CHAPTER I.

NINETEEN CENTURIES

OF

DRINK IN ENGLAND

_A HISTORY_

BY

RICHARD VALPY FRENCH

D.C.L., LL.D., F.S.A.

RECTOR OF LLANMARTIN AND RURAL DEAN

AUTHOR OF ‘THE HISTORY OF TOASTING’ ETC.

_SECOND EDITION--ENLARGED AND REVISED_

LONDON

NATIONAL TEMPERANCE PUBLICATION DEPOT

33 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C.

_All rights reserved_

EDINBURGH:

PRINTED BY LORIMER AND GILLIES,

31 ST. ANDREW SQUARE.

PREFACE.

The earlier part of this slight contribution to the literature of an

inexhaustible subject has already appeared in a series of numbers in

a London weekly journal. The best acknowledgment of the writer is due

to the Rev. ARTHUR RICHARD SHILLITO, M.A. (late Scholar of Trinity

College, Cambridge), who has from time to time during the progress of

this work most kindly furnished him with valuable notes.

INTRODUCTION.

The object of this work is to ascertain the part which Drink has played

in the individual and national life of the English people. To this

end, an inquiry is instituted into the beverages which have been in

use, the customs in connection with their use, the drinking vessels in

vogue, the various efforts made to control or prohibit the use, sale,

manufacture, or importation of strong drink, whether proceeding from

Church, or State, or both: the connection of the drink traffic with

the revenue, together with incidental notices of banquets, feasts, the

pledging of healths, and other relevant matter.

It must interest every thoughtful being to know how our national life

and national customs have come to be what they are. They have not

sprung up in a night like a mushroom. They have been forming for ages.

Each day has contributed something. The great river of social life,

ever flowing onward to the ocean of eternity, has been constantly fed

by the tributaries of necessity, appetite, fashion, fancy, vanity,

caprice, and imitation. Man is a bundle of habits and customs.

With some, it is true, life is mere routine, a round of

conventionalities; literally ‘one day telleth another;’ with others,

each day is a reality, has its fresh plan, is a rational item in the

account of life. To these nothing is without its meaning; there is a

definiteness, a precision, about its hours of action, of thought, of

diversion, of ministering to the bodily claims of sustenance by eating

and drinking. Around the latter, social life has fearfully encircled

itself. The world was, and still is,--

‘On hospitable thoughts intent.’

The latter days are but a repetition of the former. ‘As it was ... so

shall it be also. They did eat, they drank.’

Social life is intimately connected with the social or festive board;

in short, with eating and drinking, because these are a necessity of

nature. Other customs and habits may be fleeting, but men must eat, men

must drink. Food ministers not only to the principle of life, but to

that of brain force also. Thought is stimulated, activity is excited,

man becomes communicable. He then seeks society and enjoys it. Thus has

social intercourse gathered round the social board. Eating and drinking

are two indispensable factors in dealing with the history of a nation’s

social life. Adopting the adage by way of accommodation, ‘In vino

veritas,’ truth is out when wine is in, once know the entire history of

a nation’s drinking, and you have important materials for gauging that

nation’s social life.

For obvious reasons, a division has been adopted of the subject into

periods, in some respects artificial so far as the present inquiry

is concerned. The Romano-British period has been selected as the

_terminus a quo_. It might have been speculatively interesting to

penetrate further into the arcana of the past, to have inquired who

were the earliest inhabitants of this country? Were they aborigines,

natives of the soil, or were they colonists? Had they an independent

tribal existence, or were they originally a part of that great Asiatic

family who emigrated into and peopled Western Europe, and to whom the

Romans gave the name of Gauls?

Had such an inquiry been relevant, the question would have been of

immense importance; for drawing, as one must, considerably upon

imagination in dealing with any period not strictly historic, one must

either regard the primitive inhabitants as independent aborigines, and

accommodate their supplies to their wants, or, regarding them as an

offshoot from another nation, suppose them to have carried with them

the customs of their parent tribe, and find the sought-for habits of

the child in the ascertained habits of the parent.

But we are concerned with fact; and must therefore date from a period

when facts, however meagre and involved, are forthcoming.

A chapter of _Bibliography_ is appended for the benefit of any who

might wish to prosecute a study, of which the present effort is a mere

outline.

_A CONTRIBUTION TO THE BIBLIOGRAPHY OF DRINK._

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Accum, F. |_Adulterations of Food_ | 1820

Ackroyd, W. |_History and Science of Drunkenness_ | 1883

Adair, R. G. |_The Question of the Times_ | 1869

Agg-Gardner, J. T. |_Compulsory Temperance_ (Fortnightly) | 1884

Alcock, Rev. T. |_Observations on ... a late Act of | 1756

| Parliament_ |

Alford, S. S. |_On Drink-Craving_ | 1875

Ames, R. |_Bacchanalian Sessions_ | 1693

Anderson, A. |_Trade and Commerce_ | 1762

Anstie, Dr. F. E. |_Stimulants and Narcotics_ | 1864

” ” |_On the Uses of Wines_ | 1877

Armstrong, Dr. J. |_The Art of Preserving Health_ | 1744

Arnold, R. A. |_English Drunkenness_ | 1877

Ashton, J. |_Old Times_ | 1885

Assheton, Dr. W. |_A Discourse against Drunkenness_ | 1692

Arthur, T. S. |_Ten Nights in a Bar-Room_ | 1871

Aspin, J. |_A Picture of the Manners, &c._ | 1825

Atkinson, F. P. |_A Cause of Alcoholism_ | 1879

Austin, Major |_Cup Draining._ (Bristol Magazine) | 1857

| |

Bacon, G. W. |_Alcohol at the Bar_ | 1878

Baker, W. R. |_The Curse of Britain_ | 1840

” ” |_Intemperance the Idolatry of Great | 1851

| Britain_ |

Barnaby, A. |_Proposals for laying a Duty on Malt_ | 1696

Barber, M. A. S. |_Bartholomew Faire_ | 1641

Barclay, Dr. J. |_Ale, Wine, Spirits_ | 1861

Barrow, J. H. |_Temperance and Teetotalism_ | 1845

Barry, Sir E. |_Observations on the Wines of the | 1775

| Ancients_ |

Basil, S. |_Homilia Contra Ebrios_ | --

Bayly, Mrs. |_Ragged Homes_ | 1860

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Baynes, C. R. |_Two Discourses on Sickness of Wine_ | 1669

Beale, J. |_A Treatise of Cyder_ | 1665

Beardsall, F. |_Nature and Properties of Wines_ | 1839

Beaumont, Dr. T. |_A Lecture on Ardent Spirits_ | 1830

Beddoes, Dr. T. |_A Guide for Self-Preservation_ | 1793

Beecher, Dr. Lyman |_Sermons on Intemperance_ | 1826

Beggs, T. |_Dear Bread and Wasted Grain_ | 1856

Bell, Dr. J. |_Action of Spirituous Liquors_ | 1791

Bennet, Dr. D. W. |_Alcohol: Use and Abuse_ | 1883

Bernard, S. |_De Ordine Vitæ_ | --

Bickerdyke, J. |_Curiosities of Ale and Beer_ | --

Bradley, R. |_The Riches of the Hop Garden_ | 1729

Brewster, J. |_The Evils of Drunkenness_ | 1832

Bridgett, T. E. |_The Discipline of Drink_ | 1876

Brown, Dr. A. |_Advice respecting Water Drinking_ | 1707

Browne, Sir T. |_Pseudodoxia Epidemica_ | 1646

Browne, Dr. Peter |_Discourse of Drinking Healths_ | 1716

” ” |_Of Drinking in Remembrance of the | 1715

| Dead_ |

Bruce, E. |_Digest of Evidence before the | 1835

| Committee of Parliament_ |

Brunton, Dr. L. |_The Influence of Stimulants_ | 1883

Burgh, J. |_A Warning to Dram Drinkers_ | 1751

Burn, J. H. |_Descriptive Catalogue of London | 1855

| Traders_ |

Burne, Peter |_The Teetotallers Companion_ | 1847

Burns, Dr. D. |_Drink, Drunkenness and the Drink | 1862

| Traffic_ |

” ” |_The Bible and Total Abstinence_ | 1869

” ” |_The Bases of Temperance Reform_ | 1872

” ” |_Christendom and the Drink Curse_ | 1875

Buckingham, J. S. |_Evidence on Drunkenness_ | 1834

” ” |_Earnest Plea for the Reign of | 1851

| Temperance_ |

” ” |_History and Progress of the Temperance| 1854

| Reformation_ |

Bucknill, J. C. |_Habitual Drunkenness_ | 1878

Bury, E. |_The Deadly Danger of Drunkenness_ | 1671

Butler, W. R. |_The Idolatry of Britain_ | --

” ” |_The Curse of Britain_ | 1838

Buxton, C. |_How to stop Drunkenness_ (North | 1855

| British Review) |

| |

Caine, W. |_Thoughts on Wines and Temperance_ | 1882

Capil |_On the Laws of Drunkenness_ | --

Carlysle, Dr. A. |_Pernicious Effects of Liquors_ | 1810

” ” |_Moral Influence of Fermented Liquors_ | 1837

Carpenter, Dr. W. B.|_Use and Abuse of Alcoholic Liquors_ | 1851

” ” |_The Moderate Use, &c._ | 1853

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

| |

Carpenter, Dr. W. B.|_Physiology of Temperance_ | 1853

Carpenter, Dr. A. |_Alcoholic Drinks not Necessaries_ | 1882

Chadwick, Sir E. |_Various Reports, Speeches, &c., dating| 1842

| from_ |

Chadwick, Dr. J. |_An Essay on Alcoholic Liquors_ | 1849

Charleton, Dr. |_Mystery of Vintners_ | 1692

Child, S. |_Every Man his own Brewer_ | 1797

Christison, Sir R. |_A Treatise on Poisons_ | 1829

” ” |_The Habit of Intemperance_ | 1861

Clark, Sir Andrew |_Alcohol in Small Doses_ | 1881

” ” |_An Enemy of the Race_ | 1882

Clarke, S. |_The British Gauger_ | 1762

Close, Dean |_Why I have taken the Pledge_ | 1860

Collier, J. P. |_Collection of Ordinances_ | 1790

Collinson, J. |_Crack Club_ | 1858

” |_The Gaol Cradle_ | 1875

Confalonarius, J. B.|_De Vini Naturâ_ | 1535

Conybeare, W. J. |_Social Essays_ | 1855

Cornwalleys, H. |_The Law of Drinking_ | 1705

Cornaro, L. |_De Vitæ Sobriæ Commodis_ | 1678

Coryn, H. A. W. |_Moral and Physical Advantages of | 1888

| Total Abstinence_ |

Couling, S. |_The Traffic in Intoxicating Drinks_ | 1855

” |_History of the Temperance Movement_ | 1862

” |_Teetotalism v. Alcohol_ | 1863

Crane, J. T. |_The Arts of Intoxication_ | 1877

Crespi, Dr. A. |_Various Essays and Lectures, dating | 1870

| from_ |

Cruikshank, G. |_The Bottle_ | 1847

” |_A Sequel to The Bottle_ | 1848

” |_The Glass_ | 1853

| |

Daniel, Geo. |_Merrie England in ye Olden Time_ | 1842

” |_Democritus in London_ | 1852

Darby, C. |_Bacchanalia_ | 1680

Deacon |_The Innkeeper’s Album_ | 1823

Dearden, J. |_Short Account of Drunkenness_ | 1840

Decker, Th. |_The Gull’s Horne-booke_ | 1609

” |_English Villaines Prest to Death_ | 1632

Defoe, Dan. |_The Poor Man’s Plea_ | 1698

De Laune |_Present State of London_ | 1681

Denham, Sir J. |_Calf’s Head Club_ | 1713

Dewhurst, W. H. |_Physiology of Drunkenness_ | 1838

Dickson, Dr. |_Fallacies of the Faculty_ | 1839

Digby, Sir K. |_Closet Opened_ | 1677

Disney, John. |_View of Ancient Laws against | 1710

| Immorality_ |

Doran, Dr. |_Table Traits_ | 1854

Dossie, R. |_On Spirituous Liquors_ | 1770

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Downham, John |_Disswasion from Drunkenness_ | 1613

Druik, Dr. L. |_Cheap Wines_ | 1865

Duncan, Dr. |_Wholesome Advice_ | 1706

Dunckley, H. |_The Shame and the Glory of Britain_ | 1849

Dunlop, J. |_National Intemperance_ | 1828

” |_The Wine System of Great Britain_ | 1831

” |_Philosophy of Drinking Usages_ | 1839

| |

Earle, John |_Microcosmographie_ | 1628

Edgar, John |_Drinks of the Hebrews_ | 1837

Edmunds, Dr. J. |_Non-Alcoholic Treatment_ | 1876

” |_Alcoholic Drinks as Diet_ | 1879

Edwards, Edwin |_Collection of Old English Inns_ | 1873

Edwards, Henry |_Charities and Old English Customs_ | 1842

Ellis, Mrs |_A Voice from the Vintage_ | 1843

” |_Pictures of Private Life_ | 1844

Ellison, Canon |_The Church Temperance Movement_ | 1878

Esquiroz, Alphonze |_The English at Home_ | --

Evelyn, John |_Tyrannus; Sumptuary Laws_ | 1661

| |

Fairholt, F. W. |_Lord Mayor’s Pageants_ | 1843

Farrar, Archdeacon |_Numerous Lectures, Articles, &c._ | --

Fleetwood, Bishop |_Chronicon Preciosum_ | 1707

Flower, R. |_Observations on Beer_ | 1802

Forbes, Sir J. |_Temperance: An Enquiry_ | 1847

Forster, Dr. T. |_Physiological Reflections_ | 1812

Fosbroke, T. D. |_British Monachism_ | 1817

Fredericus, J. |_De Ritu Bibendi_ | --

Freeman, G. |_Exhortation from Drunkenness_ | 1663

French, R. V. |_History of Toasting_ | 1881

” |_Personal Advantages of Abstinence_ | 1878

Frinus, D. |_Spirits and Wine Offending Man’s | 1668

| Body_ |

Friscolinus |_In Ebrietat_ | --

| |

Gairdner, Dr. W. E. |_On Alcoholic Stimulants_ | 1861

Gale, Rev. H. |_Apostolic Temperance_ | 1856

Garbult, R. |_A Sober Testimony_ | 1675

Gascoigne, G. |_The Pryncelye Pleasure at Kenilworth_ | 1576

” |_The Steele Glas, a Satyre_ | 1576

Gay, John |_Poem on Wine_ | 1727

Gayton, Edmund |_Art of Longevity_ | 1659

Geree, John |_Potion for the Cure of Unnatural | 1648

| Health-Drinking_ |

Gesner, C. |_Contra Luxum Conviviorum_ | --

Gibson, E. |_Earnest Dissuasive_ | 1750

Gilmore, A. |_Our Drinks_ | 1856

Gladstone, Rev. G. |_Good Templarism_ | 1873

Godschall, W. M. |_Monitions concerning Ale-house | 1787

| Keepers_ |

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Goodwin, M. |_An Address to the Nobility on | 1819

| Distillation_ |

Googe, B. |_Noageorgus_ | 1570

Gough, J. B. |_Autobiography of_ | 1879

” |_Orations_ | 1886

Gratarolus, W. |_De Vini Naturâ_ | 1565

Greenfield, W. S. |_Alcohol, its Use and Abuse_ | 1878

Greenwood, J. |_The Seven Curses of London_ | --

Greenwood, E. |_Lectures on Intemperance_ | 1837

Grier, R. M. |_Numerous Pamphlets, Articles, &c._ |1870-89

Grindrod, R. B. |_Bacchus_ | 1839

Grose, F. |_Worn out Characters of the Last Age_ | --

Gunning, H. |_Reminiscences of Cambridge from 1780_ | --

Gustafson, Axel |_The Foundation of Death_ | 1884

Gutch, J. |_Collectanea Curiosa_ | 1781

Guthrie, Dr. T. |_A Plea for Drunkards_ | --

Guy, Dr. |_Intemperance_ (Weekly Record) | 1857

| |

Hales, S. |_The Unwholesomeness of Liquors_ | 1750

Hall, Thomas |_Funebria Floræ_ | 1660

Hall, J. |_Drink Thirst: Its Treatment_ | 1880

Harris, R. |_The Drunkard’s Cup_ | 1635

Harris, Dr. Sylvanus|_Inebriety_ | 1872

Harwood, Dr. E. |_Of Temperance and Intemperance_ | 1774

Haynes, M. |_Against Drunkenness_ | 1701

Heath, Benjamin |_The Case of the County of Devon_ | --

Henderson, Dr. A. |_History of Ancient and Modern Wines_ | 1824

Henry, Rev. W. |_Earnest Addresses against Drinking, | 1761

| &c._ |

Heslop, T. P. |_The Abuse of Alcohol_ | 1872

” |_Our Drinking Customs_ | 1878

Heywood, Thomas |_London Harbour of Health_ | 1635

” ” |_The Marriage Triumph_ | 1613

” ” |_Philocothonista; or, The Drunkard | 1635

| Opened_ |

” ” |_London Speculum_ | 1637

Higginbottom, J. |_On the Treatment of Disease without | 1862

| Stimulants_ (Brit. Med. Journ., Vol. |

| II.) |

Hill, J. |_Friendly Warnings_ v. _Drunkenness_ | 1831

Hingeston, H. |_Dreadful Alarm_ | 1703

Hobson |_Household Expenses of Sir John | 1466

| Howard_ |

Hodgkin, Dr. |_Promoting Health_ | 1835

Hone, W. |_Everyday Book. Year Book_ | 1825

Hopkins, W. B. |_H. Sc. Temperance_ | 1871

Hornby, W. |_The Scourge of Drunkenness_ | 1614

Horsely, J. |_Toxicologist’s Guide_ | 1866

Horsely, J. W. |_Numerous Articles, Lectures, &c._ |1875-89

Hospinianus |_De Festis Christianorum_ | 1593

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Hoyle, W. |_Intemperance and Crime_ | 1864

” |_Total Abstinence_ | 1874

” |_Our National Drink Bill_ |1884, &c.

Howard, C. |_The Touchstone of Adulteration_ | --

Hudson, Thomas |_Numerous Articles, Lectures, &c._ |1849-89

Hughes, W. |_Complete Vineyard_ | 1665

Husenbeth |_Guide to the Wine-cellar_ | --

Huss |_Alcoholismus Chronicus_ | 1851

| |

Ingestre, Viscount |_Meliora; or, Better Times_ | 1852

” ” |_Ancient Laws and Customs of the | --

| Burghs_ |

Inwards, J. |_Essays on Temperance_ | 1849

| |

Jeaffreson, J. C. |_A Book about the Table_ | 1875

Jeffreys, Archibald |_The Religious Objections_ | 1840

” ” |_Alcoholic Wines_ | 1845

Jenkins, E. |_The Devil’s Chain_ | 1876

Jerrold, D. |_Cakes and Ale_ | 1852

Johnson, J. |_Laws and Canons_ | 1720

Jole, W. |_Warning to Drunkards_ | 1680

Jones, A. |_The Dreadful Character of a Drunkard_ | 1660

Junius, R. |_The Drunkard’s Character_ | 1638

| |

Kempe, A. J. |_Losely MSS. Illustrative of English | 1835

| Manners_ |

Kennet, Bishop |_Parochial Antiquities_ | 1695

Kerr, Dr. N. |_The Action of Alcoholic Liquors_ | 1876

” |_Intemperance and its Remedy_ | 1878

” |_Diseases from Alcohol_ | 1882

” |_The Truth about Alcohol_ | 1884

” |_Numerous Articles and Lectures_ | --

Kester |_De immoderatâ Adbibendi consuetudine_ | --

Kirton, J. W. |_Intoxicating Drinks_ | 1879

Knight, T. |_Pomona Herefordiensis_ | 1809

| |

Lacey, W. J. |_The Case for Total Abstinence_ | 1889

Lamb, C. |_Essays of Elia_ | 1833

Lambarde, W. |_Lamentable Complaints_ | 1641

Lankester, Dr. E. |_On Food_ | 1861

Larwood, J. |_History of Signboards_ | 1866

Lees, Dr. F. R. |_History of the Wine Question_ | 1840

” ” |_Essays on the Temperance Question_ | 1853

” ” |_Agreement for Legislative Prohibition_| 1856

” ” |_Science Temperance Text Book, &c., | 1884

| &c._ |

Lawson, Sir W. |_Numerous Articles, Lectures, | --

| Parliamentary Speeches, &c._ |

Lemerry, L. |_Treatise of Foods and Drinkables_ | 1745

| (Translated by Dr. D. Hay) |

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Levi, Leone |_On the Wine Trade and Duties_ | 1866

” ” |_Consumption of Spirits_ | 1872

Levison, J. L. |_Hereditary Tendency of Drunkenness_ | 1839

Lewis, David |_Britain’s Social State_ | 1872

” ” |_The Drink Problem, and its Solution_ | 1883

Lightbody, J. |_The Gauger’s Companion_ | 1694

Livesey, J. |_Lecture on Malt Liquor_ | 1832

” |_Reminiscences_ | 1867

Lucas, Dr. T. P. |_The Laws of Life and Alcohol_ | 1877

Lupton, D. |_The Country Carbonadoed_ | 1632

Lash, W. J. H. |_Chronic Alcoholism_ | 1873

| |

Macdonald, G. B. |_Apology for the Disuse of Alcohol_ | 1841

Macnish, R. |_Anatomy of Drunkenness_ | 1834

Macpherson, D. |_Annals of Commerce_ | 1805

Macrae, D. |_Dunvarlich_ | --

Madox, T. |_History of the Exchequer_ | 1769

Madden, F. |_Privy Purse Expenses of Queen Mary_ | 1831

Madden, R. H. |_Stimulating Drinks_ | 1847

Maffei, Scipio |_De Compotationibus Academicis_ | --

Maguire, J. F. |_Father Mathew_ | 1863

Malcolm, J. P. |_Manners and Customs of London_ | 1811

Maltman, J. |_Teetotalism_ | 1889

Marchant, W. T. |_The Praise of Ale_ | 1888

Marcet, W. |_On Chronic Alcoholic Intoxication_ | 1862

Markham, J. |_English Housewife_ | 1683

Martyndale, H. F. |_Analysis of the Calendar_ | --

Mayor, Prof. |_Modicus Cibi_ | 1880

J. E. B. | |

Miller, Rev. J. |_The Coffeehouse_ | 1737

Miller, Dr. J. |_Alcohol, its Place and Power_ | 1861

Mills, J. |_The Merrie Days of England_ | 1859

Misson, M. |_Memoirs and Observations_ | 1719

Morewood, S. |_History of Inebriating Liquors_ | 1838

Moxon, H. E. |_The Laws Affecting Publicans_ | --

Mudie, R. |_Babylon the Great_ | 1824

Mudge, Dr. H. |_Nature and Obligations of Temperance_ | 1862

Muirhead, J. P. |_Drinking Songs_ | 1875

Mulder, Prof. C. J. |_Chemistry of Wine_ | 1857

Munroe, Dr. H. |_Alcohol not Food_ | 1867

Myrc, John |_Liber Festivalis_ | --

| |

Nash, Th. |_Pierce Pennilesse_ | 1595

Nichols, John |_The Progresses of Queen Elizabeth, | 1788

| James I., &c._ |

” ” |_Illustrations of Manners and | --

| Expenses_ |

Nichols, J. G. |_London Pageants_ | 1837

Norris, Edw. |_Establishment of the Household of H. | 1770

| Algernon Percy_

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Nott, Dr. |_Lectures_ | 1863

| |

Obsopœus, Vinc. |_De Arte Bibendi_ | 1578

Oinophilos, Bon. |_(Pseud) Praise of Drunkenness_ | 1812

Osborne, S. J. |_Hints for the Amelioration, &c._ | 1841

| |

Page, Th. |_An Earnest Appeal on the Effects of | 1846

| Beer-houses_ |

Paris, Dr. J. A. |_On Diet_ | 1837

Paris, M. |_Paradise of Dainty Devices_ | 1576

Parkes, Dr. E. A. |_Public Health_ | 1876

Parsons, Benj. |_Anti-Bacchus_ | 1840

Partridge, S. |_An Admonition to the Keepers of | --

| Inns_ |

Pasquil |_Palinodia and his Progress to the | 1634

| Tavern_ |

Peacham, T. |_The Art of Living in London_ | 1642

Pegge, S. |_The Form of Cury_ | 1780

” |_Introduction and Condition of the | --

| Vine in England_ (Arch. i. 319) |

Pengelly, W. |_Signs of Hotels, &c._ | --

Phelps, C. |_A Caveat against Drunkenness_ | 1676

Phillips, J. |_Cyder_ | 1708

Pigot, J. M. B. |_De Morbis Ebriosorum_ | 1807

Poole, T. |_Treatise on Strong Beer_ | 1785

Powell, J. |_The Assyse of Ale_ | --

Powell, F. |_Bacchus Dethroned_ | 1870

Porphyry |_De Abstinentia_ | --

Pulman, J. P. R. |_Book of the Axe_ | 1841

Prynne, W. |_Healthe’s Sicknesse_ | 1628

” |_Pymlico; or Runne Red Cap_ | 1609

| |

Rae, Rob. |_Handbook of Temperance History_ | --

Randall, Th. |_Arislippus_ | 1652

” |_The Virtues of a Pot of Good Ale_ | 1642

Reade, A. A. |_Study and Stimulants_ | 1883

Redding, C. |_History and Description of Modern | 1833

| Wines_ |

Reeve, Th. |_God’s Plea for Nineveh_ | 1657

Reid, W. |_The Evils of Modern Drinking_ | 1850

” |_Temperance Cyclopædia_ | 1851

” |_Our National Vice_ | 1858

Reid, Th. |_Intemperance Considered_ | 1850

Ricket, E. |_Gentleman’s Table Guide_ | 1873

Rich, Barnaby |_The Irish Hubbub_ | 1617

Richardson, Dr. |_On Alcohol_ (Cantor Lectures) | 1875

B. W. | |

” ” |_Researches on Alcohol_ | 1877

” ” |_Total Abstinence_ | 1878

” ” |_Dialogues on Drink_ | 1878

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Richardson, Dr. |_Drink and Strong Drink_ | 1882

B. W. | |

” ” |_Asclepiad_, passim |1884-9

Rigby, J. |_The Drunkard’s Perspective_ | 1656

Ridge, Dr. J. |_The Temperance Primer_ | 1879

” ” |_Non-Alcoholic Treatments_ | 1889

Ritchie, W. |_Scripture Testimony_ | 1874

Robson, W. |_De Effect Vini et Spiritus_ | 1803

Roberts, G. |_Social History of the Southern | 1856

| Counties_ |

Rosewell, H. |_Religious Revel_ | 1711

Russell, A. G. |_Drinking and Disease_ | 1868

Russom, J. |_Evil Effects of Beer-shops_ | 1849

Rye, W. B. |_England as seen by Foreigners_ | 1865

Rymer, Thomas |_Roxburghe Revels_ | 1834

| |

Samuelson, J. |_The History of Drink_ | 1878

” |_Beer Scientifically and Socially | 1870

| Considered_ |

Scrivener, M. |_A Treatise against Drunkenness_ | 1685

Sedgwick, J. A. |_New Treatise on Liquors_ | 1725

Shannon, Dr. |_On Brewing and Distillation_ | 1805

Sharman, H. R. |_A Cloud of Witnesses_ | 1884

Shaw, T. G. |_Wine_ | 1864

Sheen, J. R. |_Wines and other Fermented Liquors_ | 1864

Sherlock, F. |_Shakespeare on Temperance, &c._ | 1882

Sinclair, Sir J. |_History of Revenue_ | 1785

Smith, Albert |_Wassail-Bowl_ | 1843

” ” |_A Bowl of Punch_ | 1848

Smith, Dr. Edward |_Action of Tea and Alcohol_ | 1860

” ” |_The Action of Alcohol_ | 1862

| (Journ. Soc. Arts) |

” ” |_On the Action of Foods_ | 1859

Smith, J. |_The Temperance Reformation_ | 1875

Speechly, W. |_The Culture of the Vine_ | 1790

Strenock, J. |_God’s Sword drawn against Drunkards_ | 1677

Strutt, J. |_Horda_ | 1774

Stubs, P. |_The Anatomie of Abuses_ | 1583

Stuckins |_De Antiquorum Conviviis_ | --

Symonds, J. A. |_Wine, Women, and Song_ | 1884

| |

Taylor, John |_Drinke and Welcome_ | 1637

” ” |_A Relation of the Wine Taverns_ | 1636

” ” |_Drunkenness an indirect Cause of | 1860

| Crime_ |

Teare, J. |_The Principle of Total Abstinence_ | 1846

Terrington, W. |_Cooling Cups_ | 1880

Thomson, Thomas |_Diet for a Drunkard_ | 1612

Thomson, Dr. S. |_Use and Abuse of Alcoholic Liquor_ | 1850

Thorpe, B. |_Ancient Laws and Institutes_ | 1840

Thrupp, J. |_The Anglo-Saxon Home_ | 1862

Thudichum, J. L. W. |_On the Origin, Nature, &c., of Wine_ | 1872

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

Author. | Title of Work. | Date.

--------------------+---------------------------------------+-------

| |

Timbs, John |_Clubs and Club Life_ | 1872

Tomline |_Monastic and Social Life_ | --

Tovey, C. |_Wit ... distilled from Bacchus_ | 1878

” |_British and Foreign Spirits_ | 1864

Trotter, Dr. T. |_Essay on Drunkenness_ | 1804

Tryon, Dr. T. |_The Way to Wealth_ | 1683

Tuckerman, H. T. |_The Collector_ | --

Turner, Dr. W. |_A New Boke of the Properties of Wines_| 1568

| |

Ullmus, J. F. |_De Ebrietate Fugiendâ_ | 1589

| |

Venner |_Via Recta ad Vitam Longam_ | 1628

Vizetelly, H. |_History of Champagne_ | 1882

| |

Ward, Samuel |_Woe to Drunkards_ | 1622

Ward and Clark |_Warning Piece_ | 1682

Ward, Ned |_The Complete Vintner_ | 1721

” ” |_Bacchanalia_ | 1698

Ward, George |_The Opinions of Medical Men_ | 1868

Warner, R. |_Antiquitates Culinariæ_ | 1791

Weston, Agnes |_Temperance Work in the Navy_ | 1879

Whistlecraft, W. |_The Monks and the Giants_ | 1818

Whitaker, T. |_The Blood of the Grape_ | 1638

White, G. |_Hints, Moral and Medical_ | 1840

Whitewell, E. |_Evidence on Sunday-Closing_ | 1880

Wightman, Mrs. |_Arrest the Destroyer’s March_ | 1877

Whyte, J. |_The Alcoholic Controversy_ | 1880

Wilson, Dr. C. |_The Pathology of Drunkenness_ | 1855

Wilson, C. H. |_The Myrtle and Vine_ | 1800

Winskill, P. T. |_History of the Temperance Reformation_| 1881

Winslow, F. |_The Death March of Drinkdom_ | 1881

Woodward, J. |_A Dissuasive from Drunkenness_ | 1798

Worlidge, J. |_Vinetum Britannicum_ | 1676

Worth, W. P. |_Cerevisiarii Comes_ | 1692

Wright, J. |_Country Conversations of Drinking, | 1694

| &c._ |

Wright, T. |_Homes of other Days_ | 1871

Whittaker, Thomas |_Life’s Battle in Temperance Armour_ | 1884

Youmans, E. |_The Basis of Prohibition_ | 1846

Young, F. |_The Epicure_ | 1815

Young, T. |_England’s Bane_ | 1617

Yonge, R. |_Blemish of Government_ | 1655

NINETEEN CENTURIES OF DRINK IN ENGLAND.

CHAPTER I.

ROMAN PERIOD.

Little is known of the manners and customs of our island inhabitants

before the Saxon period; hence, there can be no wonder that all is

obscure before the Roman invasion. For the hints that have come to

light we are indebted to such foreign historians as wrote in the

century before the Christian era, the century of the invasion, and the

age immediately subsequent.

These hints, utterly meagre, but generally consistent, are supplied by

such writers before Christ as Diodorus and Cæsar, and such historians

of the first century as Strabo, Dioscorides, and Pliny.

Diodorus (lib. v.) notes the simplicity in the manners of the British,

and their being satisfied with a frugal sustenance, and avoiding the

luxuries of wealth. He further observes:--‘Their diet was simple; their

food consisted chiefly of milk and venison. Their ordinary drink was

water. Upon extraordinary occasions they drank a kind of fermented

liquor made of barley, honey, or apples, and when intoxicated never

failed to quarrel, like the ancient Thracians.’

Cæsar (_De Bell. Gall._ v.) observes that the inhabitants of the

interior do not sow grain, but live on milk and flesh.

Strabo, whose description of Britain in his fourth book is barren,

and not apparently independent (for he seems mainly to follow Cæsar),

writes in the early part of the first century (probably about A.D. 18),

that the Britons had some slight notion of planting orchards.

Dioscorides, in the middle of the same century, affirms that the

Britons instead of wine use _curmi_, a liquor made of barley. Pliny

the Elder speaks of the drinks in vogue in his time of the beer

genus, variously called _zythum_, _celia_, _cerea_, _Cereris vinum_,

_curmi_, _cerevisia_. These, he says (lib. xiv.), were known to the

nations inhabiting the _west of Europe_. He exclaims against the

wide-spread intemperance: ‘The whole world is addicted to drunkenness;

the perverted ingenuity of man has given even to water the power of

intoxicating where wine is not procurable. Western nations intoxicate

themselves by means of moistened grain.’

It is important to add that Tacitus asserts (_Vit. Agricol._) that the

soil of this country abundantly produces all fruits except the olive,

the grape, and some others which are indigenous to a warm climate.

Putting together these scattered allusions we gather,--(1) that _wine_

was unknown to the Britons before the Roman conquest. It is absurd to

suppose that a people as simple as the Britons, and holding so little

intercourse with other nations, should as yet obtain from abroad such

an article of luxury as wine, or prepare it from a fruit not a native

of the soil. Indeed, it was only about a century before the Roman

invasion of England that vines were cultivated to any extent in the

Roman empire; so scarce had wines been previously that the libations to

the gods were directed to be made with milk.

(2) That the inhabitants of the interior used no intoxicant, unless

possibly _metheglin_. The language of Cæsar implies this. Above the

borders of the southern coast, which were inhabited by Belgæ, and by

them cultivated, there were few traces of civilisation. The midlanders

were unacquainted with agriculture, contenting themselves with pasture;

whilst the northerners depended on the produce of the chase, or upon

that which grew spontaneously. And everywhere it is the same. The

earliest savage inhabitants of any district eat without dressing what

the earth produces without cultivation, and drink water (_dwr_, ὕδωρ).

Savage nature is simple and uniform, whereas art and refinement are

infinitely various.

(3) That the southerners made some kind of intoxicant from grain, from

honey, and from apples.

Before the introduction of agriculture, _metheglin_ was the only strong

drink known to our inhabitants, and it was a favourite beverage with

them long after they had become acquainted with other drinks. The

rearing of bees became an important branch of industry; and we shall

find later on, that in the courts of the ancient princes of Wales the

mead-maker held an important position in point of dignity.

Metheglin (Welsh _Meddyglyn_), also called _hydromel_ and _mead_, was

a drink as universal as it was ancient. Testimony is afforded to this

by the Sanscrit _mathu_, Greek μέθυ and μέλι, Latin _mel_, Saxon

_medo_ and _medu_, Danish _miod_, German _meth_. And here one must

regret to demur to the suggested derivation of Metheglin from Matthew

Glinn, who possessed a large stock of bees that he wished to turn into

gain. The modes of the manufacture of this drink vary much in different

countries. In the times to which we refer, the principal ingredients

were rain-water and honey. Somewhat later it is described as wine and

honey sodden together.

After the introduction of agriculture, _ale_ (called by the Britons

_kwrw_ or _cwrw_) became a common drink. An early writer thus describes

its manufacture: ‘The grain is steeped in water and made to germinate;

it is then dried and ground; after which it is infused in a certain

quantity of water, which being fermented becomes a pleasant, warming,

strengthening, and intoxicating liquor.’

_Cider_ became known to the Britons at an early date. John Beale, a

seventeenth-century authority on orchard produce, thought _seider_ to

be a genuine British word; but it is generally referred to the Greek

σίκερα, which, curiously enough, is rendered in Wycliffe’s version of

the Bible, _sydyr_:--‘For he schal be gret before the Lord; and he

schal not drinke wyn ne sydyr.’[1] Macpherson, in his _Annals_, rightly

says that cider extracted from wild apples was early known to the

British in common with other Northern nations, whilst Whitaker

(_History of Manchester_) thinks that this beverage was introduced

by the Romans. The opinion entertained by some that it was a Norman

invention is entirely a mistake. The principal cider districts of

the present day are Herefordshire, Gloucestershire, Worcestershire,

Monmouth, Somerset, and Devon. Its medicinal qualities are variously

stated. Lord Bacon accounted it to promote long life. Sir George

Baker considered it a cure for dropsy. On the other hand, Dr. Epps

(_Journal of Health and Disease_) speaks of dropsy and insanity as

common diseases in Herefordshire, and says it is easy to understand how

diseased kidneys are produced by the acid in the cider, and how dropsy

follows from these diseased kidneys.

We next inquire what kind of _Inns_ were known to the Ancient Britons.

During the time of the Druids there was an order of people called

_Beatachs_, _Brughnibhs_, or keepers of open houses, established for

the express purpose of hospitality. These were pretty much of the same

character as the chaoultries in India, and the caravanseries in the

East. In Ireland, the _bruigh_ was a person provided with land and

stock by the prince of the territory, to keep beds, stabling, and such

amusements as backgammon boards. The character of these houses was,

as we shall find, vastly altered in Saxon times, when their names,

_Eala-hus_, _Win-hus_, &c., sufficiently betokened the rationale of

their existence.

We have seen that wine was unknown in this country before the Roman

occupation. But the tide of emigration soon set in from Rome to

Britain. The new-comers brought with them the arts and manufactures of

their own country. The importation of wines presented to our islanders

a new species of luxury. Evidently contrasting the simple habits of

her subjects with those of the Roman invaders, Queen Boadicea (A.D.

61), making ready for battle, appeals in an impassioned speech to the

heart of her troops, in which she exclaims: ‘To us, every herb and

root are food, every juice is our oil, and water is our wine.’ For

well-nigh three centuries of Roman occupation, wine continued to be

an import. It remained for a Roman emperor to give permission to the

Britons to cultivate vines and to make wine. The circumstances were

these: The Emperor Domitian (A.D. 81), in order to check the growth

of intemperance, issued an edict for the destruction of half the

vineyards, and prohibited any more planting of vines without licence

from the emperors. Probus acceded to the imperial purple, A.D. 276.

This emperor, having conquered Gaul, revoked the edict of Domitian,

and allowed the provinces to plant vines and make wine. Britain was

included in the licence. From that time the purple grape twined around

many a British homestead. But whether it ever really thrived in our

soil and climate is more than conjectural. Pliny throws doubt upon the

whole subject.[2] Camden regards the boon as affording shade rather

than produce.[3] Still there is a chain of evidence that for centuries

vineyards were planted in various districts, which would not have

been the case had they been a complete failure. Five centuries after

the edict of Probus, Bede testifies to their existence;[4] whilst

Holinshed, in the sixteenth century, writes:--‘that wine did grow here,

the old notes of tithes for wine that yet remain, besides the records

of sundry sutes commenced in diverse ecclesiastical courts; ... also

the enclosed parcels almost in every abbeie yet called vineyards, may

be a notable witnesse. The Isle of Elie also was in the first times of

the Normans called _le ile des vignes_.’[5] Nor can we wonder at the

efforts to establish the grape as a native production when we consider

the almost universal attachment to the fruit in one or other of its

forms. If mead was in general demand, still more so was wine. The

common appetite found fitting expression in a common nomenclature, and

we find the names given to wine in every country bearing a striking

similarity. Compare the English _wine_ with the Gaelic _fion_, the

French _vin_, Italian _vino_, Welsh _gwin_, Danish _viin_, German

_wein_, Latin _vinum_, Greek οἶνος, Hebrew _yayin_, the root term

conveying the notion, according to some, of _boiling up_, _ferment_,

whilst others refer it to the Hebrew verb signifying _to press out_.

Whether an advantage or otherwise, to the Romans undoubtedly we owe

_signboards_. The _bush_, which was for ages with us the sign of an

inn, we owe immediately to them. Our proverb, ‘Good wine needs no

bush,’ is of course own child to the Latin ‘_Vino vendibili suspensa

hedera non opus est_’--‘Wine that will sell needs no advertisement.’

Our sign of ‘Two Jolly Brewers’ carrying a tun slung on a long pole

is the counterpart of a relic from Pompeii representing two slaves

carrying an amphora.[6]

Again, our country owes to Roman influence the national custom of

toasting or health-drinking.

The present writer has observed elsewhere[7] that among the Romans

luxury was carried to unbounded excess. Many were their forms of

revelry; amongst these were _comissationes_, or drinking bouts pure

and simple. At these no food was taken, save as a relish to the wine.

Specimens of their toasting formalities will be found in several

classical authors.[8]

It were idle to imagine that the Britons were uninfluenced by such

marked features of social life. If these customs had not been adopted

by them before the time of Agricola, it is certain that when that most

diplomatic of governors held sway here, he would teach the _jeunesse

dorée_ to drink healths to the emperor, and to toast the British belles

of the hour in brimming bumpers. Sensual banquets, with their attendant

revelry, no less than spacious baths and elegant villas, speedily

became as palatable to the new subjects as to their corrupt masters.[9]

Intemperance was no stranger to any rank of society. Not even the

imperial purple was stainless.[10] Thus was the soil prepared for the

seed so abundantly to be sown when the Saxon, the Roman’s successor,

should incorporate himself with our British population.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] σίκερα is of course akin to the Hebrew shâkar שֵׁכָר, and it is at

least curious that the three important potables may be referred to

Hebrew origin: _Wine_, to the Greek οἶνος, Hebrew יַיִן _Yayin_, and

_Beer_ possibly to the Hebrew בר _corn_ without the vowel point.

[2] _Natural History_, iv. 17.

[3] _Britannia_, London, 1590. ‘Quas in Britannia ex Probi Imperatoris

tempore umbraculi magis quam fructus gratiâ habuimus.’

[4] ‘Vineas etiam quibusdam in locis germinant.’

[5] _Chronicles_, i. 186.

[6] A mass of information upon the subject of signboards has been

collected by Messrs. Larwood and Hotten in their _History of

Signboards_.

[7] _History of Toasting_; London, 1881.

[8] _E.g._--‘Te nominatim voco in bibendo.’

‘Bene te! Bene tibi!’

‘Salutem tibi propino.’

‘Bacchi tibi sumimus haustus.’

Compare also Tibul. II. i. 33: ‘Bene Messalam! sua quisque ad pocula

dicat.’

Plautus. _Curcul._ ii. 3, 8: ‘Propino poculum magnum, ille ebibit.’

Cicero. _Tuscul. Disput._ i. 40: ‘Propino hoc pulcro Critiæ, qui in eum

fuerat teterrimus; Græci enim in conviviis solent nominare cui poculum

tradituri sint.’

Zumpt interprets ‘Græco more’ as ‘Mos propinandi,’ or the custom of

addressing the person to whom you wish well, and offering him a glass

to empty, after having first put it to your lips.--Cf. Martial, lib. i.

Ep. 72, Horace iii. Ode 19.

[9] The moral depravity and social degradation of the Roman world at

this time is forcibly described by Salvian, the Bishop of Marseilles,

in his _De Gubernatione Dei_. This treatise was translated into

English, London, 1700.

[10] It is recorded of the Emperor Bonosus that so notorious a drinker

was he that when he committed suicide, A.D. 281, after his defeat in

Banffshire, it was the common jest with the soldiers that there hung a

tankard and not a man.

Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History · 第 1 / 14 章