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TRAVELS
INTO
BOKHARA;
_&c. &c._
VOL. I.
LONDON:
Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE,
New-Street-Square.
[Illustration:
_Drawn by D. M^c. Clise._ _Engraved by E. Find._
_Costume of Bokhara_
London, Published 1834, by John Murray, Albemarle Street.]
TRAVELS
INTO
BOKHARA;
BEING THE ACCOUNT OF
A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY,
AND PERSIA;
ALSO, NARRATIVE OF
A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS,
FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE,
WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN;
PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT
OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833.
BY
LIEUT. ALEX^R BURNES, F.R.S.
OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE;
AS^T POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO
THE COURT of LAHORE.
----“Per syrtes iter æstuosas,
.... _per inhospitalem
Caucasum, vel quæ loca fabulosus
Lambit Hydaspes_.” HOR.
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
MDCCCXXXIV.
THESE
TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA
ARE INSCRIBED
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
LORD WILLIAM CAVENDISH BENTINCK, G.C.B.
GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA,
&c. &c. &c.
UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES
THEY WERE UNDERTAKEN AND PERFORMED,
BY
HIS LORDSHIP’S MOST OBEDIENT,
FAITHFUL SERVANT,
ALEX^R BURNES.
TO THE READER.
The following volumes contain the Narrative of my Voyage on the Indus,
and subsequent Journey into Bokhara. I have thrown the Journey into the
first two volumes, from its interest being, perhaps, greater than that
of the Voyage; and since the two subjects, though parts of a whole, are
distinct from each other.
LIST OF PLATES.
VOL. I.
Plate I. Costume of Bokhara, to face the title-page.
II. Colossal Idols at Bameean, to face page 183.
(_This is a double plate, and must be folded._)
VOL. II.
III. Bactrian and other Coins, to face page 455.
IV. Bactrian and other Coins, to face page 455.
VOL. III.
V. View of Hydrabad on the Indus, to face title-page.
VI. Natives of Cutch, to face page 9.
VII. Natives of Sinde, to face page 87.
VIII. View of Sindree, to face page 309.
N.B. Mr. John Arrowsmith’s Map, constructed expressly for this work, is
sold separately by all booksellers, price, in sheets 7_s._, in cover
7_s._ 6_d._, and in case 10_s._
ADVERTISEMENT
REGARDING
THE MAP OF CENTRAL ASIA AND THE INDUS.
On my return to Europe, I gave my original manuscript surveys,
protractions, and the whole of the observations which I had made
during a period of nine years, while employed in different surveys
throughout Asia, together with such other authentic documents as I
had collected, to Mr. John Arrowsmith.[1] He has embodied these in a
large and comprehensive map, to illustrate this work; combining, at the
same time, the latest and best information on the various countries
within the limits of the map. The task has been most laborious; but
the accuracy with which it has been performed will, I am sure, entitle
him to the high approbation of the public: since this map throws a
new light on the geography of this portion of the globe. It is due to
Mr. Arrowsmith to state, that this map has been engraved at his own
expense, and is now published, in the most public-spirited manner, at
his own risk.
London, June, 1834.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] No. 33. East Street, Red Lion Square.
PREFACE.
In the year 1831, I was deputed in a political capacity to the Court
of Lahore, charged with a letter from the King of England, and a
present of some horses, to the ruler of that country. The principal
object of my journey was to trace the course of the Indus; which had
only been crossed at particular points by former travellers, and had
never been surveyed but between Tatta and Hydrabad. My success in
this undertaking, which was attended with many difficulties, and the
sight of so many tribes hitherto little known, gave fresh strength to
a desire that I had always felt to see new countries, and visit the
conquests of Alexander. As the first European of modern times who had
navigated the Indus, I now found myself stimulated to extend my journey
beyond that river--the scene of romantic achievements which I had read
of in early youth with the most intense interest.
The design received the most liberal encouragement from the
Governor-general of India, Lord William Bentinck, whom I joined at
Simla, in the Himalaya Mountains, after the termination of my mission
to Lahore. His Lordship was of opinion that a knowledge of the general
condition of the countries through which I was to travel, would be
useful to the British Government, independent of other advantages which
might be expected from such a journey.
The hazardous nature of the expedition, and the mode in which it could
be best accomplished, required consideration. It would have been
objectionable, and highly imprudent, to have entered the countries
lying between India and Europe, as I had voyaged on the Indus, an
accredited agent; and I was directed to appear (which I myself had
suggested) as a private individual.
I was furnished with passports as a Captain in the British army
returning to Europe, drawn out in French, English, and Persian; and in
such terms as would satisfy the people of my real character; and show,
at the same time, that Government was interested in my good treatment.
Every other arrangement regarding the journey was left to myself; and
I received the sanction of the Governor-general to associate with me
Ensign John Leckie--a young officer of the most buoyant disposition,
who had been the companion of my voyage up the Indus. On the eve of
departure, my fellow-traveller was recalled by the Government of
Bombay. Believing that his place might be well supplied by a medical
gentleman, which I thought would facilitate our progress through
such countries, I prevailed on Mr. James Gerard, a Surgeon of the
Bengal army, to accompany me. That gentleman had passed most of his
life in India, in traversing the Himalaya regions; and possessed an
ardent desire for travel. I was also attended by a native Surveyor,
Mahommed Ali, a public servant, who had been educated in the Engineer
Institution of Bombay, under Captain G. Jervis, of the Engineers;
and who had entitled himself to my utmost confidence by faithful
and devoted conduct on many trying occasions during the voyage to
Lahore.[2] I also took a Hindoo lad, of Cashmere family, named Mohun
Lal, who had been educated at the English Institution at Delhi, as he
would assist me in my Persian correspondence; the forms of which amount
to a science in the East. His youth and his creed would, I believed,
free me from all danger of his entering into intrigues with the people;
and both he and the Surveyor proved themselves to be zealous and
trustworthy men, devoted to our interests. Being natives, they could
detach themselves from us; and, by reducing our retinue, maintain our
character for poverty, which I ever considered our best safeguard. We
discharged the whole of our Indian servants but one individual, Ghoolam
Hoosn, who demands my lasting gratitude for the hardships which he
underwent on my account, and who is yet my faithful servant.
From the time I resolved to traverse the countries that lie between
India and the Caspian, I determined to retain the character of a
European, accommodating myself in dress, habits, and customs, to
those with whom I should mingle. The sequel has proved that the
design had much to recommend it, though the character involved us in
some difficulties. I adopted the resolution, however, in an utter
hopelessness of supporting the disguise of a native; and from having
observed that no European traveller has ever journeyed in such
countries without suspicion, and seldom without discovery. From long
intercourse with Asiatics, I had acquired some insight into their
character, and possessed at the same time a fair colloquial knowledge
of the Persian language, the _lingua franca_ of the people I should
meet. I did not, then, hesitate to appear among them in their own garb,
and avow myself a foreigner. By all the accounts which I collected, it
did not appear to me that there was any just cause for apprehending
personal injury or danger; but I received little consolation from my
friends in India, who referred to the fate of our predecessors, poor
Moorcroft and his party, as our inevitable lot. I trust, however, that
the happy termination of this journey will give a more favourable
impression of the Asiatic character, and stimulate others (which I
shall consider a high reward) to view and visit these lands.
Such is a brief detail of the circumstances which led me into these
countries; the manner in which I have performed my task must be decided
by the public. I have to solicit much indulgence, in the perusal of my
book; I have had no assistance in its composition, and my career in
the East has been one of constant employment. I am, however, deeply
indebted to the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, the late Governor of
Bombay, for his advice in preparing for the press; and by which I
have not failed to profit. If I had to congratulate myself on having
reached my native shores in safety, I consider my good fortune great
indeed, to have met a gentleman so eminently qualified to give me
counsel. The aversion to display, for which Mr. Elphinstone is so
distinguished, alone prevents my enlarging on this subject.
From Mr. James Bailie Fraser, the well-known author of the Kuzzilbash,
and my esteemed friend and brother officer, Lieut. G. L. Jacob, of the
Bombay army, I have received some judicious hints. To Mr. Horace Hayman
Wilson, Sanscrit Professor in the University of Oxford, and Mr. James
Prinsep, Secretary of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, my acknowledgments
are due for illustrating my collection of coins: the notes of these
gentlemen will speak for themselves.
To Captain R. M. Grindlay, author of a series of Views of Western
India, I am indebted for most of the illustrations, which do ample
credit to his talents and pencil. To my brother, Dr. David Burnes, who
has assisted me in the laborious task of correcting the press, I offer
my best thanks; which, I think, completes the whole of my obligations.
I have now only to express an anxious hope, that my fellow traveller,
Dr. Gerard, who has not yet reached India, may soon be restored to his
friends, to share in the approbation which has been bestowed, I fear
too liberally, upon myself.
ALEX^R BURNES.
_London, June, 1834._
FOOTNOTE:
[2] I have now to deplore, with the sincerest sorrow, the death of
this worthy man. His fate was indeed cruel: he passed safely through
the deserts and dangers of Tartary, and now moulders at Vellore, where
he died of cholera, while accompanying me to Calcutta. A generous
Government have not forgotten his merits: his widow has been liberally
pensioned, his family has been provided for, and his sons, on their
attaining a certain age, will be admitted into the public service. This
well-timed bounty has not passed unnoticed by the Indian community. I
observe it mentioned in a Bengal newspaper, edited by a native, who
calls upon his countrymen on that side of India to emulate such a
career, and see that they are not left behind those at Bombay in mental
advancement.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
LAHORE.
Page
Departure from Delhi.--Communication from Runjeet
Sing.--Himalaya.--Villages on the Sutlege: People.--Banks
of the Sutlege.--Physical Phenomena of Rivers.--Altars of
Alexander.--Enter the Punjab.--Our Welcome chanted.--Civilities
at Hurree.--Seik Fanatics.--Manja; country so called.--Antient
Canals.--Town of Puttee.--Stud of Horses at Puttee.--An Acali,
or Fanatic.--A Seik Chief and his Castle.--Famous Road of
Juhangeer.--Enter Lahore.--Visit the Maharaja.--Earthquake
at Lahore.--Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.--Description
of his Camp.--Runjeet Sing marching.--Conversations of
Runjeet Sing.--Superb Cashmere Tents.--A Visit from the
Physician-general.--Runjeet Sing sporting.--Conversations of
Runjeet Sing.--Return to Lahore.--Festival of the Busunt, or
Spring.--Entertainment by the Maharaja.--Preparations for our
Journey.--Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.--Audience of
Leave.--Mons. Court’s Instructions 1-38
CHAP. II.
ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.
Quit Lahore.--Reduction of Baggage.--Arrangements.--Garden
described.--Himalaya.--Reach the Chenab or Acesines.--Soil
and Wells.--Sugar.--A Seik Chief.--Seiks: Peculiarities of
the Tribe.--Cross the Chenab.--Diseases: Opinions regarding
them.--Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.--Arrival at Pind Dadun
Khan.--Antiquities.--Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.--Position
of the Salt Range.--Formation, &c.--Mines, Strata,
Temperature.--Manner of working the Salt.--Its Quality.--Supply
of the Mineral.--Banks of the Hydaspes.--Villages.--Scene
of Porus’s Battle.--Extensive Ruins.--Speculations.--Nicæ
and Bucephalia.--Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet
Sing’s.--Floating Islands.--Costume of the Ladies.--Arrival
at Rotas.--Fortress.--Nature and Formation of Rocks.--Tope of
Manikyala.--Coins and Antiques.--Manikyala identified with
Taxilla.--Rawil Pindee.--Marks of quitting India.--Hurdwar
Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.--Seik Priest.--Pass
of Margulla.--Tope of Belur.--Garden of Hoosn Abdall.--See
the Indus.--Encamp on the Indus.--Ford it.--Story of a
Soldier.--Attok.--Phenomenon at Attok.--Washing Gold 39-80
CHAP. III.
PESHAWUR.
Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.--Precautionary
Arrangements.--Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.--Salt
Monopoly.--Fields of Battle.--Entrance into Peshawur.--Afghan
Entertainment.--Visitors.--Ride out with the Chief.--His
Character.--Afghan manner of spending Friday.--Horrible
Spectacle.--Brother of the Chief.--Arrangements for our
Advance.--The Chief and his Court.--Visitors.--Juvenile
Intelligence.--Rambles in Peshawur.--Quail
fighting.--Hawking.--Moollah Nujeeb.--A Saint.--Disadvantages
of giving Medicine.--Antiquities.--Conclusions regarding the
“Topes.”--Preparations for Departure.--Maître d’Hôtel of the
Chief 81-111
CHAP. IV.
JOURNEY TO CABOOL.
Departure from Peshawur.--Khyberees.--Passage of
the Cabool River.--Caravan.--Scene in the Cabool
River.--Mountains.--Formation of the Hills.--Interview with a
Momund Chief.--Civility of a Khyberee.--Incident.--Pestilential
Wind.--Antiquities.--Julalabad.--Snowy
Mountains.--Bala-bagh.--Treatment by the
People.--Gundamuk.--Cold Countries.--Neemla.--Manner of keeping
Horses.--Jugduluk.--Post-houses of the Emperors.--Wandering
Ghiljees.--Pastoral Scenes.--Ispahan.--Story of Futtih
Khan.--Pass of Luta-bund.--Arrival in Cabool.--Our Conductor,
Mahommed Shureeff 112-132
CHAP. V.
CABOOL.
Arrival of Mr. Wolff.--Nawab Jubbar Khan.--Introduction to
the Chief of Cabool.--Conversations.--Tomb of the Emperor
Baber.--Prospect.--Intercourse with the People.--Cabool; its
Bazars.--Traditions.--Coins.--Armenians.--Entertainment.--Gardens
of Cabool.--Fruits and Wines.--Bala Hissar, or
Prison.--Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.--Eed,
or Festival.--Tomb of Timour Shah.--Alchymy and
Minerals.--Freemasonry.--Jewish Origin of the Afghans;
Opinions regarding it.--Party.--The Kaffirs, a singular
People.--Preparations.--Shikarpooree Merchants.--Money
Arrangements.--Civilisation by Commerce 133-170
CHAP. VI.
JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.
Quit Cabool.--Cafila-bashee.--Contraband
Korans.--Julraiz.--Valley of the Cabool River.--Fish
Preserve.--Ghuzni.--Pass of Oonna.--Effects of Snow.--Family
of Huzaras.--Goître.--Ali Illahi.--Yezdan Buksh Huzara.--Pass
of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.--Mountain Scenery.--Bameean excavated
City.--Idols of Bameean.--Geographical Errors.--Leave
Afghanistan.--Uzbek Chief of Syghan.--Feelings on entering
Tartary.--Pass of Dundan Shikun.--Ruhmut oollah Khan.--Uzbek
Pity.--Mahommedan Law.--Companions.--Asiatic Opinions of
Europe.--Pass of Kara Koottul.--Adventures.--Life of a
Traveller.--Modes of Salutation.--Tremendous Defiles.--Poisonous
Plant.--Heibuk reptiles.--Houses.--People.--Khooloom and Plains
of Tartary 171-206
CHAP. VII.
SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.--JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.
Difficulties at Khooloom.--Sketch of Moorcroft’s
disasters.--Departure for Koondooz.--Favourable
Opportunity for escape.--Night Adventure.--My Account of
myself.--Imbecility of our Conductor.--Visiters, manner of
Tea-drinking.--Traditions of Alexander the Great.--Interview
with the Chief of Koondooz.--Incidents illustrative of Uzbek
Character.--Koondooz; its Chief.--Departure from Koondooz.--Quit
Khooloom.--Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.--Dangers of the
Road to Balkh.--Mirage.--Muzar.--Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.--Arrival
at Balkh.--Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee 207-236
CHAP. VIII.
BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.
Description of Balkh.--Climate.--Coins found at
Balkh.--Cafila-bashee.--Grave of Mr. Moorcroft.--Quit
Balkh.--Ancient Bactriana.--Correctness of Quintus
Curtius.--Desert of the Toorkmuns.--Reach the Oxus.--Singular
manner of crossing it.--The Caravan.--Kiz Kooduk.--A
Khwaju.--Literature.--Amazons of Lakay.--Kirkinjuk.--A
Slave.--Knotty Points.--Snowy Mountains.--Kurshee.--Sickness
of our Party.--Alarms of a Traveller.--Letter
to the Minister of Bokhara.--Kurshee.--Market
at Karsan.--Uzbeks.--Abdoolla Khan; his
Munificence.--Acquaintances.--Fatigues.--Reflections.--Arrival
in Bokhara 237-266
CHAP. IX.
BOKHARA.
Change of Dress.--Visit the Minister.--Suspicions regarding
us.--Description of the Registan, or great Bazar of
Bokhara.--Employments in the Bazar.--Society at Bokhara.--Slave
Bazar at Bokhara.--Offenders against Mahommedanism.--Hindoos.--A
Wanderer.--An Indian Sepoy.--A pretty Fair One.--Costume.--Baths
of Bokhara.--Interview with the Minister.--The King.--Life of a
King.--Russian Slaves.--Acquaintances at Bokhara 267-299
CHAP. X.
BOKHARA.
The City of Bokhara.--Historical Sketch of it.--Colleges of
Bokhara.--Rigour of Mahommedanism.--Literature of Central
Asia.--Interview with the Vizier.--Samarcand.--Tomb of Bhawa
Deen.--An Ancient City, Coins, &c.--An Uzbek Family.--Bokhara
on Friday.--Arrangements.--Farewell Visit to the
Vizier.--Departure 300-329
CHAP. XI.
DETENTION IN THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA.
Detention of the Caravan.--Assemblage of
Merchants.--Country between Bokhara and the
Oxus.--Intercourse with the Toorkmuns.--A Toorkmun
Acquaintance.--Ersaree Toorkmuns.--Slavery in
Toorkistan.--Fellow-travellers.--Music.--Our own Party.--Ruins
of Bykund.--Alexander’s Marches.--Reply from the Khan of
Orgunje.--Uzbek Customs.--Preparations for Departure.--Receive
Letters from India.--Reflections 330-356
NARRATIVE.