Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein--Mouths of the Osage--Manito

Rocks--Village of Franklin

The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Loutre Creek

is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which can be

distinguished running far to the north-east. Towards the river

these fall off in perpendicular precipices, whose bases are

concealed in a dense growth of trees and underwood. From their

summits huge masses of rock have fallen; and some of these are

of such magnitude, that their summits rise above the surrounding

forest. One standing opposite the head of the island next above

Loutre, is marked with numerous rude drawings, executed by the

Indians; some representing men with the heads of bisons, spears,

arrows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock the Gasconade enters

the Missouri from the south. The sources of this river are in

the hilly country, near those of some of the larger tributaries

of the Yungar fork of the Osage; its waters are transparent, and

its current rapid. Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has

not the uniformity of current common to many of the branches of

the Missouri, but is varied by numerous cataracts and rapids,

affording convenient stations for water-mills. Some saw-mills

have already been erected; and from them a supply of pine-timber

is brought to the settlements on the Missouri, that tree being

rarely met with here, except in the hilly country. The Gasconade is

navigable for a few miles. As might be expected, a projected town

is placed at the confluence of this {74} river and the Missouri,

and is to be called Gasconade.[103]

Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the Missouri is

the same as below, except that the hills are discontinued on the

left side, and make their appearance on the right, extending along

eight or nine miles; above this both shores are low bottom

grounds.

Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions, we left

Loutre Island on the 3d of July; and passing in succession the

mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the Au Vase, and other

tributaries, we anchored on the evening of the 5th, above the

little village of Cote Sans Dessein.[104] This place contains

about thirty families, mostly French, occupying as many small log

cabins, scattered remotely along the left bank of the river.

Nearly opposite the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just

above the town is the elevated insular hill, which has given name

to the place; it extends about eight hundred yards, parallel to

the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream called

Revoe's Creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging a small

stream of water into the creek. The site of the settlement of Cote

Sans Dessein is remarkable on account of the fertility of the

soil, the black mould extending to the depth of about four feet.

The soil is very rich for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of

the village; but the uncertainty of the titles, arising from the

conflicting claims, founded on the basis of pre-emption, New

Madrid grants, and the concession of a large tract opposite the

mouth of the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favour of Mr.

Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population.[105]

At the time of the late war the inhabitants of this settlement,

relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but erected two

stockades, and block-houses for their defence; the Sauks, assisted

by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a feigned attack and {75}

retreat, induced the greater part of the men to pursue them,

gained their rear by means of an ambuscade, and entering the

village, raised their war-cry at the doors of the cabins. The

women and children fled in consternation to the block-houses. At

this juncture a young man was seen, who would not abandon his

decrepit mother, even though she entreated him to fly and save his

own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to live but a few

days, to the mercy of the savages. The youth, instead of listening

to her request, raised her upon his shoulders, and ran towards the

stockade, closely pursued by the Indians. They fired several times

upon him, and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made

in his favour.

After killing the villagers who had fallen into their hands, the

Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade. The block-house at

this work was defended by two men, and several women. On hearing

the war-cry, this little but determined garrison responded to it

in such a manner as to communicate to the Indians the idea that

the block-house contained a considerable number of men. They,

therefore, proceeded to the attack with caution. In the first

onset, one of the two men received a mortal wound, which made him

incapable of further exertion--the other continued to discharge

the guns at the besiegers, they being loaded and put into his

hands by the women. One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians,

had nearly proved successful. They threw burning torches upon the

roof, which was several times on fire; but the women, with

admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity, ascended to

the top of the building and extinguished the flames. This scene

continued during the entire day; and at evening, when the

assailants withdrew, a small portion only of the roof remained; so

often had the attempt to fire the building been repeated. The loss

sustained by the enemy was never correctly {76} ascertained; it

has since been stated by an Indian, that fourteen were killed and

several wounded, but many are of opinion that two or three only

were killed.

We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself, now

converted into a dwelling; but he did not appear to be greatly

esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except personal intrepidity

to recommend him.[106] Cote Sans Dessein contains a tavern, a

store, a blacksmith's shop, and a billiard table.

The Cane[107] is no where met with on the Missouri; but its place

is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale, which, remaining

green through the winter, affords an indifferent pasturage for

horned cattle and horses: to the latter, it often prove

deleterious. The inhabitants of St. Genevieve placed their horses

upon an island covered with rushes, where great numbers of them

shortly after died; but it was observed that such as received

regularly a small quantity of salt remained uninjured. Of a large

number of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the

Nishnebottona,[108] to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty

were found dead at the end of five days. May not the deleterious

properties of the equisetum hiemale depend, in some measure, on

the frozen water included in the cavity of the stalk?

We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at certain

seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious as to prove fatal,

when taken into the stomach; and this effect is commonly

attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be frequent in the low

grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle. They have a disease

called the _milk sickness_: it commences with nausea and

dizziness, succeeded by headache, pain in the stomach and bowels,

and finally, by a prostration of strength, which renders the

patient unable to stand; a general torpor soon ensues, succeeded

{77} by death. It is a common belief that the flesh of animals,

that have eaten of this poisonous weed, is noxious, and that

horses are destroyed by it.

We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the Ohio below

the rapids, that the milk of cows running at large in August is

poisonous; and this they do not fail to attribute to the effect

of noxious plants; and in some places they point out to you one,

and in another place another vegetable, to which they assign these

properties. The inhabitants generally seem to have no suspicion

that milk, unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article

of diet; and we have been often surprised to see it given to

those labouring under fever. Throughout the western states, and

particularly in the more remote settlements, much use is made of

butter-milk, and soured milk in various forms; all of which they

sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein we paid, for new milk,

twenty-five cents per gallon, and for soured milk, eighteen and

three-fourth cents. At that place twenty-five cents per quart were

demanded by the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the

French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the immediate

vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher price for any article

than the Anglo-Americans, under the same circumstances. Emigrants

from the southern states prefer sour milk; and the traveller's

taste in this particular, we have often observed, forms a test

to discover whether he is entitled to the opprobrious name of

_Yankee_, as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely

choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the sickliest parts

of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious and typhoid fevers

prevail, through the summer and autumn, the most unrestrained use

is made of butter, milk, eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr.

Baldwin was of opinion that the _milk sickness_ of the Missouri

did not originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eaten

by the cows, but {78} was a species of typhus, produced by putrid

exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious use of a milk

diet.

During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein, Dr. Baldwin,

though suffering much from weakness, and yielding perceptibly

to the progress of a fatal disease, was able to make several

excursions on shore. His devotion to a fascinating pursuit

stimulated him to exertions for which the strength of his wasted

frame seemed wholly inadequate; and it is not, perhaps, improbable

that his efforts may have somewhat hastened the termination of his

life.

Between Loutre Island and Cote Sans Dessein compact limestone

occurs, in horizontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri

valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a

somewhat concoidal fracture, containing few organic remains. It

alternates with sandstones, having a silicious cement.[109] These

horizontal strata are deeply covered with soil, usually a

calcareous loam, intermixed with decayed vegetable matter.

July 6th.--Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein,

we passed the upper and larger mouth of the Osage river. Here, to

use the language of the country, a town has been _located_, and

the lots lately disposed of at St. Louis, at various prices, from

fifty to one hundred and eighty dollars each.[110] Within the

limits of this town is a considerable hill, rising at the point of

the junction of the two rivers, and running parallel to the

Missouri. From its summit is an extensive view of the village of

Cote Sans Dessein, and the surrounding country.

The river of the Osages, so called from the well-known tribe of

Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri one hundred and

thirty-three miles above the confluence of the latter river with

the Mississippi. Its sources are in the Ozark mountains, opposite

those of the White river of the Mississippi, and of the Neosho,

{79} a tributary of the Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the

north-western slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the

east several rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is

the Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the great

number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage one hundred

and forty miles from the Missouri.

In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the Cumberland

and Tennessee. It has been represented as navigable for six

hundred miles; but as its current is known to be rapid, flowing

over great numbers of shoals and sand-bars, this must be

considered an exaggeration. In the lower part of its course it

traverses broad and fertile bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of

sycamore and cotton trees. We may expect the country along the

banks of this river will soon become the seat of a numerous

population, as it possesses in a fertile soil and a mild climate,

advantages more than sufficient to compensate for the difficulty

of access, and other inconveniences of situation.

The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance above the

confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's Creek enters three

miles above; and at its mouth is Cedar Island, where we anchored

for the night. This island is three miles long, and has furnished

much cedar timber for the settlements below; but its supply is now

nearly exhausted.[111]

In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled among

great numbers of _snags_ and _planters_, and had a cat-head

carried away by one of them. In shutting off the steam on this

occasion, one of the valves was displaced; and as we were no

longer able to confine the steam, the engine became useless, the

boat being thus exposed to imminent danger. At length we succeeded

in extricating ourselves; and came to an anchor near the entrance

of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis and Clarke.[112]

{80} At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus clouds

skirted the horizon: above these we observed a comet bearing

north-west by north. Above the mouth of the Osage, the immediate

valley of the Missouri gradually expands, embracing some wide

bottoms, in which are many settlements increasing rapidly in the

number of inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other

precipitous cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills

running in quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion

rapids in the river, as in the instance of the Manito rocks;

opposite which commences a group of small islands stretching

obliquely across the Missouri, and separated by narrow channels,

in which the current is stronger than below. Some of these

channels we found obstructed by collections of floating trees,

which usually accumulate about the heads of islands, and are here

called rafts. After increasing to a certain extent, portions of

these rafts becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes

covering nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering the

safety, and impeding the progress, of such boats as are ascending.

The group above mentioned is called the Thousand Islands.

Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other towns of

similar character and name, containing from one to half a dozen

houses each, are to be met with in a few miles above the Little

Manito rocks. Almost every settler, who has established himself on

the Missouri, is confidently expecting that his farm is, in a few

years, to become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for

an extensive district.[113]

The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alternation of

low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche à Pierce Creek is a

small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice

Creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of

rocky cliffs, penetrated by numerous cavities and fissures, {81}

hence called by the French boatmen, Roche a Piercè, and giving

name to the creek.[114] These rocks we found filled with organic

remains, chiefly encrinites. About eight or ten miles above this

point the Missouri again washes the base of the rocky hills, which

bound its immediate valley. The rocks advance boldly to the brink

of the river, exhibiting a perpendicular front, variegated with

several colours arranged in broad stripes. Here is a fine spring

of water gushing out at the base of the precipice; over it are

several rude paintings executed by the Indians. These cliffs are

called the Big Manito rocks, and appear to have been objects of

peculiar veneration with the aborigines, and have accordingly

received the name of their Great Spirit.

It is not to be understood that the general surface of the

country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by continuous

ridges, which, in their course across the valley of the Missouri,

occasion the alternation of hill and plain; which to a person

ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous feature of the

country. The immediate valley of the Missouri preserves great

uniformity in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of

rocky bluffs rising from one to two hundred feet above the surface

of the included valley, and separating it from those vast woodless

plains which overspread so great a part of the country.

Meandering from right to left along this valley the river

alternately washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while,

from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy forests

intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points where they

are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito rocks, and the island

of the same name, is the Little Saline river, on the left side;

and three or four miles above, on the opposite side, a stream

called the Big Manito Creek.[115] Here we passed the night of the

12th July. About midnight so violent a storm arose that we were

{82} compelled to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being

blown down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the

storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of one

inch and an half.

After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the morning of

the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin. This town, at

present, increasing more rapidly than any other on the Missouri,

had been commenced but two years and an half before the time of our

journey. It then contained about one hundred and twenty log houses

of one story, several framed dwellings of two stories, and two of

brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandize, four taverns,

two smiths' shops, two large team-mills, two billiard-rooms, a

court-house, a log prison of two stories, a post-office, and a

printing-press issuing a weekly paper. At this time bricks were

sold at ten dollars per thousand, corn at twenty-five cents per

bushel, wheat one dollar, bacon at twelve and a half cents per

pound, uncleared lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per

acre. The price of labour was seventy-five cents per day.

In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on the left

side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein. In three years,

their numbers had increased to more than eight hundred families.

The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and have the same

prolific and inexhaustible soil as those below. The labour of one

slave is here reckoned sufficient for the culture of twenty acres

of Indian corn, and produces ordinarily about sixty bushels per

acre, at a single crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky,

fifteen acres of corn are thought to require the labour of one

slave, and the crop being less abundant, we may reckon the

products of agriculture there, at about one third part less than

in the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of {83}

justice for Howard county. It stands on a low and recent alluvial

plain, and has behind it a small stagnant creek. The bed of the

river, near the shore, has been heretofore obstructed by

sand-bars, which prevented large boats from approaching the town;

whether this evil will increase or diminish, it is not possible to

determine; such is the want of stability in every thing belonging

to the channel of the Missouri. It is even doubtful whether the

present site of Franklin will not, at some future day, be occupied

by the river, which appears to be at this time encroaching on its

bank. Similar changes have happened in the short period since the

establishments of the first settlements on the Missouri. The site

of St. Anthony, a town which existed about thirteen years since,

near Bon Homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river.

Opposite Franklin is Boonsville, containing, at the time of our

visit, eight houses, but having, in some respects, a more

advantageous situation, and probably destined to rival, if not

surpass, its neighbour.[116]

Numerous brine springs are found in the country about Franklin.

Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest settlement in

this vicinity, and for some time gave name to the surrounding

country. Some furnaces have been erected, and salt is manufactured,

in sufficient quantities to supply the neighbouring settlements.

Compact limestone appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well

known that the coal-beds, and strata of sand-stone, occur at a

little distance from the river.[117] We visited one establishment

for the manufacture of salt. The brine is taken from a spring at

the surface of the earth, and is not remarkably concentrated,

yielding only one bushel of salt to each four hundred and fifty

gallons. Eighty bushels are manufactured daily, and require three

cords of wood for the evaporation of the water. The furnace

consists of a chimney-like funnel, rising obliquely along the side

of a hill, {84} instead of the vertical and horizontal flues,

commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being kindled in

the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air drives the flame

against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in a double series;

to these the water is conveyed by small pipes. The banks of the

ravine in which this spring rises, still retain the traces of those

numerous herds of bisons, elk, and other herbivorous animals, which

formerly resorted here for their favourite condiment.

While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party received

many gratifying attentions, particularly from Gen. T. A. Smith, at

whose house they were often hospitably received, and where they

all dined by invitation on the 17th of July.[118] Here we met

several intelligent inhabitants of the village, and of the

surrounding country, from whose conversation we were able to

collect much information of the character of the country, and the

present condition of the settlements.

Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us, that being on a

hunting excursion, in the year 1816, he remained some time on a

branch of the Le Mine river, where he found the relics of the

encampment of a large party of men, but whether of white troops,

or Indian warriors, he could not determine. Not far from this

encampment, he observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet

in height, which he was induced to believe must be a cachè, or

place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying the

encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which they could not

remove with them on their departure. He accordingly opened the

mound, and was surprised to find in it the body of a white

officer, apparently a man of rank, and which had been interred

with extraordinary care.

The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an Indian rush mat,

with its back resting against some logs placed around it in the

manner of a log house, enclosing {85} a space of about three by

five feet, and about four feet high, covered at top with a mat

similar to that beneath. The clothing was still in sufficient

preservation to enable him to distinguish a red coat, trimmed with

gold lace, golden epaulets, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished

also with gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head

was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick, with the

initials J. M. C. engraved upon a golden head, reclined against

the arm, but was somewhat decayed where it came in contact with

the muscular part of the leg. On raising the hat, it was found

that the deceased had been hastily scalped.

To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could not

determine. He observed, however, that the button taken from the

shoulder, had the word Philadelphia moulded upon it. The cane

still remains in the possession of the narrator, but the button

was taken by another of his party.

In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that when he

commanded the United States' troops in this department, he was

informed of an action that had taken place near the Le Mine, in

the Autumn of 1815, between some Spanish dragoons, aided by a few

Pawnee Indians, and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course

of this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy, who

was endeavouring to escape with a musket on his shoulder, but who

finding himself nearly overtaken, had discharged the musket behind

him at random, and had killed the officer on the spot. The

skirmish continuing, the body was captured, and recaptured several

times, but at last remained with the Spanish party. This may

possibly have been the body discovered by Mr. Munroe, but by whom

it was buried, in a manner so singular, is unknown.

About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the Missouri

began to subside at Franklin. On the {86} 17th the water fell

twelve inches, though in the preceding week more than two inches

of rain had fallen. We were informed that the floods had continued

longer this year, and had risen higher than usual, owing to the

unusual quantities of rain that had fallen.

FOOTNOTES:

[103] Of Gasconade in 1823 it is said, "very few buildings are

as yet erected, and it is very doubtful whether its increase

will be as rapid as was anticipated." It was the first seat of

Gasconade County, but was supplanted by Hermann. At present its

population numbers less than one hundred.

The description of Gasconade River is adequate. The "Yungar"

fork of Osage is now called Niangua (Osage word for bear).--ED.

[104] Au Vase (Muddy) has been corrupted to Auxvasse, and there

are now two streams in Callaway County bearing this name. The

larger, also called Big Muddy Creek, is the first important

stream above the Gasconade. Bear (or Loose) Creek, is seven

miles farther up, and the second Auxvasse, which answers the

description in the text, is just beyond. Other tributaries are

Deer Creek, from the south, just above Big Muddy River, and

Middle River, from the north, opposite Bear Creek. The stream

called Revoe's Creek a few lines below, is now Rivaux (Rivals)

Creek.

For Côte Sans Dessein, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising our

volume v, note 20.--ED.

[105] The grants of land in Louisiana under Spanish rule were

in a marked degree irregular and heterogeneous. Only those were

complete which had received endorsement by the governor-general

at New Orleans. Most of the settlers were too poor to undertake

the journey thither and pay the required fees; a tacit right

of occupation was therefore permitted by the local officials,

lands were unsurveyed, and much confusion resulted. During the

last decade of Spanish authority (1794-1804) large numbers of

Americans had been tempted to cross the Mississippi and stake

out claims in upper Louisiana. Some of these were bona fide

settlers, more mere speculators; and after the rumor of Spanish

cession to France was heard, fraudulent grants were made in

large numbers. Upon knowledge of this, the congress of the

United States in the act of March 26, 1804, revoked all grants

made since the treaty of San Ildefonso (1800) with a proviso

exempting the rights of actual settlers. This law created much

dissatisfaction, and petitions for redress were sent from both

upper Louisiana and Orleans Territory. See _American State

Papers_, "Miscellaneous," i, pp. 396-405. Thereupon Congress

passed acts for redress--that for upper Louisiana (March 2,

1805) creating a commission, which first met in St. Louis,

September 20, 1806; but its final report was not made until

1812. See _American State Papers_, "Public Lands," ii, pp.

388-603.

The lands set apart for the relief of sufferers by the New

Madrid earthquakes were known as "New Madrid grants." Auguste

Chouteau established the first distillery in St. Louis by the

aid of an extensive grant.--ED.

[106] The hero of this exploit was a Frenchman bearing the name

of Baptiste Louis Roi.--ED.

[107] Miegia macrosperma of Persoon.--JAMES.

[108] The Nishnebottona (Nishnabotna) enters the Missouri in

Atchison County, in the northwest corner of the state. See

_post_, note 166.--ED.

[109] From Bay Charles Hill, four miles below Hannibal,

Missouri, we received, through Dr. Sommerville, several organic

remains. Among them are the following:--

Carbonate of Lime.

One specimen contains exclusive quantities of segments of the

encrinite of small diameter, from one-fourth of an inch down

to minute.

Another specimen also, with numerous small encrinites, has a

very wide and short radiated productus.

Another specimen, a grayish chert, containing cavities formed

by the solution and disappearance of encrinites. The parts of

these which were originally hollow when in the state of

carbonate of lime, being subsequently filled with chert, now

show the nature of the fossil, being cylindrical cavities,

with a solid centre and transverse partitions, the largest

three-tenths of an inch wide.

From Rector's-hill, adjoining the village of Clarksville,

Missouri, from Dr. Sommerville's collection:--

A specimen of oolite--carbonate of lime.

It is composed of small spherical granules in contact with

each other, which, in their fracture, exhibit rather a

concentric tendency, with the appearance of a central nucleus;

but we could not perceive any decided evidences of former

organization in them. Imbedded in the mass are a few columnar

segments of encrinites, and a portion of a compressed bivalve,

which, in the form of its radiating lines, resembles a pecten.

From Charbonière:--

A specimen in argillaceous sandstone of a portion of a leaf

like the nelumbium. It is only the middle portion of the

impression of the leaf that remains, being of an oval form of

about five inches in greatest diameter, the rest being broken

away; the stalk has been broken off at the junction of the

leaf.

Productus spinosus. SAY.

A small species of terebratula, in width two-fifths, and in

length more than seven-tenths of an inch--an internal

cast--individuals very numerous, varying much in size, the

smallest being about one-fifth of an inch wide.

From the Mammelles near St. Charles:--

Productus: a portion of a valve, and smaller portion of the

opposite valve of a remarkably large species, of which the

proportions may have been not dissimilar to that of the Ency.

Meth. pl. 244. fig. 5. The striæ are similar to those of that

shell, except in being somewhat smaller; and the groove of one

valve, and consequent elevation of the other, not so profound,

less abrupt, and more angular in the middle, and far less

prominent on the edge of the shell. It may justly be named

_grandis_, as its hinge width was more than 3-1/2 inches.--JAMES.

[110] The town established here was Osage City. In 1823 it was

described as still "nearly in a state of nature." The present

population is about five hundred.--ED.

[111] Moreau's Creek (River à Morou, Marrow Creek, Murrow Creek)

flows from the south. Moreau signifies "extremely black."

Just above Cedar Island is Jefferson City (Missouriopolis on the

map,) the state capital.--ED.

[112] Mast Creek cannot be identified with certainty, as there

are several small creeks where Lewis and Clark locate it,

fourteen and a half miles above Cedar Island. The name was given

because of an accident to the mast of their vessel.--ED.

[113] Nashville was laid out in 1819, on land owned by a man

named Nash. The site was on the river, just below Providence,

Boone County, but the town was destroyed by a change of the

channel.

The site of Smithton was a half mile west of the court house

in the town of Columbia, but the difficulty in obtaining water

there led to removal in 1820 to the site of Columbia. The

original town was named Smithton in honor of Thomas A. Smith,

land office register at Franklin. See _post_, note 118.--ED.

[114] Roche à Pierce is a corruption of a phrase meaning

"pierced rock," which has been restored in the present name of

the stream (Roche Percée). The mouth of the river is just above

Providence.

On some maps, Splice Creek is Spice Creek.--ED.

[115] The Little Saline (Petite Saline) flows from the south.

Big Manito Creek (now corrupted to Moniteau) debouches at

Rocheport, on the north side of the river. Another Moniteau

Creek enters the Missouri from the south, at the Thousand

Islands, near the boundary between Cole and Moniteau

counties.--ED.

[116] The disaster feared actually occurred in 1828. Franklin

was laid off in 1816, being named for the famous Philadelphian.

For a decade it was a town of considerable importance. It was

the county seat, contained the United States land office, and

was the point of departure for the Santa Fé country. Most of the

inhabitants hailed from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia, and

at one time numbered between fifteen hundred and two thousand.

When the encroachments of the river drove away the residents,

they founded New Franklin, two miles distant, and thereafter the

earlier site was known as Old Franklin.--ED.

[117] In compact limestone, which had been subjected to the

action of fire, we observed segments of encrinites becoming

easily detached. They were three-fifths of an inch in diameter,

varying to the size of fine sand. At Boonsville we found a small

ostrea and a terebratula, in carbonate of lime.--JAMES.

[118] Thomas A. Smith, a native of Virginia, attained

the rank of brigadier-general during the War of 1812-15.

Resigning his commission in 1818, he was appointed receiver of

the land office at Old Franklin, Missouri. In 1826 he removed

to a large tract of prairie land on Salt Fork, Saline County,

about eight miles from Marshall. This being one of the

earliest attempts to occupy prairie land, Smith called his

estate "Experiment." He was an intimate friend of Senator

Thomas A. Benton. See volume xvi of our series, note 91, for

his military record.--ED.

{87} CHAPTER V

Death of Dr. Baldwin--Charaton River, and Settlement--Pedestrian

Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage.

Dr. Baldwin's health had so much declined that, on our arrival at

Franklin, he was induced to relinquish the intention of ascending

farther with the party. He was removed on shore to the house of

Dr. Lowry, intending to remain there until he should recover so

much strength as might enable him to return to his family. But the

hopes of his friends, even for his partial recovery, were not to be

realized. He lingered a few weeks after our departure, and expired

on the thirty-first of August. His diary, in which the latest date

is the eighth of August, only a few days previous to his death,

shows with what earnestness, even in the last stages of weakness

and disease, his mind was devoted to the pursuit, in which he had

so nobly spent the most important part of his life. He has left

behind him a name which will long be honoured;--his early death

will be regretted not only by those who knew his value as a friend,

but by all the lovers of that fascinating science, to which his

life was dedicated, and which his labours have so much contributed

to advance and embellish. We regret that it is not in our power to

add to this inadequate testimony of respect, such notices of the

life and writings of Dr. Baldwin, as might be satisfactory to our

readers. His manuscripts were numerous, but his works were left

unfinished. The remarks on the Rotbollia, published in Silliman's

Journal, are his only productions, as far as we are informed,

hitherto before the public.[119] His Herbarium, it is well known,

{88} has contributed to enrich the works of Pursh and Nuttall. He

was the friend and correspondent of the venerable Muhlenbergh, and

contributed materials for the copious catalogue of North American

plants, published by that excellent botanist. In South America

he met with Bonpland, the illustrious companion of Humboldt, and

a friendly correspondence was established between them, which

continued until his death.[120] He had travelled extensively,

not only in South America, but in Georgia, Florida, and other

parts of North America. His notes and collections are extensive

and valuable. During the short period of his connection with the

exploring party, the infirmities, resulting from a long established

and incurable pulmonary disease, then rapidly approaching its fatal

termination, could not overcome the activity of his mind, or divert

his attention entirely from his favourite pursuit. Though unable

to walk on shore, he caused plants to be collected and brought

on board the boat; and not disheartened by the many vexations

attending this method of examination, he persevered, and in the

course of the voyage from Pittsburgh to Franklin, detected and

described many new plants, and added many valuable observations

relating to such as were before known. To show the scope and

accuracy of his method of observation, and for the gratification

of the botanical reader, we subjoin a part of the observations

registered in Dr. Baldwin's diary, from July 15th, the time of our

departure from Cote Sans Dessein, to its conclusion. From this the

reader will be able to form a satisfactory idea of the vegetable

physiognomy of the country on this portion of the banks of the

Missouri.[121]

Messrs. Say, Jessup, Seymour, and Dougherty, accompanied by Major

Biddle, left Franklin on the 19th of July, intending to traverse

the country by land, to Fort Osage, where they proposed to await

the arrival of the steamboat. A pack-horse was purchased {89} for

the transportation of their baggage, and a tent, blankets, and

provisions, furnished for their accommodation.

The party now remaining on board the steam-boat, consisted of

Major Long, Major O'Fallon, Mr. Peale, and Lieutenants Graham and

Swift. Having completed some repairs of machinery, and other

necessary operations, which had occasioned a delay of six days at

Franklin, we left that place on the same day, at four o'clock in

the afternoon. The inhabitants of the village were assembled on

the banks of the river to witness our departure, and signified

their good wishes by repeated cheers and acclamations. The fuel we

had taken on board, being of an indifferent quality, we were able

to make small progress against the rapid current of the Missouri.

We anchored, for the night, three miles above Franklin. Finding

the valves, and other parts of the steam-engine, so much worn by

the fine sand, suspended in the water of the river, as to become

leaky, we were compelled to lie by, and were occupied for a day in

making repairs. In the meantime the boat's crew were employed in

taking on board a supply of dry mulberry wood, which is the best

that the forests along the Missouri afford. The water in the river

was now subsiding, and the rapidity of the current consequently

diminishing; we did not, therefore, so much regret the necessary

delays, as we might otherwise have done. Some of the party went

out on the south-west side of the river, to search for game. Most

of the deer, and larger animals, as well as the turkies, have

fled from this part of the country, though it is but a few years

since they were extremely abundant; they met, however, with a

racoon, the Maryland arctomys, some small birds, and some

interesting little animals. After leaving the river bottom, they

passed some groves of small scattered oak trees, and bushes, and

arrived at the margin of a wide grassy plain, which spread before

them as unvaried, {90} and apparently as boundless as the ocean,

and which is said to extend uninterrupted, near three hundred

miles, to the Arkansa.

At evening a soldier came on board the boat, who had been sent

express from Colonel Chambers' command. He brought intelligence

that the detachment had arrived within fifteen miles of Fort

Osage, and that their provisions were nearly exhausted.

Charaton, where we arrived on the 22d, is a small village, its

settlement having been commenced in the year 1817. It is, however,

in a flourishing condition, and from the advantages of its

situation, promises to become one of the most important towns on

the Missouri. It does not stand immediately on the bank of the

Missouri, but of the Charaton river, about seven hundred yards

above its mouth. Charaton will be the depot of merchandize, for a

large extent of fertile country, which lies towards the north and

east. At this time, the settlement contained about fifty houses,

and near five hundred inhabitants, on a spot where two years

previous, no permanent habitation had been established. Such is

the rapidity, with which the forests of the Missouri are becoming

filled with an enterprising and industrious population.[122]

Charaton river is seventy-five yards wide at its mouth, and

navigable, at high water, one hundred and fifty miles. Half a

mile from its confluence with the Missouri, it receives the

Little Charaton, also a considerable stream, and navigable for

many miles. The Charaton originates near the De Moyen[123] river

of the Mississippi, and traverses a country which is of great

importance, both on account of the fertility of its soil, and its

inexhaustible mines of coal. The Western Engineer, being the first

steam-boat that had ever ascended the Missouri, above Charaton,

great numbers of the settlers were attracted to the banks of the

river, on both sides, to witness our progress. So numerous were

the obstacles to be encountered, that many were of opinion our

progress {91} would soon be arrested. It sometimes happened, that

mistaking the channel, we ran our boat aground in shoal places,

and in some instances it was necessary to fall back, in order to

extricate ourselves from these difficulties. In this way much time

was consumed.

The expansions of the Missouri bottom above Franklin have, since

their settlement, received distinctive names. We pass on the south

the Chenai au Barre, Tabeau, Tite-saw, and Miami bottoms; on the

north, those of Charaton, Sugar-tree, and Grand river. These are

wild and fertile plains, usually covered with heavy forests of

cotton-wood, sycamore, ash, and sugar-maple, and partly encircled

by the bluffs, rising abruptly, about to the elevation of the

highest trees, thence sloping gradually to the prairies, the

region of the Gramina, and the Cyperacæa. Eighteen miles above

Charaton, is the entrance of Grand river an important tributary to

the Missouri from the north. This river is one hundred and fifty

yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable for boats of small

burthen, about two hundred miles. Its waters are transparent,

except in times of high floods, and its current less rapid than

that of the Missouri. There are no settlements on its banks,

except at the mouth, where is a trading house, and the residence

of a single family. The lands are, however, of a good quality, and

the adequate supply of timber, and numerous springs of water, will

ensure their speedy settlement. The Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways, hunt

in the plains towards the sources of Grand river, where elk and

deer are still numerous, and the latter dispose of their pelfries

to the traders on the Missouri.[124]

The navigation of the Missouri, for a few miles above and below

the mouth of Grand river, is supposed to be more difficult than at

almost any other place, owing to the rapidity of the current, and

the numerous sand-bars and snags. Two miles above the confluence

is the channel called Grand river {92} Cut-Off, so thickly set

with snags as to be almost impassable. The distance by the Cut-Off

to the head of the island is three-fourths of a mile; by the

course of the river to the same point it is six miles.[125] We

followed the old channel, which is much obstructed by trunks of

trees and sand-bars, and after a few hours succeeded in ascending

this dangerous pass. Compact limestone, and argillaceous

sandstone, occur frequently along the Missouri, above the mouth of

Grand river, and indications of coal are often met with. In a

country affording but an insufficient supply of timber for the

consumption of a dense population, these extensive beds of fossil

coal will be considered of great value, and the necessities of the

inhabitants will lead to their early exploration. Whenever the

dominion of man is sufficiently established in these vast plains

to prevent the annual ravages of fires, trees will spring up; but

we may expect that before forests originating in this manner can

arrive at maturity, the population along the banks of the Missouri

will become so dense, as to require the greater part of the soil

for the purposes of culture.

The beds of coal in this district lie horizontally, varying much

in thickness, and occurring often at an elevation of a few feet

above the surface of the water in the Missouri.[126]

On the first of August we arrived at Fort Osage, one hundred and

five miles above the mouth of Grand river. Here Mr. Say and his

party had been some days encamped, having arrived on the 24th of

July from their equestrian journey across the country from

Franklin. After leaving that place on the 19th, they passed

through a fine bottom on the left side of the river, closely

covered with forests of oaks, elms, hackberry, walnut, the

mulberry, the gleditschia, the guilandina, and the other trees

common on the Missouri, for twelve miles, when they arrived at

Arrow rock, where is a ferry by which they crossed {93} the

Missouri. In this walk they passed a field of corn, containing

seven hundred acres. The ferry boat used at Arrow rock is one

peculiarly adapted to the navigation of a rapid stream. It

consists of two canoes, on which rests a platform, with a slight

railing to prevent cattle from falling off.

Arrow rock is so called from its having been formerly resorted to,

by the neighbouring Indians, for the stone used to point their

arrows. It is a beautiful situation, and rises to considerable

elevation above the water.[127] From its summit is a pleasing view

of the river, and near the base is a remarkable eddy, which, as

they were crossing, whirled their ferry-boat entirely round. On

the second day they left their encampment at an early hour, and

travelled forward through plains where very few trees were to be

seen. They turned off from the Osage trace, in which they had been

travelling, and went eight miles to visit the salt-works, and some

remarkable diggings, on the saline fork of the Le Mine. Here, at

one establishment, one hundred bushels of salt are manufactured

per week; eight men are employed, and one hundred and eighty

gallons of water are evaporated to produce a bushel of salt.[128]

Two miles from the confluence of the Camp Fork with the Saline,

are the salt-works, and the residence of Mr. Lockhart, who

received the detachment with much hospitality.

His works were not then in operation, but were sufficiently

extensive for the manufacture of five hundred bushels of salt per

week. Near his house are the _diggings_ so often mentioned in this

region as objects of curiosity. These are irregular, but very

numerous excavations of little depth, but evidently the result of

the united labours of many persons who were possessed of

instruments of iron and steel, as no others could have penetrated,

and removed the compact rocky soil, of which the points and brows

of the hills are composed. These excavations occur frequently {94}

in an extent of two or three miles; and from the amount of labour

which appears to have been expended on them, it has been thought

by some, that several hundred men must have been occupied two or

three years in digging them; but this is, doubtless, much

overrated. Whoever were the labourers; it is probable their search

was for the precious metals, though at present no indications of

any metallic ores, except of a little iron, are perceptible about

the diggings. Mr. Lockhart had sunk a shaft to the depth of

twenty-two feet, but the appearances continued the same as at the

surface.[129]

After travelling forty miles from Arrow rock, for great part of

the way through open plains, where the high grass and weeds

rendered their progress difficult and laborious, they pitched

their tent, on the evening of July 21st, on a branch of the Le

Mine. Here they saw four Mississippi kites. The forks of the tail

of this bird are so much elongated as to resemble some fortuitous

appendage, for which, at first sight, they are often mistaken.

Sandhill cranes, and flocks of prairie hens were also seen, but

were so shy as not to be taken without much difficulty.

The country about the Le Mine is beautiful and fertile. The

unaccustomed eye, in roving over those extensive undulating

prairies, is beguiled by the alternation of forests and meadows,

arranged with an appearance of order, as if by the labour of men,

and seeks in vain to repose upon some cottage or mansion embosomed

in the little copses of trees, or in the edge of the forest, which

margins the small streams and ravines in the distance.

Their provisions being nearly exhausted, the detachment delayed a

short time at their encampment on the Le Mine, to replenish their

stock by hunting. This camp was near a place called the Grand

Pass, a narrow neck of prairie between the timber of the Saline,

and that of a small creek discharging directly {95} into the

Missouri. Here the Osage trace passes, and a little beyond falls

into a waggon-road leading to the Tabeau settlement.[130]

On the 22nd Major Biddle experienced a severe attack of cramp in

the stomach, but soon found some relief from swallowing a

quantity of ginger, the only medicine with which they were

provided. On the following day they entered the forests of the

Missouri bottom, and soon after crossed the Tabeau, where a town

of the same name, at that time containing two houses, had been

established. Tabeau is the name of a Canadian hunter, who formerly

frequented this region.[131] The creek is navigable to the site of

the projected town, about one mile from the Missouri, having for

this distance about six feet of water. Four miles from this place

they crossed the Little Tabeau, and at evening pitched their tent

on a stream called the Little Chenal au Barre, about a mile and a

half from the Missouri. Here is a good mill seat. The Great and

Little Chenal au Barre, are two creeks entering the Missouri about

a mile and a half from each other. Before the mouths of these two

creeks is a large island, the slough or Chenal dividing this

island from the shore, received the additional name of Au Barre

from a hunter known by that appellation, who was lost here for

some time, successively ascending the two creeks, which he mistook

for the Missouri; hence the name of Chenal au Barre island, Great

and Little Chenal au Barre Creek, &c.[132]

In the afternoon they halted to rest at the cabin of a hunter

on Fire Prairie Creek, so called from the circumstance of three

or four Indians having been burned to death by the sudden

conflagration of the dry grass in the meadows at its source.[133]

Here Mr. Say had an opportunity to examine a young black wolf,

which was confined by a chain at the door of the hut. These

animals are common in this part of the country. This individual

was one of five that had been taken from the same den. It had

become {96} familiar with the hunter and his family, but was shy

towards strangers. When fed on meat the ferocity of his disposition

manifested itself in attempts to bite the children. It was

ordinarily fed on bread and milk.

This man had been settled here two years, but had not "made a

crop," having subsisted himself and his family by hunting, wherein

he had been very successful. In the preceding autumn he had killed

seventy deer and fifty bears. He took great pleasure in relating

his hunting adventures, particularly his engagements with bears.

One bear which he had killed, he said, weighed seven hundred

pounds; but in this instance he was probably mistaken. He had seen

in the winter of 1818, a large herd of bisons near the Grand Pass;

but they had been driven down by the severity of the weather, and

were not ordinarily to be found within the limits of his hunting

excursions. During the severe wintry weather, he affirmed that

bears make for themselves a shelter of brushwood, into which they

creep to secure themselves from the cold.

From May until July the female of the common deer conceals her

young whilst she goes to feed. It is at this time that the hunters

take advantage of the maternal feelings of the animal to secure

their prey. They conceal themselves and imitate the cry of the

fawn. The solicitude of the parent animal for her young overcomes

her usual care for her own safety; and believing she hears the

cries of her offspring in distress, she hurries toward the spot

where the hunter lies concealed, and falls an easy prey.[134]

Mr. Say and his companions were very politely received by Col.

Chambers, then at Fort Osage. The rifle regiment was encamped

here, waiting the arrival of the contractor's boats.[135]

Fort Osage was established in 1808, by Gov. Lewis. It stands on an

elevated bluff, commanding a beautiful view of the river, both

above and below. The {97} works are a stockade, of an irregular

pentagonal form, with strong log pickets perforated with

loop-holes; two block houses are placed at opposite angles; one of

them, however, flanks one of its curtains too obliquely to be of

much service in defending it. There is also a small bastion at a

third angle. Within are two series of buildings for quarters,

store-houses, &c. The position of the fort is not a secure one, on

account of numerous ravines and declivities that would cover an

enemy within a short distance; but is such, that boats ascending

or descending the river must be exposed to its fire. The stream in

the middle of the river, and on the opposite side, is so

remarkably rapid, that it is in vain to contend against it with

the oar or paddle; it is, therefore, usually necessary for

ascending boats to enter the eddy, which brings them within

musket-shot of the fort.[136]

At the time of our journey, Fort Osage, which, according to our

estimate, is one hundred and forty-two miles, by the course of the

river, above Charaton, was the extreme frontier of the settlements.

For a great distance below, the establishments of the white

settlers were confined to the immediate banks of the Missouri. The

inhabitants of this frontier are mostly emigrants from Tennessee,

and are hospitable to strangers. Many of them are possessed of

considerable wealth. In the inhabitants of the new States and

Territories there is a manifest propensity, particularly in the

males, to remove westward, for which it is not easy to account.

The women, having their attention directed almost exclusively to

domestic pursuits, form local attachments, and establish habits,

which are not interrupted without occasioning some disquietude.

They are at first discontented in their new abode; in a few weeks

they become reconciled, but less attached than to their former

home; and, at length, by the habit of frequent migration, they {98}

acquire the same fondness for an adventurous unsettled life, as

characterises the men.

Daniel Boon, whose history is connected with that of all the new

settlements from Kentucky westward, answered to an inquiry

concerning the cause of his frequent change of residence, "I think

it time to remove when I can no longer fall a tree for fuel, so

that its top will lie within a few yards of the door of my

cabin."[137] The charms of that mode of life, wherein the

artificial wants and the uneasy restraints inseparable from a

crowded population are not known, wherein we feel ourselves

dependent immediately and solely on the bounty of nature, and the

strength of our own arm, will not be appreciated by those to whom

they are known only from description, though they never fail to

make an impression upon such as have acquired a knowledge of them

from experience. A settler on the Missouri observed to us, that

the land he at present occupied was not better than that he had

left in Tennessee; but he did not wish to spend all his life in

one place, and he had learned from experience, that a man might

live in greater ease and freedom where his neighbours were not

very numerous.

A person upwards of sixty years old, who had recently arrived at

one of the highest settlements of the Missouri, inquired of us

very particularly of the river Platte, and of the quality of the

lands about its source. We discovered that he had the most serious

intention of removing with his family to that river. On the last

day of July and the first of August, about two inches of rain

fell: the prevailing winds were from the north-east; but the

superior strata of the atmosphere carried clouds of different

descriptions in different, and sometimes opposite directions. The

moon soon after rising, passed behind a long dense body of cirrus

clouds, that floated over the eastern horizon. Long and distinct

radii were soon after seen converging to a point fifteen or twenty

of {99} the moon's diameters to the eastward of its disk. Such is

the refracting power of the aqueous vapors sometimes suspended in

the atmosphere.

Horizontal strata of sandstone and compact lime stone, are

disclosed in the cliffs on both sides the valley of the Missouri.

These rocks contain numerous remains of caryophilla, productus,

and terebratulæ.[138]

Some days passed after our arrival at Fort Osage, before the

weather admitted our making the astronomical observations

necessary to ascertain its position. The mean of the results of

several observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower

limb gave 39° 9′ 33-1/2″ north, for the latitude of the place.

FOOTNOTES:

[119] In a letter addressed to Mr. Frazer, an extract

from which was published in the tenth volume of the London

Journal of Literature and the Arts, Dr. Baldwin mentions

having discovered near Monte Video, in South America, the

_Solanum Tuberosum_ in its native locality. Mr. Lambert,

however, considered this plant as the _Solanum Commersoni_ of

Dunal; and though it produces tuberous roots, and in other

respects makes a near approach to S. tuberosum, he was not

satisfied of their identity, and remarks that it is yet to be

proved, that this is the stock from which the common potatoe

has been derived. It appears, however, that the original

locality of the solanum tuberosum has been ascertained by Ruiz

and Pavon, after having escaped the observation of Humboldt

and Bonpland.--JAMES.

[120] Frederick Pursh was born in Siberia, in 1774. Coming to

the United States at the age of twenty-five, he spent twelve

years in botanical studies, the results of which were published

in England under the title _Flora Americae Septentrionalis, or

a Systematic Arrangement and Description of the Plants of North

America_ (London, 2 vols., 1814). Pursh died at Montreal in

1820, while preparing a flora of Canada.

For sketch of Muhlenberg, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our

volume iii, note 9.

Aimé Bonpland (1773-1858) was a French scientist and traveller.

It has been said that the expedition of Humboldt and Bonpland

in tropical America (1799-1804) "laid the foundation of the

sciences of physical geography and meteorology in their larger

bearings." The fruit of their joint labors appeared at Paris

in 1807, under the title _Voyage aux régions équinoxiales du

nouveau continent_.--ED.

[121] Above Cote Sans Dessein, we saw frequently the Juglans

nigra, and J. pubescens, called white hickory; also a species of

Cratægus, which, though sometimes seen in Pennsylvania, appears

to be hitherto undescribed. Its fruit is large, yellow when

ripe, and of an agreeable flavour. On the evening of the 11th we

anchored opposite a steep bank, which I was assisted to climb;

but night came on, and put an end to our herbarizations before I

had the opportunity to collect any thing interesting. The soil

here is a dark vegetable mould, at least five feet in depth, and

little intermixed with sand. I ascended the same bank on the

following morning, but found nothing except a species of Carex

that I do not recollect to have seen before.

After getting under weigh, we passed high calcareous bluffs on

the left side of the river, covered with timber, and reminding

us of the deep umbrageous forests within the tropics.

Franklin, July 15th. Portulacca sativa, Solanum nigrum,

Urticapumila, Datura strammonium, and Phytolacca decandra,

occur by the road side. Blackberries were now ripe, but not

well-flavoured. Campanula Americana, the large Vernonia

mentioned at Cote Sans Dessein, now flowering.

Some plants were brought in, among which we distinguished the

Monarda fistulosa, Achillea millefolia, Cacalia atriplicifolia,

called "horse-mint," Queria canadensis, Menispermum lyoni,

Verbena urticifolia. The Annona triloba is frequent about

Franklin; also the Laurus benzoin, and the Symphoria now

in flower, the Rhus glabrum, Cercis canadensis, Ampelousis

quinquefolia, Eupatorium purpureum, in flower. Cucubalus

stellatus, still flowering. The Prickly-fruited Æsculus has

nearly ripened its nut, Zanthoxylon clava herculis, in fruit, a

"wild gourd" not in flower.

July 26th. The Gleditschia is a small tree here; Geum album,

Myosotis virginiana, Amaranthus hybridus, Erigeron canadense,

Solanum carolinianum, very luxuriant and still flowering. The

leaf of the Tilia glabra I found to measure thirteen inches in

length, and eleven in breadth. Bignonia radicans, Dioscorea

villosa, a Helianthus with a leaf margined with spines, the

narrow-leaved Brachystemum, the Lyatris pycnostachia, Rudbeckia

purpurea, and various others in flower. Juglans porcina and

cinerea, Ostrya virginica, Rhus copallinum.--August 4th. Dr.

Lowry informed me he has seen Pyrus coronaria, forty feet in

height, in the forests about Franklin. He showed me a Rudbeckia

about three feet high with a cone of dark purple flowers,

probably a new species.

5th. Eupatorium hieracifolium beginning to flower, Menispermum

canadense, here called "sarsaparilla," its slender yellow roots

being substituted for that article.

6th. A Mimulus is found here resembling M. ringens, but the

leaves are not sessile; peduncle very short, flowers large,

pink-coloured, stem acutely quadrangular; Campanula Americana,

three and a half feet high.--JAMES.

[122] The name of this river has undergone many changes,

appearing as Charleton, Charlatan, Chératon, Charliton,

Chareton, and Charlotte; the form Chariton has now become fixed.

The origin is unknown.

The town here mentioned, two miles north of Glasgow, was laid

out by Duff Green, a famous Jacksonian politician, and other

associates. The growth was for a few years so rapid that one

settler exchanged St. Louis lots for an equal number in

Chariton; but the location proved unhealthful, and was

abandoned in 1829. Monticello, on higher ground, a mile away,

and Thorntonsburg, at the mouth of the Chariton, were founded

in succession, but likewise disappeared. Glasgow, laid out in

1836, was the first permanent town in the vicinity.--ED.

[123] The Des Moines River. The Illinois Indians called their

habitat Moingona. The French contracted this to les Moins, and

called this stream la Rivière des Moins. Later the name became

associated with the Trappist monks (moines), and by a play on

words was changed to la Rivière des Moines.--ED.

[124] On the Sauk and Foxes, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our

volume v, note 21. For the Iowa, see Brackenridge's _Journal_,

in our volume vi, note 13.--ED.

[125] Changes in the river have obliterated the channel here

called the Cut-Off.--ED.

[126] The coal-fields of Missouri have an area of about

twenty-six thousand square miles; a line drawn southwest

from the mouth of the Des Moines River to Vernon County

roughly bounds the district. Northwest of this line every

county contains coal, and there are outlying patches on the

southeast.--ED.

[127] Arrow Rock (the Pièrre à flèche of early French explorers)

stands on the west side of the river, in Saline County. The

first settlements in the county were made in the neighboring

bottoms, and the earliest ferry west of Franklin crossed the

river at this point. The rock gave its name to a town founded

in 1829, which for a time was the county seat and an important

shipping point.--ED.

[128] Le Mine (Lamine, or La Mine) River empties into

the Missouri seven miles above Booneville, Cooper County.

Renaudière named the stream Rivière à la Mine, in 1723. It is

about a hundred and thirty miles long. Salt Fork, here called

"saline fork," the principal tributary, crosses Saline county

roughly parallel with the Missouri.--ED.

[129] In 1720 Philip Renault, director-general of mines of the

French colonies in America, sent prospecting parties from Fort

Chartres, into Missouri and Arkansas, to seek gold and silver.

These curious "diggings" are by some supposed to have been made

by his men. Charles Lockhart, mentioned in the text, employed a

number of men in 1819 in digging over some of these old pits,

but without making any important discoveries.--ED.

[130] Grand Pass received its name from the fact that the Osage

trace, connecting farther west with the Santa Fé trail, here

followed the narrow divide between Salt Fork and the Missouri

bottom. This "pass" is about a mile and a half long, and in one

place so narrow that a stone can be thrown across. A hotel was

built here in 1835, and a small village now occupies the spot.

For a short time during a flood in 1875, part of the water of

Salt Fork flowed across the divide.--ED.

[131] The entire courses of both the Tabeau and Little Tabeau

are within Lafayette County. The mouth of the larger is near the

boundary between Ray and Carroll counties. The name is sometimes

erroneously spelled Tabo and Tebo.--ED.

[132] For derivation of this name, see Brackenridge's _Journal_,

in our volume vi, note 14.--ED.

[133] This stream debouches at the boundary between Jackson and

Lafayette counties, south of the Missouri. Its name is usually

shortened to Fire Creek. Lewis and Clark applied the name Fire

Prairie Creek to a stream which entered from the north. No

stream nearer than Clear Creek, or Fishing Creek, five miles

above Fire Creek, answers their description.--ED.

[134] A variety of this species, the Cervus Virginianus, three

specimens of which occurred at Engineer cantonment, had all

the feet white near the hoofs, and extending to them on the

hind part from a little above the spurious hoofs. This white

extremity was divided upon the sides of the foot by the general

colour of the leg, which extended down near to the hoof, leaving

a white triangle in front, of which the point was elevated

rather higher than the spurious hoofs. The black mark upon the

lower lip, rather behind the middle of the sides, was strongly

noted--

ft. in.

Total length, exclusive of hair, at tip of tail 5 4-3/4

Ear, from the upper part of the head 0 6-1/2

Tail, from lateral base, exclusive of the hair 0 9-1/2

Hind foot, from tip of os calcus to tip of toe 1 6-1/4

Fore arm 1 11-7/8

Weight, in February, 115lbs.

This species, common as it is, was never figured, nor indeed

very well described, until the year 1819, when it appeared in

the valuable work of Messrs. Geoffroy and F. Cuvier (Hist.

Nat. des Mammiferes, 2d liv.) Its highest northern range is

Canada, in North America; and it is found as far south as the

river Orinoco, in South America.

This species is leanest in February and March, and in best

condition in October and November. The rutting season

commences in November, and continues about one month, ceasing

generally about the middle of December. During this season the

neck of the male becomes much dilated.

The fawn, towards autumn, loses its spots; and the hair

becomes grayish, and lengthens in the winter. In this state

the deer is said by the hunters to be _in the gray_. This coat

is shed in the latter part of May and beginning of June, and

is then substituted by the reddish coat. In this state the

animal is said to be _in the red_. Towards the last of August

the old bucks begin to change to the dark bluish colour; the

doe commences this change a week or two later. In this state

they are said to be _in the blue_. This coat gradually

lengthens until it comes again to the _gray_. The skin is said

to be toughest in the _red_, thickest in the _blue_, and

thinnest in the _gray_. The blue skin is most valuable.

The horns are cast in January. They lose the velvet the last of

September and beginning of October. About the middle of March,

Mr. Peale shot a large doe, in the matrix of which were three

perfectly formed young, of the size of a rabbit.--JAMES.

[135] This rifle regiment, under Colonel Talbot Chambers, was a

contingent of the troops assigned to the Yellowstone expedition.

See preface.--ED.

[136] Fort Osage was surrounded by a tract six miles square. It

was the only government trading factory west of the Mississippi.

The post was occupied at intervals until 1827, when it was

superseded by Fort Leavenworth and permanently abandoned. The

site was near that of the present town of Sibley, Jackson

County, which was named in honor of George C. Sibley (see volume

v of our series, note 36), who was (1818-25) government agent at

Fort Osage. The distance above Chariton River, by the government

survey of the Missouri, is a hundred and twenty miles. See our

volume v, note 31.--ED.

[137] A sketch of Boone as a Missouri pioneer will be found in

Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 16.--ED.

[138] From Fort Osage.

_Productus spinosus_, SAY.--Longitudinally and transversely

subequally striated, the transverse striæ somewhat larger than

the others; a few remote short spines, or acute tubercles, on

the surface, arising from the longitudinal striæ.

Breadth an inch and a half; the striæ are somewhat indistinct--

as in No. 5.

_Productus incurvus_, SAY.--Shell much compressed; hinge margin

nearly rectilinear; surface of the valves longitudinally

striated; convex valve longitudinally indented in the middle;

the beak prominent and incurved at tip; opposite valve with a

longitudinal prominence in the middle; the beak incurved into

the hinge beneath the other beak, and distant from it.

Width more than 2-2/5 inches. A few univalves also occurred, but

they were so extremely imperfect that their genera could not be

made out.

A dark-coloured carbonate of lime, containing small Terebratulæ

like the T. ovata of Sowerby, but less than half as long.

No. 1. a mass of carbonate of lime, containing segments of

encrinites in small ossicula.

6. A Caryophylla of a single star, about four inches long, of an

irregularly transversely undulated surface, imperfect at each

end, but seems to have been attached at base. Near the base it

is bent at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Some small and young specimens of the Terebratula, like T.

subundata of Sowerby.

Miliolites centralis. SAY.

12. Astrea. A species of very minute alveoles. From the state

of the petrifaction no radii are perceptible, so that the

genus is not determinable.

Saltworks near Arrow Rock. Columnar segments of the Encrinus.

Inferior portion of the head of A. Pentramea. SAY.

Segments of the column of an oval encrinus, much narrower in

the middle than the oval vertebra of an encrinite represented

by Parkinson, Vol. 2. pl. 13. f. 40.--resembling those of the

genus _Platycrinites_ of Miller.--JAMES.

{100} CHAPTER VI

Mouth of the Konzas--Arrival at Wolf River--Journey by land

from Fort Osage to the village of the Konzas.

Wishing to extend our examinations between Fort Osage and the

Konzas river, also between that river and the Platte, a party was

detached from the steam-boat, with instructions to cross the

Konzas at the Konza village, thence to traverse the country by the

nearest route to the Platte, and to descend that river to the

Missouri. The party consisted of Mr. Say, to whom the command was

entrusted, Messrs. Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, Cadet Swift, Mr. J.

Dougherty, and five soldiers. They were furnished with three

pack-horses, and a supply of provisions for ten days. Thus

organized and equipped, they commenced their march on the

afternoon of August 6th, accompanied by Major Biddle and his

servant.

After their departure, the steam-boat was delayed a few days at

Fort Osage. On the ninth, a part of the troops destined for the

Missouri service arrived in keel-boats. Colonel Chambers, with the

principal part of his regiment, were still at Fort Osage, awaiting

the arrival of supplies of provisions now daily expected.

On the following day we resumed our journey, and were accompanied

about ten miles by Mr. Sibley, agent of Indian affairs, and his

lady, to whom the gentlemen of the party were indebted for

numerous hospitable attentions during their stay at Fort Osage;

also by Captain Bissel, and Lieutenant Pentland,[139] of the rifle

regiment, who returned in a skiff. Our progress was much impeded

by shoals and rapids in the {101} river, but we succeeded in

passing these without warping, and anchored at sunset, having

ascended eighteen miles.

Between Fort Osage and the mouth of the Konzas river, a distance

of about fifty-two miles, are many rapid places in the Missouri.

We were able to ascend all these, except one, without towing. It

was with some difficulty we supplied our furnace with wood of a

suitable quality. The forests of the Missouri, though limited in

extent, are deep and shady, and though the atmosphere is

perceptibly less humid than in the forests of the Mississippi,

fallen trees, whose wood is soft and porous like that of the

linden and cotton tree, absorb much moisture from the ground. It

was only when we were so fortunate as to find a dry mulberry, ash,

or cotton-wood still standing, that we could procure fuel well

adapted to our purpose. Much time was of necessity expended in

cutting and bringing on board our supplies of this article, and

the additional delay occasioned by the numerous obstacles to the

easy navigation of the river, made our ascent somewhat tedious.

The mouth of the Konzas river was so filled with mud, deposited by

the late flood in the Missouri, as scarcely to admit the passage

of our boat, though with some difficulty we ascended that river

about a mile, and then returning dropped anchor opposite its

mouth. The spring freshets subside in the Konzas, the Osage, and

all those tributaries that do not derive their sources from the

Rocky Mountains, before the Missouri reaches its greatest fulness;

consequently the waters of the latter river, charged with mud,

flow into the mouths of its tributaries, and there becoming nearly

stagnant, deposit an extensive accumulation of mud and slime. The

Konzas river has a considerable resemblance to the Missouri; but

its current is more moderate, and the water less turbid, except at

times of high floods. Its valley, like that of the Missouri, has a

deep and fertile soil, bearing similar {102} forests of

cotton-wood, sycamore, &c., interspersed with meadows; but, in

ascending, trees become more and more scattered, and at length

disappear almost entirely, the country, at its sources, being one

immense prairie.[140]

We sailed from the mouth of the Konzas on the 13th of August.

Numerous sand-bars occur in the Missouri above that point, and

these occasioned us some delay. The water having fallen several

feet, we had less velocity of current to contend against, but

found it more necessary to keep in the channel, and could not so

often take advantage of the eddy currents below the points and

along the shore.

A party of white hunters were encamped on the Missouri, not far

above the Konzas. In the rudeness of their deportment and dress,

they appeared to us to surpass the savages themselves. They are

usually the most abandoned and worthless among the whites who

adopt the life of wandering hunters: frequently they are men whose

crimes have excluded them from society.

Eighteen miles above the Konzas river, and five above the Little

Platte, is a large island, which, from its rhombic form, has

received the name of Diamond island. The principal channel is on

the north side. It is difficult to pass, being much obstructed by

sand-bars. Four miles above this is a small group, called the

Three Islands; and two miles further another cluster, known as the

Four Islands, and by the French as the Isles des Parcs, or Field

Islands. At each of these places, as in the neighbourhood of

islands generally, the navigation is difficult.[141]

The site of an old village of the Konzas, and the remains of a

fortification erected by the French, were pointed out a few miles

below Isle au Vache. This island, which lies about one hundred

miles above Fort Osage, was the wintering post of Capt. Martin's

detachment, destined to proceed in advance of the troops ordered

to the Missouri. Captain Martin, {103} with three companies of the

rifle regiment, left Bellefontain in September 1818, and arrived

at Isle au Vache in October, with the expectation of resuming his

march as early in the following spring as the weather would

permit. But not having received the necessary supplies of

provisions as anticipated, they had been compelled to remain till

the time of our arrival, subsisting themselves principally by

hunting. Fortunately this part of the country afforded so much

game, that a competent supply was easily obtained. Between two and

three thousand deer, beside great numbers of bears, turkies, &c.,

had been taken. The arrival of the boats, laden with provisions,

now furnished them the means of continuing their ascent, and they

had the prospect of departing within a few days.[142]

Previous to our departure from Fort Osage, Major O'Fallon, the

Indian agent who accompanied us, had sent a messenger across the

country by land to the Konzas nation of Indians, residing on the

Konzas river, summoning their chiefs to a council, to be held at

Isle au Vache, on the arrival of the Western Engineer.[143]

Agreeably to the message sent by an interpreter, the Indians had

been expected on the 18th, but did not arrive until the 23d of

August, having been absent, when the messenger reached their

village, on a hunting excursion. As soon as they received the

invitation, they repaired with all convenient speed to the

appointed place, having sent runners before, to apprise us of

their approach.

The interpreter, who returned with them, brought intelligence of

the safe arrival of Mr. Say and his party, and of their kind

reception at the Konza village. We were sorry to learn that Mr.

Say had been in ill health, and had not entirely recovered.

On the 24th, the chiefs and principal men of the Konzas, to the

number of one hundred and fifty, assembled under an arbour

prepared for their reception. The Indian agent addressed them in a

speech {104} adapted to the occasion, setting forth the causes of

complaint which they had given by their repeated insults and

depredations upon the whites, giving them notice of the approach

of a military force, of sufficient strength to chastise their

insolence, and advising them to seize the present opportunity of

averting the vengeance they deserved by proper concessions, and by

their future good behaviour to conciliate those, whose friendship

they would have so much occasion to desire.

The replies of the chiefs were simple and short, expressive of

their conviction of the justice of the complaints made against

them, and of their acquiescence in the terms of reconciliation

proposed by the agent. There were present at this council one

hundred and sixty-one Konzas, including chiefs and warriors, and

thirteen Osages. The most distinguished men were Na-he-da-ba, or

_Long Neck_, one of the principal chiefs. Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga,

_Little Chief_, second in rank. Shon-ga-ne-ga, who had been one of

the principal chiefs, but had resigned his authority in favour of

Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga. Wa-ha-che-ra, _Big Knife_, a partizan or

leader of war parties. Wom-pa-wa-ra, _He who scares all men_, more

commonly known to the whites as Plume Blanche, or White Plume, a

man rising rapidly in importance, and apparently destined to

become the leader of the nation.[144] In addition to the Indians,

the officers of the garrison and a few gentlemen were present at

the council. The ceremonies were commenced by a discharge of

ordnance from the steamboat; the flags were hoisted in their

appropriate places, a council flag being placed near the chair

occupied by the agent. The Indians appeared gratified at the

displays made on the occasion, but their attention was more

particularly aroused by the exhibition of a few rockets and

shells, fired for their entertainment. At our departure, which, on

account of the Indians, was delayed until the 25th of August, many

{105} of them were present, and manifested some surprise at

witnessing the operations of the steam-boat.[145]

It was thought advisable to make some addition to our force at

Isle au Vache, as we should soon be in advance of the troops on

the Missouri, and might be exposed to insults and depredations,

from some of the numerous tribes of Indians. Accordingly, on

application to Colonel Morgan, a boat and fifteen men, under the

command of Lieutenant Fields, were detailed for this duty, and

directed to regulate their movements agreeably to the orders of

the commanding officer of the exploring expedition.[146] These men

were furnished with provisions for sixty days, and having

embarked on board a keel-boat, called the General Smith, they

sailed in company with the Western Engineer. A favourable wind

springing up, we proceeded in the course of the day about

twenty-three miles, and encamped at night near the entrance of a

small stream, called Independence Creek. A little above, and on

the south side of the river, is the site of an old Konza town,

formerly called the village of the Twenty-four.[147] Above Cow

Island the Missouri is more serpentine in direction than below,

and the difficulties of the navigation we found by no means

diminished as we ascended. The bed of the river in many places is

broad, and the water distributed into small channels separated by

sand-bars. About fifty miles above Cow Island we passed a spot

that had lately been occupied as a hunting camp by Captain Martin,

who had been here to procure the requisite provisions for the

subsistence of his party.

At the Yellow Banks we found the bluffs elevated about one hundred

and fifty feet above the surface of the valley.[148] Barometric

observations, several times repeated, gave nearly the same result

at some points below. One hundred and fifty feet may, therefore,

be assumed as the medium depth of the immediate valley of the

Missouri; its aggregate width, for the {106} first five hundred

miles above the Mississippi, may be estimated at about three

miles. The corresponding appearances in the strata of the opposite

sides of this valley, as well as its entire form and character,

indicate it to have been formed by the river. But far more than

that vast body of soil and of rocky strata, which formerly filled

the space now occupied by the immediate valley of the river, has

been removed by the Missouri. From the summit of the bluffs there

is a sloping ascent towards the interior of the country; and it is

probable the aggregate elevation of the great plains is not less

than three hundred feet above the surface of the river. If we

admit that this great valley, with its numerous ramifications, has

resulted from the operation of currents, wearing down and

transporting to the ocean the solid materials of the earth's

surface, it would appear necessary still farther to acknowledge

that this channel was once much deeper than at present, for we

usually meet with thick alluvial depositions covering the rocks

that line the bottom of the Missouri valley. The manifest tendency

of the operation of the Mississippi, at this time, upon its

valley, is to fill up rather than to excavate; but it may be

doubted whether this is equally, or even to any degree, the case

with the Missouri. The aggregate mass of alluvion within the

valley of the Missouri is, undoubtedly, moving downwards, with

considerable rapidity; for the quantity of earthy matter carried

into the Mississippi is, at all times, very great. In their

descent the alluvial substances are alternately deposited and

swept away, as by the variations in the direction of the current

any particular point is, from time to time, either exposed to, or

sheltered from, the action of the stream.

About eighty-seven miles above Cow Island is the mouth of the

Nodowa, a river of some importance, being about seventy yards

wide, and navigable to some distance. It is not usually seen in

passing, being {107} concealed by the island called the Great

Nodowa, which is about five miles long, and covered with heavy

forests. The lands on the Nodowa are of an excellent quality.[149]

On the 1st of September, we were under the necessity of remaining

encamped near the mouth of Wolf river,[150] that some repairs

might be made to the steam engine. Here we sent out some persons

to hunt, who after a short time returned, having taken a deer, a

turkey, and three swarms of bees, which afforded us about half a

barrel of honey. On the trees which margin the river, we

frequently observed a fine species of squirrel, which possesses

all the graceful activity of the common gray squirrel, as it leaps

from bough to bough.[151] After our machinery was adjusted, we

resumed our ascent, and had proceeded a short distance, when we

were hailed from shore by Mr. Dougherty, who had accompanied Mr.

Say's party across the country. We were not a little surprised at

this unexpected meeting, and were apprehensive some disaster had

befallen the detachment.

Mr. Dougherty being received on board, informed us that Mr. Peale,

Mr. Swift, Mr. Seymour, Chaboneau the Indian interpreter,[152] and

one of the soldiers, were at a little distance in the rear, having

accompanied him across the country, from Cow Island, where they

had arrived five days after our departure. Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup

had been left sick at Cow Island. We encamped immediately, to give

those who were near an opportunity of joining us. It will now be

necessary to return to the time of Mr. Say's departure from Fort

Osage, and briefly to trace the progress of his detachment to the

place where a rencontre with a war-party of Pawnees frustrated

their design, and made it necessary for them to rejoin the

steam-boat.

Mr. Say's detachment, consisting of twelve men and a boy,

furnished with three pack-horses for the {108} transportation of

baggage, departed from Fort Osage on the evening of August 6th.

Their route lay westward across the woodless plains about the

sources of the Hay Cabin, Blue Water, and Warreruza Creek. The

cliffs along the Blue Water are naked perpendicular rocks. In the

vallies numerous Indian encampments occurred, which appeared not

long since to have been occupied. These were most frequently seen

at the points, where the streams making almost a complete circuit,

and nearly enclosing a small tract of ground, afforded an

important protection against the approach of an enemy. The

prairies about the head waters of the Warreruza abound in game.

Here ravens were first seen by the party, and numbers of large

banded rattlesnakes were killed. The blowing flies swarmed in

inconceivable numbers, attacking not only the provision of the

party, but depositing their eggs upon the blankets, clothing, and

even on the furniture of the horses. On the 11th of August they

arrived at some elevated ridges, from which they overlooked an

extensive country, and could trace the whole course of the

Wahrengeho, or Full Creek, diverging slightly from the Konzas, and

could readily perceive timber upon several of its head branches.

The lands between the head waters of Full Creek and the Konzas are

not so good as those about the sources of the Warreruza, and

produce less timber. The settlement of this region will be much

retarded on account of the want of trees, these being confined to

the margins of the watercourses, while tracts of valuable soil, of

many miles in extent, have not a single tree or bush upon them.

The soil is, however, well adapted to the culture of some of our

most valuable forest trees. The sugar-maple, and several of the

most important species of carya, the oaks, the tulip-tree, and the

linden, would unquestionably succeed.[153]

In consequence of the excessive heat of the weather, the great

fatigues of the party, and their constant {109} exposure in the

open plains, the health of several of them began to be impaired.

The high and coarse grasses, which now covered the plains, greatly

impeded their progress, and very rapidly destroyed their clothing

and mockasins. Their journey was, therefore, slow and laborious.

On the night of the 13th they encamped on the bank of the Konzas,

having travelled some distance parallel to the course of that

river. The next day several of the party, already much debilitated,

began to be afflicted with dysentery; some accidents also occurred

to retard their progress, and on that and the following day they

advanced only two miles. On the 16th they marched about fifteen

miles, and encamped on the bank of the Konzas. Being now in doubt

as to the situation of the Konza village, and the illness of some

of the party continuing, they determined to remain encamped, while

some persons should be sent out to reconnoitre the country, and

discover, if possible, whether that part of the river at which

they had arrived, was above or below the village they designed

to visit.[154] The Konzas river, in this part, bears the closest

resemblance to the Missouri, both in the turbulence and rapidity of

its current, and the aspect of the country along its banks; it is,

however, so shoal as at almost any point to admit of being forded

without difficulty.

Willow islands, moving sand-bars, and _falling-in_ banks, are as

frequent as in the Missouri. The line of forest which skirts the

banks, including the bed of the river, is about half a mile wide,

but not entirely uninterrupted. The course of the river is

remarkably serpentine, forming woodland points alternately on both

sides.

After crossing and recrossing the river, and extending their

search in every direction, they had the satisfaction at last to

fall in with a beaten path leading up the river, and which their

guide and interpreter was confident would conduct them to the

Konza village.

{110} On the morning of the 19th, they passed across a wide and

fertile prairie to the Vermillion, a stream which enters the

Konzas from the north-west. It is four feet deep, and about twenty

yards wide.[155] Here they halted in the middle of the day, and

dined on the flesh of a black wolf, the only game they were able

to procure.

About Vermillion Creek are some open forests of oak, not extending

far on either side. The trees are from fifteen to twenty-five feet

high, and from one foot to eighteen inches in diameter, standing

at a considerable distance from each other.

On the day following, the Konza village was descried at a

distance. The detachment immediately halted to arrange their

dress, and inspect their firearms. This was thought the more

necessary, as no party of whites had visited the village since a

number of the Konzas had received a whipping at Isle au Vache, and

it was a matter of doubt, whether the party would meet a friendly

reception.

As they approached the village, they perceived the tops of the

lodges red with the crowds of natives; the chiefs and warriors

came rushing out on horseback, painted and decorated, and followed

by great numbers on foot. Mr. Say and his party were received

with the utmost cordiality, and conducted into the village by the

chiefs, who went before and on each side, to protect them from the

encroachments of the crowd. On entering the village the crowd

readily gave way before the party, but followed them into the

lodge assigned to them, and completely and most densely filled the

spacious apartment, with the exception only of a small space

opposite to the entrance, where the party seated themselves on the

beds, still protected from the pressure of the crowd by the

chiefs, who took their seats on the ground immediately before

them. After the ceremony of smoking with the latter, the object

which the party had in view in passing through their territories

was explained to them, and {111} seemed to be perfectly

satisfactory. At the lodge of the principal chief they were

regaled with jerked bison meat and boiled corn, and were

afterwards invited to six feasts in immediate succession.

Chaboneau and the old Frenchman, who had been despatched from Fort

Osage, to summon the Konzas to meet the agent at Isle au Vache,

had arrived some days previous; but the nation being at that time

absent on a hunting excursion, the interpreters, after reaching

the village, had proceeded immediately into the plains in pursuit

of them. At the time of the arrival of our detachment, the village

was in confusion, the hunters having lately returned, and being

then engaged in preparations for the journey to Isle au Vache. Two

runners were despatched to give notice to Major O'Fallon, that his

summons had been received; and at the same time the chiefs and

principal warriors departed for the place appointed. Before his

departure, the principal chief was careful to appoint a fit person

to attend Mr. Say's party, and arrangements were made to promote

their comfort and convenience, while they should remain at the

village.

Many reports had been circulated among the Konzas respecting the

invitation to council their chiefs had received. They were

conscious of having recently offended, by firing on Major

O'Fallon, and by insulting and plundering several soldiers of

Captain Martin's command. For these offences they had been in some

measure punished at the time, Major O'Fallon having returned their

fire from his boat, and not entirely without effect, as was

supposed; several also had been flogged by the orders of Captain

Martin; yet they did not consider themselves secure from the

vengeance of the whites. Many believed that at the time of the

anticipated council, barrels of gunpowder were to be placed in the

earth to destroy them at once. The two runners, who had been

despatched, quarrelled before they had gone far; one saying, all

{112} the things that had been told them by the interpreters were

lies, for which assertion he was struck to the ground by his

companion. In this situation they were found by the advancing

chiefs. Finally, a dispute happened between the chiefs themselves

respecting rank, in consequence of which ten or twelve of them

returned to the village.

Mr. Say, who spent some time among the Konzas, gives, in his

notes, the following account of that nation:

"The approach to the village is over a fine level prairie of

considerable extent; passing which, you ascend an abrupt bank

of the height of ten feet to a second level, on which the

village is situate in the distance, within about one-fourth of

a mile of the river. It consists of about a hundred and twenty

lodges, placed as closely together as convenient, and

destitute of any regularity of arrangement. The ground area

of each lodge is circular, and is excavated to the depth of

from one to three feet, and the general form of the exterior

may be denominated hemispheric.

"The lodge in which we reside is larger than any other in the

town, and being that of a grand chief, it serves as a

council-house for the nation. The roof is supported by two

series of pillars, or rough vertical posts, forked at top for

the reception of the transverse connecting pieces of each

series; twelve of these pillars form the outer series, placed

in a circle; and eight longer ones the inner series, also

describing a circle; the outer wall, of rude frame-work,

placed at a proper distance from the exterior series of

pillars, is five or six feet high. Poles, as thick as the leg

at base, rest with their butts upon the wall, extending on the

cross-pieces, which are upheld by the pillars of the two

series, and are of sufficient length to reach nearly to the

summit. These poles are very numerous, and, agreeably to the

position which we have indicated, they are placed all round in

a radiating {113} manner, and support the roof like rafters.

Across these are laid long and slender sticks or twigs,

attached parallel to each other by means of bark cord; these

are covered by mats made of long grass, or reeds, or with the

bark of trees; the whole is then covered completely over with

earth, which, near the ground, is banked up to the eaves. A

hole is permitted to remain in the middle of the roof to give

exit to the smoke. Around the walls of the interior, a

continuous series of mats are suspended; these are of neat

workmanship, composed of a soft reed united by bark cord, in

straight or undulated lines, between which lines of black

paint sometimes occur. The bedsteads are elevated to the

height of a common seat from the ground, and are about six

feet wide; they extend in an uninterrupted line around

three-fourths of the circumference of the apartment, and are

formed in the simplest manner of numerous sticks, or slender

pieces of wood resting at their ends on cross pieces, which

are supported by short notched or forked posts, driven into

the ground; bison-skins supply them with a comfortable

bedding. Several medicine or mystic bags are carefully

attached to the mats of the wall; these are cylindrical, and

neatly bound up; several reeds are usually placed upon them,

and a human scalp serves for their fringe and tassels. Of

their contents we know nothing.

"The fire-place is a simple shallow cavity, in the centre of

the apartment, with an upright and a projecting arm for the

support of the culinary apparatus. The latter is very simple

in kind, and limited in quantity, consisting of a brass

kettle, an iron pot, and wooden bowls and spoons; each person,

male as well as female, carries a large knife in the girdle of

the breech cloth behind, which is used at their meals, and

sometimes for self-defence. During our stay with these Indians

they ate four or five times each day, invariably supplying us

with the best pieces, or choice {114} parts, before they

attempted to taste the food themselves.

"They commonly placed before us a sort of soup, composed of

maize of the present season, of that description which, having

undergone a certain preparation, is appropriately named sweet

corn, boiled in water, and enriched with a few slices of bison

meat, grease, and some beans, and to suit it to our palates,

it was generally seasoned with rock salt, which is procured

near the Arkansa river.

"This mixture constituted an agreeable food; it was served up

to us in large wooden bowls, which were placed on bison robes

or mats, on the ground; as many of us as could conveniently

eat from one bowl sat round it, each in as easy a position as

he could contrive, and in common we partook of its contents by

means of large spoons made of bison horn. We were sometimes

supplied with uncooked dried meat of the bison, also a very

agreeable food, and to our taste and reminiscence, far

preferable to the flesh of the domestic ox. Another very

acceptable dish was called _leyed corn_; this is maize of the

preceding season _shelled_ from the cob, and first boiled for

a short time in a ley of wood-ashes until the hard skin, which

invests the grains, is separated from them; the whole is then

poured into a basket, which is repeatedly dipped into clean

water, until the ley and skins are removed; the remainder is

then boiled in water until so soft as to be edible. They also

make much use of maize roasted on the cob, of boiled pumpkins,

of musk-melons, and water-melons, but the latter are generally

pulled from the vine before they are completely ripe.

"Ca-ega-wa-tan-ninga, or the Fool Chief, is the hereditary

principal chief, but he possesses nothing like monarchical

authority, maintaining his distinction only by his bravery and

good conduct. There are ten or twelve inferior chieftains, or

persons who aspire to such dignity, but these do not appear to

{115} command any great respect from the people. Civil as well

as military distinction arises from bravery or generosity.

Controversies are decided amongst themselves; they do not

appeal to their chief, excepting for counsel. They will not

marry any of their kindred, however remote. The females,

before marriage, labour in the fields, and serve their

parents, carry wood and water, and attend to the culinary

duties; when the eldest daughter marries, she commands the

lodge, the mother, and all the sisters; the latter are to be

also the wives of the same individual. When a young man wishes

to marry a particular female, his father gives a feast to a

few persons, generally old men, and acquaints them with his

design; they repair to the girl, who generally feigns an

unwillingness to marry, and urges such reasons as her poverty,

youth, &c.--the old men are often obliged to return six or

seven times before they can effect their object. When her

consent is obtained, the parents of the young man take two or

three blankets and some meat to the parents of the female that

they may feast, and immediately return to their lodge. The

parents put on the meat to cook, and place the same quantity

of meat and merchandize on two horses, and dress their

daughter in the best garments they can afford; she mounts one

of the horses, and leads the other, and is preceded by a crier

announcing, with a loud voice, the marriage of the young

couple, naming them, to the people; in this way she goes to

the habitation of her husband, whose parents take from her

every thing she brings, strip her entirely naked, dress her

again in clothes as good as she brought, furnish her with two

other horses, with meat and merchandize, and she returns with

her crier to her parents. These two horses she retains as her

own, together with all the articles she brings back with her.

Her parents then make a feast, to which they invite the

husband, his parents and friends; the young couple are seated

together, and {116} all then partake of the good cheer, after

which the father of the girl makes a harangue, in which he

informs the young man that he must now assume the command of

the lodge, and of every thing belonging to him and his

daughter. All the merchandize which the bride returned with,

is distributed in presents from herself to the kindred of her

husband in their first visit. The husband then invites the

relatives of his wife to a feast. Whatever peltries the father

possesses are at the disposal of the son to trade with on his

own account; and in every respect the parents, in many

instances, become subservient to the young man.

"After the death of the husband the widow scarifies herself,

rubs her person with clay, and becomes negligent of her dress,

until the expiration of a year, when the eldest brother of the

deceased takes her to wife without any ceremony, considers her

children as his own, and takes her and them to his house; if

the deceased left no brother, she marries whom she pleases.

They have, in some instances, four or five wives; but these

are mostly sisters; if they marry into two families the wives

do not harmonize well together, and give the husband much

inquietude; there is, however, no restriction in this respect,

except in the prudence of the husband. The grandfather and

grandmother are very fond of their grandchildren, but these

have very little respect for them. The female children respect

and obey their parents; but the males are very disobedient,

and the more obstinate they are, and the less readily they

comply with the commands of their parents, the more the latter

seem to be pleased, saying, 'He will be a brave man, a great

warrior; he will not be controlled.'

"The attachment of fraternity is as strong, if not stronger,

than with us. The niece has great deference for the uncle. The

female calls her mother's sister _mother_, and her mother's

brother _uncle_. The male calls his father's brother _father_,

his father's sister [106] _aunt_, his mother's sister

_mother_, and his mother's brother _uncle_. Thirteen children

have occurred in one family. A woman had three children at a

birth; all lived.

"The young men are generally coupled out as friends; the tie

is very permanent, and continues often throughout life.

"They bear sickness and pain with great fortitude, seldom

uttering a complaint; bystanders sympathize with them, and try

every means to relieve them. Insanity is unknown; the blind

are taken care of by their friends and the nation generally,

and are well dressed and fed. Drunkenness is rare, and is much

ridiculed; a drunken man is said to be bereft of his reason,

and is avoided. As to the origin of the nation, their belief

is, that the Master of life formed a man, and placed him on

the earth; he was solitary, and cried to the Master of life

for a companion, who sent him down a woman; from the union of

these two proceeded a son and daughter, who were married, and

built themselves a lodge distinct from that of their parents;

all the nations proceeded from them, excepting the whites,

whose origin they pretend not to know. When a man is killed in

battle, the thunder is supposed to take him up, they do not

know where. In going to battle each man traces an imaginary

figure of the thunder on the soil; and he who represents it

incorrectly is killed by the thunder. A person saw this

thunder one day on the ground, with a beautiful mockasin on

each side of it; having much need of a pair, he took them and

went his way; but on his return, by the same spot, the thunder

took him off, and he has not been since heard of. They seem to

have vague notions of the future state. They think that a

brave warrior, or good hunter, will walk in a good path; but a

bad man, or coward, will find a bad path. Thinking the

deceased has far to travel, they bury with his body mockasins,

some articles of food, &c. {118} to support him on the

journey. Many persons, they believe, have become reanimated,

who had been, during their apparent death, in strange

villages; but as the inhabitants used them ill, they returned.

They say they have never seen the Master of life, and

therefore cannot pretend to personify him; but they have often

heard him speak in the thunder; they wear often a shell which

is in honour, or in representation of him, but they do not

pretend that it resembles him, or has any thing in common with

his form, organization, or dimensions.

"This nation having been at profound peace with the Osages,

since the year 1806,[156] have intermarried freely with them,

so that in stature, features, and customs, they are more and

more closely approaching that people. They are large and

symmetrically well formed, with the usual high cheek bones,

the nose more or less aquiline, colour reddish coppery, the

hair black and straight. Their women are small and homely,

with broad faces. We saw but a single squaw in the village who

had any pretensions to beauty; she was recently married to an

enterprizing warrior, who invited us to a feast, apparently in

order to exhibit his prize to us. The ordinary dress of the

men is a breech cloth of blue or red cloth, secured in its

place by a girdle; a pair of leggings, made of dressed

deer-skin, concealing the leg, excepting a small portion of

the upper part of the thigh; a pair of mockasins made of

dressed deer, elk, or bison-skin, not ornamented; and a

blanket to cover the upper part of the body, often thrown over

one arm in hot weather, leaving that part naked; or it is even

entirely thrown aside. The outer cartilage of the ear is cut

through in three places, and upon the rims, thus separated,

various ornaments are suspended, such as wampum, string beads,

silver or tin trinkets, &c. The hair of most of their chiefs

and warriors is scrupulously removed from the head; being

careful, however, to leave enough, as in honour {119} they are

bound to do, to supply their enemy with a scalp, in case they

should be vanquished. This residuum consists of a portion on

the back of the head, of about the breadth of the hand,

rounded at its upper termination near the top of the head, the

sides rectilinear, and nearly parallel, though slightly

approaching each other towards the origin of the neck, where

it abruptly terminates; on the exterior margin, the hair is

somewhat longer and erect; this strip of hair is variously

decorated; it is sometimes coloured on the margin with

vermilion, sometimes a tail feather of the war eagle is

attached transversely with respect to the head; this feather

is white at base, and black at tip; but the principal

ornament, which appears to be worn by some of their chief

warriors, and which is, at the same time, by far the most

handsome, is the tail of the common deer; this is attached by

the base near to the top of the patch of hair, the back of it

resting on the hair, and the tip secured near the termination

of the patch; the bristly hair of the tail is dyed red by a

beautiful permanent colour, and parted longitudinally in the

middle by a broad silver plate, which is attached at top, and

suffered to hang loose. Many of them are tattooed on different

parts of the body. The young boys are entirely naked, with

the exception of a girdle, generally of cloth, round their

protruding abdomen. This part of the body in the children of

this nation is remarkably prominent; it is more particularly

so when they are very young, but gradually subsides as they

advance in age. In hot weather the men, whilst in the village,

generally use fans, with which they cool themselves, when in

the shade, and protect their heads from the sun whilst walking

out; they are made of the wing or tail of the turkey. The

women rarely use them. The dress of the female is composed of

a pair of mockasins, leggings of blue or red cloth, with a

broad projecting border on the outside, and covering the leg

to the knee, or a {120} little above; many, however, and

perhaps almost a majority of them, do not in common wear this

part of the dress. Around the waist, secured by a belt or

cestus, is wrapped a piece of blue cloth, the sides of which

meet, or come nearly in contact on the outside of the right

thigh, and the whole extends downward as far as the knee, or

to the mid-leg; around the left shoulder is a similar piece of

cloth, which is attached, by two of the corners, at the axilla

of the right arm, and extends downward as far as the waist.

This garment is often laid aside, when the body, from the

waist upward, is entirely exposed. Their hair is suffered to

grow long; it is parted longitudinally on the top of the head,

and flows over the shoulders, the line of separation being

coloured with vermilion. The females, like those of other

aborigines, cultivate the maize, beans, pumpkins, and

water-melons; gather and prepare the two former, when ripe,

and pack them away in skins, or in mats, for keeping; prepare

the flesh of the bison, by drying, for preservation; attend to

all the cooking; bring wood and water; and in other respects

manage the domestic concerns, and appear to have over them

absolute sway. These duties, as far as we could observe, they

not only willingly performed as a mere matter of duty, but

they exhibited in their deportment a degree of pride and

ambition to acquit themselves well; in this respect resembling

a good housewife amongst the civilized fair. Many of them are

tattooed.

"Both sexes of all ages bathe frequently, and enter the water

indiscriminately. The infant is washed in cold water soon

after its birth, and the ablution is frequently repeated; the

mother also bathes with the same fluid soon after delivery.

The infant is tied down to a board, after the manner of many

of the Indian tribes.

"The chastity of the young females is guarded by the mother

with the most scrupulous watchfulness, {121} and a violation

of it is a rare occurrence, as it renders the individual unfit

for the wife of a chief, a brave warrior, or good hunter. To

wed her daughter to one of these, each mother is solicitous;

as these qualifications offer the same attractions to the

Indian mother as family and fortune exhibit to the civilized

parent.

"The men carefully pluck from their chins, axilla of the arms,

eye-brows, &c. every hair of beard that presents itself: this

is done with a spiral wire, which, when used, is placed with

the side upon the part, and the ends are pressed towards each

other so as to close the spires upon the hairs, which can then

be readily drawn out; this instrument we observed to be an

article of dress of the chiefs, who departed to attend the

council at the Isle au Vache."

FOOTNOTES:

[139] For Bissel, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note

182.

Charles Pentland, of Pennsylvania, served during the War of

1812-15 as ensign and third lieutenant in the 4th Rifles.

Retained in 1815, he was in 1821 transferred to the 6th

Infantry, in which, two years later, he became captain. He was

dismissed in 1826.--ED.

[140] The Kansas River and its tributaries drain most of the

state of the same name. It heads in the prairies of eastern

Colorado, and joins the Missouri at the point where the latter

enters the State of Missouri. It is still sometimes called the

Kaw. The name appears in various forms on early French maps--as

Cans, Rivière des Kancés, Rivière des Quans, etc.--ED.

[141] The Little Platte (which the French called Petite Rivière

Platte, or Little Shallow River), rises in southern Iowa and

flows south to its confluence with the Missouri in Platte

County. Its mouth is now opposite Diamond Island, for the

channels of the two rivers have, in their shifting, been brought

together several miles above the old confluence. The abandoned

lower channel is still visible.

Diamond Island is near the Kansas side of the Missouri, on the

line between Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.

When Lewis and Clark passed this spot in 1804, the two smaller

islands of the group called Three Islands had but recently

appeared. They are opposite the mouth of Nine Mile Creek, five

or six miles below Leavenworth. The principal member of the

group is Spar Island.

The Four Islands are in front of Leavenworth, and one of the

largest has the same name as the city.--ED.

[142] Isle au Vache (Isle des Vaches, Isle de Vache, Buffalo

Island), now Cow Island, is on the line between Atchison and

Leavenworth counties.

Wyly Martin, a Tennesseean, had been captain in the 3d Rifle

regiment at the close of the War of 1812-15, and after an

honorable discharge in 1815, had been reinstated the same

year. He was transferred to the 6th Infantry in 1821, and

resigned two years later.

Lewis and Clark note the site of the Kansa village and French

fort. The former stood in a valley between two high elevations,

and the latter was on another elevation a mile in the rear. They

found few traces of the village, but there remained the general

outline of the fortifications and some ruins of chimneys. It was

near this spot that Fort Leavenworth was established, in 1827.

See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED.

[143] For the early history of the Kansa, see Bradbury's

_Travels_, in our volume v, note 37.--ED.

[144] White Plume became the chief of the tribe, and some

fifteen years later was still in power. Catlin, in _North

American Indians_ (London, 1866), ii, p. 23, described him as

urbane and hospitable, and of portly build.--ED.

[145] The surprise of the Indians will hardly be cause for

wonder, after reading the following description of the "Western

Engineer," which appeared in the St. Louis _Enquirer_, June 19,

1819, ten days after the expedition arrived at that place: "The

bow of the vessel exhibits the form of a huge serpent, black and

scaly, rising out of the water from under the boat, his head

as high as the deck, darted forward, his mouth open, vomiting

smoke, and apparently carrying the boat on his back. From under

the boat, at its stern issues a stream of foaming water, dashing

violently along. All the machinery is hid. . . . The boat is

ascending the rapid stream at the rate of three miles an hour.

Neither wind nor human hands are seen to help her; and to the

eye of ignorance the illusion is complete, that a monster of the

deep carries her on his back smoking with fatigue, and lashing

the waves with violent exertion."

A resident of Franklin, Missouri, thus described the boat and

the impression it made upon the savages: "In place of a

bowsprit, she has carved a great serpent, and as the steam

escapes out of its mouth, it runs out a long tongue, to the

perfect horror of all Indians that see her. They say, 'White

man bad man, keep a great spirit chained and build fire under

it to make it work a boat.'"--ED.

[146] Willoughby Morgan, a Virginian, served during the War

of 1812-15 as captain and major of infantry. In 1815 he was

retained in the rifle regiment as captain, with brevet of major,

becoming lieutenant-colonel in 1818. In 1821 he was transferred

to the infantry; he became colonel of the 1st Infantry in 1830,

and died in 1832.

"Lieutenant Fields" is probably Gabriel Field, whose army record

is given as follows in the registers: "Born in ——. Appointed

from Mo. 2nd Lieut. Rifles, 24 May, 1817; 1st Lieut., 15 April,

1818; transferred to 6th Infantry, 1 June, 1821; resigned 16

April, 1823."--ED.

[147] Independence Creek owes its name to Lewis and Clark, who

reached this point on July 4, 1804. Its mouth is on the line

between Atchison and Doniphan counties, Kansas. Lewis and Clark

named another small stream, fifteen miles below, Fourth of July

Creek. They also visited the site of the Indian village here

mentioned, and thought it must have been a large one, judging

from the remains.--ED.

[148] The color is due to the presence of yellow ochre.--ED.

[149] For data relative to the Nodaway River, see Bradbury's

_Travels_, in our volume v, note 5.--ED.

[150] The name of Wolf River or Creek (Rivière du Loup of early

French maps), is a translation of the Indian name. The stream

debouches four miles below the town of Iowa Point, in Doniphan

County, Kansas.--ED.

[151] _Sciurus macrurus._ SAY.--_Body_ above each side, mixed

gray and black; fur plumbeous, black at base, then pale

cinnamon, then black, then cinereous, with a long black tip;

_ears_ bright ferruginous behind, the colour extending to the

base of the fur, which, in its winter dress, is prominent beyond

the edge; within dull ferruginous, the fur slightly tipped with

black; _side of the head and orbits_ pale ferruginous, cheek

under the eye and ear dusky; _whiskers_ black, in about five

series, of which the four inferior ones are more distinct,

hairs a little flattened; _mouth_ margined with black; _teeth_

reddish yellow; _head_ beneath, _neck_ and _feet_ above pale

ferruginous; _belly_ paler; fur pale plumbeous at base; _palms_

black; _toes_, anterior ones four, the thumb tubercle not longer

than its lobe in the palm, and furnished with a broad flat

nail; posterior toes five; _tail_ beneath bright ferruginous,

the colour extending to the base of the fur, with a submarginal

black line; above mixed ferruginous and black; fur within pale

cinnamon, with the base and three bands black; tip ferruginous.

ft. in.

From nose to tip of tail (exclusive of the hair) 1 7-1/4

Tail, from base to tip (exclusive of the hair) 9-1/10

Ear, from head to tip 0-3/4

The most common species of squirrel on the banks of the

Missouri river. It is allied to _S. cinereus_, but cannot be

considered as a variety of that species; neither does it

approach any of the numerous varieties of the very variable

_S. capistratus_ of Bosc.