LETTER XXII.

_London, Feb. 28th, 1828._

I must go back to mention to you an acquaintance I made at Brighton,

which in one point of view is interesting. You have no doubt heard that

an ancestor of the Thelluson family made a will, according to which his

property was to accumulate for a hundred and fifty years, interest upon

interest, and the then existing young Thelluson to come into possession

of the whole. In twenty years this term will expire; and I saw the

present Mr. Thelluson, a man of forty, who has very little; and his son,

a pretty boy of eight, who is probably destined in his twenty-eighth

year to be master of twelve millions sterling,--ninety four millions of

our money. An act of Parliament has prohibited all such wills for the

future; but could not invalidate this, though great efforts were made to

do so. So enormous a fortune certainly invests a private man with a very

unnatural degree of power. However, I could not help heartily wishing

good luck to the little fellow, with his splendid hopes. There is really

something grand in having such enormous wealth; for it cannot be denied

that money is the representative of most things in the world. What

marvellous objects might be attained by such a fortune well applied!

Next to this young Croesus 'in spe,' I was interested by a man of very

original character, Colonel C----, who was here some days. Lady M----

directed my attention to him, and told me as follows: "When I was young,

the elegant middle-aged man you see there, was one of the most admired

beaux of the metropolis. After he had run through all his fortune, with

the exception of a few thousand pounds, chance one day led him before a

map of America, and the thought suddenly struck him that he would go

there and turn backwoodsman. He examined the map, and fixed on a

solitary spot on Lake Erie, sold all his effects the same week, married

his servant to a pretty young girl, embarked with them, and arrived in

safety at the spot he had chosen in the primeval woods, where he lived

for a few days by hunting, and slept under the leafy canopy: with the

help of some backwoodsmen he soon built a log-house, which he still

inhabits. He acquired a considerable influence over the settlers

scattered around him, which he employed in encouraging them to their

joint labours, and rendered himself peculiarly agreeable to them by

playing the part of cook, and preparing palatable food, instead of the

half-raw meat they used to eat. He sees an increasing and attached

population spring up around him, is proprietor of a little principality

in extent, calculates his income at ten thousand a year, and comes

regularly every tenth year, for 'one season,' to England, where he

lives, as formerly, with all the 'aisance' of a fashionable man of the

world, and then returns to his woods."

My first visit in the metropolis was to Countess M----, who, 'malgré ses

quarantes ans,' has added another child to her dozen during my absence.

I dined there, and admired a beautiful present of plate from the King,

the workmanship of which is finer here than anywhere, so that the cost

of the labour is often ten times that of the metal. At dinner the Count

told a curious anecdote, characteristic of the administration of justice

in this country.

"A man whom I know," said he, "had his pocket-handkerchief stolen in the

street. He seized the thief, and, being the stronger, held him fast,

though not without receiving several violent blows; and at length gave

him into the charge of a police officer who came up. The transaction was

perfectly clear, and passed in the presence of many witnesses; and the

delinquent, if prosecuted, would have been transported. His wife went to

the gentleman, begged for mercy on her knees: the thief himself, who was

not an uneducated man, wrote the most moving letters,--and who will

wonder that he at length found pity? On the appointed day the prosecutor

staid away, and the criminal was accordingly acquitted.

"The gentleman paid dearly enough for his ill-timed compassion. A

fortnight after this transaction, he was prosecuted, by the very man who

picked his pocket, for an assault, which was proved on the testimony of

several witnesses. The defendant replied, that it was certainly true

that he had seized the man, but that he had done so only because he had

caught him in the act of picking his pocket. But as the criminal had

already been acquitted of this, and no man can be twice tried for the

same offence, no notice was taken of the justification. In short, it

cost the too generous sufferer about a hundred pounds, which he had to

pay partly to the man who robbed him, and partly to the Court." The

whole company thought this sort of justice monstrous; but an old

Englishman defended it with great warmth and pertinacity. "I think,"

exclaimed he earnestly, "that the incident just related, exactly goes to

illustrate the wisdom of our laws in the most striking manner. All laws

and judicial authorities are instituted solely for the purpose of

preventing crime. This is also the sole end of punishment. The receiver

of stolen goods is therefore, in the eye of the law, nearly as guilty as

the thief; and he who knowingly tries to rescue a criminal from the

grasp of the law, is almost as pernicious to the community as the

criminal himself. That man who, perhaps, began his career of crime with

the stealing of this pocket-handkerchief, and therefore ought to have

been withdrawn from society for penitence and amendment, now, emboldened

by success, is probably planning a larger theft,--perhaps a murder. Who

ought to bear the blame? This very gentleman,--who has been deservedly

punished for his illegal pity. He who thrusts his hand uncalled for and

inconsiderately between the wheels of a useful machine, must not wonder

if he breaks his fingers."

The English are, it must be confessed, most skilful sophists, whenever

their usages are called in question. The most distinguished man among

them, however, Brougham, lately made a speech of six hours long, which

treated entirely of the defects and abuses of English law. The most

stupendous of these seemed to be, that there is now in 'the Court of

Chancery' the enormous sum of fifty millions sterling, which has no

actual determined owner. A suit in this Court is become proverbial for

something interminable; and there is a very diverting caricature, which

bears the inscription, 'A Chancery Suit.' At first a young man

handsomely dressed, and in high blooming health, fills the hat of a

starved skeleton of a lawyer with guineas, by way of retaining fee. A

long, long procession of men and things follows; and at last we see the

young man as a ragged broken-down beggar, asking alms of the lawyer, now

grown fat as a tun, which the latter scornfully refuses. 'Hélas, c'est

encore tout comme chez nous,' only in more corpulent proportions.

On many things, however, which appear to foreigners most exasperating,

they ought to take care not to form too hasty a judgment, since abuses

and even obvious original defects are often only the inevitable shadows

of a far greater light;--as, for instance, bribery at

elections,--perhaps even the 'rotten boroughs,' and the acknowledged

dependence of a considerable portion of the members of parliament on

Government, by means of 'patronage,' and so forth. It seems to be quite

a question whether any Ministry could stand without these means,

apparently so pernicious. It is, however, something gained, that a

Government should not have that conceded in theory (as it is in despotic

states) which nevertheless, perhaps, they cannot quite dispense with in

practice;--as the preacher's life never quite comes up to his doctrine.

We must not forget that an approach to perfection is all that can be

expected from human things; and therefore reformers ought carefully to

keep in mind 'que le mieux est l'ennemi du bien.' Nevertheless, I think

I see many indications that England is advancing towards a reform; and

indeed, that it is, from various causes, quite inevitable. Whether it

will end advantageously for her, or not, is another question. Perhaps

the very necessity is a proof that she has outlived her highest

greatness, and is already declining.

In the evening I visited the Adelphi Theatre, where a juggler exhibited

his feats of art in a very new manner, under the title of

'Conversazioni.' He stood surrounded by various tables and machines on

the stage, and began with a history of his journey in the Diligence:

into this he introduced various characters and anecdotes, sang songs,

and interspersed his narrative with tricks, or optical deceptions, or

phantasmagoria, as appropriate incidents,--a good idea enough, which

increases the interest of such exhibitions. His dexterity and certainty

as a juggler were moreover as remarkable as his good dramatic acting and

his memory. He concluded with playing on the musical glasses; not only

in the harmonica style, but waltzes and the like; and even introduced

long shakes, which he executed admirably.

_March 9th._

The season already asserts its prerogative. The streets swarm with

elegant equipages; the shops spread forth fresh treasures; all the

houses are full, and all prices raised doubly and trebly. Mr. Peel the

Minister gave a brilliant soirée this evening to the Duchess of

Clarence. His house is decorated with many fine pictures, among which is

Rubens' famous 'Chapeau de paille.' Mr. Peel gave fifteen thousand

reichsthalers for this picture--a half-length.

I went with Prince E---- yesterday to see the small private collection

of a clergyman (Mr. Carr,) which consists of not above thirty pictures,

has cost him twenty thousand pounds, and is quite worth it. There are as

many master-pieces as pictures,--the only true sort of collection for a

private man, who does not use his gallery for instruction in the art,

but for enjoyment.

Here is a Garoffolo, of such unearthly transparency and brightness, of

so holy and deep a poetry, that you think you behold a picture of Eden,

not of this earth; and a large Claude, also of the highest order of

beauty, in which the smallness of the means employed are as wonderful as

the extraordinary effects produced. In an adjoining room were some

beautiful landscapes by Domenichino and Annibal Caracci. The richness of

composition, the deepness and freshness of invention, were adorned with

such a fantastic charm and such variety of details, that I could have

lost myself all day long in these strange regions, with their broad

watery mirrors; their islands, groves and pretty huts; their deep blue

mountains, and forests of spectral darkness. In a third room you reach

the crown of the whole collection, a picture by Leonardo da Vinci, in

which he has represented, in the three persons of the Saviour, Peter and

John, the Ideal of youth, manhood, and old age; all of a beauty, truth,

and perfection, which leaves nothing to desire. It is the only head of

Christ, of all I ever saw, which fully satisfies me; it is as strikingly

expressive of grandeur and force of mind, as of purity and meekness;

while at the same time it unites this speaking expression with perfect

ideal beauty. The grouping of the whole, too, is so satisfactory to the

eye; the colouring so brilliant and so fresh; the execution, down to the

smallest details so masterly,--that one feels a fulness of delight such

as few works of art bestow.[82] But nothing remains of the exquisite

pleasure of contemplating such a work, save a cold dissection of it by

words. I will therefore quit the subject; only I wish to make

connoisseurs better acquainted with this choice collection.

There is an exhibition of battles by Generat Lejeune, which he first

fought, and then painted. They show great talent and power. In the

battle of the Moskwa, the theatrical Murat and his suite form the

principal group; he, streaming with feathers, ringlets, fringe, and

embroidery,--standing, with his self-satisfied air, under a fire of

musketry; he is in the act of giving the order to the French and Saxon

cuirassiers for that murderous attack, and the storming of a battery of

forty guns, which cost so many their lives, and among them my beloved

friend H----. The King is just about to put himself at the head of them.

Who could then have predicted that he would so soon be ignominiously

beaten by a mob, and shot as a criminal?

Deeply affecting, though too horrible for art, is the figure of an

Austrian staff-officer at the battle of Marengo, who has been shot

through the belly, so that the bowels are lying on the ground. The

unfortunate wretch, to escape from his insufferable torture, has

entreated a French 'gens d'arme' to lend him his pistol, which he is

putting to his mouth with a look of despair, while the owner of the

weapon turns away shuddering.

In another picture is the onslaught of a party of Spanish guerillas on a

French detachment. You see a most romantic pass in the mountains of

Catalonia, remarkable for four stone oxen, the erection of which is

ascribed to Hannibal. At their feet lie two or three skeletons of French

cuirassiers, still in full armour. Not a soul escaped this slaughter

except General Lejeune himself, and this only by a half-miracle;--three

of the guns aimed at him missed, which the Empecinado superstitiously

took for a warning, and commanded the men not to fire at him again. You

see General Lejeune stripped naked; one murderer has caught him by the

hair, another is treading on his body, and the arms of the others are

pointed against him; while his servants and a soldier, pierced through

and through by pikes and swords, breathe their last at his side.

The battle of the Nile,--where the Mamelukes, in half-frantic flight,

spur their noble Arabian horses from a high hill down into the river,

whence but a few reach the opposite bank,--has also a very romantic

effect.

_March 13th._

I forgot to tell you that about a fortnight ago the elegant little

Brunswick Theatre, scarcely finished, fell in during the rehearsal of a

new piece, and destroyed a great many lives. I went to look at the ruins

yesterday; the carcasses of two cart-horses, which had been crushed in

the street were still lying under the rubbish. It was a fearful sight.

Only one single box remained standing; in this, Farren the actor saved

himself, by his coolness in not stirring from the spot.--Thence he saw

the whole horrible catastrophe,--only too real and unexpected a tragedy.

In the whirl of the season it's all forgotten. Yet this tumultuous life

furnishes far less stuff for thought than might be imagined; and what it

does furnish, is soon forgotten in the confusion.

A family dinner at the great R----'s, who has been likened to the

Sultan, because the one is the Ruler of all Believers, and the other the

Believer in all Rulers, occurred as a variety. This man has really

something very original about him. He was peculiarly merry to-day;

ordered the servant to bring his new Austrian consular uniform, which

"his friend M----ch," as he said, had sent him from Vienna; showed it

to us, and even suffered himself to be persuaded to try it on before the

looking-glass, and to walk about in it. And, as virtuosi when they have

once begun never know when to stop, he now sent for other magnificent

Court dresses, and changed his toilette several times, as if he had been

on the stage:--and that with such child-like good-nature and naïveté,

that I could only compare such a golden hero with Henry the Fourth,

found by the foreign ambassadors acting as horse to his little son.

It was, 'au reste,' rather droll to see how this otherwise serious

tradesman-like man tried to assume the various bendings and bowings, and

the light and gracious air, of a courtier; and, not in the least

disconcerted by our laughing, assured us, with as much confidence as

joviality, that N---- M---- R----, if he liked, could act any part;

and, with the help of five or six glasses of wine extra, could make as

good a figure at Court as the best of them.

An acquaintance I made a few days ago had a very different sort of

interest for me,--I mean that of General Mina. You have seen several

portraits of him, all of which represent him with huge mustachios and

wild features, like a ferocious captain of brigands. Think then of my

astonishment at seeing, in the hero of Spain, a mild, simple, and

singularly modest man, without the slightest trace of what is called a

military 'tournure;' on the contrary, like a country schoolmaster or

farmer, with an open good natured countenance, and blushing at every

compliment paid him, like a girl. When he grew animated with

conversation, I, however, remarked a change in his features and a

lightning of his dark eye, which betrayed the spirit within.

He is in very good preservation, and has scarcely the air of a man of

forty, though his short hair is quite white; but this by no means makes

him look old,--it only gives him the appearance of being powdered. He

said, in the course of conversation, that he never had that luxuriant

bush of hair to boast, which people are so fond of bestowing upon him,

and that he had often laughed at the caricatures which he saw of himself

in the shop-windows.

There were two other distinguished Spaniards present:

Arguelles,--Minister under the Constitutional Government, and the most

celebrated popular orator of Spain--a man of most prepossessing

appearance and polished manners; and General Valdez, Commandant of Cadiz

during the last siege. It was he who took the beloved Ferdinand on board

his ship, (he being then senior Admiral of the Fleet) to the French

camp. Though as he said, before and during the voyage the King

overwhelmed him with caresses, repeatedly expressed his thanks for the

treatment he had received in Cadiz, and made great promises for the

future, the fate of poor Valdez was already sealed. "The moment the King

quitted my ship," continued Valdez, "his behaviour suddenly changed; and

as soon as he felt himself secure, he cast a piercing look of triumph

and of long suppressed rage at me. _I knew this look_, and instantly

took my resolution. Without waiting to deliberate or take leave, I

sprang on board my ship, and set sail instantly for Cadiz. I thus

probably escaped death: but my exile here, in poverty and

wretchedness,--far from my unhappy country,--is, for a man of sixty,

accustomed to wealth and greatness, perhaps a greater evil."

I must now take you again to the theatre, and in the company, too, of

the celebrated Lord L----, an old acquaintance of mine, who, after his

varied and busy career, now preserves himself by daily washing with

vinegar; whereas he used formerly to pickle others in a sauce as sour

and pungent as that of the former 'Confiseur' of the _Elegante Zeitung_,

both in writing and by word of mouth. We talked of past times; and as we

reached the door of Drury Lane, he recited some wild but beautiful

verses of Moore's.[83]* * *

* * * * *

They are nearly as follows, in my usual halting verse--translations of

the moment.[84]

* * * * *

* * * * *

No bad motto for Desdemona, which awaited us; though truly the Moor's

was a fearful return for such devoted love.

Before I go to the performance itself, let me make a few general

remarks.

It is a constantly contested point in Germany, whether Shakspeare should

be given in a literal translation, in a free one, or in a still freer

paraphrase. I decide for the second; premising that the liberty should

be restricted to this,--unfettered scope in the spirit of the German

tongue,--even though a play of wit or words should occasionally be lost

by the means. But to alter in any considerable degree the course of the

play; to omit scenes; to give to Shakspeare words and ideas perfectly

foreign to him,--can only deform and mutilate him, even when done by the

greatest poet. People say Shakspeare is better to read than to see, and

cannot be performed in a literal translation without carrying us back to

the infancy of the scenic art; since, as they maintain, theatrical

representations in Shakspeare's time were no more than stories in

dialogue, with some attempt at costume. I will not go into the question

of the accuracy of this assertion; but thus much I know,--that the

representation of Romeo and Juliet, Macbeth, Hamlet, and Othello, on the

English stage,--all which pieces are given with slight omissions, and in

which things generally supposed the most shocking to taste and

probability, even the obligato king's trumpeters, are not

wanting,--nevertheless leave a feeling of such full and untroubled

satisfaction on my mind, as reading or hearing read (even by Tieck, the

best reader I know of,) never had the power to produce in the most

distant degree;--nay, still more, I confess that it is only since I have

see them _here_, that I have been sensible of all Shakspeare's gigantic

proportions in their full amplitude. It is true, that to produce this, a

degree of concert on the part of all the actors and an excellence in

those who support the chief characters are necessary, which are wholly

wanting in Germany;--for Macbeths in Berlin, (as Clauren would say,) and

Macbeths in London, are as different sort of people as Shaskpeare

himself and his excellent commentator Franz Horn. The first actors here,

such as Kean, Kemble, Young, &c., are, as I have elsewhere remarked, men

of great cultivation, who have seen the best society, and devoted their

lives to the earnest study of their great national poet. They seldom act

any other characters than his, and do not mix up a tragic hero with one

of Iffland's _Geheimenräthe_ (privy councillors,) nor Talbot with Herr

von Langsalm, nor appear to-day in Othello, and to-morrow in Wollmarkt.

It strikes one as very singular, that in appearance, and to a great

extent in reality, the public before whom these distinguished artists

have to present themselves is so rude, ignorant and unmannerly. Yet

perhaps this very thing may produce a good effect on them. As the truly

virtuous love virtue, so must an English actor love his art,--for its

own sake alone,--and trouble himself little about his reception: in the

end, he is thus most sure to obtain universal applause. And indeed I

must confess that, spite of all this roughness, there is a portion of

English audiences which has at bottom sounder taste and sense than the

feeble, hyper-refined people of our German metropolitan towns; nay, even

among the vulgar crowd there is an invisible church of the initiated,

whose existence never suffers the sacred fire in the breast of the

actors to be wholly extinguished; it is not very busy in public

criticism, but has a mighty effect in society.

Many Germans don't like to be told that other nations excel us in any

thing: and truly I perceive the fact with great regret: but that must

not prevent my speaking out my conviction, that, as we have no dramatic

poet of Shakspeare's calibre, so we possess no actor capable of making

his characters live before our eyes in their full significancy. It was

not always so, as it is asserted; and I myself have retained impressions

received in my earliest youth from Fleck and Unzelmann, which have never

been renewed in Germany. Schröder and Eckhof seem to have stood yet

higher; and I remember with singular pleasure the enthusiastic

descriptions given me of them by old Archenholz, who had also seen

Garrick. He thought Schröder at least Garrick's equal.

That in order to form anything like a correct judgment of foreign

actors, we must first in some degree throw ourselves in thought into

their nationality;[85] must accustom ourselves to many of their manners

and usages, which, like many turns of their language, always affect us

as strange, however well we may understand them,--will be admitted by

every thinking man. At first, these causes always more or less distract

the attention; and I never saw more than one individual who, (if I may

use the expression,) had a perfectly cosmopolitan organization,--the

perhaps never-equalled, certainly never-surpassed, Miss O'Neil. In her

it was only the pure abstract human mind and soul that spoke;--nation,

time and external appearance, vanished from the thoughts in an ecstacy

which carried all before it.

But back to the present.

We saw Othello, then; in which the combined acting of the three greatest

dramatic artists of England afforded me a high intellectual treat, and

has elicited this somewhat long 'expectoration;' but caused me to feel

most painfully the want of the above-mentioned heroine. Had she been

there, I should have witnessed the highest point of all theatrical

representation. Kean, Young, and Kemble, compose the ruling triumvirate

of the English stage. The first has without doubt the most genius; the

second is brilliant and sustained in his acting; the third, though less

distinguished in the highest tragedy, uniformly dignified and

intelligent. This representation of Othello was the first time of their

playing together. It was indeed a rare enjoyment! Othello and Shylock

are Kean's greatest parts. It is amazing with what profound knowledge of

the human heart he not only portrays the passion of jealousy,--first

slumbering, then gradually awaking, and ending in madness; but with what

wondrous accuracy he catches the Southern nature of the Moor,--the

peculiar characteristics of the race, and never for a moment loses sight

of them. In the midst of the high and noble bearing of the hero,

something animal occasionally peeps forth that makes us shudder, while

on the other hand it gives force to his agonizing torment, and places it

bodily before our eyes. The simplicity of his acting at first, the

absence of all bragging about his past achievements, and his intense

love for the woman of his choice, win the hearts of the spectators as

they have won that of Desdemona: the ugly Moor is forgotten in the

complete, heroic man; till, amid the torments of lacerating jealousy,

that hidden fierce nature slowly reveals itself to our eyes; and at

length we think we see before us a raging tiger, rather than a being of

like nature with ourselves. I was here confirmed anew in my persuasion,

that a great poet, still more than a moderate one, stands in need of a

great actor to make him perfectly understood and estimated. In Berlin,

for instance, the strangling scene was not only ludicrous, but really

indecent. Here, the blood froze in one's veins; and even the boisterous

and turbulent English public was for a time speechless, motionless--as

if struck by lightning. Nay, I must acknowledge that sometimes during

the tragedy, Othello's long torment, which the fiend-like Iago with such

devilish calmness doles out to him drop by drop, was so painful, and the

terror of what I knew was to follow grew upon me so involuntarily, that

I turned away my face as from a scene too horrible to contemplate.

Young's Iago is a master-piece, and _his_ acting first made this

character thoroughly clear to me. It is, perhaps--and here I must

recant, at least in this one case, an assertion I made before--Iago is

perhaps, contrary to Shakspeare's usual custom, not a character quite

founded in nature, but rather a brilliant conception of the poet:--but

then with what astonishing consistency is it carried through! He is an

incarnate fiend; a being nourished with gall and bitterness, capable

neither of love nor joy; who regards evil as his element; the

philosophizing on himself, the contemplating and full and clear setting

forth of his own atrocities, is his only enjoyment. The tie which binds

him to human kind is feeble; it is only revenge for the suspected injury

done him by the Moor: and even this seems but a sort of pretext which he

makes to himself with the last expiring breath of moral sensibility, and

his genuine delight in torture and distress ever the real and leading

motive. And yet even this monster is not utterly revolting. His

intellectual superiority, his courage, his consistency, and, at the

last, his firmness in extremity, never suffer the consummate villain to

sink into abject, vulgar degradation. Iago is a hero, compared to

Kotzebue's models of virtue. Completely in this sense Young played the

character: his manners are gloomy and morose, but noble; no smile passes

over his lips, and his jests lose nothing by this dryness: certain of

his power, he treats all with calm superiority, but with well-defined

'nuances:' to his wife he is simply rough and domineering; to Roderigo,

authoritative and humorous; to Cassio, polite and friendly; to the Moor,

reverential and attached, but always serious and dignified. Kemble, on

his part, played Cassio as admirably; and perfectly as Shakspeare

describes him; "a man, framed to make women false;" young, gay, gallant,

of a noble mein, good-natured character, and polished

manners.--Desdemona, unhappily, was but moderately represented; and yet

the touching contrast of her gentle, patient, womanly devotedness, with

the Moor's burning passion, was not utterly lost.

Kean played Othello in the dress of a Moorish King out of the

Bible,--in sandals, and a long silk talar, which is manifestly absurd.

But one soon forgets his dress in his glorious acting.

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 118 / 212 题