CHAPTER XXXIV

EAST OF STATE STREET

I had in due time heard from Orlean saying she and Mrs. Ewis had arrived

safely home. She wrote: "When I came into the house mama grabbed me and

held me for a long time as though she was afraid I was not real. She had

been so worried while I was away and was so glad I had returned before

father came." They had received a telegram from her father saying that

he had again been appointed presiding elder of the Cairo district and

would be home within a few days.

I judged from what Mrs. Ewis had told me that the Reverend was not much

of a business man and a hard one to make understand a business

proposition or to reason with. He had only two children, and Orlean, as

Mrs. Ewis informed me, was his favorite. She had always been an obedient

girl, was graduated from the Chicago high school and spent two years at

a colored boarding school in Ohio that was kept up by the African M.E.

Church, had taught two years, but had not secured a school that year.

She had saved a hundred dollars out of the money she had earned teaching

school. The young man who married her sister worked for a trading-stamp

corporation and received thirteen dollars a week, while the Reverend was

supposed to receive about a thousand dollars a year as presiding elder.

There were some twelve or fifteen churches on his circuit, where

quarterly conference was held every three months, and each church was

expected to contribute a certain amount at that time. Each member was

supposed to give twenty-five cents, which they did not always do.

In a town like M--boro, for instance, where the church had one hundred

members, not over twenty-five are considered live members; that is, only

twenty-five could be depended upon to pay their quarterly dues

regularly, the others being spasmodic, contributing freely at times or

nothing at all for a long time.

Orlean often laughed as she told me some of the many ways her father had

of making the "dead ones" contribute, but with all the tricks and turns

the position was not a lucrative one, there being no certainty as to the

amount of the compensation. Mrs. Ewis told me the family had always been

poor and got along only by saving in every direction. I could see this

as Orlean seemed to have few clothes and had worn her sister's hat to

Dakota.

Her sister was said to be very mean and disagreeable, and if anyone in

the family had to do without anything it was never the sister. She was

quarrelsome and much disliked while Orlean was the opposite and would

cheerfully deprive herself of anything necessary. Her mother, Mrs. Ewis

went on to tell me, was a "devil, spiteful and mean and as helpless as a

baby." I believed a part of this but not all. I had listened to Mrs.

McCraline, and while I felt she was somewhat on the helpless order, I

did not believe she was mean, nor a "devil." Meanness and deviltry are

usually discernible in the eyes and I had seen none of it in the eyes

of either Mrs. McCraline or Orlean, but I did not like Ethel, and from

what little Miss Ankin told me about the Reverend I was inclined to

believe that he was likely to be the "devil," and Mrs. Ewis' information

regarding Mrs. McCraline was probably inspired by jealousy.

I remembered that back in M--pls the preachers' wives were timid

creatures, submissive to any order or condition their "elder" husbands

put upon them, submitting too much in order to keep peace, never raising

a row over the gossip that came to their ears from malicious "sisters"

and church workers. As long as I could remember the colored ministers

were accused of many ugly things concerning them and the "sisters,"

mostly women who worked in the church, but I had forgotten it until I

now began hearing the gossip concerning Rev. McCraline.

Orlean, her father and her brother-in-law had begun buying a home on

Vernon avenue for which they were to pay four thousand, five hundred

dollars. Of this amount three hundred dollars had been paid, one hundred

by each of them. It was a nice little place, with eight rooms and with a

stone front. Ethel had not paid anything, using her money in preparation

for her wedding, which had taken place in September. Claves and her

father had spent two hundred on it, which seemed very foolish, and were

pinched to the last cent when it was done.

Claves had borrowed five dollars from his brother when they went on the

wedding trip, to pay for a taxi to the depot. The wedding tour and

honeymoon lasted two weeks and was spent in Racine, Wisconsin, sixty

miles north of Chicago. They had just returned when I went to Chicago.

When I first called, Mrs. Claves did not come down but when we returned

to the house she condescended to come down and shake hands. She put on

enough airs to have been a king's daughter.

With the three hundred dollars already paid on the home, they figured

they should be able to pay for it in seven years in monthly installments

of thirty-five dollars, paying the interest upon the principal at the

same time, excepting two thousand which was in a first mortgage and drew

five per cent and payable semi-annually. The house was in a quiet

neighborhood much unlike the south end of Dearborn street and Armour

avenue where none but colored people live.

The better class of Chicago's colored population was making a strenuous

effort to get away from the rougher set, as well as to get out of the

black belt which is centered around Armour, Dearborn, State and

Thirty-first. Here the saloons, barbershops, restaurants and vaudeville

shows are run by colored people, also the clubs and dance houses. East

from State street to the lake, which is referred to by the colored

people of the city as "east of State," there is another and altogether

different class. Here for a long while colored people could hardly rent

or buy a place, then as the white population drifted farther south, to

Greenwood avenue, Hyde Park, Kenwood and other parts now fashionable

districts, some of the avenues including Wabash, Rhodes, Calumet, Vernon

and Indiana began renting to colored people and a few began buying.

Chicago is the Mecca for southern negroes. The better class continued to

desert Dearborn and Armour and paid exorbitant rent for flats east of

State street. Some lost what they had made on Armour avenue where rent

was sometimes less than one-half what was charged five blocks east, and

had to move back to Armour. As more colored people moved toward the lake

more white people moved farther south, rent began falling and real

estate dealers began offering former homes of rich families first for

rent then for sale, and many others began buying as Rev. McCraline had

done, making a small cash payment, and in this way otherwise unsalable

property was disposed of at from five to ten per cent more than it would

have brought at a cash sale.

The place they were buying could have been purchased for three thousand,

eight hundred dollars or four thousand dollars in cash. After moving

east of State street, these people formed into little sets which

represented the more elite, and later developed into a sort of local

aristocracy, which was not distinguished so much by wealth as by the

airs and conventionality of its members, who did not go to public dances

on State street and drink "can" beer. Here for a time they were secure

from the vulgar intrusion of the noisy "loud-mouths," as they called

them, of State street. The last time I was in Chicago State street, the

"dead line," had been crossed and a part of Wabash avenue is almost as

noisy and vulgar as Dearborn. Beer cans, rough clubs and dudes were

becoming as familiar sights as on Armour, and a large part of that part

of the east side is so filled up with colored people that it is only a

question of time until it will be a part of the black belt.

Orlean's brother-in-law had come to Chicago several years previous from

a stumpy farm in the backwoods of Tennessee. He was the son of a

jack-legged preacher and was very ignorant, but had been going with the

girl he married some six years and she had trained him out of much of it

and when he finally figured in the two hundred dollar wedding referred

to, he felt himself admitted into society and highly exalted. He thought

the Reverend a great man, Mrs. Ewis had told me, referring to him as a

Simian-headed negro who tried to walk and act like the Reverend. The

McCralines, especially Ethel, referred to themselves as the "best

people." I thought they were. They were not wicked, and I also guessed

that Ethel felt very "aristocratic," and I wondered whether I would like

the Reverend. He seemed to be regarded as a sort of monarch judging from

the way he was spoken of by the family, but I had a "hunch" that he and

I were not going to fall in love with each other. Still I hoped not to

be the one to start any unpleasantness and would at least wait until I

met him before forming an opinion. I received a letter from him when he

returned from the conference. He did not write a very brilliant letter

but was very reasonable, and tried to appear a little serious when he

referred to my having his daughter come to South Dakota and file on

land. He concluded by saying he thought it a good thing for colored

people to go west and take land.

I received another letter from Orlean about the same time telling me

how her father had scolded her about going to the theatre with me the

Sunday night I had taken her, and pretended, as he had to me, to be very

serious about the claim matter, but she wrote like this: "I know papa,

and I could see he was just pleased over it all that he just strutted

around like a rooster." She wanted to know when I was going to send the

ring, but as I had not thought about it I do not recall what answer I

made her, but do remember that my trip to get her and Mrs. Ewis and send

them home again, including my own expenses, amounted to one hundred

sixty dollars, besides the cost of the land, and having had to pay my

sister's and grandmother's way also and get them started on their

homesteads had taken all of the seven thousand, six hundred dollars I

had borrowed on my land; that I was snow-bound with my corn in the field

and my wheat still unthreshed. I began to write long letters trying to

reason this out with her. She was willing to listen to reason but seemed

so unhappy without the ring, and I imagined as I read her letters that I

could see tears. She said when a girl is engaged she feels lost without

a ring, "and, too," here she seemed to emphasize her words, "everybody

expects it." I was sure she was telling the truth, for with girls "east

of State street," and west as well, the most important thing in an

engagement is the ring, sometimes being more important than the man

himself.

When I lived in Chicago and since I had been living in Dakota and going

to Chicago once a year, I knew that Loftis Brothers had more mortgages

on the moral future and jobs of the young society men, for the diamonds

worn by their sweethearts or wives, than would appear comforting to the

credit man. It made no difference what kind of a job a man might have,

as all the way from a boot-black or a janitor to head waiters and

post-office clerks were included, and their women folks wore some size

of a diamond. I asked myself what I was to do. I could not hope to begin

changing customs, so I bought a forty dollar diamond set in a small

eighteen-karat ring which "just fit," as she wrote later in the sweetest

kind of a letter.

I had written I was sorry that I could not be there to put it on (such a

story!). I had never thought of diamond rings or going after my wife

after spending so much on preliminaries. What I had pictured was what I

had seen, while running to the Pacific coast, girls going west to marry

their pioneer sweethearts, who sent them the money or a ticket. They had

gone, lots of them, to marry their brawny beaux and lived happily "ever

after," but the beaux weren't negroes nor the girls colored. Still there

are lots of colored men who would be out west building an empire, and

plenty of nice colored girls who would journey thither and wed, if they

really understood the opportunities offered; but very few understand the

situation or realize the opportunities open to them in this western

country.

I had expected to get married Christmas but the snow had put a stop to

that plan. Besides, I was so far behind in my work and had no place to

bring my wife. I had abandoned my little "soddy" and was living in a

house on the old townsite, where I intended staying until spring. Then I

would build and move onto my wife's homestead in Tipp county. When

Christmas came grandma and sister came down from Ritten and stayed while

I went to Chicago. I could scarcely afford it but it had become a custom

for me to spend Christmas in Chicago and I wanted to know Orlean better

and I wanted to meet her father. I had written her that I wasn't coming

and when I arrived in the city and called at the house her mother was

surprised, but pleasantly. I thought she was such a kind little soul.

She promised not to tell Orlean I was in the city, (Orlean had secured a

position in a downtown store--ladies' furnishings--and received

five-fifty per week) but couldn't keep it and when I was gone she called

up Orlean and told her I was in the city. When I called in the evening,

instead of surprising Orlean, I was surprised myself. The Reverend

hadn't arrived from southern Illinois but was expected soon.

Orlean had worked long enough to buy herself a new waist and coat, and

Mrs. Ewis, who was a milliner, had given her a hat, and she was dressed

somewhat better than formerly. The family had wanted to give her a nice

wedding, like Ethel's, but found themselves unable to do so. The

semiannual interest on their two-thousand-dollar loan would be due in

January and a payment also, about one hundred and fifty dollars in all.

The high cost of living in Chicago did not leave much out of eighteen

dollars and fifty cents per week, and colored people in southern

Illinois are not very prompt in paying their church dues, especially in

mid-winter; in fact, many of them have a hard time keeping away from

the poorhouse or off the county, and when the Reverend came home he was

very short of money.

[Illustration: As the people were now all riding in autos. (Page 182.)]

I remember how he appeared the evening I called. He had arrived in town

that morning. He was a large man standing well over six feet and weighed

about two hundred pounds, small-boned and fleshy, which gave him a

round, plump appearance, and although he was then near sixty not a

wrinkle was visible in his face. He was very dark, with a medium

forehead and high-bridged nose, making it possible for him to wear

nose-glasses, the nose being very unlike the flat-nosed negro. The large

square upper-lip was partly hidden by a mustache sprinkled with gray,

and his nearly white hair, worn in a massive pompadour, contrasted

sharply with the dark skin and rounded features. His great height gave

him an unusually attractive appearance of which he, I later learned, was

well aware and made the most. In fact, his personal appearance was his

pride, but his eye was not the eye of an intelligent or deep thinking

man. They reminded me more of the eyes of a pig, full but

expressionless, and he could put on airs, such a drawing-up and

spreading-out, seeming to give the impression of being hard to approach.

When introduced to him I had another "hunch" we were not going to like

each other. I was always frank, forward and unafraid, and his

ceremonious manner did not affect me in the least. I went straight to

him, taking his hand in response to the introduction and saying a few

common-place things. They were very home-like for city people, inviting

me to supper and treating me with much respect. The head of the table

was occupied by the Reverend when he was at home and by Claves when the

Reverend was away. I could readily see where Ethel got her airs. It took

him about thirty minutes to get over his ceremonious manner, after which

we talked freely, or rather, I talked. He was a poor listener and,

although he never cut off my discourse in any way, he didn't listen as I

had been used to having people listen, apparently with encouragement in

their eyes, which makes talking a pleasure, so I soon ceased to talk.

This, however, seemed still more awkward and I grew to feel a trifle

displeased in his company.

On the following Sunday we went to morning service on Wabash avenue at a

big stone structure. It appeared to be a rule of the household that the

girls should go out together. This displeased me very much, as I had

grown to dislike Ethel and Claves did not interest me. Both talked of

society and "swell people" they wanted me to meet, putting it in such a

way as to have me feel I was meeting my betters, while the truth of the

matter was that I did not desire to meet any of their friends nor to

have them with us anywhere we went. When church services were over we

went to spend the time before Sunday School opened, with some friends of

theirs named Latimer, who lived on Wabash avenue near the church, and

who were so nearly white that they could easily have passed for white

people.

The family consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Latimer and Mr. Latimer's sister,

and were the most interesting people I had ever met on any of my trips

to Chicago. They inquired all about Dakota and whether there were many

colored settlers in the state, listening to every word with careful

attention and approving or disapproving with nods and smiles. While they

were so deeply interested, Claves, who had a reputation for "butting in"

and talking too much, interrupted the conversation, blurting out his

opinion, stopping me and embarrassing them, by stating that colored

people had been held in slavery for two hundred years and since they

were free they did not want to go out into the wilderness and sit on a

farm, but wanted to be where they could have freedom and convenience,

and this was sanctioned by a friend of Claves's who was still more

ignorant than he. This angered Orlean and when we were outside even

Ethel expressed her disgust at Claves' ignorance.

They told me that the Latimers were very well-to-do, owning considerable

property besides the three-story building where they lived. To me this

accounted for their careful attention, for it is my opinion that when

you find a colored man or woman who has succeeded in actually doing

something, and not merely pretending to, you will find an interesting

and reasonable person to converse with, and one who will listen to a

description of conditions and opportunities with marked intelligence.

Orlean and I attended a few shows at the downtown theatres during the

week, the first being a pathetic drama which our friends advised us to

see entitled "Madam X". I did not like it at all. The leading character

is the wife of a business man who has left her husband and remains away

from him two years, presumably discouraged over his lack of affection;

is very young and wants to be loved, as the "old story" goes, and the

husband is too busy to know that she is unhappy. She returns after two

years and asks forgiveness and love, but is turned away by the husband.

Twenty years later, in the closing act, a court scene decorates the

stage; a woman is on trial for killing the man she has lived with

unlawfully. She had been a woman of the street and lived with many

others before living with the one murdered. The young lawyer who has her

case, is her son, although he is not aware of this fact. He has just

been admitted to the bar and this is his first case, having been

appointed to the defense by the court. He takes the stand and delivers

an eloquent address on behalf of the woman, who appears to be so

saturated with liquor and cocaine as to be quite oblivious of her

surroundings. She expires from the effect of her dissipations, but just

before death she looks up and recognizes her son, she having been the

young wife who left her home twenty-two years before. The unhappy

father, who had suffered as only a deserted husband can and who had

prayed for many years for the return of the wife, is present in the

court room and together with the son, are at her side in death. As the

climax of the play is reached, suppressed sobs became audible in the

balcony, where we had seats. The scene was pathetic, indeed, and I had

hard work keeping back the tears while my betrothed was using her

handkerchief freely.

What I did not like about the play was the fact of her going away and

taking up an immoral life instead of remaining pure and returning later

to her husband. The husband, as the play goes, had not been a bad man

and was unhappy throughout the play, and I argued this with Orlean all

the way home. Why did she not remain good and when she returned he could

have gathered her into his arms and "lived happy ever after." Not only

my fiancee but most other women I have talked with about the play

contend that he could have taken her back when she returned and been

good to her. The man who wrote the play may have been a tragedian but

the management that put it on the road knew a money-maker and kept it

there as long as the people patronized the box office.

The next play we attended suited me better as, to my mind, it possessed

all that "Madam X" lacked and, instead of weakness and an unhappy

ending, this was one of strength of character and a happy finale. It was

"The Fourth Estate," by Joseph Medill Patterson, who served his

apprenticeship in writing on the Chicago Tribune. It was a newspaper

play and its interest centered around one Wheeler Brand, who, through

the purchase of a big city daily by a western man, with the bigness to

hand out the truth regardless of the threats of the big advertisers,

becomes managing editor. He relentlessly goes after one Judge Barteling

whose "rotten" decisions had but sufficed to help "big business" and

without regard to their effect upon the poor. The one really square

decision was recalled before it took effect. To complicate matters the

young editor loves the judge's daughter and while Brand holds a high

place in Miss Barteling's regard, he is made to feel that to retain it

he must stop the fight on her father. Brand pleads with her to see the

moral of it but is unable to change her views. One evening Brand secures

a flashlight photo and telephone witnesses of an interview with the

judge, the photo showing the judge in the act of handing him a

ten-thousand-dollar bribe. Late that night Brand has the article

exposing this transaction in type and ready for the press when the

proprietor, who has heretofore been so pleased with Brand's performance,

but whose wife has gained an entrance into society through the influence

of Judge Barteling, enters the office with the order to "kill the

story."

This was a hard blow to the coming newspaper man. The judge calls and

jokes him about being a smart boy but crazed with ideals, but is shocked

when he turns to find his daughter has entered the office and has heard

the conversation. He tells her to come along home with papa, but she

decides to remain with Brand. She has thought her father in the right

all along, but now that she has heard her father condone dishonesty she

can no longer think so. Wheeler disobeys orders and sends the paper to

press without "killing the story," and "all's well that ends well."

In a week or so I was back in Dakota where the thermometer registered

twenty-five below with plenty of snow for company. I received a letter

from the Reverend shortly after returning home saying they hoped to see

me in Chicago again soon. I did not know what that meant unless it was

that I was expected to return to be married, but as I had been to

Chicago twice in less than four months and had suggested to Orlean that

she come to Megory and be married there, I supposed that it was all

settled, but this was where I began to learn that the McCraline family

were very inconsiderate.

I had not claimed to be wealthy or to have unlimited amounts of money to

spend in going to and from Chicago, as though it were a matter of eighty

miles instead of eight hundred. I had explained to the Reverend that it

was a burden rather than a luxury to be possessed of a lot of raw land,

until it could be cultivated and made to yield a profit. I recalled that

while talking with the Reverend in regard to this he had nodded his head

in assent but with no facial expression to indicate that he understood

or cared. The more I knew him the more I disliked him, and was very

sorry that Orlean regarded his as a great man, although his immediate

family were the only ones who regarded him in that light. I had learned

to expect his ceremonious manner but was considerably tried by his

apparent dullness and lack of interest or encouragement of practical

ideas.

I put volumes into my letters to Orlean, trying to make clear why she

should condescend to come to Megory and be quietly married instead of

obliging me to return to Chicago. I had no more money, as it was

expensive to keep my grandmother and sister on their claims. They had no

money and I had no outside support, not even the moral support of my

people nor of Orlean's, who all seemed to take it for granted that I had

plenty of ready money. I had not taken a cent out of the crop I had

raised, the corn still standing in the field, with a heavy snow on the

ground and my small grain still unthreshed.

However, my letters were in vain. Miss McCraline could see no other way

than that if I cared for her I'd come and marry her at home, which she

contended was no more than right and would look much better. I sighed

wearily over it all and began to suspect I was "in the right church, but

in the wrong pew."

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