TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors
have been corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences
within the text and consultation of external sources.
More detail can be found at the end of the book.
TEN YEARS IN INDIA,
AND
THREE YEARS IN SOUTH AFRICA,
_IN THE_
CAPE CORPS LEVIES.
TEN YEARS IN INDIA,
IN THE
16TH QUEEN'S LANCERS.
AND
THREE YEARS IN SOUTH AFRICA,
IN THE CAPE CORPS LEVIES.
FIRST AFGHAN CAMPAIGN.
THE MAHARATTA WAR.
THE SHEIK WAR.
INCLUDING BATTLES OF
GHUZNEE, CABUL,
MAHARAJPOOR, BUDDEWAL,
ALIWAL, SOBRAON,
AND KAFFIR WAR OF 1850-51.
REPLETE WITH ANECDOTES--INCIDENTS INSEPARABLE FROM MILITARY LIFE--MANNERS
AND CUSTOMS OF THE SEVERAL INDIAN RACES, MAHOMEDANS, HINDOOS AND
KAFFIR TRIBES--TALES OF ELEPHANT HUNTING, ETC., ETC.
BY
W. J. D. GOULD,
_Formerly Sergt. 16th Queen's Lancers, "The Terror of India,"
afterwards Lieut. Cape European Levies._
Toronto:
HUNTER, ROSE & COMPANY, WELLINGTON ST.
MDCCCLXXX.
[Illustration: (Publisher's colophone.)]
ENTERED according to the Act of the Parliament in Canada, in the
year one thousand eight hundred and eighty, by W. J. D. GOULD, in
the Office of the Minister of Agriculture.
TO
HIS EXCELLENCY,
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
John Douglas Sutherland Campbell,
K.T., K.C.M.G.
MARQUIS OF LORNE,
GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA,
&c., &c., &c.
This Work is Dedicated
BY THE AUTHOR, WHO, AS HE HAS PASSED THE MEREDIAN, AND IS
NOW APPROACHING THE LIMIT OF HIS EARTHLY EXISTENCE,
LOOKS BACK WITH FEELINGS OF PRIDE, ON THE
HUMBLE PART HE TOOK, AS ONE OF THE OLD
16TH QUEEN'S LANCERS,
IN ALL THE MEMORABLE ENGAGEMENTS IN WHICH THEY PARTICIPATED
IN INDIA,
AND
NOT THE LEAST OF ALL DOES HE FEEL THE HONOUR CONFERRED
IN THUS GRANTING LEAVE TO ISSUE THE WORK
UNDER SUCH
DISTINGUISHED PATRONAGE.
TORONTO, Ontario, 1880.
[Illustration: (Vignette)]
PREFACE.
The most pleasant memories of my boyhood are clustered around the
old family fireplace, in our home in Brighton, England, when my
father, gathering us all around him, with occasionally a few intimate
friends, recounted such tales of war as often made me desire I was
a man at once, in order that I might there and then enrol myself
as one of my country's defenders. He had served, I believe, with
distinction, in the Tenth Royal Hussars, as an officer, both under
Sir John Moore, and the Iron Duke. He was present at the retreat on
Corunna, and, as the old man touchingly gave that narrative, I well
remember the big tears course down his cheeks, losing all control of
himself, his utterances almost ceasing when he pictured the hour
when his heart-broken comrades,
"Buried him darkly, at dead of night."
This was not all, however. Rising to a pitch of the greatest
excitement, his language grew bolder and more fierce as he
progressed, bringing us all through Salamanca, Talavera,
Duoro, Orthes, with the Iron Duke, down to the "King-making
Victory,"--Waterloo. He may have been too fond of dwelling on
his own exploits--the fierce charge on squares--the hand to hand
encounters--sabreing this one and then that one--for, as the
night's entertainment closed, for such it was considered, his old arm
chair would be many yards away from its original position, driven
by force of arms and legs, depicting this cut at a trooper's head,
that point at a breast, this guard from an intended cleaver, as he
called it, and I have often since thought, how wise my mother was in
her forethought to hide away his sword at such times, for I verily
believe, so forgetful was he on those occasions, some damage would be
done to arms or legs, in his enthusiasm of description.
It is not to be wondered at, this early training though unintended
on his part, had its effect on his son in after life. Intended for
the profession of a Land Surveyor, I could brook nothing short of
following in his footsteps. The scenes plainly set forth in this
narrative occurred mostly in India, during the first Afghan war, in
1839, the Maharatta war, and the subsequent war in the Punjaub, from
1843 to 1846, trying times to the army in India. That country is so
full of study, in its ancient buildings, mosques, temples, shrines,
and manners and customs, that, I have only cursorily glanced at them,
and only when positions and incidents are necessary for the full
understanding of my movements, I have no doubt, however, that, by a
careful perusal of the whole much interest will be created, and more
sympathy excited for the men, who, careless of all else, ventured
life to uphold the honour of dear old England. In some cases, war is
too often employed to further ambition, or in adding some coveted
spot to an already overgrown empire. With this, the soldier has
nothing to do. The English soldier has been often pitted against
great odds, and as there is no retreating in our army, but "to do or
die," much more interest centres around him than a soldier of any
other country. Kind reader, may I ask you to follow me through, while
I endeavour to picture to you such battles as Ghuznee and Cabul,
Maharajpoor and Buddewal, Aliwal and Sobraon; and I am sure you will
be convinced, as was the old King of Delhi, that men who carried the
red cross banner through such actions as these, were really, as he
dubbed my old corps, the Sixteenth Queen's Royal Lancers, afterwards,
"The pride of England, and the terror of India."
TORONTO, Ont., 1880.
[Illustration: (Vignette)]
[Illustration: (Vignette)]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Sixteenth Queen's Lancers--Regiment in India--Gravesend--Scenes
_en route_--Embark on board _Lord Exmouth_--Sprung a
Leak--Plymouth Sound--Passage--Passing the line--Father
Neptune--Cape de Verde Islands--Becalmed--Fishing--Cape
of Good Hope--Albatrosses--Pass St. Paul and
Amsterdam--Storm--Isle of Fraun--Sandhead--Hooghly--Fort
William--View of Calcutta--Disembark--Chinasura Garden
reach--Dutch Fort--Cholera--Orders for Cawnpore--Up Ganges in
Boats--Typhoon--Swamped--Loss of a Lady--Scenery along the
River--Benares, the holy city--Allahabad--Cawnpore--Night
marching--Camp--Description of large Banyan
Tree--Meerat--Regiment--Captain Havelock--War Rumours 17
CHAPTER II.
Dost Mahomet usurps the throne of Afghanistan--Meerut division
ordered to assemble five miles from Delhi--The King inspects
our army--Pass through Maharajah Rimjut Sing's country--The
Punjaub--Sir H. Vane--Hindoo Koosh--General John Keane--Cross the
attack--Sufferings on the Sandy Plain--Valley of Shaul--Entrance
to Bolam Pass--Lieut. Imvariety--Candahar--Crowning
Shah-Soojah--Through the Pass--First sight of Dost's Army--Battle
of Ghuznee--Storming--Col. Sale--Citadel sacked--Feelings
after Battle--Natives--Orders received for Cabul--March--Cabul
Camp opposite city--Enter--Supposed some of the Lost Tribes
of Israel--Proof--Affecting scene at the Death of Colonel
Arnold--finding of two old tombstones with date 1662--Russian
ambition--Elphinstone left to protect Shah-Soojah--Back to
India through the Kyber, swarming with Kyberees--Dost and
his commanders prisoners with us--General Avetavela escorts
us through Peshwa--Punishment of Robbers--Crossing the
Boundary--Meerut--Memorial 30
CHAPTER III.
Native sobriety and European drunkenness--Hindoo Mahoram feast
Ceremony--Native habits--Shooting Sandgeese, Ducks, Parrots,
Monkeys--Report of death of Shah-Soojah--Akbar Khan assumes
the government--General Elphinstone retires--Mr. McNaughton
killed--Massacre in Guddulock Pass by Akbar Khan--44th foot cut
to pieces--A few escape to Jellelabad--Colonel Denny--Major
Havelock--Colonel Sale attacks Akbar--Denny killed--Havelock in
command--General Pollock pushes on from Bengal--Doctor Brydon--His
miraculous escape through the Pass--General Nott ordered to
Ghuznee--Pollock reinforces Sale--Lord Auckland succeeded by Lord
Ellenborough--The Gates of the Temple of Somnuth--The Maharajah
of Lahore pays his respects to Lord Ellenborough--Durbar at
Delhi--Review before the King and Indian Princes--Meerut again--My
comrade Jaco--The Spaniel and Jaco 49
CHAPTER IV.
Rio Scinde having died, his throne usurped by the Rannie or
Queen of Gwalior--Ordered to join Lord Gough's Army at Agra--The
Palace of Agra--The ancient seat of the Moguls of Delhi--Lord
Ellenborough rewarding Pollock and Nott--The Targ or Marble
Tomb of Akbar's favourite daughter--March through the country
of the Ryots--Grain-fields--Religious superstition--The white
bull--Women--The Chumble river crossed--No enemy in sight--Nature
of ground before Maharajpoor--Christmas morning--General Grey and
his Division to arrive at Gwalior--Disposition of Troops--March
to Battle--Wheat-shocks filled with Sharpshooters--Battle--Push
on to within fifteen miles of Gwalior--The Raumi comes out
to meet us--Unconditional surrender--Gwalior a formidable
Place--The Queen and her army surrenders--Grey joins us 3rd
January--Reinstatement of the young King--Grand Review--Incident
on a Shooting Excursion--"Bob, don't go, Bob, don't go"--Break
up Camp, 3rd February--Ordered back to Meerut--Passage of the
Chumble--Frightened Game--A Chase with a Stag--Through Agra and
Delhi to Meerut 61
CHAPTER V.
Old companionship at Meerut--General Arbuthnot and the
16th--Grand turn out--A bet won--40th leave for home--9th
Lancers for Umballa--Natives with tattoo bring in fruit and
vegetables--Description of the Mango--Sedanna--The Begum or Queen,
a pensioner of the Company--Something of her life--Persuades
the Rajah to fly--Feigning assassination caused him to stab
himself--Proclaimed Queen by her army--Marries a French
Adventurer--Visit to our Camp--Her palace--Rumours of an invasion
of our territory by the Shieks near Ferozepoor--Lord Gough at
Umballa--News from the Punjaub--The Rannie or Queen had dethroned
Dulep Sing--Ordered to Punjaub--Sketch of the Sing dynasty--Three
French officers revolutionize the army and bring under the French
model--They possess the whole of the Punjaub Peshwa--An eye on
Bengal--Advised to become allies--Treaty with Lord Auckland--The
Queen makes away with the three eldest sons--Her paramour, Lal
Sing--Confines the youngest in the harem--Lord Gough at Mudkee Sir
R. Sale killed--Ferusha--50th and 62nd Foot--Ignorance at Meerut
of all their movements--March on the Sutledge--Sad evidences _en
route_ of late havoc 78
CHAPTER VI.
Hureka Gaut--Sir Harry Smith ordered to intercept Rungour
Sing--Joined by 77th foot--March--View of Buddural--Opened
fire--16th to hold ground while infantry push on--Too weak to fight
yet--Baggage cut off--Some of 31st foot made prisoners--Treatment
of their sergeant by the enemy--Push into Loodianna--News of their
retreat--Ordered to intercept--Arrival at fort--Harem--Finding two
bags of rupees--Reinforced and advance--Order of troops--Battle
of Aliwal commenced--Sir Harry's telescope cut in two--"Lancers,
three cheers for our Queen"--Charge--A square of guards--Corporal
Newsom--Bravery--Killed--Green flag in his hand--"Immortalized
16th"--Fearful loss--Join another squadron--Pursuit to
river--Destruction--Wounded to village--March to join Lord
Gough--Two hundred cannon belching together--Sobraon 10th
February--Description of battle--British flag planted--The
bridge blown up--Charge the entrenchments--Victory and end
of Sikh War--Losses--Labour--Chiefs bring out the young
Maharajah--Reception in Lord Hardinge's marquee--Terms--Crowning
the young King--Proud Sikhs--Retort on our Sepoys 90
CHAPTER VII.
Sir H. Lawrence--Orders for home--Re-cross
Sutledge--Jerosha--Scenes of previous engagement--Meerut--Leave
for Calcutta--Down Ganges--Col. Cureton's farewell--Dum
Dum--Calcutta, city, grand Ball--Sights--Embark for home--Bay
of Bengal--Ascension--St. Helena--Doru Cliffs--Boats coming
off--Relatives--March to Canterbury--Furlough--London--Meet Sisters
and Mother--Deal--Battle--Anniversary--Buckingham Palace--Reviewed
by Her Majesty--Claim Discharge--Causes--Take Ship for South Africa
108
CHAPTER VIII.
The religion of the
Hindoos--Castes--Brahmins--Kshatriyas--Vaisyas--Sudras--Sub-division
by mixed marriages--The Triune Godhead: Brahma the centre, Vishnu
the preserver or sustainer, and Siva, the destroyer--The Hindoo
Pantheon--Brahmin place of worship--The Sacred Cow--Transmigration
of souls--Degrees of punishment for various sins--The fate of the
murderer, the adulterer, the unmerciful 124
CHAPTER IX.
Delhi the ancient capital of the Mogul Empire--General description,
population, &c.--The king's palace--Embattled walls and
guns--Martello towers--Jumna Musjeed, or chief mosque--The tombs of
the Humayoon, and of Sefjar Jung--The Shelima gardens--The ancient
Patons, or Afghan conquerors of India--The celebrated Cattab
Minar--The tomb of Humayoon--The aqueduct of Alikhan--College for
Orientals and Europeans 133
CHAPTER X.
Cape of Good Hope--First sight of--Inhabitants--Descent and
other particulars--Sir Harry again--Sandicea in rebellion--War
rumours--Join a Volunteer Corps--Off for frontier--East
London--Army at Fort William--Join them--Gazetted Lieutenant--The
Jungle--Kaffir women--73rd Regiment--Arrangements--Enter the
Gaika tribe country--The huts--The kraal--43rd, 60th and 12th
Lancers--General Somerset--Fort Beaufort--Colonel Fordyce
shot--Buffalo Post--Capture cattle--Pursuit of Kaffirs--Sardillas'
horse shot--Bridle neck bush--Time-expired men--Back to
recruit--The Hottentot--East London again 145
CHAPTER XI.
Transferred to Fingoe Service--Fingoe character--Ordered to Kye
river--Chief Krielle--Colonel Eyre--Through the bush--The Chief's
position--Battered by big guns--Cattle captured--On return
march--Harassed by enemy--One month on march bring in 500 head--Sir
Harry called home--Sir George Cathcart--Sandilla surrendered--Chief
Moshusha--Attack his stronghold--Surrenders--Back to Fort
William--Disbanded--Off on elephant hunt--Provisions for--Plan
to capture--Kill four--Trading with Chiefs and their
wives--Precautions against lions--Elephant's spoor--Excursion often
fatal--Back to Grahamstown--Stiles' Hotel 159
CHAPTER XII.
West to Clanwilliam--Mr. Shaw--Productions of
farm--Back to the Cape--Open an hotel--Pleasures of
Cape life--Ships put in for Australia--Imports--Market
day--Arrangements--Waggons--Fish--Lobsters--Off to Port
Elizabeth--Whale fishing--Sea elephants--Manner of killing--The
Penguin--Habits of the bird--Back to the Cape--English Church
at Newlands--The Bay--Wreck of a Baltimore vessel--Loss
of two children, captain's wife, and the mate--Habits of
Hottentots--Manner of living--A marriage--A present and
its return--Loss in business by partner absconding--Leave
the Cape--East India docks--Buckinghamshire--Relatives at
home--Station master--Accident detailed--Near Rugby--Exonerated and
promoted--Liverpool--Brighton--To Canada--Farewell address 175
[Illustration: (Vignette)]
TEN YEARS IN INDIA.
CHAPTER I.
Sixteenth Queen's Lancers--Regiment in India--Gravesend--Scenes
_en route_--Embark on board _Lord Exmouth_--Sprung a
Leak--Plymouth Sound--Passage--Passing the line--Father
Neptune--Cape de Verde Islands--Becalmed--Fishing--Cape
of Good Hope--Albatrosses--Pass St. Paul and
Amsterdam--Storm--Isle of Fraun--Sandhead--Hooghly--Fort
William--View of Calcutta--Disembark--Chinasura Garden
reach--Dutch Fort--Cholera--Orders for Cawnpore--Up Ganges in
Boats--Typhoon--Swamped--Loss of a Lady--Scenery along the
River--Benares, the holy city--Allahabad--Cawnpore--Night
marching--Camp--Description of large Banyan
Tree--Meerut--Regiment--Captain Havelock--War Rumors.
Though now fast approaching the valley we all must enter, I feel a
certain degree of pride when I remember the Saturday in November,
eighteen hundred and thirty-seven, which made me one of Her
Majesty's Sixteenth Queen's Lancers. The Regiment was then in India,
and, as Maidstone in Kent was at that time the centre for all depôts
whose corps were abroad, I was sent thither. I am not going to
trouble the reader with all the minutiæ of drill, horse and foot,
always necessary to make a man perfect for his profession, suffice,
it was long and arduous, borne with pleasure, so as to get as quickly
as possible ready for service abroad. For this purpose I joined, and
for this I done my utmost to prepare.
[Sidenote: Embark on Board "Lord Exmouth."]
In February, the following year, I, with members of my own and other
corps, left Maidstone for Gravesend en route for Calcutta. I need
hardly detail any scenes which may have occurred in our progress
to the port of embarkation. They are often witnessed in England,
and once seen can never be forgotten. Preceded by a band playing
patriotic airs, brings to the windows and doors all the inhabitants
on the line. The soldiers answer cheer with cheer, for their spirits
must have vent, and they can read goodwill and Godspeed on the faces
of all the people they meet. At this time there was a rumour in
England of approaching trouble in Afghanistan. The people as they
looked on us, seemed to understand this, and some may have been
thinking, "Poor fellows, how many of you will come back, but no
matter, they are glad to go, and fight too." British soldiers always
are; and in this, a draft for active service differs from those that
are sent off in times of peace, when a man would be glad to skulk if
he could get the chance.
Arrived at Gravesend, we go aboard the _Lord Exmouth_ transport, and
as the ship's bell announces the hour for weighing anchor, cheer
after cheer bursts forth again from the men all along the docks,
caught up by the sailors on the yards, and again by the crowd of
spectators ashore, and the ship carries us out of port, away from the
land which has seen thousands and thousands of heroes go forth to
make Britain what she is.
The confusion for the while is very great, but with willing hands all
soon get righted--the golden rule on board a troop ship is rigidly
adhered to, "A place for everything, and everything in its place."
All now settle down to life aboard. On the fifth day out, our ship
in a fog struck a rock, sprung a leak, and we were obliged to put
into Plymouth Sound; in three days all was again righted, and we
started on our voyage. Nearing the Cape de Verde Islands, we pass the
line, and as it may be interesting I will here give a description of
the customary honours paid to old Father Neptune while passing the
equator. All who had not crossed this imaginary line before, which,
of course, in our case were few, had to be shaved, or pay a fine to
Father Neptune. The boatswain acted as the redoubtable father; over
the side under the bowsprit; he first challenges, then comes on board
attended by his sea-nymphs, riding on a gun rigged for him; a board
is placed over a large tub of sea-water; the men who have not paid
their respects before--crossed the line--are ranged along the board,
lathered with a tar brush, and shaved with an old iron hoop, then
soused into the tub of salt water, amid roars of laughter.
[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope--storm.]
Passing Cape de Verde Islands, the first land we saw for six weeks,
we were becalmed--not a breath of wind, the heat in the tropics
intense. We spent some of our time in fishing; we caught several
beneta--a beautiful fish--and some dolphins. We now got a good
breeze, rounded the Cape of Good Hope far to the west, and entered
the Pacific Ocean. Here we encountered some rough weather, when
calmed we caught many albatrosses with pork; this is a splendid
bird, measuring eighteen feet from tip to tip of wing, all white,
and strange to say, when they are brought on deck, they get giddy,
and cannot fly, though free to do so. Passing the barren, rocky
islands of Saint Pauls and Amsterdam, we approach the Indian Ocean.
Just before entering these waters, the sky had every appearance of
a storm, and sure enough the day after we noticed the indication,
we encountered a perfect hurricane, carrying away fore-mast, main
and mizzen, long boat, our good cow and sheep, and seven pigs,
leaving us a perfect wreck. This lasted two days and nights. We were
drifted about one thousand miles away from land, but Captain Warren
rigged jury masts, and the day after we sighted a French ship. After
passing signals the Captain promised to keep by us till we got to
the Mauritius. In five days we sighted the Isle of France, here
our vessel was overhauled, everything made right to enable us to
continue our voyage. All went well until our arrival at the Sandheads
off the mouth of the Hooghly river. Here we signalled for a pilot,
and soon made the Hooghly, one of the many branches of the Ganges.
Passing Tiger island, many of the natives came off in dingies, almost
naked, to see us. At first we supposed they were women, from having
their hair tied up and fastened with a comb on the top of the head.
Diamond harbor was also passed, until we made Fort William, where we
anchored. Just five months' sail from England.
[Sidenote: Disembark--Dutch fort.]
When viewed from on board ship, Calcutta, in the bright morning sun,
presents a beautiful picture; the city rises high from the edge of
the grand old river with imposing majesty. The marvellous line of
architecture in every possible variety of form--countless numbers of
temples, small and great, and over-topping these, fortress-looking
stone and marble palaces--certainly nothing could be more unique than
such a first glimpse under a bright sun, and blue sky, of forms so
fantastic--brightest lights and shadows numberless; of balconies,
verandahs, towers, cupolas, projections, recesses, galleries endless
and undescribable; and again, the costume of the natives who came
to see us, merchants, nabobs, Chinese, Parsees, people from Bengal,
Bombay, Madras, in fact from every place under the sun one would
imagine.
On the following day we disembarked, and proceeded to Chinsura,
about twelve miles along the river. This is a large fortress, built
by the Dutch. As we proceeded we saw the Governor-General's palace,
built of white marble. Garden Reach must be a most beautiful place
to reside, with its villas on the banks, and delightful palaces, and
cocoanut trees sloping to the water's edge. It is here generally the
European merchants reside. We found the Dutch fortress or barracks
a most spacious building, with lofty rooms, each capable of holding
one hundred men. The Twenty-sixth Cameronians, and part of the
Forty-ninth Foot were here awaiting orders for China, and detachments
of the Third Light Dragoons, Thirteenth and Forty-fourth Infantry,
waiting orders, as we ourselves were also, to proceed up the country
to join their respective regiments.
[Sidenote: Scenery along the Ganges.]
While waiting at the fort, before proceeding to join the Regiment,
the cholera broke out among the troops, and for the time it lasted
we suffered severely--as many as twenty falling victims in one day.
In July we received orders to proceed up the Ganges to Cawnpore,
embarking on the fifteenth in large boats with thatched roofs,
looking like floating houses; each boat's crew consisting of seven
sailors in charge of a Jemida, or Captain. I learned after these
men were pressed from the surrounding villages, as many of them
ran away, and, indeed, no wonder, for the work must have been very
laborious, pulling by ropes along the bank, and at this season the
current was all against them, as the river had lately overflowed
its banks. Nearing Ghazapoor, we encountered one of those severe
typhoons, so common, and which come on so suddenly in India. This one
broke with terrific force, capsizing the boat I was in, and giving
all hands a baptising in the raging river. The sergeant-major, his
wife, and myself were washed to a sand bank. One young lady, going up
the country to join her father, a captain in one of the Regiments,
was lost--we suppose, as the river was full of alligators, she was
captured by one of them. The Jamida and his crew we never could
find; but suppose they ran away. The other boats had gone ahead, and
as soon as I found my way clear--being a good swimmer, I shot out for
the bank, ran along for more than a mile, until I reached the rest.
They sent back aid and rescued the man and his wife. If this was to
be my experience of the Ganges, give me before it half a dozen ocean
voyages.
[Sidenote: Allahabad--Cawnpore.]
The beauty of the scenery along the Ganges is hard to
describe--fertile valleys innumerable, indigo plantations--here
and there flocks of beautiful parrots; monkeys by the hundreds,
capering about, particularly in the Tarmarand trees, pulling and
throwing cocoa-nuts about, and as we moored at night the trees would
be swarmed, grimacing and yelling, such an unearthly noise--add
to this, all around seemed spotted with fire from the innumerable
fireflies, while the chorus the monkeys made, and the noise from the
flocks of flying foxes, almost scares a stranger. As the face of the
country alters, so the extent of the overflow can be best seen. In
some places, where the land is low, five or six miles in breadth is
covered with water; in others between high rocky banks, confine its
course, and here the flow of water is very great, trying enough on
the boats, and the unfortunate men pulling them. At Benares we stayed
one day. This is the holy city of the Hindoos, as Jerusalem to the
Jews, or as Mecca to the Mahommedan. This city contains from nine
hundred to one thousand temples, and thousands of images of the many
gods worshipped by its people. The highest ambition of the Hindoo
devotee is, although he may be tottering with age or sickness, and
almost crawling on the earth through deformity, to visit the shrines
at Benares, and walk for fifty miles around its sacred territory.
Here they come from all parts of India, as it is considered a sure
passport to glory to die within it. The temples have all their gods;
some of them ugly looking monsters. The people prostrate themselves
and strike a bell, which is in every one of them, and then depart.
At certain great festivals, thousands assemble from the city on
the banks of the river--a great bell is struck--horns are blowed
by the priests, then these fanatics, thousands of them, men, women
and children, rush headlong into the deep water, and hundreds are
drowned. From Benares we went to Allahabad. Here the waters of
the Jumna unite with the Ganges. This is also considered a very
sacred place; the water from here is taken to all parts of Hindostan
in bottles, as holy water. It was here Lord Clive gained such a
decisive victory over the Great Mogul of Delhi, as secured Bengal to
the East India Company. From Allahabad, we proceeded to Cawnpore,
where we arrived on the fifteenth of October. Disembarking, we went
into tents, and soon after joined the camp waiting for us. I merely
rambled through this city to get some things at the bazaars. The
goods were all exposed to view without shop-windows, as at home. The
merchant sitting, tailor-fashion, on the boards. Of money changers
there was plenty; heaps of gold and silver coin on small tables. The
sugar dealers, or rather confectioners, had large coppers boiling,
making jillavies, a mixture of butter and sugar. There is also a
goodly number of bungalos and gardens, residences of rich merchants.
Early in the morning, generally at three o'clock, when the march of
troops commences, one is surprised at the number of animals required
for the several conveyances. Elephants and camels for tents and
baggage; bullock Hackerys for women and children. Married soldiers
are well provided for in India, a fund provided by Lord Clive allows
every woman five, and every child three rupees per month, almost
enough to keep them comfortable. The first day's march was over by
eight o'clock in the morning, when tents were pitched, and breakfast
prepared by black servants. After this, what time you don't want for
rest may be spent as one chooses. The weather being intensely hot,
we found shade under plenty of orange and mango trees, occasionally
issuing from cover to shoot pigeon, or chase monkeys. Birds of all
plumage filled the air with their beautiful notes; the mocking bird
was particularly favourable to us soldiers, as numbers of them
followed us. We were now on our march to Meerut, where the head
quarters of my regiment were stationed, and I felt more than anxious
till I joined them. On the fourth day from Cawnpore we halted under
a famous Banyan tree, which on some previous occasion had shaded
five thousand troops. This idea may seem preposterous; but when you
take into consideration the length of time it has been growing and
spreading, it seems simple enough, each branch on rising a certain
height, drops, takes root again, rises again, and again drops, and
so on for ages, until from the one parent root, branches and roots
covered acres of ground.
[Sidenote: Meerut--regiment--Captain Havelock.]
Meerut is at last reached on the 14th of November. This is a
frontier station. The military cantonments were extended on an
open plain three miles in length. The most beautiful barracks,
like villa residences. The English Church side by side with the
Theatre, standing between cavalry and infantry lines. Here I found my
regiment, and having acted as provost _en route_, I was introduced by
Captain Havelock--afterwards General--who came out with us, to his
brother Charles, who was adjutant of our regiment.
Now commenced my service in India in earnest. What was rumoured
in England proved here a fact, of an army being got ready for
Afghanistan. Captain Havelock left to join his regiment; all who had
known him, and experienced his kindness on board, and on the march to
this station, felt the parting much, as he was invariably kind and
very good to all his men.
[Illustration: (Vignette)]