BELOVED,

It is sometimes a perfect want with me to spend a day entirely alone in

my own room. I pass it in a sort of dreamy brooding. I go over the past

and the future,--all that I have felt and suffered,--till, by the

mixture of so many colours, one misty grey tint overspreads the whole;

and the dissonances of life melt away at length, in a soft objectless

melancholy.

The barrel-organs which resound day and night in every street, and are

at other times insufferable, are favourable to such a state of mind.

They too mingle a hundred different airs, till all music loses itself in

an indistinct dreamy ringing in the ears.

A much more entertaining thing is another sort of street performance,--a

genuine national comedy. It afforded me great amusement from my window,

and is well worth a somewhat particular description.

The hero of this drama is Punch,--the English Punch,--perfectly

different from the Italian Pulcinella. I send you a faithful portrait of

him in the act of beating his wife to death;--for he is the most godless

droll that ever I met with; and as completely without conscience as the

wood out of which he is made;--a little, too, the type of the nation he

represents.

Punch has, like his namesake, something of rum, lemon and sugar in him;

he is strong, sour and sweet, and withal pretty indifferent to the

confusion he causes. He is, moreover, the most absolute egotist the

earth contains, 'et ne doute jamais de rien.' He conquers everything by

his invincible merriment and humour, laughs at the laws, at men, and at

the devil himself; and shows in part what the Englishman is, in part

what he wishes to be, in one composite picture;--on the native side,

selfishness, perseverance and high spirit, and, wherever it is called

for, reckless determination;--on the foreign, unconquerable levity, and

ever ready wit. But allow me to paint Punch to you by his own proper

words, and to take my further account of him from his biography.

As a descendant of Pulcinella of Acerra, he is, in the first place,

unquestionably a nobleman of ancient stock. Harlequin, Clown, the German

Casperle and others are his near of kin;--but he, for his great

audacity, stands best as head of the family. Pious, alas! he is not:

being a true Englishman, he doubtless goes to church on Sundays; though,

may be, would beat any parson to death who bored him with attempts to

convert him. It is not to be denied that Punch is a wild fellow,--no

very moral personage, and not made of wood for nothing. No man can be

better fitted for a boxer,--other men's hits he feels not, and his own

are irresistible. With that, he is a true Turk in his small respect for

human life; endures no contradiction, and fears not the devil himself.

On the other hand, we can but admire his great qualities in many

respects. His admirable insensibility, and his already-commended

invariable good humour; his high heroic egotism; his unalterable

self-complacency; his exhaustless wit, and the consummate cunning with

which he gets himself out of every scrape, and triumphs victoriously

over every antagonist,--throws a bright lustre over all the little

freedoms which he is apt to take with human life. In him has not inaptly

been observed a compound of Richard the Third and Falstaff. Even in his

outward man he unites the crooked legs and hump-back of Richard, with

the portly rotundity of Falstaff; to which are added the long nose and

the fiery black eyes of Italy.

His dwelling is a box, with suitable internal decorations, set on four

poles,--a theatre which can be erected in a few seconds in any place; a

drapery falling over the poles, or legs, conceals Punch's soul, which

animates the puppets and lends them the needful words. The drama in

which he daily appears in the streets, varies, therefore, with the

talents of the person who acts as interpreter between Punch and the

public. The course of the incidents is however always essentially the

same, and pretty nearly as follows:

As the curtain rises, Punch is heard behind the scenes trolling the

French ballad 'Malbrooke s'en va-t-en guerre,' and presently appears

dancing, and in high good humour, and in droll verses tells the

spectators what manner of humour he is of. He calls himself a gay merry

fellow, who loves to give a joke, but is not very ready to take one; and

if he is ever gentle, it is only towards the fair sex. With his money he

is frank and free; and his grand object is to laugh his whole life long,

and to grow as fat as he can. He declares himself a great admirer and

seducer of the girls, and, as long as he can get it, a friend of good

cheer; when he cannot, however, he can live on cheese-parings, and if he

die--why then there's no more to be said, than that's all over, and

there's an end of Punch and the play. (This latter avowal unquestionably

smells a little of atheism.)

After this monologue, he calls behind the scene for Judy, his young

wife, who will not come, but at last sends her dog instead. Punch

strokes and caresses him, but the spiteful cur seizes him by the nose,

and holds him fast, till after a laughable fight, and various rough

jokes of the not too discreet Punch, he at last beats off the dog and

gives him a sound drubbing.

His neighbour Scaramouch, hearing the noise, here enters with a large

stick, and calls Punch to account why he beat Judy's favourite dog,

"that _never_ bit anybody." "And I _never_ beat a dog," replied Punch;

"but," continues he, "what have you there in your hand, my dear

Scaramouch?" "Oh, nothing but a fiddle; will you hear the tone of it? Do

but come and hear what a fine instrument it is." "Thank ye, thank ye, my

good Scaramouch," replies Punch modestly, "I can distinguish the tone of

it very well here." Scaramouch, however, is not to be so put off, and

while he dances about to the sound of his own singing, and flourishes

his stick, he gives Punch, as if by accident, a great knock on the head.

Punch affects not to heed it, but begins to dance too, and watching his

opportunity suddenly snatches the stick out of Scaramouch's hand, and in

a trice gives him such a blow with it that poor Scaramouch's head rolls

down at his feet,--for where Punch lays about him the grass does not

grow. "Ha! ha!" cries he, laughing, "did you hear the fiddle, my good

Scaramouch? What a fine tone it has! As long as you live, my lad, you'll

never hear a finer. But where is my Judy? My sweet Judy, why don't you

come."

Meanwhile Punch has hidden the body of Scaramouch behind the curtain,

and Judy, the 'feminine' pendant of her husband, with the same monstrous

nose, enters. A comically tender scene ensues, after which Punch asks

for his child; Judy goes to fetch it, and Punch breaks forth into an

ecstatic monologue on his happiness as a husband and father. The little

monster arrives, and now the parents can hardly contain themselves for

joy, and lavish upon it the tenderest names and caresses. Judy, however,

called away by her household duties, soon departs, and leaves the infant

in its father's arms, who somewhat awkwardly tries to play the nurse and

to dandle the child, which begins to cry piteously, and to behave very

naughtily. Punch at first tries to soothe it, but soon grows impatient,

beats it, and, as it screams all the more violently, he flies into a

rage, and throws it out of the window, with curses, plump into the

street, where it falls among the spectators and breaks its neck. Punch

leans over the edge of the stage and looks after it, makes a few

grimaces, shakes his head, and begins to laugh, and then dances about,

singing merrily.

Meantime Judy returns, and asks with alarm for her darling. "The child

is gone to sleep," replies Punch carelessly; however, after a long

investigation he is forced to confess that while he was playing with

him, he let him fall out of the window. Judy is out of herself, tears

her hair, and overwhelms her cruel tyrant with the most dreadful

reproaches. In vain does he try to soothe her; she will not hear him,

and runs away uttering vehement threats. Punch holds his belly for

laughter, dances about, and for very wantonness, beats time with his own

head upon the walls. But Judy now comes behind him with a broomstick and

belabours him with all her might.

At first he gives her good words, promises never to throw another child

out of the window; begs her, however, not to take the joke so

seriously;--but finding that nothing will avail, he loses his patience

at last, and concludes the affair as with Scaramouch;--he beats poor

Judy to death. "Now," says he drily, "our quarrel is over, dear Judy,

and if you are satisfied, so am I. Come, stand up again, Judy. Oh, don't

sham, this is only one of your tricks. What, you won't get up? Well,

then, off with you!" So saying, he flings her after her child into the

street.

He does not even trouble himself to look after her, but bursting into

one of his usual fits of loud laughter, cries out, "'Tis a fine piece of

luck to lose a wife!"

In the second act we find Punch at a rendezvous with his mistress Polly,

to whom he pays his court, not in the most refined manner, and assures

her that she alone can drive away all his cares, and that if he had as

many wives as Solomon, he could kill them all for her sake. A courtier

and friend of Polly's then pays him a visit; this time he does not kill

his man, but only thrashes him well: he is then 'ennuyé,' and declares

that the weather being fine he will take a ride. A wild horse is

brought, upon which he capers about for some time in a ludicrous

fashion; but at last, from the dreadful plunging of the untameable

animal, is thrown. He calls out for help, and happily his friend the

doctor happens to be passing, and comes immediately. Punch lies like

dead, and groans piteously. The doctor tries to tranquillize him, and

feels his pulse: Punch, to be short, makes so uncivil a return for the

doctor's attentions, that the latter exclaims, "Here, Master Punch, I

bring you a wholesome medicine, the only one fit for you," and begins to

thump him soundly with his gold-headed cane.

"Oh dear!" cries Punch, "many thanks to you; I want none of your physic,

it gives me the headache." "Ah, that's only because you have taken it in

too small doses," says the doctor; "take a little more, and it will cure

you."

Punch at last feigns himself conquered, falls down exhausted, and begs

for mercy; but when the credulous doctor bends down over him, Punch

darts upon him like lightning, wrests the stick out of his hand and lays

about him as usual.

"Now," cries he, "you must take a little of your charming physic,--only

a little, respected friend;--there--there!"

"Oh Lord, you will kill me!" cries the doctor.

"Not worth talking of--only what's usual--doctors always die when they

take their own physic. Come, only one last pill:" and so saying, the

ruthless Punch runs him through the body with the point of his stick.

The doctor dies. Punch, laughing, exclaims, "Now, my good friend, cure

yourself if you can."

[_Exit, singing and dancing._

After other adventures, which have almost all the same tragical end,

justice is at length awake, and the constable is sent to arrest Punch.

He finds him, as usual, in the highest glee, and just busied, as he

says, in making music with the help of a dustman's bell (a very 'naïf'

confession of the musical capacity of the nation.)

The dialogue is brief and important.[27] It ends with the constable

showing Punch the warrant for his arrest: "And," says Punch, "I have a

warrant for you, which I will soon execute." Hereupon he seizes the

bell, which he has held concealed behind him, and gives the constable

such a blow on the occiput, that, like his predecessors, he falls

lifeless; whereupon Punch springs off with a 'capriole,' and is heard

singing behind the scenes.

The magistrate, who comes after the death of the constable, has no

better fate. At length the hangman, in proper person, lies in wait for

Punch, who in his joyous recklessness runs upon him without seeing him.

For the first time he seems somewhat embarrassed by this rencontre, is

very slightly cast down, and does his best to flatter Mr. Ketch; calls

him his old friend, and inquires very particularly after the health of

Mistress Ketch. The hangman, however, soon makes him understand that all

friendship must now have an end; and sets before him what a bad man he

is to have killed so many men, and his wife and child.

"As to them," says he, "they were my own property, and 'tis hard if a

man may not do what he likes with his own." "And why did you kill the

poor doctor, who came to help you?" "Only in self-defence, good Mr.

Ketch; he wanted me to take his medicine."

But all excuses and evasions are useless. Three or four men spring

forward and bind Punch, whom Ketch leads to prison.

In the next scene we behold him at the back of the stage, trying to look

out from behind an iron grating, and rubbing his long nose against the

bars. He is very wroth and miserable, yet, according to his use and

wont, sings a song to drive away time. Mr. Ketch enters, and with the

assistance of his helpers erects a gallows before the prison-door. Punch

becomes sorrowful, but, instead of feeling repentance, has only a fit of

greater fondness and longing for his Polly. He however mans himself

again, and makes various 'bon mots' on the handsome gallows, which he

compares to a tree planted, as it seems, for the adornment of his

prospect. "How beautiful it will be when it bears fruit!" cries he.

Some men now bring the coffin, and place it at the foot of the gallows.

"What have you there?" says Punch. "Ah ha! that is no doubt the basket

to put the fruit in."

Meanwhile Ketch returns, and greeting Punch, and opening the door

politely, tells him that all is ready,--he may come when he likes. You

may think that Punch is not very eager to accept the invitation. After a

good deal of discussion Ketch calls out, "It's of no use, Master Punch,

you must come out and be hanged."

"You won't be so cruel."

"Why were you so cruel as to kill your wife and child?"

"Is that any reason for your being cruel too?"--(argument against

capital punishment.)

Ketch appeals to no better principle than that of the strongest, and

drags out Punch by his hair, begging for mercy and promising amendment.

"Now, my good Punch," says Ketch, coolly, "do but have the goodness to

put your head into this noose, and all will soon be over." Punch affects

awkwardness, and can't get his head right into the noose.

"Good God! how awkward you are!" exclaims Ketch; "you must put your head

in so"--showing him. "Ay so, and then draw it tight," cries Punch,

drawing up the unwary hangman in a moment, and hanging him on the

gallows; after which he hides himself behind the wall. Two men come to

take away the body, lay it in the coffin, believing it to be that of the

criminal, and carry it out, while Punch laughs in his sleeve, and dances

away as usual.

But the shrewdest battle is yet to come, for the devil himself 'in

propriâ personâ,' now comes to fetch him. Vainly does Punch lay before

him the most acute observations; that he is a very stupid devil to wish

to carry off the best friend he has on earth, and the like. The devil

will not hear reason, and stretches out his long claws horribly at him.

He appears just about to fly away with him, as erst with Faust, but

Punch is not so easily to be dealt with; manfully he grasps his

murderous staff, and defends himself even against the devil. A fearful

fight ensues, and--who would have thought it possible?--Punch, so often

in uttermost danger, at length remains universal conqueror, spits the

black fiend on his stick, holds him up aloft, and whirling about with

him with shouts of triumph, sings, while he laughs more heartily than

ever.

I leave it to you to make all the philosophical reflections; of which

Punch's career is fitted to excite not a few. Above all interesting

would be the inquiry, how far the daily repetition of this favourite

popular drama for so many years has influenced the morality of the lower

classes.

To conclude,--for the sake of tragic justice, I sketch on the margin of

my sheet a second portrait of Punch, as he appears sitting in prison,

when the gallows is just brought before him.

In my next letter you will have all the details you desire concerning

B----, which pious personage I have to-day forgotten for the more

interesting sinner Punch.--Adieu for to day!

_December 1st._

You remember what I told you of the mode of letting land in this

country. As the builders of houses have only ninety-nine years to reckon

on, they build as slightly as possible; the consequence of which is that

one is not very sure of one's life in some of the London houses. A

house, by no means old, fell last night in St. James's street, close by

me, just like a house of cards, carrying the half of another with it.

Several persons were severely hurt, but the greater number had time to

escape, as there were threatening warnings. Such is the rapidity with

which they build here, that in a month the whole will doubtless be

standing again, though perhaps not much safer than before.

A few days ago I attended the interesting ceremony of the opening of

Parliament by the King in person; a ceremony which has not taken place

for several years.

In the centre of the House of Lords were assembled the Peers, their

scarlet mantles negligently thrown over their ordinary morning dress.

Near the wall opposite to the entrance stood the King's throne; on

benches on the left sat a number of ladies in full dress; on the right

the diplomatic corps and foreigners. In front of the throne was a bar,

and behind it the members of the Lower House, in the common dress of our

day. The house without, and the staircase, were filled with servants and

heralds in the costume of the fourteenth century.

At two o'clock discharges of cannon announced the arrival of the King in

state. A number of magnificent carriages and horses composed the

procession, a sketch of which I have taken in my book of

reminiscences,[28] and have placed it in contrast with a drawing of one

of Cæsar's triumphs. At the sight of these pictures one involuntarily

asks oneself, whether mankind have really made any progress. Scarcely,

as it seems, in as far as art is concerned; especially when we look at

the two prominent personages,--those who occupy the highest seats at the

respective ceremonies,--the King's body-coachman, and Cæsar.

At about half-past three the King made his appearance, he alone being in

full dress, and truly covered from top to toe with the ancient kingly

decorations; with the crown on his head and the sceptre in his hand. He

looked pale and bloated, and was obliged to sit on the throne for a

considerable time before he could get breath enough to read his speech.

During this time he turned friendly glances and considerable bows

towards some favoured ladies. On his right stood Lord Liverpool, with

the sword of state and the speech in his hand; and the Duke of

Wellington on his left. All three looked so miserable, so ashy-gray and

worn out, that never did human greatness appear to me so little worth;

indeed the tragic side of all the comedies we play here below, fell

almost heavily on my heart; and yet it excited in me a strong feeling of

the comic, to see how the most powerful monarch of the earth was obliged

to present himself, as chief actor in a pantomime, before an audience

whom he deems so infinitely beneath him. In fact, the whole pageant,

including the King's costume, reminded me strikingly of one of those

historical plays which are here got up so well; nothing was wanting but

the 'flourish of trumpets' which accompanies the entrance and exit of

one of Shakspeare's kings, to make the illusion complete.

In spite of his feebleness, George the Fourth read the 'banale' speech

with great dignity and a fine voice; but with that royal 'nonchalance'

which does not much concern itself what His Majesty promises, or whether

or not he is sometimes unable to decipher a word. It was very evident

that the monarch was heartily glad when the 'corvée' was over, so that

the conclusion went off somewhat more rapidly than the beginning.

Since my last letter I have been twice to the theatre, which the late

hours of dining render it impossible to do when one has any engagement.

I saw Mozart's Figaro announced at Drury-lane, and delighted myself with

the idea of hearing once more the sweet tones of my fatherland:--what

then was my astonishment at the unheard-of treatment which the

master-work of the immortal composer has received at English hands! You

will hardly believe me when I tell you that neither the Count, the

Countess, nor Figaro sang; these parts were given to mere actors, and

their principal songs, with some little alteration in the words, were

sung by the other singers; to add to this, the gardener roared out some

interpolated popular English songs, which suited Mozart's music just as

a pitch-plaster would suit the face of the Venus de' Medici. The whole

opera was moreover 'arranged' by a certain Mr. Bishop (a circumstance

which I had seen noticed in the bill, but did not understand till

now),--that is, adapted to English ears by means of the most tasteless

and shocking alterations.

The English national music, the coarse heavy melodies of which can never

be mistaken for an instant, has, to me at least, something singularly

offensive; an expression of brutal feeling both in pain and pleasure,

which smacks of 'roast-beef, plum-pudding, and porter.' You may imagine,

therefore, what an agreeable effect these incorporations with the lovely

and refined conceptions of Mozart must produce.

'Je n'y pouvais tenir'--poor Mozart appeared to me like a martyr on the

cross, and I suffered no less by sympathy.

This abominable practice is the more inexcusable, since here is really

no want of meritorious singers, male and female; and, with better

arrangement, very good performances might be given. It is true, even if

the stage were in good order, a second Orpheus would still be required

to tame English audiences.

Far better was the performance in Covent Garden, where Charles Kemble,

one of the best English actors, gave an admirable representation of the

part of Charles the Second. Kemble is a man of the best education, and

has always lived in good society; he is therefore qualified to represent

a king royally;--with the 'aisance,' that is proper to all exalted

persons. He very skilfully gave an amiable colouring to the levity of

Charles the Second; without ever, even in moments of the greatest

'abandon,' losing the type of that inborn conscious dignity, so

difficult to imitate. The costume, too, was as if cut out of the frame

of an old picture, down to the veriest trifle; and this was observed by

all the other actors, for which Kemble, who is also manager, deserves

great praise.

I must, however, confess that in the next piece, in which Frederick the

Great plays the principal part, there was not the same intimate

knowledge and perfect imitation of foreign costume; both the king and

his suite seemed to have borrowed their wardrobe from that of a

pantomime. Zieten presented himself in a high grenadier's cap, and

Seydlitz appeared in locks 'a là Murat,' and with as many orders as that

royal actor used to wear; a profusion of which were by no means the

fashion in Frederick's day, nor were they then worn as mere appendages

of the toilet.

_December 2nd._

I often dine at Prince E----'s, who exhibits a perfect model to

'diplomates' how dignified 'représentation' may be combined with

agreeable facile manners; and how a man may please every body if he

understands the art of placing himself 'à sa portée,' yet without

suffering his own dignity to be forgotten for an instant:--'un vrai

Seigneur,'--such as are every day becoming rarer. Never too did a

foreigner _succeed_ so perfectly in England; and yet, most assuredly,

without the slightest concession to English arrogance. This implies

infinite tact; the lighter, more vivacious character of a South German;

and the most astute intellect concealed beneath the most unpretending

'bonhommie;' the whole backed and set off by a great name and a splendid

fortune.

The other members of the diplomatic corps, with few exceptions, are left

by him quite in the back-ground, and most of the plenipotentiaries here

disappear completely in the crowd. Among the ambassadors there is,

however, one of the female sex who plays a great part * * * But more of

this another time. I entered upon the subject of Diplomates, only for

the sake of repeating to you a very pretty 'bon mot' of one of them

whom you know. I heard it to-day at dinner. Count H---- was ambassador

at a German court renowned for its economy ('pour ne pas dire

mesquinerie,') and on some solemn occasion received a snuff-box with the

portrait of the sovereign; which, however, was set round with very

small, paltry diamonds. Shortly afterwards, one of his colleagues asked

him to show him his present. "Vous ne trouverez pas le portrait

ressemblant," said the Count, giving him the snuff-box,--"mais les

diamants."

I occasionally see, with great satisfaction, the venerable Elliot, who,

together with the dry but very interesting Lord St. Helens, whom Ségur

so often mentions in his Memoirs, belongs to the 'Doyens' of English

diplomacy, and still dwells with extraordinary pleasure on the

recollection of his residence at Dresden. He has several very charming

daughters, and finds it difficult to live in a style befitting his rank,

for his long services have not been rewarded with English

liberality.[29]

Another very interesting person is Sir L---- M----, who was formerly in

high favour with the king, then Prince of Wales, and deserves mention,

first, because he is a most agreeable Amphitryon and entertains his

friends admirably, and secondly, because he is one of the most original

of men, and one of the few _truly practical_ philosophers I have ever

met with. The prejudices of the many seem for him to have no existence;

and nobody could be more difficult to impose on by mere authority,

whether on matters of heaven or earth. Although sixty years old, and a

martyr to the most unheard-of tortures with which gout and stone can

rack an unhappy mortal, no one ever heard a complaint from him; nor is

his cheerful, nay merry humour ever saddened by it for a moment. It must

be confessed that there are dispositions and temperaments which are

worth a hundred thousand a year.

When I was first introduced to him, a short time since, he had just

undergone the terrible operation for the stone. The surgeon refused to

undertake it, on the ground that the weakness of the patient rendered it

too hazardous, but was at length almost compelled by him to perform it.

At that time he kept his bed, and looked like a corpse, and at going in

I involuntarily made 'une mine de doléance,' upon which he instantly

interrupted me, and told me to lay aside all grimaces. "What cannot be

cured," said he, "must be endured; and better gaily, that sadly:" for

himself, he said, he had certainly abundant cause to laugh at his

physicians, who had given him his passport with the utmost certainty at

least ten times, but had almost all gone to the d--l before him.

"Besides," said he, "I have enjoyed life as few have, and must now learn

the dark side." In spite of all his pleasures, and all his pains, the

gay-hearted man is still in such good preservation, that, since he is

about again, with his artist-like peruque, he does not look much above

forty, and exhibits a spirited and 'rayonnante' physiognomy, whose

features must once have been handsome.

_December 3rd._

Kemble gave me a high treat this evening as Falstaff. It is certain that

even the greatest dramatic poets stand in need of the actor's aid to

bring out their work. I never so fully understood the character of the

mad knight; never was it so manifest to me what his outward deportment

must have been, as since I saw him new-born in the person of Charles

Kemble. His dress and mask were striking indeed, but by no means such a

caricature as on our stages. Still less had he the air of a man of low

rank and breeding, visibly a mere 'farceur,' as Devrient, for instance,

represented him in Berlin. Falstaff, although a man of vulgar _soul_, is

still by habit and inclination a practised courtier; and the coarseness

which he often assumes in the prince's company is at least as much

intentional acting, employed by him to amuse the Prince (for princes

often love vulgarity from its very contrast with the gloomy elevation of

their own station,) as to gratify his own humour. Mr. Kemble caught the

finest shades of the character; for, although he never lost sight of the

natural, invincible humour, the witty presence of mind, and the

diverting drollery which made Falstaff such an agreeable

companion,--nay, which rendered him almost a necessary of life to those

who had once associated with him,--he is quite another man when he

appears at Court in the presence of the king and other dignified

persons; or when he plays antics with the Prince and his companions; or,

lastly, when he is alone with the latter. In the first case, you see a

facetious man, somewhat like the Maréchal de Bassompierre, ludicrously

fat, but a man of dignified and gentleman-like air; always a joker, it

is true, but in a good 'ton,' never forgetting the respect due to the

place and the presence in which he is. In the second stage, he allows

himself to go much further; takes all sorts of coarse freedoms; but ever

with observable care to exalt the Prince, and to assume only the

privilege of a Court fool, who, _apparently_, may say all that comes

into his head. In the last stage, we see Falstaff in complete 'negligé,'

after he has thrown off all regard to appearances. Here he wallows

delightfully in the mire, like a swine in a ditch; and yet even here he

still remains original, and excites more laughter than disgust. This is

the supreme art, the last triumph of the poet: he alone can give, even

to the most horrid monsters of sin and shame, something like a divine

impress; something which awakens our interest and attracts us, even to

our own astonishment. This is the high dramatic truth, the creative

power of genius, speaking of which Walter Scott so prettily says, "I can

only compare Shakspeare with that man in the Arabian Nights, who has the

power of passing into any body at pleasure, and imitating its feelings

and actions."

I must here remark, that there is but one character in this immortal

poet's works which always appeared to me ill-drawn and unnatural, nor

does any excite less interest in general. This is the king in Hamlet. To

mention only one trait, it appears to me quite psycologically false,

when the author makes the king kneel down, and then exclaim, "I cannot

pray." The king is never represented as an irreligious man, a subtle

sceptic, but merely as a coarse sensual sinner; now we daily see that a

man of this cast cannot only pray regularly and zealously, but even pray

that his crimes may prosper: like that woman who was found alone in a

robber's cave, after the capture of the gang, on her knees, praying

earnestly to heaven that the expedition in which she believed them then

engaged might be successful, and that they might return laden with

booty.

Nay even public pre-appointed prayers have often no better aim. What

examples of this kind does not history afford! No, the sinful king _can_

pray,--the person in this tragedy who _cannot_, is Hamlet. For it is

only the unbelieving; the man who wants to fathom everything; the

spiritual chemist who sees one apparently firm substance after another

melt away; this man--till he is enabled by the divine influence to

construct one,[30] inward and indestructible, (and this point Hamlet

has manifestly not reached) this man alone, I say, _cannot pray_, for

the Object fails him. He cannot deny it to himself,--when he prays, he

is only acting a part with himself. This is a melancholy process to pass

through, and is imputed to unhappy mortals as a crime by those who first

place the poor child on the bed of Procrustes, and by that means often

render it impossible for the cramped and shortened limbs ever to extend

themselves again to their natural length.

But back to the play. It concluded with a melo-drama, in which a large

Newfoundland dog really acted admirably; he defended a banner for a long

time, pursued the enemy, and afterwards came on the stage wounded, lame,

and bleeding, and died in the most masterly manner, with a last wag of

the tail that was really full of genius. You would have sworn that the

good beast knew at least as well as any of his human companions what he

was about.

I left the theatre in such good humour that I won eight rubbers at whist

after it at the Club, for luck at play goes with good spirits and

confidence.--But good night.

_December 4th._

In consequence of the opening of Parliament, society begins to be more

lively, though London 'en gros' is still empty.

The most elegant ladies of the first circles now give small parties,

access to which is far more difficult to most Englishmen than to

foreigners of rank; for the despotism of fashion, as I have already told

you, rules in this land of freedom with iron sceptre, and extends

through all classes in a manner we on the Continent have no conception

of.

But without indulging too early in general observations, I will describe

to you my own way of life in London.

I rise late; read, like a half-nationalized foreigner, three or four

newspapers at breakfast; look in my 'visiting-book' what visits I have

to pay, and either drive to pay them in my cabriolet or ride. In the

course of these excursions, I sometimes catch the enjoyment of the

picturesque; the struggle of the blood-red sun with the winter fogs

often produces wild and singular effects of light. After my visits are

paid, I ride for several hours about the beautiful environs of London,

return when it grows dark, work a little, dress for dinner, which is at

seven or eight, and spend the evening either in the theatre or at some

small party. The ludicrous 'routs,'--at which one hardly finds

standing-room on the staircase,--where one pushes and is pushed, and is

kept for hours in a hot-house temperature,--have not yet commenced. In

England however, except in a few diplomatic houses, you can go nowhere

in an evening except on special invitation. In these small parties there

is not much 'géne,' but general conversation has no place: each

gentleman usually singles out a lady who peculiarly interests him, and

does not quit her for the whole evening. Many fair ones are thus

frequently left sitting alone, without an opportunity of speaking a

word; they however do not betray any dissatisfaction, even by a look or

gesture, for they are of a very passive nature. Every body of course

speaks French, as with us, 'tant bien que mal,' but this continued

'géne' annoys the ladies so much after a time, that a man has no little

advantage who can speak English tolerably.

You see this life is pretty much a 'far niente,' though not a very sweet

one to my taste, for I love society only in intimate circles, and attach

myself with difficulty,--indeed now scarcely at all,--to new

acquaintances. The ennui, which seizes me in such an indifferent state

of mind, is too clearly written on my undiplomatic face not to extend to

others as contagiously as yawning. Here and there I find an

exception:--to-day for instance I made the acquaintance of Mr. Morier,

the clever and very agreeable author of Hadji Baba; and of Mr. Hope, the

imputed author of Anastasius, a work of far higher genius. This book is

worthy of Byron: many maintain that Mr. Hope, who is rather remarkable

for his reserve than for anything poetical in his appearance, cannot

possibly have written it. This doubt derives considerable force from a

work which Mr. Hope formerly published on furniture, the style and

contents of which certainly contrast strangely with the glowing

impassioned Anastasius, overflowing with thought and feeling. An

acquaintance of mine said to me, "One thing or the other: either

Anastasius is not by him, or the work on furniture." But matter so

different brings with it as different a style; and as I observed Mr.

Hope, perhaps with involuntary prepossession, he appeared to me no

ordinary man. He is very rich, and his house full of treasures of art,

and of luxuries which I shall describe hereafter. His furniture theory,

which is fashioned on the antique, I cannot praise in practice:--the

chairs are ungovernable; other trophy-like structures look ridiculous,

and the sofas have such sharp salient points in all directions, that an

incautious sitter might hurt himself seriously.

On my return home at night I found your letter, which, like everything

from you, gave me more pleasure than aught else can. Say not, however,

that the pain of parting occasions you such deep depression,--let it not

be deeper than a joyful meeting can at once remove; and that is probably

not very distant.

That you point to another life, as soon as things do not go precisely

according to our wishes in this, seems to me, dearest, to show a want of

Christian patience and confidence. No, I confess it, spite of transient

fits of melancholy, I still feel the attraction of earth; and this 'span

of life,' as you call it, has strong hold on my heart. If indeed you, my

affectionate tutelary goddess, were also Fortuna, I should fare better

than any mortal living: 'et toutes les étoiles pâliraient devant la

mienne;'--but since you love me, you are my Fortuna, and I desire no

better.

Do not suffer your own melancholy, or mine, to deceive you. As for me,

you know that a nothing raises the barometer of my spirits, and a

nothing often depresses it. This is certainly too delicate a nervous

organization, and little fitted for every-day, home-baked

(_hausbacknen_) happiness,--which requires strong nerves.

_December 5th._

Oberon, Weber's song of the swan, has occupied my evening.--The

execution of both the instrumental and vocal parts left much to desire;

but on the whole, the opera was extremely well performed, for London.

The best part was the decorations, especially at the conjuration of the

spirits. They appear, not, as usual, in the standing costume,--scarlet

jackets and breeches, with snaky locks and flames on their heads,--but

in the form of huge rocky caves, which occupy the whole stage; every

mass of rock then suddenly changes into some fantastic and frightful

form or face, gleaming with many-coloured flames and lurid light, out of

which here and there a whole figure leans grinning forward, while the

fearful thrilling music re-echoes on every side from the moving chorus

of rocks.

The opera itself I regard as one of Weber's feebler productions. There

are beautiful parts, especially the introduction, which is truly

elf-like. I am less delighted with the overture, though so highly

extolled by connoisseurs.

I ought to have begun by telling you that I was presented to the King

to-day, at a great levée.--I give you as a proof of the extraordinary

voluntary seclusion of the present sovereign, that our Secretary of

Legation was presented with me _for the first time_, though he has been

here in that capacity for two years. His Majesty has a very good memory.

He immediately recollected my former visit to England, though he mistook

the date of it by several years. I took occasion to make my compliments

to him on the extraordinary embellishment of London since that time,

which indeed is to be ascribed in great measure to him. After a gracious

reply, I passed on, and placed myself in a convenient station for seeing

the whole spectacle. It was odd enough.

The king, on account of the feeble state of his health, remained

seated;--the company marched past him in a line; each made his bow, was

addressed or not, and then either placed himself in the row on the other

side of the room, or quitted it. All those who had received any

appointment kneeled down before the king and kissed his hand, at which

the American Minister, near whom I had accidentally placed myself, made

a rather satirical face. The clergymen and lawyers in their black gowns

and white powdered wigs, short and long, had a most whimsical

masquerading appearance. One of them was the object of an almost

universal ill-suppressed laugh. This personage had kneeled to be

'knighted,' as the English call it, and in this posture, with the long

fleece on his head, looked exactly like a sheep at the slaughter-block.

His Majesty signed to the great Field Marshal to give him his sword. For

the first time, perhaps, the great warrior could not draw the sword from

the scabbard; he pulled and pulled,--all in vain. The king waiting with

outstretched arm; the duke vainly pulling with all his might; the

unhappy martyr prostrate in silent resignation, as if expecting his end,

and the whole brilliant court standing around in anxious

expectation:--it was a group worthy of Gilray's pencil. At length the

state weapon started like a flash of lightning from its sheath. His

Majesty grasped it impatiently,--indeed his arm was probably weary and

benumbed with being so long extended,--so that the sword, instead of

alighting on a new knight, fell on an old wig, which for a moment

enveloped king and subject in a cloud of powder.

_December 6th._

Mr. R---- had long ago invited me to visit him at his country-house, and

I took advantage of a disengaged day to drive out with my friend L---- to

dine there. The royal banker has bought no ducal residence, but lives in

a pretty villa. We found some Directors of the East India Company, and

several members of his own family and faith, whom I liked very much. I

extremely respect this family for having the courage to remain Jews.

Only an idiot can esteem a Jew the less for his religion, but renegades

have always a presumption against their sincerity, which it is difficult

to get over.

There are three cases in which I should unconditionally allow Jews to

change their religion. First, if they really believe that only

Christians can be saved; secondly, if their daughters wish to marry

Christians, who will have them on no other terms; thirdly, if a Jew were

elected king of a Christian people,--a thing by no means impossible,

since men far below the rank of Jewish barons, and notorious for the

absence of all religion, have frequently ascended the throne in these

latter days.[31]

Mr. R---- was in high good-humour, amusing, and talkative. It was

diverting to hear him explain to us the pictures around his dining-room,

(all portraits of the sovereigns of Europe, presented through their

ministers,) and talk of the originals as his very good friends, and, in

a certain sense, his equals. "Yes," said he, "the ---- once pressed me

for a loan, and in the same week in which I received his autograph

letter, his father wrote to me also with his own hand from Rome to beg

me for Heaven's sake not to have any concern in it, for that I could not

have to do with a more dishonest man than his son." 'C'était sans doute

très Catholique;' probably, however, the letter was written by the

old ----, who hated her own son to such a degree, that she used to say of

him,--everybody knows how unjustly,--"He has the heart of a t---- with

the face of an a----."

Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829. with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. · 第 79 / 212 题