CHAPTER VIII.

PLANTAGENET PERIOD (_continued_).--EDWARD III. TO RICHARD III.

For a picture of the social life of the remainder of the fourteenth

century, we turn of necessity to one who was the ornament of two of

the most brilliant courts in the annals of England, viz. those of

Edward III. and his successor, Richard II. We are for ever indebted to

him for exquisite pictures of genuine English life and character in

its infinite phases. And it may be here noticed, as bearing upon our

subject, that this

_Geoffrey Chaucer_

was the son of a wine merchant; that by circumstance and ability he won

for himself the patronage of Edward III.; that he was made controller

of the customs of wine and wool in the port of London, and had a

pitcher of wine daily from the royal table. Towards the close of the

century he is supposed to have retired to pass the calm evening of

his active life at Woodstock, where he is said to have composed his

immortal _Canterbury Tales_.

The prologue, whether written by Chaucer or not, states that he was

going to pass the night at the Tabarde Inn, in Southwark, previous

to setting out on a pilgrimage to the shrine of Thomas à Becket at

Canterbury. A number of pilgrims, twenty-nine _sundry folk_, meet at

this hostelry in good fellowship. There they sup together; after which

‘mine hoste’ proposes that they shall journey together to Canterbury;

that, in order to beguile the way, each shall tell a tale to and

fro, and whoever tells the best shall have a supper at the expense

of the rest; of course at his hostelry. The company assent. ‘Mine

hoste’ is appointed judge and reporter of the stories. The pilgrims,

or characters composing the social party, are, to all intents, an

inventory of English society as it existed at that day. We seem

actually to see the daily life of each reflected in the marvellous

mirror. Allusions to drink abound. Thus, in the prologue, he describes

a _Prioress_, and her delicacy of manners at table, as becomes a

gentlewoman:--

Hire overlippè wiped she so clene,

That in hire cuppe was no ferthing sene

Of gresè, whan she dronken hadde hire draught.

He describes the _Frankelein_ or country gentleman, who was ambitious

of showing his riches by the profusion of his table, but whose

hospitality often degenerated into excess.

For he was Epicure’s owen sone,

That held opinion, that plein delit

Was veraily felicite parfite.

An householder, and that a grete was he;

Seint Julian he was in his contree.

His brede, his ale, was alway after on;

A better envyned man was no wher non.

* * * * *

It snewed in his hous of mete and drinke.

London ale must have been then in repute, for among the

accomplishments of one of the party who was less a pilgrim than a cook,

it is noted:--

Well coude he knowe a draught of London ale.

Thomas Tyrwhitt, in a note on this line, remarks, ‘Whether this was a

different sort of ale from that of the provinces, or only better made,

I know not; but it appears to have been in request about a century

after Chaucer. In the account of the feast of Archbishop Warham, in

1504, we find that London ale was higher priced than Kentish by 5_s._ a

barrel.’

The true British sailor of Chaucer’s time exhibited nearly the same

strong traits as our own brave tars. That his conscience was not too

finely drawn appears in his conduct at Bordeaux, where he drew full

many a draught of wine while the chapman slept:--

The hote sommer hadde made his hewe al broun,

And certainly he was a good felaw.

Full many a draught of win he hadde draw

From Burdeux ward, while that the chapman slepe;

Of nice conscience toke he no kepe.

The description of the Sompnour, or Ecclesiastical Apparitor, is not an

inviting one. Church officials _temp._ Chaucer were not all they might

have been.

A sompnour was ther with us in that place, 625

That hadde a fire-red cherubinnés face,

For sausefleme he was, with eyen narwe;

As hote he was, and likerous as a sparwe,

With scalled browes blake, and pilled berd:

Of his visage children were sore aferd. 630

* * * * *

Wel loved he garlike, onions, and lekes, 636

And for to drinke strong win as rede as blood.

Than wolde he speke, and crie as he were wood.

And whan that he wel dronken had the win,

Than wold he speken no word but Latin. 640

A fewe termes coude he, two or three,

That he had lerned out of som decree;

No wonder is, he herd it all the day.

And eke ye knowen wel, how that a jay

Can clepen watte, as wel as can the pope. 645

But who so wolde in other thing him grope,

Than hadde he spent all his philosophie,

Ay, _Quæstio quid juris_, wolde he crie. 648

Among others of the Sompnour’s iniquities which the poet lashes was

his sale of silence. He would countenance the worst deviation from

rectitude for a quart of wine. Quotation is withheld.

Before the pilgrims started from the Tabarde Inn, they had well drunk,

as appears from Prologue, lines 749-752.

Gret chere made oure hoste us everich on,

And to the souper sette he us anon:

And served us with vitaille of the beste;

Strong was the win, and wel to drinke us leste.

Nor was this all. After some conversation with mine host, and certain

suggestions made by him as to their behaviour on the way, we read in

Prologue, lines 819-823:--

Thus by on assent

We ben accorded to his jugement,

And therupon the win was fette anon.

We dronken, and to reste wenten eche on,

Withouten any lenger tarying.

It was just as well they did.

Pass we on to the _Canterbury Tales_ themselves. There is nothing in

the Knighte’s Tale, as indeed we should have expected nothing from this

‘veray parfit gentil knight,’ apropos of our subject. But directly

the Knighte’s Tale was ended, and mine host had requested the Monk to

follow suit, the Miller strikes in, and insists on telling his tale, a

very improper one indeed. This is the description of the drunken miller

and his conduct--

The Miller that for-dronken was all pale, 3123

So that unethes upon his hors he sat,

He n’old avalen neither hood ne hat, 3125

Ne abiden no man for his curtesie,

But in Pilates vois he gan to crie,

And swore by armes, and by blood, and bones,

I can a noble tale for the nones,

With which I wol now quite the knightes tale. 3130

Our Hoste saw that he was dronken of ale,

And sayd; abide, Robin, my leve brother,

Som better man shall tell us first another:

Abide, and let us werken thriftily.

By Goddes soule (quod he) that wol not I, 3135

For I wol speke, or elles go my way.

Our Hoste answerd; Tell on a devil way;

Thou art a fool; thy wit is overcome.

Now herkeneth, quod the Miller, all and some:

But first I make a protestatioun, 3140

That I am dronke, I know it by my soun;

And therefore if that I misspeke or say,

Wite it the ale of Southwerk, I you pray. 3143

There is nothing very specially to the point in the Millere’s Tale,

but one or two facts show the universal part that drink played in the

period. Thus when Absalom, the parish clerk, wishes to ingratiate

himself with Alison, the carpenter’s wife,

He sent hire pinnes, methe, and spiced ale,

And wafres piping hot out of the glede:

And for she was of toun, he profered mede.

Lines 3378-3380.

or can the carpenter and his lodger carry on a conversation without

the introduction of ‘a large quart of mighty ale’ (line 3497).

The Reve’s Tale, which is probably founded upon a similar story in the

_Decameron_ of Boccaccio, largely turns upon drink--_e.g._, two Cantabs

are going to sup and sleep at the miller’s:--

The miller the toun his doughter send 4134

For ale and bred, and roasted hem a goos, 4135

* * * * *

They soupen, and they speken of solace, 4144

And drinken ever strong ale at the best. 4145

Abouten midnight wente they to rest.

But not, as we are told in a later verse, till ‘that dronken was all

in the crouke,’ by which time all of the party had had too much. Their

condition is described:--

Wel hath this miller vernished his hed,

Ful pale he was, for-dronken, and nought red.

He yoxeth, and he speketh thurgh the nose,

As he were on the quakke, or on the pose. 4150

To bed he goth, and with him goth his wif;

As any jay she light was and jolif,

So was hire joly whistle wel ywette. 4153

* * * * *

This miller hath so wisly bibbed ale, 4160

That as an hors he snorteth in his slepe.

In the Man of Lawes Tale we have the account of a messager being so

drunk that, ‘while he slept as a swine,’ his letters were stolen from

him by the king’s mother, and changed to spite her daughter-in-law. His

orgies are thus described:--

This messager drank sadly ale and wine, 5163

* * * * *

He dranke, and wel his girdel underfight. 5209

Our poet thus apostrophises the sorry fellow:--

O messager, fulfilled of dronkenesse, 5191

Strong is thy breth, thy limmes faltren ay,

And thou bewreiest alle secrenesse;

Thy mind is lorne, thou janglest as a jay;

Thy face is tourned in a new array; 5195

Ther dronkenesse regneth in any route,

Ther is no conseil hid withouten doute. 5197

A virtuous mediæval commentator has written in the margin of a MS.

copy of Chaucer in the Cambridge Library the following excellent Latin

remarks:--

_O messager._ ‘Quid turpius ebrioso, cui fœtor in ore, tremor in

corpore; qui promit stulta, prodit occulta; cui mens alienatur, facies

transformatur; nullum enim latet secretum ubi regnat ebrietas.’

_Query_--Are these words merely the commentator’s effusion and outcome,

or are they a quotation from some Latin writer? If the latter, they

would probably have been the basis of Chaucer’s lines here. They say a

good deal in a few words.

The ‘Wif of Bathe’ is one of Chaucer’s equivocal characters. Her

remarks are usually incisive. Her attainments, upon her own confession,

were mainly dependent on the brimming cup; as in the lines--

Tho coude I dancen to an harpe smale,

And sing ywis as any nightingale,

When I had dronke a draught of swete wine.

The same impression is produced in the engravings of the lady in

Knight’s _Old England_. Chaucer continues:--

Metellius, the foule cherle, the swine,

That with a staf beraft his wif hire lif,

For she drank wine, though I had been his wif,

Ne shuld he not have daunted me fro drinke.

The story about Metellius beating his wife for drinking is told by

Pliny (_Nat. Hist._ xiv. 13) of one Mecenius, but Chaucer probably

followed Valerius Maximus (vi. 3).

A little further on is a line full of truth--

In woman vinolent is no defence,

which may have been suggested by the couplet in _Romaunt de la Rose_:--

Car puisque femme est enyvrée

Et n’a point en soy de deffence.

The Sompnour, or, in other words, the summoner (so called from

delivering the summonses of the archdeacons), vows vengeance on

the Frere (friar) for telling a tale so palpably levelled at his

profession, and, giving him a Roland for his Oliver, thus describes the

Frere of the period:--

Fie on hir pompe, and on hir glotonie,

And on hir lewednesse; I hem defie. 7510

Me thinketh they ben like Jovinian,

Fat as a whale, and walken as a swan

Al vinolent as botel in the spence;

Hir praier is of ful gret reverence;

Whan they for soules say the Psalm of Davit, 7515

Lo, buf they say, _cor meum eructavit_.

Tyrwhitt informs us that Jovinian was ‘perhaps the supposed emperour

of that name in the _Gesta Romanorum_, c. lix., whose story was worked

up into a _Morality_, under the title of “_L’orgueil et présomption de

l’Empereur Jovinien_--à 19 Personages.”’

The following lines, still from the Sompnour’s Tale, are not Chaucer’s

own, but a quotation or paraphrase from Seneca:--

A lord is lost if he be vicious 7630

And dronkennesse is eke a foule record

Of any man, and namely of a lord. 7632

* * * * *

For goddes love drinke more attemprely. 7635

Win maketh man to lesen wretchedly

His mind, and eke his limmes everich on. 7637

The Marchante’s Tale abounds with allusions. Wine played no unimportant

part at the marriage of January and May. It was not spared at the

wedding. As we read in line 9596:

Bacchus the win hem skinketh al aboute.

The aged bridegroom primed himself by its aid--

He drinketh Ipocras, clarré, and vernage

Of spices hot, to encresen his corage.

Lines 9681, 9682.

And in the morning when ‘that the day gan dawe,’ we read that ‘then he

taketh a sop in fine clarré’--line 9717.

All this, no doubt, is drawn from the marriage customs of Chaucer’s

days.

In these times of luxury and excess what an example does the ‘poure

widewe’ furnish in the Nonnes Prestes Tale. Truly idyllic!--

Full sooty was hire boure, and eke hire halle,

In which she ete many a slender mele.

Of poinant sauce ne knew she never a dele.

No deintee morsel passed thurgh hire throte;

Hire diete was accordant to hire cote.

Repletion ne made hire never sike;

Attempre diete was all hire physike,

And exercise, and hertes suffisance.

The goute let hire nothing for to dance,

No apoplexie shente not hire hed.

No win ne dranke she, neyther white ne red:

Hire bord was served most with white and black,

Milk and broun bred, in which she fond no lack,

Seinde bacon, and somtime an ey or twey;

For she was as it were a maner dey.

Could she have divined that one day Professor Mayor would give to the

world ‘Modicus cibi medicussibi’?

In the Manciple’s Prologue we find the following lines. The Manciple is

chaffing the ‘coke’ for having had too much to drink. _Inter alia_, he

remarks, lines 16993, 16994:--

I trow that ye have dronken win of ape,

And that is whan men playen with a straw.

These are worth quoting for the sake of Tyrwhitt’s note on 16993.

‘_Wine of ape_,’ he says, ‘I understood to mean the same as _vin

de singe_ in the old _Calendrier des Bergiers_. Sign 1. ii. b. The

author is treating of physiognomy, and in his description of the four

temperaments he mentions, among other circumstances, the different

effects of wine upon them. The choleric, he says, _a vin de Lyon;

cest a dire, quant a bien beu veult tanser, noyser et battre_. The

sanguine _a vin de singe; quant a plus beu tant est plus joyeux_. In

the same manner the phlegmatic is said to have _vin de mouton_, and the

melancholick _vin de porceau_.’

In the Manciple’s Prologue, lines 17043 to 17050, we have the following

praise of wine as a reconciler:--

Then gan our hoste to laughen wonder loude,

And sayd: I see wel it is necessary

Wher that we gon good drinke with us to cary;

For that wol turnen rancour and disese

To accord and love, and many a wrong apese.

O Bacchus, Bacchus, blessed be thy name,

That so canst turnen ernest into game:

Worship and thonke be to thy deitee.

If _Laudibus arguitur vini vinosus Homerus_ be a true rule, we might

say that Chaucer liked his glass.

In the Persones Tale, under heading _De Gulâ_, we read, ‘After avarice

cometh glotonie, which is expresse agenst the commandement of God.

Glotonie is unmesurable appetit to ete or to drinke.... This sinne hath

many spices. The first is dronkennesse, that is the horrible sepulture

of manne’s reson: and this is dedly sinne.’

The Rime of Sire Thopas is tantalising. It breaks off just as we are

assured that Sire Thopas

Himself drank water of the well,

As did the knight Sire Percivell

So worthy under wede,

Till on a day----

_Hiatus valde deflendus!_ Yet we find with strange inconsistency in

lines 13801-13803--

And ther he swore on ale and bred

How that the geaunt should be ded,

Betide what so betide.

Lines 13693, 13694 show the early use of the nutmeg with liquor--

And notemuge to put in ale,

Whether it be moist or stale:

as in the old song--

What gave thee that jolly red nose?

Nutmegs and cloves.

This ample history of manners from one of our greatest poets scarcely

needs to be supplemented. Indeed, little can be added even from that

withering satire of Robert Longlande, entitled the _Vision of Pierce

Plowman_, who, lashing everybody, did not spare the corruptions of

the Church. To this _vision_ has been commonly annexed a poem, called

‘Pierce the Plowman’s Crede,’ a satire on the Mendicant Friars. These

last had sprung up in the preceding century. They were, indeed, a

necessity of the time, so far had the monastic orders degenerated from

their primitive simplicity, so wholly were they abandoned to luxury

and indolence. In the following lines of the ‘Crede’ a Franciscan is

defending his order:--

Of al men upon mold we Minorites most sheweth

The pure Aposteles lif, with penance on erthe,

And suen [follow] hem in sanctite, and sufferen wel harde.

We haunten not tavernes, ne hobelen abonten

At marketes and miracles we medeley us never.

The Early English Text Society has done good service in publishing one

of the many mediæval handbooks of the same kind, called _Instructions

for Parish Priests_. The book is by John Myrk, a canon regular of St.

Austin. Amongst these instructions the priest is bidden to eschew

drunkenness, gluttony, pride, sloth, and envy. He must keep from

taverns, trading, wrestling, shooting, hunting, hawking, and dancing.

Dr. Cutts infers from Chaucer’s description of the poor parson of a

town, that these instructions were not thrown away upon the mediæval

parish priests.

The legislation of the fourteenth century, so far as it concerns our

subject, was of an in-and-out character. It enacted and repealed,

repealed and enacted. In 1330 it was ordained: ‘Because there are more

taverners in the realm than were wont to be, selling as well corrupt

wines as wholesome, and have sold the gallon at such price as they

themselves would, because there was no punishment ordained for them,

as hath been for them that sell bread and ale, to the great hurt of

the people,’ that wine must be sold at reasonable prices, and that the

wines should be tested twice a year--at Easter and Michaelmas, oftener

if needful--and corrupt wines poured out, and the vessels broken.

In 1338 wine was taxed, on a great emergency. Edward III. wanted a

vast sum to pay the subsidies which he had granted to his foreign

allies. The great men granted him a moiety of their wool, which sold

for 400,000_l._; besides a duty of 2_s._ a tun upon wine, added to the

usual customs paid by all foreign merchants.

The preamble of the Act of 1365 deserves special attention:--‘The King

wills of his grace and sufferance that all merchant denizens that be

not artificers, shall pass into Gascoign to fetch wines thence, to the

end and intent that by this general licence greater liberty may come,

and greater market may be of wines within the realm; and that the

Gascoigns and other aliens may come into the realm with their wines,

and freely sell them without any disturbance or impeachment.’

By the 42nd Edward III., c. 8, rigour was again imposed, and wines

forbidden to be brought into England save by Gascons and other aliens.

In the next year the previous Act was renewed at the request of his son

the Prince, who found the subsidies and customs of wines diminished in

his principality of Aquitaine, by reason of the falling off of the wine

trade with England. A revival of the trade ensued. Froissart states

that in 1372 a fleet arrived at Bordeaux from England of not less than

two hundred sail of merchantmen in quest of wines.

In 1378 foreigners were allowed to sell wine in gross but not in retail.

The same contradictions manifest themselves in the Acts of Richard

II.’s reign as in those of his predecessor; _e.g._--

In 1381 no sweet wines or claret could be sold retail. In the following

year the price of foreign wines was again regulated. It was enacted

that the best wines of Gascony, Osey, and Spain, and Rhenish wines

should be sold for 100 shillings, and the best Rochelle wines at 6

marks the tun; and by retail, the former at 6_d._, the latter at 4_d._,

a gallon. Marvellous to relate, Holinshed states that, before the close

of the reign, so abundant was the article that it was sold at the

maximum price of 20_s._ a tun.

In 1387, it was enacted that no wine be carried _out_ of the realm.

It is curious to observe how our sumptuary laws recognised certain

seasons, and exempted them from their operation. Christmas, for

example, had not only been set apart for sacred observance, but had

become a time of feasting and revelry. When Edward III., in his tenth

year, tried to restrain his subjects from over luxury, exception was

made in the case of the great feasts of the year--‘La veile et le jour

de Noel, le jour de Saint Estiephne, le jour de l’an renoef [New Year’s

Day], les jours de la Tiphaynei et de la Purification de Notre Dame.’

We have already found that attention was drawn to taverns in the time

of Edward I. In the reign of Edward III. only three taverns were

allowed in the metropolis. Publicans were already compelled by law to

put up a sign. Thus, in 1393, Florence North, a Chelsea brewer, was

‘presented’ for not putting up the usual sign. The penalty was the

forfeiture of their ale. With other trades it was optional. Conversely,

the taking away of a publican’s licence was accompanied by the removal

of his sign--

For this gross fault I here do damn thy licence,

Forbidding thee ever to tap or draw;

For instantly I will in mine own person

Command the constables to pull down thy sign.[77]

By the gradual institution of _inns_, where travellers could obtain

food and lodging, the old methods of hospitality began to pass away.

‘The convenient chamber for guests,’ which we find in the inventories

of a country parson’s house in the middle ages, was becoming a relic of

the past. This, and the more public _hospitium_, or guest-house, within

the walls of the monasteries, had for ages furnished the shelter and

provender which could only thus be gotten.

In the time of Richard II. the Little Park at Windsor was used as a

vineyard for home consumption. Thus Stowe (_Chronicle_, p. 143) says

that among the archives of the Court of Pleas of the Forest and Honours

at Windsor, is to be seen the ‘yearly account of the charges of the

planting of the vines that in the time of Richard II. grew in great

plenty within the Little Park, as also the making of the wine itself,

whereof some part was spent in the king’s house, and some part sold to

his profit, the tithes whereof were paid to the Abbot of Waltham.’

But the inutility of home vineyards is demonstrated from the cheapness

of foreign wines at this time. In 1342 the price of Gascon wines in

London was 4_d._, and that of Rhenish, 6_d._ per gallon; and in 1389,

foreign wine was only 20_s._ per tun for the best, and 13_s._ 4_d._ for

the second--that is, about three halfpence a dozen.

But to turn to the king himself. The pageant, or royal entertainment,

on the accession of Richard II. is described by the chronicler

Walsingham. The city was most richly adorned, and the conduits ran

with wine for three hours. In the upper end of the Cheap was erected

a castle with four towers, on two sides of which ran forth wine

abundantly. In the towers were placed four beautiful girls dressed

in white, who, on the king’s approach, blew in his face leaves of

gold, and filling cups of gold with wine at the spouts of the castle,

presented them to the king and his nobles.

The citizens had signified their joy in much the same way before, when

Edward I. returned from the Holy Land. Maitland, in his _London_,

seems to have regarded with wonder the fact that the very conduits

in the streets through which the cavalcade passed ran with wine; but

it happened before, and happened very often afterwards. Mr. Morewood

(_Hist. Ineb. Liq._) fell into the same error, and exclaims, ‘To this

extravagance there are few parallels, except that of Polemkin, when he

gave a magnificent feast to the Empress Catherine, at his palace in the

Taurida, when the conservatory fountains were filled with champagne and

claret, and served to the company by means of silver pumps applied to

those reservoirs.’

The king was young when he came to the throne, extravagant, and fond of

luxury. His Christmases seem to have been kept with especial splendour,

and this to the very close of his unfortunate reign. In 1399 there was

a royal Christmas at Westminster, when the consumption was prodigious.

In the previous Christmas, at Lichfield, where the pope’s nuncio and

other foreigners were present, they got rid of two hundred tuns of wine

and two thousand oxen. But the king had a profligate set about him--De

la Pole, De Vere, &c.; while he was grossly misled by the advice of

Robert Tresylian, his Chief Justice of the King’s Bench; and no better

epitome of the king’s ill star can be given than a stanza from the

tragedy of _The Fall of Robert Tresylian_ (1388):

Thus the king, outleaping the limits of his law,

Not reigning but raging, as youth did him entice,

Wise and worthy persons from court did daily draw,

Sage counsel set at nought, proud vaunters were in price,

And roisters bear the rule, which wasted all in vice:

Of riot and excess grew scarcity and lack,

Of lacking came taxing, and so went wealth to rack.

Henry IV. came to the throne in 1399. A pageant of the kind already

mentioned was held. Froissart notices that there were seven fountains

in Cheapside, and other streets he passed through, which perpetually

ran with white and red wines. Profusion reigned supreme in high

quarters; among the articles which furnished the breakfast table of

the nobility were--for a gentleman and his lady, in Lent, a quart of

beer and the same quantity of wine. And a gallon of beer and a quart of

wine at their _liveries_, a repast taken in their bedrooms immediately

before going to roost.

In looking through bills of entertainments at this period, one cannot

help observing the contrast between the relative costs of the meats and

drinks then and now. Then, the wine, ale, &c., were about one third of

the entire cost, now the drink is oftener much the heavier item. This

would be misleading, did we not take into consideration how much strong

drink is made to yield to the revenue. The relative price of meats and

drinks at that time wholly differ from the present relation. But wine

was gradually becoming a dearer commodity. Malmsey in the reign of

Henry IV. used to fetch the average price of 280 gallons for 5_l._ That

sum would scarcely have bought half the amount in the reign of Richard

III.

The dissipated life led by the youth of the time appears in the

reminiscences of the poet Occleve of his own conduct. If youth needs

a warning against folly, he can do little better than study _La male

regie de T. Hoccleve_, or _Occleve’s Misrule_. The tavern sign was to

him an irresistible temptation. Westminster Gate was then noted for its

taverns and cook-shops, at which the lavishness of Occleve made him a

welcome guest. To this he alludes--

Wher was a greater maister eek than Y,

Or bet acqweynted at Westmynster Gate,

Among the taverners namely (especially)

And cookes? Whan I cam, eerly or late,

I pynchid nat at hem in mine acate (purchase of provisions),

But paied hem as they axe wolde;

Wherfore I was the welcomer algate (always),

And for a verray gentilman yholde (regarded).

And again--

The outward sign of Bacchus and his lure

That at his doore hangeth day by day,

Exciteth folks to taste of his moisture

So often that men cannot well say nay.

Of him that haunteth tavern of custume,

In shorte wordes the profit is this,

In double wise: His bag it shall consume,

And make his tonge speak of folk amis;

For in the cuppe seldom founden is

That any wight his neighbour commendeth.

Behold and see what avantage is his

That God, his friend, and eke himself offendeth

* * * * *

Now let this smart warninge to thee be,

And if thou mayst hereafter be relieved

Of body and pursé, so thou guidé thee

By wit that thou no moré thus be grieved.

What riot is, thou tasted hast and preeved.

The fire, men sayn, he dreadeth that is brent;

And if thou so do, thou art well y--meeved (moved),

Be now no longer fool, by mine assent.

Notwithstanding the arguments adduced by a modern historian to the

contrary, the weight of evidence is overwhelming that the early life

of Henry V. was a course of dissipation. His active spirit (in the

language of Hume) broke out in extravagances of every kind; and the

riot of pleasure, the frolic of debauchery, the outrage of the wine,

filled the vacancies of a mind better adapted to the pursuits of

ambition and the cares of government. Shakespeare puts into the mouth

of Henry IV. the reflection upon his son--

Whilst I ...

See riot and dishonor stain the brow

Of my young Harry.

The abandoned Falstaff looked at the matter from another point of view,

of course. He is represented as saying, ‘Hereof comes it, that Prince

Harry is valiant; for the cold blood he did naturally inherit of his

father, he hath, like lean, steril, and bare land, manured, husbanded,

and tilled with excellent endeavor of drinking good, and good store

of fertile sherris, that he is become very hot and valiant. If I had

a thousand sons, the first human principle I would teach them should

be, to forswear their potations, and addict themselves to sack.’ Yet

even Falstaff could tell the truth sometimes, for in the early part of

the same sentence, amidst a hurricane of rubbish, he tells that wine

makes the blood ‘course from the inwards to the parts extreme.’ One

fancies one is reading Dr. B. W. Richardson as he tells, ‘wine propels

the blood violently _from the heart_ to the extremities.’ But Henry

V. found place for repentance. His life as king was widely different

from his life as prince. Among his troops at Agincourt drunkenness was

counted a disgrace. So impressed was he with the bane of it, that he

would gladly have cut down all the vines in France.

In the _Liber Albus_, compiled in this reign by John Carpenter, common

clerk, and Richard Whittington, mayor, appears in full the oath of the

_ale-conners_. These were officers appointed to look after the quality

of ale, beer, and bread, to whom allusion is made in the _Cobler of

Canterburie_:--

A nose he had that gan show

What liquor he loved I trow;

For he had before long seven yeare,

Beene of the towne the _ale-conner_.

The following is the oath--

You shall swear, that you shall know of no brewer or brewster,

cook, or pie-baker, in your ward, who sells the gallon of best ale

for more than one penny halfpenny, or the gallon of second for more

than one penny, or otherwise than by measure sealed and full of

clear ale; or who brews less than he used to do before this cry, by

reason hereof, or withdraws himself from following his trade the

rather by reason of this cry; or if any persons shall do contrary

to any one of these points, you shall certify the Alderman of your

ward [thereof] and of their names. And that you, so soon as you

shall be required to taste any ale of a brewer or brewster, shall

be ready to do the same; and in case that it be less good than it

used to be before this cry, you, by assent of your Alderman, shall

set a reasonable price thereon, according to your discretion; and

if any one shall afterwards sell the same above the said price,

unto your said Alderman you shall certify the same. And that for

gift, promise, knowledge, hate, or other cause whatsoever, no

brewer, brewster, huckster, cook, or pie-baker, who acts against

any one of the points aforesaid, you shall conceal, spare, or

tortuously aggrieve; nor when you are required to taste ale, shall

absent yourself without reasonable cause and true; but all things

which unto your office pertain to do, you shall well and lawfully

do.--So God you help, and the saints.

So it is to be feared that there were some black sheep in the trade

then, as now. Others certainly not so, for in this same fifteenth

century we find that a licence was granted to John Calcot, landlord of

the ‘Chequers,’ a tavern in Calcot’s Alley, Lambeth, to have an oratory

in the house, and a chaplain for the use of his family and guests, so

long as the house should continue orderly and respectable, and _adapted

to the celebration of Divine service_.[78]

The jurisdiction of the ale-conners extended to offences of omission as

well as commission. Thus we find them presenting one Thomas Cokesale,

for refusing to sell ale to his neighbours while he had some on sale,

and even while the sign (the ale-stake) was out. He was fined 4_d._

On the other hand, in 1461, one Lentroppe was presented for having,

contrary to the order, brewed three times under one display of the

sign or ale-stake. For this he had to pay 6_d._ The man offended by

brewing three times, and only making one signal of brewing. This, if

he had not been detected, would have enabled him to sell two brewings

without the liquor having been tasted by the proper officers, and the

public might have had ale sold to them ‘not sufficiently mighty of the

corn, or wholesome for man’s body.’[79] Another local law, mentioned in

Scrope’s _History of Castle Combe_, was that no one was to brew in 1461

at the same time as the Churchwardens were brewing the church-ale for

the profit of the church, under pain of 13_s._ 4_d._; nor to brew or

sell till all the ale brewed for the church was entirely sold. This was

brewed for the benefit of the common fund for the _relief_ of the poor

in 1590. We pause here to consider the institution known as a

_Church-ale_,

of which _Easter-ales_ and _Whitsun-ales_ are simply species. And

first, their origin. The idea is without any doubt taken from the

_Agapæ_, or Love Feasts, so famous in the early Church. Many of the

features of these feasts were revived in the _wakes_ of the middle

ages, of which such was the popularity that the officers of parishes

conceived that some things novel in name and character, but preserving

the elements which made the wakes so popular, would answer the purpose

and promote the objects they had in view.

There is an old pre-Reformation indenture in Dodsworth’s MSS.,

which not only shows the design of the church-ale, but explains the

particular use and application of the word _ale_. The parishioners of

Elveston and Okebrook in Derbyshire agree jointly ‘to brew four ales,

and every ale of one quarter of malt, betwixt this and the feast of

St. John Baptist next coming. And that every inhabitant of the said

town of Okebrook shall be at the several ales. And every husband and

his wife shall pay two pence, every cottager one penny, and all the

inhabitants of Elveston shall have and receive all the profits and

advantages coming of the said ales, to the use and behoof of the said

church of Elveston, and the inhabitants of Elveston shall brew eight

ales between this and the feast of St. John Baptist, at the which ales

the inhabitants of Okebrook shall come and pay as before rehersed, and

if he be away at one ale to pay at the other ale for both.’[80]

Before the Reformation there were no poor rates. In their place

were the charitable dole given at the religious houses, voluntary

assessments towards church repairs, and the church-ale. The latter fell

in best with the humour of the people; for a time it was tolerated

because probably innocent, and in it a ready method was discovered for

maintaining the fabric of the church, and furnishing its necessary

ornaments. Stubbs, in his _Anatomie of Abuses_ (1585), thus describes

them:--

In certaine townes where dronken Bacchus beares swaie, against

Christmas and Easter, Whitsondaie or some other tyme, the

churchwardens of every parishe, with the consent of the whole

parishe, provide halfe a score, or twentie quarters of mault,

whereof some they buy of the churche stocke, and some is given them

of the parishioners themselves, every one conferring somewhat,

according to his abilitie; whiche maulte being made into very

strong ale or bere, is sette to sale, either in the churche or

some other place assigned to that purpose. Then when this is set

abroche, well is he that can gete the soonest to it, and spend the

most at it. In this kinde of practice they continue sixe weekes,

a quarter of a yeare, yea, halfe a yeare together. That money,

they say, is to repaire their churches and chappels with, to buy

bookes for service, cuppes for the celebration of the sacrament,

surplesses for Sir John, and such other necessaries, and they

maintaine other extraordinarie charges in their parish besides.

That these ales were eminently productive, the churchwardens’ accounts

of many parishes attest. Thus in Kingston-upon-Thames, the proceeds of

the church-ale in 1526 are entered as 7_l._ 15_s._, not much short of

100_l._ as money goes now.

We find them satirised in _Pierce Plowman_ thus:--

I am occupied everie daye, holye daye, and other,

With idle tales at the ale, and other while in churches.

_In churches._ Though they were not usually, if ever, held there,

but in a place called the _church-house_. Thus Carew (_Survey of

Cornwall_) says: ‘Whitsontide, upon which holidays the neighbours meet

at the church-house, and there merily feed on their owne victuals,

contributing some petty portion to the stock, which, by many smells,

growth to a meetly greatness.’

In process of time of course they degenerated. The pulpits of the

sixteenth century freely denounced them. A typical sermon on the abuses

of the day is that of William Kethe, preached at Blandford in 1570, at

which time ales must have been kept in his neighbourhood on Sunday,

‘which holy day the multitude call their revelyng day, which day is

spent in bul-beatings, beare-beatings, bowlings, dicyng, cardyng,

daunsynges, drunkenness, and whoredome.’ And when we remember that it

is recorded of an old song, that

It hath been sung at festivals,

On ember eves and _holy ales_,

we shall the better appreciate the nature of the fall. ‘Desinit in

piscem mulier formosa supernè.’

Efforts were made in this reign of Henry VI. for the better observance

of Sunday; and, here and there, there are indications that efforts were

made locally to bring about ‘Sunday closing.’ Mr. Bridgett has adduced

a few examples. In 1428 the corporation of Hull made an order for

the observance of the Sunday. No market was to be kept, under penalty

of 6_s._ 8_d._ for sellers, and 3_s._ 4_d._ for buyers; no butchers

were to expose meat for sale, nor cooks to dress or sell except to

strangers, and to them only before seven o’clock; no tradesmen to

keep shops open; no vintners nor ale-house keepers to deliver or sell

ale, under the same penalties. London made an attempt to suppress

Sunday trading, but it was ineffectual. In the year 1444 ‘an Act was

made, by authority of the Common Council of London, that upon the

Sunday should no manner of thing, within the franchise of the city, be

bought or sold, neither victual nor other things; nor none artificer

should bring his ware to any man to be worn or occupied that day, as

tailor’s garments or cordwainer’s shoes; and so likewise of all other

occupations; the which ordinance held but a while.’

There was very little legislation upon these matters in Henry VI.’s

reign. The planting of _hops_ was prohibited. They were used by the

brewers in the Netherlands early in the fourteenth century; and the use

of them in beer was brought into England from Artois. But there will

be more occasion to speak of them later on, when we shall find that

privileges were granted to _hop-grounds_. In this reign the Brewery

Company was incorporated, and we can readily believe that its brew was

duly appreciated by John Lydgate, the monk of Bury.

Beer had risen immensely in price from the thirteenth to the fifteenth

century. When the Archbishop of Canterbury visited his land at Tarring,

in Sussex, in 1277, four gallons of the best beer were to be charged

only 1_d._; whereas a tariff of 1464 shows an extraordinary advance.

Best beer, per gallon 2_d._

Second ” ” 1_d._

Third ” ” 0½_d._

A century later it had again risen fifty per cent.

In the archives of Ely Cathedral we have the following account of the

produce of a vineyard:--

£ _s._ _d._

Exitus vineti 2 15 3½

Exitus vineæ 10 12 2½

Ten bushels of grapes from the vineyard 0 7 6

Seven dolia musti from the vineyard 12th

Edward II. 15 1 0

Wine sold for 1 12 0

Verjuice 1 7 0

For wine out of this vineyard 1 2 2

For verjuice from thence 0 16 0

No wine but verjuice made 9th Edward IV.[81]

In an ordinance for the household of George, Duke of Clarence (Dec. 9,

1469), the sum of 20_l._ is allowed for the purveying of ‘Malvesie,

Romenay, Osey, Bastard, Muscadelle, and other sweete wynes.’ This

Romenay or Rumney has nothing to do with Rome or the Romagna, but was

probably made from Greek vines, as Henderson suggests, derived from

Rum-ili, a name given by the Saracens to Greece. The _Osey_ above

mentioned, or Auxois, was in old time a name for Alsace. It was richly

and highly flavoured.

The mention of the Duke of Clarence brings up the spectre of his

untimely end. A shroud of mystery veils its entire circumstances.

He was charged with high treason and condemned to death. Ten days

afterwards it was announced that he had died in the Tower. Was he first

murdered and then drowned, as Shakespeare thought,[82] or is the old

story to be believed, that he was drowned in a butt of malmsey? Since

the death of his dearly loved wife, Isabel of Warwick, he had abandoned

himself to intemperance, to drown his grief. With such a habit

contracted, with vexed conscience, in the despair of condemnation, and

with a butt of his favourite drink by his side, what more natural than

to suppose him to have been a miserable suicide? However, the weight of

testimony leans to the other theory--that he was stabbed by Richard’s

order, and the body thrown into the malmsey to make believe that he had

unwittingly drowned himself under the influence of drink.

Mr. Martin Leake gives the origin of the term _Malmsey_: Monemvasia,

now an island connected with the coast of Laconia by a bridge. This

name, derived from its position (μόνε ἐμβασία, _single entrance_),

was corrupted by the Italians to Malvasia; this place, celebrated for

its fine wines, had its name changed to Malvoisie in French, and

Malmsey in English, and came to be applied to many of the rich wines

of Greece, the Archipelago, &c.[83]

The consumption of strong drink at public entertainments was something

prodigious in the fifteenth century. At the banquet upon the occasion

of the installation of George Neville, Archbishop of York, in 1464, no

less than 300 tuns of ale and 100 tuns of wine were consumed. In the

household of Archbishop Booth, his predecessor, it is stated that about

80 tuns of claret were consumed annually.

The usages of _assay_ were at this time remarkable. Every cup of drink

served to the great man of the house was assayed twice, once in the

buttery and again in the hall. In the buttery the butler was required

to drink, under the marshal’s eye, some of every vessel of liquor sent

to the high table; and at the same time the marshal covered with its

lid every cup, before committing it to the lord’s cupbearer. It was

treason for a cupbearer to raise the lid of a vessel thus confided to

him, on his way from the buttery to the table; but he sipped it before

his lord took a draught. On serving his master the cupbearer knelt,

removed the lid, and poured some of the drink into the inverted cover.

When he had drunk this, the servant handed the cup to his master, who,

when he saw the liquor assayed before his eyes, accepted it as a liquor

of _credence_ which he might drink trustfully.[84]

But here we must stay for a while and inquire what action the Church

had been taking for the past century to check intemperance. In the

year 1359, Archbishop Islep, in his Constitution, informs Michael de

Northburg, Bishop of London, that though it is provided by sanctions

of law and canon that all Lord’s days be venerably observed from eve

to eve, so that neither markets, negotiations, nor courts be kept, nor

any country work done, that so every faithful man may go to his parish

church to worship and pray, yet ‘we are, to our great heart’s grief,

informed that a detestable, nay damnable, perverseness has prevailed,

insomuch that in many places, markets, unlawful meetings of men who

neglect their churches, various tumults and other occasions of evil are

committed, revels and drunkenness, and many other dishonest doings are

practised, ... wherefore we strictly command you that ye without delay

canonically admonish, and effectually persuade in virtue of obedience,

those of your subjects whom ye find culpable, that they do wholly

abstain from markets, courts, and the other unlawful practices for the

future,’ &c.

In a constitution held three years later, the same Archbishop Islep

lays intemperance to the charge of some of the priests, and imposes

strenuous penalties in default of amendment.[85] In 1363 Archbishop

Thoresby complains that it had become common for persons to meet in

churches on the vigils of saints, and offend against God by their

practices; that in the exequies of the dead, some turned the house of

mourning and prayer into the house of laughter and excess to the great

peril of their own souls. These were strictly forbidden to continue

such practices.

In the year 1468 the Prior of Canterbury and the commissaries

made a visitation (the see being then vacant); and it was ordered

that potations made in the churches, commonly called _give-ales_

or _bride-ales_, should be discontinued, under penalty of

excommunication.[86]

_Bride-ale_

was so called from the bride’s selling ale on the wedding day, and

friends contributing what they liked in payment of it. Brand imagines

that the expense was defrayed by the friends of the married pair

when circumstances were such as to need help. It was also called

_bride-stake_, _bride-wain_, and _bride-bush_; the bush sufficiently

signifying the nature of the gathering, inasmuch as it was the ancient

badge of a country ale-house. Before the festivities proper began on

the return from the bridal ceremony, it appears that a curious drinking

custom prevailed in the church. Wine, with sops immersed, was there

drunk, and bowls were kept in the church for this purpose. Thus, in

an inventory of goods belonging to Wilsdon church in the sixteenth

century, occurs the item, ‘two masers (mazers) that were appointed

to remayne in the church for to drink in at bride-ales.’ Shakespeare

alludes to this custom in his _Taming of the Shrew_, where Petruchio

Calls for wine:--‘A health,’ quoth he ...

... Quaff’d off the muscadel,

And threw the _sops_ all in the sexton’s face.

The practice continued in force for a long time, for we find allusion

to the same custom in the year 1720 in the _Compleat Vintner_:--

What priest can join two lovers’ hands,

But wine must seal the marriage-bands?

As if celestial wine was thought

Essential to the sacred knot,

And that each bridegroom and his bride

Believ’d they were not firmly ty’d

Till Bacchus with his bleeding tvn,

Had finished what the priest begun.

The wine thus drunk is called by Ben Jonson a ‘knitting cup.’ After the

ceremony they retired to a tavern or went home, and then the orgies

begun. In the words of an old writer, ‘When they come home from the

church, then beginneth excess of eatyng and drynking, and as much is

waisted in one daye as were sufficient for the two newe-maried folkes

halfe a year to lyve on.’

But these customs are not peculiar to England only. The Scotch have

their ‘penny bride-ale’ to help those who cannot pay the expense of

the wedding feast. In Germany, when a window was put in or altered,

was the _fenster-bier_ (window-beer). At the churchings of women

was the _kark-bier_ (church-beer). At funerals was the _grab-bier_

(grave-beer), beer forming an essential part of all such observances.

Edward IV. died in 1488, the victim of mortified ambition. His habits

of life were licentious and intemperate. He died under a violent fever

aggravated by excess. We can only hope that he died, as it is reported,

a penitent. An account is given in the Paston Letters (cccxliv.)

of an intended _progress_ of the king, probably to facilitate his

benevolences. In this, Sir John Paston is urged to warn William Gogney

and his fellows ‘to purvey them of wine enough, for every man beareth

me in hand that the town shall be drank dry, as York was when the king

was there.’

In this reign the Earls of Warenne and Surrey possessed the privilege

of licensing ale-houses. Mention has already been made of the ‘Crown,’

in Cheapside. In 1467 this house was kept by one Walter Walters, who in

harmless pleasantry gave it out that he would make his son ‘heir to the

“Crown.”’ This so displeased his Majesty Edward IV. that he ordered the

man to be put to death for high treason.

One piece of legislation remains to be told before closing the period.

In the first year of Richard III. (c. 13), it was enacted that malmsey

should in future be imported only in butts of 126 gallons. This measure

was for the prevention of frauds on the revenue. It was repealed by an

Act of George IV.

FOOTNOTES:

[77] Massinger: _A New Way to Pay Old Debts_.

[78] Allen, _History of Lambeth_.

[79] Roberts: _Social History of the Southern Counties_.

[80] Dodsworth’s MSS., Bibl. Bod., vol. 148, p. 97.

[81] Speechly: _Treatise on Culture of Wine_, 2nd ed. p. 270.

[82] Richard III., act i. scene 4.

[83] _Researches in Greece_, p. 197.

[84] Jeaffreson: _A Book about the Table_.

[85] For a terrible account of the _glutton-masses_ of the secular

clergy, see Henry, _Hist. Great Britain_, book v. ch. 7.

[86] Warton (_Hist. Poetry_, iii. 414) cites the above from Archbishop

Tanner’s manuscript _Additions to Cowell’s Law Glossary_.

Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History · 第 8 / 14 章