CHAPTER VIII.--MEN, MENUS, AND MANNERS.

_A humble suggestion--The reviewer from Texas--His treatment of the

story of Joseph and his Brethren--A few flare-up headings--The

Swiss pastor--Some musical critics--“Il Don Giovanni”--A subtle

point--Newspaper suppers--Another suggestion--The bitter cry of the

journalist--The plurality of porridge--An object lesson superior to

grammatical rules--The bloater as a supper dish--Scarcely an unequivocal

success._

I HOPE I may not be going too far when I express the hope in this place

that any critic who finds out that some of my jottings are ancient will

do me the favour to state where the originals are to be found. I have

sufficient curiosity to wish to see how far the jottings deviate from

the originals.

In the preparation of stories for the Press it is, I feel more impressed

every day, absolutely necessary to bear in mind the authentic case of

the young sailor’s mother who abused him for telling her so palpably

impossible a yarn about his having seen fish rise from the water and fly

along like birds, but who was quite ready to accept his account of the

crimson expanse of the Red Sea. Some of the most interesting incidents

that have actually come under my notice could not possibly be published

if accuracy were strictly observed as to the details. They are “owre

true” to obtain credence..

In this category, however, I do not include the story about the

gentleman from Texas who, after trying various employments in Boston to

gain a dishonest livelihood, represented himself at a newspaper office

as a journalist, and only asked for a trial job. The editor, believing

he saw an excellent way of getting rid of a parcel of books that had

come for review, flung him the lot and told him to write three-quarters

of a column of flare-up head-lines, and a quarter of reviews, and maybe

some fool might be attracted to the book column. Now, at the top of the

batch there chanced to be the first instalment of a new Polyglot Bible,

after the plan so successfully adopted by Messrs. Bagster, about to

be issued in parts, and the reviewer failed to recognise the Book of

Genesis, which he accordingly read for fetching head-lines. The result

of his labours by some oversight appeared in the next issue of the

paper, and attracted a considerable amount of interest in religious

circles in Boston.

[Illustration: 0136]

The remaining quarter of a column was occupied by a circumstantial

and highly colloquial account of the incidents recorded in the Book of

Genesis, and it very plainly suggested that the work had been published

by Messrs. Hoskins as a satire upon the success of the Hebrew race in

the New England States. The reviewer even made an attempt to identify

Joseph with a prominent Republican politician, and Potiphar’s wife with

the Democratic party, who were alleged to be making overtures to the

same gentleman.

But I really did once meet with a sub-editor who had reviewed “The Swiss

Family Robinson” as a new work. He commenced by telling the readers

of the newspaper that the book was a wholesome story of a worthy Swiss

pastor, and so forth.

I also knew a musical critic who, on being entrusted with the duty of

writing a notice of _Il Don Giovanni_, as performed by the Carl Rosa

Company, began as follows: “Don Giovanni, the gentleman from whom the

opera takes its name, was a licentious Spanish nobleman of the past

century.” The notice gave some account of the _affaires_ of this

newly-discovered reprobate, glossing over the Zerlina business rather

more than Mozart thought necessary to do, but being very bitter against

Leporello, “his valet and confidant,” and finally expressing the opinion

somewhat dogmatically that “few of the public would be disposed to say

that the fate which overtook this callous scoundrel was not well earned

by his persistence in a course of unjustifiable vice. The music is

tuneful and was much encored.”

Upon the occasion of this particular representation I recollect that I

wrote, “An Italian version of a Spanish story, set to music by a German,

conducted by a Frenchman, and interpreted by a Belgian, a Swiss, an

Irishman and a Canadian--this is what is meant by English Opera.”

My notice gave great offence; but the other was considered excellent.

The moral tone that pervaded it was most praiseworthy, the people said.

And so it was.

I have got about five hundred musical jottings which, if provoked, I

may one day publish; but, meantime, I cannot refrain from giving one

illustration of the way in which musical notices were managed long ago.

Madame Adelina Patti had made her first (and farewell) appearance in the

town where I was located. I was engaged about two o’clock in the morning

putting what I considered to be the finishing touches to the column

which I had written about the diva’s concert, when the reporter of the

leading paper burst into the room in which I was writing. He was in

rather a dishevelled condition, and he approached me and whispered that

he wanted to ask me a question outside--there were others in the room. I

went through the door with him and inquired what I could do for him.

“I was marked for that blessed concert, and I went too, and now I’m

writing the notice,” said he. “But what I want to know is this--_Is

Patti a soprano or a contralto?_”

*****

I have just now discovered that it would be unwise for me to continue

very much farther these reminiscences of editors and sub-editors, the

fact being that I have some jottings about every one of the race whom

I have ever met, and when one gets into a desultory vein of anecdotage

like that in which I now find myself for the first time in my life,

one is liable to exhaust a reader’s forbearance before one’s legitimate

subject has become exhausted. I think it may be prudent to make a

diversion at this period from the sub-editors of the past to the suppers

of the newspaper office. Gastronomy as a science is not drawn out to its

finest point within these precincts. There is still something left to be

desired by such persons as are fastidious. I have for long thought that

it would be by no means extravagant to expect every newspaper office to

be supplied with a kitchen, properly furnished, and with the “good plain

cook,” who so constantly figures in the columns (advertising), at hand

to turn out the suppers for all departments engaged in the production of

the paper.

It is inconvenient for an editor to be compelled to cook his own supper

at his gas stove, while the flimsies of the speech upon which he is

writing are being laid on his desk by the sub-editor, and the foreman’s

messenger is asking for them almost before they have ceased to flutter

in the cooling draught created by opening the door. Equally inconvenient

is it for the sub-editor and the reporters to get something to prevent

them from succumbing to starvation. The compositors in some offices

have lately instituted a rule by which they “knock off” for supper at

half-past ten; but what sort of a meal do they get to sustain them until

four in the morning? I have no hesitation in pronouncing it to be almost

as indifferent as that upon which the editor is forced to subsist for,

perhaps, the same period. I have seen the compositors--some of them

earning £5 a week--crouching under their cases, munching hunches

(the onomatopæia is Homeric) of bread, while their cans of tea--that

abomination of cold tea warmed up--were stewing over their gas burners.

In the sub-editors’ room, and the reporters’ room, tea was also being

cooked, or bottles of stout drunk, the accompanying, comestibles being

bread or biscuits. After swallowing tea that has been stewing on its

leaves for half-an-hour, and eating a slab of office bread out of one

hand while the other holds the pen, the editor writes an article on

the grievances of shopmen who are only allowed an hour for dinner and

half-an-hour for tea; or, upon the slavery of a barmaid; or, perhaps,

composes a nice chatty half-column on the progress of dyspepsia and the

necessity for attending carefully to one’s diet.

Now, I affirm that no newspaper office should be without a kitchen. The

compositors should be given a chance of obtaining all the comforts of

home at a lesser cost than they could be provided at home; and later on

in the night the reporters, sub-editors, and editor should be able to

send up messages as to the hour they mean to take supper, and the dish

which they would like to have. Here is an opportunity for the Institute

of Journalists. Let them take sweet counsel together on the great

kitchen question, and pass a resolution “that in the opinion of the

Institute a kitchen in complete working order should form part of every

morning newspaper office; and that a cook, holding a certificate from

South Kensington, or, better still, Mrs. Marshall, should be regarded as

essential to the working staff as the editor.”

I do not say that a box of Partagas, or Carolinas, should be provided

by the management for every room occupied by the literary staff; though

undoubtedly a move in the right direction, yet I fear that public

feeling has not yet been sufficiently aroused by the bitter cry of the

journalist, to make the cigar-box and the club chair probable; but I do

say that since journalism has become a profession, those who practise it

should be treated as if they were as deserving of consideration as the

salesmen in drapers’ shops. Surely, as we have sent the bitter cry into

all the ends of the earth on behalf of others, we might be permitted the

luxury of a little bitter cry on our own account.

*****

This brings me down to the recollections I retain of the strange ideas

that some of the staff of journals with which I have been connected,

possessed as to the most appropriate menu for supper. One of these

gentlemen, for instance, was accustomed to make oatmeal porridge in a

saucepan for himself about two o’clock in the morning. When accused of

being a Scotchman, he indignantly denied that he was one. He admitted,

however, that he was an Ulsterman, and this was considered even worse

by his accusers. He invariably alluded to the porridge in the plural,

calling it “them.” I asked him one night why the thing was entitled to

a plural, and he said it was because no one but a blue-pencilled fool

would allude to it as otherwise. I had the curiosity to inquire farther

how much porridge was necessary to be in the saucepan before it became

entitled to a plural; if, for instance, there was only a spoonful,

surely it would be rather absurd to still speak of it as “them.” He

replied, after some thought, that though he had never considered the

matter in all its bearings, yet his impression was that even a spoonful

was entitled to a plural.

“Did you ever hear any one allude to brose as ‘it’?” he asked.

I admitted that I never had.

“Then if you call brose ‘them,’ why shouldn’t you call stirabout

‘them’?” he asked, triumphantly.

“I must confess that I never had the matter brought so forcibly before

me,” said I.

As he was going to “sup them,” as he termed the operation of ladling the

contents of the saucepan into his mouth, I hastily left the room. I have

eaten tiffin within easy reach of a dozen lepers on Robben Island in

Table Bay, I have taken a hearty supper in a tent through which a camel

every now and again thrust its nose, I have enjoyed a biltong sandwich

on the seat of an African bullock waggon with a Kaffir beside me, I have

even eaten a sausage snatched by the proprietor from the seething panful

in the window of a shop in the Euston Road--I did so to celebrate the

success of a play of mine at the Grand Theatre--but I could not remain

in the room while that literary gentleman partook of that simple supper

of his.

On my return when he had finished I never failed to allow in the most

cordial way the right of the preparation to a plural. It was to be

found in every part of the room; the table, the chairs, the floor, the

fireplace, the walls, the ceiling--all bore token to the fact that it

was not one but many.

In the hands of a true Ulsterman stirabout “are” a terrible weapon.

As a mural decorative medium “they” leave much to be desired.

*****

Only one man connected with the Press did

I ever know addicted to the bloater as a supper dish. The man came among

us like a shadow and disappeared as such, after a week of incompetence;

but he left a memory behind him that not all the perfumes of Arabia can

neutralise. It was about one o’clock in the morning--he had come on duty

that night--that there floated through the newspaper office a dense blue

smoke and a smell--such a smell! It was of about the same density as

an ironclad. One felt oneself struggling through it as though it were a

mass of chilled steel plates, backed with soft iron. On the upper floor

we were built in by it, so to speak. It arose on every side of us like

the wall of a prison, and we kept groping around it for a hole large

enough to allow of our crawling through. Two of us, after battering at

that smell for a quarter of an hour, at last discovered a narrow passage

in it made by a current of air from an open window, and having squeezed

ourselves through, we ran downstairs to the sub-editors’ room.

Through the crawling blue smoke we could just make out the figure of

a man standing in his shirt sleeves in front of the fire using a large

two-pronged iron fork as a toothpick. On a plate on the table lay the

dislocated backbone of a red herring (_harengus rufus_).

The man was perfectly self-possessed. We questioned him closely about

the origin of the smoke and the smell, and he replied that, without

going so far as to pronounce a dogmatic opinion on the subject, and

while he was quite ready to accept any reasonable suggestion on

the matter from either of us, he, for his part, would not be at all

surprised if it were found on investigation that both smoke and smell

were due to his having openly cooked a rather bloated specimen of the

Yarmouth bloater. He always had one for his supper, he said; critically,

when not too pungent--he disliked them too pungent--he considered that

a full-grown bloater, well preserved for its years and considering the

knocking about that it must have had, was fully equal to a beefsteak.

There was much more practical eating in it, he should say, speaking as

man to man. And it was so very simple--that was its great charm.

For himself, he never could bear made-up dishes; they were, he thought,

usually rich, and he had a poor-enough digestion, so that he could not

afford to trifle with it.

Just then the foreman loomed through the dense smoke, and, being

confronted with the hydra-headed smell, he boldly grappled with it, and

after a fierce contest, he succeeded in strangling one of the heads and

then set his foot on it. He hurriedly explained to the subeditor that

all the hands who had lifted the copy that had been sent out were

setting it up with bowls of water beside them to save themselves the

trouble of going to the water-tap for a drink.

The next day the clerks in the mercantile department were working with

bottles of carbolic under their noses, and every now and again a note

would be brought in from a subscriber ordering his paper to be stopped

until a new consignment of printers’ ink should arrive, in which the

chief ingredient was not so pungent.

At the end of a week the sub-editor was given a month’s salary and an

excellent testimonial, and was dismissed. The proprietor of the journal

had the sub-editors’ room freshly painted and papered, and made the

assistant-editor a present of two pounds to buy a new coat to replace

the one which, having hung in the room for an entire night, had to be

burnt, no cleaner being found who would accept the risk of purifying it.

The cleaners all said that they would not run the chance of having all

the contents of their vats left on their hands. They weren’t as a rule

squeamish in the matter of smells; they only drew the line at creosote,

and the coat was a long way on the other side.

Seven years have passed since that sub-editor partook of that simple

supper, and yet I hear that every night drag-hounds howl at the door of

the room, and strangers on entering sniff, saying,--

“Whew! there’s a barrel of red herrings somewhere about.”

A Journalist's Note-Book · 第 8 / 21 章