in the ground. The stones are rough and unhewn, and were (as I
apprehend) taken from the surface of the ground. I saw stones lying
in the field north of _Norton_, not far off, of good bulk, and the
same kind as those of our antiquity. There are such in other places
hereabouts, whence the Druids took them: tho’ in the main, carry’d off
ever since, for building and other uses.
3. We observe the effect of the weather upon these works. This we are
treating of, stands in a corner of the hedge of the inclosure, near
the northern summit of the hill, “a great monument of antiquity,” says
the excellent Mr. _Camden_, “a number of vastly great stones plac’d
in a circular figure. They are of unequal height and shape, very much
ragged, impair’d and decay’d by time.” Indeed as from hence we must
form some judgment of their age, we may pronounce them not inferior
to any in that respect; corroded like worm-eaten wood, by the harsh
jaws of time, and that much more than _Stonehenge_, which is no mean
argument of its being the work of the Druids.
4. We are led to this conclusion from the name. Mr. _Camden_ calls
them _Rolle-rich_ stones. Dr. _Holland_ in his note says, in a book in
the _Exchequer_ (perhaps he means doomsday book) the town adjacent,
(whence its name) is _Rollendrich_, if it was wrote exactly, I suppose
it would be _Rholdrwyg_, which means the Druids’ _wheel_ or _circle_.
_Rhwyll_ likewise in the _British_, is _cancelli_, for these stones
are set pretty near together, so as almost to become a continued wall,
or _cancellus_. Further, the word _Roilig_ in the old _irish_ language,
signifies a church; then it imports the _Druids’_ church, _chancel_,
or _temple_, in the first acceptation of the word. We may call this
place the _Gilgal_ of _Britain_, to speak in the oriental manner, a
word equivalent to the _Celtic Rhol_, a wheel or circle, which gave
name to that famous camp or fortress where the host of _Israel_ first
pitch’d their tents in the land of _Canaan_; after they pass’d the
river _Jordan_ in a miraculous manner, dry-shod, as ’tis described
in the sublimest manner, and equal to the dignity of the subject, in
_Joshua_ iv. There also we read, that _Joshua_ caused twelve men, a
man out of each tribe, to pitch twelve stones in the channel of the
river _Jordan_, where the ark stood whilst the people pass’d over,
when the stream was cut off; they were set there for a memorial. And
they likewise took up twelve stones out of the bed of the river, and
_Joshua_ pitch’d them in _Gilgal_, in a circular form, which gave name
to the place, meaning a _rhowl_ or _wheel_. And to this he alludes in
the next chapter, in that passage, which otherwise is difficult to
be understood; for here _Joshua_ circumcised the people, that rite
having been omitted in the young race during their peregrination in the
wilderness: “And the LORD said unto _Joshua_, this day have I _rolled_
away the reproach of _Egypt_ from off you; wherefore the name of the
place is called _Gilgal_ unto this day.”
[Illustration:
TAB. VI.
_View of the Kistvaen at Rowldrich from the East._
_Stukeley del._
A. _the Druid temple at a distance._]
Commentators not apprehending this, run into many odd solutions, as not
seeing a reason between _name_ and _thing_. Some therefore suppose it
so call’d, because from hence _Joshua_ conquer’d all his enemies _round
about_, and the like. But the truth is, _Joshua_ set the stones in a
circular form, like the ancient temples; but placed no altar there,
because they had no need to use it as a temple, where the tabernacle
was present, therefore call’d it simply the _wheel_. So I doubt not
but the altar which _Moses_ built under mount _Sinai_, with twelve
pillars, was a circular work, as our Druid temples, _Exod._ xxiv. 4.
The like we ought to think of the altar which _Moses_ built, and called
_Jehovah Nissi_, which the heathen perverted into _Jupiter Nyseus_,
or _Dionysus_, _Exod._ xvii. 15. The like must be affirm’d of all the
patriarchal altars of _Abraham_, _Isaac_, and _Jacob_. These works
of ours prove it, which are but little later in time, and made in
imitation of theirs; and without a pun, or false logic, these matters
may be said to prove each other in a circle; where ’tis absurd to
demand any positive proof thro’ extreme distance of times and places.
I apprehend nothing further ought to be expected from us than to lay
together circumstantial evidence, a concurrence of numerous and strong
verisimilitudes; as is now the case with us concerning _Rowldrich_.
5. We very justly infer this is a temple of the Druids, from the
measure it is built upon. In a letter from Mr. _Roger Gale_ to me,
dated from _Worcester, Aug. 19, 1719_, having been to visit this
antiquity at my request, he tells me, the diameter of the circle is 35
yards. So the bishop of _London_ writes, the distance at _Stonehenge_
from the entrance of the area to the temple itself is 35 yards; so the
diameter of _Stonehenge_ is 35 yards. We suppose this is not measur’d
with a mathematical exactness; but when we look into the comparative
scale of _English_ feet and cubits, we discern 60 cubits of the
Druids is the measure sought for. The diameter of the outer circle of
_Stonehenge_, and this circle at _Rowldrich_, are exactly equal.
I have repeated the table of the Druid cubits collated with our
_English_ feet, which will be of service to us throughout this work,
plate II.
The circle itself is compos’d of stones of various shapes and
dimensions, set pretty near together, as may best be seen by the
drawings, TABLE III, IV. They are flattish, about 16 inches thick.
Originally there seems to have been 60 in number, at present there
are 22 standing, few exceeding 4 foot in height; but one in the
very north point much higher than the rest, 7 foot high, 5½ broad.
There was an entrance to it from the north-east, as is the case at
_Stonehenge_. _Ralph Sheldon_, esquire, dug in the middle of the circle
at _Rowldrich_, but found nothing.
6. Another argument of its being a Druid temple, is taken from the
barrows all around it, according to the constant practice in these
places. To the north-east is a great _tumulus_ or barrow of a long
form, which I suppose to have been of an arch-druid. Between it and our
temple is a huge stone standing upright, called the _kingstone_; the
stone is 8 foot high, 7 broad, which, together with the barrow, may be
seen in TABLES III, V. but the barrow has had much dug away from it.
’Tis now above 60 foot in length, 20 in breadth, flattish at top.
I know not whether there were more stones standing originally about
this barrow, or that this belong’d to some part of the administration
of religious offices in the temple, as a single stone.
In the same plate may be seen another barrow, but circular, below
the road to the left hand, on the side of the hill. Under it is a
spring-head running eastward to _Long Compton_. This barrow has had
stone-work at the east end of it. Upon this same heath eastward, in the
way to _Banbury_, are many barrows of different shapes, within sight of
_Rowldrich_; particularly, near a place call’d _Chapel_ on the heath,
is a large, flat, and circular _tumulus_, ditch’d about, with a small
tump in the center: this is what I call a Druid’s barrow; many such
near _Stonehenge_, some whereof I opened; a small circular barrow a
little way off it. There are on this heath too, many circular dish-like
cavities, as near _Stonehenge_, we may call them barrows inverted.
Not far from the Druid’s barrow I saw a square work, such as I call
Druids’ courts or houses. Such near _Stonehenge_ and _Abury_. ’Tis a
place 100 cubits square, double-ditch’d. The earth of the ditches is
thrown inward between the ditches, so as to a raise a terrace, going
quite round. The ditches are too inconsiderable to be made for defence.
Within are seemingly remains of stone walls. ’Tis within sight of
the temple, and has a fine prospect all around, being seated on the
highest part of the ridge. A little further is a small round barrow,
with stone-work at the east end, like that before spoken of near
_Rowldrich_; a dry stone wall or fence running quite over it, across
the heath.
Return we nearer to the temple, and we see 300 paces directly east from
it in the same field, a remarkable monument much taken notice of; ’tis
what the old _Britons_ call a _Kist vaen_ or stone chest; I mean the
_Welsh_, the descendants of those invaders from the continent, _Belgæ_,
_Gauls_ and _Cimbrians_, who drove away the aboriginal inhabitants,
that made the works we are treating of, still northward. Hence they
gave them these names from appearances; as _Rowldrich_, the _wheel or
circle of the Druids_; as _Stonehenge_ they call’d _choir gaur_, the
_giants’ dance_; as our _saxon_ ancestors call’d it _Stonehenge_, the
_hanging-stones_, or _stone-gallows_. Every succession of inhabitants
being still further remov’d from a true notion and knowledge of the
things.
Our _Kist vaen_ is represented in plates VI. and VII. One shews the
foreside, the other the backside; so that there needs but little
description of it. ’Tis compos’d of six stones, one broader for the
back-part, two and two narrower for the sides, set square to the
former; and above all, as a cover, a still larger. The opening is full
west, to the temple, or _Rowldrich_. It stands on a round _tumulus_,
and has a fine prospect south-westward down the valley, where the
head of the river _Evenlode_ runs. I persuade myself this was merely
monumental, erected over the grave of some great person there buried;
most probably the king of the country, when this temple was built. And
if there was any use of the building, it might possibly be some way
accommodated to some anniversary commemoration of the deceased, by
feasts, games, exercises, or the like, as we read in the classic poets,
who describe customs ancienter than their own times. It is akin to that
_Kist vaen_ in _Cornwall_, which I have drawn in plate XXXVII.
[Illustration:
TAB. VII.
_View of the Kistvaen of Rowldrich from the Southwest._
_Stukeley del._ _Vᵈʳ. Gucht. Sculp._]
Near the arch-druid’s barrow, by that call’d the _Kingstone_, is a
square plat, oblong, form’d on the turf. Hither, on a certain day of
the year, the young men and maidens customarily meet, and make merry
with cakes and ale. And this seems to be the remain of the very ancient
festival here celebrated in memory of the interr’d, for whom the long
barrow and temple were made. This was the sepulture of the arch-druid
founder. At _Enston_, a little way off, between _Neat Enston_ and
_Fulwell_, by the side of a bank or _tumulus_, stands a great stone,
with other smaller. ’Tis half a mile south-west of _Enston_ church. A
famous barrow at _Lineham_, by the banks of the _Evenlode_.
7. Mr. _Camden_ writes further concerning our antiquity, that “the
country people have a fond tradition, that they were once men, turn’d
into stones. The highest of all, which lies out of the ring, they
call the _king_. Five larger stones, which are at some distance from
the circle, set close together, they pretend were knights, the ring
were common soldiers.” This story the country people, for some miles
round, are very fond of, and take it very ill if any one doubts of it;
nay, they are in danger of being stoned for their unbelief. They have
likewise rhymes and sayings relating thereto. Suchlike reports are to
be met with in other like works, our Druid temples. They savour of the
most ancient and heroic times. Like _Perseus_, turning men into stones;
like _Cadmus_, producing men from serpents’ teeth; like _Deucalion_,
by throwing stones over his head, and such like, which we shall have
occasion to mention again, chap. XIV.
8. We may very reasonably affirm, that this temple was built here,
on account of this long barrow. And very often in ancient times
temples owe their foundation to sepulchres, as well as now. _Clemens
Alexandrinus_ in _Protrept._ and _Eusebius_, both allow it; and it
is largely treated of in _Schedius_ and other authors; ’tis a common
thing among these works of our Druids, and an argument that this is a
work of theirs. I shall only make two observations therefrom. 1. That
it proceeded from a strong notion in antiquity of a future state, and
that in respect of their bodies as well as souls; for the temples are
thought prophylactic, and have a power of protecting and preserving the
remains of the dead. 2. That it was the occasion of consecrating and
idolizing of dead heroes, the first species of idolatry; for they by
degrees advanc’d them into those deities of which these figures were
symbols, whereof we shall meet with instances in the progress of this
work.
Thus we pronounce _Rowldrich_ a Druid temple, from a concurrence of
all the appearances to be expected in the case; from its round form,
situation on high ground, near springs, on an extended heath, from the
stones taken from the surface of the ground, from the name, from the
measure it is built on, from the wear of the weather, from the barrows
of various kinds about it, from ancient reports, from its apparent
conformity to those patriarchal temples mentioned in scripture. This is
the demonstration to be expected in such antiquities. Nor shall I spend
time in examining the notion of its belonging to _Rollo_ the _Dane_,
and the like. Mr. _Camden_ had too much judgment to mention it. ’Tis
confuted in the annotations to _Britannia_, and in _Selden_’s notes
on _Drayton_’s _Polyolbion_, page 224. And let this suffice for what I
can say upon this curious and ancient monument: the first kind, and
most common of the Druid temples, a plain circle: of which there are
innumerable all over the _Britannick_ isles; being the original form of
all temples, ’till the Mosaick tabernacle.
CHAP. III.
Abury, _the most extraordinary work in the world, being a
serpentine temple, or of the second kind, described. Now was
the critical time of saving the memory of it. Account of the
place. Natural history. The gray weathers, call’d_ Sarsens, _a_
phœnician _word, meaning a rock. Whence the name of the city of_
Tyre. _Their weight and texture. The wear of the weather, more
apparent here, than at_ Stonehenge, _an argument of its being a
much older work._
When we contemplate the elegance of this country of _Wiltshire_,
and the great works of antiquity therein, we may be persuaded, that
the two atlantic islands, and the islands of the blessed, which
_Plato_ and other ancient writers mention, were those _in reality_
of _Britain_ and _Ireland_. They who first took possession of this
country, thought it worthy of their care, and built those noble works
therein, which have been the admiration of all ages. _Stonehenge_ we
have endeavoured to describe; and we are not more surpriz’d at the
extraordinary magnitude of this work of _Abury_, than that it should
have escap’d the observation of the curious: a place in the direct
_Bath_-road from _London_. Passing from _Marlborough_ hither, ’tis the
common topic of amusement for travellers, to observe the gray weathers
on _Marlborough_ downs, which are the same kind of stones as this
of our antiquity, lying dispers’d, on the surface of the ground, as
nature originally laid them. When we come to this village, we see the
largest of those stones in great numbers, set upright in the earth,
in circles, in parallel lines and other regular figures, and a great
part inclos’d in a vast circular ditch, of above 1000 foot diameter.
And what will further excite one’s curiosity, the _vallum_ or earth,
which is of solid chalk, dug out of that ditch, thrown on the outside;
quite contrary to the nature of castles and fortifications. The ditch
alone, which is wide and deep, is a very great labour, and the rampart
very high, and makes the appearance of a huge amphitheatre, for an
innumerable company of spectators; but cannot possibly be design’d for
offence or defence. This is twice passed by all the travellers: and
its oddness would arrest one’s attention, if the stones escap’d it.
[Illustration:
TAB. VIII.
_A Scenographic view of the Druid temple of ABVRY in north
Wiltshire, as in its original._
_W. Stukeley Delin._
_Præhonorabili Dño. Dño. Philippo Dño. Hardwick, summo magnæ
Brittanniæ Cancellario tabulam. L.M.D. W. Stukeley._]
The mighty carcase of _Stonehenge_ draws great numbers of people, out
of their way every day, as to see a sight: and it has exercis’d the
pens of the learned to account for it. But _Abury_ a much greater
work and more extensive design, by I know not what unkind fate, was
altogether overlooked, and in the utmost danger of perishing, thro’ the
humor of the country people, but of late taken up, of demolishing the
stones. Mr. _Camden_ the great light of _British_ antiquities, took
_Kennet_ avenue to be plain rocks, and that the village of _Rockley_
took its name from them. It is strange that two parallel lines of great
stones, set at equal distance and intervals, for a mile together,
should be taken for rocks in their natural site. As for the town of
_Rockley_, ’tis four miles off, has nothing to do with this antiquity,
tho’ probably had its name from the adjacent gray weathers, whence our
stones were drawn.
Dr. _Holland_, his annotator, writes thus of it. “Within one mile of
_Selbury_, (by which he means _Silbury-hill_) is _Abury_, an uplandish
village, built in an old camp, as it seemeth, but of no large compass.
It is environed with a fair trench, and hath four gates, in two of
which stand huge stones, as jambs; but so rude, that they seem rather
natural than artificial: of which sort, there are some other, in the
said village.” In the time, when this was wrote, all the circles of
these great stones, within the village of _Abury_, were nearly perfect;
two of about 150 foot diameter, two of 300 foot diameter, and the great
one of above 1000: which merited a higher notice. The largeness of the
circles hinder’d an incurious spectator from discerning their purpose.
I persuade my self the intelligent reader, by casting his eye over
the plate in the frontispiece, being the village of _Abury_, will see
enough to excite a vast idea of the place: more so, if they conceive
that the two avenues of _Kennet_ and _Bekamton_, going off at the
bottom, to the right and the left, extend themselves each, above a mile
from the town.
Dr. _Childrey_ likewise, in his _Britannia Baconica_, takes these
stones about _Kennet_ to be mere rocks. Thus if our minds are not
properly dispos’d for these inquiries, or we believe nothing great in
art, preceded the times of the _Romans_, we may run into _Munster_’s
error, in _cosmograph._ iii. 49. who believes, plain _celtic_ urns dug
up in _Poland_, to be the work of nature. _Harrington_ in his notes on
_Orlando furioso_ speaks likewise of _Abury_.
Just before I visited this place, to endeavour at preserving the memory
of it, the inhabitants were fallen into the custom of demolishing the
stones, chiefly out of covetousness of the little _area_ of ground,
each stood on. First they dug great pits in the earth, and buried them.
The expence of digging the grave, was more than 30 years purchase of
the spot they possess’d, when standing. After this, they found out
the knack of burning them; which has made most miserable havock of
this famous temple. One _Tom Robinson_ the _Herostratus_ of _Abury_,
is particularly eminent for this kind of execution, and he very much
glories in it. The method is, to dig a pit by the side of the stone,
till it falls down, then to burn many loads of straw under it. They
draw lines of water along it when heated, and then with smart strokes
of a great sledge hammer, its prodigious bulk is divided into many
lesser parts. But this _Atto de fe_ commonly costs thirty shillings in
fire and labour, sometimes twice as much. They own too ’tis excessive
hard work; for these stones are often 18 foot long, 13 broad, and 6
thick; that their weight crushes the stones in pieces, which they lay
under them to make them lie hollow for burning; and for this purpose
they raise them with timbers of 20 foot long, and more, by the help of
twenty men; but often the timbers were rent in pieces.
They have sometimes us’d of these stones for building houses; but
say, they may have them cheaper, in more manageable pieces, from the
gray weathers. One of these stones will build an ordinary house; yet
the stone being a kind of marble, or rather granite, is always moist
and dewy in winter, which proves damp and unwholsom, and rots the
furniture. The custom of thus destroying them is so late, that I could
easily trace the _obit_ of every stone; who did it, for what purpose,
and when, and by what method, what house or wall was built out of
it, and the like. Every year that I frequented this country, I found
several of them wanting; but the places very apparent whence they were
taken. So that I was well able, as then, to make a perfect ground-plot
of the whole, and all its parts. This is now twenty years ago. ’Tis to
be fear’d, that had it been deferr’d ’till this time, it would have
been impossible. And this stupendous fabric, which for some thousands
of years had brav’d the continual assaults of weather, and by the
nature of it, when left to itself, like the pyramids of _Egypt_, would
have lasted as long as the globe, must have fallen a sacrifice to the
wretched ignorance and avarice of a little village unluckily plac’d
within it; and the curiosity of the thing would have been irretrievable.
Such is the modern history of _Abury_, which I thought proper to
premise, to prepare the mind of the reader. All this was done in my
original memoirs, which I wrote on the spot, very largely. Tho’ it was
necessary for me then to do it, in order to get a thorough intelligence
of the work; yet I shall commit nothing more to the press, than what I
judge absolutely necessary to illustrate it.