In a serious style, too, the Author is not amiss.[67]

More practically does the celebrated Smollett write to a friend: "I am

old enough to have seen and convinced myself that we are all the

playthings of Destiny, and that it often depends on a trifle not more

important than the toss-up of a halfpenny, whether a man should raise

himself to riches and honours, or pine away in misery and want till he

dies.

_August 15th._

I daily inspect the workmen in St. James's Park, formerly only a sort of

meadow for cows, and now converted into beautiful gardens, according to

a plan of Mr. Nash's. The water is also much better distributed. I

acquire a great deal of technical information here, and admire the

judicious division and series of the work, the ingenious modes of

transport, the moveable iron railways, &c.

It is characteristic, that while the laws which protect private property

are so strict that a man who climbs over a wall into a garden runs the

risk of being hanged, or otherwise grievously punished; that if it

occurs in the night the proprietor may shoot him dead;--with the public,

wherever they have the shadow of a claim, it is necessary to go to work

as gingerly as you would with a raw egg. This park is the property of

the Crown, but has been open to the public from remote ages; and

Government does not dare to close it, even temporarily, notwithstanding

the improvements which the King is now carrying on, (at the nation's

cost, it is true.) A board is put up on which is inscribed literally as

follows:--"The public are most respectfully requested, during the

operations which are designed for the increase of their own

gratification, not to injure the carts and tools of the workmen, and to

avoid as much as possible the part where the men are at work." Very

little attention, however, is paid to this respectful and reasonable

petition, and the carts and barrows which lie empty when the men leave

work are often used by the boys to wheel each other about, and to play

all sorts of tricks with. The girls seesaw on the long planks, and many

little wretches amuse themselves with throwing stones in the water just

at the very spot where ladies are standing, who are of course so

splashed as to be obliged to hasten home. This brutal love of mischief

is quite peculiar to the English people, and forms the sole apology for

the grudging inhumanity with which the opulent classes shut up their

charming pleasure-grounds. It is worth inquiring, however, whether the

moroseness of the rich was not the cause, instead of the effect, of the

mischievous temper of the poor. It is difficult for people on the

Continent to imagine to what a pitch it goes.

The anxiety with which the rich English shut up their property from the

profaning eyes of the stranger is sometimes truly amusing, but may

chance to be painful. I was riding one day in the neighbourhood of

London,--and attracted by the sight of a fine house and grounds, I asked

the porter who stood at the lodge, whether he would allow me to look at

the gardens? He had many scruples, but at last he opened the gate,

taking charge of my horse during the time. I might have walked about for

a quarter of an hour, and was just looking at the neatly-kept

pleasure-ground, when a somewhat fat personage in his shirt appeared at

a window of the house; he seemed to be running about in great distress,

but at last threw open the window with great vehemence, and whilst I

heard the violent ringing of a large bell, cried out to me with

half-suppressed rage, "Qui êtes-vous, Monsieur? que cherchez-vous ici?"

I thought it too ridiculous to shout back the answer from such a

distance, and soon found it unnecessary; for a number of servants,

alarmed by the ringing of the bell, flocked together from all

directions, one of whom now repeated to me the question 'ex officio.' In

a few words I let the proprietor know by him that I was a foreigner who

had been attracted by fondness for gardening; that I had not climbed

over the wall, as he seemed to believe, but had entered through the

usual entrance, where my horse was still waiting; that I was heartily

sorry for having caused him such a shock in his illness, and only wished

that it might have no serious consequences, at the same time assuring

him of my best respects, and that I would immediately leave the

forbidden garden. I soon reached my horse, and rode off laughing, for

this was the gay side of the affair. About a fortnight after, I passed

by chance near the same house: I approached the lodge again, and rang

the bell; another man appeared; and in a mischievous fit I inquired

after the health of his master, and whether I could be permitted to see

the garden? "God forbid!" was the answer, "on no account!" I now heard

from the servant, to my sincere grief, that the poor fellow, his

predecessor, had been dismissed with his wife and children, though he

had been in the service of the family for many years, merely for having

let a stranger enter without permission. Nevertheless this severe

gentleman is one of the patent liberals of England. What would an

illiberal one have done?

The walks and rides in the neighbourhood are now very inviting again,

for autumn has set in early. The scorched grass has resumed its coat of

bright green, and the trees hold their foliage longer and fresher than

with us, though they begin to change their colour earlier. Winter comes

late, often not at all, to throw its broad white mantle over them. The

mowing of the grass, and cleaning and sweeping of the gardens and

grounds never cease; indeed, as autumn and winter are 'the seasons' in

the country, that is just the time when most care is bestowed upon them.

London is deserted by the fashionables; and that with such affectation,

that many who are obliged to remain on business positively conceal

themselves. The streets in the west end of the town are like those of a

deserted city. * * *

* * * * *

They are still infested with beggars, and with that most affecting sort

of beggars who ply their melancholy trade in the night. Not only English

women, but foreigners here contract this shocking custom. I was really

made almost desperate by a withered French woman, of whom I could not

get rid, even by the usual shilling:--"Encore un moment," exclaimed she;

"je ne demande rien, c'est seulement pour parler Français, pour avoir

une conversation raisonnable, dont ces Anglais ne sont pas capables."

In the present solitude one has at least as much time to oneself as one

likes; one can work, and read the legion of newspapers at one's leisure.

The absurdities which daily appear in them on foreign affairs are almost

incredible. To-day I found the following article: "The admiration of

the Emperor Alexander for Napoleon was for a long time boundless. It is

well known that at the theatre at Erfuth, when Talma uttered the words

'L'amitié d'un grand homme est un bienfait des Dieux,'

Alexander leaned over to Napoleon and said, 'Ces paroles ont été écrites

pour moi.'--The following anecdote is probably less known. _We can vouch

for the truth of it._ Alexander one day expressed to Duroc the intense

desire he had to possess a pair of breeches of his great ally the

Emperor Napoleon. Duroc sounded his master on this very extraordinary

subject. Napoleon laughed heartily. 'Oh,' cried he, 'donnez lui tout ce

qu'il veut, pourvu qu'il me reste une paire pour changer.' _This is

authentic._ We are also assured that Alexander, who was very

superstitious, never wore any other breeches than Napoleon's in the

field, during the campaigns of 1812-13."

The day ended very pleasantly for me with the arrival of my friend

L----, for whom I now leave you, and close this letter (which is far

enough from being amusing or instructive in proportion to its dreadful

length,) with the old assurance, which to you I know will want no charm

of novelty, that, far or near, you are ever next to my heart.

Your faithful L----.

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 106 / 212 题