Tuberose.--Plant the bulbs in January in a mixture of sandy loam and
rotten dung, or leaf-mould, using a small pot for each bulb. Plunge
them in a hotbed, taking care that the temperature does not fall below
60 degrees, and withhold water until the foliage appears, when a
moderate amount should be given. When the pots are full of roots,
shift the plants into larger ones, and grow on in a house with a
uniform high temperature and moist atmosphere. For a succession of
bloom place the roots in a cold frame and cover with cocoanut fibre
until growth begins, then remove the fibre, water moderately, and
transfer the most forward plants to the conservatory. Bloom may be had
all the year round by planting in succession from September to June.
Tulips.--Drainage may be considered as the chief means of success in
the cultivation of these showy spring flowers. The soil they like best
is well-rotted turf cut from pasture land and mixed with a moderate
amount of sand, but they will thrive in any ground that is well
drained. The bulbs should be planted during October and November about
3 in. deep and 5 in. apart, either in lines or groups, and they retain
their bloom longest in a shady situation. As soon as the leaves begin
to decay the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and stored away, keeping
the colours separate. For pot-culture the single varieties are best.
Put three bulbs in a 5-in. pot and six in a 6-in. one, and treat in
the same manner as the Hyacinth. They may, if desired, be forced as
soon as the shoots appear. When required to fill vases, etc., it is
a good plan to grow them in shallow boxes, and transfer them when in
flower to the vases or baskets. By this method exactitude of height
and colouring is ensured. Tulips are divided into three classes: (1)
Roses, which have a white ground, with crimson, pink, or scarlet
marks; (2) Byblomens, having also a white ground, but with lilac,
purple, or black marks; and (3) Bizarres, with a yellow ground having
marks of any colour.