Rio Scinde having died, his throne usurped by the Rannie or
Queen of Gwalior--Ordered to join Lord Gough's Army at Agra--The
Palace of Agra--The ancient seat of the Moguls of Delhi--Lord
Ellenborough rewarding Pollock and Nott--The Targ or Marble
Tomb of Ackbar's favourite daughter--March through the country
of the Ryots--Grain-fields--Religious superstition--The white
bull--Women--The Chumble river crossed--No enemy in sight--Nature
of ground before Maharajpoor--Christmas morning--General Grey and
his Division to arrive at Gwalior--Disposition of Troops--March
to Battle--Wheat-shocks filled with Sharpshooters--Battle--Push
on to within fifteen miles of Gwalior--The Raumi comes out
to meet us--Unconditional surrender--Gwalior a formidable
Place--The Queen and her army surrender--Grey joins us 3rd
January--Reinstatement of the young King--Grand Review--Incident
on a Shooting Excursion--"Bob don't go, Bob don't go"--Break
up Camp, 3rd February--Ordered back to Meerut--Passage of the
Chumble--Frightened Game--A Chase with a Stag--Through Agra and
Delhi to Meerut.
Peace was not of long duration. The old King of Rio Scinde having
died, the British Government, by treaty with him, were bound to see
his son established on his throne. It was now usurped by the Rannie
of Gwalior, who deposed the rightful heir.
The 16th Lancers were ordered to join the army summoned to assemble
at Agra to meet the Governor-General and Lord Gough, on the 15th
November. The Cawnpore division, under General Grey, were moving up
on the other side. The Meerut division consisted of ourselves--three
troops horse artillery, 39th and 40th regiments, three regiments
of native infantry, a battery foot artillery, three companies
sappers and miners. We were received by Lord Gough, who lately
arrived from England as Commander-in-Chief, with Sir Harry Smith as
Adjutant-General, and Colonel Havelock, my old friend, as Persian
interpreter.
[Sidenote: Country of the Ryots.]
Agra was at one time the summer residence of the Moghul of Delhi--it
stands on the Jumna river, whose waters lave the walls of the Palace.
On the marble slab in front of the throne, where in days gone by
stood many a proud Mahometan, when the Rajpoots lorded over the
conquered Hindoos, stood Lord Ellenborough, representative of proud
England, surrounded by her warriors and heroes of many a hard-fought
battle, and knighted Generals Pollock and Nott by Her Majesty's
command for bravery. In Agra also is the tomb or Targ of the great
and mighty Ackbar's favourite daughter, built of white marble, and
looked upon as one of the wonders of the world for its unsurpassing
grandeur--it was erected 700 years ago. Under the immense dome are
two slabs, covering the mausoleum, inlaid with precious stones. The
dome is flanked by four marble minarets 150 feet in height--the
garden approaching the tomb is full of orange and lemon trees--the
sacred lotus flower perfumes the air--every spot around it is sacred
to the Mahometan.
The order to march was issued on the 20th of November. This is the
most delightful time of the year in India--not so hot during the
day--mornings and evenings lovely and cool. The country of the Ryots
through which we marched is certainly a beautiful one, judging at
this time of the year. They are mostly Hindoos, are quiet, harmless
and industrious. It looked strange to us, now so near Christmas, to
see hundreds of acres of golden wheat ready for harvesting--no hedges
or fencing here, but as far as the eye can reach one field of waving
yellow, mixed with red poppy.
The Hindoos are firm believers in transmigration, consequently
never eat any animal food. The Brama or Sacred Bull, mostly white,
with a hump on his shoulders, his head hung with garlands of
flowers, is allowed to range where he likes, and is fed out of
flour or sugar-barrels, and none dare molest him. The women are
most degraded--never educated,--they are not supposed to possess
souls--they never eat with men, and among the high caste they are
not allowed to be seen by another man. After marriage, which is
contracted when about twelve years of age, they are old and ugly when
thirty is reached. When I have seen a group of these girls waiting
with their lamps at the four corners of the road for the bridegroom,
I have often thought of the parable of the Ten Virgins.
[Sidenote: The Chumble river crossed.]
Our march was generally finished by nine in the morning. After
guards and pickets have been placed, I have nearly always visited
the nearest village, having learned some Hindoostanee. I could make
them understand. I always found them civil and kind, but afraid of
soldiers, some Europeans being very insulting, and even I have heard
complaints of being robbed of fruit, poultry, or anything suitable
to them. The followers of an Indian army being all natives, but of
course of different parts of India, are generally great thieves.
Naturally an army _en route_ is very destructive, so many animals to
feed--elephants, camels, horses. The Government profess to pay for
everything used, especially if camped in a grain or cotton field.
[Sidenote: March to battle.]
We arrived at the river Chumble on 24th December, and moved as
follows:--16th Lancers in front, 40th following, up to their armpits
in water, next the artillery, then the 39th, and so on. We had
information before crossing that the enemy would probably oppose
the landing, as they were in the neighbourhood, but we saw none of
them. We were ordered to gallop to the front and reconnoitre. As
we advanced about five miles we saw the enemy's camp at a distance
between two villages. We halted allowing the column to come up.
The ground here was very rough, and interspersed by ugly ravines.
Between us and them was a very deep Nulla, with only two places to
ford it, five miles apart. Wet as we were from our recent fording
the Chumla, I had to go on in charge of the advance guard and remain
all night. Our baggage, or tents, not having come up--what was worse
the Commissariat had not arrived, and we felt hungry. The enemy's
cavalry were reconnoitering on our front, and during the night a
very strict watch was kept up. Morning at last dawned, beautiful as
weather could make it--Christmas morning and all--and a pretty plight
it found us in, hungry, wet clothes, and if we wanted to drink we had
plenty muddy water. About four o'clock, p.m., I was ordered to mount
again, take twenty men, and strengthen the outlying pickets. We had
not taken off boots or clothes for four days, nor had the saddles
been off the horses during the same time. I was further directed
by the officer in charge of the picket, after I had reported to
him, to take six troopers to the front as an extra look-out on the
ford, patrolling myself between my post and the main picket every
half-hour. About twelve at night a rocket went up from a village
within our lines, and was answered immediately by a light from the
enemy's camp. The village was at once surrounded, and every man in
it made prisoners. I suffered fearfully that night, being so long in
the saddle with wet trousers; my legs were as raw as a piece of beef.
Give me fighting--fair open fighting, at once--in preference to such
torture. We waited here, without attacking, three days, expecting
some of General Grey's division, mainly from Cawnpore, towards
Gwalior.
On the night of the 28th we got orders quietly to turn out at 4
o'clock in the morning, 29th December, to march without baggage or
other incumbrance, with one day's cooked rations. We fell into line
exactly to time, when Lord Gough with Lord Ellenborough and staff
rode along the front, speaking words of encouragement to each corps.
[Sidenote: Battle.]
Sir Joseph Thackwell, who had only one arm, commanded the Light
Division, consisting of the 16th Lancers, Body Guards, three
troops Horse Artillery, Outram's Irregulars. The centre division
was commanded by Colonel Vallient, comprised the 40th foot, two
batteries Foot Artillery, two corps of Native Infantry, one company
of Engineers. The Left Division consisting of 39th Foot, five
Native Cavalry, two regiments Native Infantry, and one company of
Sappers under Sir Harry Smith. Each division crossed the ravine
within one mile of each other. They were in position between three
villages--Maharajpoor in the centre, Juna on the right, and Chuna on
the left. We marched until seven o'clock, when we halted. The enemy
at once opened fire from their half-moon battery. Nothing could be
more welcome; we hurrahed several times and shouted lustily, "There
goes the Prize-Money," showing, without doubt, the general feeling
of our army,--there was no such thing as failure. The trumpeter now
sounded for us "To Horse, To Horse," and away we went at a swinging
trot to the front, preceded by Quarter-Master General Churchill, as
it is that officer's business to learn the position of an enemy, and
the nature of the ground, we advanced in close column of troops. Our
route lay through a cotton plantation, and on nearing the enemy we
were received by a discharge from a six-gun battery. A six-pound shot
took my horse in the heart, and we both rolled over. I was extricated
by some Grenadiers of a Native regiment just passing, much bruised.
I was not long without a horse, as peppering had been going on by
the advanced picket, a horse, minus the rider, fully accoutred,
which had belonged to the enemy, passed. I seized it, and soon came
up with my troop. We formed in line, in front of us being a field
of wheat standing in shocks; these we found occupied by the enemy's
sharp-shooters, quite concealed. A shot from one of these picked off
General Churchill; as he fell, Colonel Somerset, an aide, dismounted
to assist him; he was nearly as unfortunate, as a shot from one of
their batteries broke his leg, killing his horse on the spot--poor
Churchill died as he was being taken to the rear. The battle now
became more fierce. The centre division, led by the 40th, under
Colonel Vallient, charged, and at the point of the bayonet took the
Village of Maharajpoor. Just then, the enemy's cavalry were coming
down like a dark cloud upon our guns, when the 16th, my regiment, and
the Body Guards were ordered to charge; this we were quite prepared
to do, as soldiers, at least so far as my experience teaches, do
not like to be onviewers, or watchers. Charge we did, but to our
astonishment, as soon as they saw our movement, retreat was their
order, and we afterwards heard they never stopped until they reached
Gwalior. At noon the battle was over, the enemy fled, leaving all
their camp equipage, guns, and about six thousand dead on the field.
Their force was estimated 24,000, while ours only numbered 10,000,
in having left 4,000 to protect our camp and hospital. Our loss was
2,500 officers, rank and file.
[Sidenote: The Queen surrenders.]
The following day we pushed on, halting some fifteen miles from
Gwalior. Here we camped for a time. The Rannie, or Queen, came down
with a strong guard, four thousand cavalry, to pay her respects, and
make terms of peace with Lord Ellenborough. He would not hear of any
only an unconditional surrender. The day after the Rannie's visit
we marched on the capital, reaching Gwalior about nine a.m. Of all
the fortified places ever I had seen, this was the most formidable.
A large rock in the centre of an extensive plain, the city built in
the middle, and so surrounded by the rocky wall, as to leave only one
ascent, and that a zigzag one. The walls all round were loop-holed
and bristled with cannon. Our first thought was--We are done now.
But, of course, engineering skill and brave hearts laugh at stone
walls. All was got ready to storm, as if taken, it must be taken at
a dash, and as is always the case, a flag of truce was despatched
to warn of our intention of giving them one hour to choose between
unconditional surrender or the consequence of a refusal. In half that
time the Ranee and her army marched out, a battalion of our infantry
entered, and hoisted the British flag on the walls.
We remained in Gwalior until joined by General Grey on January 3rd.
This division had marched from Cawnpore, and consisted of the 9th
Lancers, 3rd Buffs, three regiments Native Infantry, 2 brigades of
Artillery, and the 50th Foot, under command of Colonel Anderson. They
had been engaged with other portions of the enemy at Punneah on the
same day we were fighting at Maharajpoor.
On the 4th, the day following, the entire army was paraded to do
honour to the young king, who had been reinstated on his throne,
the ceremony being performed before all the people, in front of
the city--and on the following day we were reviewed by Lord Gough,
in presence of His Majesty, Lord Ellenborough, and the king's
ministers. In the Governor-General's address of thanks to the army,
he promised us a medal in shape of a star for the capture of Gwalior,
and the Ranee, though now deposed, gave one crow of rupees. This
was given directly, and a squadron of the 9th and one of the 16th
Lancers escorted it in bags, carried by fourteen camels, to the
Commander-in-Chief's camp.
In any part of India I have ever been, I have always seen plenty of
game, but the territory of Gwalior can certainly boast of more than
any other. The gardens were laid out beautiful. Fruit of every kind
was abundant. The principal people here are half Portuguese.
[Sidenote: "Bob, don't go, Bob, don't go."]
The following incident occurred on one of my shooting excursions.
Three of us went out looking for pea-fowl, as they make a beautiful
dish. We reached a Mango grove, and sat under a tree. A stream of
water ran a few yards away from us, beautiful in appearance to bathe
in. Robert Prichard, a corporal in the regiment, one of us, took
it into his head to bathe. I remonstrated with him, urging probably
the presence of venomous snakes or serpents, very numerous in the
Bengal Presidency. He would go, and go he did. My last words were:
"Bob, don't you go." As he started, immediately there came the same
words--"Bob, don't you go"--"Bob, don't you go," again came more
rapidly. Bob did turn back rather afraid, still he persuaded himself
he was no coward, away he went again, and again the same words came
thick and fast, "Bob, don't you go," "Bob, don't you go." On looking
up we discovered a number of brown birds, similar in appearance to
thrushes, in the trees, and as we rose to leave the cry went on,
"Bob, don't you go," "Bob, don't you go," but Bob did bathe, and was
bitten by a venomous snake, and died that evening.
I have previously stated that the Hindoos are very superstitious,
and do not kill anything--not even the poisonous snake. This part
of India is not much travelled over by Europeans, and all sorts of
dangerous reptiles and wild beasts live on undisturbed to kill man.
The 16th Lancers had by this time completed twenty-two years'
service in India, and naturally enough, many looked forward for the
order to bring them back to England. It was not to be yet, however,
although we all thought that the 9th had come out to relieve us.
On the third of February we broke up camp, and commenced and
marched back to our several cantonments. On our way the time passed
pleasantly enough. After camp-pitching for the day, if a village
was within easy distance, I generally went thither, accompanied by
some companion. Generally the villagers will shy away when they get
a glimpse of a soldier, they are afraid of being plundered, but the
most reasonable excuse is, I think, to be found in their religion
being insulted, at least here, for almost everything is sacred. Their
former rulers, the Rajahs, plundered unmercifully, and allowed their
men to commit the vilest of crimes.
[Sidenote: Frightened game.]
So full is this country of game as we neared the river Chumble,
where I had on my way up got such a severe wetting in crossing, as
to fasten a severe cold on me for some days. One morning at sunrise,
geese, duck, and other water-fowl rose off the water in such a large
dense cloud as to darken the air, as if a thunder-storm were coming
on. No one with us ever saw such a multitude. Like every other living
thing, they are never disturbed, but live on and multiply.
No matter what our position in life--either high or low--or whatever
our tastes for a variety of food, no men feel the loss of satisfying
this desire more than soldiers on a campaign, always confined to the
same diet. I have heard old soldiers say they remembered they had
such an abhorrence for hard biscuit, and such an appetite for fresh
bread, impossible to get at the time, that if a year's pay could get
one fresh loaf, they would give it. We felt now something of this
feeling, and all ranks longed for a change of some sort, either in
bread or meat. Here was a fine opportunity, and it was availed of
to the full extent, as far as the animal food could do it. Three of
our officers, Captain Meek, Lieutenant Patterson, and the Veterinary
Surgeon, respectively nicknamed--Meek, The Hair Trunk; Patterson,
Black Jack; and the veterinary, Hot-water Jack--were sitting together
engaged in mending their jackets and pants, one occasionally rising
to feed the fire over which was pinioned on the sticks a leg of a
stag or of mutton, I could not say which, and no doubt, as they
felt hungry, anticipating a nice feed, when all of a sudden we were
startled by shouts and hurrahs and roars of laughter. A dog had
stolen unawares, when they were engaged in their tailoring, and
making one bounce, seized the roasting limb, and away with him. The
three, with jackets pants and flannels flying from their arms, after
the poor hungry brute, shouting with all their might--"Stop thief!
stop thief!" It was relished after all, notwithstanding the extra
handling and dog-bites it got.
[Sidenote: Through Agra and Delhi to Meerut.]
After passing the river and ascending the hill on the opposite bank,
we came suddenly on a herd of antelopes. So astonished did they seem,
on perceiving horsemen, they actually stood staring at us, until
nearing them, they started at a bound, some dashing through the ranks
of our squadron. One of our men gave chase to a splendid buck, as he
ran towards a village, near which we knew was a pond. The stag took
to it; the man followed, having jumped off his horse, and seized him
by the horns. The stag was the strongest, and dashed the man away in
the water; still he held on until an officer coming on the scene,
stabbed him, and, amid roars of laughter, the corporal emerged,
covered with green slime and chick-weed. That day we had venison for
twelve, the officers taking the rest.
Agra and Delhi was at last reached, then Meerut on the 4th March,
having been five months on that campaign, and lost fifty men from the
regiment. Here we passed the hot season, from the middle of March
to the beginning of May, as what are called the hot winds blow from
eight in the morning till between four and five in the evening, no
one in that time can stir out of doors--not even the natives can
stand the scorching heat. The torment, the mosquitoes, are busy
humming all this time. I have seen men almost blinded with their
swollen faces; however, there is one relief, every soldier can have a
native to fan him, and keep them off. Another pest during this season
is found in the numbers of jackalls who run in packs at night, and
actually bold enough to get under the beds.
[Illustration: (Vignette)]