Ramondia Pyrenaica.--A pretty dwarf perennial, suitable for moist
interstices of rock-work. It should be planted in a slanting position,
so that the roots, while absorbing plenty of moisture, will not rot
through being continually in stagnant water. Peat soil suits it best.
It may be increased by division in spring. If grown from seed it takes
two years before flowers are produced. During the height of summer it
is in full beauty.
Rampion.--The roots are used in cooking, and also for salads. For
winter use sow in April in rows 12 in. apart, covering the seeds
lightly with fine mould, and thin out to 4 in. apart. Sow at intervals
for a succession.
Ranunculus.--These prefer a good stiff, rather moist, but well-drained
loam, enriched with well-rotted cow-dung, and a sunny situation.
February is probably the best time for planting, though some prefer to
do it in October. Press the tubers (claws downwards) firmly into the
soil, placing them 2 or 3 in. deep and 4 or 5 in. apart. Cover them
with sand, and then with mould. Water freely in dry weather. Protect
during winter with a covering of dry litter, which should be removed
in spring before the foliage appears. They flower in May or June.
Seeds, selected from the best semi-double varieties, sown early in
October and kept growing during the winter, will flower the next
season. They may likewise be increased by off-sets and by dividing the
root. The claws may be lifted at the end of June and stored in dry
sand. The plants are poisonous. Height, 8 in. to 12 in.
Raphiolepis Ovata.--Beautiful evergreen shrubs, producing long spikes
of white flowers in June. A compost of loam, peat, and sand is their
delight. Cuttings will strike in sand under glass. Height, 4 ft.
Raspberries.--A rich, moist, loamy soil is most suitable for their
cultivation. Suckers are drawn by the hand from the old roots any time
between October and February, and set in groups of three in rows 6 ft.
apart. If taken in October, the young plants may be pruned early in
November. It is usual to cut one cane to the length of 3 ft., the
second one to 2 ft., and the third to within a few inches of the
ground. As soon as the year's crop is gathered, the old bearing shoots
are cut clean away, the young canes are drawn closer together, and at
the end of August the tops of the tall ones are pinched off. When the
leaves have fallen all the suckers are drawn out and the canes pruned
(about four being left to each root). The canes are then tied and
manure applied. About May they are, if necessary, thinned out again,
and the suckers that are exhausting both soil and plant removed. They
produce their fruit on one-year-old canes, which wood is of no further
use. The general way of training them is by tying the tops together,
or by training them in the shape of a fan on a south wall, but perhaps
the best way is to tic them about equal distances apart round hoops
supported by light sticks. Seed may be separated from the fruit,
dried, and sown early in February on a gentle hotbed. Prick off into
good rich mould, harden off by the middle of May, and plant in rich
soil. Train them and keep down suckers. When they are grown tall
pinch off the tops. Red Antwerp, Yellow Antwerp, Prince of Wales,
Northumberland Filbasket, Carter's Prolific, and White Magnum Bonum
are all good sorts.