CHAPTER VIII

HOSPITALITY

Hospitality, as generally practised in the three kingdoms, is a

very delightful thing, but to the lecturer it is apt to be deadly,

unless indeed he is churlish and refuses to reciprocate at all to the

kindness shown him. Occasionally, of course, one meets with that most

objectionable person whose only reason for giving you an invitation is

that you may amuse his or her guests and incidentally shed lustre upon

your host as being able to catch such a lion and induce him to roar to

order. Happily such folks are rare and are becoming rarer, yet still

many lecturers have a well-founded fear of being “entertained within

an inch of their lives,” and make it a rule to refuse all invitations,

preferring to go to an hotel where they can have what they like to eat,

go to bed when they like, and get up ditto without fear of putting

anybody out or appearing faddish.

I cannot help feeling glad though that I never reached that stage, for

I cherish the most delightful memories of all my hosts and hostesses,

save two or three, and those only during the South African War, when

some of the best and most truthful of men seemed to lose their heads

and forget what the truth was, deeming any falsehood believable if it

would blacken the character of men who were giving their lives for

their country. I certainly did have some bad times with those people,

and have had to leave the company to avoid speaking my mind, but I hope

that will soon all be forgotten now.

What I chiefly prize about the hospitality which I received is the

numbers of good friends, not ephemera, but real friends that I made.

I have gone into a house one day and left it the next, having in the

meantime made friends whom I can never cease to love while I live and

who I feel humbly grateful to think will never cease to love me until

they can love no longer. But of all the hospitality I ever enjoyed the

quaintest was at Rishton, a suburb of Blackburn, and the manner of it

was as follows. I was lecturing at Blackburn in the Town Hall, and on

arrival went to the principal hotel with the secretary of the society

who met me at the station. There, however, I could only get a bathroom

to change in, for they were full, and my friend sent a man round with

my bag to another hotel, assuring me that I should be all right there.

After the lecture the secretary invited me to spend an hour at the

club, and as I felt fresh I readily consented. There I was introduced

to a number of genial clubmen, and the time flew rapidly by until one

of those present said:

“I don’t want to break up this happy gathering, but I understand Mr.

Bullen’s staying at the ----, and if he doesn’t go now he’ll get shut

out. It’s eleven o’clock, and they’re mighty particular.”

I rose at once and began to shake hands, when one of the members said

nonchalantly:

“Mr. Bullen isn’t stopping at the ----, he’s stopping with me. George,

go over to the ---- and ask for Mr. Bullen’s bag; tell ’em I sent you.”

There was some little, very little, palaver over this, but I laughed

and said I was quite happy whichever way it was, and so we settled down

again. It was something past two and only a few of the members remained

when my host said cheerily:

“Now, Mr. Bullen, if you’re quite ready, don’t let me hurry you, I

think we’ll be getting home.”

I rose with haste and professed my perfect readiness to go, indeed I

had been wondering slightly how much longer this club séance was going

to last. My host then shouted:

“George, call a hansom! An’ see what sort of a night it is, won’t ye?”

Anon George returned, having got a hansom, and the information that it

was raining in torrents. Bah, what did that matter? It was dry inside

the cab, and although I did feel some qualms about the driver being out

in that downpour through four dark miles, I was not in a pessimistic

mood, neither was my friend. So we bumped along, chatting gaily,

until suddenly my friend smote his knee and uttered a resounding

exclamation. Naturally I enquired what had bitten him. After anxiously

feeling in all his pockets he replied:

“I’ve left my key in my office in Manchester, my family are at

Bournemouth, and the old woman who does for me goes home at nine

o’clock. Funny thing, won’t it be, if I can’t get into my own house?”

I made some banal reply, but even this was not sufficient to disturb

my optimistic humour, and soon we were both laughing heartily at the

episode. Meanwhile the horse plugged steadily on, and at last drew up

outside the gate of a fine house. The rain was, if anything, worse, but

out jumped my friend, bidding me stay where I was in the dry. I think

I should have stayed there anyhow, for with all my good feelings I did

not see how I could help matters by getting wet. After quite a long

absence my friend returned to report that he had tried every possible

door and window within reach only to find them all securely fastened.

And the only thing to do now was to drive a mile further to the village

where the old caretaker lived, rouse her up, get the key from her, and

come back.

I acquiesced cheerfully, making no comment on my friend’s saturated

condition but thinking ruefully of the poor cabman from whom we had not

yet heard. When we arrived at the old lady’s house and while my friend

was battering at her door to the consternation of the neighbourhood, I

looked at my watch and found that it was 3.15. And I softly chuckled

to myself until I thought of the poor fellow in the dickey. However,

my friend got his key--I heard it fall from an upper window on to the

pavement--returned to the cab, and we again started for home. The

only reference to his condition made by my friend was that he felt as

if he’d been in swimming, but he didn’t care, he rather enjoyed the

adventure.

At last we reached his door and gained access without further trouble,

he giving the cabby a big drink of whisky and I hope paying him well.

He then made some coffee on the gas-stove and after we had drunk it we

scurried to bed just as the clock struck four. Yet, in spite of that,

he was up at seven, got breakfast ready, and we caught the Manchester

train at about 8.30, none the worse, as far as I was concerned.

As a contrast to this, let me set off an amazing experience I had

in the brave West Country. I was booked to lecture at Plymouth on

a certain date, and as I was visiting a relative at Crewkerne some

days previously, I was taking my father down with me. A lady wrote to

me--and a most charming letter it was--offering the hospitality of her

house during my stay in Plymouth, but as I was to have my father’s

company I regretfully refused, telling her why. A few posts later a

letter arrived from her saying that her husband had been suddenly

ordered off to Egypt by his doctor and in consequence she would be

unable to receive me. But she placed her house and servants and

carriage at my disposal, begging me to bring my father and not only to

treat the place as if it were my own as regarded us two, but to give

entertainment to as many friends as I liked. Indeed she stipulated that

I should give at least one dinner-party!

Well, what could I say to such a princely offer as this? Only accept it

gratefully, and in due course father and I arrived at the Great Western

Station to find a beautiful carriage and pair awaiting us. We were

driven to a stately house on the Hoe and received by the housekeeper

with the assurance that in accordance with her instructions she would

spare no pains to keep us comfortable. Nor did she. Never can I forget

the splendour of that dinner-party, all the guests being friends of my

hostess, or the agony of my father who having against my advice loaded

up with sandwiches and cake at the five o’clock tea was unable to touch

a slice of the noble turkey he carved so well at the head of the table.

I need hardly say that our stay of two days there was all too brief for

me, but business called me away, and I had to go. But now that I feel

elated when I have eaten one egg and two small slices of toast for my

breakfast, I often think of that board spread for us two the morning

we left. A noble uncut ham, an untouched glazed tongue, cooked on the

premises, and innocent of any tin or glass, half a dozen eggs, a huge

brawn, a great jar of Devonshire cream--it was a banquet for a boarding

school, and the sight of it almost satisfied our healthy hunger. That

was an episode to be remembered, yea, to carry with me, as Kipling

says, “to the hungry grave.”

It has often given me much food for wondering thought, this practice of

hospitality which is carried to a length of which I had never before

dreamed. For instance, I have known of quite fierce competition between

two families for the honour (?) of putting me up for one night only,

and in some cases the matter has only been settled by my consenting to

dine in one house and sleep in another. It was always my practice on

revisiting a place to stay with the same hosts, if it were convenient

for them to have me; indeed, I always had a standing invitation to

do so, but on several occasions I have received letters from other

parties, informing me that they had been in negotiation with my former

hosts, and had succeeded in inducing them to allow the writers to

entertain me this time! And, do what I would, the thought would assert

itself, How pleasant it is to be thus sought after, but why? I have

never found any definite answer.

But several times I have heard rumours to the effect that some lions

are not at all easy to cater for. Apropos of that, I remember reading

in an American skit upon William Elbert Hubbard, the eccentric genius

who founded the Roycroft Brotherhood of Aurora, New York, that upon

being offered a sandwich by his trembling hostess, he threw back his

mane and said loftily, “It is ten dollars extra if I eat.”

Then, without another word, he stalked from the room, and presently

there was heard a crash, he had flung a chambermaid downstairs. Humbly

asked why, he replied in effect, “It is my humour; let no one question

me.” Now this is obviously only a caricature, yet I have heard tales

which I could not refuse to credit of public men retiring to bed after

luncheon with a bottle of whisky; this in a temperance family too! And

of a man who is an exceedingly prominent Nonconformist minister who

treated his host and hostess with far less courtesy than was due to

any hotel-keeper, refusing to eat with them or associate with anybody

during his stay, save his secretary, who was accommodated in the same

house.

It hardly seems credible that such practices should, not to say endear

a man to his hosts, but admit of his being ever entertained again,

yet so strangely are people constituted, that behaviour of that kind

is condoned and excused as being the hall-mark of genius. On the same

principle I suppose as the being possessed of the poetical faculty is

held by some to excuse a man from behaving with either cleanliness,

decency, sobriety or honesty. Perhaps then it was because I always felt

grateful to my hosts and endeavoured to give them as little trouble as

possible, while making myself as agreeable as I knew how to be, that I

have so many happy recollections of hospitality received.

Once, indeed, my host failed me through no fault of his own, I am sure,

although the letter he wrote telling me of his sudden forced departure

for London did not reach me until some time after the trouble. The

lecture was at Abergwynfi, South Wales, and I arrived there in the

gloom of a winter evening, amid a drizzling rain. A less inviting

place I have never seen, for the station seemed to end in a black wall

of rock, and nothing could be seen around but the grimy cañon along

which we had come. Enquiry at the station whether anyone was waiting

for anybody only elicited a stare and a curt “no.” Further enquiries

presently as to whether I could find a hotel and where, brought the

stationmaster, who told me of two, and directed me to them.

So I climbed the steep, muddy stairs into the black, foul road, and

after a tiring drag, with my heavy bag, of a few hundred yards, I

reached a public-house, crammed with drunken miners, who were making

a tremendous noise. This surprised me, for I had always thought of

the Welsh miner as a quiet man, except in religious fervour, and

certainly given to temperance. However, I pushed through the reeking

crowd, and enquired at the bar if I could have a room. No! they had no

rooms to let, used to have two, but there was no call for them now.

Disheartened, I begged the landlord to let me know where the nearest

place was that I could get a room, and he directed me still farther

up that hopeless thoroughfare to another place, where they _did_ have

rooms.

I trudged up there, very wearily, noting as I went the fine Workmen’s

Institute, where I was to lecture, because of the posters displayed

outside and bearing my name. Alas, when I reached the hostelry, which

was even more dreary and deplorable looking than the first, but had

not so many drunken men in it, I was told that their two spare beds

were occupied by two young women with the smallpox, a daughter of the

landlord’s and a sewing-maid. Of course I lost no time in retreating,

and being thus driven, took refuge in the Institute, where I was

received by the caretaker with open arms.

I felt at once as if I had accidentally touched the right spring, for

my new friend summoned a myrmidon from below, giving him some orders in

fluent Welsh, which resulted in the appearance in a very few minutes of

a robust man whom I took to be a superior workman or foreman of sorts,

but who could not do enough for me. He took me to his home, apologising

volubly all the way, and in a very short time his good wife had loaded

the little kitchen table with tea, toast, cake, jam and sardines, to

all of which I did as much justice, I hope, as was reasonable.

At my suggestion of changing into dress clothes he turned a puzzled,

appealing look upon his wife, and a brief colloquy in Welsh passed

between them. Then he said that he hoped I would not trouble to change,

for as it was the first time they had ventured upon a lecture or

address in English, nobody would expect it. And would I please come

along to the Institute and meet the committee? I rose with alacrity,

and together we marched up the muddy street towards that building.

The strains of a brass band in the distance saluting my ears, I made

some trivial remark about it, to which he replied:

“Oh, yes. I quite forgot to ask you, do you mind the band playing for

a few minutes before you begin--by way of introduction like? You see,

they’ve offered, and they’re very keen--they do it all for love, and we

don’t like to discourage them.”

Well, what could I do but acquiesce with as much appearance of

heartiness as I could muster, though I did begin to wonder whither this

affair was tending. But we now met the committee, all working men, who

greeted me with enthusiasm, and did their best to make me feel welcome,

although the English that some of them spoke was quaint; and we chatted

on until that band played itself in and stopped all conversation. The

leader ranged his merry men on the stage behind the sheet, and as the

clock struck eight the band burst into a triumphal march. Merciful

powers, may I never have such an experience again! Every executant,

especially big drum, was determined that his instrument should be

heard, no matter what happened, and there were thirty of them! I felt

as if the drums of my ears would burst, but feared to offend by going

out.

Still, I hoped that the uproar would be brief, indeed, I had been told

of ten minutes as the limit. Alas, no! Though their faces were crimson

and streamed with sweat, they felt no fatigue, and they clashed, blared

and banged on until a quarter to nine, forty-five minutes. There was a

hubbub of Welsh congratulations, after which I bowed to the leader of

the band (his instrument was the bombardon), and said without emphasis,

“Thank you so much.” Then I went before the sheet, there being no

chairman.

The hall was packed, 600 I should think being present, and of them at

least 590 were miners. Not a sound was heard, every face was filled

with blank amazement. Not being used to such a reception, I was a bit

daunted, but plunged in and talked my best for an hour and a quarter.

Still not a sound nor a movement, until one of the committee went

before the screen and said something in Welsh, upon which the hall

emptied, noisily, it is true, but in most orderly fashion. On joining

the committee I expressed a fear that I had not pleased my audience,

but my host of teatime hastened to assure me that my efforts were

beyond praise.

“Only,” he said, “you must remember that very few of the chaps

understand English!”

And then, indeed, I was filled with admiration for their good

behaviour. To sit and listen to unintelligible explanations of pictures

representing something they had never even dreamed of before,--sit for

seventy-five minutes and make no protest, then go out in such orderly

fashion,--well, it spoke volumes for their characters in the direction

of self-restraint.

“Now, sir,” broke in my kind guardian again, “if you will come along

with us to Blaengwynfi, we have found you a hotel there. This village

has no public accommodation at all.”

Of course I signified my delighted acquiescence. What else could I do?

But I hoped it was not very far, and I was at once assured that it

was less than a mile. So we strolled, about eight of us, my bag being

carried by one of the party, and soon arrived at the hotel, where I

was solicitously attended to in the matter of food, and given quite

a decent room. My meal over, I was invited to join my committee, who

were evidently out for the evening. Well, what a gay crowd it was, to

be sure. They sang and they drank and they smoked--the eleven o’clock

rule having been suspended for their benefit apparently, until at about

midnight I begged off, and retired to my bedroom. But as it was next

to the room in which were the revellers, it was long before I got to

sleep, though I have no idea when the merry party broke up.

Next day, however, I found that my bill had been paid, and that

everybody was delighted with my behaviour and with the evening

generally. Also I found a good train from a station almost opposite to

the hotel, and passed away from the district never to visit it again,

but to bear it in memory all my life.

Recollections The Reminiscences of the Busy Life of One Who Has Played the Varied Parts of Sailor, Author & Lecturer · 第 8 / 20 章