MEN AND MOUNTAINS.
What, I pray you, is more pleasant, more delectable and more
acceptable unto a man than to behold the height of hills as
if they were the very Atlantes themselves of heaven?
Art thou in nature, and yet hast not known nature?
HERMANN KIRCHNER, circa A.D. 1600.
MEN AND MOUNTAINS--MOUNTAIN-HATERS--A LITERARY EXAMPLE--POETS AND
PAINTERS--THE PLACE OF ART--ALPINE SCENERY AND ART--THE VARIETY OF THE
ALPS--THE SNOW WORLD--MONS. LOPPÉ'S PICTURES--CONCLUSION.
Switzerland, from a distance practically beyond that of the Caucasus
at the present day, has in the last thirty years been brought within a
few hours of our homes. Increased facilities of travel and of residence
in Alpine regions, acting in unison with many less obvious but equally
real influences, have extended human sympathy to Nature in her wildest
forms and created a new sentiment, the Love of the Alps.
The indifference of men to mountains in past ages has perhaps been
exaggerated. The prevalence throughout the world of mountain-worship
in different forms seems to show that the great peaks and the eternal
snows have before now had power to stir men's minds and to mix with
their lives. But the image which has been adored as a god is for a
time cast aside, and it is only to distant generations that it becomes
valuable for its intrinsic beauty of design and workmanship. In the
case of the great ranges the period of neglect had been a long one. In
the Europe of the Middle Ages all hilly regions became surrounded by
associations of fear and danger. The plan of the universe was indeed
held to have been originally divine; but the devil had somehow become
clerk of the works, and managed to put in a good deal not in the
original specification. Earthquakes, tempests, venomous reptiles and
mountains were all accepted as productions of the evil principle.
From this disfavour the mountains have been during the last century
slowly emerging. Better acquaintance has led to the discovery of all
the beauties and benefits the Alps offer to those who seek them in
a proper mood. We have learnt thoroughly to appreciate the variety
imparted to all nature by the accidents of hill scenery, to know and
love the thousand forms of peaks, the changing charm of lakes and
forests, the rush of the grey Swiss torrent under the upright pines,
and the blue repose of the Italian stream under the beech shadows.
Moreover, Alpine climbing has revealed the wonders of the kingdom of
frost and snow. The imprisoned colours of glacier ice, the ruin of its
fantastic towers and tottering minarets, the splendour of its fretted
and icicle-hung caves are no longer familiar only to Arctic travellers.
The overpowering height of some peak soaring majestically heavenwards
can never have been felt as it is by those who understand through
experience the dimensions and meaning of each rock and patch of snow on
its ridges.
The flow of human sympathy towards the mountains has, however, been too
recent not to have left many traces of the deep ebb of antipathy which
had preceded it. 'Survivals' of the old and narrower tone of thought of
a hundred years ago are constantly to be met with in English society.
They even penetrate occasionally to the tables-d'hôte of Swiss inns,
where they may be recognised by the air of calm superiority generally
assumed by the unappreciative, whether in the presence of music, a
picture, or a peak.
These representatives of mediæval sentiment are often mediævalists
also in their practice. Where their opinions are based on anything
besides hereditary prejudice it is very often found if you examine them
tenderly that their experience has been coloured, or more correctly
speaking obscured, by bodily torture. They have climbed with unboiled
peas in their shoes, and without the excuse of their forefathers. For
they have deadened their natural senses by bodily discomfort without
any hope of prospective gain for their souls. They have literally
repeated the old penance by setting out to walk with new boots and
cotton socks and a ponderous knapsack. They have rushed over passes and
up peaks in bad weather; or overtaxed their powers in a first tour: or
they have perhaps never persevered long enough to be able to tread with
ease a mountain-path, where the novice dares not lift his eyes from the
ground, while his companion, some days or weeks more experienced, can
enjoy at once the scenery and motion. No wonder that what is a delight
to the wise is to them foolishness, and that they speedily renounce the
mountains.
Such mountain-haters still find champions both in English and foreign
modern literature. I shall not be tempted to take the late Canon
Kingsley as an example, for his amusing attack on mountains[72] is in
truth only a plea for flats, and in that light I heartily sympathise
with it. Moreover Mr. Kingsley loved all nature so well that his
cursing is of the most superficial and Balaamitic character, and the
argument he puts in the mouth of his 'peevish friend' would invite
mercy by its very feebleness.
A distinguished French critic will furnish us with a far more genuine
example of the old school. M. Taine, travelling in the Pyrenees to
write a book, experiences a difficulty the reverse of Mr. Kingsley's.
Feeling that he ought, as a man of his time, to bless, he yet cannot
refrain from cursing altogether. The antique modes of expression flow
naturally from his pen; he is constantly reminding us of the once
favourite theological view that the mountains are a disease of nature.
His language at times resembles that of a medical student fresh from
the hospitals and the dissecting-room. He sums up his impressions of
the Pyrenees in the reflection that they are 'monstrous protuberances.'
Here is a picture from Luchon! 'The slopes hang one over the other
notched, dislocated, bleeding; the sharp ridges and fractures are
yellow with miserable mosses, vegetable ulcers which defile the
nakedness of the rocks with their leprous spots.'[73] This loathsome
simile for mountain mosses pleases M. Taine so much that he never
mentions them without repeating it. Take now a more general sketch.
'How grotesque are these jagged heads, these bodies bruised and
heaped together, these distorted shoulders! What unknown monsters,
what a deformed and gloomy race, outside humanity! Par quel horrible
accouchement la terre les a-t-elle soulevés hors de ses entrailles?' It
would be easy to fill a page or two with such 'elegant extracts.'
Mountaineers may sometimes feel disposed to resent such unworthy
treatment of mountain beauty. But the true lover of the Alps is not
necessarily disposed to be arrogant in his faith or to wish all the
world of the same mind. While he knows that to him the mountains are
sympathetic, he admits that they have also an unsympathetic side which
is the first to present itself to many. He recognises in the hill
country a type of nature, free, vigorous and healthy, and is glad that
others should share the enjoyment of it. But as the affection of a
sailor for the sea does not blunt him to the pleasures of dry land,
so his feeling for the Alps does not make him less susceptible to
milder scenes. He does not assert that mountains are the most beautiful
objects in creation, but only that they are beautiful. He does not
claim for them undivided worship, but a share of admiration.
Little disposed however as we may generally be to proselytise, we must
feel that there is one class of our fellow-countrymen amongst whom we
like to make converts. We too often find blind to mountain beauty those
who, as we think, ought to be its priests and interpreters. For the
painter, like the poet, can feel 'harmonies of the mountains and the
skies' invisible to the general eye; it is his gift by a higher or more
developed sense to recognise and reveal to others the beauties of the
visible world. By his happy power of fixing on canvas the vision of a
moment, he extends the appreciation of nature of all who intelligently
look at his work. Paul Potter and Hobbema have taught us the charm
which lurks in the flat and at first sight monotonous landscapes of
Holland. Looking through their eyes we see the beauty of the moist
sun-suffused atmosphere, of the sudden alternations of shadow and gleam
which chequer and gild the abundant verdure and peaceful homesteads.
Corot and Daubigny lead us better to appreciate the unfamiliar spirit
of French river-sides in the dewy morning hours or the red gloaming, a
beauty indistinct in form yet vivid in impression as that of a dream.
When we exclaim as we rush past in the steamer or the express, 'What a
Cuyp!' or 'How like Corot!' we pay a just tribute to the artist through
whose works the essential features of the scene before us have been
made so readily recognisable.
In the same way those who have already studied the beautiful Titian
(No. 635) in our National Gallery, or the landscape lately exhibited
at Burlington House, will find a deeper and subtler pleasure in their
first view of the great Belluno valley. But this unfortunately is
a rare example. As a rule the Alpine traveller must depend entirely
on his own powers of observation and selection, or must sharpen his
appreciative faculty by the aid of poets.
For at least the word-painters of our generation have not been false to
their mission of expressing and carrying on the best feelings of their
age. The works of our living poets abound with sketches of mountain
scenery the precision of which may satisfy even a literal-minded
enthusiast. In the exquisite Alpine idyll in the 'Princess' we have
brought before us one after another the scenes of the Bernese Oberland;
Grindelwald with its firths of ice, Lauterbrunnen with its monstrous
ledges and 'thousand wreaths of dangling water-smoke,' or the gentler
beauties of the vale of Frutigen and the Lake of Brienz. Beside this
finished picture might be placed a gallery of sketches familiar to
every reader of contemporary poetry. Mr. Browning draws with sharp,
firm strokes the paths over the foothills of Lombardy, where the high
arched bridge leaps the blue brook, and at each sudden turn the faded
frescoes of a chapel gleam from between the chestnut-trees over whose
tops 'the silver spearheads charge.' Mr. Matthew Arnold prefers the
more solemn mood of the inner Alps, where above the hillside, 'thin
sprinkled with snow,' 'the pines slope, the cloudstrips hung soft in
their heads.'
Across the Atlantic, among the other great English-speaking people,
the poets have not any more than our own treated mountains as 'outside
humanity.' Emerson has dwelt more fully than any of his forerunners
on the appeal they make to our intellectual faculty; Joaquin Miller
reflects the fascination exerted over the senses by the great
Californian ranges.
Art, like poetry, ought surely to be the expression of the strongest
and clearest feelings of its day, and thus the interpreter and
instructor of weaker or more confused minds. The types of beauty are
eternal, but painters are human beings, and a man can successfully
paint or describe only what he has seen and felt for himself. The most
vivid impressions of each age and individual are necessarily derived
from the forms of life around them, and these are therefore the best
suited to inspire their art-faculty. The sculptors of the Parthenon
did not carve Egyptian dances but Attic festivals; the great Italian
masters painted, whether as Virgin, God, or Saint, their own countrymen
or women in the scenery of their own homes. In the dulness of our outer
lives, the deadness of our souls to natural enjoyments, lies assuredly
one of the chief causes of the artistic barrenness of our century. Can
we then afford to throw away lightly, as material for art, any form of
nature which seems really capable of stirring our minds into some sort
of enthusiasm?
Neglect of to us familiar scenes and contemporary subjects is,
however, often excused on the ground that these things were unknown
to the painters of the Renaissance. In point of fact this amounts to
a protestation of our incapacity or unwillingness to discover beauty
where it has not been already pointed out, to a confession that amongst
us art is dead. For to be able to choose out, harmonise, and idealise
the elements of beauty in the world as it goes on around us is the
essential quality of living art. It is one, it is true, which is too
often missed on the walls of Burlington House.
Many of the most cultivated living artists show their veneration for
the old masters by endeavouring to reproduce the results they arrived
at, rather than by studying nature at first-hand and in their spirit.
Consequently in one half of modern painting we see, in the place of
free and spontaneous accomplishment, an abundance of tentative and
over-conscious reproduction. And unfortunately this half finds its
best justification in the character of the other. To put it simply, our
school may--of course with some illustrious exceptions--be divided into
those who think too much and feel too little, and those who neither
think nor feel at all.
Some of our friends are sitting all the day long watching seriously in
dim galleries if perchance they may yet catch the mantle fallen from
the prophets of old. There are others who, going straight to daily life
and nature, are often too idle or dull-eyed to penetrate beneath the
surface. In place of selecting and combining for us elements of beauty,
they attempt to tickle our senses with vulgar tricks of imitation. For
one 'Chill October' we have had twenty river scenes crowded with smart
people in boats; for one sketch of Leighton, Walker, or Mason half a
hundred showy trivialities.
From both schools, the Retrospective and the Commonplace, any
invitation to the Alps will receive the same answer. The mountains,
begins one voice, are harsh, violent, and unmanageable in outline,
crude and monotonous in colour, and devoid of atmosphere. The great
masters of the Renaissance never painted the Alps, continues the other,
with, remembering Titian, doubtful accuracy. In short, we are given to
understand, as politely as may be, that the hill-country may be good
for those dull souls which, incapable naturally of appreciating more
delicate or subtle charms, require to be strongly stirred; but that to
the artist's eye the Alps are the chromolithography of nature--that, in
fact, a taste for mountain scenery is bad taste.
Yet the majesty and poetry of the great ranges are not incapable of
representation. One mountain sketch of Turner is enough to prove this.
But if such an example is thought too exceptional let us take another.
I have before me pictures in brown, twelve inches by ten, showing above
the mossy roofs of a Tyrolese homestead and the broad sunny downs
of Botzen the tusked and horned ramparts which guard King Laurin's
rose-garden; the Orteler, its vast precipices of crowning ice-pyramid
half seen through belts of cloud; the soaring curve of the Wetterhorn
as it sweeps up like an aspiring thought from the calm level life
of the pasturages at its feet; the Matterhorn, an Alpine Prometheus
chained down on its icy pedestal, yet challenging the skies with
dauntless front. Is mind powerless where mere reflection can succeed
not once but repeatedly? Can it be impossible to put on canvas subjects
which readily adapt themselves to modest-sized photographs? So long as
form as well as colour is a source of pleasure, the Alps will offer a
store of the most valuable material for art.
Nevertheless, a certain amount of truth underlies all the current
criticisms on Alpine scenery. In 'the blue unclouded weather' which
sometimes, to the joy of mountaineers and sightseers who reckon what
they see by quantity rather than quality, extends through a Swiss
August, the air is deficient in tone and gradation. In the central
Cantons the prevailing colours are two tints of green. The vivid hue
of pasturages and broad-leaved trees is belted by the heavier shade of
pine-woods, and both are capped by a dazzling snow-crown, producing
an effect to a painter's eye crude and unmanageable. The Alps have,
in common with most great natures, rough and rugged places, such as
are not found in more everyday lives or landscapes. Their outlines are
often wanting in grace, and of a character which does not readily fall
into a harmonious composition.
But to allow all this is only to show that here as elsewhere there is
need for selection before imitation. Those who, ignoring the essential
qualities of the mountains, insist only on their blemishes remind me of
the foreigner who sees in English landscapes nothing but a monotony of
heavy green earth overshadowed by a sunless sky. Their disparagement
is like most erroneous criticism, the honest expression of the little
knowledge described in the proverb.
Familiarity with what he represents is essential to the painter's
success. Men paint best as a rule the scenery of their own homes.
Perugino gives us Umbrian hills and the lake of Thrasimene; Cima and
Titian Venetian landscapes and colours; Turner loves most English
seas and mists. It is useless, except for a rare genius, to go once
to Switzerland and paint one or two pictures, for in the mountains
knowledge is especially needed. The first view of the Alps is in most
cases a disappointment. Our expectations have been unconsciously based
on the great mounds of cumulus cloud which roll up against lowland
skies. We expect something comparable to them, and we find only a thin
white line which the smallest cloud-belt altogether effaces. First
impressions require to be corrected by patient study of detail before
any adequate comprehension can be formed of the true scale. The stories
of our countryman who proposed to spend a quiet day in strolling along
the crest of the chain from the St. Theodule to Monte Rosa, of the New
Yorker who thought he saw one of the mules of a party descending the
Matterhorn, have become proverbs. I suppose no season passes without
the Grands Mulets being mistaken for a company of mountaineers by
some new arrivals at Chamonix. And too often Alpine pictures betray
a similar confusion of mind in their painters. I have seen the
Schreckhorn through utter ignorance of rock-drawing converted into a
slender pyramid which might have stood comfortably beside the Mammoth
Tree under the roof of the Crystal Palace. Not long ago there was a
picture in the Academy of the Lake of Lucerne, where the mountain-tops
looked scarcely so high above the water as the frame was above the
ground. The hangers had done their best, but nothing could give those
mountains height.
Moreover it is well to know something of the substance as well as
the size of your subject. Some painters, it is true, have had a
conventional mode of expressing all foliage; but their example is not
one to be imitated. The different forms and texture of granite and
limestone must be carefully attended to. Again, before it is possible
properly to paint the golden lights and pearl-grey shadows on the face
of the Jungfrau some knowledge must be gained of the meaning of the
lines and furrows which seam the upper snows.
A sense for colour is doubtless a born gift. Nevertheless it will take
many days of watching before even the keenest apprehension seizes upon
all the subtleties of distance and light and shade in the mountains. A
dark green pine, a brown châlet, and a white peak may do very well in a
German chromolithograph. But the artist and the mountain-lover ask for
something better than the clever landscapes of Bierstadt and the Munich
school, faithful it may be, but faithful in a dry and narrow manner,
and giving us every detail without the spirit of the scene. The forms
are there exactly enough, but local colour and sentiment are wanting.
We have a catalogue instead of a poem. One of Turner's noble pictures
of the gorge of Göschenen is worth a gallery of such compositions.
Those who are seeking to understand mountains will do well not to
confine themselves to the round of the tourist. Convenience and health,
not love of beauty, have been the chief influences in determining the
orbits of our fellow-countrymen. Nothing compels the painter to linger
on the bleak uplands round the sources of the Inn, where a shallow
uniform trench does duty for the valley which has never yet been dug
out, and where the minor and most conspicuous peaks have a mean and
ruinous aspect.[74]
If he wishes to paint the central snowy range as portions of the
landscape rather than to study them for themselves, he should begin
with the further side of the Alps. There, even in the clear summer
weather, when the Swiss crags seem most hard and near, and the
pine-trees crude and stiff, all the hollows of the hills are filled
with waves of iridescent air, as if a rainbow had been diffused through
the sky. The distances, purple and blue, float before the eye with a
soft outline like that of the young horns of a stag. Even the snows
are never a cold white; after the red flush of dawn has left them they
pass through gradations of golden brightness until, when the sun is
gone, they sink into a soft spectral grey. And in the foreground woods
of chestnuts and beeches spread their broad branches over wayside
chapels bright with colour, and mossy banks the home of delicate ferns
and purple-hearted cyclamens. To those who know them the names of Val
Rendena, Val Sesia, Val Anzasca, and Val Maggia call up visions of the
sweetest beauty. But the whole Italian slope is free at all times from
the alleged defects of Swiss scenery. Further east lies the Trentino,
where the mountains stand apart and the valleys spread out to an ampler
width, where nature is rich and open-handed, and the landscapes unite
Alpine nobility of form to the sunny spaciousness and deep colour of
Italy. And close at hand, beyond the Adige, is the country of Titian,
where the new school may find a precedent and an example in the great
painter of Cadore.
But at length when the crowd has departed let the painter in late
September or October pass back to the Swiss Alps. However much he
may dislike positive colours, he will find subjects to his taste,
harmonies in blue and grey, or studies in grey alone, when the thin
autumn vapours swim up the valley and entangle themselves amongst the
pine-tops, or when the whole heaven is veiled, and
White against the cold white sky
Shine out the crowning snows.
Or, if he delights in the subtle play and contrast of colour, he may
study the lights and shadows and reflections of the lakes, as the wind
and clouds sweep over them, the hue of the hillsides when the purple
darkness of the pines becomes a grateful contrast to the rich warm
tints of the lower woods, and the rhododendron leaves on the high alps
flush with a red brighter than their May blossoms. From some lonely
height he may watch the shiftings and gatherings of the mist as it
spreads in a 'fleecelike floor' beneath his feet, or the storm-wreaths
as they surge in tall columns to the heaven, and break open to reveal
a mountain shrine glowing in the rich lights of evening or the pale
splendour of a summer moon. He must be a dull man if he does not
acknowledge that the mountains have a language worth interpreting, and
that to those who can listen, they speak, as Lord Lytton tells us in
his pretty fable,
---- With signs all day.
Down drawing o'er their shoulders fair,
This way and that soft veils of air,
And colours never twice the same
Woven of wind, and dew, and flame.
We do not ask or expect many artists to devote themselves to the new
country which has been discovered by the Alpine Club above the belt of
black and white barrenness which was once thought the typical scenery
of the Upper Alps. That there is much that is beautiful, however,
in this Wonderland will be readily admitted even by those who doubt
whether its beauties are reproducible by art.
The painter who ventures into the snow-world will find, I think, that
the subjects it offers divide themselves roughly into three classes:
portraits of high peaks; studies of mountain views, that is, of earth
and sky-colours blended in the vast distances visible from a lofty
stand-point; and studies of snow and ice--of the forms and colours
of the snow-field and the glacier. In the first two no conspicuous
success has yet been obtained. The great mountains still await their
'vates sacer.'[75] It is in the last-mentioned, at first sight the
least inviting and most perplexing of the branches of Alpine art, that
the greatest efforts have been made and with the most result. Until M.
Loppé painted, it was only the mountaineer who knew the beauty of the
glacier. Its broken cataracts and wave-filled seas were to the stranger
formless, colourless masses. The Genevese painter, by dint of patient
study and laborious, if pleasurable, exertion, has revealed its secrets
to the world, and more than justified the enthusiasm of the Alpine
Club.
M. Loppé's pictures might easily be arranged so as to form a kind of
'glacier's progress.' We first find the snows reposing tranquilly in
their high rock-cradle and reflecting on their pure surface the tones
of the sky from which they have fallen. Then we have the struggle and
confusion which attend the encounter of the young glacier with the
first obstacles. An irresistible impulse urges the still half-formed
ice over the edge, and it is transformed in a moment into a maze of
towers and blue abysses, of walls of marble-like snow seamed with the
soft veins which mark each year's fall, of crystal-roofed and fretted
vaults hung with pendant icicles. M. Loppé paints with wonderful skill
not only the forms of the 'séracs,' but the shades and hues given by
the imprisoned light and reflections to the frozen mass, combining the
whole into a harmony of soft pale colour.
Again we meet the glacier, as it is best known to the world, settled
down into middle life, but still seamed by the scars of a stormy youth,
earthier, more stained and travel-worn than in its first combat. Here
the mottled crust, the green light of the smaller crevices, and the
wavelike undulations of the surface are represented with admirable
fidelity; but we feel the air is less poetic, and a stray tourist
does not offend us as out of place. And now we are present at the last
struggle where, under a pall of cloud through which the parent peaks
shine down a far-off farewell, the glacier makes its fatal plunge into
the valley, for it a valley of death, and we see its end amid the earth
and rock-heaps of the terminal moraine. But from under the muddy ruin
springs out of a 'dusky door' a new and fuller life, and the mountain
stream dashes off on its happy course through the new world of the
fields and orchards.
So faithful are these pictures that Professor Tyndall would find in
them fit illustrations for a popular discourse. So perfect is sometimes
the illusion that we should almost fear a modern version of Zeuxis and
the birds, and expect to hear the lecturer calling on his assistant to
drive stakes into the canvas.
When M. Loppé turns to summit views we feel that his success is less
complete. He has led the way to the
High mountain platforms
Where morn first appears;
Where the white mists for ever
Are spread and upfurl'd,
and has dared to be the first to depict the mysterious light of the
far-off sunrise playing on the highest snows of Mont Blanc, the snowy
cantonments of the Alps separated by grey cloud-streams, the gradations
from the purple of the zenith to the crocus of the horizon in the vault
of heaven seen from 15,000 feet above the sea-level; or the red glow
of sunset, when the lowlands are already dark in shadow, and the upper
world has a moment of hot splendour before it, too, is overwhelmed by
the night.
The deep hues of the upper air, the torn edges of the clouds as
they are caught by the morning breeze, bear witness to study on the
spot. But we demand more delicacy of aerial effect, greater depth of
distance, more precision in the handling of the nearer rock-peaks.
The painter clearly spends all his love on snow, and does not care so
much for the forms of crags. We miss, too, that combined breadth and
subtlety of interpretation which belong only to the very highest genius
and which no study or perseverance can impart.
But fault-finding is ungrateful where so much has been dared and
accomplished. M. Loppé's pictures are doubtless open to criticism in
many respects, and they could hardly be otherwise. But the amount of
success he has achieved in a region where no one else had ever dared to
venture is surely sufficient to make his example worth more than many
precepts. At any rate the moment at which a painter has shown London
for the first time the capabilities for artistic treatment of the most
unpromising of mountain-subjects seems a fitting one for urging the
general claims of the Alps.
Let it not be said that Englishmen are dead to the finer influences
of the eternal hills to which they so much resort. Let our painters
avoid hasty conclusions founded on imperfect knowledge, and attempt
the mountains with the same energy and perseverance which have made
them subject to our athletic youth. Let them be ready to climb enough
to understand the scale and nature of the objects they have to paint,
and content, like young mountaineers, to spend season after season
in slow training and only partial success. Thus, and thus only, can
they hope to conquer the beauties of the mountain-world. But the
conquest will repay its cost. The existence of a school of intelligent
Alpine landscape-painters would contribute in no small degree to the
maintenance of Art in her true position, not as 'the empty singer of
a bygone day,' but the visible sign and interpreter of the feeling for
beauty of the world of our own days. It also could not fail to result
in the increased and more intelligent appreciation of some of the
highest forms of scenery, and the consequent repression of the tendency
to
Glance and nod and bustle by,
which wastes so many of the hours when our souls should be most
receptive.
FOOTNOTES:
[72] Prose Idylls.
[73] Contrast this comparison with Mr. Browning's, quoted p.
28.
[74] A distinction must be made between the scenery of
the Engadine itself, and of the Bernina. In the side-glens
behind Pontresina, the lover of peak-form and the student
of snow and ice will find abundant and singularly accessible
subjects.
[75] I do not forget the somewhat spasmodic efforts in Alpine
painting which have been made in late years by one or two of
our landscape-painters. But so far as I know, despite one
or two fairly successful beginnings, none of them (except
an amateur, Sir Robert Collier) have persevered in the
endeavour to represent mountains. Of all men, Mr. Edward
Whymper has effected most in this field. His wood engravings
show how much may be done even on a very small scale and
without colour. A volume of portraits of the great peaks by
his hand, an English edition of Herr Studer's, _The Highest
Summits of Switzerland, and the Story of their Ascent_,
would be welcomed both by lovers of the arts and of the
Alps. Mr. Elijah Walton, with much feeling for colour, and
occasionally for mountain form, seems to lack the force and
perseverance necessary for the production of complete work.
He seldom reaches the standard of rock-drawing held up in
his own book, _Peaks in Pen and Pencil_. His sketches are too
often scamped, and it is impossible to repress impatience of
their mannerism, and of the perpetual blot of mist which he
is ever ready to throw in. Nor can I recognise as worthy of
such frequent reproduction the surely somewhat ignoble, and
in nature rare, form of hillside found where, through the
friable character of the rock, isolated, pine-tufted blocks
are left standing amidst deep trenches. But he can, when he
pleases, paint truly and beautifully a dolomite pinnacle,
a wall of ice, or a bank of pines. I still hope he may be
able to forget some of his favourite effects, and to give
us a series of simple transcripts of fresh impressions from
nature, embodied in drawings studied throughout with equal
care.
Other water-colour painters have, during the last few
seasons, tried their hands on the snowy Alps. We owe
gratitude to everyone who aids to raise mountain-drawing from
the bathos of such works as those of Collingwood Smith. But
I could wish this young school showed less facility and more
signs of a progress which is only to be won by thoughtful
observation, patience, and refinement. At present their
works are seen more often in the rooms of climbers than of
connoisseurs.
APPENDICES.
_APPENDIX A._
NOTES FOR TRAVELLERS.
The following notes have been framed for use with the 'Alpine
Guide,' and make no pretence to be complete in themselves. Besides
the necessary references to Mr. Ball's book, they consist of such
corrections and additions as I should have supplied had a new edition
been in immediate prospect. The edition referred to is that in 10 small
sections (2_s._ 6_d._ each), Longmans & Co., 1873. The sections which
include the country here dealt with are three--'The St. Gothard and
Italian Lakes,' 'East Switzerland,' and 'South Tyrol and the Venetian
Alps.'
The best maps for use in the country here described are, for ordinary
travellers, Mayr's 'Karte der Alpen' (Ostalpen, Sheets 1 and 3)
corrected by Berghaus (Perthes. Gotha. 1871), and the Alpine Club Map
of the Central Alps, Sheet IV.
Mountaineers will also require the Swiss (Sheet XX.) and
Lombardo-Venetian (Sheets B. 3, 4; C. 3, 4; D. 3, 4) Government Maps.
The new survey of Tyrol by the Austrian engineers has been completed,
and its result will shortly be given to the public. The existing maps
of S. Tyrol and the Trentino are most inaccurate.
CHAPTERS I., II.
_VAL MAGGIA--VAL VERZASCA--VAL CANOBBINA._
APPROACHES AND CARRIAGE-ROADS.
From central Switzerland by the St. Gothard road or Gries (mule-pass);
from the west by the Simplon road and Val Formazza; from the south by
Lago Maggiore.
There is an omnibus twice daily up Val Maggia between Locarno and
Bignasco, and once daily between Bignasco and Fusio, to which the
carriage-road now extends. The carriage-road in Val Verzasca extends to
Sonogno, but there is no public conveyance beyond Lavertezzo.
The carriage-road up Val Onsernone is open as far as Comologno.
The road from Locarno to Domo d'Ossola is not, as stated in the 'Alpine
Guide,' practicable throughout for cars. There is a break of some
length near the frontier.
The road from Canobbio through Val Canobbina to Val Vigezzo was still
incomplete in 1874.
INNS.
_Val Maggia._
_Cevio._ An Inn well spoken of by German travellers.
_Bignasco._ The house kept by Da Ponte, mentioned in the 'Alpine Guide'
still 'very fair' (1874). The 'Posta' supplies clean beds and good
country cooking, and is in a charming situation (1874).
_Fusio._ Inn and pension frequented by Italians, and said by F.
Devouassoud to promise well externally (1874).
_Val Verzasca._
_Lavertezzo._ A poor-looking Inn. There is a roadside tavern, where
bread and wine may be obtained, below the bridge over the stream of Val
d'Osola. At Sonogno there is no inn (1874).
_Val Vigezzo._
_Santa Maria Maggiore._ A fair country Inn (1874).
PEAKS AND PASSES.
The ascent of the lesser peaks of the Ticinese valleys scarcely repays
the labour. The Basodine and Piz Campo Tencca are mentioned among the
passes. No riding animals are to be found in Val Maggia: they must be
brought from Faido or Premia. The master of the Tosa Falls inn is a
good guide to the Basodine, and peasants are doubtless to be found in
Val Bavona who would undertake to lead a traveller to the top.
_Val Formazza_ to _Val Maggia_.
Premia or Andermatten to Cevio by Val Rovana, horsepath. See 'Alpine
Guide,' vol. ii. p. 311.[76]
Andermatten to Bignasco by the Forcolaccia and Val Bavona, 6½ hrs.;
foot.
Andermatten to San Carlo in Val Bavona by Passo d'Antabbia; foot;
probably fine.
Tosa Falls to San Carlo and Bignasco; by Passo del Basodine; foot; rope
necessary. See p. 15-16:
or Bocchetta di Val Maggia; foot; either pass about 10 hrs.
The Basodine, 10,748 feet, can be climbed in ½ hr. from the former
pass. See p. 15.
For the passes from Val Bavona to Airolo, and to Val Peccia. See
'Alpine Guide,' pp. 311, 313.
_Val Maggia_ to _Val Leventina_.
Airolo to Fusio by Val Lavizzara, see 'Alpine Guide,' p. 311. There is
a more direct foot-pass between the two there mentioned, the descent
from which on the E. side is by a goat-track down a steep face of
rocks.
Faido to Fusio. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 311.
Faido to Broglio and Bignasco by Passo di Campo Tencca. Through the gap
between the N. (highest 10,099 ft.) and central peak of Piz C. Tencca;
see p. 20-25; foot, 10 hrs. It is not necessary to go round by Prato to
enter Val Lavizzara, but the short cut to Broglio is rather difficult
to hit off in descending. See p. 20.
_Val Maggia_ to _Val Verzasca_.
Broglio to Sonogno; Passo di Redorta, through Val di Prato and Val
Partusio, foot, 6 hours. See p. 29.
Bignasco to Brione; Passo d'Osola,[77] through Val Coccho (foot),
probably the most interesting path between the two valleys.
I can add no information to that contained in the 'Alpine Guide' as to
the other passes from Val Maggia to Val Verzasca, or as to the passes
from Val Verzasca to Val Leventina.
ROUTES.
Carriage travellers can only drive from Domo d'Ossola to Canobbio (with
the break mentioned above), and up and down Val Maggia, Val Verzasca,
and Val Onsernone.
_For riders and moderate walkers_ perhaps the best route is
From Faido to Fusio by Campolungo Pass, thence to Bignasco; spend
a day in Val Bavona, and cross by Val Rovana to Val Formazza or Val
Onsernone.
_For mountaineers--_
Ascend the Basodine from the Tosa Falls, descending through Val Bavona
to Bignasco; thence cross Piz Campo Tencca to Faido; drive down
to Locarno and up Val Maggia (or by Val Onsernone and Val Rovana)
to Bignasco; cross the Passo d'Osola, returning to Locarno by Val
Verzasca.
There are many ways through the hills between Locarno and Domo
d'Ossola, but none probably to be preferred to the route through Val
Canobbina.
CHAPTERS III., IV.
_THE PEAKS AND PASSES OF VAL MASINO._
APPROACHES AND CARRIAGE-ROADS.
The villages of Val Bregaglia are half-a-day's drive from Pontresina
or St. Moritz, or, coming the opposite way, two or three hours from
Chiavenna. The baths of Masino are a short day's drive from Colico, or
about five hours from Sondrio. The road to the Baths is the only one
inside the district practicable for carriages.
INNS.
_Bregaglia._ See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 386.
_Maloya._ Much improved; good accommodation, but a bear for a landlord
(1873).
_Val Masino._
_I Bagni._ Clean beds, untidy rooms, excellent food, and much civility,
with rather high prices to passing travellers (1873).
_Val Malenco._
_Chiesa._ Two fair country Inns, improving (1873).
_Chiareggio._ Very rough quarters, and little food to be depended on
(1873).
_Val Codera._
_Codera._ Two very primitive Inns kept by tidy and civil people
(Tschudi's 'Schweizerführer').
PASSES OF VAL MASINO.
No good glacier guides are to be found in Val Masino or Val Bregaglia.
At Chiesa in Val Malenco there are several men who have made glacier
excursions, and two or three (Flematti of Spriana, Joli of Torre) who
have recently been up the Disgrazia.
_I Bagni_ to _Val Codera_.
There are three passes, all only practicable on foot: I. Over Alp
Ligoncio to a pass at the foot of Monte Lis d'Arnasca and through Val
del Pussato--the easiest. II. Through Val Porcellizza to Alp d'Averta.
III. A rough way, wrongly marked on maps, between the two last. All
lead through gaps in an almost perpendicular granite wall. The scenery
of the upper portion of Val Codera is wildly beautiful (Tschudi's
'Schweizerführer').
_Fuorcla di Rocchette._
I Bagni to Castasegna. Two steep and rough foot-passes; crossing
between them one of the heads of Val Codera.
_Passo di Bondo._
I Bagni to Promontogno. A difficult glacier pass, involving the descent
of an ice-wall, only to be attempted by practised climbers. The pass
we crossed lies at the head of the most easterly of the glaciers seen
from Alp Mazza in Porcellizza. In descending the Bondasca glacier it is
generally best to keep to the right. The spot at which to leave the ice
for the pasturages is easily recognised. See p. 73.
_Passo di Ferro._
Val di Mello to Promontogno. A fine glacier pass, difficulty varying
according to the state of the crevasses. In ascending from Val di Mello
keep the E. side of the Ferro Glacier. See p. 49.
_Passo di Zocca._ (Forcella di S. Martino of Swiss map.)
Val di Mello to Vico Soprano, a glacier pass well known to people of
the country. No difficulty with a rope. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 407.
_Passo di Monte Sissone._
Val di Mello to Maloya. See p. 61. A fine and long, but not at all
difficult, glacier pass. Monte Sissone is easily recognisable on the
S. side. In descending to the Forno Glacier bear along the N.E. ridge
until it seems easy to get down. The right-hand side of the glacier is
the best.
There are two passes known to the shepherds, connecting respectively
the lower portion of the Forno Glacier with the châlets at the foot
of the Albigna Glacier, and these with the highest pasturage in Val
Bondasca. An active walker starting from the Maloya Inn would have
little difficulty in crossing both in the same day. Owing to the much
lower level of the starting-point, the excursion, taken the other way,
would be too fatiguing to be recommended.
_Passo di Mello._
Val di Mello to Chiareggio. Glacier pass, liable to be difficult on the
E. side if the rocks are icy or the glacier much crevassed. The gap is
that nearest the Pico della Speranza. See p. 68.
_Passo della Speranza_ and _Passo della Preda Rossa_.
Val di Mello to Sasso Bisolo Glacier;
Sasso Bisolo Glacier to Val di Torre;
Form together a high-level route from the Baths to Sondrio, passing
under the Disgrazia.
From Val di Mello make for the pass at the W. foot of the Pico della
Speranza; the 2nd pass is conspicuous to anyone on the Sasso Bisolo
Glacier. See p. 87.
These are not the passes alluded to by Mr. Ball ('Alpine Guide,' p.
408). There is a lower pass from Val Torreggio to the Sasso Bisolo
châlets. The range S.W. of the Disgrazia is very badly laid down in all
maps except the A. C. map of Switzerland.
PEAKS.
_Monte della Disgrazia_, 12,057 ft. See p. 84, and 'Alpine Guide,' p.
408.
In ordinary circumstances, about 5 hrs. from the highest Sasso Bisolo
châlets, or 9 hrs. from the Baths. Has also been ascended by Italians
by the Passo della Preda Rossa starting from the Alpe Rali on the Val
Malenco side.
_Monte Sissone_, 10,800 ft. (?) See Sissone Pass.
_Cima di Rosso_, 11,024 ft.
From the Maloya, an easy snow-peak, ascent 5 hrs., descent 2¼ hrs.
_Cima del Largo_, 11,162 ft.
From the Maloya; a steep ice-wall near the top. Requires a good guide.
Ascent 6 hrs.; descent 4½ hrs. This peak can undoubtedly be reached
from the head of the Albigna Glacier. See p. 77.
_Punta Trubinesca_, 11,106 ft.
From I Bagni; easy for good walkers. Rope and ice-axe necessary. Ascend
glacier W. of the peak and gully at its head to the gap between the P.
T. and the Cima di Tschingel. Thence by the ridge. See p. 81.
_Cima di Tschingel_, 10,853 ft.
From I Bagni, lower and more difficult than the last. Ascent 6 hrs.;
descent 4 hrs.
_Monte Lis d'Arnasca_, 10,500 ft. (?)} No information; quite unknown to
_Monte Spluga_, 9,933 ft. } English mountaineers.
ROUTES.
Carriages can only go to the Baths and back. Riders may visit Val
Bondasca from Promontogno, the Albigna Glacier from Vico Soprano,
the foot of the Forno Glacier from the Maloya Inn, and Alp Mazza in
Porcellizza from the Baths. For climbers, the following route embraces
the most inviting peaks:--Ascend Cima del Largo from Maloya Inn;
descend on to Zocca Pass (new, but perfectly practicable); sleep at La
Rasica. Ascend Disgrazia, return by Val Sasso Bisolo. Order a car from
Baths to meet you at Cattaeggio. Ascend Punta Trubinesca. Cross by Val
Codera to Splügen road. The two last _may_, no doubt, be combined in
the same day.
CHAPTER V.
_TARASP AND THE LIVIGNO DISTRICT._
APPROACHES AND CARRIAGE ROADS.
From the Rheinthal by the Prätigau and Fluela roads. From the Tyrolese
Innthal by the new road from the Finstermünz through the Lower
Engadine. From the Etschthal (Vintschgau), by the Münsterthal and Ofen
road (now practicable for carriages, and crossed by a diligence), or
by the Stelvio road to the Baths of Bormio. The high-roads of the Val
Tellina and Bernina Pass skirt the district on the S. and W.
INNS.
_Klosters._
Hotel and Pension Silvretta--frequented by Swiss--good (1866).
_Lower Engadine._
_Lavin_, two new good Inns, Piz Linard, or Post, and Steinbock (1871).
_Zernetz._ Bär, best (1871).
_Livigno._ A very rude country Inn (1866).
_Val Viola._ No inns between La Rosa and Bormio (1873).
PASSES FROM THE SOUTHERN RHINE VALLEY INTO THE LOWER ENGADINE.
Fluela Pass, carriage-road. Vereina Pass, Klosters--Süs; rough walk.
Verstankla Thor, Klosters--Lavin Glacier Pass, see p. 98. Silvretta
Pass, Klosters--Guarda Glacier Pass, see 'Alpine Guide,' p. 358.
Grialetsch Pass, Davos--Süs, taking on the way Piz Vadret, a difficult
rock-climb.
For the passes from the Tyrolese valleys of Montafon and Paznaun see
Tschudi's 'Ostschweiz,' Herr Weilenmann's 'Aus der Firnenwelt,' vol.
ii., and Weltenberger's 'Rhätikon-Kette, Lechthaler, und Vorarlberger
Alpen,' Perthes, 1875 (valuable map), and 'Alpine Guide,' p. 362.
EXCURSIONS FROM TARASP.
See Tschudi's 'Schweizerführer: Ostschweiz.' Recommended for climbers,
Piz Linard, 11,207 ft. Piz Pisoc, 10,427 ft., or Piz Lischanna, 10,181
ft., returning by the Scarlthal.
LIVIGNO DISTRICT.--PASSES.
Guides competent for any mountaineering in this district can be found
at Zernetz, and probably also at the Baths of Bormio.
_From the Engadine_ to _Val Livigno_.
From the Ofenhaus by path through the gorge of the Spöl. See 'Alpine
Guide,' p. 418.
Through Val Cluoza and Val del Diavel, and over Passo del Diavel, 7½
hrs. See pp. 112-14.
From Scanfs; Casana Pass, horse-road. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 418.
From Ponte; Lavirum Pass. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 418.
Bernina Häuser by Val del Fain and the Passo della Stretta. 'Alpine
Guide,' p. 406.
_Passes from Val Livigno to Val Viola._
To Semogo and Bormio by the Passo di Foscagno. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 417.
Horse-road.
To Dosdè Alp by Zembrasca Pass, foot, 5½ hrs. easy, and does not lie
over ice as marked on most maps.
To Val Viola Poschiavina, by Passo di Mera (P. di Campo of A. C. map),
foot. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 415.
To La Rosa by the Forcola and Val Agone, horse-road. 'Alpine Guide,' p.
417.
For the Passo di Val Viola see 'Alpine Guide,' p. 415. Most walkers
will require an hour more than the time allowed by Mr. Ball.
_Passes between Val Viola_ and _the Val Tellina_.
From Campo to Val Grosina; Passo di Verva, mule-road (?) 'Alpine
Guide,' p. 404.
From Dosdè Alp to Val Grosina; Passo di Dosdè, Glacier Pass, 6 hrs. to
Grosio. See pp. 119-20.
Between this and the next there is another glacier pass to be
discovered.
From Val Viola Poschiavina, to Val Grosina; Passo di Sacco, 'Alpine
Guide,' p. 404.
LIVIGNO DISTRICT.--PEAKS.
_Between Engadine_ and _Val Livigno_.
_Piz Quatervals_, 10,358 ft., the highest in this range, easiest from
Val Cluoza, but can be reached from any side.
_Piz d'Esen_, 10,269 ft. from Scanfs.
_Between Val Livigno_ and _Val Viola_.
_Monte Foscagno_, 10,130 ft. (?) } No information.
_Monte delle Mine_, 10,800 ft. }
_Monte Zembrasca_, 10,700 ft. (?), 10,827 Studer.
The ground at the head of Val Tressenda is very inaccurately laid down
on all maps. I assume the snow-peak conspicuous at the head of Val
Tressenda to be Monte Zembrasca, and the slightly higher rock summit
lying further E. to be the Monte delle Mine.
_Punta del Campo_, 10,843 ft. (Monte Vazzugna of A. C. map) ascended in
1866.
_Between Val Viola_ and _Val Tellina_.
_Cima di Piazza_, 11,713 ft. (?), first ascended in 1867 by Herr
Weilenmann, 6½ to 7½ hrs. from Baths of Bormio; 2½ to châlets of
Madonna d'Oga, then leaving the Cima San Colombano on the left, in 4½
hrs. to the top--rope required.
_Pizzo di Dosdè_; unascended from Dosdè Alp. [Correct 'Alpine Guide,'
p. 416, column 1, line 9 from bottom, by omitting words from ascended
to Walker.]
_Corno di Lago Spalmo_, 10,950 ft., highest peak unascended; the 2nd
reached in 1866.
_Corno di Dosdè_, 10,597 ft. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 416.
_Cima di Saoseo_, unascended, 10,729 ft.
_Punta di Teo_, 10,007 ft., from Poschiavo or La Rosa, a sharp scramble
at the end.
_Pizzo di Sena_, 10,099 ft.
ROUTES.
Carriage travellers can drive over the Fluela and Ofen Passes, and
thence by the Stelvio to the Lombard Alps.
Moderate walkers and riders should ascend the Schwarzhorn from the
Fluela, go from Tarasp by the Scarlthal to the Ofenhaus and Livigno,
and thence by the Passo di Foscagno and Passo di Verva to the Val
Tellina.
For walkers a good route is by Silvretta Glacier to Lower Engadine,
ascend Piz Linard or Piz Pisoc, returning by Scarlthal to Zernetz.
Livigno by Passo del Diavel; to châlets of Monte Elia in Val Viola
by Passo di Foscagno; ascend Cima di Piazza, and descend through Val
Grosina or to the Baths of Bormio.
CHAPTER VI.
_BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS._
APPROACHES AND CARRIAGE-ROADS.
The Milan-Lecco and Milan-Bergamo railroads, the Val Tellina; the
high-roads from Bergamo, Brescia, and the Val Camonica to Clusone;
Varenna and Bellano on the Lago di Como, are also good starting-points.
There are carriage-roads up all the main valleys, but none between
them, except in the case of Val Seriana and Val di Scalve.
INNS.
_Esino._ Food for the Grigna can be procured at the first house in the
upper village (1874).
_Introbbio._ The Albergo delle Miniere is closed, and there is only a
very indifferent country Inn, 'Osteria Antica,' in the middle of the
town (1874).
_Val Brembana._
_Val Torta._ Bread, eggs, and wine may be had here.
There is a good country Inn at the cross-roads below Olmo (1874).
_Branzi._ The accommodation has been improved. Very civil but slow
people (1874).
_San Pellegrino._ Bath-house, with warm iron springs.
_Zogno._ Inn strongly recommended by Herr Tschudi as a comfortable
centre for excursions.
_S. Omobuono_ in Val Imagna. Bath-house; iron springs.
_Val Seriana._
_Bondione._ Very rough, but clean beds (1874).
_Gromo._ Capital country Inn, with quick hostess (1874).
For other Inns, see 'Alpine Guide.'
ROUTES.
In this region every gap between two peaks is passable, and most of
them are used more or less by the people of the country. For a detailed
account of many of these side glens and byways the reader is referred
to Tschudi's 'Schweizerführer,' vol. iii. 'Ostschweiz,' a very handy
work.
It is only possible here to indicate a few routes and excursions.
Carriage travellers must in each valley return the way they came;
except that, from Clusone, they may turn eastwards to the Lago d'Iseo.
1. (Described in the text as far as Monte Gleno). Monte
Grigna, Introbbio, Val Torta, Branzi, Passo di Gornigo,
Bondione, Monte Gleno, descend to Schilpario in Val di
Scalve, cross one of the passes to Val Camonica, or drive
back to Clusone (5 days).
2. From Lecco through Val Imagna to Almenno and Val Brembana,
from Zogno by Oltre il Colle to Ponte di Nossa and Clusone,
ascend Presolana, and descend through the lower Val di Scalve
to Val Camonica (3 days).
3. From Sondrio ascend Corno Stella (8,595 ft.) by a path
recently made by the Italian Alpine Club; descend to Branzi;
cross Passo di Gornigo, or by the sources of the Brembo to
Fiumenero; ascend Monte Redorta (9,975 ft.) and return to
Sondrio (3 days).
Other excursions to be recommended are the ascents of Monte Aralalta,
or rather the exploration of the glens round its base, and the ascent
of the Pizzo dei Tre Signori. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 452.
CHAPTERS VII., VIII., IX., X., XI.
_ADAMELLO AND BRENTA GROUPS._
APPROACHES AND CARRIAGE-ROADS.
From the Engadine by the Bernina and Aprica Passes, 2 days' drive from
Pontresina to Edolo. From Lago di Como by the Val Tellina and Aprica
Pass, a day and a half's drive from Colico to Edolo. From Bergamo
or Brescia by Lago d'Iseo and Val Camonica, a day and a half's drive
to Edolo. From Brescia by Lago d'Idro and Tione to Pinzolo, 2 days'
drive. From Riva by Lago di Ledro and Tione, a day and a half's drive,
or by Alle Sarche, a day's drive, to Campiglio. From Trent by Vezzano
and Alle Sarche to Campiglio, a day. From San Michele by Val di Non
to Malè, one day from Botzen. From Sta. Catarina by the Gavia Pass to
Ponte di Legno (mule-road).
The only carriage-passes in this district are the Aprica and Tonale.
A new carriage-road from Pinzolo to Campiglio is just opened. It is
proposed to carry it on over the Ginevrie Pass to Val di Sole.
INNS.
_Val Camonica._
_Edolo._ Due Mori, fair and reasonable (1874).
_Ponte di Legno._ Inn clean, good food, civil people (1873).
_Cedegolo._ Fair accommodation; exorbitant charges (1874).
_Val di Sole._
_Malè._ Exorbitant charges (J. G. 1874).
_Fosine, Dimaro._ Fair country Inns; clean beds (1871).
_Pejo._ Slow and slovenly people, bad food (1871).
_Rabbi._ Rough, but clean beds, and enough to eat (1873).
_Campiglio._ Inn and Pension. Accommodation good, food indifferent,
charges somewhat high. Reductions and great improvements promised for
this year (1875), when it reopens under a new management.
_Giudicaria._
_Pieve di Buono._ Fair country Inn (1874).
_Pieve di Ledro._ Inn and Pension. Fairly comfortable (1874).
_Baths of Comano._ Good food and accommodation (1874).
_Tione._ Cavallo Bianco, a good country Inn (1874).
_Pinzolo._ Bonapace's. Food and lodging much improved; great civility
(1874).
" Posta. Also well spoken of by English visitors (1874).
_Stenico._ A fair country Inn (1874).
THE ADAMELLO GROUP
PASSES.
_Passo delle Malghette._
Campiglio to Pelizzano--5½ hours, easy.
_Passo di Cercen._
Bedole Alp to Vermiglio 7-8 hrs., rope required. See p. 203.
_Passo di Presena._
Mandron hut to Vermiglio.
_Bocchetta di Marocaro_, &c. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 476.
_Passo del Mandron._
Bedole Alp to Val d'Avio and Ponte di Legno, easy glacier pass, 9-10
hrs. See p. 227.
_Passo d'Avio._
Gap at N. base of Adamello; difficult descent into Val d'Avio.
_Passo d'Adamello._
Bedole Alp to Edolo. Gap near S. foot of Adamello; tolerably easy
descent into Val Miller, 6 hrs. up, 6 down. See p. 218.
_Passo d'Adame._
Bedole Alp to Cedegolo. A long but easy glacier pass.
_Passo di Fum._
Val di Fum to Val di Genova, by Passo dei Topeti. A direct descent of
the Lobbia Glacier has yet to be effected.
_Passo di San Valentino._ See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 480.
_Passo di Breguzzo._
Val di Fum to Breguzzo; easy.
_High-level route from Val di Borzago_ to _Val d'Avio_.
From Val Rendena to highest hut in Val di Borzago, 4½ hrs.; Carè Alto,
4 hrs.; Passo di Cavento. Lares--Fum Glaciers 2½; Passo della Lobbia
Alta; Lobbia--Mandron Glaciers, 1; Passo di Mandron, 1½ hr.; down to
Ponte di Legno, 4 hrs.; four hours shorter without the Carè Alto. See
p. 224.
PEAKS.
_Presanella_, 11,688 ft.--3 routes.
1. From Passo di Cercen--up, 3½ hrs., down, ¾ hr. See p. 199.
2. From Val di Genova by Val Gabbiol.
3. From Val Nambrone or Pinzolo by the Nardis Glacier--the
easiest--a day and a half from Campiglio or Pinzolo.
_Adamello_, 11,637 ft.--5 routes.
1. From Bedole Alp, ascent 6¼ hrs., easy. See p. 211.
2. From Alp in Val d'Avio by P. di Mandron, easy, and not longer
than from Bedole.
3. From Alp in Val d'Avio by Passo d'Avio, more direct, but
difficult.
4. From Val Miller, not difficult with a good guide, when the rocks
are free from ice, but unknown to the people of the country.
5. From Val di Salarno or Val d'Adame, easy.
A good day's walk for an active mountaineer, from the Bedole Alp, over
the Adamello, to Ponte di Legno, Edolo, or Cedegolo.
_Carè Alto_, 11,357 ft. (more probably 11,500). See p. 224.
From highest comfortable châlet in Val di Borzago, 6 hrs. by the W.
ridge. The E. ridge may prove possible and shorter. It is possible to
descend over the Lares Glacier into Val di Genova, to pass through the
Passo di Cavento into Val di Fum, or to take the course to Val Camonica
above referred to. A direct ascent of the peak from Val di Fum looks
very difficult.
The minor summits of this group have not all been attained; there are
none which appear to offer serious difficulties.
THE BRENTA GROUP.
PASSES.
_Passo del Grostè._
Campiglio--Flavona Alp, 4 hrs., easy.
_Bocca di Vallazza._
Flavona Alp--Val delle Seghe--Molveno. Rough walking, difficult to
find in fog, and not known in the country. In descending, keep near
the stream down to the bottom of the first step, afterwards on the left
bank, recrossing at the plain where the two branches of Val delle Seghe
unite.
_Passo di Flavona._
Flavona Alp--Spor. Easy mule-road.
From the Flavona Alp a rough cart-track leads through Val Teresena to
Tuenno in Val di Non in 4½ hrs. See p. 270.
_Bocca della Vallesinella._
Campiglio by the Vallesinella to N. branch of Val delle Seghe. A fine
pass, crosses a glacier, 7-8 hrs.
_Bocca di Brenta._ See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 487.
At least 9 hrs. from Pinzolo to Molveno.
_Passo d'Ambies._ See p. 257.
Pinzolo or Campiglio to Baths of Comano, 10-11 hrs.; requires a good
guide or practised climber and a rope. From Bocca dei Camozzi (see
post) turn left to gap in snowy ridge at head of Val Agola Glacier.
Descend trough at S. corner of gap into head of Val d'Ambies. It is
much the same distance whether the traveller goes at once into the
glen, or skirts to the right before descending. Tracks are soon found
in either case.
Pass from Val d'Ambies to Val Cedeh and Molveno, not difficult.
Pass from Val d'Ambies to Val d'Algone; no information, but certainly
easy.
Pra Fiori Pass, Pinzolo--Val d'Algone, a good mule-path, 3 to 3½ hrs.
to glassworks; thence carriage-road to Stenico.
PEAKS.
B. Nicolosi of Molveno is an excellent guide for the Brenta group. He
is strong, skilful, and always in a good temper.
No information as to the minor peaks N. of the Cima di Brenta, the
Sasso Alto, Sasso Rosso, Mondifra and Cima di Grostè. It is believed
they have been ascended from Campiglio.
_Cima di Brenta_, 10,615 ft.
Up 5 hrs., down 3 hrs. Follow path through wood, round S. base of Monte
Spinale; ascend the Vallesinella to the châlet, cross stream, and climb
zigzag path to brow overlooking Val Brenta. Skirt Val Brenta side of
some rocks, then recross into head of the Vallesinella; ascend glacier
seen among the cliffs right. From platform at its head climb rocks
left, and pass over the first to the highest peak. See p. 264.
2nd route, from _Bocca della Vallesinella_.
_Cut up steep snow-slope S. of Bocca, and keep close to the E. side of
a small glacier--up 1½ hr., down 20 m._
_Cima Tosa_, 10,780 feet. See p. 275 and 'Alpine Guide,' p. 489.
_Cima di Nafdisio_, or _Cinglo di Movlina_, 10,000 ft. (?) The peak
visible from Pinzolo. Unascended.
EXCURSIONS FROM PINZOLO.
Guides recommended by the Trentine Alpine Society--G. Botteri, employed
by Payer; G. Catturani, has ascended the Adamello; Antonio dalla
Giacoma, detto Lusion da Caderzone; all know the Presanella. Good
donkeys, but no mules or side-saddles, are to be had at Pinzolo. B.
Nicolosi, of Molveno, has been up the Carè Alto. N. Clemente of Roncone
(near Tione) knows Val di Fum. Francesco P. Peotta and Sebastiano D.
Roer, both of Stenico, for Val d'Algone and the Cima Tosa (?)
_For moderate walkers._
Pra Fiori. Along ridge to Dos di Sabione, descend through Val Agola, 6
to 8 hrs.
For other excursions in the Brenta group, see Campiglio.
In the Adamello range,--
La Porta dell' Amola. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 471.
Lago di San Giuliano and Corno Alto. Must command fine views.
Bedole and Venezia châlets. 8 hrs. there and back; car-road for some
miles, then horse-path 'Alpine Guide,' p. 475.
Val di Borzago. 1 hrs. drive, to Borzago 2 hrs. walk, up valley.
Should, if possible, be combined with Corno Alto.
_For climbers._ See Peaks and Passes, ante.
EXCURSIONS FROM CAMPIGLIO.
Guides. See Pinzolo. A forester can generally be found, and, except
on snow or ice, these men are as a rule quite capable. Donkeys may be
hired, and side-saddles are promised for 1875. Visitors will find it
easy to add largely to the list given below.
_For moderate walkers._
Monte Spinale, 3 hrs. easy walking.
Monte Ritorto, a little longer.
Vallesinella and tour of Monte Spinale--a beautiful walk.
Vallesinella. Follow path to Cima Tosa (see ante), but instead of
recrossing into Vallesinella, follow track right, leading to upper
level of Val di Brenta--the finest easy excursion.
To head of Val di Brenta, 5 to 6 hrs. there and back.
Val Agola, Dos di Sabione, Pinzolo; or Val Agola, Glassworks in Val
d'Algone, Pinzolo. See ante.
_For climbers._
Bocca dei Camozzi, Campiglio--Pinzolo. Mount glacier S.W. of Cima Tosa
to head, descend glacier falling towards Val Agola, leaving it on its
left bank, 11 hrs.; rope necessary; a magnificent walk.
See Peaks and Passes, ante. The Cima Tosa and Cima di Brenta can be
ascended without sleeping out.
ROUTES.
_For riders and carriage travellers._
Cross the Aprica, and Tonale Passes, Val di Sole, Ginevrie Pass,
Campiglio, Pinzolo, Tione, Riva, by Lago di Ledro, Baths of Comano,
Stenico, Molveno, San Michele.
_For walkers._
Coming from the Orteler. For High Passes from Santa Catarina to Val di
Sole, see Appendix C. Over the Presanella to Pinzolo and Campiglio;
over Cima di Brenta to Molveno; return by Cima Tosa to Pinzolo, Val
di Genova, Adamello, Ponte di Legno; [or Adamello, Val Saviore, Val
di Fum, Carè Alto by Passo di Cavento, descending to Tione by Val di
Borzago.]
CHAPTER XII.
THE PRIMIERO DISTRICT.
APPROACHES.
_From the West._
By the high-road from the railroad at Neumarkt, passing through
Predazzo. Carriage-road from Trent, through Val Sugana to Strigno and
Tesino; thence mule-path.
_From the South._
By the high-road from Vicenza, through Bassano to Fonzaso, and thence
up the valley of the Cismone to Primiero (carriage-road, with a break
of 10 miles between Fonzaso and Pontetto).
_From the East._
From Cortina (mule-road), or Belluno (carriage-road), to Val d'Agordo
and thence by mule-path, or to Fonzaso _viâ_ Feltre and thence as
above.
_From the North._
From railroad at Bruck, Atzwang, or Botzen, over Seisser Alp or Caressa
Pass, to Campidello or Vigo (mule-paths); thence road to Predazzo,
Paneveggio, and over Costonzella Pass.
INNS.
_Paneveggio._
The old Hospice is well kept. There is one good bedroom, and 3 others
tolerable, and the fare is reasonably good (1872).
_San Martino di Castrozza._
A large new Inn and Pension is to be opened here this year (1875).
_Agordo._
The Inn here has been hardly treated by some recent travellers. It
fully deserves the praise given in the 'Alpine Guide' (1872).
PASSES.
ROUND THE PRIMIERO GROUP.
{Agordo-Primiero, good and much frequented
_Passo di Gosaldo._ {mule-path--7 to 8 hrs. See p. 286 and 'Alpine Guide,'
_Passo di Cereda._ {p. 468. Food can be got at the villages on the way,
{and wine at a little inn beautifully situated
{near the second pass.
_Passo di Costonzella._
Primiero, S. Martino, Paneveggio, Predazzo. Good carriage-road. See p.
284 and 'Alpine Guide,' p. 458 (vol. iii.).
_Passo di Valles._
Paneveggio to Cencenighe, Agordo or Caprile; mule-road; 'Alpine Guide,'
p. 488.
ACROSS THE GROUP.
_Passo di Travignolo._
Paneveggio to Gares, through the gap between the Cimon della Pala
and Vezzana, would be more difficult the other way; rope and ice-axes
required. (6½ hrs.) See p. 297.
_Passo delle Cornelle._
San Martino to Gares; no difficulty, but rough walking. See p. 294 and
'Alpine Guide,' p. 469.
_Passo ?_
San Martino to Valle di San Lucano. From the Passo delle Cornelle
strike across the table-land to the route of the Passo di Canale,
near the Coston di Miel. The distance between the tracks of these two
passes would probably be little more than an hour. Not yet made (?) but
certainly easy.
_Passo di Val Pravitale._
Gares, or San Martino to Val di Pravitale, and Primiero. A rough but
easy walk.
_Passo di Canale._
Primiero--Valle di San Lucano--Agordo. See p. 288; 'Alpine Guide,' p.
469.
The various passes over the table-land behind the Primiero peaks can be
combined at discretion. It would be quite possible, for instance, to go
from Paneveggio to Primiero, by the Passo di Travignolo and the Passo
di Val Pravitale, ascending either the Vezzana or the Fradusta.
The passes between the Primiero valley and Val di Mel await
exploration. The route over Monte Pavione is described in the 'Alpine
Guide,' p. 456.
PEAKS.
IN THE PRIMIERO GROUP.
_Cima Fuocobono._ Unascended.
_Cima di Vezzana._ Easy from Gares by the route of the Passo di
Travignolo, more difficult from Paneveggio.
_Cimon della Pala._ Very difficult; only to be attempted with
first-rate guides, and from the side of Paneveggio.
_Cima della Rosetta._ Easy ½ hr. from Passo delle Cornelle.
_Palle di San Martino._ Unascended.
_Cima di Ball._ Tolerably easy from the Val Pravitale.
_Sass Maor._ Unascended.
_Cima Cimedo._ Unascended; probably easy.
_Cima della Fradusta._ Easy from Val Pravitale.
_Cima di Canale._} Easy from Passo di Canale.
_Coston di Miel._}
_Sasso di Campo._} Unascended.
_Sasso Ortiga._ }
The principal outlying peaks towards Val d'Agordo are Monte Agnaro,
Monte San Lucano, Cima di Pape. The last is a fine view point, easily
accessible from Cencenighe.
S. OF PASSO DI GOSALDO.
_Il Piz._ Unascended (the height is often under-estimated; it must be
about 9,500 ft.).
EXCURSIONS FROM PRIMIERO.
See Ball's 'Alpine Guide,' p. 456.
Mountaineers can ascend to the table-land by any one of the glens,
and return by another. See Peaks and Passes, ante. There are no good
guides as yet at Primiero. There are fair men at Cortina and Caprile,
a day's journey east. To moderate walkers the following excursions are
recommended by Mr. Gilbert.
I. Down the Valley to Mezzano, and up the very fine gorge of the Noana.
The ravine may be followed till a small malga upon an alp is reached;
then turning N., the deep valley of the Asinozza is crossed, and
bearing to the left, the Capella di S. Giovanni, upon a charming little
alp, may be visited. Thence resume the Northern course, and descend
direct upon Primiero. This is a pleasant round for ladies.
II. Cross the bridge to Ormanico, and ascend the hill behind the
village; an easy path works up a small valley, turning eventually upon
the side of the hill that impends over the Castello della Pietra. Here
is a terrace path, at a considerable height, which, with the open alp
beyond, commands a striking view of Val di Canale, and of the array of
peaks at its head.
III. The finest walk from Primiero is certainly past the Castello della
Pietra up Val di Canale. Arriving at the entrance of Val Pravitale the
path up the Val di Canale may be pursued a short distance, and then
turning to the left a path may be taken along the ridge overlooking
Val Pravitale, and commanding fine views of it, and of the Sas Maor
opposite.
IV. The new road to San Martino di Castrozza affords the best general
view of the Primiero Dolomites, and an agreeable variation is obtained
by ascending the hills on the left towards Mte. Scanaiol, and visiting
the Lago Calaita, at foot of Mte. Arzon, which ought to offer a good
panoramic view of the district. I have not heard of anyone ascending
it. From the Lago Calaita, a bare scene, the Val di Lozen might be
descended till it joins the Canale di S. Bovo, not far from the wild
Lago Nuovo. But the traveller returning to Primiero ought to turn S.
before the village of Prade, cross a low ridge, and either descend by
the regular mule-track through the Cismone valley, or follow a charming
path which runs along the N. slope of the valley high above Imer and
Mezzano.
V. Ascent of Mte. Pavione. Very interesting view to South. Ladies can
ride to foot of final peak. Two routes, one through the Noana gorge for
some distance. Four hours to summit from Primiero. Belluno, Venice, and
Aquileia visible in clear weather. Dolomites not well shown.
ROUTES.
_For riders._
Agordo, Excursion to Valle di San Lucano, Primiero by mule-road. Drive
to Paneveggio, return by Passo di Valles to Agordo or Caprile.
_For walkers._
From Agordo by Passo di Canale to Primiero. To San Martino by Val
Pravitale and Cima della Rosetta. To Paneveggio by Laghi di Colbricon;
thence to Gares by Passo di Travignolo, ascending Cima di Vezzana on
the way.
CHAPTER XIII.
_VAL DI ZOLDO._
INNS.
See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.
A good new Inn, Hotel Antelao, has lately been opened at San Vito, on
the Ampezzo road.
APPROACHES.
Val di Zoldo is enclosed on three sides between the carriage-road of
the Val d'Agordo and the Ampezzo, 'strada regia,' and on the fourth
by the mule-pass from S. Vito to Caprile. It is only accessible by
horse-paths, and the best starting-points are Longarone, Tai di Cadore,
San Vito, Caprile, and Agordo.
PEAKS.
_Pelmo_, 10,377 ft. See p. 314 and 'Alpine Guide,' p. 525; 1st column,
13 lines from bottom, read, 'from the S. and E. sides of the mountain.'
The route from Zoppé is the same as that from Borca followed by Mr.
Ball. Agosto di Marco of Brusadaz is a good guide.
_Civetta_, 10,440 ft. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 526.
_Monte Moscosin._}
_Monte Vescova._ } E. of Agordo.
_Monte Pelf._ }
_Sasso di Bosco Nero._ } Unascended. E. of Forno di Zoldo.
_Monte Sfornioi._ }
PASSES.
_Forcella del Sasso di Bosco Nero._
Forno di Zoldo to Ospitale. Descend the valley to a point 10 min.
beyond the octagon oratory of San Giovanni, pass below Fagare, and
cross (40 min.) to the left bank of Val Bosco Nero; ascend valley to
pass (1 hr. 50 min.); descend into Val di Campestrin and the Casera di
Val Bona, and thence by a path on the left side of the torrent into the
valley of the Piave (2 hrs.). M. Holzmann.
_Forcella Cibiana._
Forno di Zoldo to Venas, horse-path. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.
Zoppé to Vodo, horse-path. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 523.
_Passo di Rutorto._
Zoppé or San Nicolo to San Vito, horse-path skirting the base of the
Pelmo (about 5 hrs.).
_Forcella Stanlanza._
Pecol to Val Fiorentina, and by Forcella Forada to San Vito. This with
the Passo di Rutorto completes the circuit of the Pelmo. It is easy
to cross from the Campo di Pelmo to the Forcella Stanlanza without
descending into Val di Zoldo, so that this circuit can well be made in
a day by an active walker.
_Passo d'Alleghe._
Pecol to Alleghe or Caprile, mule-path. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 526.
_Passo di Duram._
Agordo to San Tiziano. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.
_Passo Moscosin._ Agordo to Forno di Zoldo.
This pass is the depression between Monte Piacedel and Monte Moscosin.
It connects the heads of Val Crasa and Val Pramper di Zoldo. The
Passo Pramper, between Monte Pramper and Monte Vescova, mentioned in
the 'Alpine Guide' as leading from Forno di Zoldo to Agordo, would
necessitate crossing three ridges, and passing through Val Pramper di
Zoldo, Val Pramper di Grisol, Val di Rossi, Val Crasa, and the valley
of the Bordina, and it would be shorter to pass from the upper part of
the latter into the valley of the Misiaga. M. Holzmann.
_Passo di Lavarede._ Agordo to Longarone, by Val di Vescova.
This is a low pass S. of Monte Vescova, crossing the ridge near the
châlets of Lavarede.
FOOTNOTES:
[76] The references in this Appendix from the first to the
eleventh chapter are to vol. ii. of the 3-volume edition
of the _Alpine Guide_, which has not been repaged for the
10-section edition.
[77] This is the spelling of Dufour's map. A second 's' was
wrongly inserted in the text after it had left my hands.
_APPENDIX B._
PICTURES AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS.
_Alzano Maggiore_ (5 kilomètres N. of Bergamo). In the parish church,
fine picture of Lorenzo Lotto representing St. Peter Martyr (see Crowe
and Cavalcaselle, 'History of Painting in North Italy,' vol. ii. p
545), and another worth notice by Appiani. The pulpit in marble, with
Caryatids and bass-reliefs by Andrea Fantoni. In the sacristy, a set of
most beautiful carvings and inlaid works by Fantoni and Caniana, of the
seventeenth century.
_Olera_ (5 kilomètres N. of Alzano). Altarpiece with carvings and
statues in wood, and paintings on panel, attributed to Cima di
Conegliano (to Francesco Santa Croce, C. and C., vol. ii. p. 542), a
work of great beauty.
_Albino_ (Valle Seriana). In the parish church pictures of G. B. Moroni
and Talpino.
_Fiorano_ (Valle Seriana). Very beautiful altarpiece by G. B. Moroni.
_Oneta_ (in Val di Gorno). At the church of the Madonna del Frassino
on the eastern slopes of Monte Alben. Fine picture in compartments of
Girolamo Santa Croce.
_Parre_ (Valle Seriana). Much extolled picture of G. B. Moroni.
_Clusone_ (Valle Seriana). On the outer walls of the Chapel of the
Confraternità, fresco representing the triumph of Death, recalling the
celebrated Dance by Holbein; the style is Tuscan (C. and C., vol. ii.
p. 535).
In the neighbouring _Rovetta_, birthplace of the carver and sculptor
Fantoni, rich collection of work and models of the family Fantoni, who
were for more than three centuries distinguished as wood-carvers and
sculptors in marble, and whose works are found throughout the valley.
_Fino._ In a small church, fine picture of G. B. Moroni.
_Gromo_ (Val Seriana). Picture attributed to Talpino, and remarkable
church furniture of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
_Trescorre_ (14 kilomètres E. of Bergamo; sulphurous baths) Capella
de' Suardi, entirely covered with frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto, a most
important work in his best manner, damaged in parts (C. and C., vol.
ii. pp. 515-517).
_Zandobbio_ (near _Trescorre_). Beautiful confessional and wood
carvings by Fantoni.
_Gorlago_ (in the parish church), three pictures by Moroni, the best is
'The Adoration of the Magi;' also his last work representing 'The Last
Judgment' (much damaged).
West of Bergamo, near Almenno, on the right bank of the Brembo, is
a circular church of the sixth or seventh century, one of the most
remarkable architectural remains of its epoch in North Italy.
_Serina_ in Val d'Ambria (side valley of Val Brembana). In the parish
church several pictures (damaged) by Palma il Vecchio, who was born
here. In the Chiesa dei Frati, a Crucifixion by Palma il Giovane,
decaying (C. and C., vol. i. p. 281, vol. ii. pp. 467-8 and 543).
In another small church a very fine picture of the Venetian School in
the manner of Titian.
_Cornello_ (Val Brembana above S. Pellegrino). Remains of the old house
of the ancestors of Tasso.
_Fondra_ (Val Brembana). Paintings by Benvenuto da Garofalo.
_Averara_ (Val Brembana above Olmo). In the parish church a fine
picture of Guerinoni (Bergamasque School, about A.D. 1576).
_Mezzoldo_ (Val Brembana). Valuable Ancona in the choir by Lattanzio da
Rimini, A.D. 1505.
_Dossena_ (Val Brembana). Important picture by Palma il Vecchio, a good
deal injured. Most beautiful Paul Veronese, another also noteworthy
picture of the Venetian School, perhaps by Bonifazio Bembo.
Tschudi's 'Schweizerführer' speaks also of Tintorettos at Casnigo and
Vertova in Val Seriana, and mentions several other village churches
as containing pictures of the Brescian School. Tassi's 'Lives of the
Bergamasque Painters,' Bergamo, 1707, may also be studied by those who
wish for further information. There is a copy in the British Museum.
_APPENDIX C._
ROUTES FROM SANTA CATARINA TO VAL DI SOLE.
The following notes of two routes from Santa Catarina to Val di Sole
may be useful to good walkers who wish to avoid the long circuit by the
Gavia and Tonale or the dull Passo dei Tre Signori.
I. _Santa Catarina to Pejo, by the Pizzo della Mare_ (Punta di San
Matteo of Payer). The ascent of this peak from the Gavia Glacier is
an easy but interesting walk, and the view on a clear day unsurpassed
in extent in the Alps, reaching from Monte Viso to the Ankogel above
Gastein. The summit is at times a great wave of snow overhanging the
Forno Glacier; care should be taken therefore in approaching the edge.
From the peak a perfectly easy route, first found by Lieutenant Payer,
leads down into Val della Mare by the Gh. degli Orsi. This glacier
lies considerably to the E. of the peak, and on the southern side of
the pass (Passo degli Orsi) at the extreme head of the Forno Glacier.
Its icefall is turned by the rocky slopes on the left; below this it
is best to descend at once into the valley rather than to follow a
tempting path leading along the hillside to the left, which comes to a
sudden end in a wood. This route occupies nine hours, or only one more
than the Passo dei Tre Signori.
II. _Santa Catarina to Rabbi by Monte Cevedale and the Pizzo della
Venezia._ From Santa Catarina, Monte Cevedale may be ascended through
Val Cedeh, in about six hours. To reach Rabbi, the following directions
must be followed: Having returned to the gap between the two summits
(Mr. Tuckett's Fürkele Joch), traverse the crevassed southern face
of the eastern peak to the ridge descending to the Hohenferner Joch.
Follow this ridge, cross the gap, and keep along the rocky crest
dividing the Val della Mare from the Martell Thal. After an easy
ascent, a small glacier will be crossed, and the crest again struck
to the east of the stonemen, marking the second pass mentioned by Mr.
Ball ('Alpine Guide,' vol. ii. p. 438).[78] Then climb the shoulder
of the Pizzo della Venezia to a point scarcely 150 feet below that
rather insignificant summit. Few passes in the Alps command views
equal to those of the central mass of the Orteler obtained between the
Hohenferner Joch and this point, including on the one hand the bold
peaks of the Königsspitze, Zebru, and Orteler itself; on the other,
the vast snowy masses which surround the Forno Glacier, sending down
on this side also large glaciers into Val della Mare. The Œtzthaler
Ferner are well seen, and, in the opposite direction, the whole height
of the Presanella, a splendid object rising behind the meadows of Val
di Pejo. A descent of five minutes leads to the level snow-fields of
the Vedretta della Venezia, which are crossed to a broad gap, forming
the highest pass between the Val della Mare and the Rabbi valley.
Its height (about 10,300 feet) is sufficient to overlook the opposite
eastern ranges, and to command a wide prospect over the fertile hills
of the Nonsberg and the rich Trentino, fenced in like a garden by the
distant spikes of the Botzen and Primiero Dolomites.
In descending, keep at first on the left side of the small glacier;
from the platform below its foot, bear to the right, to the highest
pasturage, then to the left over a grass-slope, leading to a stream
which must be crossed. The precipices which now stop the way have to
be turned by keeping well to the left, and scrambling down a steep but
easy gully which leads to a track near the foot of one of the great
steps in the valley. The path follows the right bank down three steep
and stony descents separated by small plains. Below the last, and near
some cottages, it crosses the stream, and after a time begins to mount
along the hillside towards the village of Piazzola. For the Baths it is
best to follow a water course, and then run down into the level meadows
which extend for a mile above the mineral source.
This route is very direct, free from difficulty, and, though long,
not too laborious, involving only one re-ascent of about 1,000 ft.
The latter part of it is of course equally available for mountaineers
crossing from the Suldenthal to Rabbi, as Monte Cevedale can be
ascended from St. Gertrud in about the same time as from Santa
Catarina. Our times were: ascent of Monte Cevedale, 6 hrs.; to shoulder
of Pizzo Venezia, 3 hrs.; to pass overlooking Val di Rabbi, 50 min.;
descent to Baths, 3 hrs. Total, 12 hrs. 50 min., without halts.
FOOTNOTES:
[78] In the '_Karte der Centralen Ortlergruppe_,' published
under the authority of the German Alpine Club and to be seen
at Santa Catarina, the route can be followed with sufficient
accuracy. Ball's Hohenferner Joch is there Fürkel Scharte,
and his second more easterly pass, the Hohenferner Joch. The
Vedretta della Venezia becomes the Vedretta Careser. The
small glacier falling towards Val di Rabbi is well shown,
but the ground below it is left vague. In this map the whole
southwest limb of the Orteler group is most inaccurately
represented, and might better have been left a blank.
_APPENDIX D._
THE CHURCHES OF VAL RENDENA.
By the kindness of Signori Marchetti and Meneguzzi, the President and
Secretary of the Trentine Alpine Society, I am able to furnish the
following copy of the inscription in San Stefano. They warn me that
the transcription is probably not altogether accurate. Having received
it only at the last moment before publication, I have been unable to
consider it as carefully as I should have wished:--
'_Hæc est copia privilegi Sancti Stephani de Randena._ Carulus Magnus
de Francia[79] constituit conscilium suum consulem causa veniendi in
montes Blaye[80] et ducebat secum 4000 lanceas et veniebat ad civitatem
Bergami de qua erat dominus unus qui nominabatur dux Lupus qui erat
paganus. Et prædictus Carulus certabat secum causa convertendi ipsum.
'Qui dux cepit Sandrum et multos alios, qui fecit eos decapitare
et quum decapitaverunt Sandrum VI cerei ardentes nullo eos tenente
apparuerunt ey duci et gentibus circumstantibus et campane per Dey
gratiam et sine aliquo auxilio mundano pulsaverat. Et hoc fuit per
signum sanctitatis prædicti Sandri et viso isto miraculo prædictus dux
Lupus cum tota sua gente conversus est ad
'catolicam fidem. Qui prædictus dux Lupus post modum venit cum
prædicto Carulo Magno ad unum castelum quod vocatur Sanctus Johannes
de Calla[81] in quo castelo morabatur unus qui nominabatur Alorus. Qui
Alorus cum vidit tantam gentem circumstantem suo castelo conversus est
(ad) Christi fidem. Qui prædictus Alorus misit unam sacerdotem ad unum
castelum quod dicitur castelum Amoni cujus
'casteli erat dominus unus qui nominabatur Lamideus judeus. Et prædicta
sacerdos tractavit prodictionem valis Oriole[82] quæ fidelis erat.
Et prædictus Carulus venit in valem Oriolam et ivit ad unum castelum
quod vocabatur Jesen[83] cujus casteli erat dominus unus judeus qui
nominabatur Hercules quem Carulus interfecit quia noluit converti se.
Et ibi fecit hedificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancte Trinitatis cui
ecclesie VII
'episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentiæ pro singulo singula die et
dominus Pontifex concessit 1500 annos indulgentiæ. Et predictus Carulus
recessit et ivit ad portam Blasie[84] et ibi erat unus castelanus qui
nominabatur Judeus qui nolebat credere catolice fidey. Et Carulus
certavit et destruxit eum et ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad
honorem Sancti Stefani et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies
'indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus
concedit singulo die dominico LXX dies indulgentie. Et adhuc Carulus
ivit super unum monticulum et episcopus Tripinus ferebat visilum[85]
(?) super illum monticulum. Et ibi Carulus fecit edificare unam
ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Petri Cuchi. Et post modum venit ad
unum castelum quod vocabatur Braitinus[86] in quo morabatur unus qui
nominabatur
'rex Cornerus et erat judeus qui nolebat se converti ad fidem
catolicam. Et Carulus certavit secum et eum destruxit. Et ibi fecit
edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Joannis. Et predicti VII
episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo. Et predictus
Pontifex Urbanus concedit quingentos annos omni festo principali. Et
post modum venit ad unum alium monticulum et ibi fecit edificare unam
ecclesiam
'ad honorem sancti Clementis. Et VII episcopi concederunt XL dies
indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus
concedit 600 annos indulgentie omni die dominico. Qui prædictus
Carulus ivit super unum montem et ibi cristiani cum judeis et cum
paganis fecerunt magnum bellum. Et quia perierunt multi fideles et
plures infideles Carulus posuit sibi unum nomen (?) quod dicitur
Mortarolus.[87] Et adhuc ivit ad
'unam contratam quæ dicitur Amon.[88] Et ibi fecit edificare unam
ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Bricii et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt
XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et prædictus Pontifex
Urbanus concedit 900 annos indulgentie omni die veneris et omni festo
sancte Marie et in festo sancti Bricii. Qui dictus Carulus ivit ad unam
terram quæ vocatur Adavena.[89] Et
'ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Michaellis et
sancti Georgii. Et post modum fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem
sancti Sandri. Et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie
pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit 400
annos indulgentie in die sancti Sandri. Et adhuc in capite illius
vallis
'fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancte Trinitatis. Per
sanctum Iohannem de Calla[90] et per castelum Amoni[91] vallis Oriola
perdidit suum nomen. Et adhuc prædictus Carulus pertransivit montem
Toni[92] et venit ad unam terram quæ vocatur Plezau.[93] Et ibi
interfecit magnam quantitatem paganorum et judeorum. Et ibi prædictus
episcopus Tripinus posuit visilum et quum episcopi venerunt
'extra ecclesiam invenerunt astam visili quæ floruerat. Et prædicti
VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo et dominus
Pontifex extraxit suam cirotecam et fecit impleri arena et concedit
omni die sancte Marie tot annos indulgentie quot grana arene
insteterunt cirotece. Qui prædictus Carulus pertransivit quamdam vallem
quæ vocatur Valiana.[94] Et venit
'ad unum montem qui vocatur Moschera[95] et venit in valem Randene[96]
et misit dicere majori judeo quod aut debet in christianam fidem
credere aut redere castelum. Et cum sensit novum recessit et ivit
ultra mare. Et facto mane Carulus dejecit castelum. Et ivit ad unum
castelum quod vocatur Pelucus.[97] Cujus casteli erat dominus unus
qui nominabatur Catanius judeus qui conversus fuit ad Christi fidem.
Et Carulus dejecit castelum. Et fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad
honorem sancti Zenonis. Et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies
indulgentie pro singulo singula die. _Et venerunt ad ecclesiam Sancti
Stefani et baptizaverunt maximum gentem. Et predicti VII episcopi
concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die._
'Antonius de Solerio habuit gratiam de 1500 annis indulgentie pro
ecclesia sancti Stefani de Randena omni die dominico primo mensis
et omni festo principali quia stetit septem annis (1) secum pro suo
damicello. Prædictus Carulus explevit convertire omnes paganos et
judeos ad ecclesiam sancti Stefani. Et ibi dimisit unum librum in quo
continebat omnia que
'fecerat per universum. Et post modum recessit cum sua gente et
ivit in Blaviam.[98] _Carulus Imperator et Pontifex Urbanus et
prænominati septem Episcopi concederunt suprascriptam indulgentiam
prænominatis ecclesis sub annis domini nostri Jesu Christi currentibus
quatuorcentesimo vigesimo nono._'
An inscription almost similar, but wanting the passages printed in
italics, and with a few verbal alterations, exists also at Pelizzano.
Several difficulties in this curious inscription will at once strike
the reader. For a moment he may be disposed to fancy that it records
a joint expedition of Pope and Emperor, and, boldly reading Adrianus
for Urbanus, to believe that the events recorded all took place during
Charles' Lombard campaign, circa A.D. 780. But, so far as I know, there
is no record of Adrian having ever been with Charles in North Italy;
and the gift of indulgences had not become common at this period.
It is most probable that events separated by several centuries, the
foundation of the churches and the privileges subsequently granted
them, are here lumped together. The Urban of the inscription may
very likely be Urban II., who, wanting money for the first crusade,
was very ready to grant indulgences. The date of the inscription
is unintelligible as it stands, but it is almost certain that the
'thousand' has dropped out, and that we should read 1429.
Mr. Ball speaks of the inscription recording a privilege granted by
Charles and 'the reigning Pope Eugenius.' He does not remember whence
he got the Pope's name. It may be from the fresco (see text) near the
inscription. Eugenius IV. was on the Papal throne in A.D. 1431.
The picturesque force and detail with which the story of Charles'
campaign is told, as well as the language, leads me to imagine that
some earlier record must have been in part copied. The existence of
'pagans' in these valleys up to a late period is a well authenticated
fact. I am glad to be able to quote an interesting passage bearing on
this subject from an article on Bagolino, by Cave. G. Rosa, in the
Bollettino of the Brescian Branch of the Italian Alpine Club.
'Questi monti sono appendici delle alpi Rezie, e furono rifugio al
fiore delle colonie umbre ed etrusche in seguito alle invasioni, prima
gallica indi cenomana. Nelle alpi si posero a lato le genti silvestri
primitive e vi esercitarono le arti metallurgiche ed edificative. Ai
romani opposero tale resistenza che 45 anni a. C., Bruto, scrivendone
a Cicerone, li disse i più bellicosi degli uomini (_bellicosissimi
hominum_), nondimeno furono definitivamente sottomessi 15 anni a. C. e
resi tributari a Brescia. Nei trofei romani sono nominati i _Camuni_,
indi i _Triumplini_, poi i _Vennoni_, fra i soggiogati, e ramo di
questi Vennoni dovette essere nell' attuale valle di Sabbio ove sta
Bagolino. Giacchè ivi suonano ancora i nomi di Avenù, Lavenù, Savenù.
Vie traverse legavano allora assai più che adesso i popoli di queste
valli confederate contro i dominatori del piano. I romani, dopo il
conquisto, tennero in capo alle valli stazioni militari con torri
di rifugio, come ora i russi nel Caucaso, per vegliare gli schiavi
alle miniere, e sicurare le vie, ma lasciarono liberi i reggimenti
comunali. Quando poi Costantino preferì l'alleanza dei cristiani e
rese obbligatorio il cristianesimo, le valli più elevate resistettero
a questa nuova forma di romanismo, e sino al predominio de' Franchi,
in qualche luogo serbarono i riti antichi di _Saturno_, di _Tunal_,
di _Tor_, di _Bergimo_, riti che l'ignoranza poscia confuse colle
diavolerie stregoniche. I luoghi elevati e romiti dove rifuggirono le
reliquie di que' riti vetusti, si ricordano ancora col nome di _Pagà_.
Alle fonti più meridiane della Grigna trovansi l'orto dei _Pagani_
ed il dosso dei _Pagani_, dove sono ossa ed embrici romani, e tronchi
fracidi di larici in un laghetto. A Bagolino è la _via pagana, rocca
pagana_; a Storo rimpetto ergesi acuta la corna _pagana_.
'I gruppi federativi dei popoli alpini ebbero sempre costituzioni
libere. Le loro abitazioni di legno e coperte di paglia o di
_scandole_, ed i frequenti fuochi per la siderurgia vi produssero fieri
incendi, i quali e le inondazioni distrussero la massima parte dei loro
documenti antichi. Nondimeno rimase tanto da argomentare sicuramente
della loro vita libera perpetua a forma repubblicana. Il documento
di Valle Seriana che dice del palazzo fabbricato a Clusone nel 1008
pel Consiglio federale o delle Vicinie, quello del 1086 che accenna
il luogo del Consiglio ed i Consoli di Lodrone, le quattro carte
nell' archivio di Bovegno del 1196 che nominano Sindaci e Consoli di
Vicinie, bastano ad assicurare che anche Bagolino, più grosso che quei
centri, avrà avuto sino d' allora rappresentanze elettive. E la via del
_palazzo_ vi accenna ad antica magione pubblica.'
In Miss Busk's 'Valleys of Tirol,' p. 365, will be found mention of
executions for witchcraft, near the Tonale Pass, in the 17th and 18th
centuries, in which some of the last of the pagans may be supposed to
have perished. Miss Busk derived her information from another pamphlet
of Cave Rosa, which I have not seen.
The same gentlemen have also sent me a description of the 'Dance of
Death' of San Vigilio. Beginning on the left, the subjects arrange
themselves in the following order:--
1. Three skeletons: one seated on a rude throne formed of two lofty
steps and blowing the utricorn; the other two with musical instruments
at their mouths. Beneath is written--
Io sont[99] la morte che porto corona
Sonte signora de ognia persona
Et cossì son fiera e dura
Che trapasso le porte et ultra le mura
Et son quela che fa tremar el mondo
Revolzendo mia falze atondo atondo.
Ov'io tocco col mio strale
Sapienza beleza forteza niente vale.
Non è signor madona nè vassallo
Bisogna che lor entri in questo ballo.
Mia figura o peccator contemplarai
Simile a mi tu diverrai.
Non offendere a Dio per tal sorte
Che al transire[100] non temi la morte;
Che più oltre non me impazo in be' nè in male
Che l'anima lasso al giudice eternale.
E come tu avrai lavorato
Coesi hanc[101] sarai pagato.
2. Jesus crucified.
O peccator più non peccar non più
Che 'l tempo fuge et tu non te n'avedi.
De la tua morte che certeza ai tu?
Tu sei forsi alo stremo et non lo credi.
Deh ricorri col core al bon Jesù
Et del tuo fallo perdonanza chiedi
Vedi che in croce la sua testa inchina
Per abrazar l'anima tua meschina.
O peccatore pensa de costei
La me à morto mi che son signor di ley.
3. Death and the Pope.
O sumo pontifice de la cristiana fede
Christo è morto come se vede.
A ben che tu abia de San Piero el manto
Acceptar bisogna de la morte il guanto.
4. Death and a Cardinal.
In questo ballo ti cone[102] intrare
Li antecessor seguire et li successor lassare,
Poi che 'l nostro prim parente Adam è morto
Si che a te cardinale no te fazo torto.
5. Death and a Bishop.
Morte così fu ordinata
In ogni persona far la entrata.
Sì che episcopo mio jocondo
È giunto il tempo de arbandonar el mondo.
6. Death and a Priest.
O sacerdote mio riverendo
Danzar teco io me intendo
A ben che di Christo sei vicario
Mai la morte fa disvario.
7. Death and a Monk.
Buon partito pilgiasti o patre spirituale
A fuzer del mondo el pericoloso strale.
Per l'anima tua può esser alla sicura
Ma contra di me non avrai scriptura.
8. Death, carrying a tablet with the motto 'Pensa la fine,' seizes the
Emperor.
O cesario imperator vedi che li altri jace
Che a creatura umana la morte non à pace.
9. Death, with a banner 'Mors est ultima finis,' seizes a King.
Tu sei signor de gente e de paesi o corona regale
Ne altro teco porti che il bene e il male.
10. Death, with a banner 'Memorare novissima tua et in æternum non
peccabis,' leads off as to a dance a Queen.
In pace portarai gentil regina
Che ho per comandamento di non cambiar farina.
11. Death leads off a Duke.
O duca signor gentile
Gionta a te son col bref[103] sottile.
12. Death and a Doctor.
Non ti vale scientia ne dotrina
Contra de la morte non val medicina.
13. Death and a Soldier.
O tu homo gagliardo e forte
Niente vale l'arme tue contra la morte.
14. Death and the Miser.
O tu ricco nel numero deli avari
Che in tuo cambio la morte non vuol danari.
15. Death and a young Gallant.
De le vostre zoventù fidar no te vole
Però la morte chi lei vole tole.
16. Death, carrying a flag with the quotation--
_Tutti torniamo alla nostra madre antica
Che appena il nostro nome si ritrova--_
slightly altered from Petrarch, leads off a Beggar.
Non dimandar misericordia o poveretto zoppo
A la morte, che pietà non li da intopo.
17. Death and an Abbess.
Per fuzer li piazer mondani monica facta sei,
Ma da la sicura morte scapar no poi[104] da lei.
18. Death and a Lady. Verses illegible.
19. Death, with the motto 'Omnia fert ætas, perficit omnia tempus,'
drags along a struggling old woman. Verses illegible.
20. A little Death dancing with a child. In the centre a staff with two
scrolls: on one, 'Dum tempus habemus, operemur bonum;' on the other, 'A
far bene non dimora, Mentre hai tempo e l'hora.'
21. A winged Death, galloping on a white horse, with bow stretched
in act to shoot at the groups previously described. Inscriptions
illegible.
22. A square red shield with the lines--
Arcangelo Michel de l'anime difensore,
Intercede pro nobis al Creatore.
The archangel St. Michael with a bloody sword, and above him an angel
who holds in his hands on a cloth a beaming and beautiful soul. Beneath
is written--
Morte struzer non pol chi sempre vive.
23. A winged demon; above him the inscription 'Io seguito la morte
e questo mio guardeano, d'onde e scripto, li mali oprator chi meno
al inferno.' He carries on his back a large open volume, in which
are written the seven deadly sins. Beneath the 'Dance of Death' are
allegorical representations of the seven deadly sins and the date 1539.
FOOTNOTES:
[79] This word would, perhaps, point to a late date for the
inscription, but an error of one letter would make it read
'de Francis.'
[80] and [84] Brixiæ (?), if so Brescia.
[81] Calepio (?).
[82] This name of the valley survives in the Oglio (Ollius)
its river. The modern name Val Camonica is generally derived
from the Camuni, the tribe who formerly inhabited it.
[83] Esine.
[85] visulus = a vine.
[86] Braone.
[87] The name is preserved in the Val Mortirolo above Edolo.
Close by is the Motto Pagano.
[88] Monno.
[89] Davena.
[90] See _ante_.
[91] See last page.
[92] The Tonale.
[93] Pelizzano.
[94] Val di Sole.
[95] Moschera is said to be the name given in some old
chronicles to Campiglio, which gained its present name from
Charles' encampment on the broad meadows of the Ginevrie Alp.
The 'Trento' of Mariani is quoted as an authority for these
statements. It is worth noting that we find elsewhere the
names 'Campo' and 'Spinale' in close conjunction in Charles'
history. _Einhardi Annales edidit Pertz_, p. 52: 'in Vosego
silvâ ad patrem venit in loco qui dicitur Camp.' To which the
editor adds, 'Champ in Lotharingiâ villa parva prope Bruyere
ad rivum Velogne a septentrione Romarici montis et ab oriente
_Spinalii_ (Epinal).'
[96] Val Rendena.
[97] Pelugo.
[98] Brixiam (?).
[99] Sono.
[100] Morire.
[101] Anche.
[102] Bisogna.
[103] Lettera.
[104] Non puoi.
_APPENDIX E._
THE NOMENCLATURE OF THE BRENTA GROUP.
There has been much confusion of late years as to the names to be given
to the two highest summits of this range, which stand respectively N.
and S.W. of the Bocca di Brenta.
The old and very incorrect Government Map of Tyrol gives the name of
Cima Tosa to the N. peak, and none to the S. and highest. Mr. Ball,
the first mountaineer who explored this country, adhered, on his first
visit, to the name given by the Survey to the N. peak, and to the
S. gave the name of Cima di Brenta or Brenta Alta. Lieutenant Payer
followed Mr. Ball's example in his article on the Bocca di Brenta in
the fifth volume of the Austrian Alpine Club's Publication.
When, however, in 1865, Mr. Ball made from Molveno the first ascent of
the S. peak, he found that his guide, a native of that village, knew it
as 'La Tosa.' Mr. Ball therefore seemed in his last edition disposed
to give the collective name of Brenta to the chain, and to call the
S. peak the Cima Tosa; but he ignored the difficulty that the almost
equally important N. summit, hitherto known to chartographers and
English climbers as the Cima Tosa, was left nameless.
In this state of things the attention of the newly formed Trentine
Alpine Society was called to the subject, and they promptly appointed a
committee to inquire into and consider the local usage. The results of
this inquiry are now shortly stated.
The Val di Brenta gives its name to the group. The point S. of the
Bocca di Brenta is known as La Tosa throughout the country. The peak
N. of the Bocca (the Cima Tosa of the map) is called in Val Brenta the
Cima di Brenta. The following names are wrongly given in the Austrian
map:--Val Asinella for Vallesinella, Val Agnola for Val Agola, Val
Dalcon for Val d'Algone. The names Bocca di Vallazza, Bocca della
Vallesinella, Bocca dei Camozzi, and Passo d'Ambies, suggested for
the passes discovered of late years by English climbers, are, as I
understand, accepted. The Bocca della Vallesinella is the pass first
called Bocca di Tosa by Mr. Tuckett.
Some curious etymological details are added to the report. Tosa,
supposed by Mr. Ball to be equivalent to 'virgin,' is stated to be a
contraction of tosata = shaven, a title derived from the bald, rounded
aspect of the peak when seen from the east. 'Brenta' is a local word
in the Sarca valley for a shallow vessel used for soup in cottages:
thence it is applied to the stagnant pools or tarns common in the
dolomite glens. In this way the word gets attached to the glen itself,
and finally to the peak above it. Cima di Brenta is, it would seem,
therefore, the Italian equivalent for Kesselkogel.
There was one other quarter to which it was natural to look for
information--the officers at the head of the Viennese Ordnance
Survey Department, who have recently re-surveyed the Trentino. But
every application for information--although made to the Head of the
Department through influential Austrian friends, and in the name of
the English Alpine Club--was met by a refusal, or a promise broken as
soon as made. I finally sent an extract from the old Government Map,
with a request that the names adopted in the new survey for the two
chief peaks of the Brenta group might be written across it. Even this
the office declined to do. Such a refusal was the more unexpected as
the French and Swiss Engineers have always been ready to give every
information, even where there was real prospect of rivalry between the
private work in hand and the Government survey.
From photographs I have seen of some portions of the new map, I feel
sure that although much too large for general use it will be valuable
to explorers, and I recommend every mountaineer intending to visit the
Trentino or the Italian Tyrol to inquire through Messrs. Stanford if it
is yet out, and if possible to purchase the sheets he will require.
Time has not verified the official statement made in March last that
the sheets containing the Brenta group 'would be published in a few
days,' but they may probably be looked for within the next year or two.
If, when they appear, the nomenclature adopted proves different in any
way from that here given, General Dobner, the head of the Department,
will be alone to blame for any confusion to which the discrepancy
may give rise. I should have been glad to follow the authority of his
map; but the nomenclature I have used, coming as it does from the very
best local authorities, can scarcely, if the engineers have gone for
information to the same source, differ widely from theirs.
I have taken the heights in my map from the reductions from the
Kataster of Mr. Ball and from a table contained in the 'Annuario' for
1874 of the Trentine Alpine Society. The peaks are mostly derived from
the latter, the villages from the former authority.
I may mention here that I have been unable to adopt the heights given
for the Primiero peaks in the same 'Annuario.' The Cimon della Pala
is there set down as 3,550 metres = 11,647 feet, and the Palle di San
Martino as 2,953 metres = 9,688 feet. The first of these figures is as
much over as the other is under the mark. In the same list the height
of the Sass Maor is probably pretty correctly given as 10,656 feet, and
that of the C. della Rosetta as 10,266 feet.
_APPENDIX F._
TYROL v. TIROL.
I ought perhaps briefly to notice this lately raised question of
orthography, and to explain the grounds on which I decline to follow
the example set by two authoresses, who seem anxious to introduce
into our literature the confusion which already prevails in Germany as
to the correct spelling of the name of this province. If it could be
proved that 'Tirol' was the invariable local and German spelling, as
Miss Busk seems to fancy it is, there would at least be a good argument
for changing our present practice. But I am informed by a gentleman
living near Innsbruck that in the old histories he has consulted the
form used is 'Tyrol.' I have myself noted, during the last few weeks,
the spelling adopted in the German books I have had occasion to refer
to; and, so far from 'Tirol' being universal or 'Tyrol' obsolete, I
find the latter form preferred by Herr von Sonklar, Herr Liebeskind,
Herr Studer, Herr Siber Gysi, the late Professor Theobald, and the
'Alpenpost;' in a set of views published at Leipzig is one of 'Schloss
Tyrol,' and in another set published at Partenkirchen (Bavaria) the
'y' is also throughout adopted. In maps the balance of authority is
for 'Tyrol.' I may cite Anich and Huber's, 1774; Pfaundlers, 1783;
Schwatz's, 1795; Unterberger's Innsbruck, 1826; Artaria's, 1839; and
the 24-sheet Government map of the whole country. They can all be found
in one box (No. 21) in the Geographical Society's Map-room.
I do not of course question the fact that the spelling 'Tirol' is
now very frequently preferred abroad both in maps and books; but the
assertion that it is the more ancient form, and the one exclusively
sanctioned by local use, seems to be wholly unsupported by evidence.
[Illustration: GENERAL MAP to illustrate 'ITALIAN ALPS'
Edwd. Weller, F.R.G.S.
London, Longman & Co.]
INDEX.
(Appendix A is not indexed here.)
Adamello, 189, 212-218
Adamello Pass, 218
Adige, 173
Agordo, 288
Alle Sarche, 180
Albigna Glacier, 47
Albino, 367
Alpe di Caf, 166
---- di Ferro, 55
Alpine beauty, variety of, 339
---- Club, Italian, 144
---- geography, 136-137
---- views, 214-217
Alps, in poetry, 332
Alps, the, 91-93
Alzano Maggiore, 367
Aprica Pass, 156
Arco, 173
Art and the Alps, 336-338
Art, modern, 334-335
Averara, 368
Avers Thal, the, 44
Bad weather on the mountains, 21
Bagni del Masino, 57-60
Bagolino, 374
Baldino, 254
Barbellino Alp, 149
Basodine, the, 15-17
Bears, 113, 197
Bedole Alp, 210
Belvedere, the, 156
Bergamasque ranges, 130
Bergamasque valleys, pictures in, 141, 367
Bignasco, 6-10, 26; Inn at, 10
Boazze, 168
Bocca dei Camozzi, 252
---- di Brenta, 274
Bocca di Vallazza, 274
Bocchetta di Val Maggia, 18
Bondasca Glacier, 52, 76
Bondione, 148
Borzago Glacier, 224
Brenta Group, 236-239, 248; nomenclature of, 378
Brianza, 126
Brione, 31
Broglio, 12
Brusadaz, 314
Busk, Miss's, Valleys of Tirol, 375, 380
Cainallo Pass, 124
Campiglio, 239-247
Canobbio, 37
Carè Alto, 166, 174, 224-226, 264
Caresolo, 176
Casana, 109
Caspoggio, 11
Cassiglio, 131
Cavergno, 20
---- Glacier, the, 16
Cedegolo, 159-161
Cencenighe, 297
Cenedago, 272
Cevio, 4-5
Chamois, 112, 227, 251
Charlemagne, 232, 371
Chiareggio, 68
Chiese, 168
Cima del Largo, 77-79
---- della Rosetta, 295
---- di Brenta, 267-269
---- di Pape, 296
---- di Piazza, 108, 117
---- di Rosso, 67
---- di Tschingel, 81
Cima di Vezzana, 304
---- Pra dei Camozzi, 251
---- Tosa, 250, 275
Cimon della Pala, 304
Civetta, 310
Clusone, 367
Coi, 324
Comano, Baths of, 255
Cornelle Pass, 306
Cornello, 368
Corni del Confine, 227
Corno Alto, 234
---- dei Tre Confini, 150
---- di Lago Spalmo, 119
Coryat's Crudities, 133-140
Costonzella Pass, 284
Crozlina Alp, 21
Dalpe, 20
Dimaro, 261
Disgrazia, 43, 69
Dobner, General, 379
Dolomites, Swiss, 237
Dosdè Alp, 118
Dos di Sabione, 231
Dossena, 368
Eastern Alps, Hospices in, 240
Edolo, 157-158
Esino, 124
Faido, 20
Finero, 39
Fino, 368
Fiorano, 367
Flavona Alp, 269
Fluri, 78, 104
Fondra, 368
Forcella di Cedrino, 130
Forcella Gesurette, 289
Forest Laws, want of, 231, 282
Forno dei Canali, 297
Forno Glacier, 66
Fosine, 260
Fresine, 161
Fulmini di Brenta, 250
Fusio, 14
Gares, 296
Gavia Pass, the, 189-190
German smokers, 244
Ginevrie Pass, 263
Giudicaria, 169-170
Giustino, 177
Gorlago, 368
Grigna Panorama, 125-127
Grigna, the, 125, 128
Gromo, 147, 368
Grossotto, 120
Gutmann, 208-210
Il Piz, 287
Introbbio, 128-130
Isola, 161
Jenni, 113
Kastelhorn, 16
Kingsley's Prose Idylls, 329
Klosters, 95
Krimml, Falls of, 15
Kung, J., 113
Laghi di Colbricon, 284
Lago d'Arno, 163-164
---- d'Avio, 228
---- di Caf, 166
---- di Ledro, 171
---- di Tovello, 270
---- Maggiore, 35
---- Toblino, 180
La Lobbia, 212
Landquart, 94
La Rasica, 62, 72
Lavertezzo, 33
Lavin, 100
Lavinuoz, 100
Livigno District, the, 108
Lobbia Glacier, 226
Locarno, 36
Lombard Alps, 186-187
Lombardy, Plain of, 125
Loppé, M., 342-345
Madriser Pass, the, 45
---- Thal, 44
Maggia, the, 3
Malero, 89
Maloya Inn, 66
Mandron Glacier, 212, 227
Map, the Swiss, 24. Ziegler's, 119. Of Orteler, 369. Of Tyrol,
379-380
Menaggio, 121
Mezzoldo, 368
Missionary Societies, 245
Molveno, Inn at, 273
Montagne Aiguebelette, 135
Monte Agnaro, 288
---- Aralalta, 131
---- Aviolo, 157
---- Castellazzo, 283
---- Castello, 166
---- Cevedale, 369
---- della Disgrazia, 84-88
---- Folletto, 226
---- Frerone, 166
---- Gleno, 150-152
---- Redorta, 147
---- Rosa, view from, 186
---- Spinale, 264
---- Sissone, 64-65
---- Zembrasca, 117
Moroni, Pictures of, 367
Morstadt, Dr. Julius, 173
Mortaso, 176
Mountain beauty, 327-345
Mountaineering without guides, 300
Mountaineers, English and German, 183
Mountain haters, 329
Muretto Pass, 67
Nardis Glacier, 202
Nomenclature, Alpine, 188
Olera, 367
Olmo, 140
Oneta, 367
Orasso, 38
Packe, Mr., 322
Padernione, 180
Palle di San Lucano, 288
Paneveggio, Forest, 282. Hospice of, 283
Parre, 367
Passo d'Alleghe, 312
---- d'Ambies, 258
---- degli Orsi, 369
---- del Diavel, 113
---- della Preda Rossa, 88
---- delle Cornelle, 294
---- delle Malghette, 269
---- del Mandron, 227
---- di Bondo, 54, 73-75
---- di Cavento, 226
---- di Cercen, 203
---- di Dosdè, 119
---- di Ferro, 49-55
---- di Foscagno, 109
---- di Gornigo, 145-146
---- di Grostè, 269
---- di Mello, 68-72
---- di Monte Campo, 165
---- di Monte Sissone, 63-67
---- di Redorta, 29-30
---- di San Marco, 138
---- di Travignolo, 297-305
---- di Verva, 117
Pasturo, 128
Patocchi, Signor, 10
Payer, Lieutenant, 183, 203
Peccia, 13
Pejo, 260
Pelmo, 311. Ascent of, 314-321. A lady's ascent of, 322-324
Photographs, Mountain, 335
Piancaning, 67
Piazza, 140
Pico della Speranza, 64, 84
Pictures in Bergamasque Valleys, 367
Pieve di Buono, 169
---- di Ledro, 171
Pinzolo, 177, 229-235. Inn at, 234
Pisgana Pass, 190
Piz Cacciabella, 50
---- Campo Tencca, 21-27
---- Linard, 100
---- Lischanna, 103
---- Pisoc, 103
---- Quatervals, 112
Pizzano, 193
Pizzo della Mare, 214, 258, 369
---- della Venezia, 369
---- di Cocca, 150
---- Porcellizzo, 81
Plecken, Auf der, Hospice at, 246
Pontagna, 228
Ponte di Legno, 190
Pontresina guides, 86
Porcellizza Alp, 73
Pra Fiori, 178
Prätigau, the, 95-97
Presanella, 178, 189, 200-203
Presolana, 151
Primiero, 293
---- District, 280
---- Group, 290
---- Peaks, heights of, 379
Primiero, Roads to, 286
Promontogno, 48
Punta Trubinesca, 42, 50, 81-83. View from, 82
Rabbi, 260
Riva, 172
Roche Melon, 136
Rovetta, 368
San Carlo, 18, 26
---- Giuliano, 234
---- Lorenzo, 255
---- Martino, 56
---- Martino di Castrozza, 282, 285
---- Michele, 271
---- Nicolò, 312
---- Omobuono, 142
---- Pellegrino, 142
---- Stefano, 232, 370
---- Vigilio, 232, 375
Sarca, 172-173. Gorges of the, 174
Sardasca Alp, 96
Sass Maor, 286
Sasso Bisolo Glacier, 87
---- di Bosco Nero, 325
---- di Campo, 289
---- di Remeno, 80
---- Rosso, 262
Scarl Thal, 106
Schuls, 102
Schweizerführer, Herr Tschudi's, 104, 141
Serina in Val d'Ambria, 368
Serio, Falls of the, 148
Serneus, 96
Sils Maria, 67
Silvaplana, 79
Silvretta Ferner, 96
---- Pass, 98
Snow region, the, 23, 34
Societa Alpina of Trent, 186
Soglio, 45
Sondrio, 90
Sonogno, 31
Spaniards on Lago di Como, 137
Spor, 272
Stenico, 174, 180
Taleggio, 132
Taine, M., on the Pyrenees, 330
Tarasp, 100-102. Castle of, 102
Tavodo, 255
Theobald, Herr, 45
Tione, 175
Titian, 3
Tonale Hospice, 192
Tonale Pass, the, 191-193
Torre, 88
Tosa Falls, 15
Trabuchetto, 143
Trent, 181
Trentino, 305
Trescorre, 368
Tuckett, Mr., 62-63
Tyrol v. Tirol, 380
Val Ampola, 171
---- Bavona, 19-20
---- Belviso, 152
---- Bondasca, 49
---- Bregaglia, 46
---- Brembana, 141-143
---- Camonica, 156, 159
---- Canobbina, 38-39
---- Centovalli, 37
---- Cluoza, 109
---- Corteno, 157
---- d'Adame, 161
---- d'Agola, 253
---- d'Algone, 179
---- d'Ambies, 256-257
---- d'Angoraz, 289
---- Daone, 168
---- d'Avio, 228
---- dei Bagni, 56
---- del Diavel, 112
---- del Lago, 173
---- del Leno, 166
---- delle Seghe, 274
---- del Sasso, 112
---- d'Esino, 123-124
Val di Borzago, 176, 222
---- di Brenta, 236, 249-250
---- di Canale, 292
---- di Fum, 167-168, 226
---- di Genova, 204-207
---- di Malga, 159, 220
---- di Mello, 72, 84
---- di Non, 259
---- di Prato, 25-26
---- di Salarno, 161
---- di San Valentino, 176
---- di Scalve. 148, 151
---- di Sole, 259
---- di Spor, 272
---- di Zoldo, 300; people of, 325
---- d'Osola, 32
---- Grosina, 120
---- Imagna, 142
---- Lavizzara, 12-14
Valle di San Lucano, 288
Vallesinella, 236, 265
Valles Pass, 297
Val Livigno, 115-116
---- Maggia, 1-27; mountains of, 30
---- Maggians, 17
---- Malenco, 68, 88-89
---- Masino, 80; boulder in, 52; mountains of, 40-43
---- Miller, 219
---- Nambino, 236, 264
---- Nambrone, 236
---- Onsernone, 37
---- Paisco, 159
---- Presanella, 196-198
---- Presena, 193
---- Rendena, 175-177; churches of, 370-377
Val Saviore, 161-162
---- Selva, 262
---- Seriana, 147-148; glacier of, 150
---- Tellina, 89
---- Teresenga, 270
---- Torreggio, 88
---- Torta, 131-132
Val Torta, 131
Val Trupchum, 112
---- Livigno, 107
---- Vermolera, 120
---- Verzasca, 28-35; road in, 31
---- Viera, 114
---- Vigezzo, 40
---- Viola Poschiavina, 117
---- Zuort, 105
Varenna, 123
Venetian Tyrol, 308
Vereina Thal, 96
Vermiglio, 193
Verstankla Glacier, 98
Vezzano, 180
Vogorno, 34
Von Ruthner, Dr., 195
Vulpera, 102
Weilenmann, Herr, 99
Zandobbio, 368
Zernetz, 106
Zocca Pass, the, 47
Zogno, 142
Zuort Glacier, 105
Zutz, 79
LONDON: PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET
_By the same Author (1869)._
Uniform with 'Italian Alps,' with Three Maps, Two Panoramas of
Summits, Four full-page Engravings on Wood, and Sixteen Woodcuts
in the Text, in One Volume, price 18_s._
TRAVELS in CENTRAL CAUCASUS and BASHAN: including Visits to Ararat and
Tabreez, and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz.
Although the ethnology and history of the Caucasus have been
treated of by various authors, information concerning its natural
features had been up to the appearance of this volume scanty and
difficult of access; and until the Summer of 1868 no Englishman had
visited the most interesting of the chain, and its two most famous
summits, Kazbek and Elbruz, were still unascended. The chief aim
of the journey described in the present volume was to explore the
interior of the chain and to effect the ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz.
The Writer and his friends hoped by penetrating on foot the recesses of
the mountains to learn the form of the peaks, the extent of the snow-fields
and glaciers, and the character of the forest and flora, so as to be
able to draw a general comparison between the Caucasus and the Alps.
Before, however, carrying out this part of their design the travellers
made a rapid journey through Syria, in the course of which they visited
the Hauran and Lejah districts, recently brought into notice by the
supposed identification of the ruined towns still existing in them with
the cities of the gigantic Rephaim laid waste by the Israelites. The
Author records his conviction that this theory is unfounded, and that
the ruins of the so-called 'Giant Cities' are in fact composed of Roman
edifices mixed with many buildings of more recent date.
On landing in the Caucasus (which they reached by Russian steamer
from Constantinople) the travellers proceeded to Tiflis, whence they
made an expedition along the Persian high-road to Tabreez. On their
return they partially ascended Ararat, paid a visit to the Armenian
Patriarch at Etchmiadzin, and traversed a little-known portion of the
Georgian and Arminian highlands.
Starting from Tiflis at the end of June, the travellers spent the next
two months in mountain exploration. During this time they made the
first successful ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz, traversed eleven passes,
varying from 8,000 to 12,000 feet in height, and examined the sources
of eight rivers and both flanks of the main chain for a distance of 120
miles. The greater portion of the volume is occupied by the narrative
of their adventures in the mountains, and the difficulties arising both
from the roughness of the country and of its inhabitants. The Author
describes the Ossetes, a tribe known as 'the gentlemen of the Caucasus,'
and contrasts the slothful and churlish Mingrelian races on the south
side of the chain with the industrious and hospitable Tartars on the north.
Having crossed the main range by the Mamison Pass to the Rion
sources, the party made an expedition to the Uruch Valley and back
across the previously untrodden snow-fields of the central chain. The
travellers' route then led them through the pathless swamps and
forests of the Zenes-Squali into Suanetia, a mountain basin renowned
for the barbarism of its inhabitants, the extraordinary richness of its
vegetation, and the startling grandeur of the great peaks that overlook
it. After more than one narrow escape from robbery, if not from actual
violence, the Author and his companions passed along the valley to
Pari, a Russian post; whence they again crossed the chain to the foot
of Elbruz. Having ascended this mountain (18,520 feet), they proceeded
to Pätigorsk, the centre of the Russian watering-places in Ciscaucasia
and remarkable for the volume and variety of its mineral
springs.
Before returning to Tiflis by Vladikafkaz and the Dariel Pass, the
party explored the upper valleys of the Tcherek and Uruch, the
entrances of which are guarded by stupendous defiles far exceeding in
grandeur any Alpine gorges. The Tcherek has its source in the vast
glaciers flowing from the flanks of Koschtantau and Dychtau, two of
the most magnificent mountains of the range, which have hitherto
remained in undeserved obscurity.
The concluding pages are devoted to a comparison between the
Alps and the Caucasus, to a short account of a visit to the Crimea, and
the Author's homeward journey across Russia. It is hoped that this
record of travel and adventure amongst the mountain fastnesses of the
Caucasus may prove of sufficient interest to draw the attention of
Englishmen to a range surpassing the Alps by two thousand feet in the
average height of its peaks, abounding in noble scenery and picturesque
inhabitants, and even now within the reach of many 'long-vacation
tourists.'
The MAPS comprise a Route Map of the Hauran, the Caucasian
Provinces, and the Central Caucasus. The Map of the Central Caucasus
is reduced from the Five-Verst Map, executed by the Russian
Topographical Department at Tiflis, with many corrections suggested
by the experience of the writer and his fellow-travellers.
The full-page ILLUSTRATIONS are four views of Elbruz from the
North, Ararat, and Kazbek from the South, and as seen from the Post
Station.
The PANORAMAS show the Caucasus from Pätigorsk, and the
Koschtantau Group.
_List of the Woodcuts in the Text_:--
A Georgian Church
The Georgian Castle, Tiflis
Mountaineers in Armour
An Ossete Village
An Ossete
Peaks of Adai Khokh
Source of the Eastern Zenes-Squali
Our Camp-fire in the Forest
A Native of Jibiani
Tau Tötönal from above Latal
Uschba
Woman of Uruspieh
Peak in the Tcherek Valley
The Fortress of Dariel
The Grand Ducal Villa, Borjom
A Mingrelian Winejar
'We are delighted with Mr. FRESHFIELD'S book. The lovers of
mountain scenery will read his descriptions of peaks and passes with
unflagging interest, and their hearts will beat quickly as they read
of the adventures conducted with so much energy, perseverance, and
intelligence.'
LAND AND WATER.
'The book is written in a simple and manly style, and gives an
agreeable impression of the spirit in which the travellers carried out
their design.... We may congratulate Mr. Freshfield on having achieved
a much rarer feat than the ascent of mountains, that of recording his
performances in a thoroughly satisfactory manner.'
PALL MALL GAZETTE.
London, LONGMANS & CO.
* * * * * *
Transcriber's note:
Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. Inconsistent
spelling and hyphenation in the original document have been
preserved.