priests, around the
_ambre_ or central pyramidal. The highest part of religion was to be
perform’d by the archdruid and the upper order of priests before the
magnificent cove of the northern temple, together with hymns, incense,
musick, and the like.
5. In my account of _Stonehenge_ I suggested a surmise, that the
Druids, in laying down these works of theirs, used a compass or
magnetic instrument; whence I founded a conjecture concerning the time
of building that temple, by observing the variation with a theodolite.
As the variation in all the works about _Stonehenge_ is between six and
seven degrees to the east of the north, I found it at _Abury_ to be
about ten degrees the same way, and as precisely as possible. This will
necessarily excite one’s attention, as there is less reason to suppose
’tis accidental. The whole work was manifestly design’d to be set on
the cardinal points of the heavens, but they all vary one way, exactly
the same quantity; and ’tis impossible to account for it in any wise,
but that they us’d a magnetic instrument. This is the reason that the
neck of the snake on _Overton-hill_ crosses the _Roman_ road running
east and west, which would otherwise have been the ground-line of this
work.
Thus _Kennet_ avenue enters the town of _Abury_ ten degrees north of
the north-west point, which north-west point was the Druids’ purpose.
The neck of the snake going down from _Overton-hill_ regards _Silbury_
precisely, and their intent was that it should be full west, but
’tis ten degrees north of the west. The meridian line of the whole
work passes from _Silbury-hill_ to the center of the temple at
_Abury_, this varies ten degrees to the east from the north-point.
The stupendous cove in the northern temple opens ten degrees east of
north-east. It was their purpose that it should regard the north-east.
The diameter of the great circle of the great stones at _Abury_, on
which the north and south temples are built, was design’d to have
been set on the line from north-west to south-east, but it verges ten
degrees northward; and so of all other particulars. And by this very
means we may, at any time, point out the line of the termination of
_Bekamton_ avenue, tho’ entirely destroy’d. For from _Silbury-hill_,
it was design’d by the Druids to have been set full west, as
_Overton-hill_ full east. Therefore a line mark’d from _Silbury-hill_,
ten degrees north of the west point, and at the proper length of the
avenue, being 4000 cubits, an eastern mile, determines the spot where
_Bekamton_ avenue ended. That spot is south of the square inclosure
going up to _Cheril-hill_, where _Silbury-hill_ bears ten degrees
south of east, where _Abury_ steeple bears twenty-five degrees west of
south-west. From _Silbury-hill_ you mark it by the line that goes to
_Oldbury_ camp, on the left hand of _Cheril-hill_. In that line was the
termination of _Bekamton_ avenue; it being the intention of the Druids
to place the founder’s _tumulus_ or _mausoleum_ of _Silbury-hill_ in
the middle, between the two ends of the avenue, the head and tail of
the snake, upon the east and west line, and exactly south of the center
of the great circle at _Abury_. This whole work therefore was properly
the _mausoleum_, or made, as it were, one _tumulus_ over the founder. A
prophylactic form’d by the great symbol of the deity, guarded the ashes
of the deceased hero. And from this custom in mythologic times, they
invented the notion of a snake being the genius of departed heroes; or
of such being turn’d into snakes and the like, as is said of _Cadmus_,
and many more.
Thus _Virgil_ describing _Æneas_ celebrating the anniversary of his
father’s death, at his _tumulus_ in _Sicily_, recites the ancient rites
practis’d at these places and on these occasions, and introduces a
snake creeping out of the _adytum_ of the _tumulus_, passing by the
altars and holy utensils, and retiring again, in _Æneid_ V.
————_Adytis cùm lubricus anguis ab imis
Septem ingens gyros, septena volumina traxit,
Amplexus placidè tumulum_———————— &c.
_Hoc magis inceptos genitori instaurat honores,
Incertus geniumne loci, famulumne parentis
Esse putet_————
Much might I recite to our purpose out of the ancient commentators on
this passage, to which I refer the inquisitive. From the word _adytis_
we may be apt to conclude the tomb of _Anchises_ had a cove built upon
it, as that we describ’d at _Rowldrich_. But to return.
I apprehend the reader will scarce excuse me, if I make not some
inference from that observation of the variation of the needle here
from the cardinal points. Indeed in these works of antiquity, I would
be as temperate as possible in multiplying conjectures; and to nothing
more can I pretend in this case, and that too but in gross, for we want
sufficient _data_. A future age may pronounce with more certainty, when
we know the entire revolution of the circle of the magnetic variation.
[Illustration:
TAB. XXVII.
Silbury Hill _July 11. 1723_.
_Stukeley d._
A. _The Roman road._ B. _the Snakes head or hakpen._]
Dr. _Halley_ supposes the whole period is perform’d in about the
space of 700 years. I am sufficiently satisfy’d from considering the
different effect of the weather between _Abury_ and _Stonehenge_,
the great diversity in the manner of the works, and some other
considerations, that _Abury_ must be above 700 years prior in time to
_Stonehenge_. But if we take two entire revolutions, 1400 years, and
set it 460 years before the christian _æra_, the supposed time of the
building of _Stonehenge_, it brings us, in _Usher_’s chronology, which,
I take to be the best, to the year of the death of _Sarah_, _Abraham_’s
wife, which happen’d in the summer time of the 1859th year before
Christ. This was a little before the time of _Inachus_.
By the best light I can obtain, I judge our _Tyrian Hercules_ made
his expedition into the ocean, about the latter end of _Abraham_’s
time: and most likely ’tis, that _Abury_ was the first great temple of
_Britain_, and made by the first _Phœnician_ colony that came hither;
and they made it in this very place on account of the stones of the
gray-weathers, so commodious for their purpose.
_Usher_ makes this retirement of the _Hycsi_, or royal pastors out of
_Egypt_, which was done by our _Hercules_, to be 34 years after that
date. But my numbers make it somewhat later.
[Illustration: Tho. Robinson ALBURIAE Jerostratus]
CHAP. XI.