CHAPTER XX.

DIVES AND LAZARUS.

There is probably no other country where the gulf between the rich and

poor is so wide. Six thousand people own all the land in Mexico, and

eleven million people have to live upon terms made directly or

indirectly by those six thousand. The same six thousand are also the

governing class, and make all laws to favor their own interest. For

instance, all the land of the rich is exempt from taxation, and this

compels the poor laborer to pay the tax for the support of the

government. It is hard for a man to acquire land here, as the holders

will not sell, and the laws against foreigners are very strict. Mexico

has never forgotten 1848, when California, Arizona and New Mexico were

seized by the United States, and she now sees to it that Americans get

no more. Thus, no American, without consent of the president, can

acquire land within twenty leagues of the border. This precaution is

based upon the experience of Texas. Mexicans allowed the Americans to

settle in Texas, and so soon as they felt strong enough they struck out

for independence and got it. If Americans were allowed to buy along the

Rio Grande, it would be but a few years till the Rio Grande country

would declare independence and join Texas, just as Texas joined the

union.

The rich have also made a law that a man may become a slave for debt,

and the property of the creditor. As a legal enactment the law has been

repealed, but as a matter of fact, the law is as operative today as it

ever was, and this class of slave labor is known as peons. The peon may

owe the creditor a hundred dollars. He is paid such low wages he never

cancels his debt, but continues till it is doubled. Should he become

dissatisfied with his master, he can get some one else to buy him by

paying the debt, and he thus becomes the slave of the second, but this

is always done legally. The original owner must write out a statement of

the amount of debt, and allow the peon three days for each hundred

dollars to seek a new master. Once in debt, always in debt, so the poor

peon is never free, and his wife is included in his contract, and the

haciendas will have no other kind of labor. The Mexican by nature is

averse to work, and where land is so fertile and fruit is so plenty, it

is hard to get a free Mexican to work, and harder to hold him. The peon,

on the other hand, has both a moral and legal compulsion to work, and

the fear of the law compels him to work every day but Sundays and feast

days. So this is the kind of labor the haciendados seek.

In opening a new plantation, instead of hiring men, the owner spends six

or eight thousand dollars in buying peons from other farms, before his

new place has earned him a dollar. When he becomes the property of his

new master, a contract must be made as to time and wages. The peon

agrees to work on all days except feast days, and to receive in wages

two dollars and a half a month, plus a ration of corn, beans and salt,

or four dollars a month without rations. The rations consist of six

almuds (6½ quarts each) of corn, half an almud of frijoles (beans) and

one pound of salt. If a peon refuses to pay his debts in money or work,

the law places him in close confinement. Life on these haciendas is

peculiar to itself. The buildings are in the form of a huge rectangle

surrounded by high walls and entered by massive gates which are closed

at night. The walls are mounted by towers and pierced by loop-holes for

muskets, and generally surrounded by a moat. All these precautions have

been necessary in a land infested by bandits and subject to the annual

raids of the revolutionists who could get horses and supplies to furnish

a regiment.

The hacienda of Jaral once controlled 20,000 peons and furnished a full

regiment for the Spanish army in the war of independence. Within this

enclosure on one side is the residence of the bosses, as the owners

nearly all live in Europe. On the other sides, in adobe huts with dirt

floors, live the peons with their families and dogs, while in the center

or in a separate enclosure are the animals. It reminds one of the feudal

days to hear the signal bell rung and see the hundreds of people

hurrying to the hacienda and closing the ponderous gates and preparing

for a siege. Revolutions and bandits are not as frequent now as

formerly, but the haciendas have no faith in Utopia, so they still build

in accordance with past experience. The universal work animal is the ox,

and he is worked just as he was on the Nile four thousand years ago.

The plow is a sharp stick with an iron point that does not turn the soil

but only opens a furrow. The beam is fastened to the yoke, and the yoke

is fastened to the animal’s horns by means of raw-hide thongs, the

universal hammer and nails of the country. The people mend, repair and

make everything by means of raw-hide. The plowman holds the single

handle with his left hand, and in his right he carries a goad with a

steel point on the end with which he persuades his team. The driver

never speaks to his team, but if he wants the team to go to the left he

silently prods the right hand ox, and vice versa. The cruel method of

fastening the yoke to the horns compels the oxen to pull by their necks

instead of by their shoulders, and with a heavy two-wheeled cart loaded

with a ton of stone, their necks soon become so stiff they cannot bend

them, and cannot graze nor drink water unless they stand in it leg deep.

Innovations? O no, the Mexican wants no innovation. An enterprising

Yankee shipped some plows down, and the natives sawed off one handle of

every one. He had always plowed with one handle and always will. In

making excavations for building, no wheel-barrow is seen. A piece of

raw-hide stretched between two poles and carried by two men is the only

wheel-barrow they will ever use. The only ladder in the country is an

upright pole with cross-pieces tied on by ropes. To saw lumber a pit is

dug and the log laid across the top, then with one man in the pit and

one on the log, it is sawed into lumber. For wagons they use only

two-wheel carts, and in loading, sometimes three or four hundred pounds

will overbalance on the forward side and crush the mule to the ground,

but with whip and lash he is made to get up and move.

I have seen these two-wheel carts come from the mines loaded with over

two tons of silver, and drawn by eight mules, and only one mule in the

shafts, and his back would be bent into the segment of a circle and his

legs spread like a cotton toy.

To thresh their grain, it is spread in the yard and the oxen and donkeys

are driven over it two or three days to tramp it out, just as they did

in Egypt in Pharaoh’s time. After ten yoke of oxen had tramped over the

wheat for two days, I fear there are fastidious people who would refuse

to eat it, but we can get accustomed to many things when we have to.

Even the green scum on the stagnant water of the canal makes a fine dish

when you cannot do any better.

There came a Yankee to this country once who saw a Mexican threshing

machine, which consisted of about thirty sheep, goats and burros, that

were wading knee-deep in grain and threshing it out; so when he got

home, he sent that farmer a Yankee threshing machine almost as a

present, and it was put to work. The grain was threshed clean and it

performed the work of a dozen men and twice that number of animals, and

seemed a great success, but it got bruited to the priests. They came and

saw the machine and stood in amazement. From their standpoint it was too

great an innovation, and what might it not lead to? They declared that

the devil was in the machine, and positively forbade the peons to use

it! The threats and warnings frightened the poor ignorant peons out of

their wits, and that machine was sent back across the Rio Grande.

When railroads were first introduced, the priests had the tracks torn

up, and for a long time the rubber hose of the air-brake was continually

cut open, because it was said to be the work of the devil. Wise priests

they are in Mexico. Well do they know that where intelligence and

invention find their way among those Indians, the power of the

priesthood is gone, so it is not a matter of ignorance with them. They

are well-educated--too well to permit innovations that will lessen their

influence and shekels. I have met these priests outside of their

official capacity, and found that many of them were educated in Europe

and America and were well posted in the affairs of today, all of which

proves that their teaching what they know to be false is the most

transparent humbug.

The tools and manner of working is shiftless to the last degree. I have

seen plantations planted in corn, and it was done by men digging holes

with short handled grubbing-hoes, in which to plant, and when it was

large enough to cultivate, take a short paddle or a board, and on their

knees rake the dirt to each stalk.

The corn has been inbred until it is of the most stunted growth, when a

few bushels of Texas corn would give new life to it. It is a rare thing

to see a stalk on the plateau over five feet high, while the conditions

of the soil ought to produce a height of twelve feet. For irrigation

they still use the old well-sweep, a long pole balanced in a fork, and

as the weighted end goes down, the laden bucket rises at the other, and

all day the laborer draws this water to slake his thirsty field. A

suction pump would do the work of six men, but I have not seen such an

innovation as a pump in all this land. In making a cart the native will

take his ax and hew him out one complete, and there will be no particle

of iron about it.

With the woman, life is a continual tread-mill until she dies. From

girlhood to old age her business is grinding corn, and it takes her

entire time. In the entire country I have seen no other corn mill. The

usual method is to put the corn to soak in lime water to soften the

grains, and then they are laid upon a stone a dozen at a time and

crushed by another stone roller made exactly like our kitchen rolling

pins; and when it comes to grinding corn for a large family, a dozen

grains at a time, it means a day’s work. In large cities of over a

hundred thousand population, the public mill is the same. I visited a

number where meal was ground for sale, and on the floor were thirty or

forty women down on their knees grinding corn; the metata, or nether

stone is held against the stomach like a washboard, and the rolling-pin

stone is worked up and down to crush the corn, but always she is on her

knees. This constant labor gives the peon woman a stolid look of

resignation that never departs from her features. For use, the grated

meal is dampened and made into thin cakes the size and thickness of a

saucer, and cooked by placing on a hot stone or piece of sheet-iron.

Neither knives, forks, dishes or spoons enter into their household

equipment. The tortilla is about the color and toughness of leather,

and is baked and stacked away for future use. The frijoles are cooked in

a small burnt clay vessel, then poured into or upon a frijola, which is

then rolled into a cylinder and eaten. If by good fortune they have

anything else to eat, the tortilla is used as a plate for this dainty

and then the plate is eaten. Their adobe houses have dirt floors and no

windows or chimneys. They never use fire except for cooking and that is

done on the outside. Within are neither bed, table nor chairs. Sometimes

there is a straw mat for a bed, and they sleep in the clothes they have

worn all day, the men rolling in their zerapes and the women in rebosas.

Shame and modesty in the usual amenities of life are entirely absent,

and no privacy whatever is sought or needed. The men dress in white

cotton and wear sandals on their feet, and each man is his own

shoemaker. The women wear, often, simply a coarse chemise or at most a

short petticoat reaching to the bare knees. Sometimes they wear coarse

shoes, but never stockings. Their faces have a perpetual look of

sadness. They are slaves for debt, and have nothing else in life to hope

for. Marriage laws are almost unknown. They have not the money to secure

a legal marriage, so the formality is dispensed with. In some of the

largest cities in the country you may take a seat in a public park, and

when no policeman is near some cadaverous looking woman will approach

leading a daughter, and will offer to sell her for two or three

dollars--to such stress are they driven by their condition.

Do not think for a moment that all this suffering and depravity will

awaken sympathy from the rich. The rich are Spaniards, and being such,

have neither sympathy nor charity for Mexicans and Indians. In trading

with these poor people I have purposely paid them more than the price

asked, when some Spaniard, thinking I had been cheated, would rush up

and abuse the seller and attempt to restore my money.

Caste distinctions are drawn as tight as steel wires, and a peon would

no more resent an insult from a Spaniard than if he were a superior

being. They are fatalists, and accept their lot as their portion. Before

the law they are all equal, but if the aristocracy should appropriate a

particular park or street or sidewalk, the rabble would cower and huddle

near the edge but would no more trespass than if it were an enchanted

spot. The laws are made by the aristocracy, and in a lawsuit for damages

the poor would have no show at all, and in most cases the _leges non

scriptæ_ are more powerful than the written. By common consent (of the

aristocracy) the people have divided themselves into classes and they

never transgress their acknowledged boundaries. No peon would think of

asking a well-dressed gentleman for a cigarette light, and said

gentleman would not use said peon for a door-mat.

The most remarkable feature is the zeal with which the police enforce

caste rules. The railroads and street-cars are all divided into classes

and the police are always present to see that the _pilagua_ or poor

class always go third-class. Even should one have a first-class ticket,

the policeman would promptly eject him. At the bull-ring or theater the

police assort them by their clothes, and I have yet to hear of a protest

by the ejected. In the alamedas and promenades, if the aristocracy

appropriate the inner circle next the band stand, the people immediately

fall back to the outer circle, and a string of police will see that they

stay there. But to all Americans, however dressed, barriers fall away

like cobwebs, and with a tip of the hat the official bids you “_Passe

señor_.” Ordinary servants are chosen from the great middle class, and

employers require such exact obedience and homage that no servant of the

United States would remain a day. No matter how often a servant is

called, she must always answer with some deprecating remark denoting her

position, such as: “Yes, your humble servant,” or “At your service,

Señora,” and this formula must never be omitted. In nine cases out of

ten no beds are furnished servants, and I have seen men and women spread

themselves over the bare floor night after night and sleep in the same

clothing they wore all day. For this faithful service women get five

dollars a month, in a country where the cheapest cotton cloth is

thirteen cents a yard. But Mexican servants are the best in the world.

They know nothing of the comforts of life as we know them, so they do

not grumble at their lot. Obedience and hardship are their inheritance,

and like the caged bird that has never known freedom, they never chafe.

It is this submission that makes the priesthood anxious to keep American

innovation out; but let intelligence be once awakened to superior

conditions, and automatic obedience to church and master will suffer a

compound fracture.

The life of the great middle class woman is the happiest of the lot. Not

being ground by poverty nor bound by the laws of aristocratic society,

she enjoys life. The blue blood deserves our greatest sympathy. She must

never appear without _duenna_ or escort. If she engage in any occupation

whereby she earns money or is drawn from her seclusiveness, she

immediately loses caste. An educated lady may do missionary work or

perform in music for some _funcion_; very well, but if it be known that

she received pay for so doing, it would mean her Waterloo. In

consequence most such places in the country are filled by foreigners who

have no such restrictions to face. Sometimes gentility frazzels out to a

very name with no income, and then the poor lady is in the strait

whether she shall go hungry or lose caste, so she works by stealth. To

the public she gives music lessons or art lessons for the love of it but

on the quiet she collects tuition, and thus is able to live and still

hold her own with the four hundred.

A Mexican lady has her world in two hemispheres, the church and the

home. When she is not in one she is in the other. They neither visit nor

receive calls. A Mexican’s home is for himself and he does not invite

his dearest friends to it. This is not indicative of selfishness but the

custom. If you want to see anyone you never go to their home, but to the

plaza at eight when the band begins to play, and see your friends. That

is what the band is for, to play while you visit. And so her life is

spent. In her home all day peeping through iron bars, and on Sunday

going to the bull fight, and three evenings a week going to the plaza to

chat. Her home is furnished with elegance, but she has a peculiar

custom. If her best room will hold forty chairs, then forty will be

there. In nearly every home I have seen the walls held as many chairs as

would set around the four sides, but their use was never revealed to me.

Great is custom.

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Land without chimneys; or, the byways of Mexico · 第 20 / 25 章