CHAPTER VIII

FAR DOWN THE PACIFIC--THE PROPOSAL

After the presidential election of that year I went to South America

with a special party, consisting mostly of New York capitalists and

millionaires. We traveled through the southwest, crossing the Rio Grand

at Eagle Pass, and on south by the way of Toreon, Zacatecas, Aguas

Calientes, Guadalajara, Puebla, Tehauntepec and to the southwest coast,

sailing from Salina Cruz down the Pacific to Valparaiso, Chile, going

inland to Santiago, thence over the Trans-Andean railway across the

Andes, and onward to the western plateau of Argentina.

Arriving at the new city of Mendoza, we visited the ruins of the ancient

city of the same name. Here, in the early part of the fifteenth century,

on a Sunday morning, when a large part of the people were at church, an

earthquake shook the city. When it passed, it left bitter ruin in its

wake, the only part that stood intact being one wall of the church. Of a

population of thirteen thousand, only sixteen hundred persons escaped

alive. The city was rebuilt later, and at the time we were there it was

a beautiful place of about twenty-five thousand population. At this

place a report of bubonic plague, in Brazil, reached us. The party

became frightened and beat it in post haste back to Valparaiso, setting

sail immediately for Salina Cruz, and spent the time that was scheduled

for a tour of Argentina, in snoopin' around the land of the Montezumas.

This is the American center of Catholic Churches; the home of many gaudy

Spanish women and begging peons; where the people, the laws, and the

customs, are two hundred years behind those of the United States. Still,

I thought Mexico very beautiful, as well as of historical interest.

One day we journeyed far into the highlands, where lay the ancient

Mexican city of Cuernavaca, the one time summer home of America's only

Emperor, Maximilian. From there we went to Puebla, where we saw the old

Cathedral which was begun in 1518, and which at that time was said to be

the second largest in the world. We saw San Louis Potosi, and Monterey,

and returned by the way of Loredo, Texas. I became well enough

acquainted with the liberal millionaires and so useful in serving their

families that I made five hundred and seventy-five dollars on the trip,

besides bringing back so many gifts and curiosities of all kinds that I

had enough to divide up with a good many of my friends.

Flushed with prosperity and success in my undertakings since leaving

Southern Illinois less than three years before, I went to M--boro to see

my sister and to see whether Miss Rooks had grown any. I was received as

a personage of much importance among the colored people of the town, who

were about the same kind that lived in M--pls; not very progressive,

excepting with their tongues when it came to curiosity and gossip. I

arrived in the evening too late to call on Miss Rooks and having become

quite anxious to see her again, the night dragged slowly away, and I

thought the conventional afternoon would never come again. Her father,

who was an important figure among the colored people, was a mail carrier

and brought the mail to the house that morning where I stopped. He

looked me over searchingly, and I tried to appear unaffected by his

scrutinizing glances.

By and by two o'clock finally arrived, and with my sister I went to make

my first call in three years. I had grown quite tall and rugged, and I

was anxious to see how she looked. We were received by her mother who

said: "Jessie saw you coming and will be out shortly." After a while she

entered and how she had changed. She, too, had grown much taller and was

a little stooped in the shoulders. She was neatly dressed and wore her

hair done up in a small knot, in keeping with the style of that time.

She came straight to me, extended her hand and seemed delighted to see

me after the years of separation.

After awhile her mother and my sister accommodatingly found an excuse to

go up town, and a few minutes later with her on the settee beside me, I

was telling of my big plans and the air castles I was building on the

great plains of the west. Finally, drawing her hand into mine and

finding that she offered no resistance, I put my arm around her waist,

drew her close and declared I loved her. Then I caught myself and dared

not go farther with so serious a subject when I recalled the wild,

rough, and lonely place out on the plains that I had selected as a home,

and finally asked that we defer anything further until the claim on the

Little Crow should develop into something more like an Illinois home.

"O, we don't know what will happen before that time," she spoke for the

first time, with a blush as I squeezed her hand.

"But nothing can happen," I defended, nonplused, "can there?"

"Well, no," she answered hesitatingly, leaning away.

"Then we will, won't we?" I urged.

"Well, yes", she answered, looking down and appearing a trifle doubtful.

I admired her the more. Love is something I had longed for more than

anything else, but my ambition to overcome the vagaries of my race by

accomplishing something worthy of note, hadn't given me much time to

seek love.

I went to my old occupation of the road for awhile and spent most of the

winter on a run to Florida, where the tipping was as good as it had been

on the run from St. Louis to New York. However, about a month before I

quit I was assigned to a run to Boston. By this time I had seen nearly

all the important cities in the United States and of them all none

interested me so much as Boston.

What always appeared odd to me, however, was the fact that the passenger

yards were right at the door of the fashionable Back Bay district on

Huntington Avenue, near the Hotel Nottingham, not three blocks from

where the intersection of Huntington Avenue and Boylston Street form an

acute angle in which stands the Public Library, and in the opposite

angle stands Trinity Church, so thickly purpled with aristocracy and the

memory big with the tradition of Philip Brooks, the last of that group

of mighty American pulpit orators, of whom I had read so much. A little

farther on stands the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

The mornings I spent wandering around the city, visiting Faneuil Hall,

the old State House, Boston commons, Bunker Hill, and a thousand other

reminders of the early heroism, rugged courage, and far seeing greatness

of Boston's early citizens. Afternoons generally found me on Tremont or

Washington Street attending a matinee or hearing music. There once I

heard Caruso, Melba, and two or three other grand opera stars in the

popular Rigoletto Quartette, and another time I witnessed "Siberia" and

the gorgeous and blood-curdling reproduction of the Kishneff Massacre,

with two hundred people on the stage. On my last trip to Boston I saw

Chauncy Olcott in "Terrence the Coach Boy", a romance of old Ireland

with the scene laid in Valley Bay, which seemed to correspond to the

Back Bay a few blocks away.

Dear old Boston, when will I see you again, was my thought as the train

pulled out through the most fashionable part of America, so stately and

so grand. Even now I recall the last trip with a sigh. If the Little

Crow, with Oristown as its gateway, was a land of hope; through

Massachusetts; Worcester, with the Polytechnic Institute arising in the

back ground; Springfield, and Smith School for girls, Pittsfield,

Brookfield, and on to Albany on the Hudson, is a memory never to be

forgotten, which evolved in my mind many long years afterward, in my

shack on the homestead.

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