JEST AND EARNEST.

You know, my dear friend, that in Vienna, every man who can eat a roast

fowl, and (N.B.) pay for it, receives the title of _Euer Gnaden_ (Your

Grace.) In S----,[98] on the other hand, every man who has a whole coat

is called, _in dubio_, _Herr Rath_ (Counsellor;) or still better, _Herr

Geheimer Rath_ (Privy Counsellor.) They do not trouble themselves with

the distinctions between an actual and a nominal _Rath_, a half, (that

is a pensioned,) or a whole, (that is a full-payed,) and a payless

_Rath_, a titular nullity. The attributes and functions of this

mysterious Counsellorship are wonderfully various. In the first place

comes the invalid statesman in the _Residenz_, who, from respect for his

declining years, and as a reward for living over half a century, has

been invested with the yellow griffin; or a provincial chief president,

more remarkable for his prepossessions in his own behalf, than for his

public labours, whom his services on occasion of the visit of some

foreign sovereign have raised to honours and to orders. Here we find the

vigorous prop of the finances, or that 'rara avis,' a man of influence

near the throne, yet as full of modesty as of merit: there a vegetating

_Excellenz_, who knows no other occupation than that of going from house

to house dishing up antiquated jokes and _jeux de mots_, which for half

a century have enjoyed the uninterrupted privilege of delighting 'la

crême de la bonnie société' in the capital. Next we see it in the person

of one who is equally delightful as man and as poet, and who has never

trodden any but the straight forward path. A little further we recognize

it in the form of a less brilliant but more comprehensive genius,

which, although consecrated to Themis, has an acute eye for the glories

of the theatrical, as well as the celestial stars. This Proteus then

transforms itself into a _Cameralist_, celebrated for his breed of sheep

and his political economy, who manures his fields;--then into a

physician, who performs a similar good office on the churchyard. It is

also to be found in the invincible _Landwehr_; nay even the post,[99]

the lottery, &c., cannot exist without it. The court-philosopher, and

court-theologian, all shake hands as _Geheime Räthe_; for so they are,

have been, or shall be hereafter: in short, no nation under the sun is

more richly provided with counsel, and truly of the most privy kind; for

such is the modesty of these countless counsellors, that many of them

keep their talents buried in the most profound secrecy.

It is, however, a real pleasure to see with what unconstrained and

touching 'bonhommie' they bandy titles and compliments, every one

exalting the other, and awaiting in return a grateful reciprocity of

good offices.

The various adjuncts and applications of the poor word _geboren_ (born)

must doubtless for ever remain a mystical enigma to all foreigners who

endeavour to acquire the German language. Without plunging deeper into

this labyrinth, I will only mention for their information, that with us

the meanest beggar will no longer condescend to be merely _geboren_;

that _Edelgeboren_[100] (nobly born) begins to be a sensible affront to

the lower order of official persons; and _Wohlgeboren_ (well born) no

less so to the higher, but not noble functionaries. For my part, I am

very careful to write to my tailor, "_Hochwohlgeborner Herr_"

(High-well-born Sir.) He was moreover a very distinguished man, a

descendant of our old friend Robinson Crusoe, who has attained to

historic importance by the daring and inimitable cut of uniforms: he was

therefore deserving, at the least, of an order of merit.[101]

That no restraint may be imposed on this arbitrary distribution and

assumption of titles, matters are so favourably arranged, that with all

this avidity for rank, there exists no real and fixed order of rank,

either determined by the court, or by birth, or grounded on opinion and

custom, so general and rooted in the nation as to have nearly the force

of law. Sometimes it is birth, oftener place; sometimes merit, sometimes

favour, sometimes irresistible impudence which seizes precedence

wherever accident or circumstances offer it. This gives occasion to many

strange anomalies, which an old nobleman like myself, a Baron von

Tunderdendronk, "qui ne sauroit compter le nombre de ses ânes," as

general P---- said, cannot understand. Complaints, affronts, and

anxieties are therefore endless in society. There is only a certain

lively and excellent old lady, who has the sole and proper art of

maintaining the first place almost everywhere, and under all

circumstances. She unites great talents with remarkable bodily strength

and bravery; and by means of these mingled advantages, sometimes by wit,

sometimes by unimaginable rudeness; sometimes, when nothing else will

do, by a hearty push, she takes and maintains precedency at court and on

all gala occasions. I know from good authority that Countess Kackelack,

at one of our courts (for you know we have many,) felt herself slighted

and aggrieved by a certain court party, and by the advice of her friend

the Starost von Pückling addressed a petition directly to our upright

and equitable ruler, praying that her place might be officially

determined. It was allotted immediately after that of the Princess Bona,

who (for once, on account of the services of her late husband,) is in

possession of the first. The Grand-Marshal (_Grosswürdenträger_,

Grand-dignity-bearer) Prince Weise, brought her the order, and added,

"But, my dear Countess, you must yield precedence to Baroness Stolz, for

with your slender person what can you do against her? A single blow from

her elbow lames you for ever. Do therefore let her go first; for you

know even the police is afraid of her since the famous challenge she put

forth some years ago."

Everything must yield to force; and this shows how difficult it is to

secure precedence to mere merit without universal and declared

rules:--merit is so relative. If a minister or a general is a great

man,--who can deny that the best of cooks, the loveliest of

opera-dancers, has great merit? merit which, as history teaches us,

monarchs and states have recognized and honoured.

In England, where antiquity of title gives precedence (be it remarked,

by-the-bye, the safest and best adapted to a monarchy,[102]) the great

Field Marshal and Prime Minister Wellington must yield precedence to the

little Duke of St. Albans, (who is known, indeed, but not very

illustrious,) because the latter is an older Duke; that is to say, the

services of his progenitress Nell Gwynn, an actress and mistress of

Charles II., are of more ancient date than those of the Duke of

Wellington, and consequently entitle her descendants to all the rights

of precedence over the great general.

In our capital it is otherwise. We are generally too well accustomed to

bad eating to estimate very highly the merits of a good cook, and are of

late universally become so virtuous that nobody has a mistress. As to

rewarding merit, that is a thing which does not often come under

contemplation.[103]

What really and mainly gives rank and consideration here, is _to be a

servant_ of the state or of the court, 'n'importe lequel et comment.'

"Beati possidentes." The good old German proverb applies here, "When God

gives a place, he gives brains to fill it." The Bureaucracy has taken

the place of the Aristocracy, and will perhaps soon become equally

hereditary. Even now the Government itself cannot dismiss any of its

'employées' without regular trial and judgment: every man regards his

place as his most stable property, and it is not to be wondered at that

place-holders laud this state of things to the skies. Strange, that

nevertheless all states which have a free constitution,--all in which it

is a recognized principle that the nation, and not any privileged

class--not even that of its official servants--is the main

object,--follow a totally opposite system.[104]

The middle classes are, in another way, happy in their disregarded

state: they enjoy their competence 'con amore,' and, as the salt of

life, they indulge themselves now and then with a lawsuit, for which the

ministers of justice afford them every possible facility. The merchant,

whether Christian or præ-Christian, finds his account in this, and, if

he knows how to come at it, useful patronage. Indeed to have a great

deal of money is almost as good as to be a _wirklicher Geheimerath_

(actual privy counsellor):[105] and rich bankers, who keep a good house,

are reckoned among the privileged classes, and not unfrequently for

these high deserts elevated to nobility.

In this manner, all manage to get something; the unfortunate nobles,

especially those of ancient date, are the only people with whom it goes

hard. Without money, without any land of which he has the free disposal,

his titles affording an example of infinite multiplication, and his

hereditary estates of infinite division, without any share in the

legislation, long stripped of his ancient endowments and benefices,[106]

unnecessarily and unfairly annoyed by the authorities, his ill-supported

claims often bringing upon him not only ridicule and contempt, but

hostility and persecution, the nobleman has, _as member of a

Corporation_, lost all dignity and importance in the eyes of the people,

and he retains scarcely any other distinction than that of serving as

the only stuff out of which to make chamberlains and lords in waiting,

in the respective courts of the capital;--doubtless always a most

enviable lot.

This last truth is duly known to many; and a great deal of talent has

been displayed thereupon by a celebrated authoress, who was some time

ago engaged in a sort of amicable rivalry with her husband on the field

of romance,--a contest which used to produce two or three works of that

nature, consisting of as many volumes each, every Leipsig fair, to the

great joy of the public. The most extraordinary part of the story is,

that the works of the husband were characterized by the overflowing

tenderness of a female pen; those of the wife, on the contrary, by a

somewhat unwieldy quantity of masculine knowledge, a lead which even the

alchemical hand of an amiable and accomplished prince could not turn to

gold. The works of both, especially the former, have outlived their

vogue; and the graceful and child-like simplicity of the Northern

heroes, who tilted at each other with tenderness, looked on their slain

friend with clear blue eyes, and imprinted upon his lips the kiss of

peace; nay, even their wondrous steeds, who galloped over precipitous

crags and swam after their lords through seas, have been forced, spite

of all their marvellous gifts, to give way to Walter Scott's unbreeched

Highlanders.

The poetical young lords of the chamber, and the learned tea-parties of

the noble lady, had long before been deserted as somewhat insipid. In

such a tea-party did Ahasuerus, (as we read in the memoirs of the

Devil,) after his long and restless wanderings, first find repose, and

sink into a refreshing sleep. Since that time, the thick volumes of the

distinguished authoress have dwindled to small tales,--pretty

ephemera,--which live but a day indeed, but are well requited by the

honour of circulating exclusively in courts and antechambers, among

princes, ladies in waiting, and maids of honour, lords of the chamber,

equerries and grooms of the chambers (for nothing within the precinct of

a court is to be treated lightly). Haunted rooms were lately introduced,

but the ghosts were so dull and _fades_, so like white-washed boards,

'avec un bel air de famille,' that the utmost they could do was to make

one _think_ of a cold shudder, never to excite one. The most piquant of

all these stories was unquestionably that which 'persiffloit' the

society of the capital, in which poor Viola played a very suspicious

part, and a fashionable lady was introduced, who sold her for a large

sum to an illustrious person. This story was justly called moral: for it

excited in every person of good feeling, who read it, detestation of

calumny and of hasty condemnations. The ill-natured, however, were

delighted with it for other reasons; and so in one way or other it was

not without value. It might fairly be called a master-piece when

compared with the "Tales of the middle ages," full of virtue and

distress, of Christianity and indecency, of Italianism and Germanism,

which the necessities of journal and almanack literature call into

existence by myriads, and of which we may say with Schiller, "When

people are gorged with vice, set virtue on the table."[107] These do not

reach either the one or the other; but, from the beginning to the end,

one suffers the moral 'pendant' of a so-called medical cure by nausea.

After enduring all sorts of allusions, the whole thing burns in the pan,

and so far from being fit to bring to table, the unfortunate reader is

for a long time disgusted with all food whatsoever.[108]

But to return to the learned and amiable lady, of whom we were just

speaking. At the time I was in those regions, a strange swarm of insects

sported in the wintry sun of her courtly and literary celebrity, ycelped

in the great world a coterie, which, I believe, establishes it as a

principle (who has not principles now-a-days?), that nobles have really

and truly a different sort of blood in their veins from that of other

men; and that if a common tree can be ennobled at all, it can be only by

the process of grafting; for instance, by the insertion of some

illegitimate scion of a noble stock. They teach that this nobility

should remain, before all things, pure and distinct; it must dishonour

itself neither by trade nor by any speculations of public utility, which

latter offence has lately been denounced as the cause of the decay of

the nobility of the land by a certain Frau von Tonne in a very

voluminous work. To dabble a little in authorship and artistship is

lawful (even for money, nay for burghers' money,) seeing that

artists[109] occupy a sort of middle region between the noble and the

_bourgeois_. A constitutional high nobility and a representative

government are by no means to the taste of this party; from the very

natural reason that under any such terrible system, men, the date of

whose nobility is known to nobody but themselves, and whose encumbered

estates are split up into portions of microscopic invisibility, would be

condemned to the horror of being compelled to take their seat in the

Chamber of Commons (where else?). Who can blame them, therefore, under

circumstances, for preferring the chambers of princes, especially if

they can lord it there? Which Heaven forfend! It is to be hoped they

will remain merely titular, and not actual _privy_ counsellors and

_lords_ of the bedchamber.

_Evening._

I could bear no longer to sit still in my room, while the castle

opposite to my windows tempted me forth. As soon therefore as A---- had

taken his departure, I procured a mountain pony and rode out in high

spirits. This remarkable edifice was built by the proprietor of the

slate quarries, situated about three miles distant, which bring him a

yearly income of 40,000_l._ He has laid out a part in the most

delightful situation on the sea-shore; and has pursued the strange but

admirably executed idea of erecting every building within its enclosure

in the old Saxon style of architecture. The English falsely ascribe the

introduction of this style to the Anglo-Saxons: it arose in the time of

the emperors of Saxon line; and it is quite certain that none of the

numerous Saxon remains are to be traced to an earlier date. The high

wall, which surrounds the park in a circuit of at least a German mile,

has a very singular appearance; pointed masses of slate three or four

feet high, and of irregular shape, are built upright into the top of the

wall. At every entrance a fortress-like gate with a portcullis frowns on

the intruder,--no inapt symbol, by-the-bye, of the illiberality of the

present race of Englishmen, who shut their parks and gardens more

closely than we do our sitting-rooms. The favoured visitor must then

cross a drawbridge before he passes the gate-way of the imposing castle.

The black marble of the island of Anglesea, rudely hewn, harmonizes

admirably with the majestic character of the surrounding scenery. The

pure Saxon style is preserved in the minutest details, even in the

servants' rooms and meanest parts of the building. In the eating-hall I

found an imitation of the castle of William the Conqueror, at Rochester,

which I formerly described to you. What could then be accomplished only

by a mighty monarch, is now executed, as a plaything,--only with

increased size, magnificence and expense,--by a simple

country-gentleman, whose father very likely sold cheeses. So do times

change!

The ground-plan of the building, which the architect had the politeness

to show me, gave occasion to certain domestic details, which I am glad

to be able to communicate to you; because nearly all large English

country-houses are constructed on the same plan; and because in this, as

in many other things, the nice perception of the useful and commodious,

the exquisite adaptation of means to ends, which distinguish the

English, are conspicuous. The servants never wait in the

ante-room,--here called the hall,--which, like the overture of an opera,

is designed to express the character of the whole: it is generally

decorated with statues or pictures, and, like the elegant staircase and

the various apartments, is appropriated to the use of the family and

guests, who have the good taste rather to wait on themselves than to

have an attendant spirit always at their heels. The servants live in a

large room in a remote part of the house, generally on the ground-floor,

where all, male and female, eat together, and where the bells of the

whole house are placed. They are suspended in a row on the wall,

numbered so that it is immediately seen in what room any one has rung:

a sort of pendulum[110] is attached to each, which continues to vibrate

for ten minutes after the sound has ceased to remind the sluggish of

their duty. The females of the establishment have also a large common

room, in which, when they have nothing else to do, they sew, knit, and

spin: close to this is a closet for washing the glass and china which

comes within their province. Each of them, as well as of the

men-servants, has her separate bed-chamber in the highest story. Only

the 'housekeeper' and the 'butler' have distinct apartments below.

Immediately adjoining that of the housekeeper, is a room where coffee is

made, and the store-room containing every thing requisite for breakfast,

which important meal, in England, belongs especially to her department.

On the other side of the building is the washing establishment, with a

small court-yard attached; it consists of three rooms, the first for

washing, the second for ironing, the third, which is considerably

loftier, and heated by steam, for drying the linen in bad weather. Near

the butler's room is his pantry, a spacious fire-proof room, with

closets on every side for the reception of the plate which he cleans

here, and the glass and china used at dinner, which must be delivered

back into his custody as soon as it is washed by the women. All these

arrangements are executed with the greatest punctuality. A locked

staircase leads from the pantry into the beer and wine cellar, which is

likewise under the butler's jurisdiction.

I followed a very romantic road, which led me through the park, and then

along the bank of a beautifully wooded mountain stream, and in about an

hour arrived at the slate quarry, which lies in the midst of the

mountains, six miles from the castle. From what I have already told you,

you may imagine what a vast work this is. Five or six high terraces of

great extent rise one above another on the side of the mountain; along

these swarm men, machines, trains of a hundred wagons attached together

and rolling rapidly along the iron railways, cranes drawing up heavy

loads, water courses, &c. It took me a considerable time to give even a

hasty glance at this busy and complicated scene. In order to reach a

remote part of the works, where they were then blasting rocks with

gunpowder,--a process which I had a great desire to see,--I was obliged

to lie down in one of the little iron wagons which serve for the

conveyance of the slate, and are drawn by means of a windlass through a

gallery hewn in the solid rock, only four feet in height, four hundred

paces in length, and pitch dark. It is a most disagreeable sensation to

be dragged through this narrow passage at full speed, and in Egyptian

darkness, after having had ample opportunity of seeing at the entrance

the thousand abrupt jagged projections by which one is surrounded. Few

strangers make the experiment, spite of the tranquillizing assurances of

the guide who rides before. It is impossible to get rid of the idea that

if one came in contact with any of these salient points, one would, in

all probability, make one's egress without a head. After passing through

this gallery, I had to walk along a path at the edge of the precipice,

only two feet wide, and without any railing or defence; then to pass

through a second low cavern, when I reached the fearfully magnificent

scene of operations.

It was like a subterranean world! Above the blasted walls of slate,

smooth as a mirror, and several hundred feet high, scarcely enough of

the blue heaven was visible to enable me to distinguish mid-day from

twilight. The earth on which we stood was likewise blasted rock; just in

the middle was a deep cleft six or eight feet wide. Some children of the

workmen were amusing themselves in leaping across this chasm, for the

sake of earning a few pence. The perpendicular sides were hung with

men, who looked like dark birds, striking the rock with their long

picks, and throwing down masses of slate which fell with a sharp and

clattering sound. But on a sudden the whole mountain seemed to totter,

loud cries of warning re-echoed from various points,--the mine was

sprung. A large mass of rock loosened itself slowly and majestically

from above, fell down with a mighty plunge, and while dust and splinters

darkened the air like smoke, the thunder rang around in wild echoes.

These operations, which are of almost daily necessity in one part or

other of the quarry, are so dangerous, that, according to the statement

of the overseer himself, they calculate on an average of one hundred and

fifty men wounded, and seven or eight killed in a year. An hospital,

exclusively devoted to the workmen on this property, receives the

wounded; and on my way I had met, without being aware of it, the body of

one who had fallen the day before yesterday; 'car c'est comme un champ

de bataille.' The people who escorted it were so smartly dressed and so

decorated with flowers, that I at first took the procession for a

wedding, and was shocked when, in answer to my inquiry for the

bridegroom, one of the attendants pointed in silence to the coffin which

followed at some distance. The overseer assured me that half these

accidents were owing to the indifference of the men, who are too

careless to remove in time and to a sufficient distance, though at every

explosion they have full warning given them. The slate invariably splits

in sharp-edged flakes, so that an inconsiderable piece thrown to a great

distance, is often sufficient to cut a man's hand, leg, or even head,

clean off. On one occasion, this last, as I was assured, actually

happened.

As we ourselves were not far enough from the 'foyer,' I instantly obeyed

the signal, and turned on the left through the infernal gallery, to

inspect the more peaceful operations: these are extremely varied and

interesting. Paper cannot be cut more neatly and rapidly than slates are

here; and no deal board can split more easily and delicately than the

blocks which the workmen with one single stroke of the mallet divide

into slices, from three to four feet in breadth, as thin as the thinnest

pasteboard. The rough blocks come from the region I have just described,

down Parisian 'montagnes russes' to the stone-hewer; and, as in those,

the downward impetus of the loaded wagons sends them up again when

empty. The iron railways are not here, as they commonly are, concave,

but convex, and the wagon wheels correspond.

_July 17th._

The day has passed in rest, writing, and reading; so that it affords few

materials. But before I go to bed I must indulge the delightful habit of

chatting with you. I was just thinking of home, and our honoured friend

L----, who is now travelling, and has sent me a whole volume of his

former lucubrations. Shall I send you a specimen? Listen then.

"REFLECTIONS OF A PIOUS SOUL OF SANDOMIR, OR SANDOMICH.[111]

"1. _On occasion of the quantity of Schnapps drunk at my expense by the

Saxon postillions._

"How much better is our country in all respects than any other! Really

one witnesses strange things! For instance, it is certainly an

extraordinary circumstance,--and yet after repeated experience I cannot

doubt it,--that when the horses here are tired and lazy, (which, alas!

is too often the case,) the postilion has only to drink Schnapps, to

render them brisk and active. The wisdom of Nature and her hidden powers

are unfathomable! The above-mentioned phenomenon may perhaps be

elucidated by the well-known fact, that wine begins to ferment in the

cask when the vine blossoms.[112] At the last stage before Torgau, my

companion Count S----, Lieutenant of the Guards, from Potsdam, upon whom

the light of Grace hath not yet broken, and who consequently is unduly

moved by worldly things, was so angry with the postilion that he shook

his stick at him, and called him a Saxon dog. 'O Lord! no, sir,'

answered the fellow stupidly; 'there you're mistaken--we have been

Prussian dogs these ten years and more.' This is a plain proof that the

people here are entirely destitute of that high civilization which

prevails among us.

"2. _After my signal deliverance on the 6th of July, 1827._

"For four weeks I have not been able to write! With thankfulness and

deep inward feeling I now take up my pen for the first time, to set

forth the wonderful dispensation I have experienced. As I was travelling

to M---- last month, I was overturned directly before the door of the

tollhouse, and broke my right arm. My first exclamation--I confess it to

my shame--was a shocking curse: but my second, thanks, fervent thanks to

the Creator that I had broken my arm and not my neck. In such events we

clearly perceive the 'unfathomable ways' and the protecting arm of

Providence, which is ever at hand to help us at the moment of need. Did

not my life hang upon a hair? and was it not the Lord's pleasure herein

to give me an impressive proof that it depends on him alone to close my

eyes for ever, or still to preserve my young life, which perhaps (for

what is impossible to him?) is reserved for great and weighty things?

Yes, ye philosophers, with heartfelt joy and triumph do I feel it, Faith

alone makes us happy.

"3. _On occasion of my being nearly drowned in the Elbe, near Torgau._

"Certain it is that we ought not to venture into the water till we can

swim, as a Grecian sage hath very justly remarked. I was so imprudent as

to bathe yesterday without having acquired this art, for I ever kept

myself far aloof from all revolutionary gymnastics and exercises of that

sort, and being seized with a cramp in the calf of my leg, and

consequently somewhat frightened, I should perhaps now be among the

dead, had it not been for a man whom Heaven led in this direction,

_exactly at this time_, for my preservation. Can I be blind at such

repeated proofs of special interposition in my favour? The whole Elbe

is, nevertheless, become rather disagreeable to me. I strive with this

as a blameable feeling, since we ought to recollect how useful this

river is to many of our fellow-creatures.[113] The remark has I believe

been made before, but it nevertheless is not the less worthy of

attention--that wherever we find a large city, we almost invariably find

a great river by the side of it;--but so wisely, so graciously has a

kind Providence arranged all things for our good, though we men

acknowledge it but too seldom! Yes, Nature, like a good mother, has

taken care for all. To the bee she gave her sting, to the beaver his

tail, to the lion his strength, to the ass patience; but to man his

lofty understanding, and--on subjects which this, with our deceitful

reason, cannot reach--divine revelations. O how thankful do I always

feel when I think rightly on this! I, who moreover have so much more

cause than numbers of my brethren to be thankful for the manifold bodily

and mental advantages I enjoy. May I never forget them!--Amen.

"4. _On occasion of my being forced to pay Abraham the Jew my twice

prolonged bill, with 'alterum tantum.'_

"I have been sorely disquieted by the doubt, whether the Jews are really

to remain to the end of the world; and, in spite of the curse which lies

upon them, scattered and oppressed as they are on earth, to continue for

ever to cheat us so astonishingly as they do.

"Yet is not this very doubt a sin? since we are assured in many holy

books that this will certainly be the case. Besides, the conversion of

these misguided wretches is now proceeding from our country, whence the

greatest light formerly went forth. But alas! here a new fearful doubt

besets me: Will all the inhabitants of the earth ever _be called_

Christians? It is indeed so declared: but in the course of my learned

studies I lately met with a calculation which, to my horror, showed me

that out of eight hundred millions of souls on the earth, only two

hundred millions are called by the true name. Let us hope, however, that

the worthy and admirable Bible Societies will do their part, and not

weary. The English cannot be truly in earnest in this matter, seeing

that as yet they have hardly made a convert in India. It is probable

that they, as usual, have only political ends in view.[114] I read

lately, that a Hindoo audaciously answered a missionary who was trying

to convert him, 'I shall not suffer myself to be converted to

Christianity by you, till you consent to be converted to the religion of

Brama by me. I believe in the truth of my religion, as you believe in

the truth of yours; and what is right for one, is fair for the other.

Some fables and abuses may perhaps have crept into both, but they are of

the same family.' What dreadful views! I myself, who,--I say it without

vain-glory,--persuaded an old Jew, whose trade had fallen off, to be

baptized, (for which I still allow him a pension,) sought also to

contribute my mite by the spiritual change of a _real_ Indian, who after

many wonderful adventures had been driven into our hyperborean regions,

where the Herrnhuters had long, though vainly, laboured at his

conversion. He heard me very patiently; and, to say the truth, I was so

carried away by the momentous nature of the circumstance, that I

wondered at my own eloquence. But what was the result? he smiled at me,

took my gift, shook his head like a Chinese idol, and left me without an

answer.

"P. S. I have just heard, to my inexpressible horror, that the Jew I

converted is dead: and being seized on his death-bed by pangs of

conscience (would any body think it possible?) turned Jew again.

"5. _On returning from Madame R----'s funeral._

"A most remarkable incident occurred here a few days ago. About ten

years since a pretty and, what is far more important, a pious young

woman served in a confectioner's shop. Although exposed by her sweet

occupation to many temptations, (for all young men who frequent

confectioners' shops have not my morals,) she would listen to no one,

and found all her pleasure in godliness. She never missed a

prayer-meeting at President S----'s, or at any other house where she

could gain admittance; and above all, went to church at least once every

Sunday. One Sunday, however, (it was St. Martin's day if I mistake not,)

she forgot her duty and staid at home, busied with worldly attire. Then

did the Tempter draw near in the form of a young man, to whom she had

long been secretly attached. It seems probable that on that fatal day he

made great advances in her favour, since they were shortly after

married. At first they lived very happily, and had several children. By

degrees she exhibited a sensible falling off in piety, in consequence of

the cares and distractions of married life. The unhappy woman appeared

greatly attached to her duties as wife and mother, and henceforth

preferred them to the comfort of prayer-meetings and pious readings. But

the consequences of her carnal-mindedness soon appeared: her husband was

assailed by numerous and, as I am assured, otherwise undeserved

misfortunes; some of her children died; the whole family fell into

poverty; and the husband, at length, into the deepest melancholy. Last

Sunday, exactly on the tenth anniversary of that fatal Sunday on which

the misguided girl did _not_ go to church, her husband in a paroxysm of

madness horribly murdered himself and his wife.--Here may be seen that

the divine wrath if slow, is so much the more sure. I refrain from all

severe animadversions:--but he who is not rendered serious by this

warning, who does not see how sinful and dangerous it is to neglect,

even for once, regular attendance at church, is truly an object of my

pity. He can be made wise only by his own suffering; and well is it for

him if he become so in time!

"6. _On my last disappointment at D----._

"I am very unfortunate in love,--a circumstance which it is difficult to

understand; but it is nevertheless true that another of my best laid

plans has miscarried!

"For a long time I had loved Miss M---- with all the fire of my

impetuous character. I did not venture to declare it; but my eyes, which

I fixed upon her for hours with languishing tenderness, spoke too

plainly not to be understood. Nevertheless, I had never been able to win

aught but a scornful smile from my adored fair; when an important epoch,

viz. her eighteenth birthday, arrived. I determined now to lay storm to

her heart by some distinguished act of gallantry--which I could do with

the greater propriety, and without any stings of conscience, since I

never entertain any but the most virtuous designs. I now meditated long

what to choose;--roses, and all sorts of botanical presents, as fruit

and the like, are so common-place;--dress would not do, for that would

have looked like an insinuation that I thought her vain;--still less

could I offer her any thing costly, which would have appeared an

indirect accusation of a mercenary spirit: I dared not choose a pious

hymn-book, or other godly work, lest I should sinfully profane what is

holy by using it with an earthly aim;--no, it must be something tender,

and containing a delicate allusion to our situation. Suddenly, like a

flash of lightning in a dark night, the thought occurred to me that the

season of new herrings was at hand. The word electrified me, and, with

the wonted rapidity of my conceptions, I instantly saw the meaning which

lay hidden. I immediately sent an estafette to Berlin, where, as is well

known, every thing new is to be had, in order, if possible, to get the

above-mentioned creatures of the Lord before the annual advertisement of

them appeared in the two blotting-paper journals of that city. Every

thing succeeded according to my wishes:--ere many days had elapsed, a

couple lay before me. I had them laid upon some leaves of artificial

'forget-me-not,' instead of parsley, and once more reflected upon all

that their mute language (I mean the herrings') could convey.

"It would perhaps appear too far-fetched were I to urge how _herring_

resembles _hymen_; these words having clearly an etymological relation,

since both begin with a great H,[115] and a little _n_ occurs in both.

But there was one circumstance which spoke plainer, viz. that they were

a _couple_--the principal point of view from which they were to be

regarded. The blue colour, which reminds us of heaven, signified our

mutual gentleness and meekness; and the strong salt wherewith they were

salted, the acuteness of our understandings, and our attic wit. The

unfading leaves cried aloud, 'Forget me not!' and at the same time

clearly alluded to that never-fading delight we should find in each

other! But in my opinion the crown of the whole was the pretty play of

words which is in the name itself--_herring_--_here-ring_. It was

impossible for me to declare my love and my honourable intentions more

plainly, and at the same time more delicately, (in every sense of the

word, for new herrings are a great delicacy in Prussia and Saxony.) To

make all doubly sure, however, I laid on them a beautiful rose, painted

and cut out of Chinese rice-paper, in the leaves of which I concealed

with a trembling hand the first effort of my youthful muse, in which I

expressed all these tender and delicate ideas.

"Who could believe that all would be in vain! The mother answered me in

plain prose, briefly and carelessly, that her daughter was very sorry

that she had always had an idiosyncratical antipathy to herrings; so

strong indeed, that she had not been able to sit out the last play of

the celebrated Wilibald Alexis, having accidentally heard that his real

name was Herring. She therefore sent me back my fish and the

accompanying poetry, with many thanks for my good intentions.

"Happily, godliness consoles a spirit truly possessed by it for every

thing; but I was obliged to read the Bible two hours before I recovered

my accustomed patience and composure. I read for my edification the

history of Jonas; and although the whale which swallowed him was so very

large, it continually disappeared in my fancy before the luckless

herrings.

"In my anger (which alas! I have not yet completely conquered) I must

now censure some things in the two blotting-paper periodicals above

mentioned. They ought not only to strive after a more correct

orthography in their advertisements, but to pay some attention to the

sense. In a collection of natural curiosities made by a Berlin friend of

mine, I find two of the above-named newspapers, containing the two

following notices of deaths inserted by the same unfortunate father; and

an old advertisement of a concert.

1. 'This day the Lord, on his journey through Tettow, took to himself my

youngest son Fritz, with his teeth.'

2. (A month later). 'This day the Lord again took to himself my daughter

Agnes to eternal blessedness.'

3. 'On Monday a concert will be given at the theatre. The receipts are

to serve as the basis of a fund destined for the support of our

countrymen who fell in defence of their country.'

"Now I ask anybody whether this is not making death

ludicrous,--certainly a grievous sin, even when done unintentionally."

So far friend L----.

But the night grows pale--already the morning dawns. I must say,

therefore, like Moore, it is day--therefore good night. I send you this

long letter, which an acquaintance takes to London to-morrow morning,

through our embassy; and with it a hearty kiss, which I hope the

P---- custom-house will suffer to pass undisputed.

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 128 / 212 题