AROUND AND ABOUT THE BAY
There are many villages large and small, around the Bay of Rio de
Janeiro, but few of them are worth the visiting. Nictheroy, however, a
twenty minutes’ ride across the bay, is an exception, for the ride is
pleasant and this city is the capital of the state of Rio de Janeiro.
The national capital is situated in a Federal District very similar to
the District of Columbia. Ferries run every few minutes, and the trip
is a pleasant diversion. The city contains some thirty thousand or
more inhabitants, but there is nothing grand or distinctive about it.
It has several public squares after the usual fashion, the streets are
fairly broad but badly paved, and some of the public buildings are quite
respectable. There is a good system of street railways, and a trip can be
made out to the rather picturesque suburb of Sacco do San Francisco, or
Itajahý, which is also on the shores of the bay. Perhaps the principal
reason that takes travellers there is to say that they have been in
one of the state capitals, for it is too near the larger and far more
attractive city to have much charm when compared with the other. There is
a good beach, and it is possible that at some time, perhaps “to-morrow,”
a thriving resort may be built up on that side of the blue bay of Rio de
Janeiro.
During the empire, because of the many and almost constant scourges of
yellow fever, the diplomatic corps became solicitous about their own
health and sought a more healthful residence. Receiving the consent
of their various governments, and the approval of the Emperor, a new
diplomatic residence was established at Petropolis, a two hours’ journey
from the capital. This is the only instance known to me where the
diplomatic representatives live elsewhere than in the capital of the
country to which they are accredited.
The journey to this diplomatic centre is at the present time a combined
rail and steamer journey, although within a very short time, and perhaps
by the time this work appears, it will be possible to make the journey
by rail in a little more than half the time now necessary. If one has
the time, however, the combination journey is preferable, because it
affords a delightful journey across the blue waters of the bay, past
the Fiscal Island with its imposing edifice, near a number of other
islands to the Mauá landing where a connection is made with the oldest
railway in the republic. The first rails of this line, which is now a
part of the Leopoldina System, were laid more than a half century ago.
Almost immediately after entering the train the ascent begins, for it
is a climb of nearly a thousand metres to this other capital of the
country. As the train ascends many new and varying glimpses are caught
of the island-studded bay, and even of the city of Rio many miles away,
with Corcovado and Tijuca in the background. The cloud effects vary with
almost every trip. At times almost the entire bay is seen, and then
again, only fleeting glimpses are visible, as you seem to be looking
down upon a bed of billowy clouds. When the steepest part of the road is
reached the train is divided into small sections, and the upward ascent
is aided by the cog system, although very powerful locomotives are used.
A maximum grade of fifteen per cent. is reached in one or two places,
which is a very steep climb indeed, and you feel like holding yourself
in your seat. Narrow valleys, or rather passes, are traversed and there
is some cultivation, but the most of the way is rather a mass of trailing
vines and great, branching ferns. Blossoming vines and trees add beauty
to the scene, and immense trees loaded with orchids look down upon you in
a tantalizing way; detached rocks weighing thousands of tons are poised
on the edge of cliffs, and show the glacial effects in these passes.
Sometimes the brown and grim rocks rise above you like a mighty wall a
thousand or more feet high, as if nature had prepared a natural fort or
a gigantic toboggan slide ready for use. The little mountain streams had
become swift torrents, when I passed over this road, from the effects of
a severe storm that had just broken on these hills. The air becomes much
cooler as the elevation increases. At last the Alta da Serra, the top
of the mountain, is reached, and from there it is an easy ride down to
Petropolis nestling between lofty peaks.
Being the headquarters of a score or more representatives of the world’s
powers, Petropolis is an important city. Furthermore, during the hottest
season, it is the fashionable summer resort of Brazilian society, and
the wealth and gayety of the capital is transferred to this city. From
a small agricultural settlement it has grown into a social centre, an
educational centre and the site of a number of cotton mills, which
are located here because of the abundant water power. The scenery
about Petropolis is beautiful, and affords a number of fine drives and
horseback jaunts, which are the favourite recreation of the diplomats.
It is a combination of the temperate and tropical zones. Your hothouse
plants all grow out-of-doors. Rhododendrons are as large as wheat
shocks, and the azaleas are so large they do not look natural. Palms are
omnipresent, and the orange with its golden fruit ornaments almost every
yard.
The last Emperor, Dom Pedro II., had a beautiful home here which is now
used as a young ladies’ seminary. There are also a number of other good
schools, among which is a school for girls under the auspices of the
Methodist Episcopal Church South. It is situated on the top of a hill
above the city. The rooms have lofty ceilings eighteen feet high, its
bathroom is as large as the average living-room, and in every way it
resembles the palace which it once was, rather than a school building.
Yet as one looks around at the American desks, the blackboards, maps,
etc., on the walls, the school stamp is readily seen.
The social season lasts from December to May, the Brazilian summer, and
during that time the social life is gay, but it is rather dull the rest
of the year. The President, and most of his ministers, spend these months
here, and Petropolis thus becomes the summer capital. There are many fine
homes of Brazilian families, and some of the diplomatic representatives
occupy showy quarters. The home of the American Ambassador is a
delightful and charming place. The air is remarkably cool, especially in
the evening, even when Rio is sweltering. It is quite likely that the
official residences of the diplomats will be changed to Rio at some time
in the future, since the sanitary conditions have been so improved, and
yellow fever is no longer found there, except in an occasional sporadic
case such as might occur at some of our own Gulf ports.
[Illustration: CLUSTERS OF BAMBOOS IN THE JARDIM BOTANICO.]
There are many notable botanical gardens in the world, but there is only
one, in the general consensus of opinion, which is superior to that of
Rio de Janeiro, and it is in Buitenzorg, Java. To the northern traveller
every park in Rio is a sort of botanical garden, because of the many
and new varieties of plants, but a visit to the famous Jardim Botanico,
which is reached by one of the “bonds” that start from the Avenida Hotel,
is a revelation. The route leads out through a number of narrow streets.
At one place a branch line runs to Leme by a tunnel through one of the
hills, where a pretty stretch of beach may be seen. It has become quite a
favourite resort as well as residence place, and is worth a visit.
Continuing the journey the car passes by a small lake, called Lago
Ridrigo de Freitas, which is a fresh water lake, although separated from
the sea by only a narrow stretch of land. There are some interesting
old country-houses and modern villas, and a number of cotton factories
with their rows of workingmen’s houses built on the community plan. Many
fine glimpses of Tijuca, the Two Brothers and Corcovado are obtained
along the way. At last the avenue of palms grows nearer, the car stops
before a gateway of recent construction, and the famous gardens have
been reached. Before one’s vision extends a magnificent avenue of lofty
royal palms of even height. This avenue, composed of one hundred and
fifty palms, set at equal distances apart, and making a green arch
almost a hundred feet above ground, makes an imposing picture like a
great colonnade, with their white trunks. As you look up the avenue you
see two gigantic walls of gray wood, solidly roofed by huge green tufts.
It is a living arborescent gallery, enclosing a path about twenty feet
wide with a neatly gravelled walk. About half-way across is a fountain
in the centre of the avenue, and here is another avenue of palms which
runs at right angles to the other, but this avenue is far less imposing
than the one just described. The contrast between the lofty palms and
some of the pygmy shrubs and flowers is most striking. In one part
of the gardens still stands a single palm, a tall, slender shaft one
hundred and twenty-five feet in height, which is called the “mother of
all the palms.” It was planted in 1808, the year of the foundation of
this garden, with elaborate ceremony by the Portuguese regent, and from
the seeds of this palm have been grown all the other royal palms in this
garden, so it is said. A tablet has been placed on this palm bearing a
statement of this fact.
Another feature which is most interesting is the profusion of bamboos,
which are found in dense clusters, and also in shady avenues, where the
tops are so intertwined that it is impossible for the sun to penetrate
through. One begins to appreciate the beauties of the graceful bamboo
when seen under such advantageous conditions. Sometimes an avenue is
lined for some distance with similar trees, then with others; sometimes
with one species on one side of the walk and an entirely different
species on the other side; again they are in clumps all alike or all
different, an endless variety in grouping. Fine specimens of the rubber
trees are to be seen, and one can get a good idea of this tree which
yields such a valuable article of commerce to the world of to-day. The
clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and other spice-bearing trees, which are many
decades old, may be seen, as well as specimens of the tea plant. The “cow
tree,” which secretes a fluid that resembles milk, and a tree which, upon
being tapped, pours forth a stream of pure, cold water may both be found.
It will not be necessary for one to travel up the Amazon to see the
vegetation that grows there, for specimens of almost every species may
be found here. Monster trees from the Amazon country which overtop even
the lofty royal palms, and reach a height of from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred feet, grow here luxuriantly. Trees with great buttresses,
which look like strained muscles, and others, with gigantic vines
clinging to them, which are slowly sapping the life out of the friendly
tree, grow here, just as they do in the primeval forests. Parasites of
every kind may be seen on the trunks, and in the angles formed by the
limbs. Some of the trees are almost covered with these parasitic growths.
Orchids, which would be almost priceless in the markets of New York, are
found blooming here amidst the wild tangle of vines. Specimens of the
gigantic lily, called the Victoria Regis, a native of Brazil, and whose
leaves measure from ten to twenty feet in diameter, grow in the waters of
this same garden. There are also little glimpses of almost virgin forest,
that may be seen in the two thousand acres of this treasure-house of
botanical specimens. The many shades of green are varied by the colours
of the poincetta and other flowers, and in and through all flit birds
of many hues, swift flying humming birds and monstrous butterflies. The
researches which have been made by the various learned directors of these
botanical gardens have proven of inestimable value to the scientific
world.
One soon discovers that Rio has more than the seven hills which were
boasted by Rome, for there are three times that number that look down
upon the bay. A number of these rounded knolls are within the borders
of the city itself, and the narrow, winding streets crawl up to the
very summit. Others are surmounted by a few houses, while the sides of
the hills simply display their red slope to the city. But it is to the
suburbs that one must go for the finest views of the city and surrounding
country. One of the favourite trips is to Tijuca, the summit of which
is almost reached by an electric line, and many of the wealthier people
have their summer or all-the-year-round homes on its slopes. As the road
climbs up to the summit, many beautiful views are obtained of the scenery
surrounding Rio. It is a view of peaks, and valleys and ocean, for very
little of the city is visible. The road passes through dense forests, so
that one is constantly sheltered from the fierce sun.
Sylvan pathways are flanked with beautiful plants, shrubs and flowers.
Leaping cascades are set in veritable flower gardens, and natural
labyrinths and grottos abound. The highest point is nearly fourteen
hundred feet above sea level. This route is now a favourite automobile
drive also, but is not safe to make after heavy rains because of the
narrow roadway in many places.
It is, however, to Corcovado that one goes for a magnificent view
of Rio and the bay of the same name. This famous hunchback mountain
almost overshadows the city and the climb up affords views of dazzling
magnificence. It is a great granite cone, precipitous on all sides save
one, and an electric line, which follows this slope, now takes the
traveller almost to the very summit. Leaving the station in the city,
the road first runs over the old and well-preserved Carioca Aqueduct
where, for a few blocks, the car runs along high above the red-tiled
roofs of the capital city. Then it begins the climb up along the side
of the mountain. Now one obtains a view of the bay, and again one looks
out over the city to the Serra da Mar mountains in the distance; again
it is Tijuca, or the peak of Tingue, that dominates the horizon. The
abandoned aqueduct follows the bends of the road and has been broken in
many places, for new water pipes now carry the water supply from the
original source. An old and famous convent, Santa Theresa, is seen, where
husbands used to place their wives for safekeeping when departing on
a military expedition. Past hotels, villages and showy private homes
the road winds and twists. Finally the line changes to the rack system,
as the grade becomes more steep, and at last, after a climb for a few
minutes up steps hewed out of the solid rock, the little pavilion is
reached that crowns the mountain’s summit. Here beautiful views meet the
gaze of the traveller in every direction; mountains on one side, the
sea and beautiful bay on the other. On a clear day a panorama of fifty
square miles may be seen with the unaided eye. Sheer precipices of more
or less bare rock extend down for a distance of fifteen hundred feet or
more. A stone merely dropped over the crowning walls would descend to the
plains below. It is to the bay that one will turn with most interest.
There, in the distance, is the seemingly narrow channel through which
all boats must pass on their way to the city. Then nearer to the city is
the famous Sugar Loaf, with its curious outline. The blue waters of the
bay studded with numerous small islands, the curved shores, the white
streaks which mark the cities, and the broad white line, which indicates
the Avenida Central and the Beira Mar, acquire a new meaning, and become
photographed upon one’s memory in indelible colours; it is then one
fully realizes that he is gazing upon one of the most beautiful panoramas
that nature has prepared for the delectation of mankind.