DEAR JULIA,

After writing some verses in the W---- album, in which Arabian steeds,

Timour's magnificence, Cecil, Elizabeth, and the fair beauties of

Teheran, met in agreeable confusion, I took leave of my kind hosts, and

returned to London. The same evening L---- took me to a singular

exhibition.

In a suburb, a good German mile from my lodging, we entered a sort of

barn; dirty, with no other ceiling than the rough roof, through which

the moon peeped here and there. In the middle was a boarded place, about

twelve feet square, surrounded by a strong wooden breastwork: round this

was a gallery filled with the lowest vulgar and with perilous-looking

faces of both sexes. A ladder led up to a higher gallery, for the

patrician part of the spectators, which was let out at three shillings a

seat. There was a strange contrast between the 'local' and a crystal

lustre hanging from one of the balks of the roof lighted with thick wax

candles: as well as between the 'fashionables' and the populace among

whom they were scattered, who--the latter I mean--were continually

offering and taking bets of from twenty to fifty pounds. The subject of

these was a fine terrier, the illustrious Billy, who pledged himself to

the public to kill a hundred rats in ten minutes. As yet the arena was

empty, and there was an anxious, fearful pause; while in the lower

gallery huge pots of beer circulated from mouth to mouth, and tobacco

smoke ascended in dense clouds. At length appeared a strong man, bearing

a sack, looking like a sack of potatoes, but in fact containing the

hundred live rats. These he set at liberty in one moment by untying the

knot, scattered them about the place, and rapidly made his retreat into

a corner. At a given signal Billy rushed in, and set about his murderous

work with incredible fury. As soon as a rat lay lifeless, Billy's

faithful esquire picked him up and put him in the sack; among these some

might be only senseless, or perhaps there might be some old

practitioners who feigned themselves dead at the first bite. However, be

that as it may, Billy won in nine minutes and a quarter, according to

all the watches; in which time a hundred dead, or apparently dead, rats

were replaced in their old quarters--the sack. This was the first act.

In the second, the heroic Billy, (who was greeted with the continual

shouts of an enraptured audience,) fought with a badger. Each of the

combatants had a second, who held him by the tail. Only one bite or

gripe was allowed; then they were separated, and immediately let loose

again. Billy had always the best of it, and the poor badger's ears

streamed with blood. In this combat, too, Billy was bound to seize the

badger fast in a certain number of minutes,--I don't recollect how many.

This he accomplished in brilliant style, but retired at last greatly

exhausted.

The _amusements_ ended with bear-baiting, in which the bear treated some

dogs extremely ill, and seemed to suffer little himself. It was evident

through the whole, that the managers were too chary of their animals to

expose them in earnest; I therefore, as I said, suspected from the

beginning some hidden talents for representation--even in the rats.

In a few months, cock fights will be held in the same place. I shall

send you a description of them.

_Dec. 21st._

There are unquestionably three natures in man,--a vegetable one, which

is content merely to exist; an animal, which destroys; and an

intellectual, which creates. Many are satisfied with the first, most lay

claim to the second, and a few to the third. I must confess, alas! that

my life here belongs to Class I., at which I am often discontented

enough: 'but I can't help it.'

You have heard of the English Roscius. A new little wonder of this kind

has appeared, and the maturity of his early talent is really

astonishing. Master Burke (so this little fellow is called) acts at the

Surrey Theatre. Though only ten years old, he played five or six very

different parts, with a humour, apparent familiarity with the stage,

'aplomb,' volubility of utterance, accurate memory, and suppleness and

power over his little person, which are perfectly amazing. What struck

me most, however, was, that in a little interlude he acted his own

natural part,--a boy of ten years old,--with such uncommon truth that

the genuine 'naivété' of childhood he represented, could be nothing but

the inspiration of genius,--it is impossible it could be the result of

reflection in such a child. He began with the part of an Italian

music-master, in which he displayed extraordinary mastery of the violin,

and that not only in acquired dexterity, but in the good taste of his

playing, and a fulness and beauty of tone seldom equalled. You perceived

in his whole performance that he was born a musician. Next followed a

learned pedant; then a rough captain of a ship; and so on;--every part

admirably filled, and the by play, in which so many fail, peculiarly

easy, clever, and appropriate. His last character was Napoleon,--the

only one in which he failed; and this failure was exactly the thing that

put the crown to my admiration. It is characteristic of true genius,

that in the meagre, absurd, and foolish, it appears foolish too; and

this part was the quintessence of bad taste and stupidity. It is the

same in life. Turn Lessing into a courtier for instance, or Napoleon

into R---- Lieutenant, and you will see how miserably each will fill his

part.

Generally speaking, the important thing is that every man should be in

his right place. If he is, some excellence will scarcely ever fail to be

developed in him. Thus, for instance, my genius consists in a fancy, so

to say, practically applicable; I have nothing to do but to wind it up

like a watch, not only to find myself immediately at home in every

actual situation, but employing it as a stimulus, to throw myself

headlong down any conceivable precipice. If I get hurt in the fall, I

can use it again as a restorative, by the unexpected discovery of some

wonderful piece of luck or other. Now is this the consequence of an

accidental physical organization, or of an acquired power,--acquired

perhaps through a hundred preceding generations? Had this spiritual

individual whom I call _myself_, any previous existence connected with

another form? and does it endure independent, or does it lose itself

again in the universal Whole, after the bursting of that bubble which

the eternal fermentation of the universe throws up?

Is--as many will have it--the history of the world (or what passes in

time), as well as of nature (or what passes in space,) predetermined

through its whole course, according to the immutable laws of a guiding

will? and does it end like a drama in the victory of good over evil?--or

does the free power of the spirit fashion its own future, uncertain in

all its incidents, and only subject to the conditions necessary to its

existence?--'That is the question!' Meantime, thus much appears to me

clear;--that, by the adoption of the former hypothesis,--turn it which

way we will,--we are all, more or less, mere finely-constructed puppets:

it is only according to the second, that we remain free spirits. I will

not deny that there is in me an unconquerable, instinctive feeling, like

the deepest consciousness of _self_, which impels me to the latter

belief. This may possibly be an inspiration of the devil! Yet he does

not lead me so far astray, as that I do not, with profound humility and

gratitude, ascribe this, our mysterious being, to that great

incomprehensible Creator, the object of my highest and deepest love. But

forasmuch as our origin is god-like, we must live on, independently, in

God. Hear what Angelius Silesius, the pious Catholic, says on this

subject.

"Soll ich mein letztes End, und ersten Anfang finden,

So muss ich mich in Gott und Gott in Mir ergrunden;

Und werden das, was Er, ich muss ein Schein im Schein,

Ich muss ein Wert im Wort, ein Gott im Gotte seyn."[73]

For this very reason is the doctrine intolerable to me, that man was

formerly in a more exalted and perfect state than now; but has gradually

degenerated, and must labour up again, through sin and misery, till he

reach his pristine perfection. How much more accordant with all the laws

of nature,--how much more consistent with the character of an eternal,

most high, all-pervading, all-ruling Love and Justice, is it, to imagine

that the human race (which I regard as one) advances, from a beginning

necessarily imperfect, onward and onward towards perfection, by its own

energy; although indeed the germ of that energy be implanted by the love

of the Most Highest! The golden age of mankind, says the Duke de St.

Simon, very justly, is not behind, but before us. Our age might be

called (rather for the will than the power) the mystic age. True

mysticism is indeed rare; but it must be confessed that it is a most

skilful and profitable invention of the worldly-wise, to throw a cloak

of titular mysticism over absurdity itself. Behind this curtain,

unhappily, lurk many things,--even that original sin which our modern

mystics dwell upon so much.

Some years ago I was in a very intelligent party, though small in

number,--consisting only of a lady and two gentlemen. An argument arose

concerning original sin. The lady and I declared ourselves against the

doctrine,--the two gentlemen, for it, though perhaps, more for the sake

of letting off some intellectual fireworks than from conviction. "Yes,"

said our antagonists at length, "the doctrine of original sin is

doubtless true: like the new French Charter, it was the impulse towards

knowledge forcing its way. With the gratification of this impulse came

evil into the world; which, however, was also necessary to our

purification,--to our _own_ merit, the only thing truly meritorious."

"On this interpretation," replied I, turning to my ally, "we may be

content to admit it; for this is only our own meaning in other words,--a

schooling--the necessary transition from bad to better, by the help of

our own experience and acquired wisdom." "Certainly," added the lady;

"only then you ought not to call it _hereditary sin_."[74] "'Gnädige

Frau,'" answered one of our antagonists, "we will not quarrel about the

name; if you like it better, we will call it _hereditary nobility_ for

the future."

After all these profound and subtle reflections, I made the discovery

to-day that the most frivolous people in the world do actually reflect

on their own minds and characters. An Austrian of rank who has been here

some time, did me the favour to give me the following counsels of

practical philosophy, which I must record literally for the sake of

their originality.

"I hold nothing to be more silly," said he, "than to annoy oneself about

the future. Look ye,--when I came here it was just summer, and the

season was over. Now another man would have been annoyed at having

arrived just at such a bad time; but I thought it would pass over,

and--just so--you see we're got to November. In the mean time Esterhazy

took me into the country, where I enjoyed myself amazingly; and now

there is one more month bad, and then 'twill be full again: the balls

and the routs will begin,--and what can I wish better? Should not I have

been a perfect fool, now, to distress myself without a cause? Am I not

right? We must live in the world just like a H----, and never think too

much of the future."[75]

I admit, indeed, that this practical gentleman and I are of very

different natures; and doubtless many a philosopher by profession must

regard my lucubrations with about as much pity as I do the Austrian's.

And yet the result is, alas! the same with all: the only uncertainty is,

which is the majority. Probably they who think themselves the cleverest.

_Dec. 28th._

I have received the unpleasant intelligence that the vessel on board

which I sent you all the seeds and flowers I had bought, has been

wrecked off Heligoland, and but few of the hands saved. Friend L---- has

also lost a great part of his effects. This is the only vessel that has

been lost in those seas this year, and has doubtless the folly of

sailing on a Friday to thank for it. You laugh; but that day has a

peculiar quality, and I too have a dread of it; for in the inexplicable

embodied picture of the days of the week, which my fancy has

involuntarily painted, that is the only one coal-black. Perhaps you'd

like to know, now I am upon the subject, the colours of the others. It

is a mystical sort of secret. Well then; Sunday is yellow, Monday blue,

Tuesday brown, Wednesday and Saturday brick-red, Thursday ash-gray. All

these day-persons have also an extraordinary and appropriate spiritual

body,--that is, transparent, without any determinate form or size.

But to return to Friday.--The American Secretary of Legation lately told

me what follows.

"The superstition that Friday is an unlucky day," said he, "is firmly

rooted in the minds of our seamen to this hour. An enlightened merchant

in Connecticut conceived the wish, a few years ago, to do his utmost to

weaken an impression which has often very inconvenient results. He

therefore had a new ship laid on the stocks on a Friday: on a Friday she

was launched; he named her Friday; and by his orders she sailed on her

first voyage on a Friday. Unhappily for the effect of his well-meant

experiment, nothing was ever heard of the vessel or crew from that day

to this."

Yesterday I received your letter.

That your jewel, as you affectionately call him, should be not only

overlooked by many in the world, but with great satisfaction trodden

under-foot, arises naturally enough from this,--that he is polished only

on some few sides; and if one of these does not happen to strike the eye

of the passer-by, he is 'comme de raison,' regarded as a mere common

pebble; and, if it happens that one of his sharp points gives pain, is

trodden down as much as possible. He is valued only by here and there a

connoisseur, and by the possessor,--who overvalues him.

Your description of the English family in B---- made me laugh; the

originals for such portraits are common enough in the world of London.

The 'tournure' of the ladies, with few exceptions, is indeed as awkward

as what you have seen in B----; but long enjoyed and boundless wealth,

old historic names, and stately invincible reserve, give to the

aristocratical society of England something imposing--especially to a

North-German nobleman, who is so small a personage. Do not take to heart

the little disaster you tell me of. What are these but insignificant

clouds, so long as the sun of the mind shines clear in our inward

heaven? You should seek more amusement. Go to W----, to H----, to L----.

We ought not to visit people only when we stand in need of them: if we

do, they cannot believe that we love and value them, but only that we

use them;--and yet could these three but see our hearts, they would

learn to know and to love us better, than by words or visits. As to the

park, I'm afraid you have murdered venerable age in cold blood, like a

cruel tyrant as you are. So then, limes that had seen three centuries

fell unwilling martyrs to a clear view. That is certainly in the spirit

of the age. Henceforward, however, I give you my instructions only to

plant; plant as much as you like, but remove nothing that is there.

By-and-by I shall come myself and sever the tares from the wheat.

_Dec. 31st._

Don Miguel of Portugal is arrived, and I was presented to him this

morning. No body was present but the 'corps diplomatique' and a few

foreigners. The young Prince is not ill-looking, and indeed resembles

Napoleon; but his manner was rather embarrassed. He wore seven stars,

and seven great orders over his coat. His complexion is like the olive

of his fatherland, and the expression of his countenance rather

melancholy than otherwise.

_Jan. 1st, 1828._

My best wishes and a hearty kiss at the beginning of a new year. Perhaps

this is the good year which we have been so long expecting, like the

Jews their Messias, in vain. I ushered it in at least very cheerfully.

We spent yesterday at Sir L---- M----'s, who had invited five or six

very pretty girls, and at midnight we drank a toast to the new year.

L---- and I took occasion to introduce the German mode of saluting the

ladies, to which, after the prescribed quantity of resistance, they

consented.

To-day I ate part of an Hanoverian roe (there are none in England) at

Count Münster's country-house. Somebody, by way of Christmas present,

fired a blunderbuss into the large window of his sitting-room at the

very moment the Countess was distributing her Christmas gifts to her

children.[76] The shot had pierced the looking-glasses like pasteboard,

in a hundred little holes, without breaking one of them. Fortunately the

Christmas presents were placed so far from the window that the shot did

not reach the spot. Nobody can guess who was the perpetrator of this

horrid act.

Don Miguel's arrival makes London alive. To-night there was a soirée at

the Duke of Clarence's, and to-morrow there will be a great ball at Lady

K----'s. The Prince seems to be a universal favourite; and now that he

is more at home here, has something very calm and gentleman-like in his

'tournure;' though it strikes me that in the back-ground, behind his

great affability, lurks more than one 'arrière pensée.' Portuguese

etiquette is so rigorous, that our good Marquis P---- is obliged to

kneel down every morning when he first sees the Prince.

_Jan. 3rd._

I pass over yesterday's fête at Prince E----'s to tell you about this

evening's pantomime, which Don Miguel honoured with his presence. He was

in a more awkward predicament than the late Elector of Hessen Cassel at

Berlin, when, at the opening chorus of "Long life to the Amazon Queen,"

he got up and returned thanks.

The people here, to whom Don Miguel had been represented as a ferocious

tyrant, and who saw the formidable monster appear in the shape of a

pretty young fellow, have passed from aversion to fondness, and receive

the Prince everywhere with enthusiasm. So it happened to-day in the

theatre: Don Miguel immediately rose with his Portuguese and English

suite, and returned thanks most courteously. Shortly after the curtain

drew up, and now arose a fresh violent clapping at the beautiful

scenery. Again Don Miguel rose and bowed his thanks: surprised and

somewhat perplexed, the audience, however, overlooked the mistake, and

greeted him with fresh cheers. But now appeared the favourite buffoon,

in the person of a great ourang outang, with all the suppleness of

Mazurier. Louder than ever resounded the enthusiastic applause; and

again Don Miguel arose and bowed his thanks. This time, however, the

compliment was only answered by a hearty laugh; and one of his English

attendants, Lord M---- C----, without ceremony seized the Infant by the

arm and motioned to him to resume his seat. No doubt, however, Don

Miguel and the favourite actor will long remain involuntarily associated

in the public mind.

_Jan. 6th._

We float in a sea of fêtes. Yesterday the beautiful Marchioness gave

her's; to-day was the admired Princess L----'s, which lasted till six

o'clock. People are busied from morning till night in amusing the

Prince. It is agreeable enough to be this privileged sort of person,

whom the highest and the lowest, the wisest and the silliest, are all

doing their utmost to please.

In the midst of this 'trouble' I received another letter from you

through L----, and rejoiced in the hundred-thousandth assurance of your

love, an assurance of which I shall certainly not be tired before the

millionth, and shall then exclaim, 'L'appétit vient en mangeant!' Just

as little tired, it seems, are people here with these fêtes. While the

dark clouds are gathering heavier and heavier around their horizon, our

diplomates dance and dine, and meet the threatening storm with jests and

laughter; and the great and the elevated are mingled with the vulgar and

the common place, as in Shakespeare's faithful mirrors of life.

My own spirits are favourably excited by all this, and my mind is in a

healthy and vigorous state. My masculine soul (for I have a feminine one

of my own, besides yours, which belongs to me) is just now 'du jour;'

and when that is the case, I always feel more free and independent, and

less sensitive to external influences. This state of mind is quite the

right one for a residence here, for Englishmen are like their

flints,--cold, angular, and furnished with cutting edges; but the steel

succeeds in striking live sparks out of them, thus producing light by a

friendly antagonism.

Generally speaking, I am too indolent, or rather, too little excited by

them, to be either willing or able to act as steel to any of the

individuals who surround me; but I have, at least, opposed to their

pride still greater pride, and thus softened some and repulsed others.

Both were just what I wished; for the craniologist said of me very

truly, that I was endowed with a strong tendency to creativeness; and

such minds can only love those which act with the same elective

affinities as themselves; or those which, in a subordinate station, are

useful instruments on which to play the melodies of their own

composition. All others are either opposite to, or remote from them.

_Jan. 11th._

The last party given in honour of Don Miguel took place to-night at the

Dutch Ambassador's, to which little incident one might hang all sorts of

interesting historical reminiscences. Both Portugal and Holland, though

so small in territorial extent, were once great powers. The one took the

road of freedom, the other that of slavery, and yet both are become

equally insignificant; nor does their internal prosperity and happiness

seem very greatly to differ. But I will leave these considerations, and

substitute for them a few words in praise of the amiable Ambassadress,

whose French vivacity has not yet given place to the melancholy,

ponderous follies of English fashion. Her house, too, is one of the few

which one may visit in an evening in the Continental fashion, uninvited,

and be sure to find _conversation_. When Madame de F---- was living in

Tournay before her marriage, my beloved 'chef,' the old Grand Duke of

W----, lived in her parents' house for some time during the war of

deliverance,[77] and used jestingly to call the charming daughter his

favourite aide-de-camp. As I had filled that post, I had to plead a sort

of comradeship, an honour I am the less disposed to forego my claim to,

as her husband is a very agreeable man, equally distinguished for the

goodness of his heart and the soundness of his head.

I ate a German dinner to-day at Count Münster's, who from time to time

regales us with a wild Hanoverian. To-day it was a noble boar, with that

royal sauce invented by George the Fourth, of which it is written in the

Almanac des Gourmands, 'qu'avec une telle sauce on mangérait son père.'

Over and above this delicacy, we were treated with a good anecdote by

Sir Walter Scott. He said he one day met an Irish beggar in the street,

who asked him for six-pence; Sir Walter could not find one, and at last

gave him a shilling, saying, with a laugh, "But mind now, you owe me

six-pence." "Och, sure enough!" said the beggar, "and God grant you may

live till I pay you."

Before I went to bed I read over your last letter again. You have

entered completely into my view of the character of Macbeth, and the few

words you say about it and about the performance of our actors are

masterly. It is strange, but true, that acting is every where

degenerated. Surely this lies in the selfish, mechanical, unpoetical

spirit of our times.

Equally true is your remark on the high society of B----; that the wit,

and even the learning, which display themselves so ostentatiously there

have nothing of that good-humoured attaching character which is

necessary to give to both the true social charm. The warm heart's pulse

is wanting in that arid soil;--the people can't help it:--and when they

hunt after Fancy, she always appears to them, as she did to Hofmann, in

the form of a horrible lay-figure, or of a spectre. Your friend, who

does not fare much better, was also, unhappily, born in the sand: but I

think the metallic exhalations which issued from the shafts, the flaming

breath of the gnomes from beneath, the dark solitude of the pine-forests

above, and the whisper of the Dryads from amid their thick branches,

surrounded his cradle, and shed over the poor child some foreign and

beneficent influences.

The 'parforce' members of the new Parforce hunt[78] made me laugh

heartily. They are the best contrast to the volunteers of the Landwehr.

I am myself a sincere advocate of the latter, because I love our King

from my heart; and to serve him is not only a duty, but a real

enjoyment, in my estimation. When I return, therefore, I shall very

willingly suffer 'une douce violence,' and accompany the 'parforce'

hunt, were it only from respect and attachment to the elegant and

amiable Prince who is the leader of it. The field horsemanship, almost

forgotten among us, will thus be revived; and England daily teaches me,

that habit and amusements connected with danger and hardship have a very

favourable effect on the youth of a nation, and consequently on its

whole character.

_January 14th._

I drove into the City this morning with Count B---- and a son of the

celebrated Madame Tallien, to see the India House, where there are many

remarkable curiosities. Among them is Tippoo Saib's dream-book, in which

he daily wrote his dreams and their interpretation with his own hand,

and to which he, like Wallenstein, might mainly ascribe his fall. His

armour, a part of his golden throne, and an odd sort of barrel-organ are

also preserved here. The latter is concealed in the belly of a very well

represented metal tiger, of natural colours and size. Under the tiger

lies an Englishman in scarlet uniform, whom he is tearing to pieces; and

by turning the handle, the cries and moans of a man in the agonies of

death, terrifically interspersed with the roaring and growling of the

tiger, are imitated with great truth. This is a highly characteristic

instrument, and greatly assists our judgment of that formidable foe of

the English, who took the stripes of the tiger as his coat of arms, and

was wont to say that he would rather live one day as a tiger going out

to seek his prey, than a century as a quiet grazing sheep.

Daniel's magnificent work on the celebrated temple of Ellora, hewn in

the solid rock, interested me uncommonly. The age of these majestic

remains is completely unknown. It is highly curious, and in full

conformity with Merkel's hypothesis, that the most ancient civilization

of the earth originated with the negro races, that the statue of the

deity in the sanctuary of the oldest temple of Buddha, distinctly

exhibits the peculiar features and woolly hair of a negro. A large stone

from the ruins of Persepolis, entirely covered with the yet-undeciphered

arrow-writing; large Chinese paintings; huge Chinese lanterns; a very

large plan of the city of Calcutta, and some beautiful Persian

illuminated manuscripts, are among the greatest curiosities of this

collection. We then visited the warehouses, where you may buy all sorts

of Indian goods uncommonly cheap, provided you ship them immediately for

the Continent, in which case they pay no duty to the Government. Shawls,

which with us would cost at least a hundred louis d'ors, are here to be

bought in abundance for forty. The most beautiful I ever saw, and of a

fineness and magnificence which would make it a most enviable possession

in the eyes of our ladies, was only a hundred and fifty guineas: but

shawls are not much worn in England, and are thought little of; so that

nearly all these are sent abroad.

_January 16th._

The new steam-carriage is completed, and goes five miles in half an hour

on trial in the Regent's park. But there was something to repair every

moment. I was one of the first of the curious who tried it; but found

the smell of oiled iron, which makes steam-boats so unpleasant, far more

insufferable here. Stranger still is another vehicle to which I

yesterday entrusted my person. It is nothing less than a carriage drawn

by a kite,--and what's more, a paper kite very like those which children

fly. This is the invention of a schoolmaster, who is so skilful in the

guidance of his vehicle, that he can get on very fairly with a half

wind, but with a completely fair one and on good road, he goes an

English mile in three-quarters of a minute. The sensation is very

agreeable, for you glide over the little unevennesses of the road as if

carried over them. The inventor proposes to traverse the African deserts

in this manner, and with this view has contrived a place behind, in

which a poney stands, like a footman, and in case of a calm can be

harnessed in! What is to be done for forage, indeed, is not thoroughly

clear, but the schoolmaster reckons upon regular trade winds in those

regions. As a country diversion, the invention is, at all events,

greatly to be recommended; and I therefore send you herewith a

'brochure' announcing it, with explanatory plates, after which you can

commission some amateur among your own schoolmasters to make a similar

attempt.

I devoted the evening to a pantomime, the strange extravagance of which

was sustained by such admirable scenery and machinery, that you could

think yourself in fairy-land, without any great effort. Such pretty

nonsense is delightful. For instance, an immeasurable rushy bog in the

kingdom of the Frogs, the inhabitants of which are most accurately

represented by clever actors; and a temple of glow-worms, which in

wildness of fancy, and wonderful brilliancy, surpasses any Chinese

firework.

_Brighton, Jan. 23rd._

Fashion is a great tyrant; and however clearly I see this, I suffer

myself to be ruled by her as others are. She led me hither a few days

ago, to the agreeable Miss J----, the discreet Lady L----, the charming

F----, &c. &c.

I am already wearied again with balls and dinners, and have resumed my

coquetry with the sea, the only poetical object in this prosaic place. I

walked just now, after leaving a 'rout' at the further end of the town,

for half an hour on its shore, amid the thundering and foaming of the

coming tide. The stars looked down in all their brightness; eternal

repose reigned above; and wild tumult and ceaseless agitation

below;--heaven and earth in their truest emblems. How beautiful, how

beneficent, how fearful, how perturbing, is this universe!--this

universe, whose beginning and end we know not; whose extent is

illimitable; before whose infinite series, on every side, even Fancy

sinks to earth, veiling herself with reverential awe. Ah, my dear Julia!

Love alone finds an exit from this labyrinth. Does not Göthe, too, say,

"Glücklich allein ist die Seele die liebt!"

_Jan. 24th._

We have had a fine day's hunting here. The weather was remarkably clear

and sunny, and at least a hundred red coats took the field. Such a sight

is certainly full of interest; the many fine horses; the elegantly

dressed huntsmen; fifty or sixty beautiful hounds following Reynard over

stock and stone; the wild mounted troop behind; the rapid change of wood

and hill and valley; the cries and shouts--it is a miniature war.

The country here is very hilly, and at one time the hounds ran up so

steep and long a hill, that most of the horses were unable to follow

them, and those that did, panted like the bellows of a smithy. But when

we had once reached the top, the 'coup d'oeil' was glorious; you

looked down upon the whole, from the fox to the last straggler, all in

full movement, with one glance; and besides that, over a rich valley to

the left, which extends to London, and to the right over the sea

gleaming like a mirror beneath the bright sun.

The first fox we took; the second reached Malapartus[79] in safety, and

thus escaped his pursuers. Almost all these hunts are maintained by

subscription. The pack here, for instance, consisted of eighty dogs and

three huntsmen, with their nine horses, costs 1,050_l._ a year, which is

divided among five-and-twenty subscribers. Any man who has a mind may

ride with them. Thus it costs each subscriber not more than forty-two

pounds a year. The shares, however, are by no means equally divided. The

rich give much, the poor little, according to their means. Some give as

much as two hundred a year, some not above ten; and I think this scheme

would be a very good one to introduce into Germany, especially for poor

men. The most striking thing, however, in the whole business, to German

eyes, is the sight of the black-coated parsons, flying over hedge and

ditch. I am told they often go to the church, ready booted and spurred,

with the hunting-whip in their hands, throw on the surplice, marry,

christen, or bury, with all conceivable velocity, jump on their horses

at the church-door, and off--tally-ho! They told me of a famous clerical

fox-hunter, who always carried a tame fox in his pocket, that if they

did not happen to find one, they might be sure of a run. The animal was

so well trained that he amused the hounds for a time; and when he was

tired of running, took refuge in his inviolable retreat--which was no

other than the altar of the parish church. There was a hole broken for

him in the church wall, and a comfortable bed made under the steps. This

is right English religion.

_Feb. 6th._

I caught a cold which brought on a violent nervous fever. This has

confined me to my bed for a fortnight, and weakened me to an

extraordinary degree. It has not been wholly unattended with danger; but

my physician assures me that is quite past; therefore do not be alarmed.

Strange that, in a complaint so exhausting, one should be so indifferent

to the thought of death! It appears to us only like rest and slumber;

and I fervently wish myself such a slow and gradual approach of my

dissolution from the body, whenever my time comes. As one that delights

in observing, I would fain, so to say, see and feel myself die, as far

as that is possible; that is, watch my own sensations and thoughts with

full possession of my faculties, and thus taste existence up to the very

last moment. A sudden death appears to me something vulgar,--animal; a

slow one alone, with perfect consciousness of its approach, refined,

noble,--human. I hope moreover to die very tranquilly; for although I

have never attained to sanctity of life, I have held fast to the Loving

and the Good, and have loved mankind, though not perhaps many individual

men. Thus, though not yet ripe for heaven, I wish extremely, according

to my doctrine of metempsychosis, to become once more an inhabitant of

this beloved earth. The planet is beautiful and interesting enough to

like to rove about in it in ever-renewed human shape. But if it be

ordered otherwise, I am content. From God and his universe we cannot be

cut off; and it is not probable that we shall become more foolish or

more wicked; but rather, wiser and better.

The sting of death to me would be the thought of your sorrow; and yet

perhaps, without the certainty of your love I could not die so happy and

resigned:--it is so sweet a feeling in death, that we leave some one

behind who will cherish our memory with tenderness, and in and with whom

we shall live, so long as his eyes remain open to the light. Is this

selfishness?

As we are talking of dying, I must mention a melancholy incident. Do you

remember a Scottish chieftain, of whom I told you during my last visit

to Brighton?--a somewhat fantastic, but powerful and original

Highlander. In the full pride of manly strength he has ceased to live.

He was on board a steamboat with his two daughters, and shortly before

landing received such a blow on the head from one of the yards, that he

fell into a fit of delirium on the spot, sprang into the sea, and swam

to shore, where he soon after expired. This end has a certain kindred

tragic character with the history of an ancestor he told me of with such

pride, to which he traced the origin of his arms--a bloody hand on a

field azure.--This is the tradition:

Two brothers who were engaged in an expedition against some Scottish

island had entered into an agreement, that he who should first touch the

land with flesh and blood (a Scotch expression) should remain undisputed

lord of it. Approaching the shore with all the force with which they

could ply their oars, they came to a part where the projecting rocks

barred all nearer approach; and both brothers, with their followers,

dashed into the sea to swim to the island. As the elder saw that the

younger was getting before him, he drew his short sword, laid his left

hand on a point of rock, cut it off with one stroke, took it up by the

fingers and threw it bleeding, past his brother on the shore: "God is my

witness," cried he, "that my flesh and blood have first touched this

land." And thus was he king of the island, which his descendants ruled

for centuries with unlimited sway.

_Feb. 8th._

The doctor finds me very patient--Good God! I have been taught

patience--and to be just, adversity is an admirable school for the

spirit. Adversity, however, if we look deep enough, arises only from

these faults in us, which are corrected by it; and we may

unconditionally affirm, that if men began and persevered in an

undeviating course of reasonable and virtuous conduct, they would

scarcely know suffering:--but their pleasures must then become so subtle

and ethereal, that they would set but little value on any thing earthly.

No more dinners,--at which to get indigestions. No more fame,--which

they hunt after with such delighted vanity: no more of love's sweet and

perilous risks: no pomp or show for the sake of surpassing others: it

would be at last--God forgive me for saying so!--a very humdrum life--a

dead calm, under an outward show of perfection. The essence of life, on

the contrary, is motion and contrast. It would therefore be the greatest

derangement and annoyance if we were all to become perfectly reasonable.

But I don't think the danger very pressing.--You see my illness has not

altered me: I should not have told you anything about it, but that this

letter must go before I am quite recovered. You may, however, read it

with perfect tranquillity of mind, and be assured that I mean to enjoy

everything that a benevolent Creator has bestowed upon us, to my very

latest breath; whether halfpence, or guineas; houses of cards, or

palaces; soap-bubbles, or rank and dignities,--as time and circumstance

present them;--and at last even death itself, and whatever here or

elsewhere may follow it. The severer virtues just show their beautiful

roots. Thus, for instance, I really enjoy my present temperance; I feel

an ethereal lightness from it, and am more elevated than usual above all

that is animal. Other _égarements_ are wholly out of the question; and

all this gives me a foretaste of that purer pleasure to come--old age.

For in certain things--let us but confess it frankly and freely--the

wicked Frenchman is half in the right:--'que c'est le vice qui nous

quitte, et bien rarement nous qui quittons le vice.'

_Feb. 9th._

I never had a physician who was so kind--to the apothecary;--two doses a

day. I live upon nothing else; but, as I am unhappily ill in earnest, I

take what is sent me with great resignation. I miss terribly such a

nurse as you are; and my dry, hard landlady, who has frequently offered

her services very civilly, would be a poor substitute. Meanwhile I read

a great deal, and am in very good spirits. If I were disposed to give

myself up to melancholy self-tormentings, I could find negative as well

as positive grounds for them. Now that I am confined to the house, the

weather is uniformly most beautiful: but as I have set the hands of my

spiritual watch in a quite other direction, I am on the contrary, very

thankful to see the bright sun daily;--very thankful that, spite of his

glory and majesty, he disdains not to warm my room from early morning;

to greet me all day with friendly beams, which clothe everything in a

robe of gold; and in the evening, that he takes the trouble to paint the

wildest pictures in the clouds that hang over the sea, deep blue,

flaming amber, or purple,--for me, poor invalid! who sit wrapt up at a

large window: and at length, when taking leave, shows himself in such

splendour, that the remembrance of it long afterwards robs the dusky

shades of night of that gloomy impression which they are wont to leave

on the spirit of the solitary and the suffering. And thus has everything

two sides. There is nothing at which the fool may not fall into despair,

or the wise man feel satisfaction and enjoyment.

Feb. 10th.

A letter from you always causes me the greatest delight, as you know;

but how much more in my present state! Judge, therefore, with what

delight yours was received to-day.* * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

F---- is very wrong to refuse what was offered to him. It were madness

for a shipwrecked man, struggling with the waves and nearly exhausted,

to disdain a fishing-boat which presented itself to save him, that he

might wait for a three-decker. It is certainly possible that such an one

is already coming round that point; and at the moment when the boat has

borne him away to some meaner destination, may heave in sight with all

her canvass set. But we are not omniscient; we must treat the chances

which the concatenation of events offers us, according to probability,

not to possibility.

My presents please you, then? Now God bless them! Little pleasures are

as good as great ones; and we ought diligently to study the art of

creating to ourselves such, far oftener than we do; there is abundance

of cheap materials for the purpose: but no superstition must

intrude--like that which you express about the scissars. Good Julia, the

scissars are not yet invented which can cut our love;--they must be

crab-like, and with a backward action cut away all memory of the past.

Now I must scold you for another thing. To what end did I send you all

that beautiful coloured 'blotting-paper,' if you relapse into the horrid

fashion of strewing sand on your paper, which is as unknown in England

as sanded floors? Several ounces of this ingredient in your

correspondence flew in my face when I opened your letter. Will you, too,

throw dust[80] in my eyes, dear Julia? and has Jeremiah brought you a

new serious sand-box for the purpose from B----?

I am very industrious, and employ my leisure in putting in order several

volumes of my life-atlas. The whole day long I arrange, cut, write, (for

you know there's a commentary to every picture)--in short all that a

poor sick man can do to pass time. Behold, with your mind's eye, twenty

folio volumes of the classic work standing in our library, and

ourselves, grown old and bowed, sitting before them, rather doting, but

still triumphing in the glorious old times. Young shot-up things are

laughing by stealth behind our backs: flying out and in; and when one of

them asks "What are the old people about?" another answers, "O! they are

sitting poring over their picture-bible, and have no eyes nor ears for

anything else." Now this is what I should like to live to see, and it

always seems to me as if it must come to this. What lies between,

however--that indeed God only knows.

Bellows now cut a great figure in the newspapers. An ass, poisoned by

way of experiment, was restored to life by continual blowing into his

lungs; and the Houses of Parliament are going to be furnished with pure

air during the whole sessions by means of a great pair of bellows. As an

infallible remedy against suffocation, nothing more is necessary than to

hold the patient by the nose, and blow common atmospheric air into his

lungs, with the bellows out of the chimney corner. There will therefore

be a greater number of puffed-up people in England now than ever.

_Feb. 12th._

My illness has hindered me from going to Scotland, for which I had

prepared every thing, and received many invitations; and now the

expected arrival of W---- and the beginning of the season will keep me

in London. To-day for the first time my doctor let me go out: and I took

my way to Stranmore Park, which is at no great distance, that I might

enjoy fresh air and the pleasure of a romantic walk. I was, however, not

permitted to enter the garden, though I sent in my card. We are more

liberal, indeed,--but this stern repulsiveness has its advantages:--it

gives more value both to the thing itself, and to the permission to see

it, when you do obtain it. 'A propos,' this reminds me of your new

steward. It is desirable for us to keep him; nevertheless I beg you to

behave to him a little as the lady of Stranmore did to me. Don't be too

'empressée' in your kindness; that, if he deserves it, you may leave

yourself the power of increasing it. Be kind, but with dignity; always

shading off the superior station which you must necessarily maintain

with regard to him. Don't try to attach him by indulgence or over-civil

behaviour, but by confidence, which does him honour; and also by

substantial advantages, which in the end never fail to have their effect

upon people, let them say, or even think, as they will. But you must

address yourself no less to his ambition: keep it always awake by

discreet concessions, by gratitude for proofs of zeal, and no less by

gentle reproof whenever you think it necessary; that he may see you have

_a judgment_. As an honourable man, he will then not fail to conduct our

affairs with the same interest as if they were his own. Lastly, take

care not to fatigue him, in his province of supervision, with details:

don't attempt to exercise control over him in every trifle, and keep

vigilant watch to support his authority over those under him, no less

than your own over himself;--in those cases only where you see reason to

fear that something important is amiss, do not delay an instant to

require a full explanation. In very weighty cases that admit of delay,

you will of course consult me. Herewith does Polonius conclude his

exhortations.

_Feb. 15th._

The short flight was premature, for it did not agree with me. The

charming weather, too, is become horrible. A snow-storm now flogs the

sea under my windows, so that it foams and roars again for rage, and its

billows dash over the high pier up to the houses.

In the midst of this thunder I yesterday began to write my memoirs, and

finished eight sheets, which I send you herewith.

I have also taken advantage of this time to go through Lesage's

historical Atlas again; and I cannot say that during my whole illness I

ever felt a moment's ennui. Indeed the perfect repose and passionless

calm of such a period refreshes my soul. My body will soon be restored

also; and then, as soon as the sky clears a little, I think to return

once more to the haunts of men. A----,[81] to whom I sent your letter,

desires her best love to you. From her great intimacy with the future

Queen, she is treated quite like a 'Princesse du Sang.' She begins to

feel her own importance a little; her former shy, timid 'tournure' is

altered much to her advantage, and she has learnt to assume a certain

air without losing her affability. The sun of fortune and favour changes

a human being, as the sun of heaven does a plant which faded in

darkness, and now raises its drooping head in his bright beams, and

penetrated by the genial warmth opens fragrant blossoms to the light.

We, dear Julia, still lie in the cellar, like hyacinth roots; but the

gardener can place us in a more favourable soil and brighter sun in the

spring--if it please him.

_Feb. 20th._

I have been out--and behind every thing is become strange wherever I

went. My acquaintances were almost all gone, and in the houses and

promenades new faces met me. The bare country alone I found in its

former state, except that the green fields were manured--with

oystershells. Miss ----, a not very young, but rich and 'agreeable' lady,

told me that the papers here had spoken of me as lying at the point of

death, while the London 'Morning Post' introduced me as dancing at

Almack's, which certainly looks rather spectral. This good-natured

Miss ---- is still full of acknowledgments for a ticket I once got her

for Almack's, and played and sang her thanks to me rather more than the

weak state of my nerves could bear. I took my leave, but soon fell into

the hands of two other Philomels who are also belated here.

As soon as my strength is quite restored I shall return to London, and

can now, with a good conscience, and without fear of causing you

anxiety, despatch this long letter.

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 116 / 212 题