HANOVERIAN PERIOD.
A change of dynasty brought with it no amelioration of manners. The
fatal permission to set up distilleries, which was granted after
the Revolution of 1688, and which was not withdrawn by William, was
encouraged by the Legislature in the reign of the first George. The
consequence was natural: distilleries multiplied, and drink was sold
so cheap that unrestrained indulgence prevailed. The condition of
things has been ably recorded by Mr. Lecky.[206] It was not till about
1724 that the passion for gin-drinking infected the masses of the
population, and spread with the violence of an epidemic.
Small as is the place which this fact occupies in English
history, it was probably, if we consider all the consequences
that have flowed from it, the most momentous in that of the
eighteenth century--incomparably more so than any event in the
purely political or military annals of the country. The average
of British spirits distilled, which is said to have been only
527,000 gallons in 1684, had risen in 1727 to 3,601,000. Physicians
declared that in excessive gin-drinking a new and terrible source
of mortality had been opened for the poor. The grand jury of
Middlesex declared that much the greater part of the poverty, the
murders, the robberies of London, might be traced to this single
cause. Retailers of gin were accustomed to hang out painted boards
announcing that their customers could be made drunk for a penny,
dead drunk for twopence, and have straw for nothing; and cellars
strewn with straw were accordingly provided, into which those who
had become insensible were dragged, and where they remained till
they had sufficiently recovered to renew their orgies.
What preventive measures had soon to be taken, we shall learn later on.
But the home distilleries were not the only bane. In consequence of the
heavy duty to which foreign spirits were subjected, the smuggling trade
began to be brisk. Rum, brandy, and hollands were brought over from
the Channel Islands in small barrels, and were either landed at once
or sunk in rafts to be taken up when convenient. The smuggling trade
threw into the country immense quantities of spirits. Indeed ale and
beer were almost superseded by spirits and water, or ‘grog,’ as it then
began to be called.
The origin of the term ‘grog’ may interest, and is as follows:--The
British sailors had always been accustomed to drink their allowance
of brandy or rum clear, till Admiral Vernon ordered those under his
command to mix it with water. The innovation gave offence to the
sailors, and for a time rendered the commander unpopular. The admiral
at that time wore a grogram coat, for which reason they nicknamed him
‘Old Grog’--hence by degrees the mixed liquor that he ordered obtained
universally the name of ‘grog.’
The brewing of _porter_ began about the year 1722. It is a drink
which chiefly differs from beer by being made with higher dried
malt. It was then the common practice in taverns to call for a pot
of _half-and-half_, meaning half ale and half twopenny, or sometimes
an equal portion of ale, beer, and twopenny, which was called _three
threads_. To avoid the trouble of drawing these liquors from their
respective casks, a person named Harwood formed the plan of brewing
a drink that would at once yield the flavour of these combined
ingredients. He effected his object, calling the beverage ‘entire,’
or _entire butt_, because it was taken from one butt or vessel. And
inasmuch as it was purchased by porters and such like persons, it
became ever afterwards distinguished by the name of _porter_.
The drink called _saloop_ came into vogue at this time. Reide’s
coffee-house, in Fleet Street, was one of the first houses in which it
was sold. Called also _salep_, and _salop_; it was a greasy-looking
beverage, sold much on stalls in the early morning. It was prepared
from a powder made of the root of the _Orchis mascula_, and from
the green-winged meadow orchis. Salep was long imported from the
Levant, till it was discovered that our native plants could supply
it, specially the early purple orchis. It used, like porter, to be a
favourite drink of porters, coal-heavers, &c. It is said to contain
more nutritious matter in proportion to its bulk than any other known
root: an ounce of salep was thought to be support for a man for a
day. It is still much used in the East. In Hindoostanee it is called
_salab-ee-misree_, in Persian _sahleb_. In the present century it has
been superseded by coffee-barrows; but Charles Lamb has left some
account of this drinkable, which he says was of all preparations the
most grateful to the stomachs of young chimney-sweeps.[207]
Ales commonly became known by the name of the _district_ that produced
them--e.g. _Dorset_ beer, _Oxford_ ale. Thus, John Byrom writes:--
_May 18, 1725._--I found the effect of last night’s drinking that
foolish _Dorset_, which was pleasant enough, but did not at all
agree with me, for it made me very stupid all day.[208]
_Oxford Ale_ was the subject of a panegyric written by Warton in
1720--and a panegyric from such a man would be, in the opinion of many,
a boon of immortality.
The drinking at this time has already been spoken of as an epidemic.
Wine was necessary on all occasions. The _marriage_ ceremony was
incomplete without it, as is abundantly evident from contemporary
verse. More than one ridiculed the notion so prevalent, that
Wine must seal the marriage-bands.
But the Church had long since sanctioned a belief in its spell. The
Sarum Missal had taught that the bridal cup must be blessed by the
priest:--
Post missam, panis et vinum, vel aliud bonum potabile, in vasculo
proferatur.
And so the hallowing of wine and sops was usual from the court to the
cottage.
_Burials_ were imperfect without the cup. M. Misson, in his
_Observations_, notes:--
Butler, the keeper of the Crown and Sceptre Tavern in St. Martin’s
Lane, told me that there was a tun of red port drunk at his wife’s
burial, besides mulled white wine.--No men ever go to women’s
burials, nor women to men’s, so that there were none but women at
the drinking of Butler’s wine. Such women in England will hold it
out with the men, when they have a bottle before them, as well as
upon the other occasion, and battle infinitely better than they.
The number of _public-houses_ was excessive. In 1725 a report from a
committee of Middlesex magistrates stated that at that period there
were in the metropolis, exclusive of the City of London and Southwark,
6,187 houses and shops wherein ‘geneva, or other strong waters,’ were
sold by retail. The population was then about 700,000. In some cases
every seventh house was employed in the sale of intoxicants.
We get a life-like picture of the times from Daniel Defoe; and if it be
objected that his writing is fiction, we reply with Thackeray that the
fiction carries a greater amount of truth in solution than the volume
which purports to be all true. On the subject of drink amongst _women_,
and drink as a medicine, what can be more touching than the following
from his _Life of Colonel Jack_?--
The hero, Colonel Jack, is giving an account of his third wife:--
I was infinitely satisfied with my wife, who was, indeed, the
best-humoured woman in the world, and a most accomplished
beautiful creature--indeed, perfectly well bred, and had not
one ill quality about her; and this happiness continued without
the least interruption for about six years. But I at last had a
disappointment of the worst sort even here. She caught cold, and
grew very sickly. In being so continually ill and out of order, she
very unhappily got a habit of drinking cordials and hot liquors.
Drink, like the devil, when it gets hold of any one, though but
a little, goes on by little and little to their destruction; so
in my wife, her stomach being weak and faint, she first took this
cordial, then that--till, in short, she could not live without
them; and from a drop to a sup, from a sup to a dram, from a dram
to a glass, and so on to two, till at last she took, in short, to
what we call drinking.
As I likened drink to the devil in its gradual possession of
the habits and person, so it is yet more like the devil in its
encroachment on us, where it gets hold of our senses. In short, my
beautiful, good-humoured, modest, well-bred wife, grew a beast, a
slave to strong liquor, and would be drunk at her own table, nay,
in her own closet by herself, till she lost her beauty, her shape,
her manners, and at last her virtue.
Oh! the power of intemperance! And how it encroaches on the best
disposition in the world; how it comes upon us gradually and
insensibly, and what dismal effects it works upon our morals,
changing the most virtuous, regular, well-instructed, and
well-inclined tempers into worse than brutal! Never was a woman
more virtuous, sober, modest, and chaste, than my wife. She never
so much as desired to drink anything strong. It was with the
greatest entreaty that I could prevail with her to drink a glass or
two of wine, and rarely, if ever, above one or two at a time; even
in company she had no inclination to it. Not an immodest word ever
came out of her mouth, nor would she suffer it in any one else in
her hearing without resentment.
But during her illness and weakness, her nurse pressed her,
whenever she found herself faint, and a sinking of her spirits, to
take this cordial, and that dram, till it became necessary to keep
her alive, and gradually increased to a habit, so that it was no
longer her physic but her food. Her appetite sunk and went quite
away, and she ate little or nothing, but she came at last to a
dreadful height, that, as I have said, she would be drunk in her
dressing-room before eleven o’clock in the morning, and, in short,
at last was never sober.
Let any one judge of my case now; I, that for six years thought
myself the happiest man alive, was now the most miserable
distracted creature. As to my wife, I loved her well and pitied her
heartily. I almost locked her up, and set people over her to take
care of her; but her health was ruined, and in about a year and a
half she died.
Rightly did the poet Gay in his _Court of Death_ make Death give the
palm to _intemperance_ amongst the claimant diseases:--
Merit was ever modest known.
What, no physician speak his right!
None here! but fees their toil requite.
Let then Intemperance take the wand,
Who fills with gold their zealous hand:
You, Fever, Gout, and all the rest--
Whom wary men as foes detest--
Forego your claims. No more pretend;
Intemperance is esteemed a friend;
He shares their mirth, their social joys,
And as a courted guest destroys.
The charge on him must justly fall,
Who finds employment for you all.
Amongst the many who shortened their days through excess, must be
mentioned the name of Thomas Parnell. Dr. Johnson, in his _Lives of the
Poets_, observes:--
Pope represents him as falling into intemperance of wine after
Queen Anne’s death, in consequence of disappointed ambition. That
in his later life he was too much of a lover of the bottle is not
denied; but I have heard it imputed to a cause more likely to
obtain forgiveness from mankind, the untimely death of a darling
son; or, as others tell, the loss of his wife, who died 1712.
The latter is probably the true solution. He had married a woman of
great beauty, Miss Anne Minchin, who died soon after that event,
and grief probably preyed upon his fitful spirits, and led him into
intemperance. He died before he was forty. Well for him had he imitated
the character drawn in his exquisite poem _The Hermit_:--
The great vain man who fared on costly food,
Whose life was too luxurious to be good;
Who made his ivory stands with goblets shine,
And forced his guests to morning draughts of wine;
Has, with the cup, the graceless custom lost,
And still he welcomes, but with less of cost.
The most advanced exponent of the conviviality of the time was William
Congreve, at one time commissioner of wine licences. His comedies are
steeped in vice. Congreve’s comic feast (says Thackeray) flares with
lights, and round the table, emptying their flaming bowls of drink, and
exchanging the wildest jests and ribaldry, sit men and women, waited
on by rascally valets and attendants--perhaps the very worst company
in the world. To him (says the same author) the world seemed to have
no moral at all. His ghastly doctrine seemed to be that we should eat,
drink, and be merry when we can, and go to the deuce (if there be one)
when the time comes!
The experience of the self-made Franklin is very suggestive as to the
drinking habits of working men in London 160 years ago. For from the
habits of printers one may infer the habits of other craftsmen.
When the famous Dr. Franklin was a printer’s boy in England--he came to
England in 1724 or 1725--he found all his companions in the printing
office drank five pints of porter daily at their work, and one of them
even six. He was himself a water-drinker, but could not get any of them
to see his argument ‘that bread contained more materials of strength
than beer, and that it was only corn in the beer that produced the
strength in the liquid.’
Now, as it is quite clear that, if these printing ‘prentices drank five
pints of porter at their work, they would have extra drink out of work
hours, we have in this anecdote an appalling picture of the drinking in
England 160 years ago. What working man now _averages_ five pints per
diem?[209]
A useful little work was published in 1725, entitled _The
Publick-House-keeper’s Monitor_. The author prefaces, that the reigning
vices of the age make it a duty to consider and use any practicable
methods to put a stop to ‘that deluge of Impiety which overflows
almost this whole nation.’ He complains that there are _too many_ of
these houses which enjoy ‘a legal allowance,’ that _many_ ought to be
suppressed, but that it is persistently urged
that they are beneficial to the Publick; that they raise the
Revenues of the Crown, and must therefore be supported in
Complaisance to the Government. So far have Political Motives in
this, as well as many other cases, got the better of religious
ones; the Almighty must be serv’d last, if at all: And too many
of the Substitutes of an Earthly Power, are apt to forget whose
Vicegerent he is, and consequently from whom originally they
derive their Authority, which would discover to them to whom they
principally owe their Duty.
For indeed the same Argument, which prevails for the allowing of
so many publick Houses, must, and, I fear, too often does prevail
for the Neglect of a careful Inspection into the Management of
them, and for a Connivance at the many Irregularities committed in
them; ‘twould be a Means of sinking the Publick Revenues, if they
were strictly confin’d to the Observance of those Laws, which were
made for good Purposes. And what does all this amount to, but that
_Cæsar_ must have his Due, with a _non obstante_ that the Almighty
is defrauded?
He then proceeds to discuss the legitimate uses of taverns:--
The First Use of Publick-Houses is, to refresh hungry or weary
Travellers; to receive those, whose Time or Strength permits them
not to go farther, and to furnish them with such Lodging and
Provision, that being recruited, they may be the better able to
proceed in their Journey.
But such houses are too numerous:
Instead of their being too few, there are upon most Roads
abundantly too many Houses of Reception; so many, that they not
only destroy one another’s lawful and honest Maintenance, but lie
like so many Snares in the way of Travellers. There are but few
Parts of this Kingdom, if any, where Market-Towns are not near
enough together, to serve all the Ends and Purposes of Publick
Houses; and I may say, there are but few, if any, Market-Towns,
which are not greatly over-stock’d with them. However, as to
the Usefulness of them in general, let it suffice to observe,
that where they stand conveniently situated, and are wisely and
honestly manag’d, they are undoubtedly a very great Advantage to a
Nation.
Another use, he tells us, is to receive and provide for those who live
in the same place and who are not housekeepers themselves, but who,
being sojourners, journeymen, or servants, find it a great conveniency
to repair to such houses for their meals.
Then again they are useful (he urges) to receive persons who meet
together
upon making Contracts or Bargains in the Way of Commerce; and
whether this be done at common and ordinary Times, or at the more
publick and stated Seasons of Fairs and Markets; or lastly, whether
the publick Business of the Nation, or the more private Affairs of
Lordships, Parishes, &c., do require the Meeting together of many
Persons; so that the most convenient Places for these are generally
esteemed such Houses as I am treating of. However, this may be
affirm’d of them all in general, that the Design of them is to be
useful; and that their Usefulness consists in their being duly
and regularly kept, according to the several Laws of the Nation,
provided for that purpose, and founded upon the necessities and
Conveniences of the People.
He proceeds to lay down stated rules to be observed by such persons as
keep taverns. He urges upon them first of all, personal sobriety, a
strict regard to chastity, a scrupulous regard to honesty, that every
one have goods, in quantity and quality, according to the value of
their money. He exposes fearlessly the injustice of the
high Rents, to which Publick-Houses are generally advanced, so
as very often to exceed double the Rents of private ones of the
same real Goodness. This tempts the Land-lords of Houses to let
them for that Purpose; and this tempts, and, as they will probably
urge, obliges the Tenants, by some Means or other, to make more
than ordinary Gains upon their Guests; but surely neither of them
consider what they are about; how they jointly conspire to carry
on a Trade of Iniquity, and are Partakers of each other’s Sins. He
that lets his House for a publick one, only because he can thereby
advance his Rent, is not aware how deeply he is concern’d in all
the Wickedness that is consequent thereupon; and he who gives above
the just Value of an House upon the same Account, does not regard
how many Tricks and Frauds, what Impositions and Extortions, what
Allowance of Wickedness and Debauchery, what a continued Scene of
Iniquity, in short, he will be tempted to go through, in Order
to discharge so heavy a burthen of expences, and yet to maintain
himself and his family.
Secondly, he urges that the landlord should avoid and decline every
thing that may encourage intemperance.
The World is indeed sufficiently inclin’d to Sensuality of all
Sorts, and Multitudes do frequent Publick-Houses, especially with
a previous Purpose and Design of committing Excess. But even
those, who design it not, are often betray’d into it by the Arts
and Contrivances of them, who are to be Gainers by it, by drawing
them on from one Quantity to another, by helping ‘em to Companions
that will set forward Intemperance, or by doing it themselves; but
especially by giving Credit to those of the meaner Sort, who must
otherwise be sober upon Necessity.
‘Tis surprizing to observe, what Scores a Sot shall be allow’d
to contract at some Houses for Liquor, who would not be trusted
for half the Sum by any of his Neighbours, to provide Bread for
his Family; one, who thus reduces them to a Necessity of begging,
stealing, or perishing, whilst he riotously consumes what might
preserve them from all; but this he finds Means to do, through the
Encouragement of those who have so little love for their neighbours
that they care not how many families they starve to support their
own.
The little book is thoroughly worthy to be reprinted. Would that every
one engaged in ‘the trade’ would lay its maxims to heart!
About this time was published a guide-book, under the title of
_Vade-mecum of Malt-worms_, containing a list of all the ale-houses
in London, &c. Some of these, says Wright, in his _Caricature History
of the Georges_, under the name of _mug-houses_, became the resort of
small societies or clubs of political partisans. Some of these were
the scenes of terrible party turbulence.
But we cannot leave the first Hanoverian reign without noticing another
treatise much needed--quite as much--viz. that of Dr. Peter Browne,
Bishop of Cork, who in 1716 wrote _A Discourse of Drinking Healths_.
By this time the abuse of the practice of _toasting_ had become a
national disgrace.
The way in which anything or anybody that one drank a health to,
came to be called a _toast_ has baffled derivation hunters of all
degrees, and we are no wiser to-day than we were in 1709, when Isaac
Bickerstaffe, in the twenty-fourth number of the newly-established
_Tatler_, attempted to settle the matter by saying how, at Bath, in
the time of Charles II., a celebrated beauty happened to be in the
Cross-Bath, and out of the crowd of her admirers who were in the
room, one of them took from her bath a cup of the water in which the
lady was standing and drank her health to the company. Another of her
admirers who was present, being half intoxicated, instead of pledging
or drinking in response to the sentiment, announced his attention of
jumping into the water and carrying off the bather, swearing that
though he liked not the liquor, yet he would have _the toast_. He was
opposed in his resolution, yet this whim gave foundation to the present
honour which is due to the lady we mention in our liquor, who has
ever since been called a toast. It is far more likely that, as Ellis
observes, the use of the word on this occasion was a _consequence_ of
its previous employment for a like purpose, and not the cause of its
being adopted. It is probable that _toast_ came to be used in the sense
it is stated to have been by the bath gallant, gradually, at first
meaning a mere material relish or improvement to a glass of liquor,
and afterwards getting to be applied to the ‘sentimental relish,’ or,
as Sheridan truly calls it, the ‘excuse for the glass.’ Toasted bread
formed a favourite addition to English drinks so early as the sixteenth
century, and in the cups of sack and punch, brown toasts frequently
floated at the top. In Wyther’s _Abuses Stript and Whipt_ (published
1618) mention is made, as has been already noticed, of a draught ‘that
must be spiced with a nut-browne tost.’
Hall states that there were some who drank healths upon their knees;
some put their own blood into their drink and then drank a health to
the king. So that the young Hectors not only cultivated habits of
barbarity, but also linked themselves with blasphemy. But there was one
other way of drinking healths still to be told, a piece of unparalleled
tomfoolery--that of toasting a lady in some nauseous decoction. When
this fashion was popular, two students at Oxford were each enamoured
of the reigning belle of that sober University, and, as a test of the
relative depth of their devotion, they applied themselves to toasting
her in the manner we have mentioned. One, determined to prove that his
love did not stick at trifles, took a spoonful of soot, mixed it with
his wine, and drank off the mixture. His companion, determined not to
be outdone, brought from his closet a phial of ink, which he drank,
exclaiming, ‘Io triumphe and Miss Molly.’ These crackbrained young
men also esteemed it a great privilege to get possession of any great
beauty’s shoe, in order that they might ladle wine out of a bowl down
their throats with it, the while they drank to the ‘lady of little
worth’ or the ‘light-heeled mistress’ who had been its former wearer.
Is there any wonder that Dr. Peter Browne spoke out? He strongly
condemned the practice on theological, moral, and common-sense grounds,
of opinion that it had its origin in Pagan usages, though he is vague
as to the particular custom out of which it arose. He classifies the
various acceptations of a _health_ under six heads:--(1) When a curse
or imprecation is intended upon the person drinking, or (2) upon any
other person; (3) when one drinks in honourable remembrance of absent
living friends; or (4) by way of wishing others health and prosperity;
or (5) in token of our respect and good-will to another, or approbation
of any affair; and (6) as an outward indication of our loyalty. All
such health-drinking, the learned prelate urges, is incompatible with
the duty of good Christians, whom he exhorts to suppress the practice.
He also cites an interesting formula used by the Jews in drinking,
which is the first instance, to my knowledge, of a curse being intended
instead of an expression of good-will; the words, upon the authority of
Buxtorf, meaning, in their ordinary signification, ‘much good may it
do you;’ but the utterer thereof, by a kind of mental reservation or
adaptation, implied a curse--nay, as many curses as the letters stand
for, viz. 165.[210]
From incidental notices we discover how very exceptional was the
absence of toasts. Thus, in a description of home life at Badminton, we
read:--
If the gentlemen chose a glass of wine the civil offers were made
to go down into the vaults, which were very large and sumptuous,
or servants, at a sign given, attended with salvers, &c., and many
a brisk went round about; but no sitting at table with tobacco and
healths, as the common use is.[212]
But the full extent of the unbridled excess of the period can best be
estimated from a survey of the legislative enactments of the reign of
the second George. They are worthy of careful consideration.
In the second year of this reign such a duty was placed upon spirits
as to be nearly tantamount to a prohibition of their retail sale. A
duty of 20_l._ was imposed on the spirit retail licence, which for
the first time was ordered to be renewed annually. Moreover, dealers
in spirits were placed under the same regulations as _Publicans_,
in respect to Licences. This Act, after reciting the inconveniences
arising from persons being licensed to keep inns and common ale-houses
by justices living at a distance, who were not truly informed as to the
need of such inns, or the character of the persons licensed, provides
that no licence to keep an inn, ale-house, or victualling-house, or
to retail strong waters, should be granted, but at a general meeting
of justices of the division. This Act failed to answer the purpose of
its promoters. Hawkers went about the streets selling coloured spirits
under feigned names; so in the sixth year of the same reign the Act
was repealed, and in its place an Act was passed (1732) which imposed
a penalty of 10_l._ upon the retail sale of spirits, except sold in
dwelling-houses. By this masterpiece of wisdom (!) every householder
was potentially converted into a publican; nor did they fail to avail
themselves of the permission. Intemperance spread like a plague.
When matters had reached a pitch absolutely intolerable, a petition
was presented to Parliament (Feb. 20, 1736) from the magistrates of
Middlesex assembled at quarter sessions. In this petition it was
stated:--
That the drinking of Geneva, and other distilled liquors, had for
some years past greatly increased:
That the constant and excessive use thereof had destroyed thousands
of his Majesty’s subjects:
That great numbers of others were by its use rendered unfit for
useful labor, debauched in morals, and drawn into all manner of
vice and wickedness:
That those pernicious liquors were not only sold by distillers and
geneva shop-keepers, but by many persons in inferior trades, by
which means journeymen apprentices and servants were drawn in to
taste and by degrees to like, approve, and immoderately to drink
thereof:
That the public welfare and safety, as well as the trade of the
nation, would be greatly affected by it:
That the practice was dangerous to the health, strength, peace, and
morals; and tended greatly to diminish the labour and industry of
his Majesty’s subjects.[213]
Upon the petition being referred to a committee of the entire House, it
was resolved:--
That the _low price_ of spirituous liquors is the principal
inducement to the excessive and pernicious use thereof.
That in order to prevent this excessive and pernicious use, a
discouragement be given thereto by a duty to be laid on spirits
sold by retail.
That the selling of such liquors be _restrained_ to persons keeping
public brandy-shops, victualling-houses, coffee-houses, ale-houses,
innholders, _and to such Surgeons and Apothecaries as shall make
use of it by way of medicine only_.[214]
The Government were at last in earnest: a bill was introduced, the
intention of which was to strike a fatal blow, to annihilate the gin
traffic. But the blow was too sudden. A rebound was almost inevitable.
The Gin Act, which has rendered the year 1736 famous in the annals of
history, was introduced into and carried through Parliament by Sir
Joseph Jekyll. It runs thus:--
Whereas the excessive drinking of spirituous liquors by the common
people tends not only to the destruction of their health and the
debauching of their morals, but to the public ruin:
For remedy thereof--
Be it enacted, that from September 29th no person shall presume,
by themselves or any others employed by them, to sell or retail
any brandy, rum, arrack, usquebaugh, geneva, aqua vitæ, or any
other distilled spirituous liquors, mixed or unmixed, in any less
quantity than two gallons, without first taking out a licence for
that purpose within ten days at least before they sell or retail
the same; for which they shall pay down 50_l._, to be renewed ten
days before the year expires, paying the like sum, and in case of
neglect to forfeit 100_l._, such licenses to be taken out within
the limits of the penny post at the chief office of Excise, London,
and at the next office of Excise for the country. And be it enacted
that for all such spirituous liquors as any retailers shall be
possessed of on or after September 29th, 1736, there shall be paid
a duty of 20_s._ per gallon, and so in proportion for a greater or
lesser quantity above all other duties charged on the same.
The collecting the rates by this Act imposed to be under the
management of the commissioners and officers of Excise by all the
Excise laws now in force (except otherwise provided by this Act),
and all moneys arising by the said duties or licenses for sale
thereof shall be paid into the receipt of his Majesty’s Exchequer
distinctly from other branches of the public revenue; one moiety of
the fines, penalties, and forfeitures to be paid to his Majesty and
successors, the other to the person who shall inform on any one for
the same.
The Act was virtually prohibitive. But the people were too far gone to
bear it. It was ineffectual to check even the progress of intemperance.
The vices of the populace rendered them desperate. The Act, says Dr.
Lees, produced vast excitement.
The populace of London, Bristol, Norwich, and other towns, honoured
what they called the ‘death of Madame Gin’ with formal ‘funeral’
processions, whereat many of her devoted admirers, male and female,
got ‘gloriously drunk.’ The distillers took out _wine_ licences,
offered gin--spiced and wined--for sale, under a new name; while
_drams_ were sold in the brandy-shops, under the quaint appellations
of ‘Sangree,’ ‘Tom Row,’ ‘Cuckold’s Comfort,’ ‘Parliament Gin,’
‘The Last Shift,’ ‘Ladies’ Delight,’ ‘King Theodore of Corsica,’
‘Cholic-and-Gripe-Waters,’ &c. Lord Cholmondeley said, on the part of
the Government, that the law exposed them to _rebellion_, and that they
had information of its being designed; but by parading the troops in
the dangerous locality, they had probably prevented riot and bloodshed.
In March 1738 a proclamation was passed to enforce the Act and to
protect the efforts of the officers of justice.
The consumption of spirits in England and Wales rose from 13,500,000
gallons in 1734, to 19,000,000 in 1742, and there were within the
bills of mortality more than 20,000 houses and shops in which gin was
sold by retail. As might be expected, _informers_ became objects of
popular hatred, and were hunted through the streets. Of course, the
more respectable traffickers abandoned the proscribed business, which
fell into the hands of reckless and disreputable men, who set at nought
the provisions of the law. ‘Within two years of the passing of the
Act,’ says the historian, though 12,000 persons had been convicted
of offences against it, ‘it had become odious and contemptible;’ and
policy, as well as humanity, forced the commissioners of excise to
mitigate its penalties.
The House of Lords soon rang with impetuous debate; and the Act was
doomed to modification. In 1743, the Lords read a Bill for repealing
certain Duties on Spirituous Liquors and on Licences for retailing the
same. In the debate, Lord Hervey remarked:--
As it is the quality of this malignant liquor to corrupt the mind,
it likewise destroys the body.... Drunkenness not only corrupts men
by taking away those restraints by which they are withheld from
the perpetration of villanies, but by superadding the temptations
of poverty--temptations not easily resisted even by those whose
eyes are open to the consequences of their actions, but which will
_certainly_ prevail over those whose apprehensions are laid asleep,
and who never extend their views beyond the gratification of the
present moment.... Instead, therefore, of promoting a practice
_so evidently detrimental_ to society, let us oppose it with the
most vigorous efforts; let us begin our opposition by opposing
this bill, and then consider whether the execution of the former
law shall be enforced, _or whether another more efficacious can
be formed_.... No man, unacquainted with the motives by which
senatorial debates are too often influenced, would suspect that
after the pernicious qualities of this liquor, and the general
inclination among the people to the immoderate use of it, it could
be afterwards enquired, _Whether this universal thirst for poison
ought to be encouraged by the legislature?_
LORD LONSDALE said--In every part of this great metropolis, whoever
shall pass along the streets, will find wretchedness stretched upon
the pavement, insensible and motionless, and only removed by the
charity of passengers from the danger of being crushed by carriages
or trampled by horses, or strangled with filth in the common
sewers; and others, _less helpless perhaps, but more dangerous, who
have drunk too much to fear punishment, but not enough to hinder
them from provoking it_.... No man can pass a single hour in public
places without meeting such objects, or hearing such expressions
as disgrace human nature,--such as cannot be looked upon without
horror, or heard without indignation, _and which there is no
possibility of removing or preventing_, WHILST THIS HATEFUL LIQUOR
IS PUBLICLY SOLD.... These liquors not only infatuate the mind, but
poison the body; they not only fill our streets with madmen and our
prisons with criminals, but our hospitals with cripples.... Nor
does the use of spirits, my lords, only impoverish the public by
lessening the number of useful and laborious hands, but by cutting
off those recruits by which its natural and inevitable losses are
to be supplied. The use of distilled liquors impairs the fecundity
of the human race, and hinders that increase which Providence has
ordained for the support of the world. Those women who riot in this
poisonous debauchery are quickly disabled from bearing children,
or, what is still more destructive to general happiness, produce
children diseased from their birth, and who, therefore, are an
additional burden, and must be supported through a miserable life
by that labour which they cannot share, and must be protected by
that community of which they cannot contribute to the defence.[215]
Notwithstanding volleys of violent opposition, especially from the
Bishops, the Bill was carried: sixty per cent. of the House voting in
its favour. The law was again relaxed. Parliament was overwhelmed with
petitions which were the expression of a disappointed philanthropy.
The petitions of the Lord Mayor and Corporation of London, state,
‘that the common and habitual use of spirituous liquors by the
lower ranks of people, prevails to such a degree, that _it
destroys the health, strength, and industry of the poor of both
sexes and all ages, inflames them with rage and barbarity, and
occasions frequent robberies and murders in the streets of the
Metropolis_.’ The petition from the Minister and Churchwardens of
St. Martin’s, Westminster, recites that in consequence of the low
price of spirits, their use has become excessive--‘the substance of
the people is wasted--idleness and disorder have taken the place
of industry--and robberies and murders are committed under their
influence.’ The petition from Bristol states, ‘that the bad effects
of spirituous liquors have become apparent in the destruction of
the habits of the people--corrupting their morals, and rendering
them incapable of manly employments’--reducing them to poverty,
_and hardening them to the commission of crimes of the utmost
enormity_. That of the Merchants adds--‘commerce was injured.’
These crowds of petitions almost universally affirm that the _great
increase in the number of Gin-shops, and the low price of the
article_, were the causes of its excessive use _amongst the lower
orders_.
On these representations, the House again resolved ‘That it was
necessary to regulate the sale of spirits by retail.’ Measures were
adopted for the _suppression of smuggling_, and the celebrated
Tippling Act was passed.[216]
By this Act, no persons could recover for the price of spirits sold in
less quantities than 20_s._ at one time.
But just in proportion as spirits were rendered legally inaccessible,
appetite was diverted into the channel of beer. The rent was made
possibly worse. Hitherto it had been necessary to impose restrictions
upon the article sold; now the vendor must furnish guarantees. The
26th of the same George, after declaring former laws to be defective
and insufficient, required the justices, when they granted licences,
to take the recognisances of the _persons_ licensed in 10_l._, and two
sureties of 5_l._, for _good conduct_, with other restrictions.
The page of events at this time is eminently instructive. A government
cannot be far in advance of the people whom it governs. Extreme
repression has been and ever will be evaded. In the present instance,
not only was a demand for beer created, but resort was had to any
and every expedient to glut the appetite upon the favourite spirit.
The clandestine sale of gin was the natural consequence. The gaols
groaned under the burden of atonement for unpaid penalties. Within two
years of the passing of the Gin Act some twelve thousand persons had
been punished for its violation. The measure proved a failure, for
(as Smollett observes) though no licence was obtained, and no duty
paid, the liquor continued to be sold in all corners of the streets;
informers were intimidated by the threats of the people, and the
justices of the peace, either from indolence or corruption, neglected
to put the law into execution.
It is important to compare the consumption of low wines (weak spirits)
and spirits, before and after the passing of the Act. The total
consumption for England and Wales in 1733 was 11,282,890 gallons; and
in 1742 the consumption was 19,897,300 gallons. No wonder that the Act
was repealed. Had the Government imposed a graduated scale of duty upon
spirits, a scale ever sliding upwards, their price might have been
raised by almost insensible stages, till the means of purchase would
have been well-nigh precluded.
But in other directions a wiser legislation found favour. Distillation
from grain, malt, or flour was prohibited, and when it was proposed in
Parliament to relax this measure, abundant were the petitions for its
retention. It was therefore resolved that the law should be in force
till December 1759: and the success of the measure is established from
the fact that the consumption of spirits in England and Wales fell,
from the nineteen millions of 1742, to an annual average of about four
millions during the interval between the years 1760 and 1782.
Much is said in the present day of female intemperance. The Lords’
Committee had aroused public attention to the subject. But it was rife
enough in the period under discussion. A poet of the century makes no
secret of the proclivity.[217]
Britannia this upas-tree bought of Mynheer,
Removed it through Holland and planted it here;
‘Tis now a stock plant of the genus wolf’s bane,
And one of them blossoms in Marybone Lane.
The House that surrounds it stands first in the row,
Two doors at right angles swing open below;
And the children of misery daily steal in,
And the poison they draw they denominate _Gin_.
There enter the prude, and the reprobate boy,
The mother of grief and the daughter of joy,
The serving-maid slim, and the serving-man stout,
They quickly steal in, and they slowly reel out.
The following incident related in the _Gentleman’s Magazine_ for 1748,
points to a terrible condition of things:--
At a christening at Beddington in Surrey, the nurse was so
intoxicated that after she had undress’d the child, instead of
laying it in the cradle, she put it behind a large fire, which
burnt it to death in a few minutes. She was examin’d before a
magistrate, and said she was quite stupid and senseless, so that
she took the child for a log of wood; on which she was discharged!!
Nor was any class of society exempt from the imputation; but the
curtain need not be drawn.
And what a stream of ability and learning was polluted by those
mischievous compounds! Men of letters, tragedians, statesmen,
fell--ignobly fell--before the insidious destroyer.
Bolingbroke, when in office, sat up whole nights drinking, and in
the morning, having bound a wet napkin round his forehead and his
eyes, to drive away the effects of his intemperance, he hastened
without sleep to his official business.[218]
Lord Stair, in a letter to Horace Walpole, writes:--
Poor Harry (Bolingbroke) is turned out from being Secretary of
State.... They call him knave and traitor.... I believe all poor
Harry’s fault was that he could not play his part with a grave
enough face.... He got drunk now and then.
Lord Cartaret, afterwards Earl Granville, was a great scholar, and a
man of invariable high spirits.
The period of his ascendency was known by the name of the _Drunken
Administration_; and the expression was not altogether figurative.
His habits were extremely convivial; and champagne probably lent
its aid to keep him in that state of joyous excitement in which his
life was passed.... Driven from office, he retired laughing to his
books and his bottle.... Ill as he had been used, he did not seem,
says Horace Walpole, to have any resentment, or indeed any feeling
except thirst.[219]
Macaulay implies that Cartaret occasionally varied his champagne for ‘a
daily half gallon of Burgundy.’
William Pulteney, created ‘Earl of Bath’ on the resignation of Walpole,
has been generally reckoned amongst the men of the bottle. Indeed, Mr.
Lecky remarks (i. 478) that he ‘is said to have shortened his life by
drinking.’ But how can this be? He lived to the fairly respectable
age of 82. Has he not been confounded with some namesake? For what
says this same author in another volume?--‘Lord Bath, the old rival
of Walpole, subscribed liberally to the orphanage of Georgia, and was
a frequent and apparently devout attendant at Whitefield’s Chapel in
Tottenham Court Road.’ In fact in his old age he became a Methodist.
Was such a man likely to be a hard drinker?
Of Walpole, Mr. Lecky remarks, that when he was a young man, his father
was accustomed to pour into his glass a double portion of wine, saying,
‘Come, Robert, you shall drink twice while I drink once; for I will not
permit the son in his sober senses to be witness of the intoxication of
his father.’
It speaks volumes for the son of such a father, that when Mr. Chute
gibed him for stupidity, which he set down to ‘temperance diet,’
Walpole protested, saying, ‘I have such lamentable proofs every day of
the stupefying qualities of beef, ale, and wine, that I have contracted
a most religious veneration for your spiritual _nourriture_.’
Methodism, drinking, and gambling, were all on the increase. So says
Walpole. Of the first, he sarcastically says,--‘It increases as fast as
any religious nonsense did.’ Of the second he remarks,--‘Drinking is at
the highest wine-mark.’ But people were gluttons as well as drunkards.
The aristocracy of letters were infected, no less than that of rank.
Truly did Chesterfield observe, that wine and wassail have taken
more strong places than gun or steel. Jonathan Swift is generally
regarded as a free liver, though probably the company he kept is often
answerable for the imputation. The following notices must serve as
material for judgment. Dr. King states that about three years before
his death, he observed that he was affected by the wine which he drank
after dinner; next day, on his complaining of his health, he took the
liberty to tell him he had drunk too much wine. Swift was startled, and
replied that he always regarded himself as a very temperate man, and
never exceeded the quantity his physician prescribed. But, according
to King, his physician never drank less than two bottles of claret
after dinner. But King was a water-drinker.[220] Scott says of Swift’s
entertainments that they were economical, ‘although his guests, so
far as conviviality was consistent with decorum, were welcomed with
excellent wine. Swift, who used to declare he was never intoxicated in
his life, had nevertheless lived intimately with those at whose tables
wine was liberally consumed, and he was not himself averse to the
moderate use of it.’ The same author adds that Dr. King said that Swift
drank about a pint of claret after dinner, which the doctor considered
too much.
On the other hand his satirists accused him of excess. One of them
says, ‘He was heard to make some self-denying promises in prayer, that,
for the time to come, he would stint himself to two or three bottles in
an evening.’[221] Again, the Archbishop of Cashel seems to have known
his weak point. In a letter, inviting him on a visit, and giving him
minute instructions as to the route, he baits him by the intelligence
that he would pass a parson’s cabin where was a private cellar of which
the parson kept the key, in which was always a hogshead of the best
wine that could be got, in bottles well-corked, upon their side.[222]
His poems often betrayed the flavour of the bottle. Witness his
_Country Quarter Sessions_, which begins:--
Three or four parsons full of October,
Three or four squires between drunk and sober.
Again, in his _Baucis and Philemon_; Goody Baucis in bestirring herself
to provide the hermit’s hospitality--
Then stepp’d aside to fetch ‘em drink,
Fill’d a large jug up to the brink,
And saw it fairly twice go round.
Somerville, the author of _The Chase_, was no doubt fond of the bottle,
as we see very clearly from the letter of his friend Shenstone after
his death:--
Our old friend Somerville is dead! I did not imagine I could
have been so sorry as I find myself on this occasion.--_Sublatum
quærimus._ I can now excuse all his foibles; impute them to age,
and to distress of circumstances: the last of these considerations
wrings my very soul to think on. For a man of high spirit,
conscious of having (at least in one production) generally pleased
the world, to be plagued and threatened by wretches that are low in
every sense; _to be forced to drink himself into pains of the body,
in order to get rid of the pains of the mind, is a misery_.
James Quin the tragedian was a _bon vivant_. After being engaged at
Drury Lane Theatre, a tavern brawl involved him in law proceedings,
and he was obliged for a time to leave the country. His epitaph, by
Garrick, depicts the man:--
A plague on Egypt’s arts! I say;
Embalm the dead, on senseless clay
Rich wines and spices waste!
Like sturgeon, or like brawn, shall I,
Bound in a precious pickle, lie,
Which I shall never taste.
Let me embalm this flesh of mine
With turtle fat and Bordeaux wine,
And spoil th’ Egyptian trade.
Than Humphry’s Duke more happy I;
Embalm’d alive, old Quin shall die,
A mummy ready made.
Richard Savage lived a very profligate life. Johnson says that ‘in no
time of his life was it any part of his character to be the first of
the company that desired to separate.’ It was when inebriated that he
killed one Mr. James Sinclair, 1727, and was within an ace of being
hanged for the same. Lord Tyrconnel, who had been very kind to him, and
suddenly dropped him, gives a very bad account of his drinking habits.
He affirmed that it was the constant practice of Mr. Savage to
enter a tavern with any company that proposed it, drink the most
expensive wines with great profusion, and when the reckoning was
demanded, be without money: if, as it often happened, his company
were willing to defray his part, the affair ended without any
ill consequences; but if they were refractory, and expected that
the wine should be paid for by him that drank it, his method of
composition was to take them with him to his own apartment, assume
the government of the house, and order the butler in an imperious
manner to set the best wine in the cellar before his company,
who often drank till they forgot the respect due to the house in
which they were entertained, indulged themselves in the utmost
extravagance of merriment, practised the most licentious frolics,
and committed all the outrages of drunkenness.
No wonder Lord Tyrconnel dropped him. Even Savage himself admitted that
Lord Tyrconnel ‘often exhorted him to regulate his method of life, _and
not to spend all his nights in taverns_, and that he appeared desirous
that he would pass those hours with him, which he so freely bestowed
upon others.’ The poor fellow eventually, having estranged all his
friends by his petulance as well as his bad habits, got deplorably
poor, and ‘wandered about the town, slighted and neglected, in quest of
a dinner, which he did not always obtain.’ It was at this period that
we read the extraordinary account of him, that ‘he was not able to bear
the smell of meat till the action of his stomach was restored by a
cordial.’ On one occasion in great distress at Bristol, ‘he received a
remittance of five pounds from London, with which he provided himself
a decent coat, and determined to go to London, but unhappily spent his
money at a favourite tavern.’
The tale goes on, ‘Thus was he again confined to Bristol, where he
was every day hunted by bailiffs. In this exigence he once more
found a friend, who sheltered him in his house, though at the usual
inconveniences with which his company was attended; for he could
neither be persuaded to go to bed in the night nor to rise in the day.’
But if many were the victims of excess, many too were the champions of
restraint; and, first of all, we turn to Dr. Samuel Johnson. In his
early life he drank wine; let him testify for himself.
In an interesting conversation with an old college friend, one Edwards,
held April 17, 1778, he made a remark which Sir Wilfrid Lawson would
hail:--
_Edwards._ How do you live, sir? For my part, I must have my
regular meals and a glass of good wine. I find I require it.
_Johnson._ I now drink no wine, sir. Early in life I drank wine;
for many years I drank none. I then for some years drank a good
deal....
_Edwards._ I am grown old: I am sixty-five.
_Johnson._ I shall be sixty-eight next birthday. Come, sir, DRINK
WATER, AND PUT IN FOR A HUNDRED.
When he first came to London, at the age of 29, he abstained entirely
(_teste_ Boswell) from fermented liquors, ‘a practice to which he
rigidly conformed for many years together at different periods of his
life.’ Upon this point Croker has a suggestive note, apropos of the
effect of drink on hypochondria:--
At this time his abstinence from wine may perhaps be attributed
to poverty, but in his subsequent life he was restrained from
that indulgence by, as it appears, moral, or rather medical,
considerations. He found by experience that wine, though it
dissipated for a moment, yet eventually aggravated the hereditary
disease under which he suffered; and perhaps it may have been
owing to a long course of abstinence that his mental health seems
to have been better in the latter than in the earlier portion of
his life. He says, in his _Prayers and Meditations_ (August 17,
1767), ‘By abstinence from wine and suppers I obtained sudden and
great relief, and had freedom of mind restored to me; which I have
wanted for all this year, without being able to find any means of
obtaining it.’ These remarks are important, because _depression of
spirits_ is too often treated on a contrary system, from ignorance
of or _inattention to what may be_ its _real_ cause.
Dr. Johnson was very often chiefly indebted to _tea_ for his literary
afflatus. ‘The quantities which he drank of the infusion of that
fragrant leaf,’ says Boswell, ‘at all hours were so great, that his
nerves must have been uncommonly strong, not to have been extremely
relaxed by such an intemperate use of it.’ In his defence of Tea
against Mr. Jonas Hanway, Johnson describes himself as ‘a hardened and
shameless tea-drinker, who has for many years diluted his meals with
only the infusion of this fascinating plant; whose kettle has scarcely
time to cool; who with tea amuses the evening, with tea solaces the
midnights, and with tea welcomes the morning.’ This last phrase
his friend, Tom Tyers, happily parodied, ‘_te_ veniente die--_te_
decedente.’
Boswell often pauses to descant upon
_Dr. Johnson’s Temperance_.
_September 16, 1773._--Last night much care was taken of Dr.
Johnson, who was still distressed by his cold. He had hitherto most
strangely slept without a nightcap. Miss Macleod made him a large
flannel one, and he was prevailed with to drink a little brandy
when he was going to bed. He has great virtue in not drinking wine
or any fermented liquor because, as he acknowledged to us, he could
not do it in moderation. Lady Macleod would hardly believe him, and
said, ‘I am sure, sir, you would not carry it too far.’--_Johnson._
‘Nay, madam, it carried me. I took the opportunity of a long
illness to leave it off. It was then prescribed to me not to drink
wine; and, having broken off the habit, I have never returned to
it.’
Again, says Boswell:--
A.D. 1776.--Finding him still persevering in his abstinence from
wine, I ventured to speak to him of it.--_Johnson._ Sir, I have no
objection to a man’s drinking wine, if he can do it in moderation.
I found myself apt to go into excess in it, and therefore, after
having been for some time without it on account of illness, I
thought it better not to return to it. Every man is to judge for
himself, according to the effects which he experiences. One of the
fathers tells us he found fasting made him so peevish that he did
not practise it.
Dr. B. W. Richardson’s ideas about the harm done to constitutions by
excessive palpitation of the heart (especially under the action of
alcohol) seem to have had shadows cast before. Boswell’s hero rather
pooh-poohed the idea, in a conversation after dinner at Thrale’s, April
10, 1776:--
Johnson mentioned Dr. Barry’s System of Physic. ‘He was a man,’
said he, ‘who had acquired a high reputation in Dublin, came over
to England, and brought his reputation with him. HIS NOTION WAS,
THAT PULSATION OCCASIONS DEATH BY ATTRITION, AND THAT THEREFORE
THE WAY TO PRESERVE LIFE IS TO RETARD PULSATION. But we know that
pulsation is strongest in infants, and that we increase in growth
while it operates in its regular course; so it cannot well be the
cause of destruction.’
This Barry became a Baronet--_Sir Edward Barry, Bart._ ‘He published,
in 1775, a curious work on the Wines of the Ancients.’
It should not be forgotten that when Dr. Johnson did drink, he drank
heavily. On April 7, 1778, he said he had drunk three bottles of port
at a time without being the worse for it. ‘University College has
witnessed this.’ He could practise abstinence, but not temperance.
Boswell’s own ideas upon drinking are worth recording:--
I observed [says he of himself, April 12, 1776] that wine did
some people harm, by inflaming, confusing, and irritating their
minds; but that the experience of mankind had declared in favour of
moderate drinking.
Sir Joshua Reynolds on the same occasion expressed similar ideas. He
argued that ‘a moderate glass enlivened the mind, by giving a proper
circulation to the blood.’
Probably Reynolds had studied the _Familiar Letters_ of the
Historiographer-Royal, Howell, who, as before noticed, thought that
‘good wine makes good blood.’
Johnson lived to see, as he believed, a change for the better, in the
direction of temperance.
_Anno Domini 1773._--We talked of change of manners. Dr. Johnson
observed that our drinking less than our ancestors was owing to
the change from ale to wine. ‘I remember,’ said he, ‘when all the
_decent_ people in Lichfield got drunk every night, and were not
the worse thought of. Ale was cheap, so you pressed strongly.
When a man must bring a bottle of wine, he is not in such haste.’
[Johnson was sixty-four at the time.]
It seems strange that Johnson’s influence over his minion’s habits
was so slight. At any rate the following anecdote points to this
conclusion:--
Lord Eldon tells us, in his ‘Anecdote Book,’ that at an assize
in Lancaster about the year 1782, Jemmy Boswell, the biographer
of Dr. Johnson, was found dead drunk and stretched upon the
pavement. His merry colleagues, of whom the sage Lord Eldon was
one, subscribed among them a guinea at supper, which they sent next
morning to Boswell, with instructions to move in Court for the
writ of ‘Quare adhæsit pavimento.’ In vain did the perplexed and
bibulous barrister apply to all the attorneys of his acquaintance
for information as to the nature of the writ for which he was
instructed to move, and great was the astonishment of the Judge
when the application was made to him. At last one of the Bar,
amidst the laughter of the Court, exclaimed, ‘My Lord, Mr. Boswell
adhæsit pavimento last night. There was no moving him for some
time. At length he was carried to bed, and has been dreaming of
what happened to himself.’
It is unfortunate that Johnson should have been guilty of the _lapsus
linguæ_ for which Bacchanalians have often claimed him as their
hero, and by which careful historians have been misled. Mr. Mallet,
speaking of the Icelanders of the middle ages, tells that ‘after
they had finished eating their boiled horseflesh, they generally sat
swilling their ale out of capacious drinking-horns and listening to
the lay of a skald, or the tale of a Saga-man, until they were most
of them in that happy state of mind, when, according to Johnson,
man is alone capable of enjoying the passing moment of his fleeting
existence.’ He refers doubtless to a saying of the _savant_ recorded
by his biographer. Johnson being asked whether a man was not sometimes
happy in the moment that was present, answered, ‘Never but when he is
drunk.’ Most Johnsonians would readily admit that this was a _lapsus_,
a sally of the moment, not his deliberate judgment, such as is
obtainable from a set work like his incomparable _Rasselas_. There we
read:--‘Intemperance, though it may fire the spirits for an hour, will
make life short or miserable.’
Oliver Goldsmith, in _The Bee_, has some pungent observations upon
_ale-houses_:--
Ale-houses are ever an occasion of debauchery and excess, and
either in a religious or political light it would be our highest
interest to have the greatest part of them suppressed. They should
be put under laws of not continuing open beyond a certain hour,
and harbouring only proper persons. These rules, it may be said,
will diminish the necessary taxes; but this is false reasoning,
since what was consumed in debauchery abroad would, if such a
regulation took place, be more justly and perhaps more equitably
for the workman’s family spent at home: and this, cheaper to them
and without loss of time. On the other hand, our ale-houses, being
ever open, interrupt business.
This same delightful author wrote that convivial satire entitled _The
Three Pigeons_, which he put into the mouth of Tony Lumpkin in _She
Stoops to Conquer_, of which the following is a part:--
Let schoolmasters puzzle their brain
With grammar, and nonsense, and learning;
Good liquor, I stoutly maintain,
Gives _genus_ a better discerning.
When Methodist preachers come down,
A-preaching that drinking is sinful,
I’ll wager the rascals a crown,
They always preach best with a skin-full.
Then come, put the jorum about,
And let us be merry and clever;
Our hearts and our liquors are stout,
Here’s the Three Jolly Pigeons for ever!
Shenstone, another contemporary poet, though he spent so large a
portion of his time in adorning The Leasowes, till he had made it a
kind of rural paradise, could also rave about the _freedom_ of an
_inn_:--
‘Tis here with boundless power I reign,
And every health which I begin
Converts dull port to bright champagne;
Such freedom crowns it at an inn.
Whoe’er has travelled life’s dull round,
Where’er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome at an inn.
And the same spirit breathes again in the _Deserted Village_ of
Goldsmith. The village ale-house is clearly included among the ‘simple
blessings of the lowly train.’ Yet there is nothing to condemn in the
sentiments there expressed, and we may echo the words of Sir Walter
Scott:--
The wreath of Goldsmith is unsullied; he wrote to exalt virtue and
expose vice; and he accomplished his task in a manner which raises
him to the highest rank among British authors.
But we pass on to notice the man who did more than any one of his time
to expose vice, and in particular the vice of intemperance. And this
is not surprising when we consider the remarkable manner in which his
genius for painting discovered itself.
Going out one Sunday with some companions to Highgate, they went into
an inn, where they had not been long, before a quarrel arose between
some persons in the same room. One of the disputants struck the other
on the head with a quart pot, which cut him badly, and the blood ran
down his face freely. This, with the contortions of his countenance,
afforded a striking object to Hogarth, who drew out his pencil and
sketched the scene.
It will be sufficient for the present purpose to note the part which
drink plays in his _Marriage à la Mode_, the _Rake’s Progress_, and
in two miscellaneous Plates. In the first mentioned, Counsellor
Silvertongue begins his vile work of ensnaring the Viscountess by
offering her a glass of light wine at an interval between the dances.
Plate ii. represents the Viscount returning home the day after the
entertainment. His appearance denotes that he has been involved in some
drunken fray. Plate vi. depicts ‘sin when it is finished,’ the suicide
of the beguiled Viscountess by means of laudanum.
Plate iii. of the _Rake’s Progress_ illustrates the ‘orgie at the Rose
Tavern.’ Young Rakewell is lavishly expending his money in plying with
drink the caressing courtesans. He himself becomes intoxicated, and is
of course robbed of his watch and jewellery; one of the wretched women,
in a fit of rage, sets fire to a map of the world, swearing that she
will burn the entire globe and herself with it. The reflections of the
morrow can be easily imagined.
In _Gin Lane_, the artist portrays a loathsome neighbourhood, the
presiding genius of which is _gin_. To procure it no means are left
untried. Every article of domestic comfort, even to the meanest shred
of raiment, is carried to the pawnbroker for the wherewithal to
purchase gin. The influence of this fire-water is everywhere apparent;
in the ruined dwellings, in the sickly looks, in the emaciated frames,
trembling limbs, carious teeth, livid lips, and sunken eyes. The very
children in that region are habituated from the cradle to love gin.
The one house that thrives is that of the pawnbroker. The details are
agonising! a child ravenous, gnawing a bare bone, which a dog, equally
the victim of famine, is snatching from him. A woman is seen pouring
a dram down the throat of an infant. In a ruined house, the corpse of
a hanging suicide is displayed. A drunken object is drawn, in female
shape, whose legs have broken out in horrible ulcers, and who is taking
snuff, regardless of her child slipping from her arms into the low area
of the gin vault. Gin too has killed the female whom we see two men
placing in a shell by order of the beadle, while the orphan child is
being conveyed to the Union.
Well did the Reverend James Townley underwrite:--
Gin, cursed fiend! with fury fraught,
Makes human race a prey;
It enters by a deadly draught
And steals our life away.
Virtue and Truth, driv’n to despair,
Its rage compels to fly;
But cherishes, with hellish care,
Theft, Murder, Perjury.
Damn’d cup! that on the vitals preys,
That liquid fire contains,
Which madness to the heart conveys,
And rolls it through the veins.
The general design of the Plate _Beer Street_ is to expose the deadly
habit of gin-drinking, and to teach that if man must drink strong
liquors, beer is far the best to indulge in.
Edward Young, courtier, poet, rector, a general genius, satirised
tea and wine as abused by the women of his day. After bemoaning the
hecatomb sacrificed upon the altar of _tea_, he exclaims:--
But this inhuman triumph shall decline,
And thy revolting Naiads call for wine;
Spirits no longer shall serve under thee,
But reign in thy own cup, exploded Tea!
Citronia’s nose declares thy ruin nigh;
And who dares give Citronia’s nose the lie?
The ladies long at men of drink exclaimed,
And what impaired both health and virtue blamed.
At length, to rescue man, the generous lass
Stole from her consort the pernicious glass,
As glorious as the British Queen renown’d
Who suck’d the poison from her husband’s wound.
Another champion of temperance was John Armstrong, who wrote in 1744
_The Art of Preserving Health_. But he was no ascetic, for he writes:--
When you smooth
The brows of care, indulge your festive vein
In cups by well-informed experience found
The least your bane, and only with your friends.
The effects of a surfeit of drink he has most ably drawn:--
But most too passive, when the blood runs low,
Too weakly indolent to strive with pain,
And bravely by resisting conquer fate,
Try Circe’s arts; and in the tempting bowl
Of poisoned nectar sweet oblivion swill.
Struck by the powerful charm, the gloom dissolves
In empty air; Elysium opens round,
A pleasing frenzy buoys the lightened soul,
And sanguine hopes dispel your fleeting care;
And what was difficult, and what was dire,
Yields to your prowess and superior stars:
The happiest you of all that e’er were mad,
Or are, or shall be, could this folly last.
But soon your heaven is gone: a heavier gloom
Shuts o’er your head; and, as the thundering stream,
Swollen o’er its banks with sudden mountain rain,
Sinks from its tumult to a silent brook,
So, when the frantic raptures in your breast
Subside, you languish into mortal man;
You sleep, and waking find yourself undone,
For, prodigal of life, in one rash night
You lavished more than might support three days.
A heavy morning comes; your cares return
With tenfold rage. An anxious stomach well
May be endured; so may the throbbing head;
But such a dim delirium, such a dream,
Involves you; such a dastardly despair
Unmans your soul, as maddening Pentheus felt,
When, baited round Cithæron’s cruel sides,
He saw two suns, and double Thebes ascend.
How does this remind of the rich fool in the parable! The earlier lines
of irony seem almost taken in idea from some sentiments of Hafiz, the
favourite poet of the Persians.
I am [says he] neither a judge nor a priest, nor a censor, nor a
lawyer; why should I forbid the use of wine?
Do not be vexed at the trifles of the world; drink, for it is folly
for a wise man to be afflicted....
The only friends who are free from care are a goblet of wine and a
book of odes.
Give me wine! wine that shall subdue the strongest: that I may for
a time forget the cares and troubles of the world.
Armstrong joined in the general growl at the substitution of port for
the lighter French wine.
In describing a man’s sensations on awaking he says:--
You curse the sluggish port, you curse the wretch,
The felon, with unnatural mixture, first
Who dared to violate the virgin wine.
Again, when speaking of wholesome wine, he praises:--
The gay, serene, good-natured Burgundy,
Or the fresh fragrant vintage of the Rhine.
Again, he describes Burgundy as the drink for gentlemen, and port as an
abomination:--
The man to well-bred Burgundy brought up,
Will start the smack of _Methuen_ in the cup.
What Armstrong said one hundred and thirty years ago I entreat my
medical brethren to believe now. I repeat it: if you want to prescribe
_spirits_, do so; if you want to give _wine_, give _pure_ wine. One
bottle of good Burgundy will give twice the flavour and half the spirit
that port does.[223]
In 1735 was published _A Friendly Admonition to the Drinkers of Brandy
and other Distilled Spirituous Liquors_. The author laments that man
has found means to extract from what God intended for his refreshment,
a most pernicious and intoxicating liquor. Singularly does this
anonymous writer anticipate the results of modern inquiries. He tells
us that distilled liquors _coagulate and thicken the blood, contract
and narrow the blood-vessels_, as has been proved by _experiments
purposely made_.
Whence [says he] we may evidently see the reason why those liquors
do so frequently cause _Obstructions_ and _Stoppages_ in the
_Liver_; whence the _Jaundice_, _Dropsy_, and many other fatal
Diseases: It is in like manner also that they destroy and burn up
the _Lungs_ too: Hence also it is, that by frequently contracting
and shrivelling, and then soon after relaxing, they weaken and wear
out the Substance and Coats of the Stomach, on which they more
immediately prey, every time they are drank: Hence, I say, it is,
that these spirituous Liquors rarely fail to destroy the Appetite
and Digestion of those who habituate themselves to them; for by
drying up, and spoiling the Nerves, they make them insensible; they
destroy also many of the very fine Blood-Vessels, especially where
their Fibres are most tender, as in the Brain; whereby they spoil
the Memory and intellectual Faculties: And by thus inflaming the
Blood, and disordering the Blood Vessels and Nerves, they vitiate
and deprave the _Natural Temper_.
When first drank, they seem to comfort the Stomach, by contracting
its too relaxed and flabby Fibres, and also to warm the Blood; but
as the Warmth which they give, on mixing with the Blood, soon goes
off, as it is in fact found to do, when we mix Brandy with Blood;
so also the spirituous Part of the Brandy being soon dissolved,
and soaking into the watery Humours of the Body, it can no longer
contract and warm the Substance and Coats of the Stomach and other
Parts; which therefore as soon relaxing, the unhappy persons are
thereby in a little time reduced to a cold, languid, and dispirited
state, which gives them so much uneasiness that they are impatient
to get out of it by Supplies of the same deadly Liquor, which,
instead of curing, daily increases their Disease more and more.
But the worst is not yet told.
As when immediately put into the Veins of an Animal they cause
sudden Death, so when drank in a large Quantity at once, they
coagulate and thicken the Blood to such a degree _as to kill
instantly_: And when they are not drank in such Quantities as to
kill immediately, but are daily used, then, besides many other
Diseases, they are apt to breed _Polypuses_, or fleshy Substances
in the Heart, by thickening the Blood there; which _Polypuses_, as
they grow larger and larger, do, by hindering and retarding the
Motion of the Blood through the Heart, thereby farther contribute
to the Faintness and Dispiritedness of those unhappy Persons, and
at length, by totally stopping the Course of the Blood, do as
effectually kill, as if a Dart had been struck thro’ the Liver.
And again, speaking of these same spirituous liquors, he adds:--
Some may indeed be more palatable than others, _but they are all
in a manner equally pernicious and dangerous, that are of an equal
Strength; and those most destructive and deadly, which are the
strongest, that is, which have most Spirit in them_. Which _Spirit_
being of a very harsh, fiery, and acrimonious Nature, as it is
found to seize on and harden raw Flesh put into it; so does it
greatly injure the Stomach, Bowels, Liver, and all other Parts of
human Bodies, especially the Nerves; which being the immediate and
principal Instruments of Life and Action, hence it is, that it so
remarkably enfeebles the habitual Drinkers of it; and also depraves
the Memory, by hardening and spoiling the Substance of the Brain,
which is the Seat of Life, and this is an Inconvenience which
the great Drinkers of _Punch_ often find, as well as the _Dram_
Drinkers.
Fifteen years later (1751) a Scotchman, James Burgh (cousin to the
historian Robertson), wrote _A warning to Dram-Drinkers_. Would that it
had been effectual!
At this time _cider_ seems to have risen to the dignity of civic
feasts. At a feast held Nov. 5th, 1737, at an inn, the following are
the charges:--
_£_ _s._ _d._
Ordinaries 1 10 0
Wine 2 6 0
Beer, _Cider_, Ale 0 8 10
Candles and tobacco 0 3 6
Beer, gunners and drummers 0 3 4
For firing 0 1 6
Sugar, lemons, and glasses 0 14 0
Wine after the bill delivered 0 6 0
Beer firing, tobacco 0 1 10
-----------
5 15 0
No bill for feast or treat at any place ... was found to have any
mention of cider as used at table, and charged for with beer and ale
before this one.[224]
In 1746 _A Bowl of Punch_ appears as a novelty in the bill of a
corporation dinner. When Coade was Mayor in 1737, sixteen bowls of
punch were drunk at a corporation banquet.
_Whitsun-ales_ were still in force. In the postscript of a letter from
a minister to his parishioners in the Deanery of Stow, Gloucestershire,
1736, the author writes:--
What I have now been desiring you to consider as touching the evil
and pernicious consequences of _Whitsun-ales_ among us, doth also
obtain against Dovers Meeting ... and also against _Midsummer Ales_
and _Mead-mowings_; and likewise against the ordinary violations of
those festival seasons commonly called _Wakes_.
In the year 1735 occurred a scene which fairly gives colour to the
_Secret History of the Calves’ Head Club_. The following account is
given in the letters of L’Abbé Le Blanc:--
Some young men of quality chose to abandon themselves to the
debauchery of drinking healths on the 30th of January, a day
appointed by the Church of England for a general fast, to expiate
the murder of Charles I., whom they honour as a martyr. As soon
as they were heated with wine, they began to sing. This gave great
offence to the people, who stopped before the tavern, and gave them
abusive language. One of these rash young men put his head out of
the window and drank to the memory of the army which dethroned this
king, and to the rebels which cut off his head upon a scaffold. The
stones immediately flew from all parts, the furious populace broke
the windows of the house, and would have set fire to it.
The Chapter Coffeehouse was opened at this time, famous for punch,
pamphlets, and newspapers. Buchan, of _Domestic Medicine_ fame, was an
_habitué_; so was Dr. Gower.
These eminent physicians sat and prescribed for the maladies of their
mates, _Chapter punch_; ‘If one won’t do, call for a second.’ But
clubs, whatever they may have been, are anything but unfavourable
to temperance _now_. The worst that can be honestly thought of them
is--that they _may_ minister to selfishness.
Thus are clubs an exception to the usual tendency of the moral law of
gravitation--downwards. What is there in common, save the name, between
the _Athenæum_ of to-day, and the _Roxburghe_ of the beginning of the
century?
The entertainments of the latter have found their way into print under
the title ‘_Roxburghe Revels; or, An Account of the Annual Display_,
culinary and festivous, interspersed incidentally with matters of
Moment or Merryment.’[225]
George III. was an example of _moderation_. One of his biographers,
Edward Holt, observes:--
Exercise, air, and little diet were the grand fundamentals in the
King’s idea of health and sprightliness: his Majesty fed chiefly
on vegetables and drank little wine. The Queen was what many
private gentlewomen styled whimsically abstemious.
The story is told that at Worcester, the mayor, knowing that the King
never took drink before dinner, asked him if he would be pleased to
take a jelly, when the King replied: ‘I do not recollect drinking a
glass of wine before dinner in my life, yet upon this pleasing occasion
I will venture.’ A glass of rich old _Mountain_ was served, when his
Majesty immediately drank ‘Prosperity to the Corporation and Citizens
of Worcester.’ This occurred in the twenty-eighth year of the King’s
reign (1788). The rigid rule was still observed by his Majesty, as we
learn from an incident which occurred twelve years later. One morning,
when visiting as usual his stables, the King heard the following
conversation between the grooms: ‘I don’t care what you say, Robert,
but every one agrees that the man at the _Three Tuns_ makes the best
purl in Windsor.’ ‘Purl, purl!’ said the King, quickly. ‘Robert, what’s
purl?’ This was explained to be warm beer with a glass of gin, &c.
His Majesty listened attentively, and turning round, said: ‘I dare
say, very good drink, but too strong for the morning; never drink in a
morning.’
In the description of the King’s visit to Whitbread’s brewery, we
learn incidentally the large scale on which even then the wholesale
trade was conducted--_e.g._ in the great store were three thousand and
seven barrels of beer. The stone cistern, into which he entered, held
four thousand barrels of beer. The royal party were offered some of
Whitbread’s _entire_.
The King drank and responded to _toasts_. Thus, at a dinner of _The
Knights_, we read that towards the end of the first course, a large
gilt cup was brought to the Sovereign by the cupbearer. The King drank
to the knights, who, being at his Majesty’s command, informed of the
same by Garter, stood up uncovered, pledged the King, and then sat down.
At the jubilee, the commemoration of the fiftieth year of the King’s
reign, the mayor at the banquet gave ‘The King, God bless him, and long
may he reign over a free and united people,’ which was drunk with three
times three.
The general habits of the time formed a striking contrast to the
personal example of the King. In the recently issued elaborate _Life
of George IV._, by Percy Fitzgerald, we get a picture into the social
manners and customs prevailing about 1787:--
‘How the men of business and the great orators of the House of
Commons contrive to reconcile it with their exertions I cannot
conceive,’ writes that most charming of public men, Sir Gilbert
Elliot, to his wife. ‘Men of all ages drink abominably. Fox (a
Prime Minister) drinks what I should call a great deal, though he
is not reckoned to do so by his companions; Sheridan (M.P. and
dramatist, and withal the bosom friend of the Prince of Wales,
afterwards George IV.) excessively; and Grey (Viscount Howick) more
than any of them. But it is in a much more gentlemanly way than
our Scotch drunkards, and is always accompanied with lively clever
conversation on subjects of importance. Pitt (a Prime Minister), I
am told, drinks as much as anybody.’
The same observer, Sir Gilbert Elliot (1787), describes a scene at
W. Crewe’s, where three young men of fashion, Mr. Orlando Bridgman,
Mr. Charles Greville, of the Picnic Club, and Mr. Gifford were so
drunk, ‘as to puzzle the whole assembly.’ The last was a young
gentleman lately come out, of a good estate of about five thousand
pounds a year, the whole of which he is in the act of spending in
one or two years at least (125,000_l._), and this without a grain
of sense, without any fun to himself or entertainment to others.
He never uttered a word, though as drunk as the other two, who
were both riotous, and began at last to talk so plain, that Lady
Francis and Lady Valentine fled from the side table to ours, and
Mrs. Sheridan would have followed them, but did not escape till her
arms were black and blue, and her apron torn off.
Pitt, the model young minister, broke down in the house in the
following year, owing to a debauch the night before at Lord
Buckingham’s, when, in company with Dundas and the Duke of Gordon,
he took too much wine.
Indeed, the manners and customs of the times (1780-1830) might be
called a ‘precious school’ for the young princes (Prince of Wales,
Dukes of York, Cumberland, and Kent), and there was no public
opinion to check these vices.
The lawlessness that was abroad reached even to the young, who
disdained the control of their parents.
To the same effect writes Dr. Doran:--
Any one who will take the trouble to go carefully through the
columns of the ill-printed newspapers of the last century,
will find that drunkenness, dissoluteness, and the sword
hanging on every fool’s thigh ready to do his bidding, were the
characteristics of the period. People got drunk at dinners, and
then slew one another, or in some other way broke the law.
The _taverns_ were crowded with morning drinkers. On the site occupied
by the Bank of England, four inns used to stand; one of them was called
_The Crown_. Sir John Hawkins, in his _History of Musick_, mentions
that it was not unusual to draw a butt (120 gallons) in half-pints in
the course of a single morning.
The drinking at the _Universities_ was terrible.
Henry Gunning, M.A., Christ’s College, Cambridge (a descendant of the
Bishop of Ely, who wrote the prayer for the Church Militant), had great
opportunities of judging of the Cambridge of his day, for he was born
1768 in a Cambridgeshire vicarage, went up to Cambridge at an early
age, was made Esquire Bedell 1789, and continued in that capacity
till his death early in 1854. In his charming _Reminiscences of the
University, Town, and County of Cambridge, from the year 1780_, he
observes:--
Drunkenness was the besetting sin of the period when I came to
college. I need scarcely add that many other vices followed in its
train.
Again, speaking of a college friend:--
I do not remember ever to have seen him guilty of drunkenness, _at
that time almost universal_.
Again (pp. 147-148):--
For many years during Rev. Charles Simeon’s ministry (I speak
from my own personal knowledge) Trinity Church and the streets
leading to it were the scenes of the most disgraceful tumults.
On one occasion an undergraduate, who had been apprehended by
Simeon, was compelled to read a public apology in the church.
Mr. Simeon made a prefatory address: ‘We have long borne during
public worship with the most indecent conduct from those whose
situation in life should have made them sensible of the heinousness
of such offences; we have seen persons coming into this place
in a state of intoxication; we have seen them walking about the
aisles, notwithstanding there are persons appointed to show them
into seats; we have seen them coming in and going out without the
slightest reverence or decorum; we have seen them insulting modest
persons, both in and after divine service; in short, the devotions
of the congregation have been disturbed by almost every species of
ill conduct.’
About 1788, Gunning was for some time a tutor in Herefordshire; there
he observed that immense quantities of cider were drunk:--
In years when apples were abundant, the labourers in husbandry
were allowed to drink as much cider as they thought proper. It
was no unusual thing for a man to put his lips to a wooden bottle
containing four quarts, and not remove them until he had emptied
it. I have myself witnessed this exploit; but I never ventured
to mention a circumstance apparently so incredible, until I read
Marshall’s _History of Herefordshire_, in which he relates the same
fact.
George Pryme (_b._ 1781, _obiit_ 1868) in his _Autobiographic
Recollections_, 1870, fully confirms Gunning’s picture of Cambridge:--
When I first went to Cambridge [in 1799] the habit of hard drinking
was almost as prevalent there as it was in country society....
‘Buzzing,’ unknown in the present day, was then universal. When the
decanter came round to any one, if it was nearly emptied, the next
in succession could require him to finish it; but if the quantity
left exceeded the bumper, the challenger was obliged to drink the
remainder and also a bumper out of the next fresh bottle. There was
throughout these parties an endeavour to make each other drunk, and
a pride in being able to resist the effects of the wine.
This Pryme was a person of distinction; sometime Fellow of Trinity,
first Professor of Political Economy in Cambridge University, and
thrice M.P. for the Borough. Moreover he was no teetotaller; though a
moderate man, he had full belief in the _medicinal_ virtue of brandy.
And he had reason; for he says:--
In the winter of 1788-9 I was attacked by a severe fever, and was
attended by Dr. Storer of Nottingham, the most eminent physician
in that part of the country. After prescribing every medicine that
he could think of as suitable to the case, he called one evening
on my mother but declined seeing me, as he said everything had
been tried, and that giving more medicine was only harassing me in
vain. He however asked a few questions about me, and was told that
I had repeatedly begged for brandy. He mixed some in a wine-glass
with water, which I eagerly drank and asked for more; he then mixed
a second glass. The next forenoon he called to inquire if I was
still alive, and was told that I had had a good night and was much
better. He saw me, and from that time I steadily recovered.
The habits of a University are very fair tests of the habits of the
more affluent, and upper middle classes of the nation. Outside this
for the most part is the great class generally known as _tradesmen_.
Probably nothing has contributed so much to the deterioration of this
class, as the almost invariable habit of spending the evening in some
hotel or tavern. It is still common in Germany. It is much to be hoped
that it is dying out in England. Charles Knight, in his _Passages of a
Working Life_, seems to speak of it as universally the case early in
the present century. He speaks of the tradesmen as habitually
Sallying forth to spend their long evenings in their accustomed
chairs at the ale-house, which had become their second home. Some
had a notion that they secured custom to the shop by a constant
round among the numerous hostelries. I knew a most worthy man,
occupying a large house which his forefathers had occupied from
the time of Queen Anne, who, when he gave up the business to his
son, who, recently married, preferred his own fireside, told the
innovator that he would infallibly be ruined if he did not go out
to make friends over his evening glass.
But does not every grade in society sensibly or insensibly take its cue
from that _immediately_ above it? And what were those who should have
set a virtuous example doing? How much have such men to answer for, as
Byron, Porson, Pitt, Fox, Sheridan, Smart, Lamb, and Churchill!
Of the first named, it has been observed that when he was not impairing
a naturally delicate constitution with drastic medicines and protracted
fasts, he would sometimes eat and drink excessively. And this was
especially the case in fits of mortification. Everyone will remember
the circumstance of the _Edinburgh Review_ proscribing Byron’s early
production, _Hours of Idleness_. Though he affected indifference, and
spoke of the critique as a paper bullet of the brain, yet he afterwards
acknowledged that he tried to drown his irritation on the day he
read it with three bottles of claret after dinner. His excesses of
all kinds, in his continental life, are matters of history. They are
usually considered to have contributed to terminate his fever fatally.
This recalls his clever lines:--
_On a Carrier who died of Drunkenness._
John Adams lies here, of the parish of Southwell:
A _carrier_ who _carried_ his can to his mouth well;
He _carried_ so much, and he _carried_ so fast,
He could _carry_ no more, so was _carried_ at last;
For the liquor he drank being too much for one,
He could not _carry_ off, so he’s now _carrion_.
Charles Churchill, the author of the _Rosciad_, was a sad drunkard.
The caricature drawn of him by Hogarth will be remembered. A number
of them had met as usual at their whist club in the _Bedford Arms_
parlour. There it was that Churchill insulted Hogarth, called him a
‘very shallow fellow,’ and afterwards in writing derided the man,
his productions, and his belongings. Hogarth revenged the sneer. He
converted an old copper-plate into a palimpsest, on which he drew a
caricature of Churchill as a growling bear with the ragged canonicals
of a parson (for such the poet had been), a pot of porter by his side,
and a ragged staff in his paw, each knot inscribed ‘lye.’
Theodore Hook was a highly convivial man. In a memoir of this once
popular man, it is stated that the disorder under which he long
laboured arose from a diseased state of the liver and stomach, brought
on partly by anxiety, but chiefly, it is to be feared, by that habit of
over indulgence at table, the curse of colonial life. (At the instance
of the Prince Regent he had obtained a Government appointment in the
Mauritius.)
A stanza of his own composition reveals in brief the man:--
Then now I’m resolved at all sorrows to blink--
Since winking’s the tippy I’ll tip ‘em the wink,
I’ll never get drunk when I cannot get drink,
Nor ever let misery bore me.
I sneer at the Fates, and I laugh at their spite,
I sit down contented to sit up all night,
And when my time comes, from the world take my flight,
For--my father did so before me.[226]
The name of Charles Lamb will naturally suggest itself. Of him one
would fain observe silence in this connection. He must at any rate
speak for himself: ‘A small eater but not drinker.’ He acknowledges
a partiality for the production of the juniper. This would probably
prepossess Hazlitt, who observes in his _Thoughts and Maxims_: ‘We
like a convivial character better than an abstemious one, because the
idea of conviviality in the first instance is pleasanter than that of
sobriety.’ Lamb considered it a great qualification in his father that
he made punch better than any man of his degree in England. C. Lamb was
a schoolfellow of S. T. Coleridge, and something more--a friend, not
of a day, but of a life. Severed during the University career of the
Lake poet, the friendship was maintained by occasional visits of the
latter to town, where at the _Salutation and Cat_, they supped, heard
the midnight chimes, and possibly heard the clock strike one several
times, in the little smoky room now historical. More than twenty years
passed, and Lamb is found dedicating his works, then first collected,
to the same old friend. Meantime, countless letters pass between them;
on Lamb’s part the lower side of the convivial blending too freely with
the literary. Does he anticipate a visit to his friend? The joy is
infinitely heightened by the prospect of the tavern and the ‘egg-hot.’
Nor does he blush to confess ‘I am writing at random, and half tipsy.’
In his _The Old Familiar Faces_, he writes:--
I have been laughing, I have been carousing,
Drinking late, sitting late, with my bosom-cronies,
All, all are gone, the old familiar faces.
Reference need not be made to that terribly tragical dissertation in
his incomparable _Essays of Elia_, entitled _The Confessions of a
Drunkard_. The passage which begins: ‘The waters have gone over me,
but out of the dark depths could I be heard, I would cry out to all
those who have set foot on that perilous flood,’ is familiar to most
lovers of literature. But whether the dismal language is the mirror of
his own experience, may remain a moot point. However, facts contradict
the assertion of Barry Cornwall, that ‘much injustice has been done to
Lamb, by accusing him of excess in drinking,’ and Hazlitt was perfectly
justified in unequivocally stating what he had taken scrupulous pains
to verify. Thus much admitted, we may endorse the sentiment expressed
so feelingly:--
We admire his genius; we love the kind nature which appears in all
his writings; and we cherish his memory as much as if we had known
him personally.[227]
From the social man of letters, we turn to one who moved in a far wider
circle; who, in Byron’s opinion, wrote the best comedy, the best opera,
the best farce, the best address, and delivered the very best oration
ever conceived or heard in this country--Richard Brinsley Sheridan.
He, like Lamb, can be judged out of his own mouth. It was he who with
piquant humour declared that he could drink with advantage any _given_
quantity of wine. Wine, says his biographer, Tom Moore, was one of his
favourite helps to inspiration: ‘If the thought (he would say) is slow
to come, a glass of good wine encourages it, and when it _does_ come, a
glass of good wine rewards it.’ To the same effect, Leigh Hunt remarks:
‘His table songs are always admirable. When he was drinking wine he
was thoroughly in earnest.’ Lady Holland, at whose house Sheridan was
a constant guest, told Moore that he used to take a bottle of wine and
a book up to bed with him always; the _former_ alone intended for use.
He took spirits with his morning tea or coffee, and on his way from
Holland House to town, invariably stopped at the old roadside inn, the
_Adam and Eve_, where he ran up a long bill which Lord Holland was left
the privilege of paying.
In the very amusing and instructive _Reminiscences of Captain Gronow_,
speaking of Sheridan’s prosperity, the author urges:--
Many of the follies and extravagances that marked the life of this
gifted but reckless personage must be attributed to the times in
which he existed. Drinking was the fashion of the day. The Prince
[Regent], Mr. Pitt, Dundas, the Lord Chancellor Eldon, and many
others who gave the tone to society, would, if they now appeared
at an evening party, ‘as was their custom of an afternoon,’ be
pronounced fit for nothing but bed. A three-bottle man was not an
unusual guest at a fashionable table; and the night was invariably
spent in drinking bad port wine to an enormous extent.
The same writer observes:--
Drinking and play were more universally indulged in then [about
1814] than at the present time, and many men still living must
remember the couple of bottles of port at least which accompanied
his dinner in those days.... The dinner-party, commencing at seven
or eight, frequently did not break up before one in the morning.
There were then four and even five-bottle men; and the only thing
that saved them was drinking very slowly, and out of very small
glasses. The learned head of the law, Lord Eldon, and his brother
Lord Stowell, used to say that they had drunk more bad port than
any two men in England; indeed, the former was rather apt to be
overtaken, and to speak occasionally somewhat thicker than natural
after long and heavy potations. The late Lords Panmure, Dufferin,
and Blayney, wonderful to relate, were six-bottle men at this time;
and I really think that if the good society of 1815 could appear
before their more moderate descendants, in the state they were
generally reduced to after dinner, the moderns would pronounce
their ancestors fit for nothing but bed.
Sheridan’s success in life, as well as his attachment to party, was
mainly owing to his connection with one of whom we shall next speak,
viz. Charles James Fox. A few months after his first appointment to
office, Walpole went to the House to hear the young orator, and he
tells us--
Fox’s abilities are amazing at so very early a period, especially
under the circumstances of such a dissolute life. He was just
arrived from Newmarket, had sat up drinking all night, and had not
been in bed.
More than once is he said to have taken his place in the House of
Commons in a state of absolute intoxication.
Mr. George Otto Trevelyan, M.P., gives in his _Early History of
Charles James Fox_ a very bad picture of the drinking habits of great
men in England at that period.
These were the days when the Duke of Grafton, the Premier, lived
openly with Miss Nancy Parsons. _Rigby_, the Paymaster of the
Forces, had only one merit, that he drank fair. He used brandy as
the rest of the world used small beer. _Lord Weymouth_, grandson of
Lord Cartaret, had more than his grandfather’s capacity for liquor,
and a fair portion of his abilities. He constantly boozed till
daylight, even when a Secretary of State. His occasional speeches
were extolled by his admirers as preternaturally sagacious, and
his severest critics admitted them to be pithy. Walpole made the
following smart hit at him: ‘If I paid nobody, and went drunk to
bed every morning at six, I might expect to be called out of bed
by two in the afternoon to save the nation, and govern the House
of Lords by two or three sentences as profound and short as the
proverbs of Solomon.’ ‘They tell me, Sir John,’ said George the
Third to one of his favourites, ‘that you love a glass of wine.’
‘Those who have so informed your Majesty,’ was the reply, ‘have
done me great injustice; they should have said a bottle.’ ‘Two
of the friends of Philip Francis, without any sense of having
performed an exceptional feat, finished between them a gallon and
a half of Champagne and Burgundy, a debauch which in this unheroic
age it almost makes one ill to read of.’
The sobriety of Pitt has been the subject of much debate. Mr.
Jeaffreson has well said that free livers delight to attribute their
own failings to great people who are free from them. Till Lord Stanhope
relieved Pitt’s fame of groundless aspersions of intemperance, it
suffered from drunken epigrams, and the idle tales of pot-loving
detractors. Of the former, the following is a specimen:--
On folly every fool his talent tries;
It needs some toil to imitate the wise;
Though few like Fox can speak--like Pitt can think,
Yet all like Fox can game--like Pitt can drink.
Perhaps no form of detraction is so insidious as caricature, and Pitt
was its sport. The pencil of Gillray was busy in 1788 with a caricature
entitled, _Market Day--Every Man has His Price_. The Ministerial
supporters are represented as horned cattle exposed for sale. The scene
is laid in Smithfield. At the window of a public-house adjoining appear
Pitt and Dundas, a jovial pair drinking and smoking.
Again, when the dearth of 1795 was just beginning, a print by the same
Gillray represents a convivial scene at Pitt’s country house. It is
entitled, ‘_God save the King! in a bumper; or, an Evening Scene three
times a Week at Wimbleton_.’ Pitt is trying to fill his glass from the
wrong end of the bottle, while his companion, grasping pipe and bumper,
ejaculates the words, ‘Billy, my boy--all my joy!’
Still there is an element of truth underlying both epigram and
burlesque; but, having admitted this, we may assert that his wont
formed a contrast to the wild habits of many of his contemporaries,
and that with justice he was favourably compared by the Court with the
irregularities of Fox and his associates.
Professor Richard Porson was at one time a prominent figure in the
_Cider Cellars_ in Covent Garden. It was his nightly haunt. It was
there that one of his companions is said to have shouted in his
presence, ‘Dick can beat us all; he can drink all night and spout
all day.’ This sounds bad, but it must be remembered that Porson had
struggled long on the then miserable pittance attached to the Greek
Professorship at Cambridge, 40_l._ a year, and had suddenly obtained
the post of head librarian of the London Institution, with a salary
increased five-fold. He thus had facilities for indulgence, and with
them, possibly for a time, the appetite. An _habitual_ drunkard he
was not. Like Johnson, he could practise abstinence more easily than
temperance. He lived in days when the leading statesmen and politicians
were not ashamed of being seen under the influence of wine, and
though Porson has been vilified for his occasional intemperance, it
may, without much hesitation, be affirmed that it was his reforming
principles in Church and State that brought much of the obloquy upon
him.
Thomson, the author of the _Seasons_, was a convivial man.
Mrs. Hobart, Thomson’s housekeeper, often wished Quin dead, he made
her master drink so. He and Quin used to come sometimes from the
Castle together at four o’clock in a morning, and not over sober
you may be sure. When he was writing in his own house he frequently
sat with a bowl of punch before him, and that a good large one too.
The following anecdote is told of him:--
Mr. H. of Bangor said he was once asked to dinner by Thomson, but
could not attend. One of his friends who was there told him that
there was a general stipulation agreed on by the whole company,
that there should be no hard drinking. Thomson acquiesced, only
requiring that each man should drink his bottle. The terms were
accepted unconditionally, and when the cloth was removed a
three-quart bottle was set before each of his guests. Thomson had
much of this kind of agreeable humour.
His _Autumn_ came out in 1730, in which occur the lines:--
But first the fuel’d chimney blazes wide;
The tankards foam; and the strong table groans
Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch’d immense
From side to side; in which with desperate knife
The deep incision make, and talk the while
Of England’s glory, ne’er to be defaced
While hence they borrow vigour; or amain
Into the pasty plunged at intervals,
If stomach keen can intervals allow,
Relating all the glories of the chace.
Then sated Hunger bids his brother Thirst
Produce the mighty bowl; the mighty bowl,
Swell’d high with fiery juice, steams liberal round
A potent gale, delicious as the breath
Of Mäia to the love-sick shepherdess
On violets diffus’d, while soft she hears
Her panting shepherd stealing to her arms.
Nor wanting is the brown October, drawn
Mature and perfect from his dark retreat
Of thirty years; and now his honest front
Flames in the light refulgent, not afraid
Even with the vineyard’s best produce to vie.
* * * * *
At last these puling idlenesses laid
Aside, frequent and full the dry divan
Close in firm circle; and set ardent in
For serious drinking. Nor evasion sly,
Nor sober shift, is to the puking wretch
Indulg’d apart; but earnest brimming bowls
Lave every soul, the table floating round,
And pavement, faithless to the fuddled foot.
* * * * *
Before their maudlin eyes
Seen dim and blue the double tapers dance,
Like the sun wading through the misty sky.
Then sliding soft, they drop. Confus’d above
Glasses and bottles, pipes and gazeteers,
As if the table even itself was drunk,
Lie a wet broken scene; and wide below
Is heap’d the social slaughter: where astride
The lubber Power in filthy triumph sits
Slumbrous, inclining still from side to side,
And steeps them drench’d in potent sleep till morn.
Perhaps some doctor, of tremendous paunch
Awful and deep, a black abyss of drink,
Outlives them all; and from his buried flock
Retiring, full of rumination sad,
Laments the weakness of these latter times.
In _Autumn_, somewhat later, he sings the praises of _cider_:--
The piercing cider for the thirsty tongue;
Thy native theme and boon inspirer too,
Phillips, Pomona’s bard, the second thou
Who nobly durst in rhyme-unfetter’d verse
With British freedom sing the British song;
How from Silurian vats high-sparkling wines
Foam in transparent floods; some strong to cheer
The wintry revels of the labouring hind;
And tasteful some to cool the summer hours.
Again, we read a few lines later of the autumnal vintage:--
Round the raised nations pours the cup of joy:
The claret smooth, red as the lip we press
In sparkling fancy while we drain the bowl;
The mellow-tasted Burgundy; and quick
As is the wit it gives the gay champagne.
Wordsworth says of the _Seasons_:--‘Much of it is written from
himself.’ Probably this is true.
In 1798 was published a collection of the dramatic works of John
O’Keefe. In the following lines from his _Poor Soldier_ occurs a phrase
which has become household:--
Dear Tom, this brown jug that now foams with mild ale,
From which I now drink to sweet Nan of the Vale,
Was once Toby Filpot’s, a thirsty old soul
As e’er _cracked a bottle_ or fathomed a bowl.
The allusion is simply to drunken frolics, during which glass
was broken. Mr. Oldbuck says in the _Antiquary_:--‘We never were
glass-breakers in this house.’
In 1805 Robert Bloomfield published his rural poem, the _Farmer’s
Boy_. It is a very humorous and suggestive account of the manners
of clod-hopping England as engaged about the Harvest-home supper
in Suffolk and Norfolk, here entitled the _Horkey_. This has been
already discussed. Suffice it to add that Bloomfield’s charming little
provincial ballad, entitled, _The Horkey_, has been recently published
by Macmillan, and is abundantly illustrated.
But of all the marvellous issues from the press at the beginning
of the present century, nothing could be more monstrous than the
publication of a work entitled ‘_Ebrietatis Encomium; or, the Praise
of Drunkenness_, wherein is authentically and most evidently proved
the Necessity of Frequently Getting Drunk; and the Practise is most
ancient, primitive, and Catholick.’
The author, not unnaturally, thinks that some apology is needed in his
preface. He declares that he did not undertake the work on account of
any zeal he had for wine, but only to divert himself(!), and not to
lose a great many curious remarks he had made upon this most Catholic
liquid.