CHAPTER IV

An account of the religion of the Abyssins.

Yet though there is a great difference between our manners, customs,

civil government, and those of the Abyssins, there is yet a much greater

in points of faith; for so many errors have been introduced and ingrafted

into their religion, by their ignorance, their separation from the

Catholic Church, and their intercourse with Jews, Pagans, and

Mohammedans, that their present religion is nothing but a kind of

confused miscellany of Jewish and Mohammedan superstitions, with which

they have corrupted those remnants of Christianity which they still

retain.

They have, however, preserved the belief of our principal mysteries; they

celebrate with a great deal of piety the passion of our Lord; they

reverence the cross; they pay a great devotion to the Blessed Virgin, the

angels, and the saints; they observe the festivals, and pay a strict

regard to the Sunday. Every month they commemorate the assumption of the

Virgin Mary, and are of opinion that no Christians beside themselves have

a true sense of the greatness of the mother of God, or pay her the

honours that are due to her. There are some tribes amongst them (for

they are distinguished like the Jews by their tribes), among whom the

crime of swearing by the name of the Virgin is punished with forfeiture

of goods and even with loss of life; they are equally scrupulous of

swearing by St. George. Every week they keep a feast to the honour of

the apostles and angels; they come to mass with great devotion, and love

to hear the word of God. They receive the sacrament often, but do not

always prepare themselves by confession. Their charity to the poor may

be said to exceed the proper bounds that prudence ought to set it, for it

contributes to encourage great numbers of beggars, which are a great

annoyance to the whole kingdom, and as I have often said, afford more

exercise to a Christian's patience than his charity; for their insolence

is such, that they will refuse what is offered them if it be not so much

as they think proper to ask.

Though the Abyssins have not many images, they have great numbers of

pictures, and perhaps pay them somewhat too high a degree of worship. The

severity of their fasts is equal to that of the primitive church. In

Lent they never eat till after sunset; their fasts are the more severe

because milk and butter are forbidden them, and no reason or necessity

whatsoever can procure them a permission to eat meat, and their country

affording no fish, they live only on roots and pulse. On fast-days they

never drink but at their meat, and the priests never communicate till

evening, for fear of profaning them. They do not think themselves

obliged to fast till they have children either married or fit to be

married, which yet doth not secure them very long from these

mortifications, because their youths marry at the age of ten years, and

their girls younger.

There is no nation where excommunication carries greater terrors than

among the Abyssins, which puts it in the power of the priests to abuse

this religious temper of the people, as well as the authority they

receive from it, by excommunicating them, as they often do, for the least

trifle in which their interest is concerned.

No country in the world is so full of churches, monasteries, and

ecclesiastics as Abyssinia; it is not possible to sing in one church or

monastery without being heard by another, and perhaps by several. They

sing the psalms of David, of which, as well as the other parts of the

Holy Scriptures, they have a very exact translation in their own

language; in which, though accounted canonical, the books of the

Maccabees are omitted. The instruments of music made use of in their

rites of worship are little drums, which they hang about their necks, and

beat with both their hands; these are carried even by their chief men,

and by the gravest of their ecclesiastics. They have sticks likewise,

with which they strike the ground, accompanying the blow with a motion of

their whole bodies. They begin their concert by stamping their feet on

the ground, and playing gently on their instruments; but when they have

heated themselves by degrees, they leave off drumming, and fall to

leaping, dancing, and clapping their hands, at the same time straining

their voices to the utmost pitch, till at length they have no regard

either to the tune or the pauses, and seem rather a riotous than a

religious assembly. For this manner of worship they cite the psalm of

David, "O clap your hands all ye nations." Thus they misapply the sacred

writings to defend practices yet more corrupt than those I have been

speaking of.

They are possessed with a strange notion that they are the only true

Christians in the world; as for us, they shunned us as heretics, and were

under the greatest surprise at hearing us mention the Virgin Mary with

the respect which is due to her, and told us that we could not be

entirely barbarians since we were acquainted with the mother of God. It

plainly appears that prepossessions so strong, which receive more

strength from the ignorance of the people, have very little tendency to

dispose them to a reunion with the Catholic Church.

They have some opinions peculiar to themselves about purgatory, the

creation of souls, and some of our mysteries. They repeat baptism every

year, they retain the practice of circumcision, they observe the Sabbath,

they abstain from all those sorts of flesh which are forbidden by the

law. Brothers espouse the wives of their brothers, and to conclude, they

observe a great number of Jewish ceremonies.

Though they know the words which Jesus Christ appointed to be used in the

administration of baptism, they have without scruple substituted others

in their place, which makes the validity of their baptism, and the

reality of their Christianity, very doubtful. They have a few names of

saints, the same with those in the Roman martyrology, but they often

insert others, as Zama la Cota, the Life of Truth; Ongulari, the

Evangelist; Asca Georgi, the Mouth of Saint George.

To bring back this people into the enclosure of the Catholic Church, from

which they have been separated so many ages, was the sole view and

intention with which we undertook so long and toilsome a journey, crossed

so many seas, and passed so many deserts, with the utmost hazard of our

lives; I am certain that we travelled more than seven thousand leagues

before we arrived at our residence at Fremona.

We came to this place, anciently called Maigoga, on the 21st of June, as

I have said before, and were obliged to continue there till November,

because the winter begins here in May, and its greatest rigour is from

the middle of June to the middle of September. The rains that are almost

continually falling in this season make it impossible to go far from

home, for the rivers overflow their banks, and therefore, in a place like

this, where there are neither bridges nor boats, are, if they are not

fordable, utterly impassable. Some, indeed, have crossed them by means

of a cord fastened on both sides of the water, others tie two beams

together, and placing themselves upon them, guide them as well as they

can, but this experiment is so dangerous that it hath cost many of these

bold adventurers their lives. This is not all the danger, for there is

yet more to be apprehended from the unwholesomeness of the air, and the

vapours which arise from the scorched earth at the fall of the first

showers, than from the torrents and rivers. Even they who shelter

themselves in houses find great difficulty to avoid the diseases that

proceed from the noxious qualities of these vapours. From the beginning

of June to that of September it rains more or less every day. The

morning is generally fair and bright, but about two hours after noon the

sky is clouded, and immediately succeeds a violent storm, with thunder

and lightning flashing in the most dreadful manner. While this lasts,

which is commonly three or four hours, none go out of doors. The

ploughman upon the first appearance of it unyokes his oxen, and betakes

himself with them into covert. Travellers provide for their security in

the neighbouring villages, or set up their tents, everybody flies to some

shelter, as well to avoid the unwholesomeness as the violence of the

rain. The thunder is astonishing, and the lightning often destroys great

numbers, a thing I can speak of from my own experience, for it once

flashed so near me, that I felt an uneasiness on that side for a long

time after; at the same time it killed three young children, and having

run round my room went out, and killed a man and woman three hundred

paces off. When the storm is over the sun shines out as before, and one

would not imagine it had rained, but that the ground appears deluged.

Thus passes the Abyssinian winter, a dreadful season, in which the whole

kingdom languishes with numberless diseases, an affliction which, however

grievous, is yet equalled by the clouds of grasshoppers, which fly in

such numbers from the desert, that the sun is hid and the sky darkened;

whenever this plague appears, nothing is seen through the whole region

but the most ghastly consternation, or heard but the most piercing

lamentations, for wherever they fall, that unhappy place is laid waste

and ruined; they leave not one blade of grass, nor any hopes of a

harvest.

God, who often makes calamities subservient to His will, permitted this

very affliction to be the cause of the conversion of many of the natives,

who might have otherwise died in their errors; for part of the country

being ruined by the grasshoppers that year in which we arrived at

Abyssinia, many, who were forced to leave their habitations, and seek the

necessaries of life in other places, came to that part of the land where

some of our missionaries were preaching, and laid hold on that mercy

which God seemed to have appointed for others.

As we could not go to court before November, we resolved, that we might

not be idle, to preach and instruct the people in the country; in

pursuance of this resolution I was sent to a mountain, two days' journey

distant from Maigoga. The lord or governor of the place was a Catholic,

and had desired missionaries, but his wife had conceived an implacable

aversion both from us and the Roman Church, and almost all the

inhabitants of that mountain were infected with the same prejudices as

she. They had been persuaded that the hosts which we consecrated and

gave to the communicants were mixed with juices strained from the flesh

of a camel, a dog, a hare, and a swine; all creatures which the Abyssins

look upon with abhorrence, believing them unclean, and forbidden to them,

as they were to the Jews. We had no way of undeceiving them, and they

fled from us whenever we approached. We carried with us our tent, our

chalices, and ornaments, and all that was necessary for saying mass. The

lord of the village, who, like other persons of quality throughout

AEthiopia, lived on the top of a mountain, received us with very great

civility. All that depended upon him had built their huts round about

him; so that this place compared with the other towns of Abyssinia seems

considerable; as soon as we arrived he sent us his compliments, with a

present of a cow, which, among them, is a token of high respect. We had

no way of returning this favour but by killing the cow, and sending a

quarter smoking, with the gall, which amongst them is esteemed the most

delicate part. I imagined for some time that the gall of animals was

less bitter in this country than elsewhere, but upon tasting it, I found

it more; and yet have frequently seen our servants drink large glasses of

if with the same pleasure that we drink the most delicious wines.

We chose to begin our mission with the lady of the village, and hoped

that her prejudice and obstinacy, however great, would in time yield to

the advice and example of her husband, and that her conversion would have

a great influence on the whole village, but having lost several days

without being able to prevail upon her to hear us on any one point, we

left the place, and went to another mountain, higher and better peopled.

When we came to the village on the top of it, where the lord lived, we

were surprised with the cries and lamentations of men that seemed to

suffer or apprehend some dreadful calamity; and were told, upon inquiring

the cause, that the inhabitants had been persuaded that we were the

devil's missionaries, who came to seduce them from the true religion,

that foreseeing some of their neighbours would be ruined by the

temptation, they were lamenting the misfortune which was coming upon

them. When we began to apply ourselves to the work of the mission we

could not by any means persuade any but the lord and the priest to

receive us into their houses; the rest were rough and untractable to that

degree that, after having converted six, we despaired of making any

farther progress, and thought it best to remove to other towns where we

might be better received.

We found, however, a more unpleasing treatment at the next place, and had

certainly ended our lives there had we not been protected by the governor

and the priest, who, though not reconciled to the Roman Church, yet

showed us the utmost civility; the governor informed us of a design

against our lives, and advised us not to go out after sunset, and gave us

guards to protect us from the insults of the populace.

We made no long stay in a place where they stopped their ears against the

voice of God, but returned to the foot of that mountain which we had left

some days before; we were surrounded, as soon as we began to preach, with

a multitude of auditors, who came either in expectation of being

instructed, or from a desire of gratifying their curiosity, and God

bestowed such a blessing upon our apostolical labours that the whole

village was converted in a short time. We then removed to another at the

middle of the mountain, situated in a kind of natural parterre, or

garden; the soil was fruitful, and the trees that shaded it from the

scorching heat of the sun gave it an agreeable and refreshing coolness.

We had here the convenience of improving the ardour and piety of our new

converts, and, at the same time, of leading more into the way of the true

religion: and indeed our success exceeded the utmost of our hopes; we had

in a short time great numbers whom we thought capable of being admitted

to the sacraments of baptism and the mass.

We erected our tent, and placed our altar under some great trees, for the

benefit of the shade; and every day before sun-rising my companion and I

began to catechise and instruct these new Catholics, and used our utmost

endeavours to make them abjure their errors. When we were weary with

speaking, we placed in ranks those who were sufficiently instructed, and

passing through them with great vessels of water, baptised them according

to the form prescribed by the Church. As their number was very great, we

cried aloud, those of this rank are named Peter, those of that rank

Anthony. And did the same amongst the women, whom we separated from the

men. We then confessed them, and admitted them to the communion. After

mass we applied ourselves again to catechise, to instruct, and receive

the renunciation of their errors, scarce allowing ourselves time to make

a scanty meal, which we never did more than once a day.

After some time had been spent here, we removed to another town not far

distant, and continued the same practice. Here I was accosted one day by

an inhabitant of that place, where he had found the people so prejudiced

against us, who desired to be admitted to confession. I could not

forbear asking him some questions about those lamentations, which we

heard upon our entering into that place. He confessed with the utmost

frankness and ingenuity that the priests and religious have given

dreadful accounts both of us and of the religion we preached; that the

unhappy people were taught by them that the curse of God attended us

wheresoever we went; that we were always followed by the grasshoppers,

that pest of Abyssinia, which carried famine and destruction over all the

country; that he, seeing no grasshoppers following us when we passed by

their village, began to doubt of the reality of what the priests had so

confidently asserted, and was now convinced that the representation they

made of us was calumny and imposture. This discourse gave us double

pleasure, both as it proved that God had confuted the accusations of our

enemies, and defended us against their malice without any efforts of our

own, and that the people who had shunned us with the strongest

detestation were yet lovers of truth, and came to us on their own accord.

Nothing could be more grossly absurd than the reproaches which the

Abyssinian ecclesiastics aspersed us and our religion with. They had

taken advantage of the calamity that happened the year of our arrival:

and the Abyssins, with all their wit, did not consider that they had

often been distressed by the grasshoppers before there came any Jesuits

into the country, and indeed before there were any in the world.

Whilst I was in these mountains, I went on Sundays and saints' days

sometimes to one church and sometimes to another. One day I went out

with a resolution not to go to a certain church, where I imagined there

was no occasion for me, but before I had gone far, I found myself pressed

by a secret impulse to return back to that same church. I obeyed the

influence, and discovered it to proceed from the mercy of God to three

young children who were destitute of all succour, and at the point of

death. I found two very quickly in this miserable state; the mother had

retired to some distance that she might not see them die, and when she

saw me stop, came and told me that they had been obliged by want to leave

the town they lived in, and were at length reduced to this dismal

condition, that she had been baptised, but that the children had not.

After I had baptised and relieved them, I continued my walk, reflecting

with wonder on the mercy of God, and about evening discovered another

infant, whose mother, evidently a Catholic, cried out to me to save her

child, or at least that if I could not preserve this uncertain and

perishable life, I should give it another certain and permanent. I sent

my servant to fetch water with the utmost expedition, for there was none

near, and happily baptised the child before it expired.

Soon after this I returned to Fremona, and had great hopes of

accompanying the patriarch to the court; but, when we were almost setting

out, received the command of the superior of the mission to stay at

Fremona, with a charge of the house there, and of all the Catholics that

were dispersed over the kingdom of Tigre, an employment very

ill-proportioned to my abilities. The house at Fremona has always been

much regarded even by those emperors who persecuted us; Sultan Segued

annexed nine large manors to it for ever, which did not make us much more

wealthy, because of the expensive hospitality which the great conflux of

strangers obliged us to. The lands in Abyssinia yield but small

revenues, unless the owners themselves set the value upon them, which we

could not do.

The manner of letting farms in Abyssinia differs much from that of other

countries: the farmer, when the harvest is almost ripe, invites the chumo

or steward, who is appointed to make an estimate of the value of each

year's product, to his house, entertains him in the most agreeable manner

he can; makes him a present, and then takes him to see his corn. If the

chumo is pleased with the treat and present, he will give him a

declaration or writing to witness that his ground, which afforded five or

six sacks of corn, did you yield so many bushels, and even of this it is

the custom to abate something; so that our revenue did not increase in

proportion to our lands; and we found ourselves often obliged to buy

corn, which, indeed, is not dear, for in fruitful years forty or fifty

measures, weighing each about twenty-two pounds, may be purchased for a

crown.

Besides the particular charge I had of the house of Fremona, I was

appointed the patriarch's grand-vicar through the whole kingdom of Tigre.

I thought that to discharge this office as I ought, it was incumbent on

me to provide necessaries as well for the bodies as the souls of the

converted Catholics. This labour was much increased by the famine which

the grasshoppers had brought that year upon the country. Our house was

perpetually surrounded by some of those unhappy people, whom want had

compelled to abandon their habitations, and whose pale cheeks and meagre

bodies were undeniable proofs of their misery and distress. All the

relief I could possibly afford them could not prevent the death of such

numbers that their bodies filled the highways; and to increase our

affliction, the wolves having devoured the carcases, and finding no other

food, fell upon the living; their natural fierceness being so increased

by hunger, that they dragged the children out of the very houses. I saw

myself a troop of wolves tear a child of six years old in pieces before I

or any one else could come to its assistance.

While I was entirely taken up with the duties of my ministry, the viceroy

of Tigre received the commands of the Emperor to search for the bones of

Don Christopher de Gama. On this occasion it may not be thought

impertinent to give some account of the life and death of this brave and

holy Portuguese, who, after having been successful in many battles, fell

at last into the hands of the Moors, and completed that illustrious life

by a glorious martyrdom.

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