Rodgersia Podophylla.--A hardy perennial having immense bronze
foliage. It thrives best in a moist, peaty soil; flowers from May to
July, and may readily be increased either by seed or division. Height,
3 ft.
Rogiera Gratissima.--A pretty evergreen stove shrub, which is often
trained to a single stem so as to form a standard. It succeeds in
sandy loam and peat. It may be sunk in the flower-border during the
height of summer, but must be taken indoors before frost sets in.
Cuttings placed in sand under a hand-glass in heat will strike. It
flowers in June. Height, 3 ft.
Romneyi Coulteri.--This grand white-flowered Poppy Tree is quite
hardy, and will grow in any light, rich soil. It blooms in August and
September, and may be increased by seed or by division. Height, 4 ft.
Rose Campion.--A pretty hardy perennial which may be grown from seed
sown in autumn, choosing a sheltered site, or in March in a frame or
under a hand-glass, transplanting it in the autumn into a light, rich,
loamy soil. Height, 2 ft.
Rosemary (_Rosmarinus Officinalis_).--This hardy evergreen shrub
should occupy a dry and sheltered position. Its fragrant purple
flowers are produced in February. Cuttings of the ripened wood, if
planted in spring, will strike root freely. Height, 2 ft.
Roses.--A good, deep, loamy soil, well drained, but which retains a
certain amount of moisture, is the most suitable. The position should
be sheltered, yet open and exposed to the sun. The latter part of
October or November is the most favourable time for planting, but
it may be continued with safety until the commencement of March. A
fortnight before planting the holes should be dug out 1-1/2 or 2 ft.
deep, and plenty of old manure thrown in and trodden down. On this a
good layer of fine mould should be placed, so that the roots do not
come in contact with the manure. Great care must be taken not to
expose the roots to the cold air. When the ground is quite ready for
their reception dip the roots in a pail of water, then spread them out
carefully on top of the mould, fill in the earth, and tread it
firmly. If the plants are standards they require to be firmly staked.
Precaution is necessary not to plant too deeply, keeping them as near
as possible at the depth at which they were previously grown, in no
case exceeding 1 in. above the mark which the earth has left on the
stem. Three weeks after planting tread the earth again round the
roots. Pruning should be done in March, except in the case of those
planted in spring, when the beginning of April will be early enough.
Cut away all of the wood that is unripe, or exhausted and dead. Dwarf
growers should be cut back to within two or three buds of the previous
year's growth, but five or six eyes may be left on those of stronger
growth. The majority of climbing and pillar roses do not require to
be cut back, it being only necessary to take out the useless wood. In
pruning standards aim at producing an equally balanced head, which
object is furthered by cutting to buds pointing outwards. At the
first sign of frost the delicate Tea and Noisette Roses need to be
protected. In the case of standards a covering of bracken fern or
straw must be tied round the heads; dwarfs should have the soil drawn
up over the crowns, or they may be loosely covered by straw. Apply a
top-dressing of farm-yard manure to the beds before the frosts set in,
as this will both nourish and protect the roots. Fork it in carefully
in the spring. Cow manure is especially valuable for Tea Roses. After
the first year of planting most of the artificial manures may, if
preferred, be used; but nothing is better than farmyard stuff. If the
summer be dry, water freely in the evening. Roses may be propagated by
cuttings in the summer or autumn. The slips should be 5 or 6 in. long,
of the spring's growth, taken with 1 in. of the previous year's
wood attached. A little bottom-heat is beneficial. They may also be
increased by grafting or by separating the suckers. Keep a sharp
look-out for maggots in the spring, which will generally be
found where the leaves are curled up. These must be destroyed by
hand-picking. Green fly can be eradicated with tobacco wash. Mildew
may be cured by sprinkling the leaves with sulphur while dew is on
them.