BELOVED,

I travelled these sixty miles yesterday with great rapidity, and in the

most charming state of indolence, without even the exertion of looking

up;--for one must once in a while travel like a fashionable Englishman.

It seems that here is a better atmosphere than in any other part of the

land of fog; the bright sunshine waked me this morning as early as nine

o'clock.

I soon went out;--first on the Marine Parade, which stretches to a

considerable extent along the sea; then made a tour through the large,

clean, and very cheerful town, which with its broad streets is like the

newest parts of London; and concluded with visits to several London

acquaintances. I then rode out, for I had sent my horses here before me.

Vainly did I look around for a tree. The country is perfectly naked:

nothing is to be seen but hilly downs covered with short turf; and sea

and sky are the only picturesque objects:--even this first day of my

visit they greeted me with the most beautiful sunset. The majestic orb

was veiled in a rosy transparent mist, so that it darted forth no rays,

but was like a ball of massive gold, glowing with the most fervid heat:

as it touched the water, it appeared slowly to dissolve, and to spread

itself over the surface of the blue deep. At length Ocean swallowed the

fiery globe; the burning hues faded from red to violet, then gradually

to whitish gray, and at length the waves driven by the evening wind,

dashed murmuring on the shore in the dim twilight, as if in triumph over

the buried sun.

A distinguished old Minister enjoyed this noble spectacle with me, and

was fully alive to its beauty. Lord Harrowby is an amiable man, of mild

refined manners, and of great experience of the world and of business.

_February 8th._

Public rooms, lists of visitors (_Badelisten_), &c., do not exist here.

Brighton has only the name of a bathing-place in our sense of the word,

and is chiefly resorted to by the inhabitants of London for recreation

and pure air. People who have no country-house, or who find London too

expensive, spend the winter, which is the fashionable season, here. The

King was formerly very fond of Brighton, and built a strange Oriental

Palace, which seen from the adjoining heights, with its cupolas and

minarets, looks exactly like the pieces on a chess-board. The interior

is splendidly though fantastically furnished. Although it has cost

enormous sums, its possessor, long sick of it, is said to have shown a

desire to pull it down, which indeed would be no great subject of

lamentation.

The only large trees I have seen in the neighbourhood are in the gardens

of this Palace. But the walks by the sea are so ageeable that one does

very well without; especially the large Chain Pier, which extends a

thousand feet into the sea, and from whose extremity the steam-vessels

sail for Dieppe and Boulogne.

Not far from thence an Indian has established Oriental baths, where

people are shampooed after the Turkish fashion, which is said to be very

healthful and invigorating, and is in great favour with the fashionable

world. I found the interior arrangements very European. The treatment is

like that in the Russian vapour-baths, only I think not so good. I

cannot help thinking the sudden cold after such profuse perspiration

very dangerous.

I thought the method of drying linen more worth imitating. It is laid in

a sort of wardrobe lined with tin, and kept at an equal heat by means of

steam.

_February 9th._

The sun has disappeared again, and the cold has returned with such force

that I am writing to you in gloves--for the better preservation of my

white hands, to which I, like Lord Byron, attach great importance. I

honestly confess I don't see that a man is 'un fat' merely for trying to

preserve the little beauty God has given him; at all events chapped

hands are a horror to me and always were.--Talking of this, I remember

that I was once in the boudoir of a very beautiful woman in Strasburg,

where I met Field-marshal W---- (then only General), who in eulogizing

Napoleon laid a peculiar stress on his temperance, adding in a

contemptuous tone, "A hero could not be a 'gourmand.'" Now the fair

lady, who was otherwise a very kind friend of mine, knew me to be not

quite insensible to 'bonne chére,' to gratify her malicious pleasure in

teasing me, made the General repeat his observation. Though I never set

up for a hero, (except in a little romance or two, here and there,) I

felt that I blushed; one of those stupidities of which I never could

break myself, even on many occasions where there was no ground for it.

Provoked at myself, I said with some pique, "It is fortunate for the

lovers of a good table, General, that there are a few brilliant

exceptions to your rule. Remember Alexander:--it is true that a too

luxurious feast led him into the burning of Persepolis;--but I think you

will allow him to have been a hero for all that: and 'gourmandise' did

not prevent Frederick the Great from acquiring immortal renown, both as

a warrior and ruler.--You, General, who have fought with the French with

so much glory, should not attack a good 'cuisine;' for that nation,

however, distinguished be her generals, will obtain a wider and perhaps

more lasting fame from her cooks." This last sentence was doubtless

inspired by a prophetic spirit; and how would the enthusiastic eulogist

of Napoleon have wondered, had I told him that in a little while he

would stand opposed to the great 'non-gourmond' himself, and would

receive one of the last effectual 'coups de griffes' of the sick lion.

You think, I dare say, dear Julia, that this anecdote is as much in

place here as one of our friend H----'s 'a-propos.' But you are

mistaken. I now go to adduce Alcibiades and Poniatowsky, as examples of

men distinguished for attention to dress and to their persons; thus

proving from experience that neither sensibility to good cheer, nor a

little 'fatuité,' are any obstacles to heroism, if other qualities be

not wanting.

A visit from Count F----, one of the most agreeable and respectable

representatives of Napoleon's time, who carried into the Imperial Court

'les souvenirs de l'ancien regime,' and into the present one the

reputation of spotless integrity and fidelity, (a most rare

instance!)--here interrupted me. He came to invite me to dinner

to-morrow. This has detained me:--it is too late to ride; I am not in

the humour to seek Club society: I shall put on a second dressing-gown,

dream about you and M----, read over your letters, and patiently freeze

in my room,--for more than eight degrees of heat I find it impossible to

procure by means of an open fire in my airy and many-windowed room.--'Au

revoir,' then.

_February 10th._

It was fair that I should indemnify myself to-day for my confinement to

my room, so I wandered about in the neighbourhood for many hours. I

enjoyed my freedom the more, as I was to execute myself in the evening

at a great subscription ball.

The country all around is certainly very remarkable; for in a four hours

ride I did not see a single full-grown tree. Yet the numerous hills, the

large town in the distance, several smaller ones scattered about, the

sea and ships--all under rapidly changing lights, sufficiently

diversified the landscape; and even the contrast with the generally

well-wooded character of England was not without its charms. The sun at

length retired to rest incognito, the sky cleared, and the moon rose

cloudless and brilliant over the waters. I now turned my horse's head

from the hills down to the sea, and rode five or six miles, about the

distance to Brighton, hard on the edge of the waves along the sandy

shore. The tide was coming in, and my horse sometimes shyed when a

wave, crowned with snowy foam, rolled under his feet and quickly

retreated as if in sport.

I love nothing better than to ride alone by moonlight on the wide

shore,--alone with the plashing and roaring and murmuring of the

waves;--so near to the mysterious deep, that my horse can only be kept

within reach of its rolling waters by force, and as soon as his rein is

loosened darts away with redoubled speed towards the firm land.

How different from this poetical scene was the prosaic ball!--which

moreover so little answered my expectations that I was perfectly

astonished. A narrow staircase led directly into the ball-room, which

was ill-lighted and miserably furnished, and surrounded with worsted

cords to divide the dancers from the spectators. An orchestra for the

musicians was hung with ill-washed white draperies, which looked like

sheets hung out to dry. Imagine a second room near it, with benches

along the walls, and a large tea-table in the middle; in both rooms the

numerous company raven black from head to foot, gloves inclusive; a

melancholy style of dancing, without the least trace of vivacity or

joyousness; so that the only feeling you have is that of compassion for

the useless fatigue the poor people are enduring;--and now you have a

true idea of the Brighton Almack's, for so these very fashionable balls

are called. The whole establishment is droll enough. Almack's balls in

London are the resort of people of the highest rank during the season,

which lasts from April to June; and five or six of the most intensely

fashionable ladies (Princess L---- among the number), who are called

Patronesses, distribute the tickets. It is an immense favour to obtain

one; and, for people who do not belong to the very highest or most

modish world, very difficult. Intrigues are set on foot months

beforehand, and the Lady-patronesses flattered in the meanest and most

servile manner, to secure so important an advantage; for those who have

never been seen at Almack's are regarded as utterly unfashionable--I

might almost say disreputable; and the would-be-fashionable English

world naturally holds this to be the greatest of all possible

calamities. So true is this, that a novel was lately written on this

subject, which contains a very fair delineation of London society, and

has gone through three editions. On nearer observation, however, one

sees that it betrays more of the ante-chamber than of the 'salon,'--that

the author is one, as the Abbé de Voisenon said, 'qui a écouté aux

portes.'

How admirably well-informed the English are concerning foreigners is

seen in a passage in this novel, in which the wife of a foreign

ambassador, born however in England, is extremely facetious on the

ignorant Londoners who assigned a higher rank to a German Prince than to

her husband the Baron, whose title was far nobler. "But the word

Prince," adds she, "whose nullity is well known to everybody on the

Continent, dazzled my stupid countrymen." 'C'est bien vrai,' says a

Frenchman, 'un Duc cirait mes bottes à Naples, et à Petersbourg un

Prince Russe me rasait tous les matins.' As the English generally

mis-spell and mis-quote foreign words and phrases, I strongly suspect

that a slight mistake has crept in here, and that it ought to be

printed, "un Prince Russe me _rossait_ tous les matins."[44]

You may partly conceive the burlesque effect such a fashionable novel

produces on people in the middling society of London, who are

continually groping in the dark after 'le bel air,' are consequently in

perpetual terror and agony, lest they should betray their acquaintance

with the great world, and thus generally make themselves exquisitely

ludicrous. I had a very amusing example of this a few weeks before the

publication of the book in question.

I was invited, with several other foreigners, to dine with a very rich *

* *

* * * * *

Among them was a German Prince, who had visited at the house before,

and, luckily for the farce, a German Baron also. When dinner was

announced, the Prince advanced, as usual, to the lady of the house to

hand her out, and was not a little amazed when she turned her back upon

him with a slight curtesy, and took the arm of the most

agreeably-surprised Baron. A laugh, which I really found it impossible

to suppress, almost offended the good Prince, who could not explain to

himself the extraordinary behaviour of our hostess; but, as I instantly

guessed the cause, I soon helped him out of his wonderment.

Regardless of rank, he now took the prettiest woman of the party; while

I, for my part, made haste to secure ----, that I might be sure of an

amusing conversation during dinner. The soup was hardly removed, when I

expressed to her as politely as I could, how much her nice tact and

exact knowledge of the usages of even foreign society had surprised me.

"Ah," replied she, "when one has been ---- so long, one becomes

thoroughly acquainted with the world." "Certainly," replied I,

"especially in ----, where you have all that sort of thing in black and

white." "You see," said she, speaking rather low, "we know well enough

that 'a foreign Prince' is nothing very great, but to a Baron we give

the honour due." "Admirably distinguished!" exclaimed I; "but in Italy

you must be on your guard, for there 'barone' means a rascal." "Is it

possible?" said she; "what a strange title!" "Yes, madam, titles on the

Continent are mysterious things; and were you the Sphinx herself, you

would never fathom the enigma." "May I help you to some fish?" said she.

"With great pleasure," answered I, and found the turbot, even without a

title, excellent.

But, to return to Almack's:--The oddest thing is, that one of these

tickets, for which many English men and women struggle and strive, as if

for life and death, are, after all, to be paid for with the sum of ten

shillings; for Almack's are neither more nor less than balls for money.

'Quelle folie que le mode!' We are sometimes forced to conclude that our

planet is the mad-house of the solar system.

In Brighton we find the copy of London in little. The present

Lady-patronesses are * * * When I entered, I saw no one of my

acquaintance, and therefore addressed myself to a gentleman near me to

show me the Marchioness of ----, from whom I had received my ticket,

through the 'entremise' of Countess F----. I was obliged to present

myself to her, to return my thanks; and found her a very kind, amiable,

domestic woman, who had never quitted England. She introduced me to her

daughters, and also to a certain Lady----, who spoke very good German.

That is the fashion now, and the young ladies labour hard to accomplish

it.

I afterwards found a gentleman of my acquaintance who introduced me to

several very pretty young ladies, among whom Miss W----, a niece of Lord

C----, was peculiarly distinguished. She was brought up in Germany, and

is more German than English,--of course an advantage in my eyes. She was

by far the prettiest and most graceful girl in the room, so that I was

almost tempted to dance once more; though from vanity (for I always

danced badly) I renounced that so-called pleasure years ago. I might

safely enough have attempted it here, for God knows, nowhere do people

jump about more awkwardly; and a man who waltzes in time is a real

curiosity. But it seems to me too ludicrous, to join the worshippers of

the tarantula so far on my way towards forty. 'Il est vrai que la

fortune m'a souvent envoyé promener, mais danser--c'est trop fort!'

I was told that the chief of a Highland clan, with a name as long as a

Spaniard's,--a descendant of some island king, and proud as Holofernes

of a thousand years of noble ancestry,--wished to make my acquaintance.

I had reason to congratulate myself on making his; for I found him a

living model of one of Walter Scott's pictures. A genuine Highland Scot,

hanging with body and soul on ancestry and ancient customs, having great

contempt for the English, full of fire, good-natured, loyal-hearted, and

brave; but childishly vain, and, on that side, as easy to wound as to

win. I very gladly took refuge from the tedium of the crowd in

conversation with a man of so original a character. I sat down by him on

a bench in the tea-room, and got him to tell me of all the glories of

his ancient heritage, all the battles of his forefathers, and his own

travels and adventures. The worthy man described to me at great length

his Highland dress, to which he evidently attached immense importance;

and told me a long history of the effect his appearance in it had

produced on the Court of Berlin. There was doubtless enough to excite a

smile in his account of the astonishment of the King and Queen, and of

the signal attentions his striking dress commanded; yet there was a fire

and a simplicity in his manner of relating the triumphs of his national

costume, that touched me extremely.

_February 11th._

This morning I went to church, with a full intention of being pious; but

it did not succeed. Everything was too cold, dry, and unæsthetic. I am

an advocate for a more imaginative worship, though it be addressed

rather more to the senses. If we did but follow Nature, we should find

her the best instructress in religion, as in other things. Is it not by

her most magnificent and sublime spectacles that she awakens our hearts

to emotions of piety? by the painting of her sunsets, by the music of

the rolling deep, by the forms of her mountains and her rocks? Be not

wiser, my brethren, than him who created all these wonders, and formed

the human heart to feel them; but imitate him, according to the measure

of your feeble powers.

But on this matter I should preach to deaf ears, except to yours, dear

Julia; they have long listened, with me, to the heavenly song of the

spheres, which ceaselessly resounds in the eternal, beautiful creation,

if men did not stop their ears with the cotton of positive dogmas and

traditions, through which they cannot hear it.[45]

The sermon too which I heard, though prepared beforehand, and read, was

stony and unprofitable. Preachers would do much more good if they would

lay aside the old mechanical custom of taking texts only out of the

Bible, and take them from local life and circumstances, and from human

society as it now exists; if they would rather seek to foster the

in-dwelling poetical religion, than the mere spirit of dogma; if they

would treat morality not only as the Commanded, but as the Beautiful and

the Useful,--the Necessary, indeed, to the happiness of the individual,

and of society. If more pains were taken to _instruct_ the working-man

from the pulpit,--to form him to _think_ instead of to _believe_,--crime

would soon become less frequent; he would begin to feel a real interest

in what he heard,--a positive want of the church and of the sermon, for

his own guidance and information: whereas he now attends them

mechanically and without reflection, or from some motives equally

unprofitable. The laws of the land, too, and not the Ten Commandments

alone, should be declared and expounded to the people from the

pulpit;--they should be made perfectly conversant with them, and with

the grounds of them; for, to use the words of Christ, how many sin

without knowing what they do![46]

The best practical receipt for a universal morality is, without doubt,

to ask oneself whether an action, or course of action, _if adopted by

every man_, would be useful or injurious to society. In the first case,

it is of course good,--in the second, bad. Had Governments, and those

upon whom devolves the sacred and neglected duty of instructing the

people, habituated them to the constant application of this test or

measure of conduct, and then demonstrated to them, directly, 'ad

oculos,' the inevitable, ultimate reaction of evil conduct _on

themselves_, they would, in the course of a few years, have improved not

only the morality of the country, but its physical condition and

commercial prosperity; whereas the ordinary priestly wisdom, which sets

faith, authority, and dogma above everything, has left mankind in the

same state for centuries,--if indeed it have not made them worse.

It would, perhaps, do no harm occasionally to choose teachers who have

been converted to virtue by experience of the evil consequences of vice

(as, for instance, the late Werner,) and who are therefore best informed

on the subject. Not only is there more joy in heaven over one sinner

that repenteth than over ninety-and-nine just men, but such a man is

more firm in his convictions and perceptions, and generally more zealous

in reclaiming others, as the examples of many holy men prove.

Above all, in every well-organized society all clergymen, be they of

what persuasion they may, must, in my opinion, be paid by fixed salary,

and not be permitted to take money for every separate consolation of

real, or ceremony of conventional, religion;--a meanness which

necessarily destroys all true reverence for the priest, and which must

degrade him in his own eyes, if he have any delicacy. It is really

dreadful to see the poor man stick his two _groschen_ behind the altar

for the holy elements he has just received; or crowd a fee into the

reverend gentleman's hand when his child is christened, just as if he

were giving him a shilling to drink. But when we hear the parson storm

and scold from the pulpit, because his offerings and tithes decrease;

when we hear him announce such a falling-off in his revenues as a proof

of the decline of religion; then, indeed, we feel distinctly why there

are so many parsons, and what they themselves regard as their true and

proper vocation. Soldiers naturally love war, and in like manner priests

love religion,--for their own advantage. But patriots love war only as a

means of obtaining freedom; and philosophers, religion only for its

beauty and its truth.

That is the difference.--But, as the author of the Zillah so truly says,

"Establishments endure longer than opinions; the church outlasts the

faith which founded it; and if a priesthood has once succeeded in

interweaving itself with the institutions of the country, it may

continue to subsist and to flourish long after its forms of worship is

regarded with aversion and contempt."

The afternoon was more satisfactory.--I climbed the hills around the

town, and at last crept up to the top of a windmill in order to see the

whole panorama of Brighton. The wind turned the sails of the mill with

such force that the whole building rocked like a ship. The miller's lad,

who had shown me the way up, went to a flourbin and took out a

telescope. Spite of its soft bed, it was unhappily broken. I was however

well satisfied with the general view, enlivened as it was by hundreds of

fishing-boats which seemed struggling with the storm, and hastened back

with the sinking sun to my social duties.

The party at Count F----'s was small but interesting; it was rendered

so in the first place by the host himself; then by a lady celebrated for

her beauty; and lastly, by a former well-known leader of 'ton' in Paris.

In his youth he played a considerable part there, and was at the same

time constantly implicated in political affairs. He now passes a great

part of the year in England, probably still not without political views.

He is one of that sort of men, daily becoming more rare, who live in

great style, one knows not how; contrive to acquire a sort of authority

everywhere, one knows not why; and under whom one always expects to find

something mysterious, one knows not wherefore. ---- is very agreeable, at

least when he chooses: he narrates admirably, and has forgotten nothing

of his eventful life which can give zest to his conversation. For

adventurers of this high order, whose consummate knowledge of the world

affords continual matter for admiration, (though generally employed only

to make dupes,) the French character is better suited than any other.

Their agreeableness in society smooths their way; and their not over

warm hearts and oeconomical understandings, (if I may use the

expression,) admirably enable them to keep all the ground they have won,

and to maintain a firm footing on it for ever.

The clever man of whom I am now speaking plays also very agreeably; and

jestingly declares, like Fox, that after the pleasure of winning, he

knows no greater than that of losing.

We talked a great deal about Napoleon, of whom our host, like all who

lived long in immediate intercourse with him, could not speak without

veneration. He mentioned a circumstance which struck me. The Emperor, he

said, was so incredibly exhausted by the violent excitement of the

Hundred Days and the events that succeeded them, that on his retreat

from Waterloo, in the early part of which he was protected by a

batallion of his 'Garde,' he proceeded very slowly, and without any

precipitation (quite contrary to our version of the affair.) Two or

three times he fell asleep on his horse; and would have fallen off, had

not Count F---- himself held him on. But the Count declared that, except

by this complete corporeal exhaustion, he never exhibited the slightest

mark of internal agitation.

_February 14th._

My original friend, the Scot--who, I am told, has killed two or three

men in duels--visited me this morning, and brought me his genealogy,

printed, with the whole history of his race or 'clan.' He complained

bitterly that another man of his name contested the rank of chieftain

with him; and took great pains to prove to me, from the work he had

brought, that he was the true one: he added, that "the judgment of

Heaven between them would be the best way of deciding their respective

claims." He then called my attention to his arms, of the origin of which

he related a curious history,

* * * * *

* * * * *

It was, like most of these traditions, poetical enough, and a striking

picture of those rude but vigorous ages. I did not fail to relate to him

a 'pendant' to his story, from the Nibelungenlied, concerning my own

ancestors;--probably both were equally true. We parted over the ghosts

of our forefathers, the best friends in the world.

There are now private balls every evening: and in rooms to which a

respectable German citizen would not venture to invite twelve people,

some hundreds are here packed like negro slaves. It is even worse than

in London; and the space allotted to the quadrilles allows only the

mathematical possibility of making something like dancing

demonstrations. A ball without this crowd would be despised; and a

visitor of any fashion who found the staircase empty, would probably

drive away from the door. This strange taste reminded me of one of

Potier's characters, a 'ci-devant jeune homme' who orders a pair of

pantaloons of his tailor which are to be 'extraordinairement collant:'

as the 'artiste' is going away he calls after him, "Entendez

vous?--extraordinairement collant; si j'y entre, je ne le prends pas."

In like manner an English dandy would say of a rout, "Si j'y entre, je

n'y vais pas."

When you are once in, however, I must confess that nowhere do you see a

greater number of pretty girls, against whom you are squeezed 'bongré

malgré,' than here. Some of them have been educated for a year or two in

France, and are distinguished for a better 'tournure' and style of

dress; many of them speak German. A man may have as many invitations to

'soirées' of this sort as he likes; but he may go away as perfect a

stranger as if he had been uninvited; for if he does not stay long, he

does not so much as see the hostess, and certainly she does not know

half the people present. At one o'clock a very 'recherché' cold supper

is served, with 'force champagne.' The supper-room is usually on the

ground-floor, and the table of course cannot contain above twenty

persons at a time, so that the company go down in troops, and meet,

pushing and elbowing, on the narrow staircase. If you succeed in

getting a seat, you may rest a little; and many avail themselves of this

privilege with small regard to their successors: little attention is

paid to giving place to the ladies. On the other hand, the servants are

very active in continually replacing the dishes and bottles, as fast as

they are emptied, on the side of the table to which the guests have no

access.

In order to see the whole of the thing, I stayed till four in the

morning in one of the best houses, and found the end of the fête, after

three-fourths of the company were gone, the most agreeable; the more so

as the daughters of the house were remarkably pretty amiable girls.

There were some famous originals, however, at the ball; among others, a

fat lady of at least fifty-five, dressed in black velvet with white

trimmings, and a turban with floating ostrich feathers, who waltzed like

a Bacchante whenever she could find room. Her very pretty daughters

tried in vain to rival their mamma. My curiosity being excited by such a

display of Herculean vigour and pertinacity, I found the lady's large

fortune had been made by speculations in cattle. The music in most of

these balls was extremely meagre and bad. The musicians, however,

contrive to produce such a noise with such instruments as they have,

that you cannot hear yourself speak near them.

_February 16th._

I read yesterday that "strong passions are increased by distance." Mine

for you must be very strong then--though indeed tender friendship is

ever the surest of any--for I love you better than ever:--but this is

intelligible enough. If we truly love a person, we have, when absent

from him, only his good and agreeable qualities before our eyes; the

unpleasant little defects which exist in every man, and which, however

trifling they may be, annoy us when present, vanish from our

recollection,--and thus love naturally increases in absence. And

you--what do you think on this subject? How many more faults have you to

cover with the mantle of Christian love in me!

I am going to London to-morrow, expressly to deliver this letter to our

ambassador with my own hands, since the last was delayed so long.

Probably it fell into the hands of the curious, for we shall not soon

get rid of the 'infamie' of opening letters. In two days I shall return,

and shall be happy enough to miss three or four balls in the

interval.--I took a long walk this morning, and this time not entirely

alone, but with one of the many agreeable girls I have met with here.

When young unmarried women are once 'lancées' in the world, they enjoy

more rational freedom in England than in any other country in Europe.

The young lady 'quæstionis' was just seventeen, and polished in Paris.

On my return home I found, to my no small astonishment, a letter from

the luckless R----, who has been again driven back to Harwich, and

despairingly implores money and help. Contrary to my desire, as I now

learn for the first time, he did not go by Calais. These wanderings of

the Garden-Odysseus are as ludicrous as they are disagreeable, and you

will doubtless think the adventurer 'malgré lui' is eaten by the fishes,

till you have ocular proof of the contrary. I recollect that twelve

years ago, about this same season, I was going to embark for Hamburg,

from which I was fortunately dissuaded by my old French valet. He said,

with rather an odd turn of expression; "Dans ces tems ci, il y a

toujours _quelques équinoxes_ dangéreuses, qui peuvent devenir

funestes." He was right; the vessel was wrecked, and several lives lost.

_London, Feb. 18th._

Honour to Mr. Temple!--Your letter, which he forwarded, reached me in

ten days, while those which come through our diplomacy are three weeks

on the road. Give him my best thanks. I laughed heartily at the news

H---- sends me so humourously. The little _Criminal-rath_ ('conseiller

criminel') whom the jester calls 'le Rat criminel'; the 'Renvoyé

extraordinaire,' and the 'Diplomate à la fourchette,' are admirably

painted; so is The Fortunate house-court-state-and body-servant. Don't

wonder at his success: it is indisputable that there is a sort of

narrowness which almost always succeeds in the world; and a character of

mind which never succeeds. Mine is of this latter sort--a fantastic

picture-making mind, that fashions its own dream-world anew every day,

and thence remains for ever a stranger in the actual world. You tell me

that if Fortune had offered herself to me, I should have slighted her,

or at most, playfully taken her by the finger, instead of clutching her

earnestly;--that I never valued the present till it stood as a picture

in the far distance;--that then indeed it was often a picture of

repentance and regret; the future, a picture of longing and aspiration;

the present, never anything but a misty spot. 'A merveille.' You say all

this most charmingly; and I must acknowledge that nobody understands

better how to moralize impressively than you.--If it were but of any use

to me! But tell me,--if you could convince the lame man that it were far

better for him not to be lame;--as soon as the poor wretch tries to set

one foot before the other, does he limp the less? 'Naturam expellas

furca,' &c. Vainly do you desire your stomach to digest better, your wit

to be sharper, your reason to be more efficient:--things go on in their

old train, with a few modifications.

The decisions of the Ministers on the S---- affair, which you

communicate to me, also remain after the old sort, in spite of the

extreme politeness of those gentlemen. Is it not strange, however, that

our inferior functionaries distinguish themselves as much by their

'tracasseries,' and by their ill-bred, and I might say contemptuous

style, as the higher do (with a single exception) by their care in using

none but the most refined and polished forms? Do not these on this very

account wear the appearance of the bitterest irony? You may give this as

a subject for a prize-essay to our G---- dilettante academy.

'A propos,'--who is that very wise Minister of whom H---- speaks? Ah ha!

I guess--but all Ministers are now-a-days so wise 'ex officio,' that it

is difficult to know which he means. The other, however, I guessed

instantly--as well as the pure horizontal individual, whose illness

grieves me heartily; for when he is well, he stands, in my opinion, most

singularly perpendicular, towering above disfavour or envy, by the

dignity of his character, and by his experience and talents for

business. There are, to be sure, some official persons in our country

whom one might fairly ask, with Bürger's Lenore, every time one sees

them, "Bist lebend, Liebster, oder todt?"[47]

Heaven preserve us both in better health of body and mind! And, above

all, may it preserve to me your tender friendship, the most essential

element of my well-being!

Your faithful L----.

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 93 / 212 题