West to Clanwilliam--Mr. Shaw--Productions of
farm--Back to the Cape--Open an hotel--Pleasures of
Cape life--Ships put in for Australia--Imports--Market
day--Arrangements--Waggons--Fish--Lobsters--Off to Port
Elizabeth--Whale fishing--Sea elephants--Manner of killing--The
Penguin--Habits of the bird--Back to the Cape--English Church
at Newlands--The Bay--Wreck of a Baltimore vessel--Loss
of two children, captain's wife, and the mate--Habits of
Hottentots--Manner of living--A marriage--A present and
its return--Loss in business by partner absconding--Leave
the Cape--East India docks--Buckinghamshire--Relatives at
home--Station master--Accident detailed--Near Rugby--Exonerated and
promoted--Liverpool--Brighton--To Canada--Farewell address.
I now left the East, after mature consideration, and went west to
Clanwilliam, where I found Mr. Shaw, who has before been introduced
in these pages. He had been engaged in the war, having three hundred
Hottentots under him. He was a magistrate, lived in a fine brick
house, had ten thousand acres of land, was a bachelor, and a jolly
good fellow at that. On being asked how he could live alone, his
answer immediately was, "Jolly times, jolly times." "I am monarch of
all I survey." Visitors were constant at his place from Cape Town on
shooting excursions, game being plentiful and choice on large farms.
Besides the raising of cattle, his farm produced fine oranges, wheat,
Indian corn, and grapes. Home-made wine and brandy were in abundance.
Stopping with him three weeks I started again for the Cape, stopping
at night in farm houses, where they gladly receive a visitor. Most of
the farms along to the Cape are wine farms, the soil mostly sandy,
and the weather being very hot, unfits it for grazing land. I found,
on arriving, that I had been reported as killed in the Mackazana
bush. Not having any fixed purpose as to my future movements, and
meeting here with a comrade officer who, like me, had nothing to do,
we, after duly weighing all matters, determined to erect and open an
hotel. At this time the Australian gold-fields were drawing largely
on the population of Europe, and as the Cape would be the coaling
and watering place for vessels on passage, we christened it "The
Australasian." Soon after opening the _Great Britain_ put into port,
with seven hundred passengers for Melbourne. Of these we secured one
hundred and seventy-six as boarders for the time being. Next along
came the _Sarah Sands_ from London, with three hundred, after her,
the _West Wind_ from New York, with six hundred. Of all these we had
a good share of boarders, giving them pleasure jaunts to the wine
farms of Constancia and the Pearl, and took them around the mountain
to see the beautiful scenery in this land of the myrtle and the vine.
[Sidenote: Imports--market day.]
There is a weekly market held on Wednesday at the Cape, at which
articles brought from Europe are sold. Wines and brandies from Spain
and Portugal; perfumes and silks from France; linens, calicoes, and
broadcloths, also, ready-made clothing from England. This market
commences at six in the morning. Farmers' waggons arrive during the
night before. Everything is sold after the Dutch fashion. Waggons
are arranged in line according to the article for sale. Grain, first
line of waggons; vegetables, second; and fruit of all kinds in the
third line. The Hottentot boys are the drivers of the yoke, having
for an ornament in their caps splendid ostrich feathers. Ostrich
eggs or feathers can be had from these boys for sixpence each; they
picking them up on the sand can afford to sell cheap. Fish at the
Cape is very plentiful and good, and easily caught by line. Lobsters,
by dozens, can be brought up by putting a piece of liver in a basket
weighted with stones, attached to a rope--lower, in five minutes pull
up. I have done this myself.
[Sidenote: The penguin--habits of the bird.]
Off Port Elizabeth a large business is done in whale oil. Taking a
trip in a boat belonging to a firm engaged in this business, named
Seawright, I saw the whole process of catching and extracting the
oil. The Bird Islands are in the Mosambique Channel, and here the sea
elephant, as it is called, is plentiful; the animal is amphibious.
The men go out at night when it is time for these animals to quit
the sea for the shore; when well up on the sand, they noiselessly
creep between them and the water, then they are attacked with clubs
and beaten to death; if he escapes to water again he carries with
him anything in his way, but only to secure a good ducking. Thirty
or forty will thus be killed in one night by eight or nine men;
the blubber is boiled down into oil, and sent to the Cape. These
animals are the size of a good land pig, with tusks like elephants--a
species of whale, though commonly called sea elephants. The Island
abounds with rabbits and goats, and a curious bird may be found here
called the "Penguin." They never use their wings, but march upright
in flocks like a company of soldiers. Seeing them at a distance, as
they are large, and having a red spot on the breast, they might be
taken for a company of soldiers. If, in walking, you meet with a
thousand they never get out of the way, you may do as you please, but
they only peck at you. I stayed at the Islands three days while the
ship was being freighted with oil, and on returning to the Cape I
mightily enjoyed the sail on the beautiful calm sea in this southern
hemisphere--the whale spouting, and the golden dolphin swimming
around the boat. As we neared the Cape, better known to me now, and
as it was after four in the afternoon, no one could be seen on the
streets, but many under the stoops of their houses, in the cool,
sleeping. All outdoor work is over at ten in the morning; after five
in the evening all is bustle and life again--ladies promenading
the Kesingraf, or ladies' walk. The road from the town leading to
Newlands through Rondebosch, is very pleasant--trees on both sides
for eight or nine miles. The clergyman of the English Church at
Newlands showed me a collection of animals he had for the then Lord
Derby, some fine specimens of eland, giraffe, and gazelle, the
smallest of the deer species; he had also a lion and a panther. The
heavy rolls from the Atlantic set in early in winter, and during the
season no vessels venture into the bay; if they got safely in there
they should remain until spring. The weather on land is very pleasant
during this time--much like an English autumn. In November, a bark
from Baltimore, in the States, bound to Bombay, came ashore on Robbin
Island a wreck; a number went off to assist the crew; on reaching
the rocks the captain and a number of sailors had got ashore--his
wife, two children, and the mate were missing. The captain was nearly
out of his mind through the loss, they were found the next day--two
beautiful girls--and I can never forget the man's looks as he saw
them laid out for burial. The wife was found under the keel of the
vessel, and the mate jammed between the casks of porter in the hold.
It was a melancholy funeral.
[Sidenote: Habits of Hottentots]
I will now revert to my travels in Kaffraria, to mention some things
interesting which I omitted then. In commencing, I may say that the
meaning of Kaffir is thief, by calling men of some tribes who know
this, they are very indignant. They generally have from three to
six wives, who do all the laborious work, even to building the hut
for herself, my lord going into which he pleases. They do all the
gardening, sow corn, plant pumpkins and other vegetables, milk cows
and cook, the boys helping, and are never allowed to eat with the
men; these latter attend to the cattle until eighteen, when they are
circumcised and allowed to sit with the warriors and hunt with them.
When he has arrived at the period of manhood to marry, he selects a
wife, the chief and councillors set a price on her according to her
charms, say, two cows or three heifers, and if he does not possess so
much he will steal from the nearest settler or from another tribe;
this occurring often is the cause of much war between the several
tribes. One day a fine young fellow named Magesa, a chief's son of
the Patos tribe, came to me, pulling a long face. He said he wanted
a girl of another tribe, but he had not her value, nor would his
father give him the cow and two heifers he required, as he wanted to
buy another wife for himself. This boy previously had done me a good
turn, and feeling for him, as well as to prevent him from stealing,
I got the required cattle which he accepted. He brought his bride
afterwards to thank me. I was surprised, however, when he made a
request for a row of beads to decorate her neck, and also for a plug
of tobacco with which to console himself. These I gave him, and in
return the high favour of kissing the newly married lady was imposed
upon me. Their clothing being very scant, and all procured by hunting
the deer, don't cost much, but their begging propensities are very
great, for a chief with four wives and five hundred head of cattle
would beg as this lad had done.
[Sidenote: Leave the Cape.]
There is very little emigration to the Cape, the reason is, capital
is required. Labour is so cheap, no white man will engage in it
for a living. Land can be purchased, worked to advantage, either
in grain, or stock-farming, and this requires means. The principal
export is merino wool. The native sheep are like goats, with hair.
They have extraordinary large tails, all fat. I have seen a tail as
large as the carcase.
In consequence of the loss of my wife and child by small-pox,
brought to the Cape in a slaver captured on the west coast, and the
defalcations of my partner in the hotel business, through which he
absconded to Australia with one thousand pounds of our money, I was
compelled to resign my business and return to England. A vessel on
her way from Calcutta, putting in for water, I took passage, and bid
good-bye to the Cape. The voyage was a rough one, we encountered many
storms, arriving safe at the East India Docks on 24th March, 1855,
after a voyage of ten weeks. I immediately left for Buckinghamshire,
where my family had removed during my absence, and found, to my
great sorrow, my poor mother had been dead just two months, her
last words were: "Oh, that I could but see my dear son before I
am called away." My father, feeling this affliction deeply, having
lived together some forty-six years, soon followed her, and I had
had that consolation of being present when he died, and laid him
beside my dear angel mother. After arranging some family matters at
our old home, I left for London, expecting to get a commission in
the Turkish contingent, from Lord Panmure. While waiting for this,
peace was proclaimed, and the troops ordered home from the Crimea.
Notwithstanding all the excitement caused by that war, my services
were not forgotten, though, perhaps, in the eyes of some, the famous
charge of the Six Hundred, had eclipsed Aliwal and Sobraon, still
I had a good friend in the Marquis of Chandos, who gave me the
appointment of station-master on the London and North-Western Railway
below Rugby, where I remained till 1859.
[Sidenote: Railway catastrophy.]
In the month of November, 1859, a serious accident occurred on my
section of this road, which might have been more serious for me,
as I was only recently appointed, had I not used the caution on
the moment I did, showing my training as a soldier was useful even
on a railroad. About three in the afternoon, the Midland Express,
twenty minutes overdue, a mineral train came along. I cautioned the
driver to get clear as quickly as possible, which he did, till about
three hundred yards from the station he broke down. I immediately
telegraphed "line blocked." Soon the Express, late, came in sight,
thundering along under two engines--twelve carriages and two guard
vans. Trying all means, I could not stop it, danger signal was up,
waved red flag, still on she came at a rate of seventy miles an hour.
As they passed me, still waving and shouting, they screwed down
to twenty miles; but on she went into the mineral train, smashing
the engine and telescoping the carriages. Fortunately a down train
for Aylesbury had just passed the freight train, or it would have
been much worse. As it was, I felt much worse than ever I did when
charging up to the mouth of a big gun at Magarajpoor, or charging
square of Sikhs, at Aliwal. There were many of the passengers
wounded, one, a lady's maid, was killed. The wounded were removed to
a gentleman's residence near by. Lord and Lady Byron were slightly
injured. The Board of Directors of course had an investigation to
which I was summoned, but completely exonerated from all blame, as
it was proved the station-master below me had neglected his duty,
in not seeing my telegraph "line blocked." I received great praise
from the London papers, and was promoted by the Board to a more
responsible and lucrative post. Still I never could feel happy on my
post. My wife--having married again--constantly fretted for fear of
a repetition, and as it was a worry to my mind, I resigned as I have
before stated, in 1859.
I then went to Liverpool to fill an appointment as Drill Instructor
to the Exchange corps of Volunteers, under Captain Bright, and in
that city I remained, until the opening of the Great Exhibition, in
1862, when I got an appointment in the first great world's show. When
it closed I went to Hampstead, where I was college drill-master until
1869, when I left for Brighton, my birthplace, as superintendent
of the Grand Hotel. So many early associations connected with this
place, and as I had lost all my relatives nearly, I made up my
mind to remove to America along with an old friend of mine, who
determined, like me, to anchor at last in the New World.
[Sidenote: Farewell address.]
Having now reached the point of the story of my life when I must
bid farewell to my reader, I feel refreshed--life renewed almost in
having gone over the history of my early connection with the army,
and the subsequent perils, combats, and adventures in which I was
engaged. I can scarcely credit, on looking back, that all such has
occurred, and that I am the same who, so many years ago, toiled
under great disadvantages through the hot sands of India, parched
with thirst, and ill-provided with food fit for such a climate. I
sometimes think if it is possible, or is a long-past dream--the
charges on Sikh squares at Aliwal and Sobraon, the storming of huge
works, the capture of citadels, the marching in triumph through many
a proud eastern city, after teaching their arrogant rulers that
treachery or treason could not be tolerated by the British. Did I
once stand on the steps of the throne of the once powerful Moguls of
Delhi, and assist at the capture, and escort, after toilsome marches,
some of the turbulent princes of India; and in all these had the
honour of serving under such soldiers as Hardinge, Gough, Pollock,
Nott, Smith, Havelock, and a Cathcart. Apart from this, in another
continent, hunting the huge elephant in the jungles, the slow,
stealthy creep to the leeward of the beast--the shot--the roar--the
crash into the thicket--the double shot--and eventually the heavy
thud with which he falls to the earth almost lifeless.
It has often been said, "Once a soldier, always a soldier," and
another common saying equally as true, "It runs in the blood." These
assertions are true as far as my experience has led me to judge. I
am but a poor example of the truth. One has only to read over the
names of our country's heroes, and, tracing them for generations
back, their ancestors have mostly belonged to either branch of
Her Majesty's service. I am now in the sere and yellow leaf, but
would to-morrow, if not so incapacitated heartily join my old
comrades--"The Pride of England--the Terror of India," ready to go
over the same ground again. This cannot be, however. We all have our
day; young men are coming to the front every day, animated with the
same spirit, but, it seems to me, possessed with more caution. They,
no doubt, when called, will emulate the example of their predecessors
in deeds of bravery.
The Peninsular war, ending at Waterloo, produced brave and heroic
men, who have left their names on the scroll of fame. The Sikh war
added another long list, in which Aliwal and Sobraon heroes figure
conspicuously, as did also the Maharatta war. Again, the Crimea, with
its terrible charge of the Six Hundred, and the dreadful sufferings
through the severe winter of 1854 and 1855, will never be forgotten.
Then the Indian Mutiny, where our countrymen's names come in with
those of Sir Colin and Havelock, for a high meed of praise--all
showing that in the breasts of the sons of the "Three Kingdoms"
there is born a living fire, which, when kindled on the cry of the
oppressed or down-trodden of earth will burn till liberty and freedom
is enthroned.
GOD SAVE THE QUEEN.
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
the text and consultation of external sources.
Except for those changes noted below, misspelling by the author,
and inconsistent or archaic usage, has been retained. For example,
body guard, body-guard; daylight, day light; everywhere, every where;
headquarters, head-quarters.
p. viii duplicate 'and' removed from 'this one and and'.
p. xiii 'Incideut' replaced by 'Incident'.
p. xiii, 61 'Wheat-shooks' replaced by 'Wheat-shocks'.
p. 17 'eighteeen' replaced by 'eighteen'.
p. 21 'Mauritus' replaced by 'Mauritius'.
p. 23 'Governor General's' replaced by 'Governor-General's' for
consistency.
p. 24 'aligators' replaced by 'alligators'.
p. 31 'though' replaced by 'through'.
p. 33 'though' replaced by 'through'.
p. 38, 66 'p. m.' replaced by 'p.m.' for consistency.
p. 41 duplicate 'and' removed from 'city and and'.
p. 43 'Shah Shojah' replaced by 'Shah-Soojah'.
p. 43 'Elphinston' replaced by 'Elphinstone'.
p. 52 'souse' replaced by 'soused'.
p. 54 'couse' replaced by 'cause'.
p. 55 'Khyber' replaced by 'Kyber' for consistency.
p. 59 'make ugly' replaced by 'made ugly'.
p. 75 '--' added after 'Jack'.
p. 78 'Grand turnout' replaced by 'Grand turn out' for consistency.
p. 98 'meet' replaced by 'meat'.
p. 99 duplicate 'the' removed from 'squares of the the'.
p. 109 'Ferosha' replaced by 'Ferusha'.
p. 127 'Kshadriya' replaced by 'Kshatriya'.
p. 130 'bath' replaced by 'birth'.
p. 131 'baths' replaced by 'births'.
p. 135 'lacks' replaced by 'lakhs'.
p. 141 duplicate 'and' removed from 'and and twenty'.
p. 147 'attrocities' replaced by 'atrocities'.
p. 151, 152 'Gaiku' replaced by 'Gaika'.
p. 172 'Poictiers' replaced by 'Poitiers'.
p. 189 'Maharratta' replaced by 'Maharatta'.
Many occurences of 'Sing' have been retained; probably should
be 'Singh'.
For consistency:
several occurrences of 'Shah Soojah' replaced by 'Shah-Soojah';
several occurrences of 'Affghanistan' replaced by 'Afghanistan';
two occurrences of 'Alliwal' replaced by 'Aliwal';
two occurrences of 'Jellalabad' replaced by 'Jellelabad'.