CHAPTER XXV

The Barber Company—Guadalajara—Mexican mendacity—Don Miguel Ahumada—His

humanity and justice.

I think I can safely say that twenty per cent. of the opposition the

Barber Company gets in the States is from men who were formerly in its

employ. This is right enough in most cases, but in some that I have

known it was done in a most underhand way. A manager of one of the

branches gets well acquainted with all the politicians in his town or

district by the judicious use of the company’s entertainment fund, then,

when there is some exceptional contract coming up, he gets some of these

politicians to go into a new company, obtains funds from his friends,

and the Barber Company not only loses the contract but there is an

opposition formed with strong political backing which must eventually be

beaten or bought out. Somehow this sort of thing is not looked down upon

by business men as it should be, who will pardon almost anything if it

is “cute.” Here are two stories which illustrate cute business methods.

A certain lawyer was suing the city for damages for his client, who had

fallen through a defective culvert and injured himself. He won his case,

and sent word to his client to come and get the money. When his client

arrived he handed him $1, and told him the jury had awarded $1000. “What

is this?” asked the client. “That is what is left after deducting cost

of appeal, my fee, and some other expenses,” returned the lawyer. “Yes,

I understand that,” said the client, who was a business man, “but what

was wrong with this dollar that you have given it to me?” They tell of

the Yankee salesman during slavery times who was travelling through the

South. A southern planter lent him a horse to ride on to the next town,

and sent along a negro boy to bring the horse back. Some time later,

neither the horse nor the boy having returned, he sent in to town to see

what had happened. His messenger met the boy on the street and asked him

why he had not brought the horse back yet. The boy replied that the Yank

had sold the horse. “Well, why did not you come back and let us know?”

asked the messenger. “Cause he done sold me too!” So any trickery, if it

is clever and works successfully, is never thought much of, but is

laughed at as a good joke. Of course this is only my particular

experience of business methods. I may have been unfortunate in having

met a certain class, those interested in contracting, and city and

government officials.

I was glad to leave Los Angeles, which I did in company with the

assistant manager of the new company I had joined, and my new yard

foreman. Before going further, I must say that the views stated above

have changed much since coming to Mexico and meeting American gentlemen

in the contracting business. I have never been asked to do crooked work,

and, on the contrary, my orders have always been to do the best work

possible under the specifications.

After passing the Mexican border at El Paso the journey lies for the

first hundred miles or so through a dreary sandy waste till one reaches

Torreon, which, owing to its irrigation canals, is the centre of a very

fine farming district. The town possesses large smelters, a white-lead

works, and a glycerine and dynamite factory. And this is the town where

in Madero’s late revolution 303 poor unhappy Chinamen were slaughtered

in cold blood! The next place of importance is Zacatecas, one of the

largest mining centres in the Mexican republic, with mines, now being

worked, that were worked by the Spaniards some three hundred years ago.

Its cathedral, perched up on the top of the mountain, was all lighted up

for some great church _fiesta_; a very pretty sight, visible for miles

after we had passed the town. From Irapuata a branch line runs to

Guadalajara. The country here changes entirely as one enters the State

of Jalisco, known as the granary of Mexico. Guadalajara itself is a fine

old Mexican city, in the centre of an immense fertile plain, at an

elevation of 5200 feet. It is a town that has always been against the

Liberals, being the great centre of the Clerical Party, and consequently

the Federal Government under Diaz never did much to help it. Juarez was

nearly assassinated here, and General Diaz was hissed by the people when

he went up there some twelve years ago. It has a beautiful cathedral,

and churches are to be found in almost every block of the centre of the

town. It is a very sleepy place, distinguished for this even in a land

where the people are accustomed to take life easily; things have,

however, changed much in the last eight years.

There are certain ways hard to get accustomed to in this country. One is

the habit of lying, not maliciously, but that lying to keep you in a

good humour which is practised by all classes. For instance, you go into

an office and ask for a certain person who happens to be out. You ask

when he will be back, and the reply is invariably, “Please sit down, he

will be back in a moment.” In fact, they lead you to suppose that they

are astonished that he has not already returned. And all the time they

know that he has gone home, and left word that he would not return! I

have been to a foundry to get delivery of work promised me by the owner

on his “word of a gentleman,” by the following day (which he knew, and I

knew, could not possibly be done), and I have finally got the work

delivered three weeks later, after going up and cursing him twice a

week. I have asked for work long overdue, been met at the door and told

that I must have missed it on the way there as it had just left for the

factory, while all the time it was still unfinished. Then there is the

siesta habit indulged in by all Mexicans, though foreigners do not

follow the custom or find it at all necessary to health. From 1 P.M.

till 3 P.M. all business is stopped, not a store is open or an office.

Another trouble is stealing; it seems to come natural to a Mexican of

the lower classes to steal. Then, if he can, the Mexican does everything

in the opposite way to any one else. I have heard it said that the only

thing they do the same as other people is digging a well, because they

do not know how to start at the bottom; but this is an exaggeration.

When a Mexican gives his address he puts the street first and the number

afterwards; their exclamation marks are used upside down, and the query

mark is like this ¿. If they are going to pull down an old house and

build a new one, they build the new one inside the old one, and only

pull down as it becomes necessary; they saw with the teeth of the saw

away from them, and other things too numerous to mention.

Guadalajara claims to have the cheapest electrical power on the

continent (six cents the kilowatt hour), and in consequence it is an

important manufacturing town, having cotton mills, flour mills, two or

three foundries, soap factory, a smelter, sugar refineries, three

breweries, whisky distillery, and other industries. The schools also are

good, and it has an engineering and medical college and two industrial

schools, one for boys and one for girls. The city was founded in 1541 by

Nuño de Guzman. It has a climate far surpassing that of Los Angeles,

and, if it were only known, it would become a great centre of tourist

travel. Now that the line is built to Manzanillo on the Pacific coast,

it is easy to reach Guadalajara from any of the Pacific coast ports in

the United States or Canada. Close to Guadalajara are the falls of

Juanacatlan, called the Niagara of Mexico (575 feet long and 400 feet

high). Within twenty miles is Lake Chapala, about fifty miles long and

five to ten broad, which affords good duck, goose, and snipe shooting,

though practically no fishing, as the only fish are German carp and

catfish, neither of which are game fish. There are also a few deer,

bear, and mountain lion to be had, if one has time and patience and is a

good climber. The quail have been practically exterminated, as have also

the rabbits.

The government of the country has been a benevolent despotism; and as

this was the method of the Federal Government while in the hands of

General Diaz, so also it was that of each governor in his particular

state. It has not as yet had time to change much under Madero, but I

think it will do so gradually, as the people get accustomed to their

civic rights and demand them. They have a congress, it is true, both in

the States and the Federal one, but these are more for show than

anything else. The Mexicans have a story they are fond of telling in

regard to this. A woman once went to see the governor to get an

appointment for her son. The governor said, “I will put him in as a

clerk.” “But,” said the woman, “he cannot read or write.” The governor

then said he would make him a captain of police. Said the woman, “He

cannot ride, and the truth is he is a little feeble-minded.” “Then,”

asked the governor, “what do you want me to make him, and what is he

fitted for?” The woman replied, “I thought he would make a good

congressman!”

This form of government seems just suited to the people, and I have

heard Mexicans of standing, even since the revolution, say that they

were not fitted to govern themselves, but needed a strong man at the

head, and this is the main cry against Madero, the present president.

Every Thursday afternoon the governor holds a public audience, at which

any one can attend, and if he has a grievance he can state it; the

governor will look into it and, if possible, set it right, sometimes

even overruling police magistrates’ or judges’ orders. It is an

experience to attend one of these audiences and see people of every

grade who come for justice or to have some grievance attended to. It is

the _Nousherwan_ ideal of Asia, but as little capable of being realised

there as here; better, nevertheless, than India’s _Vakil ka Raj_

(lawyers’ rule), according to the Bengali writer, Mr. Mitra. Of course

the whole system hinges on having an honest governor like Don Miguel

Ahumada of Guadalajara, as in the hands of a dishonest man it is a great

lever for blackmail.

Such men as our governor, Colonel Don Miguel Ahumada, are hard to find

in this country—in fact any country might be proud to claim him. He was

a man of about six feet four inches tall, with chest and shoulders in

proportion, wore a black imperial and large curled-up moustache, his

forehead was high and broad, and, though his face was a trifle hard,

there were lines of humour round his eyes and mouth. He was a man of the

old school, like his great leader Diaz. He was honest, absolutely just

(rich and poor looked alike to him), had a keen sense of humour, very

proud, but a thorough democrat. I have seen him walking the streets in

the early morning, unattended, and stopping to chat and ask questions of

the street-sweepers, the small street-corner vendors, beggars, and

whomsoever he met who he thought might have information of use to him.

Thus he kept in touch with the needs of the poor, and heard of abuses

and petty thievery amongst the city’s employees. I could give hundreds

of instances of his humanity and justice, but will content myself with

one. On one occasion a widow came to him with the following tale: Her

husband when dying had left all the property to her, but had asked a

trusted friend of his to arrange all the details of succession and so

forth. This friend, through one excuse or another, kept affairs strung

out for a year or more, and then demanded sundry thousands of dollars

for his work. Don Miguel (as every one called him) sent for the fellow

and told him to bring all the deeds, inventories, &c., with him. When he

arrived, Don Miguel took all the papers, &c., and, after putting a fair

valuation on the work done, paid the man as many hundreds as he had

demanded thousands, and turned everything else over to the widow.

Seeking Fortune in America · 第 25 / 37 章