THE KAIMANAWA MOUNTAINS.
Further plans--Across the plains--In memoriam--The Onetapu
Desert--Mamanui camp--Grilled _weka_--A heavy frost--The
Kaimanawas--Geological formation--A probable El Dorado--Reputed
existence of gold.
As we had now successfully accomplished the ascent of the two great
mountains, I determined to leave the tapued district as soon as
possible, and strike a south-easterly course across the Onetapu
Desert to the southern base of the Kaimanawa Mountains, in order to
examine the geological formation of that region. I had noticed when
examining the western banks of the Waikato River, that on its opposite
side, where the mountains rose in all their grandeur, the geological
aspect of the country was entirely different from that of the Rangipo
table-land, the geological formation of which was principally composed
of fluvial drift, with a deep superimposed stratum of pumice, and over
which again was a final stratum of volcanic earth, formed principally
by the decomposition of the trachytic rocks forming the numerous
volcanic cones which bounded the table-land on the west. Owing,
however, to the flooded state of the Waikato, it was impossible to
reach its opposite side, where the Kaimanawa Mountains rose in the form
of a stupendous wall. I therefore resolved to head the river at its
upper waters, in order to get into the Kaimanawa country in that way.
On the day following our ascent of Ruapehu, we started across the
plains in the direction indicated above, and as the day was fine we
rode leisurely along, coaxing our half-starved horses on their way by
occasional feeds from the luxuriant growth of native grasses which
covered that part of the Rangipo. In this portion of the plains there
was a great variety of native grasses, and among them were those known
to the natives as the _parakerake_ and _pekipeki_, while the tussock
grass grew in clumps often three feet in height. Dotted all over the
plain likewise was a curious spiked plant, which our horses carefully
avoided whenever they came in its way. This singular plant grew at
the bottom, in the form of a widespreading circular tuft, composed of
narrow sword-edged leaves, the ends of which were as pointed and as
sharp as a lancet. From the centre of the tuft rose a stem varying
from a foot to two feet in height, which bristled at the top with a
spike-like thorn, while clustering all over its sides were long thin
thorns, pointed, and as sharp as needles. So strong and sharp are the
thorns of this plant, that the natives often use them as spurs.
We had been told at Tokanu that at a certain point on these wide plains
if we struck a certain native track hard by a certain stream flowing
from the rugged gorges of Tongariro, we could see a pole which was
strictly _tapu_ in the eyes of the Maoris. When we came to the spot,
the pole was there in the form of a portion of a dead tree. Now, a
melancholy tale was attached to this singular relic. During the time
of the war, when the Hauhaus under Te Kooti carried fire and sword
among the loyal tribes of this part of the country, a native girl,
it is said, of singular beauty, was passing alone by this very spot,
when one of the rebel chief's followers approaching at the same time,
brutally attacked her, and having accomplished his villainous purpose,
cut her throat, and rode on his way. Even the very name of this man
is lost in oblivion, and his soul--well, never mind. When the girl's
relatives came to search for her they found her body, and taking off
her collaret, placed it on the pole, and tapued the place sacred to
her memory, and this pole still standing on the wild plains now forms
her only monument. But, strange to say, the collaret, rounded, tied
in a knot, and in form as perfect as if taken from the blood-stained
neck but yesterday, was likewise there, and Nature, as if anxious to
preserve this sad relic, had covered it with a coating of fine spiral
moss, which made it look not unlike one of those wreaths of immortelles
we sometimes see placed on Christian graves to invoke, as it were, the
blessings of Heaven. I made a sketch of this lonely monument, and when
the ravages of time shall have effaced it from all ken, these simple
words may serve to recall the memory of one who was loyal to her queen,
and who met death at a time when war and rapine swept over the land,
and when the white and the dark race fought with a deadly and cruel
hatred for the mastery of these fair and attractive regions.
The Onetapu Desert, or "desert of sacred sand," as its name implies,
forms one of the most curious features of this region. It stretches
from the eastern slope of Ruapehu to the banks of the Waikato River,
across the centre of the great table-land, and covers an area of
over fifty square miles. In summer it is parched and dried, and in
the winter months when the snows cover it, it is both dangerous and
difficult to traverse. As we neared this trackless waste, the rich
vegetation of the plains gradually died away, and gave place to the
stunted plants and shrubs which we had always found growing on the
lower scoria deposits. This vegetation did not cover the ground in
every direction, but grew in patches here and there, and often in a
very attractive way. The desert, at the surface, is composed entirely
of a deposit of scoria, with rounded stones and trachytic boulders
above, while, in some places, rise enormous lava ridges. Here and
there a trickling watercourse winds over it, but taken altogether it
is a dreary, monotonous expanse, which the superstitious minds of
the natives have peopled with _taniwhas_ and evil spirits. By its
formation, it would appear as if Ruapehu, when in a state of activity,
had distributed its showers of ashes and lava over this wide region,
and it would also appear that, at the period at which this extensive
deposition of scoria occurred, there must have been growing upon this
very spot an extensive forest similar to that now to be found on the
western side of the mountain, for, as we rode over the dreary expanse,
we found the remains of enormous trees which had been converted into
charcoal, as it were, at the time when the fiery ashes swept over
them, and which had since become exposed, as the upper surface was
denuded by the action of the water flowing down from the mountain.
Towards sundown we gained the upper waters of the Waikato, which here
wound across the desert in the form of a small stream coming from the
direction of Ruapehu. After crossing this we struck up towards the
Kaimanawa Mountains, to the Mamanui stream, where there was a deserted
Maori camping-place, and where we found excellent feed for our horses.
The spot where we pitched our camp stood at an elevation of 3727 feet
above the sea, on the banks of the Mamanui, which wound from the
mountains to form one of the many tributaries of the Waikato which
have their rise in these extensive ranges. The moon shone brightly
by the time we had pitched our tent, and the tall heights, towering
around us with their splendid vegetation, sheltered us from the chilly
blasts that swept across the plains, and, taken altogether, it was a
comfortable and pleasant spot in comparison to the weird mountains upon
which we had been recently camped.
This night we indulged in a delicacy which up to this moment we had
neither time nor opportunity to cook. When we rode out to make the
ascent of Tongariro we had the good fortune, as we then deemed it, to
knock over a small _weka_ or wood-hen. This diminutive bird Turner
seemed to look upon as a kind of sacred offering from the gods, and
he tied it to his saddle-bow, and kept a keen eye upon it, with the
view of making the final sacrifice whenever we should have time to
light a fire. We had now had it nearly six days in our possession, but
this was in reality the first opportunity we had had of cooking it.
We soon, however, had it grilling over our fire, and we ate it with
avidity, regretting the while that Providence had not provided us with
a full-grown bird in place of a mere fledgling. The _weka_ (_Ralus
Australis_) is very plentiful in the plains around Tongariro.
We passed a fairly comfortable night in this secluded spot, but it
was one of the coldest we had experienced. Before midnight the whole
country was covered with a thick white frost, and at four in the
morning the thermometer stood as low as 27°.
The Kaimanawa Mountains are situated in almost the very centre of the
island, with a general north-easterly and south-westerly bearing, and
attain to an elevation of about 6000 feet above the level of the sea.
Stretching across the great central table-land in an extent of about
eighty miles, their tall serrated peaks form a grand and beautiful
feature in the many natural wonders of the surrounding country, while
the primeval forests which clothe them to their summits are among the
finest in the country. From whatever point of view they are beheld,
they disclose the most delightful views, and when their pointed peaks
are covered with the winter snows they afford the most beautiful Alpine
scenery to be found in the North Island. Clothed everywhere with a
dense growth of vegetation, they tower one above the other in a series
of mountain terraces, whose stupendous sides are broken by enormous
gorges which form the outlets of innumerable streams, while winding
valleys open to the view the most romantic and attractive prospects.
It is, however, the geological formation of this extensive mountain
range, covering many hundreds of square miles, which is of especial
interest. Unlike the volcanic cones, which form one of the most
remarkable features of this division of the country, and which have
their origin in a trachytic formation, the rocks comprising the
Kaimanawa Mountains belong to the paleozoic order, and are composed
principally of clay slate with quartz veins, brownish semi-crystallized
sandstones, silicious schists, and diorites as intrusive rocks.
When, upon the day after our arrival at Mamanui, we followed up the
creeks where we had been camped, and ascended these mountains to a
height of 4000 feet, I found all these rocks _in situ_, but, owing to
the densely wooded nature of the country, it was only in the ravines
that the geological formation could be examined. The clay slates were
placed more or less vertically, by reason of the intrusion of the
diorite bars through their plane, while the quartz I found on the
slopes of the hills and in abundant quantities in the creeks, and
from the auriferous indications which I noticed on all sides, I much
regretted that, owing to the necessity to press on our journey, I was
prevented from examining this country more closely. I am, however,
firmly of opinion that this extensive range, which presents many
features in common with the Sierras of California, offers to the
geologist a rich field for research, and to the miner a probable El
Dorado where, I believe, great treasure will be brought to light in
years to come. It is more than likely that the whole of this extensive
mountain range will be found upon examination to be rich in all the
mineral products common to geological formations of a like kind, and
that not only gold but other minerals will be found.
It is likewise worthy of note that the natives of this district with
whom we afterwards came in contact assured us of the existence of gold
in these mountains, as likewise of a mineral which, by the description
they gave of it, I judged to be silver. Although it is impossible to
define by any theoretical course of reasoning what hidden treasures may
exist in the fastnesses of the Kaimanawas, there can be no doubt that
the whole region is well worthy an extended examination. The discovery
of a payable gold-field in this locality could not fail to confer a
material benefit upon the whole country. Situated as these mountains
are in the centre of the island, they are easily accessible from all
points; and if once the existence of remunerative auriferous deposits
were established, the spread of population would follow, and in this
way the vast and varied resources of an extensive portion of the colony
would be developed.