Gourds.--Sow at the end of March or the beginning of April on a
slight hotbed; pot off when the plants are sufficiently advanced,
and transplant to the open border in June. They are well adapted for
arbours, trellis-work, or sloping banks. The following are among the
most ornamental:--Abobra Viridiflora, Benincasa Cerifera (Wax Gourd),
Bryonopsis Erythrocarpa, Coccinea Indica (scarlet fruit), Cucumis
Anguinus (Serpent Gourd), Cucumis Dipsaceus (Teasel Gourd), Cucumis
Dudaim (Balloon Gourd), Cucumis Erinaceus (Hedgehog Gourd), Cucumis
Grossularoides (Gooseberry Gourd), Cucumis Perennis, Cucurbita
Argyrosperma, Cucurbita Melopepo, Cyclanthera Explodens (Bombshell
Gourd), Cyclanthera Pedata, Eopepon Aurantiacum, Eopepon Vitifolius,
Lagenaria Clavata (Club Gourd), Lagenaria Enormis, Lagenaria Leucantha
Depressa, Lagenaria Leucantha Longissima, Lagenaria Plate de Corse,
Lagenaria Poire a Poudre, Lagenaria Siphon, Luffa Cylindrica, Luffa
Solly Qua, Melothria Scabra, Momordica Balsamina, Momordica Charantia,
Momordica Elaterium, Mukia Scabrella, Scotanthus Tubiflorus,
Trichosanthes Anguina, Trichosanthes Coccinea, Trichosanthes
Colubrina, and Trichosanthes Palmata.
Grafting.--The objects of Grafting are to bring a bush or tree into an
earlier state of bearing than it would do naturally; to produce good
fruit from an inferior plant; and to save space by putting dwarf
scions on to rampant-growing trees. By the process of uniting
strong-growing trees to those of a weaker nature their exuberance is
checked, and weaker ones are improved by being worked on those of
a stronger growth. Whatever form of Grafting is adopted, the inner
layers of the bark of the stock or tree on which the operation is
performed, must be brought into direct contact with the inner layers
of the bark of the branch which is grafted, or, as it is called,
the scion. This scion should be a branch of the early growth of the
previous year's wood, and should be in the same state of vegetation as
the stock. If the scion is in a more advanced state than the stock,
its growth may be stopped by cutting it off and burying it in the
earth under a north wall until the stock has advanced sufficiently in
growth. Grafting of all kinds is best done in March, when the sap is
flowing freely. Many methods of Grafting are adopted, the following
being the principal:--
Whip or Tongue Grafting is suitable for almost any description of
trees. Saw the stock off level at any desired height, then make a deep
upward slanting cut through the bark at the top 2 or 3 in. in length,
and in the middle of the cut turn the knife downwards and cut out a
thin wedge-shaped socket. Next cut the scion in a similar manner so
that it will fit exactly into the incision of the stock, bringing the
bark of each into direct contact. Bind it firmly in position, and
cover it over, from the top of the stock to the bottom of the scion,
with grafting wax or clay. When the scion and the stock are united,
which is demonstrated by the former making growth, remove the wax and
cut away all shoots that may be produced on the stock.
In the French mode of Grafting known as the Bertemboise, the crown of
the stock is cut at a long level, about 1 in. at the top being left
square, and an angular piece is cut away in which the scion is
inserted. It is then bound and waxed over.
Theophrastes or Rind Grafting is used where a tree has strong roots
but inferior fruit. The branches are cut off about 1-1/2 or 2 ft. from
the main stem. A sharp cut 2 or 3 in. in length is made down the bark
of the branches, and the lower parts of the scion, selected from a
superior tree, having been cut into tongues resembling the mouth-piece
of a flageolet, the bark of the branches is lifted with a knife, and
the tongues of the scions are slipped in, bound, and waxed.
Side Grafting is useful where it is desired to replenish the tree
with a fresh branch. A T-shaped cut is made in the stem of the tree,
extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal
sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it
is inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other
grafts.
Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice
varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger
growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark
is cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth,
and the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit
exactly. They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet)
is bound round the parts. The union may be completed by the following
spring, but it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the
point of union and the separation of the scion from the potted plant
until the second spring.
Grafting Wax (_Cobbetts_), etc.--Pitch and resin four parts each,
beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients, and
use when just warm. It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry
place.
Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds
caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless
the clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse
droppings.
Grapes.--The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and
changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of
success. Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable--one to
ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit. Nevertheless, the
highly ornamental foliage of the vine entitles it to a place on our
walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a
chance crop of fruit. The soil most suited to the growth of the vine
is a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quantity of crushed
chalk and half-inch bones. It should be given a south aspect, and be
liberally supplied with water in dry seasons. April is the best time
to plant it, spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the
surface of the soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure. Should
mildew set in, syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and
sulphur. To secure a continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old
rods each year as soon as the leaves fall, and train young shoots in
their places. Last year's shoots produce other shoots the ensuing
summer, and these are the fruit-bearers. One bunch of grapes is enough
for a spur to carry. Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the
bunches, and allow 1 ft. of rod to each pound of fruit. Tie or nail
the bunches to the trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves
that intercept light and air.
The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September. Cut a
notch at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes
above ground. It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in
length, of the last year's growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached,
taken the latter end of February. Plant these deep in the ground,
leaving one eye only above the surface. Both the Black Hamburgh and
Royal Muscadine ripen as well as any in the open.
It is under glass only that Grapes can be brought to perfection.
Here a night temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, with a rise of 5 or 10
degrees in the day, should be maintained, the walls and paths damped
once or twice a day, and the vine syringed frequently until it comes
into bloom, when syringing must cease, and a drier atmosphere is
necessary; the moisture being reduced by degrees. As the grapes ripen,
admit more air, and reduce the heat, otherwise the fruit will shrivel.
After gathering the grapes syringe the vine frequently to clear it
from spiders or dust, and keep the house cool to induce rest to the
plant. The fruit may be preserved for a long while in a good condition
by cutting it with about 1 ft. of the rod attached, and inserting the
cuttings in bottles of water in which a piece of charcoal is placed:
the bottles to be placed in racks nailed on to an upright post in any
room or cellar where an equable temperature of 45 or 50 degrees can be
kept up. The system of pruning adopted is that known as spur pruning
(_see_ "Pruning"). Mrs. Pearson is a very fine variety, and produces
very sweet berries; the Frontignan Grizzly Black and White are also
delicious.